Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, January 16 2002 Volume 01 : Number 727

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:54:00 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Big Black brakes

Mistake fixed. Thanks, Jeff. And I would bet this would be a better
chart for your page if you want to take it back.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 09:52

There is a mistake on the web page below.

www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/brakes/Brake_piston_calculations.htm

The 4-piston Alcon calipers are like the 4-piston Sumitomo (stock
VR4/TT) calipers. That is, there are two sets of active, opposed
pistons (not 4 sets). The total area on that chart needs to be
divided by two, bringing it down to 1.33 in. sq., basically the same
as the VR4's.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 11:03:20 -0700
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Team3S: Mobil 1

I've purchased the 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart for $18.88, which is
$3.78/qt. Almost enough to make me go to it instead of the Amsoil which I
usually run.

- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:13:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: AP and Other Type ROTOR Replacement Cost?

Im not aware of any reason to replace it..unless you notice odd wear at
the attachment bolt holes..etc.

On Tue, 15 Jan 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:

> I know rotors should be replaced when they get to thin, How often should
> the hat be replaced?
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 10:05 PM
> > To: xwing
> > Cc: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: AP and Other Type ROTOR Replacement Cost?
> >
> > A plain rotor without hat will cost about $135-175/ea depending on the
> > options on how the rotor is built at that specific vendor.
> > Cryo/slot/drill will be on top of that as well.
> >
> > Hats are ~$200-245/ea.
> >
> > A new hardware kit is ~$48 shipped for when you bolt up new rotors.
> >
> > On Mon, 14 Jan 2002, xwing wrote:
> >
> > > Does anybody know what the cost of the ROTOR only (not with HAT) is for
> > the
> > > AP Racing 14", Stillen/AP 13.5" kit, Big Red kit, etc?
> > >
> > > One advantage to a HAT is hopefully less replacement cost?
> > > JT
> > ---
> > Geoff Mohler

- ---
Geoff Mohler

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:22:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECU access

My instructions show how to remove it but not open it up, etc.

http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius5/j5-2-ecmremoval.htm

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "glynn birds" <glynn_birds@hotmail.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 9:49 AM
Subject: Team3S: ECU access

Hi, I've seen somewhere a step by step guide for removing the ecu.
Anybody know of the link?

Many thanks,

Glynn
1994 GTO Automatic

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:30:26 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: RE: Team3S: AP and Other Type ROTOR Replacement Cost?

I second Geoffs note, no need to replace them as long as there is no
mechanical problem with cracks. My Bremsa anodized hat look like on day one.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

At 10:13 15.01.2002 -0800, Geoff Mohler wrote:
>Im not aware of any reason to replace it..unless you notice odd wear at
>the attachment bolt holes..etc.
>
>On Tue, 15 Jan 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
>
> > I know rotors should be replaced when they get to thin, How often should
> > the hat be replaced?
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:       Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > > Sent:       Monday, January 14, 2002 10:05 PM
> > > To: xwing
> > > Cc: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> > > Subject:    Re: Team3S: AP and Other Type ROTOR Replacement Cost?
> > >
> > > A plain rotor without hat will cost about $135-175/ea depending on the
> > > options on how the rotor is built at that specific vendor.
> > > Cryo/slot/drill will be on top of that as well.
> > >
> > > Hats are ~$200-245/ea.
> > >
> > > A new hardware kit is ~$48 shipped for when you bolt up new rotors.
> > >
> > > On Mon, 14 Jan 2002, xwing wrote:
> > >
> > > > Does anybody know what the cost of the ROTOR only (not with HAT) is for
> > > the
> > > > AP Racing 14", Stillen/AP 13.5" kit, Big Red kit, etc?
> > > >
> > > > One advantage to a HAT is hopefully less replacement cost?
> > > > JT
> > > ---
> > > Geoff Mohler
>---
>Geoff Mohler

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 12:27:09 -0700
From: "Zach Sauerman" <axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: oil filters

