Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, January 11
2002 Volume 01 : Number
723
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:43:12 -0500
From: "Bill vP" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Second
Intake/ Fuel Comuter
I think what Roger meant was "What do you think he
would tell you."
We all know of the hoods that were always "just around
the corner"
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: "'Roger
Gerl'" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>;
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 10, 2002 7:13 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now ->
Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split
Second Intake/ Fuel
Comuter
> "Oh yes, ... do you really think he'd tell you
?"
>
> Roger,
>
> He has been telling anyone who will
listen.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 5:06
PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
Split
> Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter
>
>
> > What is
"knock control"? Do you guys mean ignition retard if knock is
> >
detected?
>
> Yes, this would be the definition, although we'd be
hapyy if we only could
> read or even log knock with such "standalone"
ECUs.
>
> > Many good turbo ECU's also reduce boost if knock is
detected. I do not
> > think any of the ECU's that we are talking about
are capable of this,
> > although a guy at AEM told me that his unit
could be set up to do this.
>
> Yes, but again with their own knock
sensor. 99% not compatible with the
> Mitsu one. Maybe it could be
positioned in the same bracket but then it
must
> be tuned in to the
engines characteristic. Hey this is a job engineers are
> doing on an
engine dyno with analysing histograms and voice records on
> several parts
on the engine.
>
> > Brian from GT-Pro told me that they are
almost ready to come out with a
> > plug and play ECU which is not
Autronic.
>
> Oh yes, ... do you really think he'd tell you
?
>
> > This is very cool for us to have
> > several new
plug and play 3S ECU's coming out all at once because it
seems
> >
like even Autronic SM2 is lacking some necessary features.
>
> Some
are good designs and lack of software others have a great
software
but
> the hardware is limited. The AEM soudns not bad ... but
then the question
> rises again : does it work in our cars too
?
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 19:50:23
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Now -> High RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split
Second
Torque is what makes the car go --- RPM is good but for a street
car you're
generally limited to stock gear ratios so you can't really take
advantage of
the big rpm numbers. You're going to suffer down at the lower
rpm unless
you can greatly expand the width of the torque curve --- that's
not usually
the case, the torque curve typically just moves up the rpm
range.
F1 cars have tons of HP but it's at 14K to 18K rpm, if you can
design your
own gear ratios that's great, you can use all the HP. If you
can't design your
own you have to arrange engine output to match your gear
ratios.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Zobel, Kurt <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
> Almost
forgot to reply to this.
> All things being equal, the higher the rpm the
better.
>
> More power. You may lose power once past peak rpm, but
you are going to a higher gear,
> so wheel HP is reduced by the gear
ratio. The longer you can stay in a lower gear the
> better. It is only
by concession that we have more than 1 gear.
> It is
smoother.
> It allows more gear overlap, for flexibility on
specific corner needs.
> Less shifting, maybe skip a shift in some
cases. or at least delay a shift
> until OUT of a corner vs IN the
corner.
> It provides better throttle response and manipulation.
> It provides better traction, more even rather than pulsed power.
> It makes more noise!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:54:22
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Se cond
Intake/ Fuel Comuter
> I think what Roger meant was "What do you
think
> he would tell you."
> We all know of the hoods that were
always "just
> around the corner"
I agree with that... If we
were to wait for things that might be versus
things that actually are - we
might be waiting a very long time. On various
3/S related parts that
has been the case.
We can either hope that a magic solution comes along
that solves all our
problems and makes the world a better place - or we can
try to implement
some of the solutions that already exist. I for one
can't afford to wait
any longer for someone to figure out (and prove) a full
standalone solution
for my car. I need something today (well, probably
a month or so from now
when the car is actually operational again).
I
think I heard about GT Pro's ECU being "just around the corner" about a
year
or so ago. I sincerely hope the thing is great when it comes out, but
I
don't have the luxury of waiting for it to become reality... The
driving
and racing season is pretty short sometimes up here in the Great
White North
of Minnesota (although this year is an exception).
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:14:56
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Anyone know how the bearing coding works?
So during my rebuild I
picked the Pink coded main bearings to put in (not
realizing that the
originals were color coded also - and were coded
Green,
aparantly).
John Christian shared a couple pages from the
Rebuild Manaual (that weren't
in my PDF version of the manual) and there is a
reference chart that's
something like this:
-
-------------------------------------------------
Crankshaft
Journal |Cyl.
Block|Crank
|
|Brng. Bore|Bearing
|
|Diameter | |
-
-------------------------------------------------
Classifi-|ID mark|Outer
dia.|ID Mark |ID Color|
Cation |(serv.
|mm(in)
|
|
|
|part)
|
|
| |
-
-------------------------------------------------
1 |Yellow |59.990- |
I | Pink
|
| |59.996 |
II | Red
|
| |(2.3618- |
III | Green
|
| |2.3620)
|
| |
-
-------------------------------------------------
2 |None |59.984- |
I | Red
|
| |59.990 |
II | Green
|
| |(2.3616- |
III | Black
|
| |2.3618)
|
| |
-
-------------------------------------------------
3 |White |59.978- |
I | Green
|
| |59.984 |
II | Black
|
| |(2.3613- |
III | Brown
|
| |2.3616)
|
| |
-
-------------------------------------------------
It further explains
that on the block there are a set of marks near the
tranny mount
flange. Something like this:
xxxxxxxx - Cylinder block bore size mark
xxxxxxxx - """" (Reference)
xxxxxxxxx - Cyl. Block bearing bore dia. ID
On my motor it
has marks like this:
ZZT
TTT
Z
ZZZZ
So what do my marks mean,
exactly? I can't figure out how it refers to the
green main bearings
that were originally installed in my motor by
Mitsubishi. How does
"ZZZZ" become Classification 1, ID mark III? I
don't
understand.
I figured out that the Pink main bearings are
apparantly the largest bearing
shell available, just by seeing that the
colors move towards larger bore
sizes in the chart (ie: Green is a III in
Class 1, then II in Class II
bores, etc). All my oil clearances were
within tolerances with the Pink
bearings though, even though they are
technically two sizes tighter than the
Green ones.
Is that okay, or do
I need to pull the crank back out and install Green
bearings, even though the
clearances checked out? If I try to interpret the
chart, I come to the
conclusion that the Pinks should be about .001-.002mm
tighter than the
original Greens.
Tolerances are 0.020 - 0.050mm and my clearances were
all almost exactly
0.032mm measured with Plastigage.
Anyone done this
before? This information is on page 11E-157 of the Engine
Rebuild
manual.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:06:49
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erikpetterson@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Front axel boot is torn, Fixxable???
Hello this is my first
posting to the list. I just bought a 1991 Dodge
Stealth about a week
ago. Most everything on the car is in great condition.
I took it for a
brake inspection at a Midas shop and they found a tear
in the Outer Axel Boot
on the drivers side of the car. I have downloaded
the CAPS program and
it is part number 32014R (labeled "C" in the
illustration) I am
wondering if I can put some grease in there and then
seal up the boot with
something. The tear is about 3 inches long and it
runs along one of the
bends, (i.e. it doesn't cut accross the bands, it runs
parralel along the top
of one). Any other suggestions on this matter or any
help would be
greatly appreciated.
Also while at Midas, they took the cover off of the
brake fluid reservoir
and now the brakes seem to squeek a lot. Since
they took it off and put it
back on, should I bleed the brake
system?
Thanks...
Erik --- '91 Stealth
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 23:21:00
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front axel boot is torn, Fixxable???
>I took it for a
brake inspection at a Midas shop and they found a tear
>in the Outer Axel
Boot on the drivers side of the car.
You gotta get it fixed. If the
grease gets out and dirt gets in, the half
shaft will go south quickly.
Replacing the boot is a pain but not
particularly difficult. Even Midas
should be able to handle it.
>
>Also while at Midas, they took
the cover off of the brake fluid reservoir
>and now the brakes seem to
squeek a lot. Since they took it off and put it
>back on, should I
bleed the brake system?
Nah. Only if you feel a soft pedal or you're
going racin'. The squeak is
something else -- maybe dirt or grease on the
pads from Midas handling them
with greasy fingers.
Rich/slow old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:17:46
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front axel boot is torn, Fixxable???
I once patched a ripped CV
boot with a bicycle tire patch. This was in an
emergency situation, and i
had it properly repaired at my earliest
inconvenience. The problem with
simply patching the hole is you have no way
to replace the grease that has
spewed out while the boot was ripped. It's
only a matter of time before you
need to replace the whole joint or axle
due to lack of
lubrication.
Wayne
At 10:06 PM 1/10/02 -0700, Erik Petterson
wrote:
>Hello this is my first posting to the list. I just bought a
1991 Dodge
>Stealth about a week ago. Most everything on the car is
in great condition.
>I took it for a brake inspection at a Midas shop and
they found a tear
>in the Outer Axel Boot on the drivers side of the
car. I have downloaded
>the CAPS program and it is part number
32014R (labeled "C" in the
>illustration) I am wondering if I can
put some grease in there and then
>seal up the boot with something.
The tear is about 3 inches long and it
>runs along one of the bends, (i.e.
it doesn't cut accross the bands, it runs
>parralel along the top of
one). Any other suggestions on this matter or any
>help would be
greatly appreciated.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 00:30:11
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Second Intake/
Fuel Comuter
> > Many good turbo ECU's also reduce boost if knock
is detected. I do not
> > think any of the ECU's that we are talking
about are capable of this,
> > although a guy at AEM told me that his
unit could be set up to do this.
