Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Saturday, January 19 2002  Volume 01 : Number 730




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 09:44:26 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

A well concealed fuel cut-off seems like the best way to me. It takes
time to find the switch and they don't like wasting time.

        Jim Berry
=======================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Darren Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>

> Search the archives.  The owner is from Ireland.  Has a super
> thief-proof "bonnet" lock (i.e. hood lock) as well as a "boot" lock
> (i.e. trunk lock).  I keep thinking I will get one on mine but I never
> do.  Seems silly with a $20k car sitting there and an economic lock will
> keep it safe.
>
> They are pros at installing things like car alarms, etc. and can get
> into a locked 3/S in something under 20 seconds and disable the stock
> alarm.  Maybe 45 seconds for an aftermarket alarm.


> From: MIHAI RAICU
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 11:59

> Hello everyone,
>
>
> I thought of two scenarios, however I am open to other
> alternatives.
>
> 1) Install a switch on the 12V (hot lead) wire to the fuel
> pump.  I would probably tap this wire in the trunk area.  One
> problem I think is going to be running a long wire up to the
> driver's area.  There is probably going to be a voltage
> drop.  I am curious if there are remote switches (i.e. put
> the switch in the trunk and remote activate it via radio band
> from the cockpit).




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 11:47:19 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

> 1) Install a switch on the 12V (hot lead) wire to the fuel
> pump.  I would probably tap this wire in the trunk area.  One
> problem I think is going to be running a long wire up to the
> driver's area.  There is probably going to be a voltage
> drop.  I am curious if there are remote switches (i.e. put
> the switch in the trunk and remote activate it via radio band
> from the cockpit).

You could instead put your switch on the line between the ECU and the fuel
pump relay.  That way you aren't switching the high-current wire directly.
Same effect, without having to run a lot of extra wire or use a heavy-duty
switch.

> 2) Install an on/off switch on the clutch wire.  This means
> that I open the circuit when I leave the car, so that if a
> thief wants to start it and he presses the clutch it's as if
> he didn't press it, unless he finds the switch.  The option
> of a radio switch seems apealing here also.

Yeah, you could do that too.  Hidden buttons usually work the best for those
sorts of things - maybe under your seat, or in the center compartment, or
under the dash or something.

> If the thief hotwires the car in either of these 2 scenarios,
> he would not be able to start the car, correct?

Right.

> Got to put it on a tow truck if you want it.

And unfortunately, that's exactly what they'll do if they really want it.  2
minutes and its gone.  Fuel cutoffs and the like will stop the amateur
theives though.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 12:47:42 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

I was close on the times.  Anyway, George Shaw is the name.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 12:38

Search the archives.  The owner is from Ireland.  Has a super
thief-proof "bonnet" lock (i.e. hood lock) as well as a "boot" lock
(i.e. trunk lock).  I keep thinking I will get one on mine but I never
do.  Seems silly with a $20k car sitting there and an economic lock will
keep it safe.

- -----Archived Message-----
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2000 09:37:35 +0100
From: "George Shaw" <george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Strut Covers, Wires, Remote Start

Clifford provides a way of fitting their remote start feature to a
manual. It involves a routine to be carried out prior to leaving the
car,
forcing the user to make the car safe i.e. placing it in neutral. If
this
sequence is not followed, the remote start will not work. I believe it
is simple to rig a relay for most remote start systems to provide the
same. My own companies system uses a hand-brake interlock and a gear
interlock to do
the same thing. Forward to me the details of the system you are looking
at
and I will see if I can produce a diagram for you.

I strongly suggest that if you use a remote start, that you also fit a
Hood (bonnet) lock as it is very easy to "pop" the hood from outside the
car (I can open any Stealth or 3KGT in 12 secs and silence the alarm in
2), open the doors via the exposed fuse box and enter the car and drive
off, takes about 45 secs.

A thief watching say in a car park over a few days will learn the
pattern for you remote starting the car, say 10 mins before you leave
the office, watch till the car starts and he is off in less than 60
secs, and the alarm (any alarm) can be bypassed from under the hood, the
immobiliser is already bypassed and the engine heated up.

An electronic hood lock costs about £85 (£30 fitting or DIY) is
completely automatic and can not be "got around" unless the car is in a
garage equipped with a ramp and a lot of time. (The system I fitted to
my 3KGT TT took 25 mins to fit and takes about 1h 30 mins to get around,
and we know what we are doing. I also fitted the same lock to the trunk
release). You can fit such a lock in around an hour or less, one bracket
to screw in place, three electrical connections to make and the bowden
cable to cut. If anyone wants details drop me a line.

eMail:                 george.shaw@btinternet.com
Fax/Voice Mail:  +44 (0) 87 0133 6126
Mobile:               +44 (0) 78 1162 5179
Home:                 +44 (0) 28 9062 8924
ICQ#:                          1741675



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 11:53:31 -0600
From: S J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

Here's a simple idea I have had, tell me what you think...

On our cars we have a 15 amp fuse down in the small fuse box by your left
foot labeled "Engine."  I've never seen this before on any car I've
owned. However, if this fuse is removed, the car will not start.  I
wonder how many of these theives carry an extra 15 amp fuse and know
where to look when it won't crank?  I would think they would split.

In the old days, we would just take the coil wire...

SJ

On Fri, 18 Jan 2002 09:44:26 -0800 "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com> writes:
> A well concealed fuel cut-off seems like the best way to me. It
> takes
> time to find the switch and they don't like wasting time.
>
>         Jim Berry
> =======================================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Darren Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>
>
> > Search the archives.  The owner is from Ireland.  Has a super
> > thief-proof "bonnet" lock (i.e. hood lock) as well as a "boot"
> lock
> > (i.e. trunk lock).  I keep thinking I will get one on mine but I
> never
> > do.  Seems silly with a $20k car sitting there and an economic
> lock will
> > keep it safe.
> >
> > They are pros at installing things like car alarms, etc. and can
> get
> > into a locked 3/S in something under 20 seconds and disable the
> stock
> > alarm.  Maybe 45 seconds for an aftermarket alarm.
>
>
> > From: MIHAI RAICU
> > Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 11:59
> > 
> > Hello everyone,
> >
> >
> > I thought of two scenarios, however I am open to other
> > alternatives.
> >
> > 1) Install a switch on the 12V (hot lead) wire to the fuel
> > pump.  I would probably tap this wire in the trunk area.  One
> > problem I think is going to be running a long wire up to the
> > driver's area.  There is probably going to be a voltage
> > drop.  I am curious if there are remote switches (i.e. put
> > the switch in the trunk and remote activate it via radio band
> > from the cockpit).
>
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:06:24 -0500
From: MIHAI RAICU <mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

Flash,

I knew of George Shaw and his hood bonnet.  I may have to
give him a call to inquire about current pricing for a hood
and trunk combo. 

However, my immediate concern is what can I do to disable my
car today?  Can you guys agree on what the safest/thief proof
circuit is?  Even if the thief hotwires the car, I don't want
it to start.  I understand half the battle is going to be
concealment of the switch.

Can I wire the switch to one of the radio butons from the
steering column?

or

Are there radio frequency activated switches on the market?

- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4




- ---- Original message ----
>Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 12:47:42 -0500
>From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com
>Subject: RE: Team3S: How to best make the car not start?
(thief proof) 
>To: <mraicu@wayne.edu>, <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>,
<george.shaw@btinternet.com>
>
>I was close on the times.  Anyway, George Shaw is the name.
>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:10:15 -0500
From: MIHAI RAICU <mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

Jim,

Do you think there will be a problem with voltage drop
running a ~10 foot wire from the trunk area to the driver
area?  I probably will need a larger than normal gauge wire. 
What size for this alternative?

- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4

- ---- Original message ----
>Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 09:44:26 -0800
>From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com
>Subject: Re: Team3S: How to best make the car not start?
(thief proof) 
>To: <dschilberg@pobox.com>, <mraicu@wayne.edu>,
<team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
>A well concealed fuel cut-off seems like the best way to me.
It takes
>time to find the switch and they don't like wasting time.
>
>        Jim Berry
>=======================================

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 12:10:09 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

> However, my immediate concern is what can I do to disable my
> car today?  Can you guys agree on what the safest/thief proof
> circuit is?  Even if the thief hotwires the car, I don't want
> it to start.  I understand half the battle is going to be
> concealment of the switch.

Fuel pump relay cutoff is pretty much a sure thing.  No fuel pressure = no
start.  There's usually a little residual pressure in the line, but not
enough to run the car for more than a few seconds at idle.

> Can I wire the switch to one of the radio butons from the
> steering column?