While oil seems to be the big topic of discussion, are there any
recommendations about the filter?
I started using the Mitsu filter, then found the K&N and have been using
that ever since. I like that 1" stud on the back to make it that much easier
to get off. I haven't done any slicing open or anything to see what the
filter looks lie afterwards, maybe someone has.
Does anyone have other recommendations about filters? I didn't dig $18 for
the Mitsu filter. I know the K&N and Mobil 1 filters are about the same
price, and about half what the Mitsu filter is (around C-Springs at least).
I personally will never use Fram again after the turbo in my old Mazda
failed because of a clogged oil return line. (So that's my recommendation)

Drive fast and turn faster,
Zach Sauerman
'94 Pearl Yellow TT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 13:55:55 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ECU access

http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/caps.htm

here is the ECM capacitor replacement link ...

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius [SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 12:23 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: ECU access
>
> My instructions show how to remove it but not open it up, etc.
>
> http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius5/j5-2-ecmremoval.htm
>
> Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "glynn birds" <glynn_birds@hotmail.com>
> To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 9:49 AM
> Subject: Team3S: ECU access
>
> Hi, I've seen somewhere a step by step guide for removing the ecu.
> Anybody know of the link?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Glynn
> 1994 GTO Automatic

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 12:15:09 -0800
From: Michael Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Re: Team3S: oil filters

At 11:27 AM 1/15/02 , you wrote:

>I personally will never use Fram again after the turbo in my old Mazda
>failed because of a clogged oil return line. (So that's my recommendation)

I'm wondering about the FRAM oil filter issue. I bought my '91 VR4 from the
original owner last February and have continued using the oil and filters
he used. I believe the filter is the filter is the FRAM double guard with
teflon. The oil was Penzoil PZL-Turbo which is hard to find now. I think I
have one FRAM filter left and about 16 qts of oil.

From the oil threads I'm thinking that switching to Mobil 1 Tri-synthetic
may be a good move. I'm wondering about the filter. I think I've seen
several people pan the FRAM filter. I'm curious as to what the issues are.

Team3S is a great resource. I've appreciated following the threads.

- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Gerhard     1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 14:40:44 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil filters

I have always used Mitsu oil filters. I was under the impression they
include a check valve that keeps oil from draining down into the filter
after you shut off the engine, although I have never disassembled one to see
if that is true. I have a freshly removed filter in the garage from last
weekend - maybe I should get out the old hacksaw ...

> From the oil threads I'm thinking that switching to Mobil 1 Tri-synthetic
>
> may be a good move. I'm wondering about the filter. I think I've seen
> several people pan the FRAM filter. I'm curious as to what the issues are.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 14:50:50 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil filters

> I have always used Mitsu oil filters. I was under the
> impression they include a check valve that keeps oil from
> draining down into the filter after you shut off the engine,
> although I have never disassembled one to see if that is
> true. I have a freshly removed filter in the garage from
> last weekend - maybe I should get out the old hacksaw ...

Actually that check valve is a pressure release valve so that if you neglect
to change the filter and it starts getting clogged at least you'll have
sufficient oil pressure in the motor to prevent bearing damage. Of course
at that point the oil isn't being filtered nearly as well as it should be,
so other problems are possible.

Since the oil filter hangs down vertically, it is always full of oil so no
more can really drain down into it.

If you are really anal about your car, you can prefill a new oil filter when
you change it to help get the new oil flowing through the system sooner.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 14:54:24 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil filters

Oh, my bad! Thanks for correcting my "lore"!

> Actually that check valve is a pressure release valve so that if you
> neglect
> to change the filter and it starts getting clogged at least you'll have
> sufficient oil pressure in the motor to prevent bearing damage. Of course
> at that point the oil isn't being filtered nearly as well as it should be,
> so other problems are possible.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 13:59:37 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil filters

> I didn't dig $18 for the Mitsu filter.

