Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, January 18
2002 Volume 01 : Number
729
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 17 Jan 2002 11:44:25 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pressure Bleeding Brakes Question
> There is also an order
in which you are supposed to bleed (I
> believe it is rear left, front
left, rear right, front right) as it ends
> with the corner closest to the
ABS brain. I think I have that in the
> right order.
[Willis,
Charles E.] That's not the bleeding order in my service
manual - it's
passenger side rear, driver's side front, drivers side rear,
and passenger
side front.
In some ways this sequence is unusual: I had always
been taught to
start at the farthest point from the master cylinder and end
up with the
caliper closest to the master cylinder. I think a while ago
we had a thread
about how the dual inline piston master cylinder controls
pairs of calipers
on opposite sides of the car, but I could be wrong
(again).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:02:23
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pressure Bleeding Brakes Question
That's the order, Chuck.
Regardless if you forget ... always work from
the farthest corner from either
the master cylinder or ABS brain (the
back corners) then go opposite (front
corners) then to the back then the
front again. This is because the
fail-safe brake lines cross and if you
lose your brake lines in the rear left
then you will still have braking
in the front left and rear right. It
makes an X for safety in case one
corner gets crimped. Therefore the
rear is not connected to the rear
but to the opposite front corner. You
get the idea folks.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent:
Thursday, January 17, 2002 12:44
To:
'dschilberg@pobox.com';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Pressure Bleeding Brakes Question
> There is also an order
in which you are supposed to bleed (I
> believe it is rear left, front
left, rear right, front right) as it
ends
> with the corner closest to
the ABS brain. I think I have that in the
> right order.
[Willis, Charles E.] That's not the bleeding order in
my
service
manual - it's passenger side rear, driver's side front, drivers
side
rear,
and passenger side front.
In some ways this sequence is
unusual: I had always been taught
to
start at the farthest point
from the master cylinder and end up with the
caliper closest to the master
cylinder. I think a while ago we had a
thread
about how the dual
inline piston master cylinder controls pairs of
calipers
on opposite sides
of the car, but I could be wrong (again).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 15:47:01
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Mod Shop in Iowa
Just got back from visiting Fast and Furious Co,
a new speed shop for rice
burners here in bucolic, backwater Cedar Rapids,
Iowa. They just opened, so
there's not too much hardware on the floor, but
the owner, Trent Durham,
drives a modded Talon. He says he's familiar with
Talons and 3000GTs, and
used to run a similar shop in Davenport.
Alas, Davenport is Iowa's version of Allentown, Pa, so Trent moved
over
here where the economy is better. (Little does he know...)
He
certainly seems to talk the talk OK.
He was familiar with most of the issues
involved in modding up our cars. I
especially liked it when he said he
sets his cars up to run on the rich
side, so they don't burn pistons. As
someone who runs WOT for 30 minutes at
a time in open tracking, that's what I
wanted to hear.
I'm going to start working with him on both my cars.
First project will be
to put a Supra fuel pump in the VR4 and then do the
basic/free Talon engine
mods, and then maybe finally install the 560
injectors that I've been
sitting on for the past year. (I'll post a question
on that to the 3S forum
separately)
You can bet that I'll report how
things go. We all want Trent to succeed,
because us flyover people need a
good, strong, successful speed shop here
in the central Midwest.
For
all those folks in and around Iowa who have been looking for a mod
shop,
looks like we finally have one.
It's interesting to note that F&F is
right down the street (two blocks)
from Denny's Mufflers, the best shop in
the Midwest for installing springs,
brakes, exhaust and alignment for our
cars. You could get a LOT of work
done here in Cedar Rapids. Even our
Mitsubishi dealer (Zimmerman) ain't too
bad, if you absolutely must go see
Satan.
Contact Trent at:
Fast and Furious
2519 16th Ave
SW
Cedar Rapids Iowa 52404
319/365-3336
319/981-6931 (cell)
fastfuriousco@msn.comwww.fastandfuriousco.comTell
Trent that Rich (black Mitsubishi) sent ya.
Rich/slow old poop
92
Eagle Talon TSi AWD (someday a pro rally car)
94 3000GT VR4 (open track
car)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 16:15:20
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Putting in injectors
I've been sitting on a set of 560 injectors
for more than a year, mainly
because I couldn't find anybody who knew how to
put them in and deal with
all the engine issues involved. I've found a shop
that seems to know what
it's doing, so I want to go for
it.
Question: What is involved with installing bigger
injectors?
I have a Stillen downpipe, catback exhaust, Alamo
intercoolers, Supra fuel
pump (going in next week), boost gauge and a K&N
on my 94 3000GT VR4. As
near as I can tell from following your
recommendations so far, I've taken
care of the fuel flow in and the exhaust
out parts of the equation (I HAVE
been listening to you guys, really!
Although I don't always understand what
yer talking about most of the time,
some of it sinks in).