If I remember right from when I hacked my Sony headunit to use those
switches for various functions the switches are multiplexed into a single
signal so they aren't really separate switches once they leave the steering
wheel.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 12:17:58 -0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

> And unfortunately, that's exactly what they'll do if they really
> want it.  2
> minutes and its gone.  Fuel cutoffs and the like will stop the amateur
> theives though.
>

That's what really sucks.  Also, I'm not satisfied with just preventing the
theft, I want the thief punished.  Has anyone tried those Auto Tasers?
http://shopwynns.com/security/at-7.html

I think they stopped making them.  Anyone know why?

Any other MacGyver (http://www.macgyver.org/) like ideas?  Pepper spray?
Mace? Bullet to the head? (sorry, I just really hate thieves)  I think we
should do like that one country does and chop off your hand if you're caught
stealing.  I hear the theft rate is like non existent.  I suppose we could
at least institute a humane system and just put a cement or metal cast on
their hand for a few decades.

Christopher



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:21:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

- -----Original Message-----
From: "MIHAI RAICU" <mraicu@WAYNE.EDU>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 11:59
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief
proof)

> I want to make my car harder for thieves to steal, without
> spending money on a new alarm/car disabling system.

Well, assuming the amateurs are in a hurry and don't read our
archives, and assuming professionals are much smarter than we are
anyway in this endeaver and may have the option of towing ....

I have always thought a fuel pump circuit wire makes a good one to
install a switch on. The switch could be located in the rear
compartment and could be easily and secretly toggled when
removing/replacing items and not arouse suspicion. Could be useful
for long-term parking situations.

For the cabin, many folks hide a switch to the engine control relay.
This relay is under the carpet on the right side of the floor console
(to the right of the radio). It is easy to tap the wires and switches
can be hidden in a multitude of places. In addition to worrying about
a thief finding the switch, you should also be concerned with a
passenger messing with the switch (why do they think the power seat
adjustment is for them?) or with anything bumping the switch
accidentally.

Hidden switches or removed/unplugged wires under the hood could help
in long-term parking situations.

Few folks are familiar with airflow signal conditioners or similar
devices. Inappropriate settings for these will effectively prevent
the engine from starting or running well. Just be sure to memorize
the correct ones.

A "Denver Boot" would work too. :)

You could leave the exterior of the car trashed, like my car. What
kind of thief would want my beatup looking old TT?

Tinted windows reduce visibility into the car so maybe fewer
enticements for thieves that just want to steal stuff but not the
car.

Lastly, never leave information in the car that identifies you,
especially your residence. Keep the registration/insurance card in
your wallet/purse. Other records with ownership info can stay at
home. At least if they get your car, don't let them get to your home
also (they know you are not there, assuming the car is not in your
driveway).

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

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***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:24:59 -0500
From: MIHAI RAICU <mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

Matt,

So far people seem to lean towards a switch on the fuel pump
circuit somewhere.

I guess I can't use one of the steering column switches.

I have seen no comments on the clutch wire.  I wonder if the
car can still be hotwired with a switch on the chutch safety
mechanism.  Probably, otherwise someone would have said
something.

- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4

>From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com
>Subject: RE: Team3S: How to best make the car not start?
(thief proof) 
>Fuel pump relay cutoff is pretty much a sure thing.  No fuel
pressure = no
>start.  There's usually a little residual pressure in the
line, but not
>enough to run the car for more than a few seconds at idle.
>
>> Can I wire the switch to one of the radio butons from the
>> steering column?
>
>If I remember right from when I hacked my Sony headunit to
use those
>switches for various functions the switches are multiplexed
into a single
>signal so they aren't really separate switches once they
leave the steering
>wheel.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 12:27:20 -0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

>
> Are there radio frequency activated switches on the market?
>

Clifford makes a car alarm or has an accessory for their alarms that is a
wireless fuel cut device.  If a break-in is detected it transmits a wireless
signal to trip the relay.  So even if you disable the alarm, or smash the
brain unit.  The fuel system is still tripped.  You can also set your car up
so this relay is tripped whenever the car is turned off and you have to
enter a pin number every time you start your car.  Not a cheap solution, but
their systems are better than most car alarms.

I'm waiting for a company to make an affordable device that will call my
cell phone when the alarm goes off.  I've seen one website where a guy hacks
apart an old cell phone to auto dial his number when his alarm went off.
But it wasn't very elegant.  Anybody seen anything like this that's
affordable?  (Also, most car pagers only have a distance of a mile or two.
I'm looking for something with more range)

Later,
Christopher


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:42:35 -0800
From: "ek2mfg" <ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject: Team3S: thoughts on my rebuild needed

93 R/T NA 5sp DOHC 3.0l engine.....

1) forged pistons from ROSS -coated and drylubed
2) 100 shot direct port injection
3) shot peened rods
4) typical short block work...balanced and such
5) Unorthdox cam gears---what setting?
6) Reground cams---what specs?
7) sping kit with titanium retainers
8) port and polish internals to match

Now the question, Am I completely retarded for doing this? What am I
missing or should not do? I have asked several shops and to no avail
they have not gotten back to me after 3 days.......Dynamic won't
answer me....Some of these things still need to be bought so If your
a guru with parts shelf then close this sale.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:57:03 -0500
From: MIHAI RAICU <mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

Jeff,

>I have always thought a fuel pump circuit wire makes a good
one to
>install a switch on. The switch could be located in the rear
>compartment and could be easily and secretly toggled when
>removing/replacing items and not arouse suspicion.

Can I instal a long wire from the rear cargo area to the
driver's area without suffering significant voltage loss?

>
>For the cabin, many folks hide a switch to the engine
control relay.
>This relay is under the carpet on the right side of the
floor console
>(to the right of the radio). It is easy to tap the wires and
switches
>can be hidden in a multitude of places.

This control relay switch is a new alternative I did not
consider.  It's another possibility.

In addition to worrying about
>a thief finding the switch, you should also be concerned
with a
>passenger messing with the switch (why do they think the
power seat
>adjustment is for them?) or with anything bumping the switch
>accidentally.
>

You are right about these things.  That is why I intend to
pull the switch somewhere on the driver's side, to avoid
passanger/switch interactions and so I do not have to stretch
each day towards the switch to disclose it's location.

>Few folks are familiar with airflow signal conditioners or
similar
>devices. Inappropriate settings for these will effectively
prevent
>the engine from starting or running well. Just be sure to
memorize
>the correct ones.

The switch idea in the cockpit seems simpler to me.

>
>A "Denver Boot" would work too. :)
>
New idea that I havem't thought of, but practical only for
long term storage.  I need a solution to be practical for
every day use/long term storage.

>Tinted windows reduce visibility into the car so maybe fewer
>enticements for thieves that just want to steal stuff but
not the
>car.
True.  If they want to steal the radio/airbags and trash the
car, then the thieves can probably do that.  That is a few
thousands worth of damage.  However, I want to make it very
hard to take the entire car away.  They better have a tow
truck ready.
>
>Lastly, never leave information in the car that identifies
you,
>especially your residence. Keep the registration/insurance
card in
>your wallet/purse.
Other records with ownership info can stay at
>home. At least if they get your car, don't let them get to
your home
>also (they know you are not there, assuming the car is not
in your
>driveway).

I practice this already.


>Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
>

- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:00:40 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughts on my rebuild needed

> 93 R/T NA 5sp DOHC 3.0l engine.....
>
> 1) forged pistons from ROSS -coated and drylubed

What compression ratio will you choose?  You aren't going to want the
"standard" Ross twin-turbo motor pistons.  Compression will be too low for a
naturally aspirated car.

> 2) 100 shot direct port injection

Wet system, I presume?

> 3) shot peened rods

Yeah...

> 4) typical short block work...balanced and such

Yup...

> 5) Unorthdox cam gears---what setting?

You need to strap it on a dyno to figure that out.

> 6) Reground cams---what specs?

I dunno...

> 7) sping kit with titanium retainers

How high are you planning on revving it?  How are you going to get beyond
the factory revlimiter?  If not going beyond the factory revlimiter then
this is probaby a waste of money.

> 8) port and polish internals to match

Polish isn't always the best answer to increase flow.  Send the heads out to
a place with a flow bench with people that know what they are doing.

> Now the question, Am I completely retarded for doing this?
> What am I missing or should not do? I have asked several
> shops and to no avail they have not gotten back to me after 3
> days.......Dynamic won't answer me....Some of these things
> still need to be bought so If your a guru with parts shelf
> then close this sale.

What are you trying to accomplish with this motor?  What's the goal?

