Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, January 8
2002 Volume 01 : Number
720
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jan 2002 15:18:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tempature Gauge Pegged
from the service manual:
"When the
engine coolant temperature is high, the unit's resistance
is low and there is
a great flow of current in the circuit, so the
gauge's indicator indicates in
the "H" area."
The translation for your problem: there is a short to
ground in the
circuit allowing "a great flow of current". :) The primary
suspect is
the gauge unit (sensor in the head) itself. The manual says to
pull
the sensor with wiring still attached and ground it (the body of
the
sensor grounds through the case to the head when installed or
other
engine metal part if removed). If the gauge reads "H" then there
is
an internal short in the sensor and replace it. Since the
dealer
mechanic tried this and the symptoms persist, the logical next
step
is to inspect the rest of the circuit for a short (that would be
low
ohms on the volt-ohm meter in the path you check). Suggestion,
he/you
need to check the wiring. Since you recently had the trany out
(or
did you replace the shaft with the trany installed?), you might
start
around there to see if you pinched or scraped the insulation off
any
wires.
Note: The ECM does monitor this sensor and will set fuel
injection
and idle speed based on this value. See the "DSM tech" manual
for
more details.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, January 07, 2002 3:25 PM
Subject: Team3S: Tempature Gauge
Pegged
Hello all, recently I wrote about my car not starting after
replacing
the output shaft. I finally got the car to start w/ the help of
a
little can of ether. After starting it the temperature gauge is
pegged
at hot (even if you just turn the key to acc.) anyhow the car
isnt really
overheating that I can tell. I took it in to a dealership
for the 60k service
and had them check out the problem, they have had
it since last Wed. with no
clue. They replaced the sensor to the
temp. gauge but still no luck. Its
starting to get pretty expensive
so any help or suggestions would be much
appreciated!
__________________________________________________
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 15:36:24
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: A/F Gauge Sensor
> Yes, the all the O2 readings "should" be
the same. But do you
> think they are?
Now THERE'S the question of
the day :-) Would using an O2 sensor 8"
downstream of the stock
one result in a significantly different reading?
(That's assuming that
there's just empty 2.75" pipe between the sensors - no
precats). My
Stillen downpipe has the bungs already there - they're plugged
now, but I can
just buy a new O2 sensor and screw it in if I want to do this
- - almost no
work.
I know that the EGT might be slightly lower, but I have no idea how
much. I
also understand that O2 sensors are affected by EGT and begin
to show lower
voltages if the temperature goes up too high ...
from
http://www.alltrac.net/tuning/afgauge.htmlTemperature
O2 Voltage
500c 0.83
750c 0.74
900c 0.66
If that
extra 8" of piping results in the A/F gauge reading lean (at least
that's
erring on the safe side), then would ceramic coating the exhaust
manifold,
downpipe, and turbine housing help? I'm gonna have 'em off the
car
anyway...
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 15:37:57
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tempature Gauge Pegge
Oops, a small correction. The engine
monitors a separate sensor next
to the gauge unit sensor, so your gauge
reading "H" should not have
contributed to engine starting problems unless
you damaged the wiring
for the sensor used for engine control. Better check
out that circuit
also.
Pic of coolant temp sensors:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-coolanttemp.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
"Tom Terflinger"
<
terflit@hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday,
January 07, 2002 4:18 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tempature Gauge
Pegged
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 19:22:44
-0500
From: "Infernalist" <
baali@wwnet.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Best tires?
I just purchased Dunlop SP 5000's Got a great deal on em.
Tirerack.com rates
them very high, they are asymetrical, with a W speed
rating (thats better
than Z) those are also the tires that were on the car
when i purchased it
and they really do hug the road. Less expensive than
pirellis and rated much
better on wet/snow roads.
my
2cents
Infernalist
1992 RT/TT
HKS EVC EZ Boost Controller
(14.5)
Gutted Precats
The "What Cat" Test Pipe
Stage II Clutch
8mm
Wires
Autometer Boost Gauge on A-pillar
K&N FIPK
Lead Foot <----
That mod was free ;)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of JuQuEl
Sent: Monday, January
07, 2002 12:58 PM
To: Team 3s
Subject: Team3S: Best tires?
This
is the first time that I'll be buying tires for
my VR-4, since I bought
it. I have called several
places and have a range between $650 and
$1100 to
replace all four tires. What I'd like to know is what
brand
is the best and which will last longest?
Also, the leather 'boot' around
the stick shift is
totally worn out. Does anyone have any suggestions
as
to where I can buy one and how much they cost?
LouAnn
'93 3000GT
VR-4
__________________________________________________
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*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 19:27:44
-0500
From: "Jon" <
jon@ncfpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Anti-Lock
Brake Light
Hey guys,
My anti-lock brake
warning light (91 3000GT VR-4 TT) has been coming on
lately. It started
yesterday, but when I started the car this morning, it
worked fine (ABS
checked out when I test it). The light came on again after
parking it,
and then driving it around a bit. The light illuminates when I
start
driving. Example: At a stop light I turned off the engine, and
started
the car. The ABS light didnt come on until I started driving (I
could
hit the brakes before I left the light and the warning lights stayed
off) but
once I hit about 5 mph it lights. Any ideas what could be causing
the
problem? Thanks
-- Jon
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 17:15:11
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Grills
So is anyone making grills (stainless, painted, or
otherwise protected) for
the front and side openings on our cars? As in
the radiator opening, the IC
openings, and the side (mildly functionally)
rear brake inlets? I know
there were some for sale on 3si a while back,
but AFAIK, no one is currently
making them. I don't want the fins on my
new side-mount intercoolers to be
bent up by rocks, so I was thinking a
functional set of grills might be
nice. Anyone know where to get
them? Or where I can get high-quality
parts to make them?
-
--Erik
'95 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 18:15:27
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Big Red Tidbit
If anybody cares, i just test fitted one of my OZ
F1 CUP's (17x9 40mm
offset) on my new Big Reds (courtesy of Geoff's 95 VR-4)
and it fit without
the use of a spacer. Great news, no spacer or mile long
studs needed to
mount these wheels. As far as the strength and longevety of
this model
wheel, I guess we'll see...........
Wayne
(Non-Member
of the "spin the lug forever" club)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 18:17:17
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Grills
I see them on ebay all the time.
