Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Thursday, January 10 2002  Volume 01 : Number 722




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 21:40:01 -0500
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@3kgt.com>
Subject: Team3S: Akimoto Vacuum Hoses

This might be a stupid question... but I was installing a set of red Akimoto
vacuum lines on my car tonight and noted that the I.D. of the vacuum lines
are MUCH smaller than the stock lines.  Should this be a concern?  Or do
I just worry too much?

Thanx...
- -G



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:00:52 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: 'aa2345@wayne.edu' <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 12:32 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split
Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter


>
>I'll probably start with piggyback to figure out how the car reacts and
once
>I'm satisfied that everything is working right and I have some baselines to
>go from then try the standalone mode to increase the rev limit to maybe
>7500-7800 RPM.  The whole rotating assembly on my motor is balanced now, so
>I should be able to go higher with relative safety.  If the Knock Alert
>works well, then I might try setting the standalone to engage as low as
4000
>RPM and WOT.

Matt - are you taking steps to maximize hp/torque above 7000 rpm?
Cams/cam gears etc?  Just curious since generally our torque curve
starts taking a dive around 6500 or so.  1st/2nd gear not so bad but
after that .....


>
>It'll take some experimenting, but I'll share my results with the List.

Please share.  I would like to have more info about the world
above 7K rpm! [Also the PMS and other mods]


- - tds

http://www.brightok.net/~tds



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:06:26 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aftermarket ECU

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 1:03 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aftermarket ECU


>The latest version of TMO software includes boost pressure logging.
>
- --------------------------------------------------------------

If I remember correctly you have to add an additional sensor?
(maybe that was for EGT?)  Have you tried either of these?
If so - how did it go and what sensors, connection location etc?


Thanks,

Todd

http://www.brightok.net/~tds



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:18:41 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Mitsu announced last week....

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jamie Marzonie <jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 1:04 PM
Subject: Team3S: New Mitsu announced last week....


>in January 2003... the 300GT will officially be a waste of money!
>
>US Model Lancer Evolution will hit showrooms in January 2003.  With over
>250hp stock, and 100's of pounds lighter than a 3000GT (not to mention
>betterhandling, cheaper available modifications, and ease to work on).
>
>This of course does mean that STi will have a WRX Scooby on the way as
well!
>  On top  of it all... Dodge announces the Neon SRT-4... I really need more
>money for 2003!!

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -----------------------

Sport Compact recently had an extensive writeup on ver VI and version VII
showing the differences and feautures.  Seems nice enough - light, nimble
and sedanish.  I'm not seeing the "threat".  Maybe if you pour enough mods
into one it would be fun but it would still not be an S/3K.  My motorbuilder
has
cash in hand and will probably be the first one in the Dallas area to own
one.
I figure maybe 1 hour after leaving the showroom floor he will be modding
it. :)
His computer guy got "access" to a Japanese site and found out we (the US)
still aren't getting everything the Japanese market is on this car .....
I'm sure he'll "make up" for it.

- -tds

http://www.brightok.net/~tds




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:21:44 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Mitsu announced last week....

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 1:20 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: New Mitsu announced last week....



>
>I'll wait for the next-generation 3000GT.  Rumored to be a 450HP twin turbo
>V8 and AWD.

Oh my gosh!  Just think what we could do with that ......
hehe ....  Any rumor on displacement and drivetrain?
Move over Lotus!


- - tds

http://www.brightok.net/~tds




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:31:46 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Se cond Intake/Fuel Comuter

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jamie Marzonie <jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 2:50 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Se
cond Intake/Fuel Comuter


>The Motec units are very user friendly, just make a wireing harness adaptor
>and you're good to go.  Program the ECU and then test it.. if you don't
like
>it and want to play around more, you can real time it, or throw the stock
>back in while you change the variables at your own time.
>

"Play around" would be the key phrase here.
I don't know about the Motec on S/3Ks but my motorbuilder uses one
one his DSM (Talon)  It didn't look like much fun watching him
drive/stumble up to the shop one cool/colder morning and watch him
load map after map from a laptop in an attempt just to get his car to
idle ...... He left the Haltec for this?!  I guess if you have a lot of
extra
time to "play around" each time the ambient temp changes from the
last time you "played around" it wouldn't be so bad?


- - tds

http://www.brightok.net/~tds



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:40:14 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: Akimoto Vacuum Hoses

- -----Original Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton <tds@brightok.net>
To: Gil Gomes <gil@3kgt.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 10:39 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Akimoto Vacuum Hoses


>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gil Gomes <gil@3kgt.com>
>To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Date: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 8:47 PM
>Subject: Team3S: Akimoto Vacuum Hoses
>
>
>>
>>This might be a stupid question... but I was installing a set of red
>Akimoto
>>vacuum lines on my car tonight and noted that the I.D. of the vacuum lines
>>are MUCH smaller than the stock lines.  Should this be a concern?  Or do
>>I just worry too much?
>>
>>Thanx...
>>-G
>
>I wouldn't think so as long as they aren't significantly smaller on
>the larger vac lines?   Were you able to buy the Akimoto brand
>hoses in a single size only or did you have to buy a "variety pack"
>of different sizes.  If so - where and what was the largest size they
>have?  (The thick walls are a must with high vac applications)
>
>Thanks,
>
>tds
>
>http://www.brightok.net/~tds
>
>
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 22:44:37 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Sell it or keep it?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike <mike21b@dejazzd.com>
To: 3sTeam3S <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Monday, January 07, 2002 9:33 PM
Subject: Team3S: Sell it or keep it?


>(My first post here)
>
>A few years ago, I bought my 92 RT/TT. Searching for a car that I'd
>usually be alone in, I  was actually looking at the AWD Diamond Star
>triplets and fell in love with the Stealth after driving it.
>
>http://home.dejazzd.com/mike21b/Pictures.htm
>
>Whoever had it before me thrashed it thoroughly, all 4 wheels were bent
>and the tires had been patched so many times they looked like they
>should be on the Beverly Hillbillies' truck.
>
>So, I rounded up a set of 97 VR4 wheels and added Michelin XGT-Z4s (***
>where the heck can you find these for $125 each??? ***) and the rest has
>been smooth sailing since.
>
>I never regretted getting the car. Now, 100,000 miles later (155k on the
>car) I need to decide whether to keep or get rid of it. I rarely drive
>it but love it anyway. My daily driver is a 97 Taurus SHO.
>
>The Stealth needs:
>
>--- New tranny and transfer case
>
>--- 18" VR4 wheels rebuilt (except that I only have 3 that are
>rebuildable)
>(Note to all: Don't drive car with 40 series tires after dark in PA from
>February to March. Potholes move around at that time of year!!)
>
>--- Front end work - probably struts, bearings, and steering components.
>It knocks and jiggles around on highway bumps.
>
>I know the approximate cost of the above, but finding VR4 Chrome wheels
>is next to impossible and Kormex is the only transmission shop that I
>know. I'll probably be taking a $4000 car and putting $5000 into it.
>Appearance wise, the car is in great condition.
>
>Looking for suggestions from anyone on this list.
>
>Mike
>


You could try a used tranny and buy some Enkei RP
wheels which are lighter and only a little over $200 each.
Don't put the old girl out of her misery!  Some kid will
probably wrap it around a tree ....