>
>Yes, but again with their own
knock sensor. 99% not compatible with the
>Mitsu one. Maybe it could be
positioned in the same bracket but then it must
>be tuned in to the
engines characteristic. Hey this is a job engineers are
>doing on an
engine dyno with analysing histograms and voice records on
>several parts
on the engine.
Guys, for those of you who are curious, I would recommend
downloading AEM
EMS software. It is almost functional and is really cool. It
has knock
sensor calibration screen, which means it could be set up to for
any knock
sensor including stock. My buddy told me that the way to calibrate
a knock
sensor would be to run a car from low rpm to redline when you know
you do
not have knock and record sensor noise. Then if knock appears it will
be
above that baseline noise. Anything below it is not knock. Sounds too
simple to be true but I think he knows what he is talking about and I tent
to buy into this too. Check out the AEM EMS knock calibration screen, it is
self-explanatory.
> > Brian from GT-Pro told me that they are
almost ready to come out with a
> > plug and play ECU which is not
Autronic.
>
>Oh yes, ... do you really think he'd tell you
?
More info from Brian:
>The base unit is made by Link
Electro Systems of New Zeland, and is being
>made specifically for
us through our own R&D as well as being a "private
>lable". We
are doing the development, and should be finished next
week.
>yes it will have additional drivers for WI, NOS and
multiple coils, will
>have datalogging on board, be windows based
software, program by PC and or
>hand held programmer.
>
> This is very cool for us to have
> > several new plug and play 3S
ECU's coming out all at once because it seems
> > like even Autronic
SM2 is lacking some necessary features.
>
>Some are good designs and
lack of software others have a great software but
>the hardware is
limited. The AEM soudns not bad ... but then the question
>rises again :
does it work in our cars too ?
If someone shows me that their ECU works
on our cars without glitches I
would still be skeptical about their ability
to control boost. Hey,
companies like Blitz, HKS, and Apexi make their
living on making responsive
and stable boost controllers. Many of them are
self-learning and have tons
of good stuff in them. But ECU companies
consider boost control an option
and I bet their boost control is not nearly
as advanced. I think you almost
certainly have to buy a waste gate solenoid
valve with any of the ECU's.
But I can always use a separate boost
controller instead.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 00:42:22
-0600
From: Fred Martinez <
frekiy@mac.com>
Subject: Team3S: Motor
oil type
Greetings, I've just joined the wonderful world of 3kS owners
and I'm
loving it. I purchased a '93 base Stealth and I'm attempting
to learn the
most about it possible. My question is of the proper oil
type. This car,
although well maintained, is high mileage 174k and is
showing some signs of
it.. I'm about to do my first oil change and have
looked through the
archives for a preferable type of oil and filter, but
have only found how
too's and the like. Any help is most
appreciated.
Thanks,
Fred
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 23:43:02
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Anyone know how the bearing coding works?
Hi Matt,
Try
cleaning up the marks on the block. My 91 block
was fairly easy to
read, but my 93 block was
dirty/rusty. I used lacquer thinner and 360
grit
sandpaper to be able to see the marks.
The marks seem to be made
with parallel bars
ie --> || || ||
||
not letters like T or Z.
What did your mains measure?? That
determines the
"Classification" in the 6G72 DOHC table. The
next
column doesn't apply cause your crank is original not
a
replacement.
Goeff Mohler suggested I use the BLUE micrometer to
get a
more accurate reading. LOL
Be of good cheer,
John
- ---
"Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
wrote:
>
So during my rebuild I picked the Pink coded main
> bearings to put in
(not
> realizing that the originals were color coded also -
> and
were coded Green,
> aparantly).
>
> John Christian shared a
couple pages from the
> Rebuild Manaual (that weren't
> in my PDF
version of the manual) and there is a
> reference chart that's
>
something like this:
>
>
-------------------------------------------------
> Crankshaft
Journal |Cyl.
Block|Crank
|
>
|Brng. Bore|Bearing
|
>
|Diameter | |
>
-------------------------------------------------
> Classifi-|ID
mark|Outer dia.|ID Mark |ID Color|
> Cation
|(serv. |mm(in)
|
|
|
> |part)
|
|
| |
>
-------------------------------------------------
>
1 |Yellow |59.990- |
I | Pink
|
>
| |59.996 |
II | Red
|
>
| |(2.3618- |
III | Green
|
>
| |2.3620)
|
| |
>
-------------------------------------------------
>
2 |None |59.984- |
I | Red
|
>
| |59.990 |
II | Green
|
>
| |(2.3616- |
III | Black
|
>
| |2.3618)
|
| |
>
-------------------------------------------------
>
3 |White |59.978- |
I | Green
|
>
| |59.984 |
II | Black
|
>
| |(2.3613- |
III | Brown
|
>
| |2.3616)
|
| |
>
-------------------------------------------------
>
>
> It
further explains that on the block there are a
> set of marks near
the
> tranny mount flange. Something like this:
>
> xxxxxxxx - Cylinder block bore size
mark
> xxxxxxxx - """"
(Reference)
>
> xxxxxxxxx - Cyl.
Block bearing bore dia. ID
>
>
> On my motor it has marks
like this:
>
>
ZZT
> TTT
>
>
Z
> ZZZZ
>
> So what do my marks mean,
exactly? I can't figure
> out how it refers to the
> green
main bearings that were originally installed
> in my motor by
>
Mitsubishi. How does "ZZZZ" become Classification
> 1, ID mark
III? I don't
> understand.
>
> I figured out that the
Pink main bearings are
> apparantly the largest bearing
> shell
available, just by seeing that the colors move
> towards larger
bore
> sizes in the chart (ie: Green is a III in Class 1,
> then II
in Class II
> bores, etc). All my oil clearances were within
>
tolerances with the Pink
> bearings though, even though they are
technically
> two sizes tighter than the
> Green ones.
>
> Is that okay, or do I need to pull the crank back
> out and
install Green
> bearings, even though the clearances checked out?
>
If I try to interpret the
> chart, I come to the conclusion that the
Pinks
> should be about .001-.002mm
> tighter than the original
Greens.
>
> Tolerances are 0.020 - 0.050mm and my
clearances
> were all almost exactly
> 0.032mm measured with
Plastigage.
>
> Anyone done this before? This information is
on
> page 11E-157 of the Engine
> Rebuild manual.
>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 03:48:37
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Motor oil type
Fred,
I saw somewhere about the "flip"
style of oil plug but have not
installed that yet on mine. If you can
find it (on someone's web page)
then it seems well worth it.
Otherwise
most people just stick with Full synthetic or a synthetic
blend of oil (Mobil
1 is a very common brand on this list as is the Red
Line brand ... the latter
of which can be purchased from our own Admin,
Geoff Mohler from
www.speedtoys.com I believe).
Get the
stock filter as I have not seen anything in this line for a
while and it
works for so many of us there is no need changing that yet.
How long has
it been since the 60/120/150/180k tune-up? You might want
to check
something general like hoses, gaskets, leaks, etc. while you
are under the
car. Welcome to the world.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
5W/30 Mobil 1
synthetic in for the winter months
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Fred Martinez
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 01:42
Greetings,
I've just joined the wonderful world of 3kS owners and I'm
loving it.
I purchased a '93 base Stealth and I'm attempting to learn
the
most about
it possible. My question is of the proper oil type. This
car,
although well maintained, is high mileage 174k and is showing some
signs
of
it.. I'm about to do my first oil change and have looked through
the
archives for a preferable type of oil and filter, but have only
found
how
too's and the like. Any help is most
appreciated.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 03:57:44
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Motor oil type
Fred,
Just remember that the common
"ticking" sound might be when the oil is
too low and not just the
lifters.
Remember to make sure you do not overfill the oil (like some oil
places
do even though we TELL them to use 4 quarts they go and put in a full
5
... silly folk).
And remember to put the plug back in the bottom and
the cap back on the
top. I'm sure there are some good stories on here
about stuff like
that.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Fred Martinez
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002
01:42
Greetings, I've just joined the wonderful world of 3kS owners
and I'm
loving it. I purchased a '93 base Stealth and I'm attempting
to learn
the
most about it possible. My question is of the proper
oil type. This
car,
although well maintained, is high mileage 174k and is
showing some signs
of
it.. I'm about to do my first oil change and have
looked through the
archives for a preferable type of oil and filter, but
have only found
how
too's and the like. Any help is most
appreciated.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:13:01
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: OT : Must see and hear (fun)
Turn your sound on and you can hear
a Formula 1 racing !!!
http://www.very.de/Very
funny
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 05:30:09
-0500
From: "Bill vP" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: OT : Must see and hear (fun)
hmm, is this a VlRUS, or
not? Anybody check it out?
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, January 11, 2002 5:13 AM
Subject: Team3S: OT : Must see and hear
(fun)
> Turn your sound on and you can hear a Formula 1 racing
!!!
>
>
http://www.very.de/>
> Very
funny
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 02:05:43
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@mvplabels.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Motor oil type
Welcome, Fred! The stock filter is the best - (it's
a bit cheaper at Mitsu
dealers, BTW). Mobil-1 10W30 is preferred by
most of us; (it's on sale at
Costco lately: 6 Qts for $22). Change oil
every 3k miles or so, and change
the filter every other oil change.