Wayne
At
06:15 PM 1/7/02 , Gross, Erik wrote:
>So is anyone making grills
(stainless, painted, or otherwise protected) for
>the front and side
openings on our cars?
>
>--Erik
>'95 VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 20:35:09
-0500
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@3kgt.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Grills
I think those are just for Gen 1 cars...
- -G
> I
see them on ebay all the time.
>
> Wayne
>
> At 06:15 PM
1/7/02 , Gross, Erik wrote:
> >So is anyone making grills (stainless,
painted, or otherwise protected)
for
> >the front and side openings
on our cars?
> >
> >--Erik
> >'95
VR-4
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 17:53:46
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Big Red Tidbit
Ahh..its YOUR car now.
And, longer
studs for racing also means you have hardened studs for
longevity in racing
conditions...not just longer ones.
On Mon, 7 Jan 2002, Wayne
wrote:
> If anybody cares, i just test fitted one of my OZ F1 CUP's
(17x9 40mm
> offset) on my new Big Reds (courtesy of Geoff's 95 VR-4) and
it fit without
> the use of a spacer. Great news, no spacer or mile long
studs needed to
> mount these wheels. As far as the strength and
longevety of this model
> wheel, I guess we'll see...........
>
> Wayne
> (Non-Member of the "spin the lug forever" club)
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 17:54:08
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Big Red Tidbit
And while im on it.
The wheels the car
went to you on..are OZ racing wheels. And theyre bent
like
hell.
On Mon, 7 Jan 2002, Wayne wrote:
> If anybody cares, i
just test fitted one of my OZ F1 CUP's (17x9 40mm
> offset) on my new Big
Reds (courtesy of Geoff's 95 VR-4) and it fit without
> the use of a
spacer. Great news, no spacer or mile long studs needed to
> mount these
wheels. As far as the strength and longevety of this model
> wheel, I
guess we'll see...........
>
> Wayne
> (Non-Member of the
"spin the lug forever" club)
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 21:12:43
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Best tires?
(Hang on for some rambling toward the bottom ...
apologies but it felt
good to get all sorts of this in one place ... plus it
was a slow post
day so I had time to "spin my wheels" while
composing.)
Great input. Are we logging this for another FAQ page
for Team3S? I
didn't mention this earlier but I think someone said on
here that the
speed rating means it can withstand that speed for one hour and
not
degrade, wear out, lose performance, etc. That means on a Z-rated
tire
you can go ... what ... 149+ mph for an hour? You can't do this
even on
the Autobahn ... unless Roger has found a nice 225 km stretch of
road).
I think W is like 168 mph or something. Y-rated tires are the
next ones
up the ladder. More at TireRack's site,
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/general/speed.htm.
I
see that the Dunlop SP 5000 Asymmetrical is only shown on TireRack's
site as
a max size of 17". Many of us have 18" wheels to shod. You
didn't
give a size so I'll assume a 245/45WR17 (since it has a
W-rating).
17"
tires
Dunlop SP 5000 Asymmetrical
245/45WR17
Treadwear = 340
Max
load = 1,521 pounds
Tread depth = 10/32"
Price = $139
Pirelli
P-Zero Asimmetrico
245/45ZR17 or 245/45YR17
Treadwear = 140
Max load =
1,521 pounds
Tread depth = 10/32" or 11/32"
Price = $216 or
$183
18" tires
Dunlop SP 5000 Asymmetrical
None
available
Pirelli P-Zero Asimmetrico
245/40ZR18
Treadwear =
140
Max load = 1,433 pounds
Tread depth = 10/32"
Price =
$223
Other "Max Performance" tires in the 18" range are BFGoodrich
g-Force,
Potenza Pole Position; Dunlop SP Sport 9000; Goodyear Eagle F1;
Michelin
Pilot Sport; Pirelli P-Zero; Yokohama AVS Sport. Feel free to
compare
numbers like above as well as price for your given criteria.
Yes the
Dunlop 5000 is a great price vs. P-Zero but it is also 1/32"
shorter
tread depth and 200 treadwear higher. But for $40 is you don't
need
that much grip then there you have it.
I don't mean to dispute
anyone's claim, Infernalist, but everyone has
their own situation and many
times people will stick with their tire
brand/make until they have a problem
and then will ask for advice from
others. And if the rating on
TireRack's page is better for Dunlop 5000
than Pirelli P-Zero in rain and
snow then take an average of how many
Porsches (their stock tire is the
P-Zero in many cases) are on the road
in rain and snow versus any other car
that comes with Dunlop 5000 as
stock or aftermarket.
Now if you wanna
play with the numbers scale ... take the "Tire
Performance Ratings" (a
multiplication factor) and multiply that for
each point that the tire
wins. For example, if Dunlop wins the category
that is rated as #8 then
it gets 8 points. The Dunlop has more miles
logged but is this really a
win? It might be. Look at the results.
Survey factor =
Pirelli P-Zero Asy vs. Dunlop 5000 Asy
10 = Dry traction = 8.9 vs 8.5
(Pirelli wins)
9 = Wet traction = 6.8 vs 8.3 (Dunlop wins)
8 = Hydro
resistance = 6.3 vs 8.2 (Dunlop wins)
7 = Snow traction = N/A vs 6.9 (Pirelli
wins)
6 = Cornering stability = 8.7 vs 8.0 (Pirelli wins)
5 = Steering
response = 8.6 vs 7.9 (Pirelli wins)
4 = Ride comfort = 6.6 vs 8.1 (Dunlop
wins)
3 = Noise comfort = 6.4 vs 8.2 (Dunlop wins)
2 = Treadwear = 5.7 vs
7.4 (Dunlop wins)
1 = Total miles in survey = 1,171,311 vs 2,175,449 (Dunlop
has more)
Dunlop = 9 + 8 + 4 + 3 + 2 + 1 = 27 points
Pirelli = 10 + 7
+ 6 + 5 = 28 points
Now are we bickering over 1 point? Remember
that the Dunlop is a 17"
tire and the P-Zero can be an 18". That has a
lot to do with ride
comfort, noise comfort, total miles, etc.