- - tds

http://www.brightok.net/~tds




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 23:06:01 -0600
From: "xwing" <xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Autronic Computer Problems

The Autronic computer does not work on 3S cars EASILY.
My friend bought one, was told he'd have ALL the EXACT instructions on how
to wire it to a 3000VR4; and a baseline program to start the car and start
tuning.
He got an Autronic with GENERIC instructions, NOTHING specific to 3000GT's;
and a startup program from a Mitsu Montero V6 NONturbo that uses a different
cam/crank sensor setup!  So, it does NOT understand where the crankshaft is!

Suffice to say, the car has been sitting NOT running for a couple of months
now.  We did get a backfire once.  Joy.

There is a member of 3S community now with the "plug n play" Autronic, who
says he has some "spark problem" that I suspect is the same as my
friend's...that the Autronic is not TRULY set up to "read" the stock
sensors, specifically the  4-bladed CAM ANGLE and 3-bladed CRANK ANGLE
SENSORS...so computer is not "synchronized" with the crank/which cylinder is
at top dead center firing.  I bet Mikael changed his cam angle sensor to 1
blade, for instance; but there certainly are NO such instructions from
Autronic's USA distributor in Kentucky.  A very nice guy, but he oversold
how much experience they had with OUR cars.
This "minor detail" is why I've never jumped in on getting an aftermarket
computer that I like the features of (I am not big on Haltech, TECII for
various reasons.  They can make good horsepower, but not do some things I
might want.)
Jack T.

From: "Mihai Raicu" <mraicu@wayne.edu>
> Another alternative to an aftermarket ECU is the Autronics SM2 ECU.
> This was developed by Ray Hall from Australia.
> (http://www.turbofast.com.au/autronic/sm2ecu.html)
> Mikael Kenson has this installed on his car.  I haven't seen a post from
> him in a long time.  Maybe he can let us know how it works.  I just sent
> an e-mail to Ray Hall about the knock functionality on the SM2.  I'll
> let you know what he says.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 23:20:11 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Se cond Intake/ Fuel Comuter

> Matt - are you taking steps to maximize hp/torque above 7000
> rpm? Cams/cam gears etc?  Just curious since generally our
> torque curve starts taking a dive around 6500 or so.
> 1st/2nd gear not so bad but after that .....

My car was still pulling strong to redline before I blew it up, so really it
depends on how it reacts once I get it all put back together.  I'm not
necessarily looking to dragrace it more than a couple more times (mostly to
just set a new Spyder record) and then quit and let it be a really quick
summer daily driver.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 23:25:46 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Se cond Intake/Fuel Comuter

>> The Motec units are very user friendly, just make a wireing harness
>> adaptor and you're good to go.  Program the ECU and then test it.. if
>> you don't like it and want to play around more, you can real time
>> it, or throw the stock back in while you change the variables at
>> your own time.

> "Play around" would be the key phrase here.
> I don't know about the Motec on S/3Ks but my motorbuilder uses
> one one his DSM (Talon)  It didn't look like much fun watching
> him drive/stumble up to the shop one cool/colder morning and
> watch him load map after map from a laptop in an attempt just
> to get his car to idle ...... He left the Haltec for this?!
> I guess if you have a lot of extra time to "play around" each
> time the ambient temp changes from the last time you "played
> around" it wouldn't be so bad?

Not trying to be mean to Jamie (well, maybe a little), but I'll trust the
opinions/experiences of someone who actually has one and uses it over
someone who is considering maybe using it on a completely different car than
ours.  That's good information, Todd.

I'd heard similar things about the Motec before (maybe from Jack?) and it
sounds like some of those issues might still be around.

I still don't feel bad about spending $1500 on the PMS.  I may feel
differently after I use it for a while, but at least it is custom-made for
the 3/S so it has a better chance of doing what I need with a minimum of
hassle.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: 10 Jan 2002 04:54:51 -0800
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: CAS repalcement

Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 17:19:19 -0800 (PST)
From: jim dewbre <ltjdew@athlonoc.com>
Jim Dewbre:

That dealer don't know sh!t.  He is looking at instructions to repalce a 2nd genreration crank angle sensor on the crankshaft, your car is a 1st gen with CAS on the head.

The Crank angle sensor replacement on a 1st gen is a 1/2 hour job at most.  It is the small can bolted to the passenger side of the rear head.

In the picture below it is the CAN under the left clip that holds 3 spark plug wires together.

http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v3/1/49/81/24214981iZXKzBsdrE_ph.jpg

Instructions to replace:

Remove boost hose ,you know the one that blows off at high boost levels.

Unbolt the CAS front the rear head, carefully remove CAS, make a note of which way the notch in the camshaft goes into the CAS, Make sure you line the new CAS the same way.

Bolt on the new CAS just tight enough so you can barely adjust it. Don't worry about timing yet, the car will start with timing completly off(I know from experience), just don't drive it this way.

Put boost hose back on and then check timing. Make sure you ground the timing terminal (to prevent computer from advancing ignition timing) only when car is off.  Once timing is set tighten up bolts.

P.S.  Make sure your CAS is bad, check the service manual, I have seen several people paying dealers to replace this only to find it is not the real problem.  Your dealer doesn't seem to bright anyways.

John Monnin
1991 VR-4
4-bolt main conversion see webpage for details
http://hometown.aol.com/johnmonnin/index.html

Original message below:
Subject: Team3S: crank angle sensor replacement
 
>I just found out that the crank angle sensor is out >on my 91 stealth rt/tt is this
>something I can replace or would it be better to let >my dealor replace it i have
>the manuals. they want to charge me about 300.00 >labor to replace it saying it calls
>for 5 hrs. I havent looked at the manuals yet but >they say you have to remove the
>timing belt dont see why when its on the other side >of the engine.
 
thanks, Jim
 


Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: 10 Jan 2002 05:06:48 -0800
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org

Charles, sorry the CAPs didn't work for you so far of the people that bought CAPS from me the sucess rate has been only been about 50%

A guy going by Kalmathpro on 3si boards claims he can repair most ECUs for $100. He claimed he can check the ECU too in another thread I can't find. I do not know anyone who has used him yet but you might want to email him.  Please let me know if you try this.  See thread below

http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=47086&highlight=ecu+repair

If you get a repaired ECU check the vendor to see if they actually repair your ECU or just send you another one.  I have heard a few horror stories of people getting a completely wrong ECU sent to them that the vendor swears is supposed to be compatable.  I checked caps and found at least 10 different part numbers for ECUs on 3000GTs, I will list them all on my website eventually

John Monnin
1991 VR-4
http://hometown.aol.com/johnmonnin/19ECURepair1.html
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=2f10e3a299042ad69054b478a00861ae9&threadid=47505

>Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 08:13:21 -0600 
>From: "Willis, Charles E." ><cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Ignition problems
 
>The board was in good visual condition after the cap >replacement, except for
>my lousy soldering job.  No bridges, no breaks.  I am >thinking there is
>another component failure like a voltage regulator.


Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 09:17:13 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aftermarket Radiators for Ist gen DSMs?

Hey Rich, You know Fluidyne has a direct application for our cars (they two
models depending on what year 3S you have)   Just as a FYI

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rich Fowler [SMTP:richfowler2@home.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 9:52 PM
> To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Aftermarket Radiators for Ist gen DSMs?
>
> Has anyone tried to fit a first gen dsm radiator to a first gen 3s?  The
> measurements look very similar and more aftermarket options are available
> for the dsm (fluidyne for one).  This seems like a fairly strightforward
> modification if the in/out and mounting surfaces are similar enough.  Any
> thoughts?
>
> Rich F
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 06:21:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aftermarket ECU

No, I have not tried this yet. The DSM crowd recommends the
following.
=======================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle" <blakhole@netset.com>
To: "TMO Datalogger Users List" <tmo-dlog@dsm.org>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: TMO-DLOG: datalogging boost

For my Isuzu business I carry the GM 3-bar MAPs for $70+shipping. 0v
(vac)-5v (boost), -30"Hg-29.4 psi. It's not the most linear sensor
but it does the trick and is inexpensive. RTP.

Kyle
BlackHole Performance
http://blackholeperformance.homestead.com
=======================================================

Besides the sensor we will also need to tap into the correct wire. I
really have no idea which wire in our harness is for the California
EGR temp sensor (not used on Federal vehicles). I suppose we could
just run the MAP sensor wire directly to pin 53 on the OBDI '91-'93
ECM connector.

ECM pin assignments - all years:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-2-ecu94.htm

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
To: <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aftermarket ECU

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 1:03 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aftermarket ECU

>The latest version of TMO software includes boost pressure logging.
>
- --------------------------------------------------------------
If I remember correctly you have to add an additional sensor?
(maybe that was for EGT?)  Have you tried either of these?
If so - how did it go and what sensors, connection location etc?

Thanks,

Todd
http://www.brightok.net/~tds


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***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 09:32:47 -0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter

Matt,

Here is the question I asked Ray Hall about his Autronics SM2.  Can
someone decipher the answer?  I have a feeling this goes along with what
Jack T. said in his e-mail earlier yesterday.

QUESTION:
>Does your SM2 ECU have a "knock control unit" yet?  If I buy it, it
will be >used on a 94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo or a 95 Mitsubishi
3000GT VR4. 
>
>Both these cars are equipped with a factory knock sensor.  Will your
unit >be able to read this, or do you have a separate knock sensor?

ANSWER FROM RAY HALL:
>The SM2 does not have knock control.
>
>The SM2 will read the standard Mitsubishi trigger setup directly. You
will >need to replace the existing ignition module with one or more
Bosch 008 >ignition modules or a multi channel CDI.
>
>Ray Hall.

- -MIHAI RAICU-



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 09:27:06 -0600
From: overclck@ies.net (Cody Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter

I got a little more detailed answer, although somewhat different...


Hello Cody,
 
We have a dealer looking into fitting the Mitsubishi EVO6 PnP board into
the 3000GT. We do not know at the moment if it is possible but will know
in the next few months.
 
The SMC and SM2 model ECU's can be fitted to the 3000GT now. Both ECU
support the Mitsubishi trigger setup and will directly read the signals
into the ECU.
 
The only other item required is a multi channel CDI. The Autronic CD can
be used.
 
None of the Autronic product has knock control.
 
 
Ray Hall.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Mihai Raicu
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 8:33 AM
To: 'Jannusch, Matt'; aa2345@wayne.edu
Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split
Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter

Matt,

Here is the question I asked Ray Hall about his Autronics SM2.  Can
someone decipher the answer?  I have a feeling this goes along with what
Jack T. said in his e-mail earlier yesterday.

QUESTION:
>Does your SM2 ECU have a "knock control unit" yet?  If I buy it, it
will be >used on a 94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo or a 95 Mitsubishi
3000GT VR4. 
>
>Both these cars are equipped with a factory knock sensor.  Will your
unit >be able to read this, or do you have a separate knock sensor?

ANSWER FROM RAY HALL:
>The SM2 does not have knock control.
>
>The SM2 will read the standard Mitsubishi trigger setup directly. You
will >need to replace the existing ignition module with one or more
Bosch 008 >ignition modules or a multi channel CDI.
>
>Ray Hall.

- -MIHAI RAICU-



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 11:02:38 -0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter

Cody,

Can anyone tell me what a "multi channel CDI" is?

- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 08:22:59 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter

I would assume it to be a capacitive discharge ignition with multiple outputs
to replace our coil packs --- three outputs in our case.

        Jim Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mihai Raicu <mraicu@wayne.edu>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 8:02 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter


> Cody,
>
> Can anyone tell me what a "multi channel CDI" is?
>
> -MIHAI-
> 95 Red VR4
>
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:33:59 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Se cond Intake/ Fuel Comuter

Hey Jim, if it is replacing our coil packs then we actually need 6 outputs
(unless we are hooking up our plug wires to something other than the OEM
coil packs)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Berry [SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 11:23 AM
> To: aa2345@wayne.edu; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
> Split Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter
>
> I would assume it to be a capacitive discharge ignition with multiple
> outputs
> to replace our coil packs --- three outputs in our case.
>
>         Jim Berry
> ===============================================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mihai Raicu <mraicu@wayne.edu>
> To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 8:02 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split
> Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter
>
>
> > Cody,
> >
> > Can anyone tell me what a "multi channel CDI" is?
> >
> > -MIHAI-
> > 95 Red VR4
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 11:38:02 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Se cond Intake/ Fuel Comuter

> Hey Jim, if it is replacing our coil packs then we actually
> need 6 outputs (unless we are hooking up our plug wires to
> something other than the OEM coil packs)

Stock is a waste-spark system, so I think you meant your last line to be the
opposite.  3 outputs if you were using a stock-like system with stock coil
packs or 6 outputs if using individual coils per cylinder.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:43:20 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Se cond Intake/ Fuel Computer

That is what I meant Matt, thanks for helping me to clarify, if were are
going to be pulling/replacing ignition components no sense in doing 1/2 half
the job.  Especially since our cars seem to have spark blow out problems at
the higher boost/cfm levels we try and run.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch, Matt [SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 12:38 PM
> To: Furman, Russell
> Cc: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
> Split Se cond Intake/ Fuel Comuter
>
> > Hey Jim, if it is replacing our coil packs then we actually
> > need 6 outputs (unless we are hooking up our plug wires to
> > something other than the OEM coil packs)
>
> Stock is a waste-spark system, so I think you meant your last line to be
> the
> opposite.  3 outputs if you were using a stock-like system with stock coil
> packs or 6 outputs if using individual coils per cylinder.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 11:15:12 -0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: Team3S: 3 gauge pod - pillar mount

> Read this thread. Good group buy. Only 5 to go since I was # 15.
> Order one  : )
>

> http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57341&perpage=15&page
> number=1

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:17:40 -0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Anybody want to gather for some racin'?