Dang, where are you buying your filters? WOW, is that $US? I get mine from
Norco or other dealers that offer discounts and they're usually between
$4.50 and $5.00. Granted, I usually buy 5 or so at a time, but still...

- --Erik

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 14:09:28 -0800
From: "ek2mfg" <ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil filters

Oil yesterday, Oil filters today.....when we get into Air pressure
for the tires tomorrow let me know.

BTW, what brand of wiper fluid should I use? or will that be for
Thursday ???

bobk.

- ---- Original Message ----
From: erik.gross@intel.com
To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil filters
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 13:59:37 -0800

>> I didn't dig $18 for the Mitsu filter.
>
>Dang, where are you buying your filters? WOW, is that $US? I get
>mine from
>Norco or other dealers that offer discounts and they're usually
>between
>$4.50 and $5.00. Granted, I usually buy 5 or so at a time, but
>still...
>
>--Erik

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 15:59:14 -0700
From: "Thomas Jeys" <tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: Air Fuel Ratio Gauge Installation

Greetings all,
I am installing an Air/Fuel Ratio gauge in my 92' VR-4 and need a good
place from which to tap off the O2 sensor signal. So far I have found that
pin 56 on the ECU will work. Any other suggestions before I go clipping
wires on my ECU? This is the Gauge I got
http://www.nordskogperformance.com/m9200.html. This is where I found out
about pin 56 http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/0-frames.htm, thanks
Jeff!!

- ---Also I sent this out about a month ago just as AT&T went down, so I never
got any of the responses. If anyone did send something or had something to
say about it, I'd still like to hear your input (mostly on the part about
the cruse control).

So there I was drivin' my happy self down the road at about 45mph when I
hear a loud pop, and my engine starts running like a 3 legged horse. I'm
thinking "Oh $#%^, there went my,... sumthin'". So I pull over to discover
that my Y pipe had blow off. I had to drive it home like that so I could
get a screw driver and fix it. I had no idea how gutless our cars are
without turbos. I couldn't get it above 30! Anyhow, I'm gonna use some RTV
on it so see if that keeps it on. Anyone have any experience fixin' this
problem? Will RTV work?

Secondly, I seem to remember a few weeks back a thread about cruse control
not working above 90. Well, I can vouch that mine works at up to 130
(didn't try it any higher, but maybe more). Is this unusual?

- ---just a note; the RTV did not work, I ended up epoxying a piece of exhaust
pipe to the output side of the Y pipe and using a BIG piece of radiator hose
as a coupling. So now it is held on by 2 hose clamps. (Thank God I took
Advanced Jury Rigging in college)

T.J.
1992 3000GT VR-4
tj@jeys.net

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:04:52 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil filters

Bob,

   I live where it freezes so I buy the yellow-green bottle that does
not freeze (until about 20 below zero F I think) and that gives the
winter wiper blades time to clear the mess. Put a gallon in the front
and the rest in the rear tank and I'm good for a good portion of the
winter or two weeks depending on how bad the weather is.
   As for air pressure for tires, I try to find the gas stations that
have it free. I hate paying $0.50 for 2 minutes of free stuff that they
are compressing. That air pump can't be that much money since it is not
all shiny and new. Let me know how much you are buying your gallon of
air for and I might be willing to sell some to you.
   For last season's track events I bought a 10-gallon air tank from
Sears (about $50 or so) and fill it up for free and have 90 pounds of
air at home for those times I don't feel like going to town just for
air. 100 fill-ups of air (usually $0.50 each) and it has paid for
itself.
   Oh ... or did you mean what pressure of air? That is a very personal
feeling but one that Bob Forrest had a good note on. Fill them up to
recommended, drive your favorite roads, return. Fill up 5 psi higher,
repeat. Fill up another 5 psi higher, repeat. Eventually you will find
what works for your roads whether it is highway/city, country/highway,
high speed, etc. You can also chalk or use shoe whitening polish to dab
the sidewalls (where the tread shoulders are) like AutoX and Road racers
and then you won't have to guess about if it was correct ... it will
show you the correct pressure.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
Prestone windshield washer fluid
Mother Nature brand air
Bosch wiper blades on stock wiper arm

- -----Original Message-----
From: ek2mfg
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 17:09

Oil yesterday, Oil filters today.....when we get into Air pressure
for the tires tomorrow let me know.