And
now let us look at the car's that are logged in the review for each
tire and
what types of car they are:
Pirelli P-Zero cars in survey (32 total
reviews):
2000 Chevrolet Corvette
1998 Honda Prelude
1996 Acura Integra
GS-R and a Legend
2000 Jaguar S Type V6 and V8
2000 Mercedes Benz
CLK430
1999 Porsche 911 Carrera and Carrera 4
1997, 2000, and 2001 Porsche
Boxster and Boxster S
1987 Porsche 944 Turbo
2002 Subaru Impreza
WRX
1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 (that's my review)
1993 Mazda
Miata
1996 Eagle Talon TSi
Dunlop 5-000 cars in survey (131 total
reviews):
2000 Audi A6 Quattro
2000 Audi S4
2000 Audi S4
1991 Audi
200
1991 and 1997 Ford Mustang LX and Cobra
1991 Ford Taurus SHO
1996
Ford Probe GT
1994 Ford Thunderbird SC
199x Volkswagen Jetta (all
kinds)
199x Volkswagen Passat (all kinds)
2000 Subaru Impreza
2.5RS
1996 Eagle Talon Tsi
1990 Toyota Celica All-Trac
1994 Toyota
Camry
1995 Pontiac Grand Am GT
1999 Chevrolet S10 2WD Extreme
1988
Chevrolet Corvette
1995 Chevrolet Camaro Z28
1983 and 1995 BMW 533i and
525i
1992 Mazda MX3 GS
1987 Mazda RX-7
1995 Nissan 300ZX
1995
Mitsubishi Galant
1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL (from Memphis, TN)
1999
Oldsmobile Alero GLS
1988 Mercedes Benz 260E
1989 Porsche 911 Carerra
4
1996 Saab 900SE Turbo
1995 Honda Accord EX
1994 Acura Vigor
1995
Dodge Avenger ES
1991 GMC Cyclone
And a host more of: Sebring, Lancer,
Maxima, Infiniti, Contour,
Cavalier, Civic, Lexus, Corrado, Shadow, 735iL,
Millennia, and Malibu
More than my 2 hp worth.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4 with Pirelli P-Zero 18" summer tires, Bridgestone Blizzak 17"
winter
tires, and Yokohama A-032 17" open track tires
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Infernalist
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002
19:23
I just purchased Dunlop SP 5000's Got a great deal on em.
Tirerack.com
rates
them very high, they are asymetrical, with a W speed
rating (thats
better
than Z) those are also the tires that were on the car
when i purchased
it
and they really do hug the road. Less expensive than
pirellis and rated
much
better on wet/snow roads.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 21:18:22
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Big Red Tidbit
Is there a page we need to create for what wheels
and offsets or spacers
fit over first gen, second gen, Big Red, Big Blacks,
F40, AP Racing,
etc. brake calipers?
I know a few people have a list
of what fits and what does not (both 17"
1997-1999 SL and 18" wheels fit over
a second gen rotor and Big Reds).
We see about the OZ F1 CUP's below but how
about others. Just thought
it would be nice to collect some of the info
that is flying around out
here.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Big Reds
and stock 18" wheels (summer) or 1997-1999 SL
17" wheels (winter and open
track)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
Sent:
Monday, January 07, 2002 20:54
And while im on it.
The
wheels the car went to you on..are OZ racing wheels. And
theyre
bent
like hell.
On Mon, 7 Jan 2002, Wayne wrote:
>
If anybody cares, i just test fitted one of my OZ F1 CUP's (17x9 40mm
>
offset) on my new Big Reds (courtesy of Geoff's 95 VR-4) and it fit
without
> the use of a spacer. Great news, no spacer or mile long studs
needed
to
> mount these wheels. As far as the strength and longevety
of this model
> wheel, I guess we'll see...........
>
>
Wayne
> (Non-Member of the "spin the lug forever"
club)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 22:01:42
-0500
From: "Infernalist" <
baali@wwnet.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Best tires?
>I see that the Dunlop SP 5000 Asymmetrical is only shown
on TireRack's
>site as a max size of 17".
Good point!!! i didnt
even think of that seeing as i currently have 17's and
didnt bother looking
for 18's, wont put those on till next summer so if the
5000's do not come in
18's ill have to make a change ;) after looking over
your numbers and the
price diff i think in 17's the dunlop are a better
choice, but im out of the
18's side of things (till the summer at least ;) )
I think its a great idea
to log this one, get some input on all the diff
tires out there! make the
next persons tire choice much easier.
1992 RT/TT
HKS EVC EZ
Boost Controller (14.5)
Gutted Precats
The "What Cat" Test Pipe
Stage
II Clutch
8mm Wires
Autometer Boost Gauge on A-pillar
K&N
FIPK
Lead Foot <---- That mod was free ;)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 22:31:37
-0500
From: Mike <
mike21b@dejazzd.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sell it or keep it?
(My first post here)
A few years ago,
I bought my 92 RT/TT. Searching for a car that I'd
usually be alone in,
I was actually looking at the AWD Diamond Star
triplets and fell in
love with the Stealth after driving it.
http://home.dejazzd.com/mike21b/Pictures.htmWhoever
had it before me thrashed it thoroughly, all 4 wheels were bent
and the tires
had been patched so many times they looked like they
should be on the Beverly
Hillbillies' truck.
So, I rounded up a set of 97 VR4 wheels and added
Michelin XGT-Z4s (***
where the heck can you find these for $125 each??? ***)
and the rest has
been smooth sailing since.
I never regretted getting
the car. Now, 100,000 miles later (155k on the
car) I need to decide whether
to keep or get rid of it. I rarely drive
it but love it anyway. My daily
driver is a 97 Taurus SHO.
The Stealth needs:
- --- New tranny and
transfer case
- --- 18" VR4 wheels rebuilt (except that I only have 3
that are
rebuildable)
(Note to all: Don't drive car with 40 series tires
after dark in PA from
February to March. Potholes move around at that time of
year!!)
- --- Front end work - probably struts, bearings, and steering
components.
It knocks and jiggles around on highway bumps.
I know the
approximate cost of the above, but finding VR4 Chrome wheels
is next to
impossible and Kormex is the only transmission shop that I
know. I'll
probably be taking a $4000 car and putting $5000 into it.
Appearance wise,
the car is in great condition.
Looking for suggestions from anyone on
this list.
Mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 21:41:39
-0600
From:
daedel@mac.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Grills
I bought a set on ebay for my 94. It looks really good
and has little
sticky pads on it to keep the grills in place. Its just steel
chicken
mesh, but thats all thats really needed. I'll email privately with
the
name of the seller when I find his name.