Since you're a "Stealth newbie", check
the FAQ Index for quick'n'easy
"how-to" mods for a few extra HP: "NT Mods -
Removing the Resonator"
(Modifications Section) (free) and replacing the
stock airbox with a K&N
FIPK (~$150) "Air Filters - Stock vs Aftermarket"
(Maintenance Section) will
net you an additional 10 HP or so...
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htmBest,
Forrest
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Martinez" <
frekiy@mac.com>
> Greetings, I've just
joined the wonderful world of 3kS owners and I'm
loving it. I purchased
a '93 base Stealth and I'm attempting to learn the
most about it
possible. My question is of the proper oil type. This car,
although
well maintained, is high mileage 174k and is showing some signs of
it.. I'm
about to do my first oil change and have looked through the
archives for a
preferable type of oil and filter, but have only found how
too's and the
like. Any help is most appreciated.
> Thanks,
>
Fred
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 12:21:17
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: First Datalog
>I finally entered the datalog age this
evening. With an ambient temp. of
>approx. 40F and my boost set to
18psi, I recorded a few 2nd to 6500 and 3rd
>to 6500rpm
runs.
> Fortunately, after reviewing the log, I only got 1
knock
>sum response. It took me awile to find it, and I was
beginning to think my
>sensor wasn't functioning. I finally located
one peek with max value of 17.
Well, at this temperature the intake temp
is so low and air that dense than
usually I would have expected a little
knock around 5800. Do the test again
at 60°F and you'll find a little more,
then at 68°F as this is where the
engines ECU often are calibrated to. At
80°F knock will start to appear
heavily and above 90°F knock will become
much higher.
>I'm trying to recall what most have decided is the max
safe short term knock
>sum (I already know Roger...it's zero) for those of
us living on the edge.
The edge is around a knock sum of 11. Depending on
ambient temp, humidity
and barometric pressure you will sooner or later hit
this barrier. At
around 11 t o16 the ECU starts to retard the timing to cure
the knock. If
retarding doesn't cure knock it even retards the timing more.
Therefore it
is possible that you will see those three cases :
a)
increasing knock sum, falling timing curve (bad)
b) steady amount of knock
sum and falling timing (acceptable)
c) falling knock and rising timing
(better)
d) steady amount of knock below 11-13, rising timing
(optimal)
Enjoy
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 08:57:21
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Anyone know how the bearing coding works?
> Try cleaning
up the marks on the block. My
> 91 block was fairly easy to read,
but my 93
> block was dirty/rusty. I used lacquer thinner
>
and 360 grit sandpaper to be able to see
> the marks.
My block was
hot-tanked, so its perfectly clean. Its certainly marked with
T's and
Z's.
> What did your mains measure?? That determines
> the
"Classification" in the 6G72 DOHC table.
> The next column doesn't apply
cause your crank
> is original not a replacement.
I didn't measure
them.
> Goeff Mohler suggested I use the BLUE micrometer
> to
get a more accurate reading. LOL
Darn, I only have the Fuscia
micrometer. ;-)
I think I'll see if my local dealer has the green
main bearings on-hand. If
he does, I might as well backtrack and put
those in. Ugh.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 07:52:33
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
rebuild manual
Your post on bearing selection refers to a rebuild manual
--- it dosn't
seem to be part of the CD version nor the paper version of the
car
manual. Is there a copy of this online somewhere
???
Jim
Berry
==========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> John Christian shared a couple pages from the Rebuild Manaual (that
weren't
> in my PDF version of the manual) and there is a reference chart
that's
> something like this:
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 07:57:44
-0800
From: "Jamie Marzonie" <
jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Motor oil type
RedLine 10W40, perfect for turbo cars.. esp.
ones that have oil cooled
turbos. I try to use Amsoil filters.. but
Purolator Pure One filters are
good, but offer slightly less flow. The
K&N filters are really nice, but
don't last worth anything (high flow
design, you'll have to change this one
more often)
The RedLine oil
need not be replaced every 3k. I typically replace it every
6-7K (oil
in non-extreme duty environment is claimed to not need a full
change until
18K miles), so I just replace the filter every 3K, and whatever
oil was lost
due to the filter change.
>From: Fred Martinez <
frekiy@mac.com>
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: Motor oil type
>Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 00:42:22
-0600
>
>Greetings, I've just joined the wonderful world of 3kS
owners and I'm
>loving it. I purchased a '93 base Stealth and I'm
attempting to learn the
>most about it possible. My question is of
the proper oil type. This car,
>although well maintained, is high mileage
174k and is showing some signs of
>it.. I'm about to do my first oil
change and have looked through the
>archives for a preferable type of oil
and filter, but have only found how
>too's and the like. Any help is
most appreciated.
>Thanks,
>Fred
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:01:08
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: rebuild manual
> Your post on bearing selection refers to
a rebuild manual ---
> it dosn't seem to be part of the CD version nor
the paper
> version of the car manual. Is there a copy of this online
> somewhere ???
It isn't in Vineet's PDF version that I have
either, so the version he
scanned must be incomplete (or there's a better
version of the manual
available).
Here's the pages that John sent
me:
http://people.mn.mediaone.net/mjannusch/mainbearingchart.pdf-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 12:24:58
-0600
From: Kar-Yeong Teoh <
karyeong@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
5-30W Mobil 1
Hi,
I'm gonna change my oil and I got myself som
5-30W Mobil 1
tri-synthetic. Any reason I should only use 10-30 and not the
5-30? It's
for my 95 Stealth RT/TT
Much
appreciated.
Kar-Yeong
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 13:08:49
-0500
From: "omnitech" <
omnitech@fast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 5-30W Mobil 1
I used Mobile 1 5-30W in my 92 Stealth RT/TT, and
the engine
tapped like there was no tomorrow. I'm now using Quaker
state
10-30W Synthetic, now my engine purrs like a kitten.
>
Hi,
>
> I'm gonna change my oil and I got myself som 5-30W Mobil
1
> tri-synthetic. Any reason I should only use 10-30 and not
> the
5-30? It's
> for my 95 Stealth RT/TT
>
> Much
appreciated.
>
> Kar-Yeong
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:17:47
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Se cond Intake/
Fuel Comuter
Hoods do seem to be shipping now.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Bill vP [mailto:billvp@highstream.net]
Sent: Thursday,
January 10, 2002 8:43 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split
Second
Intake/ Fuel Comuter
I think what Roger meant was "What do you think he
would tell you."
We all know of the hoods that were always "just around
the corner"
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: "'Roger
Gerl'" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>;
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 10, 2002 7:13 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now ->
Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split
Second Intake/ Fuel
Comuter
> "Oh yes, ... do you really think he'd tell you
?"
>
> Roger,
>
> He has been telling anyone who will
listen.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 5:06
PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
Split
> Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter
>
> > What is "knock
control"? Do you guys mean ignition retard if knock is
> >
detected?
>
> Yes, this would be the definition, although we'd be
hapyy if we only could
> read or even log knock with such "standalone"
ECUs.
>
> > Many good turbo ECU's also reduce boost if knock is
detected. I do not
> > think any of the ECU's that we are talking about
are capable of this,
> > although a guy at AEM told me that his unit
could be set up to do this.
>
> Yes, but again with their own knock
sensor. 99% not compatible with the
> Mitsu one. Maybe it could be
positioned in the same bracket but then it
must
> be tuned in to the
engines characteristic. Hey this is a job engineers are
> doing on an
engine dyno with analysing histograms and voice records on
> several parts
on the engine.
>
> > Brian from GT-Pro told me that they are
almost ready to come out with a
> > plug and play ECU which is not
Autronic.
>
> Oh yes, ... do you really think he'd tell you
?
>
> > This is very cool for us to have
> > several new
plug and play 3S ECU's coming out all at once because it
seems
> >
like even Autronic SM2 is lacking some necessary features.
>
> Some
are good designs and lack of software others have a great
software
but
> the hardware is limited. The AEM soudns not bad ... but
then the question
> rises again : does it work in our cars too
?
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:21:25
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Now -> After market ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split S econd
Intake/ Fuel Comuter
You will have to buy a different boost control
solenoid with GT
Pro's ECU replacement called Pro-Link 2.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Philip V. Glazatov
[mailto:gphilip@umich.edu]
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 11:30 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split
Second
Intake/ Fuel Comuter
> > Many good turbo ECU's also reduce boost if
knock is detected. I do not
> > think any of the ECU's that we are
talking about are capable of this,
> > although a guy at AEM told me
that his unit could be set up to do this.
>
>Yes, but again with
their own knock sensor. 99% not compatible with the
>Mitsu one. Maybe it
could be positioned in the same bracket but then it
must
>be tuned in
to the engines characteristic. Hey this is a job engineers are
>doing on
an engine dyno with analysing histograms and voice records on
>several
parts on the engine.
Guys, for those of you who are curious, I would
recommend downloading AEM
EMS software. It is almost functional and is
really cool. It has knock
sensor calibration screen, which means it could be
set up to for any knock
sensor including stock. My buddy told me that the
way to calibrate a knock
sensor would be to run a car from low rpm to
redline when you know you do
not have knock and record sensor noise. Then if
knock appears it will be
above that baseline noise. Anything below it is not
knock. Sounds too
simple to be true but I think he knows what he is talking
about and I tent
to buy into this too. Check out the AEM EMS knock
calibration screen, it is
self-explanatory.
> > Brian from
GT-Pro told me that they are almost ready to come out with a
> > plug
and play ECU which is not Autronic.
>
>Oh yes, ... do you really
think he'd tell you ?