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:00:59 EST
From: ThorHolth@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Re:How best to make the car start?

Darren:

Why not just extend the ignition coil transistor harness into the cockpit and
take the transistor with you when you store the car? It's about half the size
of a pack of cigarettes, and without it, the car is NOT going to run.

Just an idea.

- -Thor

 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:13:34 -0500
From: Ed Leung <eleung@summitracing.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughts on my rebuild needed

My 2 cents worth-
The mods you are making shift the powerband upward. If I recall, the stock
motor makes peak power at 6,000rpm. For the sake of argument, let's say
that your power peak becomes 7,500rpm after the modifications. To realize
this gain, that would mean you would need to upshift the car at a shriekin'
8,500-9,000rpm (always shift past the powerband for best et). And still,
you might likely end up with less power than a stock TwinTurbo (1.65hp/ci
on a naturally aspirated engine is a very tall order). My recommendation:
Do a quality rebuild of the short block, but save your money on the
whiz-bang stuff. Then look into turbocharging the engine. Since a
displacement increase is not an option (I'm presuming), then I'd have to
point you in the direction of forced induction rather than more rpm.

Ed Leung
Summit Racing Equipment
(330) 630-0270 ext. 308

- -----Original Message-----
From: ek2mfg [SMTP:ek2mfg@foxinternet.com]
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 1:43 PM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: thoughts on my rebuild needed

93 R/T NA 5sp DOHC 3.0l engine.....

1) forged pistons from ROSS -coated and drylubed
2) 100 shot direct port injection
3) shot peened rods
4) typical short block work...balanced and such
5) Unorthdox cam gears---what setting?
6) Reground cams---what specs?
7) sping kit with titanium retainers
8) port and polish internals to match

Now the question, Am I completely retarded for doing this? What am I
missing or should not do? I have asked several shops and to no avail
they have not gotten back to me after 3 days.......Dynamic won't
answer me....Some of these things still need to be bought so If your
a guru with parts shelf then close this sale.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 11:20:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

After being the victim of thefts before..my advise is to make sure the
insurance is up to date..and never get THAT personal about the car.

YMMV

On Fri, 18 Jan 2002, MIHAI RAICU wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
> Please carbon copy me your answers to my personal address too.
>
> I want to make my car harder for thieves to steal, without
> spending money on a new alarm/car disabling system.
>
> What is the best way to do that.
>
> I thought of two scenarios, however I am open to other
> alternatives.
>
> 1) Install a switch on the 12V (hot lead) wire to the fuel
> pump.  I would probably tap this wire in the trunk area.  One
> problem I think is going to be running a long wire up to the
> driver's area.  There is probably going to be a voltage
> drop.  I am curious if there are remote switches (i.e. put
> the switch in the trunk and remote activate it via radio band
> from the cockpit).
>
> 2) Install an on/off switch on the clutch wire.  This means
> that I open the circuit when I leave the car, so that if a
> thief wants to start it and he presses the clutch it's as if
> he didn't press it, unless he finds the switch.  The option
> of a radio switch seems apealing here also.
>
> I am worried about the thief finding the switch.  Would it be
> possible to sacrifice one of the radio butons off the
> steering column and route the clutch wire to that feather
> touch buton.  However, I have a feeling I need a toggle
> switch buton not feather touch.
>
> If the thief hotwires the car in either of these 2 scenarios,
> he would not be able to start the car, correct?
>
> -MIHAI RAICU-
> 95 Red VR4
> With a soon to be thief proof car.
> Got to put it on a tow truck if you want it.
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>

- ---
Geoff Mohler


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 11:36:32 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: wheel question...

The 3Ss ride on 114.3 bolt pattern wheels.  My Grand Prix has 115 bolt
pattern wheels.  With clearance not an issue, is the pattern difference
too great to swap wheels?

Also, I appologize for not answering your questions wednesday or
yesterday on the Sway bars.  My internet was down.  I guess Steve took
care of the answers.

Damon


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 10:31:35 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: What happened to the sway bar buy?

Since I started this all, I figure I might as well give a heads up.

First off, I appologize to all of those on these lists who don't
frequently check 3si.org.  There's post which states what I'm about to
state.

Steve at 3SXperts (steve@3sxperfromance.com) ordered 12 bars of each
from the same manufacturers.  He was able to get prices which equaled
approximately 16 bars of each purchased during the group buy.
Therefore, it would be much simpler to go through Steve to purchase the
bars.  The cost is:

TT AWD cars:
Front and rears:  Both for $310

NAs:
Front and rears:  Both For $310.

These prices work out to be better than what we would have gotten by
ordering individually (group buy method) through Saner and Quickor.
Steve makes some profit and gets name recognition, Saner and Quickor
only have to place one order, and people don't have to continuosuly
check up on the board to find out how much to pay.  Win/Win/Win...

So, please check out the 3si.org web page (my internet is currently out
for the exact thread) but look under parts for sale and "upgraded sway
bars, group buy).

It's all there.

Take care,
Damon Rachell


Merritt wrote:

> I keep hearing rumors that the group buy on sway bars is off, but
> 3SXPerformance.com is offering better prices.
>
> I seem to have missed the key posts. Can anybody explain what's happening?
>
> Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
>
>
>
> --
> To sub:   Email majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of 'subscribe 3sracers'.
> To unsub: Email majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of 'unsubscribe 3sracers'
> "Ban low performance drivers, not high performance cars."
>
>



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 14:30:42 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: [Fwd: Re: 3S-Racers: What happened to the sway bar buy?]

Since I started this all, I figure I might as well give a heads up.

First off, I appologize to all of those on these lists who don't
frequently check 3si.org.  There's post which states what I'm about to
state.

Steve at 3SXperts (steve@3sxperfromance.com) ordered 12 bars of each
from the same manufacturers.  He was able to get prices which equaled
approximately 16 bars of each purchased during the group buy.
Therefore, it would be much simpler to go through Steve to purchase the
bars.  The cost is:

TT AWD cars:
Front and rears:  Both for $310

NAs:
Front and rears:  Both For $310.

These prices work out to be better than what we would have gotten by
ordering individually (group buy method) through Saner and Quickor.
Steve makes some profit and gets name recognition, Saner and Quickor
only have to place one order, and people don't have to continuosuly
check up on the board to find out how much to pay.  Win/Win/Win...

So, please check out the 3si.org web page (my internet is currently out
for the exact thread) but look under parts for sale and "upgraded sway
bars, group buy).

It's all there.

Take care,
Damon Rachell


Merritt wrote:

 > I keep hearing rumors that the group buy on sway bars is off, but
 > 3SXPerformance.com is offering better prices.
 >
 > I seem to have missed the key posts. Can anybody explain what's
happening?
 >
 > Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
 >
 >
 >
 > --
 > To sub:   Email majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of 'subscribe
3sracers'.
 > To unsub: Email majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of 'unsubscribe
3sracers'
 > "Ban low performance drivers, not high performance cars."
 >
 >




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 11:55:57 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughts on my rebuild needed

I agree about the cam work and retainers --- that's more for high
RPM improvement. I'd build a strong block and do some head and
exhaust work to get it to flow then go with NOS for now and save
up for a supercharger. I not sure the coatings are worth it either
unless you're trying to get that last 1/10 of a second out of the car.

I'm not sure what you bought already but check with Phil at
Flatlander Racing --- they have Ross piston with pins and rings
for about $630.

        Jim Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: ek2mfg <ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 10:42 AM
Subject: Team3S: thoughts on my rebuild needed


> 93 R/T NA 5sp DOHC 3.0l engine.....
>
> 1) forged pistons from ROSS -coated and drylubed
> 2) 100 shot direct port injection
> 3) shot peened rods
> 4) typical short block work...balanced and such
> 5) Unorthdox cam gears---what setting?
> 6) Reground cams---what specs?
> 7) sping kit with titanium retainers
> 8) port and polish internals to match
>
> Now the question, Am I completely retarded for doing this? What am I
> missing or should not do? I have asked several shops and to no avail
> they have not gotten back to me after 3 days.......Dynamic won't
> answer me....Some of these things still need to be bought so If your
> a guru with parts shelf then close this sale.
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 15:09:04 EST
From: ThorHolth@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Transmission Rebuild

Hi all:

For some time, my transmission has been making noises as if one of the
bearings is failing.  I hope it's the clutch throw-out bearing, which will
call for an easy replacement, but if it's not that, and turns out to be
something internal within the case, my research tells me that I am in for
buying a factory rebuild or the like. 

Two questions:

1.  if a bearing in the transmission is shot, then can I have mine rebuilt?
if so, who would you recommend (Kormex?)