- -David
On
Monday, January 7, 2002, at 07:15 PM, Gross, Erik wrote:
> So is
anyone making grills (stainless, painted, or otherwise protected)
>
for
> the front and side openings on our cars? As in the radiator
opening,
> the IC
> openings, and the side (mildly functionally)
rear brake inlets? I know
> there were some for sale on 3si a while
back, but AFAIK, no one is
> currently
> making them. I don't
want the fins on my new side-mount intercoolers
> to be
> bent up
by rocks, so I was thinking a functional set of grills might be
>
nice. Anyone know where to get them? Or where I can get
high-quality
> parts to make them?
>
> --Erik
> '95
VR-4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 23:09:38
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Best tires?
Thanks, Infernalist (neat name). I'm glad you
weren't mad at all the
gibberish I plopped in there. I didn't think of
that until I tried to
find an 18" Dunlop 5000 otherwise the first part of the
message would
have been different I'm sure.
Also, when it rains, I
don't continue my 80 and 95 mph runs on the
Interstate. No need.
So I don't look for a tire that is 100% perfect
in the rain. I have had
the car up to 148 mph so far on P-Zero (until a
mile later I ran out of good
clean road) and you guys with the 3000GT SL
cars hang on pretty good up to
about 115-120 mph ... then I slowly
started to walk away from him ... I was
impressed with how good they
were (not sure what mods if any he had under the
hood though). We did
Erie to Buffalo in about an hour (about 100
miles). Man was that fun
(safe, but fun).
I guess I'll start
trying to think of a way to track this info for the
Team3S page. What
also caught my eye was the max load rating on the
tire. If it is 1,521
pounds then the entire front of the car (doing a
hard braking where the rear
tires lift off the ground) then the front
tires will be holding about 4,000
pounds or 2,000 pounds each.
Obviously over the limit of the tires
recommended weight. Interesting.
I usually have a passenger (200
pounds), me (180 pounds), rollbar (60
pounds), fuel, etc. (75 pounds) for an
average of 515 pounds over
standard which is about 3,850 so a cruising weight
of 4,365. Oops.
Under hard braking the rear wheels don't leave the
ground but I bet have
less than 1,000 pounds on them also. That means
the front two tires
have 3,365 or 1,682.5 pounds each. STILL over the
recommended limit.
If the rear holds 1,500 pounds then that is 1,432.5 pounds
and just
under the number. =)
Dare we talk about the track tires
when braking full-out at 135 mph and
stock (i.e. squishy) suspension?
The Yokohama Advan A032R tires have a
recommended max load of 1,477 pounds
(255/40/17 size). Oops. That is
why each person has a different
inflation pressure in the same tire,
same car, same track, different driving
style (setup, suspension, etc.).
At Heartland Park there were 5 VR-4s and all
had Big Reds and all but
one had race tires (Jim Floyd had the
P-Zeros). I think the air
pressure ran from 34/38 (front/rear) to 44/50
or something. Neat. That
is why it is nice to have a bunch of us
at the same track at the same
time.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Infernalist
Sent: Monday, January 07,
2002 22:02
>I see that the Dunlop SP 5000 Asymmetrical is only
shown on TireRack's
>site as a max size of 17".
Good point!!! i
didnt even think of that seeing as i currently have 17's
and
didnt bother
looking for 18's, wont put those on till next summer so if
the
5000's do
not come in 18's ill have to make a change ;) after looking
over
your
numbers and the price diff i think in 17's the dunlop are a better
choice,
but im out of the 18's side of things (till the summer at least
;) )
I
think its a great idea to log this one, get some input on all the diff
tires
out there! make the next persons tire choice much easier.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 23:30:44
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Let's hear it for Pirelli
The statement below -- especially the
line, "Treadwear ratings are
assigned by the manufacturers following field
testing and are most
accurate when comparing tires of the same brand" means
that a Dunlop
tire with a treadwear rating of 140 will not exactly be the
same as a
Pirelli tire with a treadwear rating of 140. However, a
Pirelli P-Zero
and a Pirelli P7000 both with treadwear of 140 WILL be
comparable since
they are from the same manufacturer. (Who knows how
much difference
there is from Bridgestone to Firestone
though.)
>From the TireRack webpage,
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/general/utqg.htm"The
Department of Transportation requires each manufacturer to grade
its tires
under the Uniform Tire Quality Grade (UTQG) labeling system
and establish
ratings for treadwear, traction, and temperature
resistance. These tests are
conducted independently by each manufacturer
following government guidelines
to assign values that represent a
comparison between the tested tire and a
control tire. While traction
and temperature resistance ratings are specific
performance levels, the
treadwear ratings are assigned by the manufacturers
following field
testing and are most accurate when comparing tires of the
same brand."
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002
16:05
BTW: Darren, how is the DOT hardness rating not
indicative of the wear
the tires are going to have? There's a set of
"numbers" for you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 00:12:50
EST
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Ignition problems
Recently, I posted some questions re: ignition problems
that I thought were
related to the ECU, and per consensus, I replaced the
capacitors in the ECU
with higher voltage rated caps of the same
microfareds. Anyway, the ignition
problem continues, somwhat to my
dismay. Here are the symptoms again - rough
idle, tach jumping, loss
of power on accelleration and most recently, the
ugly "check engine" light
has reared its head, and though it used to blink,
now stays on steady.
These symptoms do not come upon the car right away, but
only after it has
been run 10-20 minutes, sometimes at no more than an idle.
The car is in
storage at home and off the road for the winter, so no street
runs, I'm
afraid of snow in this car, on the outside chance we actually ever
see any
this year in CT. :-)
Okay, so I ran the codes and got five longs and
three shorts, which lead me
to the coil pack for cylinders 3/6, which are
the frontmost of the three,
which I removed and tested per the manual. Also,
I took the opportunity to re
move the transistor power unit and the resistor
near the battery (for turbo
models only, apparently). Anyway, the
tests on all three units came back
within specifications (although the
variation between the secondary
resistance on the three coils were each a
little different by about 250 ohms.)