Hi Rich,

Putnam or Gingerman would be more in the middle.

MidOhio is a fantastic track, but may be a far trip
for you MidWesterners.

Ohama is over 900 Miles from PGH.


Hope to have one of my cars running for this season.

Be of good cheer,
John


 
- --- Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net> wrote:
> Some of us are kicking around the idea of a group
> grope at an open track
> driving event at  Mid America Motorplex near Omaha.
> It's in the SW corner
> of Iowa.
>
> See http://www.midamericamotorplex.com
>
> We figure this track would be in easy reach of 3Sers
> from Mnpls (Curt &
> Oskar?) and Milwaukee (SJ?), plus Chicago, St Louis,
> and other Midwest
> points.
>
> The last time we did this in Topeka at Heartland
> Park, we had five cars,
> terrorized the M3s and 911s, and had a great time.
>
> This is not exactly a "gathering," with all its
> assorted festivities: just
> a bunch of 3Kers attending the same event, pitting
> together, and supporting
> each other mechanically. Last time, we shared brake
> fluid, pads, jacks,
> impact wrenches, torque wrenches, mechanical
> expertise, brake bleeders, and
> Chuck Willis even loaned Jim Floyd his car to use
> when Jim's broke under
> the weight of his 1,000 W stereo (or something like
> that...maybe it was a
> front end bushing).
>
> We'll just tag onto somebody else's event, so nobody
> has to be an
> "organizer." Also, if you say you'll go and don't
> show up, it's no big deal.
>
> All that said, how many folks would be interested in
> attending an event in
> Iowa?  (Iowa is not the end of the world, but you
> can see it from here.)
>
> It would be great to have 10 or 15 cars. Novices and
> experienced folks are
> welcome.
>
> Another possibility is a midweek event with the
> track dedicated to just us.
>
> The floor is open for discussion.
>
> Rich/slow old poop
> 94 VR4
>
>
>
> --
> To sub:   Email majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body
> of 'subscribe 3sracers'.
> To unsub: Email majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body
> of 'unsubscribe 3sracers'
> "Ban low performance drivers, not high performance
cars."


=====
Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
'93 TT with Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH  5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
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***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 14:27:54 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Anybody want to gather for some racin'?

At 12:17 PM 1/10/02 -0800, John Christian wrote:
>Hi Rich,
>
>Putnam or Gingerman would be more in the middle.
>
I know, but the western/midwestern contingent (Houston, Colorado, Omaha and
Iowa) of 3S racers want to get together again like we did at Heartland Park
in Topeka, and Omaha is a good centralized track for us.

I agree that Putnam Park or Gingerman is more geographically centralized
for everyone else, but not for us.

However, there is absolutely no reason why we can't do this at other tracks
all over the place. If anybody arranges something at Putnam, Gingerman,
Blackhawk, St. Louis, Road America, Minnesota or similar tracks within 8 hr
driving time, I'll be there too.

Rich/slow old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:02:47 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> High RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ... was - > GT-Pro Split Second

You might be a racer if..
  Your tach limit is ALWAYS 500 rpm below your standard operating limit.

Seriously, I hope you try to check out Mitsubishi at least, and other racers who have tried higher rpm operations. Other than motor parts strength, valve clearances, belt strength and stretch, things like that need consideration. I don't think 7500 would be much problem, as I'm sure design allows for that much, but much more and you may be in fairly virgin territory.

Go very slowly and try to log and get info from anyone else who will contribute. For me,
it seems we have a lot of valve float above 7000. I just have an NA, but that drastic falloff in power has kept me from trying to use much higher rpm. I'll go to 7200-7300 in 2nd, but usually quit in 3rd at 6500-6800. Possibly with a cam and better valve springs higher rpm would be useful.  I certainly know I would LIKE to have an 8000 rpm limit. It would help a bunch at the drag strip and on road courses.  If the turbos already have much stiffer valve trains, and the timing belt won't jump teeth, then it is probably safe. 

Hope you get there, just don't want to see a nicely modified 'dead' engine.

Kurt 
   

- -----Original Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton [mailto:tds@brightok.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 8:01 PM
Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split
Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter


- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: 'aa2345@wayne.edu' <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 12:32 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split
Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter


>
>I'll probably start with piggyback to figure out how the car reacts and
once
>I'm satisfied that everything is working right and I have some baselines to
>go from then try the standalone mode to increase the rev limit to maybe
>7500-7800 RPM.  The whole rotating assembly on my motor is balanced now, so
>I should be able to go higher with relative safety.  If the Knock Alert
>works well, then I might try setting the standalone to engage as low as
4000
>RPM and WOT.

Matt - are you taking steps to maximize hp/torque above 7000 rpm?
Cams/cam gears etc?  Just curious since generally our torque curve
starts taking a dive around 6500 or so.  1st/2nd gear not so bad but
after that .....


>
>It'll take some experimenting, but I'll share my results with the List.

Please share.  I would like to have more info about the world
above 7K rpm! [Also the PMS and other mods]


- - tds

http://www.brightok.net/~tds



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 08:29:24 +1100
From: "Joel Singh" <joelsingh@primus.com.au>
Subject: Team3S: Idle problem.

The idle stops at about 1500~2000. I cleaned Throttle body, changed Idle
controller switch, but hasn't fixed my problem. whats else could it be?
thanks in advance.
Appreciated.

Joel.
1992 twin turbo.



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:26:51 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Anybody want to gather for some  racin'?

I would be thrilled to see some interest in Putnam Park.  I'm still waiting
for the 2002 schedule on the Putnam website.  I will keep the list posted on
available club meets when the info becomes available.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: <JCZooM@iname.com>; <3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Anybody want to gather for some racin'?


At 12:17 PM 1/10/02 -0800, John Christian wrote:
>Hi Rich,
>
>Putnam or Gingerman would be more in the middle.
>
I know, but the western/midwestern contingent (Houston, Colorado, Omaha and
Iowa) of 3S racers want to get together again like we did at Heartland Park
in Topeka, and Omaha is a good centralized track for us.

I agree that Putnam Park or Gingerman is more geographically centralized
for everyone else, but not for us.