2.  If I can't have it rebuilt, who would you recommend as a replacement
supplier?



by the way, the transmission is a W5MG1 (1991 Dodge Stealth RT/Turbo AWD).

thanks for any advice.

- -Thor

 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 15:13:15 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughts on my rebuild needed

How much to transplant a turbo engine into your car?  I know it has been
done.  I've seen it twice.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ed Leung
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 14:14
 
Then look into turbocharging the engine. Since a
displacement increase is not an option (I'm presuming), then I'd have to

point you in the direction of forced induction rather than more rpm.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 15:15:27 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re:How best to make the car start?

Thor,

Because I have not had to think about it before, it wasn't my thread, I
don't live in a bad area, and that kit from Ireland looked world-class.
I still wouldn't mind replacing the side glass with some polycarbonate
(Lexan (tm)) or acrylic which is unbreakable and bullet proof but I
think the laws here in the US state that the car must have glass side
windows.  Might be wrong but I seem to recall something crazy like that.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: ThorHolth@aol.com
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 14:01
 
Darren:

Why not just extend the ignition coil transistor harness into the
cockpit and
take the transistor with you when you store the car? It's about half the
size
of a pack of cigarettes, and without it, the car is NOT going to run.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 15:19:27 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

Similar to the link for George Shaw was an internal extinguisher that
shot smoke into the cockpit of the car making it impossible to see where
to drive.  Might not have been pepper spray but was thick smoke that
made things impossible to see.  Not sure what laws are in the US.  I bet
most of these things are illegal though.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Christopher Deutsch
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 13:18
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)


> And unfortunately, that's exactly what they'll do if they really
> want it.  2
> minutes and its gone.  Fuel cutoffs and the like will stop the amateur
> theives though.
>

That's what really sucks.  Also, I'm not satisfied with just preventing
the
theft, I want the thief punished.  Has anyone tried those Auto Tasers?
http://shopwynns.com/security/at-7.html

I think they stopped making them.  Anyone know why?

Any other MacGyver (http://www.macgyver.org/) like ideas?  Pepper spray?
Mace? Bullet to the head? (sorry, I just really hate thieves)  I think
we
should do like that one country does and chop off your hand if you're
caught
stealing.  I hear the theft rate is like non existent.  I suppose we
could
at least institute a humane system and just put a cement or metal cast
on
their hand for a few decades.

Christopher



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 11:15:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

> Can I instal a long wire from the rear cargo area to the
> driver's area without suffering significant voltage loss?
No, unless the guage is large. When the switch is closed the current
path will be very long. Here are some guidelines for wire size.

http://www.skingco.com/portable_power/wiring_size_chart.htm

But this is why I and others suggest using the wires at the engine
relay. The wire *to* the fuel pump goes through the engine control
relay. Paul shows how:

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Street/2928/stealth/fuelpump.html

There are some ventilation ducts/openings on the driver's side that
are situated nicely for out of the way switch locations.

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "MIHAI RAICU" <mraicu@wayne.edu>
To: "Jeff Lucius" <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Cc: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>; "MIHAI RAICU" <mraicu@wayne.edu>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief
proof)


Jeff,

>I have always thought a fuel pump circuit wire makes a good
one to
>install a switch on. The switch could be located in the rear
>compartment and could be easily and secretly toggled when
>removing/replacing items and not arouse suspicion.

Can I instal a long wire from the rear cargo area to the
driver's area without suffering significant voltage loss?

>
>For the cabin, many folks hide a switch to the engine
control relay.
>This relay is under the carpet on the right side of the
floor console
>(to the right of the radio). It is easy to tap the wires and
switches
>can be hidden in a multitude of places.

This control relay switch is a new alternative I did not
consider.  It's another possibility.

In addition to worrying about
>a thief finding the switch, you should also be concerned
with a
>passenger messing with the switch (why do they think the
power seat
>adjustment is for them?) or with anything bumping the switch
>accidentally.
>

You are right about these things.  That is why I intend to
pull the switch somewhere on the driver's side, to avoid
passanger/switch interactions and so I do not have to stretch
each day towards the switch to disclose it's location.

>Few folks are familiar with airflow signal conditioners or
similar
>devices. Inappropriate settings for these will effectively
prevent
>the engine from starting or running well. Just be sure to
memorize
>the correct ones.

The switch idea in the cockpit seems simpler to me.

>
>A "Denver Boot" would work too. :)
>
New idea that I havem't thought of, but practical only for
long term storage.  I need a solution to be practical for
every day use/long term storage.

>Tinted windows reduce visibility into the car so maybe fewer
>enticements for thieves that just want to steal stuff but
not the
>car.
True.  If they want to steal the radio/airbags and trash the
car, then the thieves can probably do that.  That is a few
thousands worth of damage.  However, I want to make it very
hard to take the entire car away.  They better have a tow
truck ready.
>
>Lastly, never leave information in the car that identifies
you,
>especially your residence. Keep the registration/insurance
card in
>your wallet/purse.
Other records with ownership info can stay at
>home. At least if they get your car, don't let them get to
your home
>also (they know you are not there, assuming the car is not
in your
>driveway).

I practice this already.

>Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
>

- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4


__________________________________________________
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Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 15:20:30 -0500
From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

Someone mentioned couple times already installing a switch on the fuel
relay wire. A relay is basically a switch that is remotely controlled by
wire. Similar to your idea of a radio frequency activated switch.
Disconnect that wire and the switch won't work = no current to the fuel
pump. The fuel pump power supply circuit remains unchanged.

I think you could tap into the steering column switches. If you remove your
steering wheel, there will be a donut-looking thing there with wires coning
in and out of it. I think you could just pick a wire that you do not want
to use for your radio and use it for any other purpose. Just make sure you
do not cut your fuel while driving and playing with the radio.

Philip
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
MIHAI RAICU <mraicu@wayne.edu> wrote:
Can I instal a long wire from the rear cargo area to the
driver's area without suffering significant voltage loss?






****************************************************************************

The information contained in this transmission, which may be
confidential and proprietary, is only for the intended recipients.
Unauthorized use is strictly prohibited. If you receive this
transmission in error, please notify me immediately by telephone
or electronic mail and confirm that you deleted this transmission
and the reply from your electronic mail system.
****************************************************************************




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 12:56:03 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

why not just use the switch from the active exhaust?  No one ever uses
it anyways, and it's pretty inconspicuous.  Link up the fuel relay line
to it, and you're off to the races.  Or dead in your tracks whether
you're in tour mode or sport mode (hehehe).
Damon

Jeff Lucius wrote:

>>Can I instal a long wire from the rear cargo area to the
>>driver's area without suffering significant voltage loss?
>>
> No, unless the guage is large. When the switch is closed the current
> path will be very long. Here are some guidelines for wire size.
>
> http://www.skingco.com/portable_power/wiring_size_chart.htm
>
> But this is why I and others suggest using the wires at the engine
> relay. The wire *to* the fuel pump goes through the engine control
> relay. Paul shows how:
>
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Street/2928/stealth/fuelpump.html
>
> There are some ventilation ducts/openings on the driver's side that
> are situated nicely for out of the way switch locations.
>
> Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "MIHAI RAICU" <mraicu@wayne.edu>
> To: "Jeff Lucius" <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
> Cc: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>; "MIHAI RAICU" <mraicu@wayne.edu>
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 11:57 AM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief
> proof)
>
>
> Jeff,
>
>
>>I have always thought a fuel pump circuit wire makes a good
>>
> one to
>
>>install a switch on. The switch could be located in the rear
>>compartment and could be easily and secretly toggled when
>>removing/replacing items and not arouse suspicion.
>>
>
> Can I instal a long wire from the rear cargo area to the
> driver's area without suffering significant voltage loss?
>
>
>>For the cabin, many folks hide a switch to the engine
>>
> control relay.
>
>>This relay is under the carpet on the right side of the
>>
> floor console
>
>>(to the right of the radio). It is easy to tap the wires and
>>
> switches
>
>>can be hidden in a multitude of places.
>>
>
> This control relay switch is a new alternative I did not
> consider.  It's another possibility.
>
> In addition to worrying about
>
>>a thief finding the switch, you should also be concerned
>>
> with a
>
>>passenger messing with the switch (why do they think the
>>
> power seat
>
>>adjustment is for them?) or with anything bumping the switch
>>accidentally.
>>
>>
>
> You are right about these things.  That is why I intend to
> pull the switch somewhere on the driver's side, to avoid
> passanger/switch interactions and so I do not have to stretch
> each day towards the switch to disclose it's location.
>
>
>>Few folks are familiar with airflow signal conditioners or
>>
> similar
>
>>devices. Inappropriate settings for these will effectively
>>
> prevent
>
>>the engine from starting or running well. Just be sure to
>>
> memorize
>
>>the correct ones.
>>
>
> The switch idea in the cockpit seems simpler to me.
>
>
>>A "Denver Boot" would work too. :)
>>
>>
> New idea that I havem't thought of, but practical only for
> long term storage.  I need a solution to be practical for
> every day use/long term storage.
>
>
>>Tinted windows reduce visibility into the car so maybe fewer
>>enticements for thieves that just want to steal stuff but
>>
> not the
>
>>car.
>>
> True.  If they want to steal the radio/airbags and trash the
> car, then the thieves can probably do that.  That is a few
> thousands worth of damage.  However, I want to make it very
> hard to take the entire car away.  They better have a tow
> truck ready.
>
>>Lastly, never leave information in the car that identifies
>>
> you,
>
>>especially your residence. Keep the registration/insurance
>>
> card in
>
>>your wallet/purse.
>>
> Other records with ownership info can stay at
>
>>home. At least if they get your car, don't let them get to
>>
> your home
>
>>also (they know you are not there, assuming the car is not
>>
> in your
>
>>driveway).
>>
>
> I practice this already.
>
>
>>Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
>>
>>
>
> -MIHAI-
> 95 Red VR4
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>
>