BTW, what brand of wiper fluid should I use? or will that be for
Thursday ???

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 15:18:38 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: oil filters

There are two valves for the oil --- one is a bypass valve [ in the cars block
assembly ] which does what Matt says, if the filter fails, it allows oil to
feed unfiltered into the engine.

In some, but not all filters there is a check valve in the filter that
prevents the oil from draining out of the filter when the engine is off. In
the case of our cars this is a moot point since the filter is mostly vertical.
Unless, as I mentioned about a month ago, you have your car upside down
for some reason. While this is normally a bad thing it does make changing
the filter easier, in addition if left in this configuration the oil will not
drain out if you have the aforementioned check valve. This is not
recommended.

        Jim Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jannusch, Matt <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>

> > I have always used Mitsu oil filters. I was under the
> > impression they include a check valve that keeps oil from
> > draining down into the filter after you shut off the engine,
> > although I have never disassembled one to see if that is
> > true. I have a freshly removed filter in the garage from
> > last weekend - maybe I should get out the old hacksaw ...
>
> Actually that check valve is a pressure release valve so that if you neglect
> to change the filter and it starts getting clogged at least you'll have
> sufficient oil pressure in the motor to prevent bearing damage. Of course
> at that point the oil isn't being filtered nearly as well as it should be,
> so other problems are possible.
>
> Since the oil filter hangs down vertically, it is always full of oil so no
> more can really drain down into it.
>
> If you are really anal about your car, you can prefill a new oil filter when
> you change it to help get the new oil flowing through the system sooner.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 17:54:22 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil filters

> There are two valves for the oil --- one is a bypass
> valve [ in the cars block assembly ] which does what
> Matt says, if the filter fails, it allows oil to
> feed unfiltered into the engine.

Actually the pressure bypass valve is inside the OEM Mitsu filter. There's
yet another "bypass valve" which is part of the oil pump assembly (on turbo
cars only) which sends oil through the oil cooler mounted behind the
driver's side intercooler when the oil temperature gets hot enough. During
warmup the oil isn't sent through the cooler.

At least if I understood it correctly...

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:35:53 -0500
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@3kgt.com>
Subject: Team3S: HKS BOV

Okay... my last post on this foolish BOV issue. I installed an HKS
BOV a few days ago and forgot to plug the electronic connector
back into the MAF. The check engine light went on/ stayed on. I
took the car about 100 feet down the road and it was making some
weird high pitched noises. I brought it back into the garage and
replaced the original Mitsu BOV. No problems, all seemed well

Today I re-installed the HKS unit and everything seems peachy. No
check engine light... no screeching noise. I DO notice however that
there's an occasionaly fairly loud clanking sound coming from what
seems like the rear turbo. Could I have damaged the turbo????

I reinstalled the stock BOV and the noise is still there but seems to
quiet down a bit when the car warms up. I don't know how you guys
do it... This is nerver wracking shit... (oy!)

Car is a '96 VR4, BTW....

Thanx again for your patience...

- -Gil

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:01:48 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: oil filters

>> I have always used Mitsu oil filters. I was under the
>> impression they include a check valve that keeps oil from
>> draining down into the filter after you shut off the engine,
>> although I have never disassembled one to see if that is
>> true. I have a freshly removed filter in the garage from
>> last weekend - maybe I should get out the old hacksaw ...

- -------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are dozens of filters on the market that use a check
valve. The issue of quality comes down to construction,
filter media type and filtering capability.