More info from Brian:
>The base unit is
made by Link Electro Systems of New Zeland, and is being
>made
specifically for us through our own R&D as well as being a
"private
>lable". We are doing the development, and should be
finished next week.
>yes it will have additional drivers for WI,
NOS and multiple coils, will
>have datalogging on board, be windows
based software, program by PC and or
>hand held
programmer.
> > This is very cool for us to have
> >
several new plug and play 3S ECU's coming out all at once because
it
seems
> > like even Autronic SM2 is lacking some necessary
features.
>
>Some are good designs and lack of software others have
a great software but
>the hardware is limited. The AEM soudns not bad ...
but then the question
>rises again : does it work in our cars too
?
If someone shows me that their ECU works on our cars without glitches I
would still be skeptical about their ability to control boost. Hey,
companies like Blitz, HKS, and Apexi make their living on making responsive
and stable boost controllers. Many of them are self-learning and have tons
of good stuff in them. But ECU companies consider boost control an option
and I bet their boost control is not nearly as advanced. I think you almost
certainly have to buy a waste gate solenoid valve with any of the ECU's.
But I can always use a separate boost controller
instead.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 13:23:46
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: Mild GT-PRO Bashing
How long did it take for those hoods
though, this ecu has been "arriving
soon" for at least 3 months+
now.........
give out "factual" information but say a release date has
not yet been
finalized. Not they will be arriving
soon.
Hey but what do I know, I am just the consumer :/
Russ
F
CT
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Floyd, Jim
[SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 1:18
PM
> To: 'Bill vP';
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
>
Split Se cond Intake/ Fuel Comuter
>
>
> Hoods do seem to be
shipping now.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill vP
[mailto:billvp@highstream.net]
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 8:43
PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
Split
> Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter
>
>
> I think what
Roger meant was "What do you think he would tell you."
>
> We all
know of the hoods that were always "just around the corner"
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
> To:
"'Roger Gerl'" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>; <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 7:13 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now
-> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split
> Second Intake/ Fuel
Comuter
>
>
> > "Oh yes, ... do you really think he'd
tell you ?"
> >
> >
> > Roger,
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 10:48:20
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: OT: Mild GT-PRO Bashing
I still have no hood.
On Fri,
11 Jan 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> How long did it take for those
hoods though, this ecu has been "arriving
> soon" for at least 3 months+
now.........
>
> give out "factual" information but say a release
date has not yet been
> finalized. Not they will be arriving
soon.
>
> Hey but what do I know, I am just the consumer :/
>
> Russ F
> CT
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Floyd, Jim [SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
>
> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 1:18 PM
> > To: 'Bill vP';
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
>
> Split Se cond Intake/ Fuel Comuter
> >
> >
> >
Hoods do seem to be shipping now.
> >
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Bill vP [mailto:billvp@highstream.net]
>
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 8:43 PM
> > To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
Split
> > Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter
> >
> >
> > I think what Roger meant was "What do you think he would tell
you."
> >
> > We all know of the hoods that were always "just
around the corner"
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From:
"Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
> > To:
"'Roger Gerl'" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>; <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 7:13 PM
> > Subject: RE: Team3S:
RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split
> > Second
Intake/ Fuel Comuter
> >
> >
> > > "Oh yes, ...
do you really think he'd tell you ?"
> > >
> > >
>
> > Roger,
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:33:24
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OT: Mild GT-PRO Bashing
Bingo.
On Fri, 11 Jan 2002,
Cody Graham wrote:
> For a car you don't have...
>
>
-Cody
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Geoff Mohler
> Sent:
Friday, January 11, 2002 12:48 PM
> To: Furman, Russell
> Cc:
'Floyd, Jim'; 'Team 3S'
> Subject: Re: Team3S: OT: Mild GT-PRO
Bashing
>
> I still have no hood.
>
> On Fri, 11 Jan
2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
>
> > How long did it take for
those hoods though, this ecu has been
> "arriving
> > soon" for
at least 3 months+ now.........
> >
> > give out "factual"
information but say a release date has not yet been
> >
finalized. Not they will be arriving soon.
> >
>
> Hey but what do I know, I am just the consumer :/
> >
>
> Russ F
> > CT
- ---
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 20:55:26
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: OT: Mild GT-PRO Bashing ADMIN REMINDER !!
Dear
Members,
Please note that we are NOT a chat board !!! Chatting
messages is not what
the list is for and therefore please send the messages
to each of the people
you want to chat with alone and not to the
list.
Thanks
Roger for the admins
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 12:05:20
-0800
From: "Pete" <
pbozanich@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Fw: Team3S: Grills
If your looking for a billet grill. TRENZ makes them
for 94-96. Contact
dcourtney@trenz.com. Tell him your part of
team3s. and Pete Bozanich said to
contact you. Check out there web site they
make some awesome billet stuff.
regards,
Pete, 91 Black VR4
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "John Christian" <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
To: <
daedel@mac.com>; <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
January 08, 2002 6:29 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Grills
> Hi
Eric,
>
> Here are pics of the screens on my cars. Pick up
some
> storm door Al screening at your local hardware store
> and
cut a piece to fit. Or you could use Stainless
> Steel
screening.
>
> Cut screen about 1 to 2 inches larger and form
it
> around the backside of the foglight/IC opening. Use
>
construction adhesive (liquid nails) to secure it in
> place. Or you
can use Al pop rivets. Make sure you
> rough up the back surface and
clean with something
> like lacquer thinner.
>
> In addition,
you could wear a bra.
>
> See you on the track sometime when I get
my engines
> fixed. )-:) Hope to make Road Atlanta March
9&10.
>
> Be of good cheer in the New Year,
>
John
>
>
> ---
daedel@mac.com wrote:
> > I bought a
set on ebay for my 94. It looks really
> > good and has little
>
> sticky pads on it to keep the grills in place. Its
> > just steel
chicken
> > mesh, but thats all thats really needed. I'll email
>
> privately with the
> > name of the seller when I find his
name.
> >
> > -David
> >
> >
> > On
Monday, January 7, 2002, at 07:15 PM, Gross, Erik
> > wrote:
>
>
> > > So is anyone making grills (stainless, painted,
or
> > otherwise protected)
> > > for
> > > the
front and side openings on our cars? As in
> > the radiator
opening,
> > > the IC
> > > openings, and the side
(mildly functionally) rear
> > brake inlets? I know
> >
> there were some for sale on 3si a while back, but
> > AFAIK, no
one is
> > > currently
> > > making them. I don't
want the fins on my new
> > side-mount intercoolers
> > >
to be
> > > bent up by rocks, so I was thinking a functional
>
> set of grills might be
> > > nice. Anyone know
where to get them? Or where I
> > can get high-quality
>
> > parts to make them?
> > >
> > > --Erik
>
> > '95 VR-4
>
> =====
> Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com> '93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
>
12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
>
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 12:12:48
-0800
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Crank re-work advice for short block
I am rebuilding my motor and
was told about a process that removes
the sharp edges on the crank and
painting it so oil flows off faster
and smoother.
My thought...and
please don't hesitate to rip me one for asking but
give me your thoughts
back.
1) re-work the crank with smoothing and radii on sharp edges
2)
heat treat to hold higher rpm loads
3) ream out oil holes for better
flow
4) powder coat everything a bearing doesn't touch
5) grind and polish
for assembly
not particularly in this order but all 5 to be
done.....
shot peen and polish flashing off of rods...re-heat treat as
well
ceramic coat forged pistons
have entire rotating assembly
balanced both individually as well as
together when all work is
done.
This is for my NOS 100 shot motor in the works as I
type.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 13:01:09
-0600
From:
overclck@ies.net (Cody
Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: OT: Mild GT-PRO Bashing
For a car you
don't have...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Geoff Mohler
Sent: Friday,
January 11, 2002 12:48 PM
To: Furman, Russell
Cc: 'Floyd, Jim'; 'Team
3S'
Subject: Re: Team3S: OT: Mild GT-PRO Bashing
I still have no
hood.
On Fri, 11 Jan 2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
> How long
did it take for those hoods though, this ecu has been
"arriving
> soon"
for at least 3 months+ now.........
>
> give out "factual"
information but say a release date has not yet been
>
finalized. Not they will be arriving soon.
>
> Hey but
what do I know, I am just the consumer :/
>
> Russ F
>
CT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 12:20:10
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
rebuild manual
Chris --- thanks for trying ---- talk to Jeff Lucius or
Bob and see if
we can post the missing info.
I'm a little confused
about the source of this part of the manual, I have
the factory manuals and
the CD version and neither of them have the
information Matt refers to. The
CD version goes up to page 11E-122
and the page Matt sent me a copy of is
11E-157. Does that mean we're
missing part of the manual or is there another
complete rebuild manual.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Rick Pierce <
piercera@pacbell.net>
To: Jim Berry
<
fastmax@home.com>
Sent: Friday,
January 11, 2002 9:13 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: rebuild manual
> Jim
- I tried dending it and it was returned (yes too large)
>
>
> If no one else comes through with the post, we can check with Bob
Forrest to
> see if Team3S can act as the middle man for it. Let me
know if there's
> something else I can do.
>
> Best,
Rick
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
> To: "Rick
Pierce" <
piercera@pacbell.net>
> Sent:
Friday, January 11, 2002 8:30 AM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: rebuild
manual
>
> > I took a quick at jeff's site and didn't see it
???
> >
> > You can try to email it to me but I think there's
a 3 meg limit on my
> emails.