And yes, I checked all of the
connections, which seemed to be okay, no
corrosion to speak of. The
only remarkable physical condition was the 3/6
coil, which had a "mild"
delamination burp in the protective coating near the
bottom (low voltage)
connections, which are red and blue on my car. (1991
Stealth R/T Turbo
AWD)
So, given that the ignition problems only occur after the car has
been run a
while, I think it is heat/fatigue related in some way. Is
there anybody that
tests these parts under load/usage? I could simply
buy replacements, but
rather than waste money buying three parts, I'd rather
have them tested.
Also, I would like to send the ECU to the same place
to rule that out as
well.
Any recommendations?
Thanks,
-
-Thor
(1991 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo, no mods other than K&N FIPK and
new gauges)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 00:16:07
EST
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Iginition problem follow up
I forgot to post in my earlier query that the
manifold pressure, which is
usually about 12 psi, has been stuck at 6 psi
since the ignition problem
began. I assume that the ECU has been
tripped into some sort of "safe" or
"limp home" mode that renders the boost
control circuit inoperative.
Again, thanks for any help. Driving
around on four cylinders sucks,
especially when I have two other perfectly
good ones just waiting for some
fire.
- -Thor
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 21:24:33
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ignition problems
Did you try moving the 'bad' coil pac to a different
location and see if the
OBD finds an error in the new location.
What
happens when you reset the ECU --- does the boost go back up
???
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
ThorHolth@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, January 07, 2002 9:12 PM
Subject: Team3S: Ignition
problems
> Recently, I posted some questions re: ignition problems
that I thought were
> related to the ECU, and per consensus, I replaced
the capacitors in the ECU
> with higher voltage rated caps of the same
microfareds. Anyway, the ignition
> problem continues, somwhat to
my dismay. Here are the symptoms again - rough
> idle, tach
jumping, loss of power on accelleration and most recently, the
> ugly
"check engine" light has reared its head, and though it used to blink,
>
now stays on steady. These symptoms do not come upon the car right away,
but
> only after it has been run 10-20 minutes, sometimes at no more than
an idle.
> The car is in storage at home and off the road for the winter,
so no street
> runs, I'm afraid of snow in this car, on the outside
chance we actually ever
> see any this year in CT. :-)
>
>
> Okay, so I ran the codes and got five longs and three shorts, which
lead me
> to the coil pack for cylinders 3/6, which are the frontmost of
the three,
> which I removed and tested per the manual. Also, I took the
opportunity to re
> move the transistor power unit and the resistor near
the battery (for turbo
> models only, apparently). Anyway, the
tests on all three units came back
> within specifications (although the
variation between the secondary
> resistance on the three coils were each
a little different by about 250 ohms.)
>
> And yes, I checked all
of the connections, which seemed to be okay, no
> corrosion to speak
of. The only remarkable physical condition was the 3/6
> coil,
which had a "mild" delamination burp in the protective coating near the
>
bottom (low voltage) connections, which are red and blue on my car. (1991
> Stealth R/T Turbo AWD)
>
> So, given that the ignition
problems only occur after the car has been run a
> while, I think it is
heat/fatigue related in some way. Is there anybody that
> tests
these parts under load/usage? I could simply buy replacements, but
> rather than waste money buying three parts, I'd rather have them
tested.
> Also, I would like to send the ECU to the same place to
rule that out as
> well.
>
> Any recommendations?
>
> Thanks,
> -Thor
>
> (1991 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo,
no mods other than K&N FIPK and new gauges)
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 00:29:54
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Fwd: Need to subscribe
I have been trying for several days to contact all
Admins, including Bob
Forrest and Geoff Mohler, to ask to have my work email
address subscribed
to this list as well. Please respond.
Thanks.
Philip
>>Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 00:29:41
-0600
>>To:
Team3S@bobforrest.com;
jim@the-matthews.com;
vr4@bahnhof.se;
>>robby@rtec.ch;
jeff.mohler@netapp.com;
>>From:
"Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
>>Subject:
Need to subscribe
>>
>>Hi guys,
>>
>>I tried
to subscribe my work address,
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com, to the
>>Team3S list both the regular and the digest versions but I could
not. I
>>sent a request to Bob's email
bf@bobforrest.com and then owner-Team3s@
>>and both came back with errors. So I am contacting his other
address, I
>>doubt it would work, so I am contacting the rest of the
Admin team as
>>well. Please subscribe me. It would be nice if you
also fix this problem
>>in case someone else wants to join the list as
well. Thanks.
>>
>>Philip Glazatov
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 19:17:29
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine stuttering/Tach Jumping
My previous reply to your
problem
Steve
> Personally I dont think that a bad ECU is the
cause of your problem. I had
> problems like that on my old 351 Cleveland.
A bad plug, bad plug lead,
> faulty coil all possibilities. On the
Cleveland I had tracking on the
dizzy
> cap and on another occasion a
bad pionts condenser ( capacitor ) all
caused
> the same
problem.
> Sure rebuild the ECU it will need doing anyway. Add
solder to the old
caps
> before you remove them and remember to
clean the crud off the board after
> you've removed the old caps.
Leave the new caps standing high off the
board
> so you can solder them
on both sides of the board. Good luck.
>
>
Steve
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 00:23:50
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fwd: Need to subscribe
> I have been trying for several days
to contact all Admins, including Bob
Forrest and Geoff Mohler, to ask to have
my work email address subscribed to
this list as well. Please respond.
Thanks.
> Philip
- ----------------------------
Hey,
Philip,
Apologies for the delays... I was away for close to a month
with a family
emergency, during which time I had no email for over 10 days
(inept ISP
server switch). I've taken care of subscribing you to both
the Digest and
Main Lists.
If anyone else tried to reach me during the
last 2 weeks, please resend your
note, since all that email was
lost.
Best,
Forrest
> >>Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002
00:29:41 -0600
> >>To:
Team3S@bobforrest.com;
jim@the-matthews.com;
vr4@bahnhof.se;
> >>
robby@rtec.ch;
jeff.mohler@netapp.com;
>
>>From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
>
>>Subject: Need to subscribe
> >>
> >>Hi
guys,
> >>I tried to subscribe my work address,
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com, to
the
> >>Team3S list both the regular and the digest versions but I
could not. I
> >>sent a request to Bob's email
bf@bobforrest.com and then
owner-Team3s@
> >>and both came back with errors. So I am contacting
his other address, I
> >>doubt it would work, so I am contacting the
rest of the Admin team as
> >>well. Please subscribe me. It would be
nice if you also fix this problem
> >>in case someone else wants to
join the list as well. Thanks.