- - tds

http://www.brightok.net/~tds

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:08:18 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: oil filters

- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 2:18 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: oil filters

>At 11:27 AM 1/15/02 , you wrote:
>
>>I personally will never use Fram again after the turbo in my old Mazda
>>failed because of a clogged oil return line. (So that's my recommendation)
>
>I'm wondering about the FRAM oil filter issue. I bought my '91 VR4 from the
>original owner last February and have continued using the oil and filters
>he used. I believe the filter is the filter is the FRAM double guard with
>teflon. The oil was Penzoil PZL-Turbo which is hard to find now. I think I
>have one FRAM filter left and about 16 qts of oil.
>
> From the oil threads I'm thinking that switching to Mobil 1 Tri-synthetic
>may be a good move. I'm wondering about the filter. I think I've seen
>several people pan the FRAM filter. I'm curious as to what the issues are.
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Most of the Fram filters are very poorly made. They
use cardboard etc. If you do a seach on oil filter tests
you will find some good tests where various brand
filters are cut apart, the media is tested etc. with pics.

You will find that some "name brands" are really
made by the same company. (especially by Champion)

Fram is one of - if not the worst filter available.

- - tds

http://www.brightok.net/~tds

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 17:13:59 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: oil filters

I just took a look at the CD manual and it looks like there are valves everywhere.

There is a releif valve at the oil pump which I assume regulates pressure.

There is an oil cooler bypass valve [ turbo only ] which regulates oil temp by
opening and closing based on oil temp, like a thermostat.

There is the filter check valve which as mentioned prevents oil from
draining out of the filter and there is a filter bypass valve internal to the filter
which opens if the filter is clogged [ I thought this valve was part of the oil pump].

    Jim Berry
====================================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jannusch, Matt <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: 'Jim Berry' <fastmax@home.com>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 3:54 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil filters

> > There are two valves for the oil --- one is a bypass
> > valve [ in the cars block assembly ] which does what
> > Matt says, if the filter fails, it allows oil to
> > feed unfiltered into the engine.
>
> Actually the pressure bypass valve is inside the OEM Mitsu filter. There's
> yet another "bypass valve" which is part of the oil pump assembly (on turbo
> cars only) which sends oil through the oil cooler mounted behind the
> driver's side intercooler when the oil temperature gets hot enough. During
> warmup the oil isn't sent through the cooler.
>
> At least if I understood it correctly...
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:14:43 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: oil filters

All it took to convince me to use Mitsu filters for the rest of my days was
to walk into Wayzata Mitsubishi in MPLS, where they had a display set up
with 3-4 different filters cut in half. The difference in the filter media
was remarkable. Of course this was years before a filter was even an itch
in the K&N CEO's wallet, and long before Mobil1 had one on the market. I
would like to see a cut comparison between those 2 and Mitsu.

Wayne

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 17:34:38 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: oil filters

For you search engine impaired folks.

More than you ever wanted to know about the construction of various filters.

http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

        Jim Berry

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 20:31:08 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: oil filters

- -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: oil filters

>All it took to convince me to use Mitsu filters for the rest of my days was
>to walk into Wayzata Mitsubishi in MPLS, where they had a display set up
>with 3-4 different filters cut in half. The difference in the filter media
>was remarkable. Of course this was years before a filter was even an itch
>in the K&N CEO's wallet, and long before Mobil1 had one on the market. I
>would like to see a cut comparison between those 2 and Mitsu.
>
>Wayne

- -------------------------------------------------------------------------

I can save you a little bit time.

The K&N and the Mobil 1 filters are said
to be one in the same.

- - tds

http://www.brightok.net/~tds

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:13:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: oil filters

The only commend I have here..is theres nothing that says any particular
brand filter has any resemblance today to what it looked like internally a
year ago even.

Major brands dont even have brand loyalty in thier own designs.