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 15:39:02 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

> Someone mentioned couple times already installing a switch on
> the fuel relay wire.

Yeah, nobody listens.  ;-)

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 18:42:09 -0500
From: MIHAI RAICU <mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)

To all who helped,

Geoff... Advice well taken.  The least I can do is try to
make it harder for thieves to steal it.

Jim Berry...after your post and Jeff Lucius’, it’s obvious I
shouldn’t run that long of a wire from the trunk to the
driver’s side.

Jeff Lucius...Thanks for the link to the MFI relay cutoff
switch webpage.  It is exactly what I was looking for.  Like
always, you have the answer (with the appropriate link) right
at your fingertips.

Damon...I was thinking along the same lines you are.  My car
being a 95 VR4 does not have that switch, however, I can add
it if I want.  I’ll figure out the concealing part on my
own.  The technical aspects are taken care of since Jeff
Lucius gave me that webpage.

- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:18:03 -0500
From: Jerry Bowling <scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

Ok here is my delema,,

    I am thinking about spending ALOT of money on my 92 Stealth (non-turbo)
6 cyl, DOHC 5 speed. Now lets just say that i have a budget of 30-50k. (Guys
this is realistic figure here so please help me out). I am wondering what i
should go with,, turbo or super. What kind of setup up should I go with. Now
I am looking for basically as much HP I can get and still be Street legal.

    I am talking from the injectors to the Tail pipe.. so if somebody can
give me some pointers on the fastest street legal Stealth I can make that
would be much appreciated,,,

AND.. if you sell parts or have access to them, you jsut might be in luck..
I have come into money,, enough for me to jsut be comfortable and I wnat
just one toy.. Please help me out with this info.. If you have other info or
suggestions for me please carbon to my e-mail,,, Thanks again



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 18:16:57 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

>     I am thinking about spending ALOT of money on my 92
> Stealth (non-turbo) 6 cyl, DOHC 5 speed. Now lets just say
> that i have a budget of 30-50k. (Guys this is realistic
> figure here so please help me out). I am wondering what i
> should go with,, turbo or super. What kind of setup up should
> I go with. Now I am looking for basically as much HP I can
> get and still be Street legal.

Sell your car.  Take the $5,000 you get from it - add it to your pile of
money.  Now buy yourself a '93 VR4 for $10,000.  That leaves $25,000-45,000
for upgrades.  You've already got turbos now and an ECU that understands
boost.  Spend the remaining $25,000 - $45,000 on parts for the VR4 and
tranny/drivetrain spares.  Big turbos, big fuel injectors, a fuel/timing
controller/ECU, fuel pump, fuel line upgrades, suspension, exhaust, intake,
polishing all the pretty parts, rebuilding the motor with forged pistons...

Now you are set (and you'll probably still have money left over).

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 16:49:02 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

Not to be anti-3S here, but...

Buy a 1996 Corvette with the LT-4 motor (~$20-25000), and drop it off at
John Lingenfelter's house.  Ask him to bore it out to 427, and drop his
twin turbo kit on it (~$30K).  Viola, 750HP, outhandled a stealth, will
get equal attention, and kick every 3S's ass out there.

I love my TT, but when it comes to outright performance bang for your
buck, there's little a 3S can do to complete with vettes.

Give Brian at GTPro a call and ask him to build you a car.  With a check
in his hand for $25000, and a car, he'll do it all.  Probably 650-700HP,
lightened, with suspension.  Still road worthy.

Just my $0.02.

Jerry Bowling wrote:

> Ok here is my delema,,
>
>     I am thinking about spending ALOT of money on my 92 Stealth (non-turbo)
> 6 cyl, DOHC 5 speed. Now lets just say that i have a budget of 30-50k. (Guys
> this is realistic figure here so please help me out). I am wondering what i
> should go with,, turbo or super. What kind of setup up should I go with. Now
> I am looking for basically as much HP I can get and still be Street legal.
>
>     I am talking from the injectors to the Tail pipe.. so if somebody can
> give me some pointers on the fastest street legal Stealth I can make that
> would be much appreciated,,,
>
> AND.. if you sell parts or have access to them, you jsut might be in luck..
> I have come into money,, enough for me to jsut be comfortable and I wnat
> just one toy.. Please help me out with this info.. If you have other info or
> suggestions for me please carbon to my e-mail,,, Thanks again
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>
>



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 18:32:38 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

Advice:
Sell the non-turbo Stealth and buy a 2nd gen TT Stealth exactly like it.
The extra $5,000 you'll pay to move over will be well worth it.

NOW take that 30-50K and build a killer car starting from a much better,
stronger platform.

Rich/94 VR4

At 07:18 PM 1/18/02 -0500, Jerry Bowling wrote:
>Ok here is my delema,,
>
>    I am thinking about spending ALOT of money on my 92 Stealth (non-turbo)
>6 cyl, DOHC 5 speed. Now lets just say that i have a budget of 30-50k. (

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:48:14 -0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

Keep the Stealth and use it as a daily driver.  Buy a VR4 and mod the hell
out of it like Matt said.  This isn't even about turbos or ECUs....it's
about AWD.  I have an ES Twin Turbo that puts nearly 300 hp and over 300 lbs
of torque to the front wheels and it's a bitch to drive.  Anything over 400
hp is going to be utterly useless.  You get a lot of other stuff with the
VR4 like better seats, climate control and four wheel steering.

I'd also say don't blow such a huge wad on your car.  Enjoy some of it,
certainly, but with times the way they are it would be worth while to save
and/or invest some of it.  Ok, I'm done with nanny mode now ;)

Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jerry Bowling
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 7:18 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger


Ok here is my delema,,

    I am thinking about spending ALOT of money on my 92 Stealth (non-turbo)
6 cyl, DOHC 5 speed. Now lets just say that i have a budget of 30-50k. (Guys
this is realistic figure here so please help me out). I am wondering what i
should go with,, turbo or super. What kind of setup up should I go with. Now
I am looking for basically as much HP I can get and still be Street legal.

    I am talking from the injectors to the Tail pipe.. so if somebody can
give me some pointers on the fastest street legal Stealth I can make that
would be much appreciated,,,

AND.. if you sell parts or have access to them, you jsut might be in luck..
I have come into money,, enough for me to jsut be comfortable and I wnat
just one toy.. Please help me out with this info.. If you have other info or
suggestions for me please carbon to my e-mail,,, Thanks again



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 16:46:13 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

Put the money in a moderately high return set of mutual funds and at the
end of 15 years you'll have a little over one million dollars --- at that
point you can buy damn near any car you want.