However, there is absolutely no reason why we can't do this at other tracks
all over the place. If anybody arranges something at Putnam, Gingerman,
Blackhawk, St. Louis, Road America, Minnesota or similar tracks within 8 hr
driving time, I'll be there too.

Rich/slow old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


- ----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:00:50 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Idle problem.

Is it hunting?  sounds suspiciuosly like a big vacuum leak.  1500 rpm is the
default idle speed when it can't find a stable idle.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joel Singh [SMTP:joelsingh@primus.com.au]
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 3:29 PM
> To: team3s@team3s.com
> Subject: Team3S: Idle problem.
>
> The idle stops at about 1500~2000. I cleaned Throttle body, changed Idle
> controller switch, but hasn't fixed my problem. whats else could it be?
> thanks in advance.
> Appreciated.
>
> Joel.
> 1992 twin turbo.
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 17:06:12 -0500
From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter

What is "knock control"? Do you guys mean ignition retard if knock is
detected?

Many good turbo ECU's also reduce boost if knock is detected. I do not
think any of the ECU's that we are talking about are capable of this,
although a guy at AEM told me that his unit could be set up to do this.

Brian from GT-Pro told me that they are almost ready to come out with a
plug and play ECU which is not Autronic. This is very cool for us to have
several new plug and play 3S ECU's coming out all at once because it seems
like even Autronic SM2 is lacking some necessary features. As far as Motec,
Mikael forgone it in favor of Autronic. I am wondering why.

Philip Glazatov



I got a little more detailed answer, although somewhat different...


Hello Cody,

We have a dealer looking into fitting the Mitsubishi EVO6 PnP board into
the 3000GT. We do not know at the moment if it is possible but will know
in the next few months.

The SMC and SM2 model ECU's can be fitted to the 3000GT now. Both ECU
support the Mitsubishi trigger setup and will directly read the signals
into the ECU.

The only other item required is a multi channel CDI. The Autronic CD can
be used.

None of the Autronic product has knock control.


Ray Hall.







****************************************************************************

The information contained in this transmission, which may be
confidential and proprietary, is only for the intended recipients.
Unauthorized use is strictly prohibited. If you receive this
transmission in error, please notify me immediately by telephone
or electronic mail and confirm that you deleted this transmission
and the reply from your electronic mail system.
****************************************************************************




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:11:50 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Se cond Intake/ Fuel Comuter

I might try to get some of the features of these units into a table of some
sort and do a comparison page on them.  Seems like a lot of these questions
come up repeatedly and a resource with all the info on the products in one
place should be helpful.  I'll add any people's opinions to it from people
who are actually using the units as those people should have the best idea
of pros/cons for each unit.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 14:12:09 -0800
From: "ek2mfg" <ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> High RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Second

I went to the dyno to do testing on my ek2 downpipe for the NA and
the peak is at 5800 for torque and hp...why go above that if its not
any higher on the hp/torque...I can see 6500 to drop down to the 5800
after a shift to be in the sweet spot but 7500? man thats high for
what? bragging rights?

- ---- Original Message ----
From: KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com
To: tds@brightok.net
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> High RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ...
>was -> GT-Pro Split Second
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:02:47 -0500

>You might be a racer if..
>  Your tach limit is ALWAYS 500 rpm below your standard operating
>limit.
>
>Seriously, I hope you try to check out Mitsubishi at least, and
>other racers who have tried higher rpm operations. Other than motor
>parts strength, valve clearances, belt strength and stretch, things
>like that need consideration. I don't think 7500 would be much
>problem, as I'm sure design allows for that much, but much more and
>you may be in fairly virgin territory.
>
>Go very slowly and try to log and get info from anyone else who will
>contribute. For me,
>it seems we have a lot of valve float above 7000. I just have an NA,
>but that drastic falloff in power has kept me from trying to use
>much higher rpm. I'll go to 7200-7300 in 2nd, but usually quit in
>3rd at 6500-6800. Possibly with a cam and better valve springs
>higher rpm would be useful.  I certainly know I would LIKE to have
>an 8000 rpm limit. It would help a bunch at the drag strip and on
>road courses.  If the turbos already have much stiffer valve trains,
>and the timing belt won't jump teeth, then it is probably safe. 
>
>Hope you get there, just don't want to see a nicely modified 'dead'
>engine.
>
>Kurt 
>   
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Todd D.Shelton [mailto:tds@brightok.net]
>Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 8:01 PM
>Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
>Split
>Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jannusch, Matt <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>To: 'aa2345@wayne.edu' <aa2345@wayne.edu>
>Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Date: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 12:32 PM
>Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
>Split
>Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter
>
>
>>
>>I'll probably start with piggyback to figure out how the car reacts
>and
>once
>>I'm satisfied that everything is working right and I have some
>baselines to
>>go from then try the standalone mode to increase the rev limit to
>maybe
>>7500-7800 RPM.  The whole rotating assembly on my motor is balanced
>now, so
>>I should be able to go higher with relative safety.  If the Knock
>Alert
>>works well, then I might try setting the standalone to engage as
>low as
>4000
>>RPM and WOT.
>
>Matt - are you taking steps to maximize hp/torque above 7000 rpm?
>Cams/cam gears etc?  Just curious since generally our torque curve
>starts taking a dive around 6500 or so.  1st/2nd gear not so bad but
>after that .....
>
>
>>
>>It'll take some experimenting, but I'll share my results with the
>List.
>
>Please share.  I would like to have more info about the world
>above 7K rpm! [Also the PMS and other mods]
>
>
>- tds
>
>http://www.brightok.net/~tds
>
>
>
>***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>
>***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 14:19:08 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aftermarket ECU

So somebody tell me what would be wrong with this:

Install PMS in piggyback mode.  Install 720cc injectors.  Run all inputs to
the ECU as pass-throughs (UNmodified).  Tell PMS to cut IDC output from ECU
in half.  Run happily to 1.1 or 1.2bar (less than ECU fuel cut).  Use PMS to
lean out top end if ECU dumps too much fuel.

This way, since your ECU is actually seeing what kind of airflow, RPM, etc.
your engine is running(rather than a VPC or similar), you have ECU timing
adjustments, fuel richening, and all the other drivability and protection
things the ECU does FULLY FUNCTIONAL.  AND you have 720cc injectors that
aren't being taxed at > 1bar. 