On Tue, 15 Jan 2002, Wayne wrote:

> All it took to convince me to use Mitsu filters for the rest of my days was
> to walk into Wayzata Mitsubishi in MPLS, where they had a display set up
> with 3-4 different filters cut in half. The difference in the filter media
> was remarkable. Of course this was years before a filter was even an itch
> in the K&N CEO's wallet, and long before Mobil1 had one on the market. I
> would like to see a cut comparison between those 2 and Mitsu.
>
> Wayne

- ---
Geoff Mohler

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 22:38:29 -0500
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@3kgt.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: HKS BOV

Figured out the noise.... Boost solenoid. (phew!!!)
Thanx for the help guys... I'll sleep better tonight.
- -Gil

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@3kgt.com>
To: <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 7:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: HKS BOV

> Okay... my last post on this foolish BOV issue. I installed an HKS
> BOV a few days ago and forgot to plug the electronic connector
> back into the MAF. The check engine light went on/ stayed on. I
> took the car about 100 feet down the road and it was making some
> weird high pitched noises. I brought it back into the garage and
> replaced the original Mitsu BOV. No problems, all seemed well
>
> Today I re-installed the HKS unit and everything seems peachy. No
> check engine light... no screeching noise. I DO notice however that
> there's an occasionaly fairly loud clanking sound coming from what
> seems like the rear turbo. Could I have damaged the turbo????
>
> I reinstalled the stock BOV and the noise is still there but seems to
> quiet down a bit when the car warms up. I don't know how you guys
> do it... This is nerver wracking shit... (oy!)
>
> Car is a '96 VR4, BTW....
>
> Thanx again for your patience...
>
> -Gil

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 08:13:52 -0500
From: Ed Leung <eleung@summitracing.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil filters

Hi-
I'm a new member and probably "behind the curve" in terms of my knowledge
of these cars. I purchased a 91 Stealth ES 5-speed back in October. My
question concerns reference you made to the oil cooler. Being that my car
is naturally aspirated, does it not have an oil cooler? And if so, should I
be filling the engine with less oil? I've been putting in 5 quarts, but now
I'm wondering whether I should be putting 4 or 4 1/2. My car seems to have
the "lifter-tick" that I noticed is one of the most common topics of
discussion. I'm aware of the superceded adjuster and the ATF procedure, but
I just wanted to establish what is correct fill volume to eliminate the
possibility of the crank whipping air into the oil. Experience tells me
that a dipstick is not always a perfect standard of measure. Thanks.

Ed Leung
Summit Racing Equipment
(330) 630-0270 ext. 308

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry [SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 8:14 PM
To: Jannusch, Matt; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: oil filters

I just took a look at the CD manual and it looks like there are valves
everywhere.

There is a releif valve at the oil pump which I assume regulates pressure.

There is an oil cooler bypass valve [ turbo only ] which regulates oil temp
by
opening and closing based on oil temp, like a thermostat.

There is the filter check valve which as mentioned prevents oil from
draining out of the filter and there is a filter bypass valve internal to
the filter
which opens if the filter is clogged [ I thought this valve was part of the
oil pump].

    Jim Berry
====================================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jannusch, Matt <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: 'Jim Berry' <fastmax@home.com>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 3:54 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil filters

> > There are two valves for the oil --- one is a bypass
> > valve [ in the cars block assembly ] which does what
> > Matt says, if the filter fails, it allows oil to
> > feed unfiltered into the engine.
>
> Actually the pressure bypass valve is inside the OEM Mitsu filter.
There's
> yet another "bypass valve" which is part of the oil pump assembly (on
turbo
> cars only) which sends oil through the oil cooler mounted behind the
> driver's side intercooler when the oil temperature gets hot enough.
During
> warmup the oil isn't sent through the cooler.
>
> At least if I understood it correctly...
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 08:12:22 -0600
From: "Brad Younkman" <byounkman@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Hesitation

I'm having a problem with my car. The engine hesitates when up above about
2500rpm. I hooked up my timing gun and revved the engine to see this. At
idle everything was fine but once I started into higher rpm's the engine
would cut out just for a brief second but it would do this every few
seconds. Could this be the ignition coil going bad or something else doing
this? If it is the coil, what should I replace it with or what should I
check. Thanks for the help.

Brad
91 Stealth RT TT