        Jim Berry
=====================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Bowling <scorpman@optonline.net>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 4:18 PM
Subject: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger


> Ok here is my delema,,
>
>     I am thinking about spending ALOT of money on my 92 Stealth (non-turbo)
> 6 cyl, DOHC 5 speed. Now lets just say that i have a budget of 30-50k. (Guys
> this is realistic figure here so please help me out). I am wondering what i
> should go with,, turbo or super. What kind of setup up should I go with. Now
> I am looking for basically as much HP I can get and still be Street legal.
>
>     I am talking from the injectors to the Tail pipe.. so if somebody can
> give me some pointers on the fastest street legal Stealth I can make that
> would be much appreciated,,,
>
> AND.. if you sell parts or have access to them, you jsut might be in luck..
> I have come into money,, enough for me to jsut be comfortable and I wnat
> just one toy.. Please help me out with this info.. If you have other info or
> suggestions for me please carbon to my e-mail,,, Thanks again
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 20:01:18 -0500
From: Jerry Bowling <scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

I have heard alot about the VR4 and it is an option.. as far as the
investing the money,, trust me I would not be doing this if I did not have
Alot more then what I am going to spend on this thing.. thanks for the info
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
To: "Team3s Tech List" <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>; "Jerry Bowling"
<scorpman@optonline.net>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 7:48 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger


> Keep the Stealth and use it as a daily driver.  Buy a VR4 and mod the hell
> out of it like Matt said.  This isn't even about turbos or ECUs....it's
> about AWD.  I have an ES Twin Turbo that puts nearly 300 hp and over 300
lbs
> of torque to the front wheels and it's a bitch to drive.  Anything over
400
> hp is going to be utterly useless.  You get a lot of other stuff with the
> VR4 like better seats, climate control and four wheel steering.
>
> I'd also say don't blow such a huge wad on your car.  Enjoy some of it,
> certainly, but with times the way they are it would be worth while to save
> and/or invest some of it.  Ok, I'm done with nanny mode now ;)
>
> Jeff V.
> 1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
> jeffv@1nce.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Jerry Bowling
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 7:18 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
>
>
> Ok here is my delema,,
>
>     I am thinking about spending ALOT of money on my 92 Stealth
(non-turbo)
> 6 cyl, DOHC 5 speed. Now lets just say that i have a budget of 30-50k.
(Guys
> this is realistic figure here so please help me out). I am wondering what
i
> should go with,, turbo or super. What kind of setup up should I go with.
Now
> I am looking for basically as much HP I can get and still be Street legal.
>
>     I am talking from the injectors to the Tail pipe.. so if somebody can
> give me some pointers on the fastest street legal Stealth I can make that
> would be much appreciated,,,
>
> AND.. if you sell parts or have access to them, you jsut might be in
luck..
> I have come into money,, enough for me to jsut be comfortable and I wnat
> just one toy.. Please help me out with this info.. If you have other info
or
> suggestions for me please carbon to my e-mail,,, Thanks again
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>
>



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 16:59:57 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

Just curious (as I'm sure others are too) who died?  Oh, and I'm sorry
for your loss :-(.


Jerry Bowling wrote:

> I have heard alot about the VR4 and it is an option.. as far as the
> investing the money,, trust me I would not be doing this if I did not have
> Alot more then what I am going to spend on this thing.. thanks for the info
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
> To: "Team3s Tech List" <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>; "Jerry Bowling"
> <scorpman@optonline.net>
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 7:48 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
>
>
>
>>Keep the Stealth and use it as a daily driver.  Buy a VR4 and mod the hell
>>out of it like Matt said.  This isn't even about turbos or ECUs....it's
>>about AWD.  I have an ES Twin Turbo that puts nearly 300 hp and over 300
>>
> lbs
>
>>of torque to the front wheels and it's a bitch to drive.  Anything over
>>
> 400
>
>>hp is going to be utterly useless.  You get a lot of other stuff with the
>>VR4 like better seats, climate control and four wheel steering.
>>
>>I'd also say don't blow such a huge wad on your car.  Enjoy some of it,
>>certainly, but with times the way they are it would be worth while to save
>>and/or invest some of it.  Ok, I'm done with nanny mode now ;)
>>
>>Jeff V.
>>1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
>>jeffv@1nce.com
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
>>Of Jerry Bowling
>>Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 7:18 PM
>>To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>>Subject: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
>>
>>
>>Ok here is my delema,,
>>
>>    I am thinking about spending ALOT of money on my 92 Stealth
>>
> (non-turbo)
>
>>6 cyl, DOHC 5 speed. Now lets just say that i have a budget of 30-50k.
>>
> (Guys
>
>>this is realistic figure here so please help me out). I am wondering what
>>
> i
>
>>should go with,, turbo or super. What kind of setup up should I go with.
>>
> Now
>
>>I am looking for basically as much HP I can get and still be Street legal.
>>
>>    I am talking from the injectors to the Tail pipe.. so if somebody can
>>give me some pointers on the fastest street legal Stealth I can make that
>>would be much appreciated,,,
>>
>>AND.. if you sell parts or have access to them, you jsut might be in
>>
> luck..
>
>>I have come into money,, enough for me to jsut be comfortable and I wnat
>>just one toy.. Please help me out with this info.. If you have other info
>>
> or
>
>>suggestions for me please carbon to my e-mail,,, Thanks again
>>
>>
>>
>>***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>
>



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 20:04:34 -0500
From: Jerry Bowling <scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

I really appreciate the input about the money and spending it and investing
it,, but please I have well over 20X more then what I am going to spend on
this car, I have a home and everything,, I want my toy now. so if you have
input on what exactly I can do to my car, OR to a better stealth/vr4 then I
would love to hear your input,, thanks again



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 20:06:45 -0500
From: Jerry Bowling <scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

My Father,, back in 1984,,, money was put in a set in a fixed intrest rate
account and I am set. I am 24 now and getting my money when 25,, (few more
months).. So on with the mods.............



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:28:59 -0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

> Not to be anti-3S here, but...
>
> Buy a 1996 Corvette with the LT-4 motor (~$20-25000), and drop it off at
> John Lingenfelter's house.  Ask him to bore it out to 427, and drop his
> twin turbo kit on it (~$30K).  Viola, 750HP, outhandled a stealth, will
> get equal attention, and kick every 3S's ass out there.
>
> I love my TT, but when it comes to outright performance bang for your
> buck, there's little a 3S can do to complete with vettes.
>

Or buy a Viper and take it to Hennessey and drop in a twin turbo.  No vette
will touch you.  (Not to mention the occasional NHRA super gas dragster)

Christopher


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:27:02 -0800
From: Rick Pierce <piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

One quick note - get at least a 94 VR-4 or Stealth TT, so you will have the
6-speed.  Then build the motor for high horsepower (forged pistons, pauter
rods, extrude honed plenum/intake/heads, ported and polished heads w/ larger
valves, titanium springs, unorthodox cam sprockets, etc.) add: improved fuel
system (Nismo/Denso Pump hot wired for full voltage) with 720cc injectors
and twin fed fuel rails, downpipe with pre-cat eliminators, larger turbos,
Front Mount Intercooler and piping, Alcohol injection, AEM ECU replacement
(or similar), RPS Clutch (stage 3 or the new carbon/carbon), improved
ignition (MSD Dis-4 with Accel Coils), Tein coil overs, KVR 6 Piston Brake
setup, Stainless steel lines, Full Gauges (EGT, A/F Ratio, Boost, Fuel
Pressure, etc), nitrous if so desired, etc.  I'm sure I'm forgetting some
things but I think you could easily pick up a low mileage 94-96 VR-4 or a
94-96 Stealth TT for like $20,000 (maybe even a Spyder for $25,000 -
$30,000) and even buying all the above I don't think you'd hit the $50K
limit (all depends on who is doing the labor and if they'll rip you off).

Just my opinion - hope this helps somewhat,
Rick (I'd love to be in your situation - I'd build it myself so I would know
it was done right!)

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Bowling" <scorpman@optonline.net>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger


> I really appreciate the input about the money and spending it and
investing
> it,, but please I have well over 20X more then what I am going to spend on
> this car, I have a home and everything,, I want my toy now. so if you have
> input on what exactly I can do to my car, OR to a better stealth/vr4 then
I
> would love to hear your input,, thanks again
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:42:07 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

> I really appreciate the input about the money and spending it and
> investing it,, but please I have well over 20X more then what I
> am going to spend on this car, I have a home and everything,, I
> want my toy now. so if you have input on what exactly I can do
> to my car, OR to a better stealth/vr4 then I would love to hear
> your input,, thanks again

Okay, if you are serious about doing this - then get a nice '93 VR4 or
Stealth Twin Turbo (your choice) (need to keep to '93 or earlier to be able
to use a TMO datalogger - a very useful tool, and the '93 should have the
4-bolt mains and nitrided crank).  Forget about the car you already have.
Let that be the grocery-getter or sell it.