> > I'd appreciate it --- I'm
starting to have the machining done on the
> block, I
> > got the
Pauter rods [ at least they look cool ] and the pistons are on the
>
way.
> >
> > My credit card is still overheated.
>
>
> > Jim
Berry
> > =============================================
>
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Rick Pierce
<
piercera@pacbell.net>
>
> To: Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
> > Sent:
Friday, January 11, 2002 8:05 AM
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: rebuild
manual
> >
> >
> > > Hey Jim - hope that engine of
yours is going well. I have the manual
> but I
> > >
forgot where I got it from - poss. Jeff Lucius site. Let me know if
you
> > > want it - 4.3 mg acrobat file and I'll e-mail it to
you.
> > >
> > > Best, Rick
> > > -----
Original Message -----
> > > From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
> > > To:
"Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>;
>
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> > Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 7:52 AM
> > > Subject:
Team3S: rebuild manual
> > >
> > >
> > >
> Your post on bearing selection refers to a rebuild manual --- it
>
dosn't
> > > > seem to be part of the CD version nor the paper
version of the car
> > > > manual. Is there a copy of this online
somewhere ???
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> Jim Berry
> > >
> ==========================================
> > > > -----
Original Message -----
> > > > From: Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
> > > To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> > >
> > > > >
> > > > > John
Christian shared a couple pages from the Rebuild Manaual (that
> > >
weren't
> > > > > in my PDF version of the manual) and there
is a reference chart
> that's
> > > > > something like
this:
> > > >
> > > > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 12:31:44
-0800
From: Rick Pierce <
piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: rebuild manual
Well Jim - I guess you have the same manual as the
one I tried to send you
(I don't have the CD), but I too did notice the page
numbering discrepancy -
did you notice it was a TSB Revision? A possible
explanation is if all the
TSB revisions are at the back of the manuals.
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
To: "Rick Pierce"
<
piercera@pacbell.net>
Cc:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, January 11, 2002 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: rebuild
manual
> Chris --- thanks for trying ---- talk to Jeff Lucius or Bob
and see if
> we can post the missing info.
>
> I'm a little
confused about the source of this part of the manual, I have
> the factory
manuals and the CD version and neither of them have the
> information Matt
refers to. The CD version goes up to page 11E-122
> and the page Matt sent
me a copy of is 11E-157. Does that mean we're
> missing part of the manual
or is there another complete rebuild
manual.
>
> Jim Berry
>
===========================================
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: Rick Pierce <
piercera@pacbell.net>
> To: Jim
Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
>
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 9:13 AM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: rebuild
manual
>
>
> > Jim - I tried dending it and it was returned
(yes too large)
> >
> >
> > If no one else comes
through with the post, we can check with Bob
Forrest to
> > see if
Team3S can act as the middle man for it. Let me know if there's
>
> something else I can do.
> >
> > Best, Rick
> >
----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
> > To: "Rick
Pierce" <
piercera@pacbell.net>
> >
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 8:30 AM
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: rebuild
manual
> >
> >
> > > I took a quick at jeff's site
and didn't see it ???
> > >
> > > You can try to email
it to me but I think there's a 3 meg limit on my
> > emails.
>
> > I'd appreciate it --- I'm starting to have the machining done on
the
> > block, I
> > > got the Pauter rods [ at least they
look cool ] and the pistons are on
the
> > way.
> >
>
> > > My credit card is still overheated.
> >
>
> > > Jim
Berry
> > > =============================================
>
> >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From:
Rick Pierce <
piercera@pacbell.net>
> >
> To: Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
> > > Sent:
Friday, January 11, 2002 8:05 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Team3S: rebuild
manual
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hey Jim - hope
that engine of yours is going well. I have the
manual
> > but
I
> > > > forgot where I got it from - poss. Jeff Lucius
site. Let me know if
you
> > > > want it - 4.3 mg
acrobat file and I'll e-mail it to you.
> > > >
> > >
> Best, Rick
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> > From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
> > > >
To: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>;
>
> <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> > > Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 7:52 AM
> > > >
Subject: Team3S: rebuild manual
> > > >
> > >
>
> > > > > Your post on bearing selection refers to a
rebuild manual --- it
> > dosn't
> > > > > seem to be
part of the CD version nor the paper version of the car
> > > >
> manual. Is there a copy of this online somewhere ???
> > > >
>
> > > > >
> > > >
> Jim Berry
> > >
> > ==========================================
> > > > >
----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: Jannusch, Matt
<
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
> > > > To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> John Christian shared a couple pages from the Rebuild
Manaual
(that
> > > > weren't
> > > > > >
in my PDF version of the manual) and there is a reference chart
> >
that's
> > > > > > something like this:
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 14:20:45
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Anti-Sway bars for the Turbo cars...
I have them
both.
They work great.
I also have strut tower braces front and
back.
They work good too.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Damon
Rachell [mailto:damonr@mefas.com]
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 2:17
PM
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
team3s@speedtoys.comSubject:
Anti-Sway bars for the Turbo cars...
I've contacted two companies who
make larger anti-sway bars for the AWD
(turbo) cars. Unfortunately, they
don't make larger bars for the NAs but
I'm working on that. The current
pricing is as follows:
Rear Bar: Includes urethane bushings and brackets.
The stock end link
bushings are used. Total bar diameter is
1".
Manufactured by Quickor Suspension
retail $189
If we get 3-12
people, the price drops to $170.
12+ and the price drops to
$151!!!
Contact John Spiva,
Quickor Suspension Co.
P.O. Box
68011
Portland, OR 97268
503-654-2175 /
www.quickor.comFront Bar: Includes
urethane midsection bushings and brackets along with
10mm male/female rod
end bearings. They are powder coated. Bar diameter
is 1.125". Significantly
greater than stock (150% stiffer).
Manufactured by Saner
Fabrication
1-2 $195.00 PLUS SHIPPING
3-9 $185.00 PLUS SHIPPING
10-16
$175.00 PLUS SHIPPING
17-25 $165.00 PLUS SHIPPING
26-35 $155.00 PLUS
SHIPPING
Contact John Carlson,
1449 SW FLOUNDER LANE
PORT ST. LUCIE, FL
34953
PH / FAX 561-873-0238
www.sanerperffab.comTo answer the
questions that I know people will ask, the purpose of
Anti-sway bars, or
commonly refered to as just sway bars, is to reduce
body roll during
turning. A stiffer bar will reduce the body roll
WITHOUT DECREASING THE RIDE
QUALITY!!! The less the body roll, the
greater the tire patch on the ground,
the greater the ultimate grip.
Want to handle like the miatas and
MR-spiders? These bars will do it!!!
Those of you who want to reduce the
understeer of the car, get only the
rear bar (car will then be very
neutral). Those who want total increase
in ultimate grip, while maintaining
the inherent understeer of the car,
get both. With both bars, the car should
be able to hold about 0.93-0.95
on street tires! That's up in the ZO6
range!!!
I would not recommend getting only the front since the
suspension will
not be tuned or matched. The car will heavily
understeer.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I'd also like
to keep a
list going so we can track the cost.
I'm in for a rear
bar.
Thanks
Damon Rachell
__________________
1992 Pearl White R/T TT
w/ GTPro GT347s, Blitz DSBC, Nippon Seki
Heads-Up Display Boost/Turbo Timer,
Eibachs, Cusco STB, Kumho Victoracer
V700s (these Mo-Fos stick like glue!),
Porterfield R4 pads and slotted
rotors all around.
1997 Black Grand Prix
GTP w/ full suspension (front & rear antisway
bars, front & rear
strut tower braces, Urothane bushings, KYB shocks)
Future mods? Duh, of
course!
'Those who say "There's no replacement for displacement" have
never been
blown in a car. I mean in a blown car.' DR
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 15:28:43
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crank re-work advice for short block
> I am rebuilding my
motor and was told about a process that
> removes the sharp edges on the
crank and painting it so oil
> flows off faster and
smoother.
Knife-edging, I would presume... You could do it -
yeah. I personally
don't think it helps all that much but if you want
to make an all-out effort
motor then why not. Balancing it might be a
little tricky, but if the shop
knows what they are doing it shouldn't be a
problem.
> 1) re-work the crank with smoothing and radii on sharp
edges
Yeah. Expensive for minimal gains, but it can be
done.
> 2) heat treat to hold higher rpm loads
Heat treating
won't really help it for higher RPM operation. The later
cranks (93+?)
are nitrided already so in essence that's already done.
> 3) ream out
oil holes for better flow
They are already pretty good in stock
form. You don't want to go too crazy
enlarging the journal holes.
The holes on my crank were chamfered from the
factory. Not much to be
done there...
> 4) powder coat everything a bearing doesn't
touch
Why? Wouldn't the powdercoating process un-heat-treat the
crank as well? I
don't know, I'm just asking. Might need to
rebalance after the
powercoating. Seems like extra work for zero
gain. Is powdercoat oil/gas
resistant?
> 5) grind and polish
for assembly
If you mean polishing the journals then yes. Depends
what you plan on
grinding.
> shot peen and polish flashing off of
rods...re-heat treat as well
Why re-heat-treat the rods? Maybe
you'd be better off starting with new
rods and just grinding off any
flashing. Polish is kinda overkill - but if
you have the time/money
then I suppose why not.
> ceramic coat forged pistons
I thought
about that, but decided against it. Not really sure why, but
I
did.
> have entire rotating assembly balanced both individually
as
> well as together when all work is done.
Pretty much required
when changing from the stock pistons. Any forged
piston is likely to be
significantly heavier than the stock ones.