If you want to run higher boost than when the ECU would initiate fuel cut,
then when airflow/boost/RPM/whatever hits conditions that the ECU initiates
fuel cut, then switch the PMS to standalone mode at that point and have it
take over from there.  You won't have all the protection/drivability stuff
from the stock ECU WHILE you're over 1.2 (or 1.3?) bar, but while you're
running that high, I doubt you care about gas mileage or idle stability.
And if you can't protect your engine by watching gauges while you're above
1.2bar, then you shouldn't be doing that anyway:-) 

- --Erik
currently dataloggerless '95 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 17:20:48 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> High RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ... was - > GT-Pro Split Second

I give an answer which I can not believe Jeff L. has not thrown out
yet.........  Big turbos like 15g or larger take longer to spool up and are
able to hold higher boost pressures to redline, you combine those facts with
appropriately done heads (cams + valve springs + retainers) you now have a
power band that is slightly larger.  (2800-5500 vs 3500-7500)

And this is not for "bragging rights" its to maximizing the potential of the
f***ing motor that you just spent like 5K +

But hey what do I know I came from a world where 7500 rev limter on stock
motor was common and 7500-8K was not uncommon for a race only motor


Russ F
CT

> -----Original Message-----
> From: ek2mfg [SMTP:ek2mfg@foxinternet.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 5:12 PM
> To: KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com; tds@brightok.net
> Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> High RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ...
> was -> GT-Pro Split Second
>
> I went to the dyno to do testing on my ek2 downpipe for the NA and
> the peak is at 5800 for torque and hp...why go above that if its not
> any higher on the hp/torque...I can see 6500 to drop down to the 5800
> after a shift to be in the sweet spot but 7500? man thats high for
> what? bragging rights?
>
> ---- Original Message ----
> From: KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com
> To: tds@brightok.net
> Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> High RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ...
> >was -> GT-Pro Split Second
> Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:02:47 -0500
>
> >You might be a racer if..
> >  Your tach limit is ALWAYS 500 rpm below your standard operating
> >limit.
> >
> >Seriously, I hope you try to check out Mitsubishi at least, and
> >other racers who have tried higher rpm operations. Other than motor
> >parts strength, valve clearances, belt strength and stretch, things
> >like that need consideration. I don't think 7500 would be much
> >problem, as I'm sure design allows for that much, but much more and
> >you may be in fairly virgin territory.
> >
> >Go very slowly and try to log and get info from anyone else who will
> >contribute. For me,
> >it seems we have a lot of valve float above 7000. I just have an NA,
> >but that drastic falloff in power has kept me from trying to use
> >much higher rpm. I'll go to 7200-7300 in 2nd, but usually quit in
> >3rd at 6500-6800. Possibly with a cam and better valve springs
> >higher rpm would be useful.  I certainly know I would LIKE to have
> >an 8000 rpm limit. It would help a bunch at the drag strip and on
> >road courses.  If the turbos already have much stiffer valve trains,
> >and the timing belt won't jump teeth, then it is probably safe. 
> >
> >Hope you get there, just don't want to see a nicely modified 'dead'
> >engine.
> >
> >Kurt 
> >   
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Todd D.Shelton [mailto:tds@brightok.net]
> >Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 8:01 PM
> >Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> >Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
> >Split
> >Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Jannusch, Matt <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
> >To: 'aa2345@wayne.edu' <aa2345@wayne.edu>
> >Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> >Date: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 12:32 PM
> >Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
> >Split
> >Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter
> >
> >
> >>
> >>I'll probably start with piggyback to figure out how the car reacts
> >and
> >once
> >>I'm satisfied that everything is working right and I have some
> >baselines to
> >>go from then try the standalone mode to increase the rev limit to
> >maybe
> >>7500-7800 RPM.  The whole rotating assembly on my motor is balanced
> >now, so
> >>I should be able to go higher with relative safety.  If the Knock
> >Alert
> >>works well, then I might try setting the standalone to engage as
> >low as
> >4000
> >>RPM and WOT.
> >
> >Matt - are you taking steps to maximize hp/torque above 7000 rpm?
> >Cams/cam gears etc?  Just curious since generally our torque curve
> >starts taking a dive around 6500 or so.  1st/2nd gear not so bad but
> >after that .....
> >
> >
> >>
> >>It'll take some experimenting, but I'll share my results with the
> >List.
> >
> >Please share.  I would like to have more info about the world
> >above 7K rpm! [Also the PMS and other mods]
> >
> >
> >- tds


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 14:22:15 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> High RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Second

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Zobel, Kurt <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
need consideration. I don't think 7500 would be much problem, as I'm sure design allows for that much, but much more and you may be
in fairly virgin territory.
>

> Go very slowly and try to log and get info from anyone else who will contribute. For me,
> it seems we have a lot of valve float above 7000. I just have an NA, but that drastic falloff in power has >kept me from trying to
use much higher rpm. I'll go to 7200-7300 in 2nd, but usually quit in 3rd at 6500->6800. Possibly with a cam and better valve
springs higher rpm would be useful


Matt Monett says he runs his 93 TT up to 8000 on a regular basis on the drag strip
with a stock lifter setup --- He's the man of the moment as far as getting results at
the strip and to him 8 grand isn't a problem.

        Jim Berry


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:34:37 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aftermarket ECU

> Install PMS in piggyback mode.  Install 720cc injectors.  Run
> all inputs to the ECU as pass-throughs (UNmodified).  Tell
> PMS to cut IDC output from ECU in half.  Run happily to 1.1
> or 1.2bar (less than ECU fuel cut).  Use PMS to lean out top
> end if ECU dumps too much fuel.

You don't really get a choice on what the PMS tells the ECU for flow rates.
If it is like the DSM version, it will clamp the MAF frequency to something
like 1500hz so that you don't get fuel cut.  The MAF flow values from the
PMS datalogger will tell you the true value, however.

> This way, since your ECU is actually seeing what kind of
> airflow, RPM, etc. your engine is running(rather than a VPC
> or similar), you have ECU timing adjustments, fuel richening,
> and all the other drivability and protection things the ECU
> does FULLY FUNCTIONAL.  AND you have 720cc injectors that
> aren't being taxed at > 1bar. 

All those things are in effect regardless of what the PMS changes.  If the
stock ECU senses too much knock, it will retard timing and the PMS won't try
to override that (it'll still apply the offsets you set, but the overall
timing will be retarded compared to if knock didn't happen).

> If you want to run higher boost than when the ECU would
> initiate fuel cut, then when airflow/boost/RPM/whatever hits
> conditions that the ECU initiates fuel cut, then switch the
> PMS to standalone mode at that point and have it take over
> from there.  You won't have all the protection/drivability
> stuff from the stock ECU WHILE you're over 1.2 (or 1.3?) bar,
> but while you're running that high, I doubt you care about
> gas mileage or idle stability. And if you can't protect your
> engine by watching gauges while you're above 1.2bar, then you
> shouldn't be doing that anyway:-) 

With the PMS the ECU shouldn't ever fuel cut unless you are getting way
serious knock and are essentially trying hard to blow up your motor by
setting the PMS timing values way advanced (past where the stock ECU can
compensate for it).

But, yes...  The Standalone mode is for people who really know what they are
doing and have extensive ways of monitoring what the motor is doing (knock,
EGT, etc.) and are going for maximum power at the risk of possibly damaging
something.

Only 1.2-1.3 bar?  I was thinking more like running 1.8 bar on the 116
octane "good stuff".  :-)

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:38:17 -0600
From: overclck@ies.net (Cody Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Idle problem.