Strip the motor down, hot tank the block, have it bored out to 93mm and fit
the GT Pro / Ross forged pistons ($1300).  That'll bump it to about 8.3:1
compression and 3.1 liters of displacement.  Use the Pauter rods while you
are in there ($1400).  Get a nice front-mount intercooler ($3400 or so) -
that'll also eliminate the crappy factory Y-pipe.  You'll need a full
exhaust system (downpipe, test pipe, cat-back, gutted precats) (about
$1300).  Bigger turbos are mandatory - $1800 for a set of 15G's, or $3300 if
you want to be different and get the GT368-SX turbos, or $2500 for
357Magnums).  Boost controller - $300-$600.  An alcohol/water injection kit
($200 - $800).  TMO Datalogger ($300 + a windows notebook).  Dynamic
Racing's cam set ($800) plus cam gears ($850).  A really beefy clutch and
lightened flywheel ($800 - $3000).  High-flow fuel pump ($200-$800).  Set of
720cc injectors ($1100).  DualEGT/boost/AirFuel gauges ($300-900).  Fuel
computer or replacement ECU ($400-$2000)

So already somewhere around $14,500 to $22,000 and I haven't added in
anything for brakes and suspension yet (you'll probably need both - for sure
brakes).  Don't forget that you are going to be racking up a lot of labor
costs for all this (especially the engine rebuild).

If you want to spend lots more money, add nitrous and start melting pistons.

Have fun!

If you are near New Mexico, just have Dynamic Racing build the thing for
you.  Get in touch with Matt over there and just ask him.  He's got the
currently quickest 3/S that's gone fast very recently and runs Dynamic
Racing.  http://www.dynamicracing.com

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

(Ross pistons, HKS intercoolers w/hardpipes, full exhaust, 15G's, HKS EVC IV
boost controller, Spearco Water Injection, Supra Fuel Pump, Fidanza aluminum
flywheel, RPS Stage III clutch, 550cc injectors, EFI Systems PMS fuel/timing
computer, MSD Knock Alert, fuel pump rewire, gauges, and various other
"stuff".)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:45:00 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

> One quick note - get at least a 94 VR-4 or Stealth
> TT, so you will have the 6-speed.

Save yourself the hassle and DON'T do that.  No way to datalog knock.  For
an all-out effort that's almost required to be able to do, although Matt
Monett has been successful without being able to do so on his '95.  Or make
sure whatever aftermarket ECU you use can warn you in some way of excessive
knock.

Your mileage may vary.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:47:31 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

Call Matt at Dynamic --- he said for 60 large he'd sell his car.


        Jim Berry
========================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jannusch, Matt <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: 'Jerry Bowling' <scorpman@optonline.net>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 5:42 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
>
> If you are near New Mexico, just have Dynamic Racing build the thing for
> you.  Get in touch with Matt over there and just ask him.  He's got the
> currently quickest 3/S that's gone fast very recently and runs Dynamic
> Racing.  http://www.dynamicracing.com
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:51:51 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

You can get the pistons for $630 and the rods $1000 from Flatlander Racing.

        Jim Berry
================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jannusch, Matt <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: 'Jerry Bowling' <scorpman@optonline.net>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 5:42 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger


> > I really appreciate the input about the money and spending it and
> > investing it,, but please I have well over 20X more then what I
> > am going to spend on this car, I have a home and everything,, I
> > want my toy now. so if you have input on what exactly I can do
> > to my car, OR to a better stealth/vr4 then I would love to hear
> > your input,, thanks again
>
> Okay, if you are serious about doing this - then get a nice '93 VR4 or
> Stealth Twin Turbo (your choice) (need to keep to '93 or earlier to be able
> to use a TMO datalogger - a very useful tool, and the '93 should have the
> 4-bolt mains and nitrided crank).  Forget about the car you already have.
> Let that be the grocery-getter or sell it.
>
> Strip the motor down, hot tank the block, have it bored out to 93mm and fit
> the GT Pro / Ross forged pistons ($1300).  That'll bump it to about 8.3:1
> compression and 3.1 liters of displacement.  Use the Pauter rods while you
> are in there ($1400).  Get a nice front-mount intercooler ($3400 or so) -
> that'll also eliminate the crappy factory Y-pipe.  You'll need a full
> exhaust system (downpipe, test pipe, cat-back, gutted precats) (about
> $1300).  Bigger turbos are mandatory - $1800 for a set of 15G's, or $3300 if
> you want to be different and get the GT368-SX turbos, or $2500 for
> 357Magnums).  Boost controller - $300-$600.  An alcohol/water injection kit
> ($200 - $800).  TMO Datalogger ($300 + a windows notebook).  Dynamic
> Racing's cam set ($800) plus cam gears ($850).  A really beefy clutch and
> lightened flywheel ($800 - $3000).  High-flow fuel pump ($200-$800).  Set of
> 720cc injectors ($1100).  DualEGT/boost/AirFuel gauges ($300-900).  Fuel
> computer or replacement ECU ($400-$2000)
>
> So already somewhere around $14,500 to $22,000 and I haven't added in
> anything for brakes and suspension yet (you'll probably need both - for sure
> brakes).  Don't forget that you are going to be racking up a lot of labor
> costs for all this (especially the engine rebuild).
>
> If you want to spend lots more money, add nitrous and start melting pistons.
>
> Have fun!
>
> If you are near New Mexico, just have Dynamic Racing build the thing for
> you.  Get in touch with Matt over there and just ask him.  He's got the
> currently quickest 3/S that's gone fast very recently and runs Dynamic
> Racing.  http://www.dynamicracing.com
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> (Ross pistons, HKS intercoolers w/hardpipes, full exhaust, 15G's, HKS EVC IV
> boost controller, Spearco Water Injection, Supra Fuel Pump, Fidanza aluminum
> flywheel, RPS Stage III clutch, 550cc injectors, EFI Systems PMS fuel/timing
> computer, MSD Knock Alert, fuel pump rewire, gauges, and various other
> "stuff".)
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:05:02 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

See below, I edited it for a more realistic view..........


At 04:49 PM 1/18/02 -0800, Damon Rachell wrote:

>Give Brian at GTPro a call and ask him to build you a car.  With a check
>in his hand for $25000, and a car, he'll pack up his shop, move to another
>state, not tell anybody where he is going (especially you), and nobody
>will see or hear from him for the next three years.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 21:28:18 -0500
From: Jerry Bowling <scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: thoughts on turbo/supercharger

Umm ok what is this one about?? hehe...



See below, I edited it for a more realistic view..........


At 04:49 PM 1/18/02 -0800, Damon Rachell wrote:

>Give Brian at GTPro a call and ask him to build you a car.  With a check
>in his hand for $25000, and a car, he'll pack up his shop, move to another
>state, not tell anybody where he is going (especially you), and nobody
>will see or hear from him for the next three years.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 20:50:44 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: thoughts on turbo/supercharger

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Bowling <scorpman@optonline.net>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Friday, January 18, 2002 8:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: thoughts on turbo/supercharger


Umm ok what is this one about?? hehe...



See below, I edited it for a more realistic view..........


At 04:49 PM 1/18/02 -0800, Damon Rachell wrote:

>Give Brian at GTPro a call and ask him to build you a car.  With a check
>in his hand for $25000, and a car, he'll pack up his shop, move to another
>state, not tell anybody where he is going (especially you), and nobody
>will see or hear from him for the next three years.


- -------------------------------------------------------------------

You don't want to know .....

Heck - I might be tempted to sell my car for the
kind of money you're talking about.

It already has all the mods!

The only problem is:  we're nearly bonded
by blood at this point ....

I do agree with the others - go with a VR-4
or StealthTT.  There's no sense pouring so
much $ into a FWD NA when you can go with the
turbo model and enjoy the huge benefits.

- - tds

http://www.brightok.net/~tds





***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 22:06:46 -0500
From: Jerry Bowling <scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject: Team3S: re: thought on turbo/supercharger

Ok Ok,,
    So I am going to get the VR4... and keep my 92 Stealth for a beter car
for my Daughter,, hehe.. And I pretty much have all the info I was looking
for.

    Thanks all for all the helpful information. It was all I was hoping for.



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 19:02:04 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Team3S: fuel pump

Todd back to fuel pumps a minute por favor --- have you looked at the
aeromotive fuel pump controller ??? one om my concerns and yours
was the over heating of the high volume pump, this thing controls the
voltage to the pump based on rpm --- any comments.