> This is for my NOS 100
shot motor in the works as I type.
What else have you done to it?
Turbos/fuel/etc? Why NOS?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 13:41:38
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crank re-work advice for short block
> Knife-edging, I
would presume... You could do it - yeah. I personally
> don't
think it helps all that much but if you want to make an all-out effort
>
motor then why not. Balancing it might be a little tricky, but if the
shop
> knows what they are doing it shouldn't be a problem.
- ---
I
had two well-known rebuilders tell me it wasnt worth the $..although
some
gains can be had.
> > 3) ream out oil holes for better
flow
> factory. Not much to be done there...
- ---
Id
not. Ive seen ppl on other forums do this, and have serious
oil
pressure problems later on.
Pressure is created by resistance to
flow. Chamfer at most.
> > 4) powder coat everything a
bearing doesn't touch
>
> Why? Wouldn't the powdercoating
process un-heat-treat the crank as well? I
> don't know, I'm just
asking. Might need to rebalance after the
> powercoating.
Seems like extra work for zero gain. Is powdercoat oil/gas
>
resistant?
- ---
Dont do this inside the motor...or even
outside.
Oil is a major coolant in your motor, the rough surface in the
block aids
cooling actually, the same goes outside the motor..noneed to
insulate it.
> Pretty much required when changing from the stock
pistons. Any forged
> piston is likely to be significantly heavier
than the stock ones.
- ---
Thats a joke right? My new Celica pistons
are about 1/2 the weight of the
OEM forged pistons.
> >
This is for my NOS 100 shot motor in the works as I type.
- ---
Youre
doing all this, for only a 100 shot?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 16:50:30
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Crank re-work advice for short block
>1) re-work the crank
with smoothing and radii on sharp edges
If you wish. Might make it less rigid
but a little stronger by removing
stress concentrators.
>2) heat
treat to hold higher rpm loads
Isn't it heat treated already? I really do not
know. Heat treating will
warp it and you will have to regrind it, which won't
make it any stronger,
unless of course you have to regrind it
anyway.
>3) ream out oil holes for better flow
Oil flow it limited
by main and rod bearing clearances and not by oil feed
hole diameters. Do not
do it. Just make sure that those holes have smooth
edges where they touch
bearing shells.
>4) powder coat everything a bearing doesn't
touch
What will that do? Reduce heat transfer?
>5) grind and polish
for assembly
Good idea it the journals are worn.
I have an idea. If
you want to be creative then install squirters to shoot
oil on the pistons
from underneath to cool them. Will probably need a
high-flow or separate oil
pump for those. This will let you run a little
more boost or
NOS.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 16:03:36
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crank re-work advice for short block
> I have an idea. If
you want to be creative then install
> squirters to shoot oil on the
pistons from underneath to cool
> them. Will probably need a high-flow or
separate oil pump for
> those. This will let you run a little more boost
or NOS.
The factory turbo block already has oil sprayers. You can
replace the
sprayers though as an extra safety precaution.
(Why does
your e-mailer hose up the reply-all to the list? It puts your
e-mail
(
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com) and a
"
DoNotEmailHere@umich.edu" in
the
reply line.)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 16:08:52
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crank re-work advice for short block
>> Pretty much
required when changing from the stock pistons.
>> Any forged
piston is likely to be significantly heavier
>> than the stock
ones.
> Thats a joke right? My new Celica pistons are about 1/2
the
> weight of the OEM forged pistons.
No, it wasn't a joke on
mine. The GTPro/Ross piston design was
significantly (more than a
couple grams) heavier than the stock Mitsubishi
pistons. Other designs
may be different, but if your Celica ones were 1/2
the weight of stock I'd be
worried that they are going to be durable enough
(especially if the stockers
were already forged aluminum). Where'd all that
material get shaved
from?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 14:14:12
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crank re-work advice for short block
>
> No, it
wasn't a joke on mine. The GTPro/Ross piston design was
>
significantly (more than a couple grams) heavier than the stock
Mitsubishi
> pistons. Other designs may be different, but if your
Celica ones were 1/2
> the weight of stock I'd be worried that they are
going to be durable enough
> (especially if the stockers were already
forged aluminum). Where'd all that
> material get shaved from?
-
---
Mostly the skirts were severely shortened, and because we also moved
the
pin height up about 1/4", it was even further shortened. Then
we
installed 7MGTE cylinder squirters (higher flow) and the TTE rally
oil
pump to compensate. The pistons are a current in-use design, and
have
made over 600Hp in other cars. Im only pushing about 400crank HP
in this
motor tho. We also added an anti-detonation groove to the ring
lands as
well.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 15:07:06
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Upgraded anti-sway bars...
I've contacted two companies who make larger
anti-sway bars for the AWD
(turbo) cars. Unfortunately, they don't make
larger bars for the NAs but
I'm working on that. The current pricing is as
follows:
Rear Bar: Includes urethane bushings and brackets. The stock end
link
bushings are used. Total bar diameter is 1".
Manufactured by
Quickor Suspension
retail $189
If we get 3-12 people, the price drops to
$170.
12+ and the price drops to $151!!!
Contact John Spiva,
Quickor
Suspension Co.
P.O. Box 68011
Portland, OR 97268
503-654-2175 /
www.quickor.comFront Bar: Includes
urethane midsection bushings and brackets along with
10mm male/female rod
end bearings. They are powder coated. Bar diameter
is 1.125". Significantly
greater than stock (150% stiffer).
Manufactured by Saner
Fabrication
1-2 $195.00 PLUS SHIPPING
3-9 $185.00 PLUS SHIPPING
10-16
$175.00 PLUS SHIPPING
17-25 $165.00 PLUS SHIPPING
26-35 $155.00 PLUS
SHIPPING
Contact John Carlson,
1449 SW FLOUNDER LANE
PORT ST. LUCIE, FL
34953
PH / FAX 561-873-0238
www.sanerperffab.comTo answer the
questions that I know people will ask, the purpose of
Anti-sway bars, or
commonly refered to as just sway bars, is to reduce
body roll during
turning. A stiffer bar will reduce the body roll
WITHOUT DECREASING THE RIDE
QUALITY!!! The less the body roll, the
greater the tire patch on the ground,
the greater the ultimate grip.
Want to handle like the miatas and
MR-spiders? These bars will do it!!!
Those of you who want to reduce the
understeer of the car, get only the
rear bar (car will then be very
neutral). Those who want total increase
in ultimate grip, while maintaining
the inherent understeer of the car,
get both. With both bars, the car should
be able to hold about 0.93-0.95
on street tires! That's up in the ZO6
range!!!
I would not recommend getting only the front since the
suspension will
not be tuned or matched. The car will heavily
understeer.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I'd also like
to keep a
list going so we can track the cost.
I'm in for a rear
bar.
Thanks
Damon Rachell
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 15:22:34
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: rebuild manual
These pages are from the 1992-1996 Engine
Overhaul Manual. This is
the "third volume" in the 2-volume set of Mitsu
1992-1996 3000GT
service manuals. The '92-'96 Engine Overhaul Manual is
separate but
purchasable. Pub. No. is MSSP-201B-96. The pub. date
1999.
If a PDF copy of the 161 pages of section 11E (6G72) is
available,
maybe Team3S will host it or maybe Vinny will include it in the
next
version of Manuals on CD. This manual should be available from
the
dealer and some used book shops. I got mine from
http://www.books4cars.com/ .
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
> To: "Rick
Pierce" <
piercera@pacbell.net>
> Cc:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 1:20 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: rebuild
manual
>
>
> Chris --- thanks for trying ---- talk to Jeff
Lucius or Bob and see
> if we can post the missing info.
>
>
I'm a little confused about the source of this part of the
manual,
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 15:33:47
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Upgraded anti-sway bars
I've contacted two companies who make larger
anti-sway bars for the AWD
(turbo) cars. Unfortunately, they don't make
larger bars for the NAs but
I'm working on that. The current pricing is as
follows:
Rear Bar: Includes urethane bushings and brackets. The stock end
link
bushings are used. Total bar diameter is 1".
Manufactured by
Quickor Suspension
retail $189
If we get 3-12 people, the price drops to
$170.
12+ and the price drops to $151!!!
Contact John Spiva,
Quickor
Suspension Co.
P.O. Box 68011
Portland, OR 97268
503-654-2175 /
www.quickor.comFront Bar: Includes
urethane midsection bushings and brackets along with
10mm male/female rod end
bearings. They are powder coated. Bar diameter
is 1.125". Significantly
greater than stock (150% stiffer).
Manufactured by Saner
Fabrication
1-2 $195.00 PLUS SHIPPING
3-9 $185.00 PLUS SHIPPING
10-16
$175.00 PLUS SHIPPING
17-25 $165.00 PLUS SHIPPING
26-35 $155.00 PLUS
SHIPPING
Contact John Carlson,
1449 SW FLOUNDER LANE
PORT ST. LUCIE, FL
34953
PH / FAX 561-873-0238
www.sanerperffab.comTo answer the
questions that I know people will ask, the purpose of
Anti-sway bars, or
commonly refered to as just sway bars, is to reduce
body roll during turning.
A stiffer bar will reduce the body roll
WITHOUT DECREASING THE RIDE
QUALITY!!! The less the body roll, the
greater the tire patch on the ground,
the greater the ultimate grip.
Want to handle like the miatas and MR-spiders?
These bars will do it!!!