Huh???

Do you mean the idle won't drop below 1500 or 2000?  There is an idle
screw that has some adjustability in it.  It is covered by a black
plastic cover on the front edge of the throttle body.  It is about 3/8"
in diameter.

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Joel Singh
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 3:29 PM
To: team3s@team3s.com
Subject: Team3S: Idle problem.

The idle stops at about 1500~2000. I cleaned Throttle body, changed Idle
controller switch, but hasn't fixed my problem. whats else could it be?
thanks in advance.
Appreciated.

Joel.
1992 twin turbo.



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 14:51:00 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aftermarket ECU

So does the PMS only modify the inputs to the ECU (FROM the sensors) or does
it modify the outputs from the ECU (TO injectors, coils, etc.) as well? 

What I'm getting at is that if you halve the airflow input (PMS, VPC, etc.)
to compensate for 720cc injectors, you don't get the richening, the timing
retard, and other things the ECU does when it thinks it's under heavy load.
IOW, if you install injectors that inject 2x the fuel, the simple solution
would be to halve the input to the injectors rather than halve the input to
the ECU which then goes to the injectors. 

Can't someone make a cheap, reliable frequency divider circuit to splice
into the injector lines from the ECU?  Why mess around with the airflow
reading?  VPC.... $1000.  Freqdiv circuit parts... $10 tops at Radio Shack.

- --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:44:11 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aftermarket ECU

> If I remember correctly you have to add an additional sensor?
> (maybe that was for EGT?)  Have you tried either of these?
> If so - how did it go and what sensors, connection location etc?

Any sensor with output between 0 and 5 V and good resolution. I use the GM 3
bar MAP sensor for the water injection and will connect it to the logger as
well.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 17:02:03 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aftermarket ECU

> So does the PMS only modify the inputs to the ECU (FROM the
> sensors) or does it modify the outputs from the ECU (TO
> injectors, coils, etc.) as well? 

It does both to some extent.  The airflow values are the "true" values until
it hits the frequency cutoff limit, where the PMS passes through a frequency
of whatever Hz the EFI Systems folks decided was a good limit to keep
unnecessary fuel cut away.  It does modify the injector pulsewidth outbound
from the ECU and replaces those signals with its own to the injectors
themselves.  Same with timing control.

> What I'm getting at is that if you halve the airflow input
> (PMS, VPC, etc.) to compensate for 720cc injectors, you don't
> get the richening, the timing retard, and other things the
> ECU does when it thinks it's under heavy load. IOW, if you
> install injectors that inject 2x the fuel, the simple
> solution would be to halve the input to the injectors rather
> than halve the input to the ECU which then goes to the injectors. 

Right.  This is what the PMS does, but it caps the MAF frequency to prevent
fuel cut.  1500hz (or whatever limit they chose) is still well into the
"engine is under load" range - just not high enough where the ECU panics and
cuts fuel.

> Can't someone make a cheap, reliable frequency divider
> circuit to splice into the injector lines from the ECU?  Why
> mess around with the airflow reading?  VPC.... $1000. 
> Freqdiv circuit parts... $10 tops at Radio Shack.

Hmmmm.  I'd think latency might be an issue, but maybe not.  The other
factor is that the 720's might not really inject double the fuel - the fuel
delivery for a given pulsewidth might not truly be linear.  When 720's have
been measured for flow, some of them have been as low as 650cc.  Some
ability to fine-tune is still going to be required, and fuel cut will be a
major problem if you only modify the injector pulsewidths, especially with
larger turbos (fuel cut is right around 15 psi with 15G's and no MAF signal
tweaking).

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 22:37:57 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Se cond Intake/ Fuel Comuter

Motec seem not to run well well in our cars. There are no start-up programs
that help for ease as well as they seemed to have been only successful apps
for 4-bangers. We have a tuner here that uses it in Renault Turbos and
Lancia Rally cars and tried it in the Renault V6 turbo without success. Our
engine is not far away fro mthis one.

Knock sensing is only for it's own knock sensor.

Unfortunately, it's not that easy many people think it really is !

Roger
93'3000GT TT

> No... might be running one ona friends neon soon.. but we may go with a
TEC
> III set-up instead (this may be better for a 3/S actually)
>
> Give the guys down in So. Cal at Motec a ring.. they are very helpful.
I'm
> working on a '91 S TT, so I have a different gig going than your 95 3k
>



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 01:06:13 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter

> What is "knock control"? Do you guys mean ignition retard if knock is
> detected?

Yes, this would be the definition, although we'd be hapyy if we only could
read or even log knock with such "standalone" ECUs.

> Many good turbo ECU's also reduce boost if knock is detected. I do not
> think any of the ECU's that we are talking about are capable of this,
> although a guy at AEM told me that his unit could be set up to do this.

Yes, but again with their own knock sensor. 99% not compatible with the
Mitsu one. Maybe it could be positioned in the same bracket but then it must
be tuned in to the engines characteristic. Hey this is a job engineers are
doing on an engine dyno with analysing histograms and voice records on
several parts on the engine.

> Brian from GT-Pro told me that they are almost ready to come out with a
> plug and play ECU which is not Autronic.

Oh yes, ... do you really think he'd tell you ?

> This is very cool for us to have
> several new plug and play 3S ECU's coming out all at once because it seems
> like even Autronic SM2 is lacking some necessary features.

Some are good designs and lack of software others have a great software but
the hardware is limited. The AEM soudns not bad ... but then the question
rises again : does it work in our cars too ?

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 17:13:52 -0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Se cond Intake/ Fuel Comuter

"Oh yes, ... do you really think he'd tell you ?"


Roger,

He has been telling anyone who will listen.


- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl [mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 5:06 PM
To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split
Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter


> What is "knock control"? Do you guys mean ignition retard if knock is
> detected?

Yes, this would be the definition, although we'd be hapyy if we only could
read or even log knock with such "standalone" ECUs.

> Many good turbo ECU's also reduce boost if knock is detected. I do not
> think any of the ECU's that we are talking about are capable of this,
> although a guy at AEM told me that his unit could be set up to do this.

Yes, but again with their own knock sensor. 99% not compatible with the
Mitsu one. Maybe it could be positioned in the same bracket but then it must
be tuned in to the engines characteristic. Hey this is a job engineers are
doing on an engine dyno with analysing histograms and voice records on
several parts on the engine.

> Brian from GT-Pro told me that they are almost ready to come out with a
> plug and play ECU which is not Autronic.

Oh yes, ... do you really think he'd tell you ?

> This is very cool for us to have
> several new plug and play 3S ECU's coming out all at once because it seems
> like even Autronic SM2 is lacking some necessary features.

Some are good designs and lack of software others have a great software but
the hardware is limited. The AEM soudns not bad ... but then the question
rises again : does it work in our cars too ?