> >>Philip
Glazatov
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 06:44:54
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fwd: Need to subscribe
Hi Forrest,
I am glad that you are
back with us and I hope that your family is better
now. Sorry that I had to
bother everyone with this request. Thanks for
subscribing
me.
Philip
At 02:23 AM 01/08/02, Bob Forrest wrote:
>Hey,
Philip,
>
>Apologies for the delays... I was away for close to
a month with a family
>emergency, during which time I had no email for
over 10 days (inept ISP
>server switch). I've taken care of
subscribing you to both the Digest and
>Main Lists.
>
>If
anyone else tried to reach me during the last 2 weeks, please resend
your
>note, since all that email was
lost.
>
>Best,
>
>Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 11:19:50
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ignition problems
>So, given that the ignition problems
only occur after the car has been run a
>while, I think it is heat/fatigue
related in some way. Is there anybody that
>tests these parts under
load/usage? I could simply buy replacements, but
>rather than waste
money buying three parts, I'd rather have them tested.
>Also, I would like
to send the ECU to the same place to rule that out
as
>well.
>
>Any recommendations?
Replace the coil pack
with a used, newer one or install the MSD Amp with
Accell coil
pack.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 06:29:26
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Grills
Hi Eric,
Here are pics of the screens on my
cars. Pick up some
storm door Al screening at your local hardware
store
and cut a piece to fit. Or you could use Stainless
Steel
screening.
Cut screen about 1 to 2 inches larger and form it
around
the backside of the foglight/IC opening. Use
construction adhesive
(liquid nails) to secure it in
place. Or you can use Al pop
rivets. Make sure you
rough up the back surface and clean with
something
like lacquer thinner.
In addition, you could wear a
bra.
See you on the track sometime when I get my engines
fixed.
)-:) Hope to make Road Atlanta March 9&10.
Be of good
cheer in the New Year,
John
- ---
daedel@mac.com wrote:
> I bought a set on
ebay for my 94. It looks really
> good and has little
> sticky pads
on it to keep the grills in place. Its
> just steel chicken
> mesh,
but thats all thats really needed. I'll email
> privately with the
> name of the seller when I find his name.
>
>
-David
>
>
> On Monday, January 7, 2002, at 07:15 PM, Gross,
Erik
> wrote:
>
> > So is anyone making grills (stainless,
painted, or
> otherwise protected)
> > for
> > the
front and side openings on our cars? As in
> the radiator opening,
> > the IC
> > openings, and the side (mildly functionally)
rear
> brake inlets? I know
> > there were some for sale on
3si a while back, but
> AFAIK, no one is
> > currently
>
> making them. I don't want the fins on my new
> side-mount
intercoolers
> > to be
> > bent up by rocks, so I was
thinking a functional
> set of grills might be
> >
nice. Anyone know where to get them? Or where I
> can
get high-quality
> > parts to make them?
> >
> >
--Erik
> > '95 VR-4
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 09:06:56
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ignition problems
Okay, it's official, my 1st gen ECM is
dead. I replaced the
capacitors, but to no avail. It started yesterday
when it got to Satan's
but later in the day it was dead - not communicating
at all.
$1100 for replacement Mitsubishi ECM - What aftermarket ECM
could I
get that is a total replacement and how many $? Junk yard is a
poor
alternative in this case.
Chuck Willis
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 09:15:36
-0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tranny parts supplier (?)
I called "Alltrans". They are
just a tranny reman shop and only sell used
synchros, gears, etc. They
can get new output shafts(18 or 25-spline not
OEM) and sleeves for
$500/set. He didn't know the hardness of the shafts,
but said that
they were at least as hard as the stockers. Rebuilt trannys
are
~$2200.
Oh well..another source for used parts and rebuild
services. I would still
recommend Kormex for most of our tranny
needs.
Mark
'91RT/TT
>From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
> >
This vehicle has not been repaired yet we are still waiting
> > for
parts to come. Turns out you can repair these units if
> > anyone needs
info on parts & avail call Alltrans at 800 922
> > 9562.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Join
the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 09:43:38
-0600
From:
overclck@ies.net (Cody
Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ignition problems
I suppose you could be
the first guinea pig (that I know of) to try the
AEM. It looks and supposedly
is a full ECM/ECU replacement.
- -Cody
(I wanna try one, but don't
have $1300 laying around right now, maybe
this summer)
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent:
Tuesday, January 08, 2002 9:07 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Ignition problems
Okay, it's official, my 1st gen ECM is
dead. I replaced the
capacitors, but to no avail. It started yesterday
when it got to
Satan's
but later in the day it was dead - not
communicating at all.
$1100 for replacement Mitsubishi ECM - What
aftermarket ECM
could I
get that is a total replacement and how many
$? Junk yard is a poor
alternative in this case.
Chuck
Willis
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 11:49:25
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Grills
Check on the 3si "Parts for Sale" section. There is a
guy making for 1st and
2nd generation. I think this is the thread.
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=f542cedcf25dd2bc9cce56e7b8324506&threadid=47702&highlight=front+grille
Good
luck
Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: John Christian [mailto:jczoom_619@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, January 08, 2002 2:29 PM
To:
daedel@mac.com;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Grills
Hi Eric,
Here are pics of the screens on my cars.
Pick up some
storm door Al screening at your local hardware store
and cut
a piece to fit. Or you could use Stainless
Steel screening.
Cut
screen about 1 to 2 inches larger and form it
around the backside of the
foglight/IC opening. Use
construction adhesive (liquid nails) to secure
it in
place. Or you can use Al pop rivets. Make sure you
rough
up the back surface and clean with something
like lacquer thinner.
In
addition, you could wear a bra.
See you on the track sometime when I get
my engines
fixed. )-:) Hope to make Road Atlanta March
9&10.
Be of good cheer in the New Year,
John
- ---
daedel@mac.com wrote:
> I bought a set on
ebay for my 94. It looks really
> good and has little
> sticky pads
on it to keep the grills in place. Its
> just steel chicken
> mesh,
but thats all thats really needed. I'll email
> privately with the
> name of the seller when I find his name.
