Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, January 4
2002 Volume 01 : Number
717
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jan 2002 23:11:55 -0800
From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
After talking with
someone at NGK, he recommended the following sku numbers:
R5672A-8 or
R5671A-8
They're both copper and 1 or 2 heat ranges colder.
Can anyone
out there confirm if these are the right part numbers for a
vr4?
Thanks,
Noble
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Black, Dave (ICT) <
dblai@allstate.com>
To: Team3s
(E-mail) <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 03, 2002 2:59 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Knock, detonation,
pre-ignition (kinda long)
> Matt,
>
> Then what would
the appropriate plug gaps be for the colder plugs? Do you
> have the
part numbers for the copper plugs?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dave
95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jannusch, Matt
[SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002
3:22 PM
> > To: Team3s (E-mail)
> > Subject: RE: Team3S:
Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
> >
> > > On a
followup note, are there plugs other than stock NGK
> > > Platinum
that should be used? Are the stock NGK's cold
> > > enough for
high-boost applications?
> >
> > The stock NGK's are too hot
for high-boost applications and are probably
> > contributing to all
the knock that we see at boost levels higher than
> > 15psi.
>
> How much of the knock it might be causing needs to be researched, but
in
> > general for every 100 HP increase over stock you should go one
range
> > colder.
> >
> > I'm switching to copper
NGK's 2 ranges colder than stock. I'll have to
> > report my
experience with them after the car gets reassembled. They'll
> >
need
> > to be changed probably every 12-15,000 miles but it isn't that
difficult
> > after you've done it a couple times. If you choose
a range that's too
> > cold
> > then the plugs might foul if
you don't drive hard enough (ie: spend a
lot
> > of
> >
time idling in heavy traffic). We'll have to experiment to find a
happy
> > medium for the plug temperatures, and each car will probably
be a little
> > different.
> >
> > On a happy note -
my rods are done. Reassmbly should commence this
> >
weekend.
> > :-)
> >
> > -Matt
> > '95
3000GT Spyder VR4
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 22:12:47
-0700
From: "Derek Costen" <
heatongoal@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: knock?
<html><div
style='background-color:'><DIV>HI, my name is derek and I have a 94
stealth tt. I seem to have alot of lifter noise. Some days
it sounds alot worse than normal. (sounds like a big knock, especially at higher
rpms) I was wondering if it is normal to happen?</DIV></div><br
clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 22:17:51
-0700
From: "Derek Costen" <
heatongoal@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: loss of horsepower
<html><div
style='background-color:'><DIV>I have lost alot of horsepower since i
bought my car 6 months ago. I was wondering when should
things be rebuilt and how u can tell. Such as my turbo's. what would be a cause
of alot of
horsepower?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>derek</DIV>
<DIV>94
stealth tt</DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Join the world’s
largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. <a
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 21:33:39
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Turbo combustion chamber volume
I had my reworked turbo heads CC'd and
and they came in at 45cc.
Any info on stock numbers and does 45 sound
reasonable. The heads
were milled but I have no idea how
much.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 23:57:49
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
> Then what
would the appropriate plug gaps be for the colder
> plugs? Do you
have the part numbers for the copper plugs?
Gaps won't change - use
whatever the widest gap you can get away with
without misfires. I had
been using .032" gaps on mine with boost levels up
to 19 psi on race fuel and
didn't have misfire problems.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 00:04:34
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: loss of horsepower
> I have lost alot of horsepower since
i bought my car 6
> months ago. I was wondering when should things
be
> rebuilt and how u can tell. Such as my turbo's. what
> would be
a cause of alot of horsepower?
It is probably from the knocking
noises you mentioned in your other message.
That'll set off the knock sensor
if the tapping is bad enough and cause
big-time power losses. If it is
lifters (and you are reasonably sure it
isn't some other more serious
problem) then try running some lighter weight
oil in the car for a couple
hundred miles (0W30 weight works good) to try to
flush the crud out of the
lifters. Sometimes that helps. There are other
concoctions you
can try (Seafoam, etc.). Make sure you are using good
quality oil of
the viscosity recommended in the manual as well (10W30 in
most cases).
Using thicker oils can cause lifter tapping also.