All suggestions as to the installation,
recommended AFC, recommended boost
controller, water injection, etc would be
welcome. I'm sure the guy knows
what he's doing, but the collective knowledge
of this group is awesome, and
will be brought to his attention prior to doing
the work. Please remember
that this is not a drag car, it's an open
track car that may run WOT for up
to 30 minutes at a time on road
courses. I don't wanna burn pistons.
Rich/slow old poop/94
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 16:44:57
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Road Racing
There will be a Road Racing event at the National
Gathering.
$50.00 for 4 hours. 3/S only on the track.
Chuck, they are
looking for Instructors.
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?postid=485702&t=4811#post485702 ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 19:44:05
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: fuel
pump
I'm going to buy a High output fuel pump, either an SX or an
Aeromotive
pump, any comments, pros or cons on one or the other.
I'm
leaning towards the Aeromotive --- I've seen a couple of negative
comments
on the SX.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 22:15:19
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
fuel pump
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, January 17, 2002 9:48 PM
Subject: Team3S: fuel pump
>I'm
going to buy a High output fuel pump, either an SX or an Aeromotive
>pump,
any comments, pros or cons on one or the other.
>
>I'm leaning
towards the Aeromotive --- I've seen a couple of negative
>comments on
the SX.
>
>
> Jim
Berry
-
----------------------------------------------------------------
I doubt
there is a whole lot of difference between the two.
I'm running the
Aeromotive in-line along with an
HKS in pump. Seems to work well but
both of
these pumps make some noise. I'm using
8 AN steel braided
hoses along with an SX
fuel filter and SX FPR. Summit sells the
Aeromotive -
quick and easy to purchase - even on-line.
They
also have a new model that supports even
higher HP than mine. I have
the 1K HP but is
is rated less for FI/higher FP.
One important
note: If you use 8 AN you will
need the 10 > 8 reducer since the
pump
has 10 AN inlets/outlets. *BE SURE* and
use the reducer/adapter
that contains/uses
an O-ring. Otherwise it will leak. Same
issue
on the fuel filter if you go that route.
I used a switch (about
$6-$8) and the Aeromotive
power (direct lead) is activated when the
in-tank
pump comes on.
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 23:20:12
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: Fwd: Re: Team3S:
fuel pump
Forwarded Message:
> To: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>, "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
> From:
tds@brightok.net> Subject: Re: Team3S:
fuel pump
> Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 23:18:26 US/Central
>
-----
> > Todd
> >
> > Thanks for the input --- I
was looking at the 11104 which they claim
> > supports 900 hp for turbo
applications [ 1200 for N/A cars ]. I also
> > plan on moving the
battery to the rear and install a relay in back for
> > the pump to
keep it at 13 volts although it should do what I need even
> > at 12
volts --- I'm a big believer in overkill.
> >
> > One thing
I'd like to do is run reduced voltage to the pump at idle like
> > the
stock system --- did you do anything like that. One of my concerns
> >
is heating the fuel in the tank --- during long periods of idle or slow
>
> speeds the hi volume pump and high under hood temps can cause the
>
> fuel returned to the tank to get pretty warm.
> >
> >
I'm a little confused about your setup --- you're running an HKS in
> >
parallel with your Aeromotive ???
> >
> > Interesting thread
on rocket fuel --- I take it you approve of it's use
> > for playing
around and tuning.
> >
>
> Jim
Berry
>
-------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Jim,
>
> I'm running the HKS in-tank pump - then through -8AN to
the Aeromotive
> which is a few feet towards the motor. We built a
custom mount
> and attached to a "bulkhead" above the rear diff.
Those who seem
> to know a lot about these say it is better not to use
these types
> of in-line pumps in push-pull configuration. They are
said to heat
> up when working that hard. So I run them in
series - but I'm not the
> first.
>
> In order to run reduced
voltage to the Aeromotive you would need to take
> advantage of the stock
relay which performs this for the in-tank pump or
> use something
similiar. With my underdrive pulley and small battery, the
>
Aeromotive (and overall voltage shown on my voltmeter) gears down at idle and
> low speed anyway. If one wanted to run both pumps off the same
line to take
> advantage of the stock relay, the wire size would need to
be greatly
increased
> due to the extra requirements of the
Aeromotive. I wired direct to the
battery
> using a stereo amp
kit and then used the relay connected to the stock (HKS
> upgrade) pump
wiring to turn in on/off automatically / both at the same time.
>
>
The rocket fuel has been fun. Excellent numbers on the datalog at higher
> boost. Too bad it's so costly or I would run it all the time - at least
a 96
> mix. I'll have to make due with denatured injection most of
the time or
until
> I win the lottery ...
>
> -
tds
> This message was sent using BrightNet MailMan.
>
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 09:03:31
-0700
From: "Rick" <
rcousar@datawest.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Tire and wheel info links
Hay guys I have been a member of this
group for some time now and over the
years, I have noticed alot of
questions regarding wheels and tires. I
myself was in the market for a new
set of wheels, and ran into a bit of
trouble finding ones that fit. Below is
a list of links that wheel make your
wheel search much easier. The first link
has a wheel chart.. The rest of the
links are for people that want to know
more about wheels and offsets and
etc. Hope this helps.
http://www.autotrixx.com/specs.htmlhttp://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.htmlhttp://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf20044.htmhttp://www.edmunds.com/ownership/techcenter/articles/46431/article.html***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:12:05
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Installing a Supra pump
Somewhere, on somebody's web site, is a
full set of instructions on how to
install a Supra fuel pump. Anybody know
the link?