        Jim Berry
==========================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <tds@brightok.net>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 3:20 PM
Subject: Fwd: Re: Team3S: fuel pump


> > > Thanks for the input --- I was looking at the 11104 which they claim
> > > supports 900 hp for turbo applications [ 1200 for N/A cars ]. I also
> > > plan on moving the battery to the rear and install a relay in back for
> > > the pump to keep it at 13 volts although it should do what I need even
> > > at 12 volts --- I'm a big believer in overkill.
> > >
> > > One thing I'd like to do is run reduced voltage to the pump at idle like
> > > the stock system --- did you do anything like that. One of my concerns
> > > is heating the fuel in the tank --- during long periods of idle or slow
> > > speeds the hi volume pump and high under hood temps can cause the
> > > fuel returned to the tank to get pretty warm.
> > >
> > > I'm a little confused about your setup --- you're running an HKS in
> > > parallel with your Aeromotive ???
> > >
> > > Interesting thread on rocket fuel --- I take it you approve of it's use
> > > for playing around and tuning.
> > >
> > >         Jim Berry         
> >
> >
> > -------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Jim,
> >
> > I'm running the HKS in-tank pump - then through -8AN to the Aeromotive
> > which is a few feet towards the motor.  We built a custom mount
> > and attached to a "bulkhead" above the rear diff.  Those who seem
> > to know a lot about these say it is better not to use these types
> > of in-line pumps in push-pull configuration.  They are said to heat
> > up when working that hard.   So I run them in series - but I'm not the
> > first.
> >
> > In order to run reduced voltage to the Aeromotive you would need to take
> > advantage of the stock relay which performs this for the in-tank pump or
> > use something similiar.  With my underdrive pulley and small battery, the
> > Aeromotive (and overall voltage shown on my voltmeter) gears down at idle and
> > low speed anyway.  If one wanted to run both pumps off the same line to take
> > advantage of the stock relay, the wire size would need to be greatly
> increased
> > due to the extra requirements of the Aeromotive.  I wired direct to the
> battery
> > using a stereo amp kit and then used the relay connected to the stock (HKS
> > upgrade) pump wiring to turn in on/off automatically / both at the same time.
> >
> > The rocket fuel has been fun.  Excellent numbers on the datalog at higher
> > boost. Too bad it's so costly or I would run it all the time - at least a 96
> > mix.  I'll have to make due with denatured injection most of the time or
> until
> > I win the lottery ...
> >
> >
> > - tds



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 22:20:31 -0500
From: Jerry Bowling <scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

Thanks,, That I will do, I hopefully will be breaking alot of Records,, but
that is not what it is about,, just an extreme sportist,, faster, harder,
longer and more adrenlin pump is what I am looking for... :)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: "'Jerry Bowling'" <scorpman@optonline.net>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 10:07 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger


> Again ... sorry for the loss.  Buy my 1995 VR-4 with rollbar, Big Reds,
> race seat, harness.  Book value has got to be near $40k still (grin).
>
> Enjoy the %&@_) out of it and keep us posted what you do and what
> records you break along the way.
>
> If you haven't' seen the list then Geoff Mohler stripped a VR-4 to about
> 3,400 pounds and gave it some massive power for a road course.  Arty is
> still building a sub-10 second first gen VR-4 with stock 5-speed tranny
> (huge ass turbo, NOS, etc.).  It depends if you want it for street
> racing, drag, road course, etc.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
> Pittsburgh, PA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Jerry Bowling
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 20:07
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
>
> My Father,, back in 1984,,, money was put in a set in a fixed intrest
> rate
> account and I am set. I am 24 now and getting my money when 25,, (few
> more
> months).. So on with the mods.............
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>
>
>
>



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 20:28:11 -0700
From: "Rick" <rcousar@datawest.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: wheel question...

Check those sites I had in my previous posting. It will answer all your
wheel questions. The quick anser is no. Stick with the stock bolt pattern.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
To: Team3S <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; 3sracers <3sracers@www.speedtoys.com>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 12:36 PM
Subject: Team3S: wheel question...


> The 3Ss ride on 114.3 bolt pattern wheels.  My Grand Prix has 115 bolt
> pattern wheels.  With clearance not an issue, is the pattern difference
> too great to swap wheels?
>
> Also, I appologize for not answering your questions wednesday or
> yesterday on the Sway bars.  My internet was down.  I guess Steve took
> care of the answers.
>
> Damon
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 00:37:08 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Team3S: fuel pump

http://www.brightok.net/~tds
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
To: tds@brightok.net <tds@brightok.net>; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Friday, January 18, 2002 9:03 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Team3S: fuel pump


>Todd back to fuel pumps a minute por favor --- have you looked at the
>aeromotive fuel pump controller ??? one om my concerns and yours
>was the over heating of the high volume pump, this thing controls the
>voltage to the pump based on rpm --- any comments.
>
>        Jim Berry
>==========================================

I haven't seen this Barry (or have forgotten)
but I'll try to get some info on it.

I'm fairly sure that any potential problem for heat will be
minimal on my setup since I'm constantly feeding fresh fuel
via a different pump and my voltage already drops at low
rpm and especially idle, (it's audibly noticable) and I don't
spend a lot of time sitting in traffic or low rpm.
(weekend car and small town)

It also has access to good airflow (in my case) and
since the entire outer case is one big heatsink I don't
anticipate overheating problems.  Even the custom
bracket we used to mount the pump serves as a
heatsink, and then the "bulkhead" or framepiece.
(not sure what to call that piece straight above the
rear diff when looking from the rear.)

That's not to say other people or setups shouldn't address
this potential problem.  When it comes to fuel pumps there
are a lot of ways to skin this cat.  Tailoring the setup to your
own needs is encouraged.  With these larger in-line pumps,
just finding a place to put them can be challenging.  You can
get really crazy and start adding sumps in the bottom of the
tank, gravity feed the new pump etc ....

- - tds




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 03:20:10 -0800
From: "Steven M." <nws3@winisp.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: thoughts on turbo/supercharger

I'd say go for the 1996 stealth, supposedly the lightest of all years.

RE: the shops....the shops are the shops...
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Bowling" <scorpman@optonline.net>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 6:28 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: thoughts on turbo/supercharger


> Umm ok what is this one about?? hehe...
>
>
>
> See below, I edited it for a more realistic view..........
>
>
> At 04:49 PM 1/18/02 -0800, Damon Rachell wrote:
>
> >Give Brian at GTPro a call and ask him to build you a car.  With a check
> >in his hand for $25000, and a car, he'll pack up his shop, move to
another
> >state, not tell anybody where he is going (especially you), and nobody
> >will see or hear from him for the next three years.
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 10:53:38 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: thoughts on turbo/supercharger

> I'd say go for the 1996 stealth, supposedly the
> lightest of all years.

You think you can find one?  They only built 57.  Then you are also stuck
with the non-knock-logging ECU again.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 12:24:49 -0500
From: "Wayne Bonnett" <wayne@wbwebsol.com>
Subject: Team3S: MDP sensor, Need Advise....

Ok, here is the deal.  My check engine light came on.  Upon having the local
Mitsubishi dealer use his scan tool.  It turns out the reason for the check
engine light is directly related to the MDP sensor.  If I reset the ECU, the
problem goes away for about a week, then the check engine light comes back
on.

The dealer said it was because of my "aftermarket intake", which is a K&N
FIPK, which according to the tech, is suppressing the airflow.  They
suggested that I put my stock intake back in, and the problem should go
away.  I have had the FIPK on since last March, and have had no problems
with anything, except for sometime last month, the check engine light comes
on.

Has anyone on the list had problems with the MDP sensor?  My guess is the
sensor is bad, and Mitsu quoted me a price of around $125 for the part.  I
could replace it myself, saving the labor, but before I buy, I just wanted
to run it by the gurus.....  Thank for you help!

Any thoughts?


Thanks,
Wayne Bonnett
www.WBWebSol.com

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***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 12:29:17 -0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: thoughts on turbo/supercharger

If the guy is willing to drop $35,000 on an engine buildup, don't you think
he could put down $1300 or so for a standalone ECU with logging that
surpasses anything ANY 3S came with stock?

Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 11:54 AM
To: 'Steven M.'; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: thoughts on turbo/supercharger


> I'd say go for the 1996 stealth, supposedly the
> lightest of all years.

You think you can find one?  They only built 57.  Then you are also stuck
with the non-knock-logging ECU again.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 11:31:16 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Team3S: Hoax Regarding Crankshaft?

I just dropped off my crank at a machine shop to have them give me an
estimate on re-nitrating, welding, etc. I told them it could not be turned
because it was a factory hardened crank (possibly nitrated). He said if it
was nitrated, it would be black. If it is hardened, that would be even
better for turning.

My question is, where did all this talk about factory cranks not allowed to
be turned come from?
Also....If they can't be turned, why does Mitsubishi sell undersized bearings?

Thanks,
Wayne

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #730
***************************************