Mobil-1 10W30 synthetic
is a good oil for these cars...
Hope some of that helps...
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 02:28:16
-0500
From: "Aamer" <
aamer.mail@verizon.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: knock?
Derek, lifter noise is a very common problem on these
cars. From my
experience and from what I've read on previous threads on this
list, most of
the time this problem is more annoying than it is
dangerous.
You can usually get rid of it with a simple oil change. I
would occasionally
get very loud ticking, so I ran some Gunk Motor Flush
through my car and
I've never gotten loud ticking since.
Some people have
also tried replacing 1/4 of their motor oil with automatic
transmission fluid
for about a thousand miles -- people have told me that
they have generally
had good results doing this, but I cannot verify how
safe or effective this
is.
I don't recall anyone on the list doing this, but if the problem gets
really
bad, you could try taking out the lifters and soaking them in carb
cleaner
overnight. Finally, I believe they improved the lifter design after
your car
was made, so you may be able to replace your lifters with the
improved ones.
However, I don't think you should have to resort to this
option.
Also, make sure to check out this simple yet effective procedure
provided in
the Team3S faq:
http://www.team3s.com/FAQliftertick.htmP.S.
As for your second message about horsepower loss, I think everyone on
here
would agree that you need to be more specific about the symptoms your
are
experiencing before anyone can give you useful advice.
Aamer Abbas
'94
3000GT (DOHC -- Naturally Aspirated)
email:
aamer@thepentagon.comfax: (707)
982-8817 [add +1 country code if faxing from outside the
USA]
===================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Derek Costen
To:
TEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.STSent:
Friday, January 04, 2002 12:12 AM
Subject: Team3S: knock?
HI, my
name is derek and I have a 94 stealth tt. I seem to have alot of
lifter
noise. Some days it sounds alot worse than normal. (sounds like a
big
knock, especially at higher rpms) I was wondering if it is normal
to
happen?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 02:48:27
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Lifter tick (was: knock?)
Heh. The topic creeps up
again. And as much as my name is on the FAQ
page I am in no way an
expert on the subject. However, I have dealt
with it in several ways
and the result is always the same ... the
ticking sound comes back
everytime.
This morning the ticking was because it was 20 degrees and
everything
was cold. After checking the tires for cold air pressure the
ticking
stopped after I was three tires through the check.
Other days
it is 80 degrees and the ticking is there as well. Sometimes
it takes
revving the engine to over 3,000 rpm for a few seconds or going
to 6k, then
5.5k, then 5k, etc. down to idle speed. Everyone's car is
different
because everyone has different oil, mods, weather, etc. Just
try some
cheap steps first to see if it works. I don't know how much
different
the lifter tick is for an NA car vs. a TT or one with mods vs.
those without,
etc. All I know is that at any gathering when everyone
fires up their
cars ... you can walk down the line and about 90% of them
have the
tick.
Go with draining some oil and replacing with good oil (like
Mobil1
synthetic) so you know that the new oil is not the problem. Then
start
working from there (drain the rest of the oil, change the oil
filter,
clean lifters, run a flushing agent, etc.). I have noted that
the
ticking gets louder as the level of oil drops (2 quarts low and it
is
REAL loud but a 1/4 quart over full and it is much quieter).
Give
us your feedback though as we keep learning from those who try this
and we'll
keep updating the FAQ page. If you have something special
then
certainly let me know off list and I will see what I can do to
help.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Aamer
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 2:28 AM
Derek, lifter noise is a
very common problem on these cars. From my
experience and from what I've read
on previous threads on this list,
most of the time this problem is more
annoying than it is dangerous.
You can usually get rid of it with a
simple oil change. I would
occasionally get very loud ticking, so I ran some
Gunk Motor Flush
through my car and I've never gotten loud ticking since.
Some people
have also tried replacing 1/4 of their motor oil with
automatic
transmission fluid for about a thousand miles -- people have told
me
that they have generally had good results doing this, but I
cannot
verify how safe or effective this is.
I don't recall anyone on
the list doing this, but if the problem gets
really bad, you could try taking
out the lifters and soaking them in
carb cleaner overnight. Finally, I
believe they improved the lifter
design after your car was made, so you may
be able to replace your
lifters with the improved ones. However, I don't
think you should have
to resort to this option.