Those of you who want to reduce the understeer
of the car, get only the
rear bar (car will then be very neutral). Those who
want total increase
in ultimate grip, while maintaining the inherent
understeer of the car,
get both. With both bars, the car should be able to
hold about 0.93-0.95
on street tires! That's up in the ZO6 range!!!
I
would not recommend getting only the front since the suspension will
not be
tuned or matched. The car will heavily understeer.
If you have any
questions, please let me know. I'd also like to keep a
list going so we can
track the cost.
I'm in for a rear bar.
Thanks
Damon
Rachell
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 18:34:21
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Crank re-work advice for short block
At 04:03 PM 01/11/02,
Jannusch, Matt wrote:
>The factory turbo block already has oil
sprayers. You can replace the
>sprayers though as an extra safety
precaution.
Cool! Live and learn! I guess this is why our cars have
almost no oil
pressure at idle.
>(Why does your e-mailer hose up
the reply-all to the list? It puts your
>e-mail (
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com) and a "
DoNotEmailHere@umich.edu" in
the
>reply line.)
(Thank you for asking and giving me a hint too
;-) My email server at work
apparently does not know how to send emails to
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st. So
I
created a dummy forwarding address to send emails through it. But I see
you
are sending them to
team3s@team3s.com. I
will try it instead next time.)
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 15:44:51
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@mvplabels.com>
Subject: Team3S: OT:
Last Call: NASA HPDE @ Laguna Seca this weekend!!!
Last Call for 2 days
of NASA HPDE (High Performance Driving Events) this
weekend, January 12th
& 13th at Laguna Seca. This is the ONLY event being
held at LS by
NASA for the entire year! (All other HPDE's will be at
Thunderhill and
Sears Point).
This is also a family event, with provisions for tagalong
kiddies and
(schedule permitting) a Parade Lap on at least one of the days -
driving
kids around the track so they may experience what it feels like (at
low
speed, of course). If you just want to watch, it's only $5 for
parking, and
$5 if you want to join in the parade lap. If you want to
participate as a
driver, it's $249 per
day; please sign up for the event
NOW, since there are quotas for the number
of cars they'll allow. It's
at:
http://www.nasaproracing.com/nasa_event/show/?event_id=1Looks
like the weather will be great!!!
What you can bring:
Helmet for
your head if you are planning on racing or riding. If you want
to grill
stuff, bring the meats that you want to grill, buns, condiments,
salt &
pepper, etc. Please bring a small cooler and plenty of drinks
for
yourself, since it's easy to get dried out... Bring a seat if you
have one.
I've been away, so I don't have a tally of everyone who's
going, but at
least Geoff & Nissa, Bob & ET, Ann Koch are signed
on... A few others said
they will be there, but I have had email
problems from hell. MOF, contact
me privately at a new (temporary)
email:
bf@mvplabels.comSee you
there!!!
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 19:22:07
EST
From:
NETM1NDER@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Upgraded anti-sway bars...
In a message dated 1/11/02 6:04:13 PM Eastern
Standard Time,
damonr@mefas.com
writes:
<< :
damonr@mefas.com >>
:check out
tecperformance.com front strut tower brace
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 20:07:05
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Now -> High RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
Split Second
Its been done already. No virgin territory
here. Dynamic Racing sells a
high rev kit with titanium retainers for
about $500 which allows the
valvetrain to reach 8000rpm. However, power
production at that rpm limit
requires that sufficient air and fuel keep up
with the motor. People use
slightly larger intake valves, ported heads
and reground camshafts with I
believe .4" lift and 212 deg duration (I
think). I wonder if they make
titanium valves for our
cars?
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Zobel, Kurt <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
To: Todd D.Shelton
<
tds@brightok.net>
Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, January 10, 2002 9:09 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> High
RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ... was ->
GT-Pro Split
Second
>You might be a racer if..
> Your tach limit is
ALWAYS 500 rpm below your standard operating limit.
>
>Seriously, I
hope you try to check out Mitsubishi at least, and other
racers who have
tried higher rpm operations. Other than motor parts
strength, valve
clearances, belt strength and stretch, things like that need
consideration. I
don't think 7500 would be much problem, as I'm sure design
allows for that
much, but much more and you may be in fairly
virgin
territory.
>
>Go very slowly and try to log and get info
from anyone else who will
contribute. For me,
>it seems we have a lot
of valve float above 7000. I just have an NA, but
that drastic falloff in
power has kept me from trying to use much higher
rpm. I'll go to 7200-7300 in
2nd, but usually quit in 3rd at 6500-6800.
Possibly with a cam and better
valve springs higher rpm would be useful. I
certainly know I would LIKE
to have an 8000 rpm limit. It would help a bunch
at the drag strip and on
road courses. If the turbos already have much
stiffer valve trains, and
the timing belt won't jump teeth, then it is
probably
safe.
>
>Hope you get there, just don't want to see a nicely
modified 'dead' engine.
>
>Kurt
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: Todd D.Shelton [mailto:tds@brightok.net]
>Sent:
Wednesday, January 09, 2002 8:01 PM
>Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
Split
>Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>To:
'aa2345@wayne.edu' <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
>Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Date:
Wednesday, January 09, 2002 12:32 PM
>Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now ->
Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split
>Second Intake/ Fuel
Comuter
>
>>I'll probably start with piggyback to figure out how
the car reacts and
>once
>>I'm satisfied that everything is
working right and I have some baselines
to
>>go from then try the
standalone mode to increase the rev limit to maybe
>>7500-7800
RPM. The whole rotating assembly on my motor is balanced
now,
so
>>I should be able to go higher with relative safety.
If the Knock Alert
>>works well, then I might try setting the
standalone to engage as low as
>4000
>>RPM and
WOT.
>
>Matt - are you taking steps to maximize hp/torque above 7000
rpm?
>Cams/cam gears etc? Just curious since generally our torque
curve
>starts taking a dive around 6500 or so. 1st/2nd gear not so
bad but
>after that .....
>
>>It'll take some
experimenting, but I'll share my results with the List.
>
>Please
share. I would like to have more info about the world
>above 7K rpm!
[Also the PMS and other mods]
>
>-
tds
>
>http://www.brightok.net/~tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:46:24
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Motor oil type
>>>RedLine 10W40, perfect for turbo
cars.. esp. ones that have oil cooled
turbos. I try to use Amsoil
filters.. but Purolator Pure One filters are
good, but offer slightly less
flow. The K&N filters are really nice, but
don't last worth
anything (high flow design, you'll have to change this one
more
often)>>>
I must disagree slightly... Although Redline
10W30 (*not* 10W40 or higher,
which are recommended for *worn* engines to
help restore compression OR for
extremely hot environments) is an excellent
oil for our cars (as are most
synthetics), recent testing (reported last year
on this list - check the
archives) and the experiences of many of us on the
list has shown Mobil1 to
be a superior oil (albeit slightly). I don't
know if it was from Team3S
folks, but other 3S owner tests showed the stock
oil filter to be as good,
if not better, than any others. I agree that
high-flow oil filters are not
recommended, since they allow larger particles
to pass through.
>>>The RedLine oil need not be replaced every
3k. I typically replace it
every 6-7K (oil in non-extreme duty
environment is claimed to not need a
full change until 18K miles), so I just
replace the filter every 3K, and
whatever oil was lost due to the filter
change.>>>
This statement is backwards and needs
clarification-- Although standard
engines (read: Detroit Iron) do not
require (as) frequent oil changes,
higher-compression (and higher RPM)
engines like ours need more protection
from smaller particles, because of the
tight tolerances. It's probably just
a bit of overkill to change at 3k
miles, but changing oil frequently is
cheap insurance against engine
wear. But... You do NOT want to change the
filter with every oil
change. MOF, the oil filter traps smaller particles
as it 'ages', hence
the (quite universal) practice of only changing the
filter every OTHER oil
change. The filter works *better* after it catches
the larger
particles...
The correct "rule" is: Change the oil every 3k
(approximately), and change
the filter every *other* oil
change.
Best,
Forrest
-
--------------------------------
>From: Fred Martinez <
frekiy@mac.com>
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: Motor oil type
>Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 00:42:22
-0600
>
>Greetings, I've just joined the wonderful world of 3kS
owners and I'm
loving it. I purchased a '93 base Stealth and I'm
attempting to learn the
most about it possible. My question is of the
proper oil type. This car,
although well maintained, is high mileage 174k and
is showing some signs of
it.. I'm about to do my first oil change and have
looked through the
archives for a preferable type of oil and filter, but have
only found
how-to's and the like. Any help is most
appreciated.
>Thanks,
>Fred
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 20:42:12
-0500
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Motor oil type
I have seen a marked improvement with Amsoil
oil over Mobil 1. I have
seen numerous tests done by different
individuals and companies that
show that the Amsoil is a better oil. I
had a friend who used Amsoil in
his 3000gt and would send his oil for
analysis. He kept the oil in for
9000 miles and the testing company
thought that the oil *may* have a
1000 miles at most on it. My friend
called them to verify the results
and they were astounded to hear that it had
been used for 9000 miles. I
am by no means trying to start a flame war
between Mobil 1 and Amsoil,
but instead trying to let everyone know that
there are oils out there
that have shown to be better then Mobil 1. I
did see a test between
Mobil 1 and Red Line and Mobil 1 was found to be
superior.
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest
[mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 2:46 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc: Jamie
Marzonie; Fred Martinez
Subject: Re: Team3S: Motor oil
type
>>>RedLine 10W40, perfect for turbo cars.. esp. ones
that have oil
cooled
turbos. I try to use Amsoil filters.. but
Purolator Pure One filters
are
good, but offer slightly less flow.