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 20:00:06 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: First Datalog

I finally entered the datalog age this evening.  With an ambient temp. of
approx. 40F and my boost set to 18psi, I recorded a few 2nd to 6500 and 3rd
to 6500rpm runs.  Fortunately, after reviewing the log, I only got 1 knock
sum response.  It took me awile to find it, and I was beginning to think my
sensor wasn't functioning.  I finally located one peek with max value of 17.
I'm trying to recall what most have decided is the max safe short term knock
sum (I already know Roger...it's zero) for those of us living on the edge.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

- ----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:23:20 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> High RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ... was - > GT-Pro Split Second

Almost forgot to reply to this.
All things being equal, the higher the rpm the better.

More power. You may lose power once past peak rpm, but you are going to a higher gear,
so wheel HP is reduced by the gear ratio. The longer you can stay in a lower gear the
better. It is only by concession that we have more than 1 gear.  
It is smoother.  
It allows more gear overlap, for flexibility on specific corner needs.
Less shifting, maybe skip a shift in some cases.  or at least delay a shift
until OUT of a corner vs IN the corner. 
It provides better throttle response and manipulation.
It provides better traction, more even rather than pulsed power.
It makes more noise!

Got to go rev up, see ya,
Kurt

  

- -----Original Message-----
From: ek2mfg [mailto:ek2mfg@foxinternet.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 2:12 PM
To: Zobel, Kurt; tds@brightok.net
Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> High RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ... was
- -> GT-Pro Split Second


I went to the dyno to do testing on my ek2 downpipe for the NA and
the peak is at 5800 for torque and hp...why go above that if its not
any higher on the hp/torque...I can see 6500 to drop down to the 5800
after a shift to be in the sweet spot but 7500? man thats high for
what? bragging rights?

- ---- Original Message ----
From: KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com
To: tds@brightok.net
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> High RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ...
>was -> GT-Pro Split Second
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 16:02:47 -0500

>You might be a racer if..
>  Your tach limit is ALWAYS 500 rpm below your standard operating
>limit.
>
>Seriously, I hope you try to check out Mitsubishi at least, and
>other racers who have tried higher rpm operations. Other than motor
>parts strength, valve clearances, belt strength and stretch, things
>like that need consideration. I don't think 7500 would be much
>problem, as I'm sure design allows for that much, but much more and
>you may be in fairly virgin territory.
>
>Go very slowly and try to log and get info from anyone else who will
>contribute. For me,
>it seems we have a lot of valve float above 7000. I just have an NA,
>but that drastic falloff in power has kept me from trying to use
>much higher rpm. I'll go to 7200-7300 in 2nd, but usually quit in
>3rd at 6500-6800. Possibly with a cam and better valve springs
>higher rpm would be useful.  I certainly know I would LIKE to have
>an 8000 rpm limit. It would help a bunch at the drag strip and on
>road courses.  If the turbos already have much stiffer valve trains,
>and the timing belt won't jump teeth, then it is probably safe. 
>
>Hope you get there, just don't want to see a nicely modified 'dead'
>engine.
>
>Kurt 
>   
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Todd D.Shelton [mailto:tds@brightok.net]
>Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 8:01 PM
>Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
>Split
>Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jannusch, Matt <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>To: 'aa2345@wayne.edu' <aa2345@wayne.edu>
>Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Date: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 12:32 PM
>Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Now -> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro
>Split
>Second Intake/ Fuel Comuter
>
>
>>
>>I'll probably start with piggyback to figure out how the car reacts
>and
>once
>>I'm satisfied that everything is working right and I have some
>baselines to
>>go from then try the standalone mode to increase the rev limit to
>maybe
>>7500-7800 RPM.  The whole rotating assembly on my motor is balanced
>now, so
>>I should be able to go higher with relative safety.  If the Knock
>Alert
>>works well, then I might try setting the standalone to engage as
>low as
>4000
>>RPM and WOT.
>
>Matt - are you taking steps to maximize hp/torque above 7000 rpm?
>Cams/cam gears etc?  Just curious since generally our torque curve
>starts taking a dive around 6500 or so.  1st/2nd gear not so bad but
>after that .....
>
>
>>
>>It'll take some experimenting, but I'll share my results with the
>List.
>
>Please share.  I would like to have more info about the world
>above 7K rpm! [Also the PMS and other mods]
>
>
>- tds
>
>http://www.brightok.net/~tds
>
>
>
>***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>
>***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 18:38:45 -0800
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> High RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ... was ->  GT-Pro Split Second

Matt dosn't do this on the stock setup. He has cam regrind and uses
remapped ECU from G-Force (fuel and timing with rev limiter reset to
8300.

Rich

Jim Berry wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Zobel, Kurt <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
> need consideration. I don't think 7500 would be much problem, as I'm sure design allows for that much, but much more and you may be
> in fairly virgin territory.
> >
>
> > Go very slowly and try to log and get info from anyone else who will contribute. For me,
> > it seems we have a lot of valve float above 7000. I just have an NA, but that drastic falloff in power has >kept me from trying to
> use much higher rpm. I'll go to 7200-7300 in 2nd, but usually quit in 3rd at 6500->6800. Possibly with a cam and better valve
> springs higher rpm would be useful
>
> Matt Monett says he runs his 93 TT up to 8000 on a regular basis on the drag strip
> with a stock lifter setup --- He's the man of the moment as far as getting results at
> the strip and to him 8 grand isn't a problem.
>
>         Jim Berry
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 19:33:48 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> High RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Second

He ran 8 grand before the regrind --- yes it requires a change to the ECU.
The point was with stock lifter/spring setup you can run 8K without valve
float and without pumping up the hydraulic lifters.

        Jim Berry
==========================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
Cc: Zobel, Kurt <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>; Todd D.Shelton <tds@brightok.net>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2002 6:38 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Now -> High RPMs, was-> Aftermarket ECU ... was -> GT-Pro Split Second


> Matt dosn't do this on the stock setup. He has cam regrind and uses
> remapped ECU from G-Force (fuel and timing with rev limiter reset to
> 8300.
>
> Rich
>
> Jim Berry wrote:
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Zobel, Kurt <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
> > need consideration. I don't think 7500 would be much problem, as I'm sure design allows for that much, but much more and you may
be
> > in fairly virgin territory.
> > >
> >
> > > Go very slowly and try to log and get info from anyone else who will contribute. For me,
> > > it seems we have a lot of valve float above 7000. I just have an NA, but that drastic falloff in power has >kept me from
trying to
> > use much higher rpm. I'll go to 7200-7300 in 2nd, but usually quit in 3rd at 6500->6800. Possibly with a cam and better valve
> > springs higher rpm would be useful
> >
> > Matt Monett says he runs his 93 TT up to 8000 on a regular basis on the drag strip
> > with a stock lifter setup --- He's the man of the moment as far as getting results at
> > the strip and to him 8 grand isn't a problem.
> >
> >         Jim Berry
> >
> > ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #722
***************************************