Also, make sure to
check out this simple yet effective procedure
provided in the Team3S faq:
http://www.team3s.com/FAQliftertick.htmP.S.
As for your second message about horsepower loss, I think everyone
on here
would agree that you need to be more specific about the symptoms
your are
experiencing before anyone can give you useful advice.
Aamer Abbas
'94
3000GT (DOHC -- Naturally Aspirated)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:14:57
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
Matt, something
you want to be very aware of is one the coppers only
last about 10K (my MKIV
went through NGK 3330's every 12 K) On our cars
changing the plugs is
more than a matter of removing 6 bolts, a cover, and
then the plugs.
Changing our plugs takes WORK :(
> The stock NGK's are too hot
for high-boost applications and are probably
> contributing to all the
knock that we see at boost levels higher than
> 15psi.
> How much of
the knock it might be causing needs to be researched, but in
> general for
every 100 HP increase over stock you should go one range
> colder.
>
> I'm switching to copper NGK's 2 ranges colder than stock. I'll
have to
> report my experience with them after the car gets
reassembled. They'll
> need
> to be changed probably every
12-15,000 miles but it isn't that difficult
> after you've done it a
couple times. If you choose a range that's too
> cold
> then
the plugs might foul if you don't drive hard enough (ie: spend a lot
>
of
> time idling in heavy traffic). We'll have to experiment to find
a happy
> medium for the plug temperatures, and each car will probably be
a little
> different.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
>
Dave see my note to Matt above, IMHO I would get
a set of Iridium's
one heat range colder if you are at bpu/13G power
levels. If you are at
15G/357 Mag I would recommend platinum's
one range colder if it is daily
driven, coppers if it is a weekend toy/ track
queen. Beyond those power
levels you are going to have to get
creative
>
On a follow-up note, are there plugs other than stock
NGK Platinum that
should be used? Are the stock NGK's cold enough for
high-boost
applications?
Dave 95VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 08:28:59
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: loss of horsepower
mileage? has the 60K service and
timing belt replacement been done? Derek
- - this is a FAQ - and
there's a tremendous amount of info about it.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Derek Costen [SMTP:heatongoal@hotmail.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 11:18 PM
> To:
TEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.ST>
Subject: Team3S: loss of horsepower
>
> I have lost alot of
horsepower since i bought my car 6 months ago. I was
> wondering
when should things be rebuilt and how u can tell. Such as my
> turbo's.
what would be a cause of alot of horsepower?
>
>
> derek
> 94 stealth tt
>
> _____
>
> Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
Click Here
> <
http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag4_etl_EN.asp>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 07:03:51
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo combustion chamber volume
Hi Jim,
Using the
stock displacement (2972 cc or 495.333/cylinder) and stock
CR (8:1), the
combustion chamber volume (CCV) can be calculated.
The total volume
(swept volume and CCV) in the cylinder at BDC is the
8 parts (in the 8 to 1
ratio). At TDC, the CCV represents the 1 part
(in the 8 to 1 ratio).
Therefore, the swept volume equals 7 parts.
495.333 / 7 = 70.76
cc.
So at BDC total volume equals displacement plus CCV or 495.333
+
70.76 = 566.093 cc. At TDC only the CCV remains = 70.76 cc.
566.093
/ 70.76 = 8:1 compression ratio.
45 cc could be correct just for the
heads. Is there any space
remaining above the piston in the block at TDC?
What about thickness
of compressed head gasket? With the stock 91.1 mm (9.11
cm) bore, it
would only take 3.8 mm (0.38 cm, 0.15") of height to make 25 cc
of
volume (25+45=70). This does not include the volume in the
valve
reliefs in the piston crown.
V = H x PI x RxR
H = V/(PI x
RxR) = 25cm3 / (3.14159 x 4.555cmx4.555cm) = 0.3835 cm
If your block is
still available, you could try to measure these and
estimate the volume to
add to the head portion. I have a set of spare
stock heads, maybe I can fill
some chambers and see what they hold if
nobody else has the numbers handy.