The K&N filters are really nice,
but
don't last worth anything (high
flow design, you'll have to change this
one
more
often)>>>
I must disagree slightly... Although Redline
10W30 (*not* 10W40 or
higher,
which are recommended for *worn* engines to
help restore compression OR
for
extremely hot environments) is an
excellent oil for our cars (as are
most
synthetics), recent testing
(reported last year on this list - check the
archives) and the experiences of
many of us on the list has shown Mobil1
to
be a superior oil (albeit
slightly). I don't know if it was from Team3S
folks, but other 3S owner
tests showed the stock oil filter to be as
good,
if not better, than any
others. I agree that high-flow oil filters are
not
recommended,
since they allow larger particles to pass through.
>>>The
RedLine oil need not be replaced every 3k. I typically
replace
it
every 6-7K (oil in non-extreme duty environment is claimed to
not need a
full change until 18K miles), so I just replace the filter every
3K, and
whatever oil was lost due to the filter
change.>>>
This statement is backwards and needs
clarification-- Although standard
engines (read: Detroit Iron) do not
require (as) frequent oil changes,
higher-compression (and higher RPM)
engines like ours need more
protection
from smaller particles, because of
the tight tolerances. It's probably
just
a bit of overkill to change
at 3k miles, but changing oil frequently is
cheap insurance against engine
wear. But... You do NOT want to change
the
filter with every
oil change. MOF, the oil filter traps smaller
particles
as it
'ages', hence the (quite universal) practice of only changing the
filter
every OTHER oil change. The filter works *better* after
it
catches
the larger particles...
The correct "rule" is:
Change the oil every 3k (approximately), and
change
the filter every
*other* oil change.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 17:49:02
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Crank re-work advice for short block
I don't know what oil
pressure is at idle (I just have the stock
gauge with no numbers on it), but
I don't think the oil jets used for
cooling the pistons (turbo model only)
are causing our low idle oil
pressure because the valve is closed (or should
be) below 28 psi
(according to STIM p. 9-5).
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- ---
"Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu> wrote:
> At
04:03 PM 01/11/02, Jannusch, Matt wrote:
> > The factory turbo block
already has oil sprayers. You can
> > replace the sprayers though
as an extra safety precaution.
>
> Cool! Live and learn! I guess
this is why our cars have almost no
> oil pressure at
idle.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 21:30:49
-0500
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Motor oil type
Here is on comparison
http://www.knowyouroil.com/dyno.htm<
http://www.knowyouroil.com/dyno.htm>
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest
[mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 2:46 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc: Jamie
Marzonie; Fred Martinez
Subject: Re: Team3S: Motor oil
type
>>>RedLine 10W40, perfect for turbo cars.. esp. ones
that have oil
cooled
turbos. I try to use Amsoil filters.. but
Purolator Pure One filters
are
good, but offer slightly less flow.
The K&N filters are really nice,
but
don't last worth anything (high
flow design, you'll have to change this
one
more
often)>>>
I must disagree slightly... Although Redline
10W30 (*not* 10W40 or
higher,
which are recommended for *worn* engines to
help restore compression OR
for
extremely hot environments) is an
excellent oil for our cars (as are
most
synthetics), recent testing
(reported last year on this list - check the
archives) and the experiences of
many of us on the list has shown Mobil1
to
be a superior oil (albeit
slightly). I don't know if it was from Team3S
folks, but other 3S owner
tests showed the stock oil filter to be as
good,
if not better, than any
others. I agree that high-flow oil filters are
not
recommended,
since they allow larger particles to pass through.
>>>The
RedLine oil need not be replaced every 3k. I typically
replace
it
every 6-7K (oil in non-extreme duty environment is claimed to
not need a
full change until 18K miles), so I just replace the filter every
3K, and
whatever oil was lost due to the filter
change.>>>
This statement is backwards and needs
clarification-- Although standard
engines (read: Detroit Iron) do not
require (as) frequent oil changes,
higher-compression (and higher RPM)
engines like ours need more
protection
from smaller particles, because of
the tight tolerances. It's probably
just
a bit of overkill to change
at 3k miles, but changing oil frequently is
cheap insurance against engine
wear. But... You do NOT want to change
the
filter with every
oil change. MOF, the oil filter traps smaller
particles
as it
'ages', hence the (quite universal) practice of only changing the
filter
every OTHER oil change. The filter works *better* after
it
catches
the larger particles...
The correct "rule" is:
Change the oil every 3k (approximately), and
change
the filter every
*other* oil change.
Best,
Forrest
-
--------------------------------
>From: Fred Martinez <
frekiy@mac.com>
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: Motor oil type
>Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 00:42:22
-0600
>
>Greetings, I've just joined the wonderful world of 3kS
owners and I'm
loving it. I purchased a '93 base Stealth and I'm
attempting to learn
the
most about it possible. My question is of
the proper oil type. This
car,
although well maintained, is high mileage
174k and is showing some signs
of
it.. I'm about to do my first oil change
and have looked through the
archives for a preferable type of oil and filter,
but have only found
how-to's and the like. Any help is most
appreciated.
>Thanks,
>Fred
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 21:40:06
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Crank re-work advice for short block
May I ask what is
STIM?
I looked in the manual and it says that oil pressure at curb idle
speed kPa
(psi) [Conditions: oil temperature is 75 to 90°C (167 to 194°F)]
is 80 KPa
(11.4 psi) or more.
Philip
At 07:49 PM 01/11/02,
Jeff Lucius wrote:
>I don't know what oil pressure is at idle (I just have
the stock
>gauge with no numbers on it), but I don't think the oil jets
used for
>cooling the pistons (turbo model only) are causing our low idle
oil
>pressure because the valve is closed (or should be) below 28
psi
>(according to STIM p. 9-5).
>
>Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/>
>---
"Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu> wrote:
> > At
04:03 PM 01/11/02, Jannusch, Matt wrote:
> > > The factory turbo
block already has oil sprayers. You can
> > > replace the
sprayers though as an extra safety precaution.
> >
> > Cool!
Live and learn! I guess this is why our cars have almost no
> > oil
pressure at idle.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 19:02:50
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@mvplabels.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Crank re-work advice for short block
> May I ask what is STIM?
-
---------------->
Jeff Lucius' Stealth Technical Information Manual
1991, (very rare and quite
outstanding!),available here at Team3S and on
Jeff's website. It's at:
www.Team3S.com/STIM91/STIM91.htmAlso,
*please* Philip, change your email settings - you are using
Cyrillic
alphabet, which screws up our digests and archives (and is against
the
rules). Plain text only,
please...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 22:18:44
-0500
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@3kgt.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch
I just bought a '96 VR4... I'vef noticed over the past several
days
that it's nearly impossible to shift when the car is cold. It
takes
around 3-4 minutes for it to warm up enough to shift
properly.
Tonight I noticed a "THUNK" sound when I depressed the
clutch
when in gear, preparatory to shifting... When the car warmed
up..
the noise disappeared. I'm concerned this might be a throw
out
bearing issue... Any ideas?
Thanx...
- -Gil
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 20:35:15
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erikpetterson@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front axel boot is torn, Fixxable???
Ok one more
question:
Will just replacing the boot fix the problem with the grease lost
already?
The hole is big enough where I could just stick grease in there by
hand, but
I wouldn't know how much to put on it... The Midas shop wants
to charge
like $500 to replace it, they said you have to replace that entire
side of
the axel. Also at the Midas they wrote the width of the rotors
on the
rotors themselves with a permanent marker...this may sound stupid, but
will
that affect the brakes at all, would that cause them to squeek?
They seem
to squeek when I drive real slow, like through a parking lot, but
as soon as
I press the brakes they stop squeeking and just work
normal.
(sorry if my questions seem dumb, but this is my first car
so......)
Thanks,
Erik --- '91 Stealth
> >I took it for a
brake inspection at a Midas shop and they found a tear
> >in the Outer
Axel Boot on the drivers side of the car.
>
> > You gotta get it
fixed. If the grease gets out and dirt gets in, the
half
> shaft will
go south quickly. Replacing the boot is a pain but not
> particularly
difficult. Even Midas should be able to handle it.
> >
> >Also
while at Midas, they took the cover off of the brake fluid reservoir
>
>and now the brakes seem to squeek a lot. Since they took it off and
put
it
> >back on, should I bleed the brake system?
>
>
Nah. Only if you feel a soft pedal or you're going racin'. The squeak is
>
something else -- maybe dirt or grease on the pads from Midas
handling
them
> with greasy fingers.
>
> Rich/slow old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 20:45:56
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erikpetterson@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front axel boot is torn, Fixxable???
Ok one more
question:
Will just replacing the boot fix the problem with the grease
lost already?
The hole is big enough where I could just stick grease in
there by hand,
but
I wouldn't know how much to put on it...
The Midas shop wants to charge
like $500 to replace it, they said you
have to replace that entire side of
the axel. Also at the Midas
they wrote the width of the rotors on the
rotors themselves with a
permanent marker...this may sound stupid, but will
that affect the
brakes at all, would that cause them to squeek? They seem
to
squeek when I drive real slow, like through a parking lot, but as
soon
as
I press the brakes they stop squeeking and just work
normal.
(sorry if my questions seem dumb, but this is my first car
so......)
Thanks,
Erik --- '91 Stealth
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#723
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