>
>
-David
>
>
> On Monday, January 7, 2002, at 07:15 PM, Gross,
Erik
> wrote:
>
> > So is anyone making grills (stainless,
painted, or
> otherwise protected)
> > for
> > the
front and side openings on our cars? As in
> the radiator opening,
> > the IC
> > openings, and the side (mildly functionally)
rear
> brake inlets? I know
> > there were some for sale on
3si a while back, but
> AFAIK, no one is
> > currently
>
> making them. I don't want the fins on my new
> side-mount
intercoolers
> > to be
> > bent up by rocks, so I was
thinking a functional
> set of grills might be
> >
nice. Anyone know where to get them? Or where I
> can
get high-quality
> > parts to make them?
> >
> >
--Erik
> > '95 VR-4
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 07:59:38
-0800 (PST)
From: Casey Rayman <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wanted: Springs
I want a set of lowerings springs(RSR, Eibach,
Groundcontrol, etc.)
for my VR-4. I would also entertain a full set of
TIEN or other
coilovers as well. If anyone has a set they want to part
with let me
know. If no one has anything I'll probably order a set at
the end of
this month.
Casey
Dallas, TX
'92 Silver
VR-4
__________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 09:12:38
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ignition problems
Try M & S at 800-695-4700 for a
replacement.
AEM or GT Pro for a new one.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002
8:07 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Ignition problems
Okay, it's official, my 1st gen ECM
is dead. I replaced the
capacitors, but to no avail. It started
yesterday when it got to Satan's
but later in the day it was dead - not
communicating at all.
$1100 for replacement Mitsubishi ECM - What
aftermarket ECM could I
get that is a total replacement and how many $?
Junk yard is a poor
alternative in this case.
Chuck
Willis
>
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*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 10:15:20
-0600
From:
overclck@ies.net (Cody
Graham)
Subject: Team3S: Struts
I know there is a ton of info in the
archives on these, but I need new
struts.
I already have Intrax
springs, and I don't wanna do coilovers, unless
it's something like the Tein
setup. What other adjustable strut
replacement options do I have.
Aren't the GAB's Extremely hard to get a
hold of. And the KYB's aren't
adjustable, correct??? What else is
there?
And, one other
thing, this is for a N/A, so keep that in mind too...
-
-Cody
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 11:27:36
-0500
From: "Mark Creekmore" <
mark.creekmore@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wanted: Springs
I have the Camber/Caster plates for the
Ground Control setup if anyone is
interested. They have been sitting on a
shelf for two years and I don't
think that I'll ever get around to installing
them.
Mark
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Casey Rayman
Sent: Tuesday,
January 08, 2002 11:00 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Wanted: Springs
I want a set of lowerings springs(RSR,
Eibach, Groundcontrol, etc.)
for my VR-4. I would also entertain a full
set of TIEN or other
coilovers as well. If anyone has a set they want
to part with let me
know. If no one has anything I'll probably order a
set at the end of
this month.
Casey
Dallas, TX
'92 Silver
VR-4
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Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 11:57:45
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tranny parts supplier (?)
I absolutely agree on the Kormex
comment. Never hurts to keep the eyes open
though! Thanks
Mark!
Ken
Mark Wendlandt wrote:
> I called
"Alltrans". They are just a tranny reman shop and only sell used
>
synchros, gears, etc. They can get new output shafts(18 or 25-spline
not
> OEM) and sleeves for $500/set. He didn't know the hardness of
the shafts,
> but said that they were at least as hard as the stockers.
Rebuilt trannys
> are ~$2200.
>
> Oh well..another source for
used parts and rebuild services. I would still
> recommend Kormex
for most of our tranny needs.
>
> Mark
>
'91RT/TT
>
> >From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
>
> >
> This vehicle has not been repaired yet we are still waiting
> >
> for parts to come. Turns out you can repair these units if
> >
> anyone needs info on parts & avail call Alltrans at 800 922
>
> > 9562.
> > >
>
>
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the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
>
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>
*** Info:
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- --
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White Stealth RT/TT
3Si Rochester
(NY)
FIPK, HKS Dual Exhaust
AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky
Injection
Improved Precats
HKS SSBOV
Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight
17"
6 speed conversion, RPS Stage II
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
007KEN spark plug
plate, license plates
ASC sunroof, white Ram emblem
Best (pathetic)
time:
13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/ poorly tuned
alky)
_________________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 13:17:51
-0600
From:
overclck@ies.net (Cody
Graham)
Subject: Team3S: Intermittent Wiper
Weird problem
here...
Windshield Wipers work perfectly on higher 2 settings, but on the
lowest
setting (which is variable), no matter where the variable knob is,
the
wipers "Stick" either in the upwards or downwards position. Not
every
time, but 1 out of 15 wipes maybe. I have no clue how the
circuit
works, but was hoping someone could explain to me where to
look. Are
there external relays for this type of thing, or am I needing
to buy a
new motor, or maybe just clean the hell outta the internals on this
one?
One addition is that once they get "stuck" it makes no matter
what
position you put the wiper control on, as they do not move until
you
physically push them a few inches. After that, normal
operation
resumes, unless its on the intermittent, and after another 15
wipes,
they will stick again (15 is an average number).
-
-Cody
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 11:54:55
-0800
From: ARMIN MEIER <
guetch@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
intermittent wiper
Cody,
This appears to be a problem of worn
brushes on the motor or an open in the
armature commutator.
The inertia
on full speed is enough to move it to the next conductive
bar.
So, what to do? Remove the motor and examine the brushes for
tightness i/e
wear. check the commutator for any flat spots or burn
marks.
Check the wire connections on the commutator bars. In the old days
they
soldered them now they are crimpt. The crimpt ones with loose
connections
can be soldered. Take the meter leads in the ohm setting and hold
them on
the com. like brushes would and turn it slowly. do you see the
breaks?
Armin
Stealth 94 rt
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 12:46:45
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Carbon/Carbon brake update
Moving along well now. The
prototype kit is dont for a TT supra, ans is
in shipping for track
testing.
The pads are pretty simple, carbon plates attached to backing
plates.
The rotors..are internally stock style rotors, but heavilly
machined to
act as a backbone and core to grow the carbon onto.
The
rotors will be thicker than OEM, with the pads thinner than
OEM.
So..thats what I know as of today.