But I would need to blast clean
the things; it could take a while for me to
get to it.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Thursday, January 03, 2002 10:33 PM
Subject: Team3S: Turbo combustion chamber
volume
I had my reworked turbo heads CC'd and and they came in at
45cc.
Any info on stock numbers and does 45 sound reasonable. The
heads
were milled but I have no idea how
much.
Jim
Berry
__________________________________________________
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:14:19
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
> Matt,
something you want to be very aware of is one the
> coppers only last
about 10K (my MKIV went through NGK 3330's
> every 12 K) On our
cars changing the plugs is more than a
> matter of removing 6 bolts, a
cover, and then the plugs.
> Changing our plugs takes WORK
:(
Yup, I mentioned in my message that they'd need to be changed every
12,000
to 15,000 miles. And yes, changing the plugs is more than 6
bolts and a
cover - but it isn't something that'll take you a whole afternoon
either.
About an hour is all it takes once you get used to it.
>
Dave see my note to Matt above, IMHO I would get a set
> of
Iridium's one heat range colder if you are at bpu/13G
> power
levels. If you are at 15G/357 Mag I would recommend
>
platinum's one range colder if it is daily driven, coppers if
> it is a
weekend toy/ track queen. Beyond those power levels
> you are going
to have to get creative
I wasn't able to find platinums in colder ranges
for our motors. If you've
got part numbers (that are actually
"acquirable"), please share as I'd like
to use platinums if at all
possible. I'm using copper because I just didn't
find any platinums
that were "right".
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:16:33
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
> About an
hour is all it takes once you get used to it.
>
[Willis, Charles
E.] Assuming you don't drop that darned EGR
gasket!
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 10:18:29
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
FW: Team3S: Rebuilt engines have more knock !? (kinda long)
Hey Matt,
here ya go. I bet if I called NGK I could get a plug identical to
stock
only two ranges colder and get the correct part #
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Todd D.Shelton [SMTP:tds@brightok.net]
> Sent:
Sunday, November 18, 2001 12:01 AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rebuilt engines have more knock !? (kinda long)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell
<
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
>
To: 'Todd D.Shelton' <
tds@brightok.net>
> Cc: 'Team 3S'
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: Thursday, November 15, 2001 8:03 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Rebuilt
engines have more knock !? (kinda long)
>
>
> >Yeah Todd
I know that, I am talking the part number I can walk into
>
autozone
> >and give them. It should be a 4 digit # i.e.
3330
> >
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> BCPR6ES-11 NGK Part # 6779
>
BCPR7ES-11 NGK Part# 1095
>
>
>
> - tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:41:08
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Plugs
> > BCPR6ES-11 NGK Part #
6779
> > BCPR7ES-11 NGK Part# 1095
>
Hey Matt, here ya go. I bet if I called NGK I could get a
> plug
identical to stock only two ranges colder and get the
> correct part
#
Those are copper - the ones I'm using. I was asking about the
platinum
cooler plugs you mentioned. NGK's would be "PFR7J-11" and
"PFR8J-11", if
you could get them. I've talked with a few people and
they said they didn't
have an NGK stock number for those part
numbers.
Actually, if possible you want to order them in a "-8"
version. Those would
be pregapped to .032". Wherever possible you
want to change the gap from
the plug's original gap as little as you
can.
Optimally you'd get:
BCPR6ES-8 Copper, stock heat
range, .032" gap
BCPR7ES-8 Copper, one range colder, .032"
gap
BCPR8ES-8 Copper, two range colder, .032"
gap
PFR6J-8 Platinum, stock heat range, .032"
gap
PFR7J-8 Platinum, one range colder, .032"
gap
PFR8J-8 Platinum, two range colder, .032"
gap
The only PFR plug I can find in reality is the PFR6J-11
(stock). You might
be able to use a VX Platinum BCPR6EVX-11 or
BCPR7EVX-11 for platinums (stock
and one range colder). Those are
cheaper than the stock plugs too (about
half the price - $5.13 each).
They should fit physically, but I haven't
personally used them.