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 08:13:11
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Installing a Supra pump
I thought you said you'd been paying attention
--- look at Jeff Lucius's
site or the FAQ section of Team
3S.
Jim
Berry
=========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, January 18, 2002 8:12 AM
Subject: Team3S: Installing a Supra
pump
> Somewhere, on somebody's web site, is a full set of
instructions on how to
> install a Supra fuel pump. Anybody know the
link?
>
> Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 08:55:31
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Installing a Supra pump
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-fuelpump.htmThe
Supra pump is a direct drop in replacement for the stock VR4/TT
pump. I now
recommend leaving the flexible high-pressure hose
attached at the pump
assembly and disconnecting it forward (near
front of the tank) where it
attaches to the long pipe. This minimizes
the chance of bending the short
high-pressure pipe that is on the
assembly.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, January 18, 2002 9:12 AM
Subject: Team3S: Installing a Supra
pump
Somewhere, on somebody's web site, is a full set of instructions
on
how to install a Supra fuel pump. Anybody know the link?
Rich/slow
old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 11:59:02
-0500
From: MIHAI RAICU <
mraicu@WAYNE.EDU>
Subject: Team3S: How
to best make the car not start? (thief proof)
Hello
everyone,
Please carbon copy me your answers to my personal address
too.
I want to make my car harder for thieves to steal, without
spending money on a new alarm/car disabling system.
What is the best
way to do that.
I thought of two scenarios, however I am open to other
alternatives.
1) Install a switch on the 12V (hot lead) wire to the
fuel
pump. I would probably tap this wire in the trunk area. One
problem I think is going to be running a long wire up to the
driver's
area. There is probably going to be a voltage
drop. I am curious
if there are remote switches (i.e. put
the switch in the trunk and remote
activate it via radio band
from the cockpit).
2) Install an on/off
switch on the clutch wire. This means
that I open the circuit when I
leave the car, so that if a
thief wants to start it and he presses the
clutch it's as if
he didn't press it, unless he finds the switch. The
option
of a radio switch seems apealing here also.
I am worried about
the thief finding the switch. Would it be
possible to sacrifice one of
the radio butons off the
steering column and route the clutch wire to that
feather
touch buton. However, I have a feeling I need a toggle
switch buton not feather touch.
If the thief hotwires the car in
either of these 2 scenarios,
he would not be able to start the car,
correct?
- -MIHAI RAICU-
95 Red VR4
With a soon to be thief proof
car.
Got to put it on a tow truck if you want it.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 12:37:46
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: How to best make the car not start? (thief proof)
Search the
archives. The owner is from Ireland. Has a super
thief-proof
"bonnet" lock (i.e. hood lock) as well as a "boot" lock
(i.e. trunk
lock). I keep thinking I will get one on mine but I never
do.
Seems silly with a $20k car sitting there and an economic lock will
keep it
safe.
They are pros at installing things like car alarms, etc. and can
get
into a locked 3/S in something under 20 seconds and disable the
stock
alarm. Maybe 45 seconds for an aftermarket alarm.
With
this "bonnet lock" installed it took them 12 minutes and I think
that
included having the car up on a lift where they could get
underneath the
engine, etc.
I know I have it saved somewhere. Well worth the
investment if you do
not have the Lo-Jack system, etc. in your area.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: MIHAI
RAICU
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 11:59
Hello
everyone,
Please carbon copy me your answers to my personal address
too.
I want to make my car harder for thieves to steal, without
spending money on a new alarm/car disabling system.
What is the best
way to do that.
I thought of two scenarios, however I am open to other
alternatives.
1) Install a switch on the 12V (hot lead) wire to the
fuel
pump. I would probably tap this wire in the trunk area. One
problem I think is going to be running a long wire up to the
driver's
area. There is probably going to be a voltage
drop. I am curious
if there are remote switches (i.e. put
the switch in the trunk and remote
activate it via radio band
from the cockpit).
2) Install an on/off
switch on the clutch wire. This means
that I open the circuit when I
leave the car, so that if a
thief wants to start it and he presses the
clutch it's as if
he didn't press it, unless he finds the switch. The
option
of a radio switch seems apealing here also.
I am worried about
the thief finding the switch. Would it be
possible to sacrifice one of
the radio butons off the
steering column and route the clutch wire to that
feather
touch buton. However, I have a feeling I need a toggle
switch buton not feather touch.
If the thief hotwires the car in
either of these 2 scenarios,
he would not be able to start the car,
correct?
- -MIHAI RAICU-
95 Red VR4
With a soon to be thief proof
car.
Got to put it on a tow truck if you want it.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#729
***************************************