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 17:25:01
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ignition problems
Sounds like 02 sensors/ bad injectors to
me.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From:
ThorHolth@aol.com <
ThorHolth@aol.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, January 08, 2002 5:14 AM
Subject: Team3S: Ignition
problems
>Recently, I posted some questions re: ignition problems
that I thought were
>related to the ECU, and per consensus, I replaced the
capacitors in the ECU
>with higher voltage rated caps of the same
microfareds. Anyway, the
ignition
>problem continues, somwhat to
my dismay. Here are the symptoms again -
rough
>idle, tach
jumping, loss of power on accelleration and most recently, the
>ugly
"check engine" light has reared its head, and though it used to
blink,
>now stays on steady. These symptoms do not come upon the car
right away,
but
>only after it has been run 10-20 minutes, sometimes at
no more than an
idle.
>The car is in storage at home and off the road
for the winter, so no street
>runs, I'm afraid of snow in this car, on the
outside chance we actually
ever
>see any this year in CT.
:-)
>
>
>Okay, so I ran the codes and got five longs and three
shorts, which lead me
>to the coil pack for cylinders 3/6, which are the
frontmost of the three,
>which I removed and tested per the manual. Also,
I took the opportunity to
re
>move the transistor power unit and the
resistor near the battery (for turbo
>models only, apparently).
Anyway, the tests on all three units came back
>within specifications
(although the variation between the secondary
>resistance on the three
coils were each a little different by about 250
ohms.)
>
>And
yes, I checked all of the connections, which seemed to be okay,
no
>corrosion to speak of. The only remarkable physical condition
was the 3/6
>coil, which had a "mild" delamination burp in the protective
coating near
the
>bottom (low voltage) connections, which are red and
blue on my car. (1991
>Stealth R/T Turbo AWD)
>
>So, given
that the ignition problems only occur after the car has been
run
a
>while, I think it is heat/fatigue related in some way. Is
there anybody
that
>tests these parts under load/usage? I could
simply buy replacements, but
>rather than waste money buying three parts,
I'd rather have them tested.
>Also, I would like to send the ECU to the
same place to rule that out as
>well.
>
>Any
recommendations?
>
>Thanks,
>-Thor
>
>(1991 Dodge
Stealth R/T Turbo, no mods other than K&N FIPK and new
gauges)
>
>*** Info:
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 16:39:00
-0600
From: Drew Mouton <
drew@irev2.com>
Subject: Team3S: Was:
Ahh, sh*t, dead car (electrical prob...pointers?)
Hey All,
Yesterday I
had a battery terminal clamp go bad...simple little $2 part
joining the
negative battery post to the car. However, due to some
strange symptoms I
skipped quickly through a thorough check of the
_simple_ things because I
thought I had an idea of what was wrong (that
it was related to a relay). So
I composed a long description of the
problem looking for some tech advice -
below - but fortunately postponed
sending it until today.
So: posting
this now is just by way of public service announcement,
reminding people not
to be stupid and in a hurry like I was (and also to
get these symptoms into
the list archive).
Cheers,
Drew
- ---------------------
Hey
All,
I just walked out to a car that is electrically dead: and while I'm
searching the archives for pointers, I thought I'd post and hope somebody
knows about this apparently deadly but trivially easy problem to fix.
(Right?)
The setup: just last summer I became a 3000GT convert for
the first time
(switching from a whole series of German 3-series
road-and-occasionally-track cars). It's a '92 3000GT, NA, 120K miles, no
significant upgrades from stock (yet) other than the oversized kicker box
and amp under the hatch that the previous owner wired and installed
(poorly, I might add) and the semi-junky Toshiba head unit controlling
it. Everything else seems to be stock.
Until about two weeks ago I'd
been driving it daily, and hadn't had a
problem since I bought it. Did some
minor maintenance stuff: new pads and
rotors, bulbs, fuel system clean out,
shift boot, flushed fluids and
lubed, etc.
Two weeks ago I blew out a
tire - then, while driving on the donut blew
out another one. So it's been
mostly sitting since then while I look for
new wheels and tires, although
I've started it up once in a while to keep
it in use. Although it's been
rather chilly lately, the 'cold' around
here still only dips into the high
30s (living in New Orleans has its
perks).
This morning I cranked it
and let it run for about 10 Minutes. Worked
fine. This evening I tried to do
the same thing:
- - turned the key to acc, dash and dummy lights come on
(normal)
- - turn the key to ign, and everything goes dark. Everything. No
response
to key turns. (not normal)
- - check the battery (fine)
- -
check the fuses under the dash (fine)
- - wait 2-5 minutes
- - apparently
without doing anything but waiting, dash and rear lights
start
blinking...actually flashing about the same speed as the hazards do.
- - this
happens with or without the key being in. Nothing I do seems to
affect it,
EXCEPT:
- - turn the key to ign again, and the same thing happens. Everything
goes
dark.
At first I'm thinking to myself that perhaps I have the
anti-theft option
and the PO didn't bother to mention it, and I conveniently
never
triggered it. I'm mostly dismissing that as an option.
It
sounds like a bad relay, since the light flashing is regular and
consistent,
but I'm not convinced. Also, like an idiot, I'd never gotten
around to
buying the service manual, so I'm shooting in the dark for
troubleshooting.
Anyone out there have some pointers? I'm going
through the list archives
now...
Thanks,
Drew
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 17:59:35
-0700
From: "Zach Sauerman" <
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Dayco Poly Cog belt
Good evening all,
Quick question. I had a
frantic finish to my waterpump/timing belt
replacement last week. I was not
able to replace the alternator-a/c belt
because CarQuest gave me one that
was (or seemed) too small. It was not that
much smaller than the belt I had
removed, but for the life of me I could not
get it to fit on the car. I
didn't have the time to go back to CarQuest
before leaving town.
Now I
have a Dayco Poly Cog belt from Advance Auto Parts. The number on it
is
5050490. This one also seems small- although I have not climbed under the
girl yet to check it out because of my parking arrangement. It seems to be
very similar to the belt I had gotten earlier.
I am concerned because the
belt on the car has the tensioner pully very far
along its track to give
adequate tension, yet with it all the way out I
could not fit the CarQuest
belt on. Before I fight this one, maybe there is
a trick that somebody knows
and could share with me? Please?
Thank you.
Respectfully,
Zach
Sauerman
'94 Pearl Yellow
TT
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
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#720
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