On
most of those, unless you special order, you'd need to get -11's as the
other
gaps are harder to come by for some reason.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 08:22:43
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Turbo combustion chamber volume
Jeff --- thanks, but the issue is: I have
a reworked set of heads and the
chamber volume was measured at 45cc but I
don't know how close to
stock that number is. I'm ordering pistons and rods
so I needed the
volume to get the correct compression ratio on the pistons. I
guess
it doesn't make a lot of difference sense that's what the number is
--
just curious I guess.
I'm probably going to go with a compression
ratio of 7.8:1 which will
give me a little wiggle room in the setup --- it
might cost me a little
low end power but most of my racing is the open track
variety where
big end numbers are more important.
I'm not sure about
the height of the piston with respect to the deck,
I've seen numbers in the
range of .035" between the heads and the
piston but don't quote
me on that ---- if anyone knows please step
in. I don't think Venolia
requests that info so maybe there is a
standard number that they plug
in.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: Jim
Berry <
fastmax@home.com>; <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, January 04, 2002 7:03 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo combustion
chamber volume
> Hi Jim,
>
> Using the stock
displacement (2972 cc or 495.333/cylinder) and stock
> CR (8:1), the
combustion chamber volume (CCV) can be calculated.
>
> The total
volume (swept volume and CCV) in the cylinder at BDC is the
> 8 parts (in
the 8 to 1 ratio). At TDC, the CCV represents the 1 part
> (in the 8 to 1
ratio). Therefore, the swept volume equals 7 parts.
>
> 495.333 / 7
= 70.76 cc.
>
> So at BDC total volume equals displacement plus CCV
or 495.333 +
> 70.76 = 566.093 cc. At TDC only the CCV remains = 70.76
cc.
>
> 566.093 / 70.76 = 8:1 compression ratio.
>
>
45 cc could be correct just for the heads. Is there any space
> remaining
above the piston in the block at TDC? What about thickness
> of compressed
head gasket? With the stock 91.1 mm (9.11 cm) bore, it
> would only take
3.8 mm (0.38 cm, 0.15") of height to make 25 cc of
> volume (25+45=70).
This does not include the volume in the valve
> reliefs in the piston
crown.
>
> V = H x PI x RxR
> H = V/(PI x RxR) = 25cm3 /
(3.14159 x 4.555cmx4.555cm) = 0.3835 cm
>
> If your block is still
available, you could try to measure these and
> estimate the volume to add
to the head portion. I have a set of spare
> stock heads, maybe I can fill
some chambers and see what they hold if
> nobody else has the numbers
handy. But I would need to blast clean
> the things; it could take a while
for me to get to it.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
> To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
>
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 10:33 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Turbo
combustion chamber volume
>
> I had my reworked turbo heads CC'd
and and they came in at 45cc.
> Any info on stock numbers and does 45
sound reasonable. The heads
> were milled but I have no idea how
much.
>
> Jim
Berry
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
>
http://greetings.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:12:43
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo combustion chamber volume
Well unless they added
material, the volume *increased*. With no
other changes, this would
*decrease* the CR. For example (using a 1
cc increase), (566+1)/(71+1) would
be 7.875:1 as opposed to the stock
566/71 which is 8:1. The shop should have
some idea of how much
material was removed. But of course what is even more
important is
that all cylinders cc exactly the same.
Now the milling
may have reduced volume slightly and so increase CR
slightly. Hopefully, the
heads were only milled a few thousands of an
inch. 0.003" = 0.00762 cm. For a
circle the size of the bore this
would reduce volume by 0.5 cc. With no other
changes CR would change
to (566-0.5)/(71-0.5) = 8.02, almost
insignificant.
Hopefully someone can help out with a stock block with the
heads
removed for the measurements you need. As long as you are there,
you
might have your shop try optimizing the squish area
clearance
(improves "turbulence" and mixing and reduces probability
of
detonation). I'd have to look up later the optimal clearance but
they
should have this info.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
To: "Jeff Lucius"
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, January 04, 2002 9:22 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo combustion
chamber volume
Jeff --- thanks, but the issue is: I have a reworked set
of heads and
the
chamber volume was measured at 45cc but I don't know how
close to
stock that number is. I'm ordering pistons and rods so I needed
the
volume to get the correct compression ratio on the pistons. I guess
it
doesn't make a lot of difference sense that's what the number is
- --
just
curious I guess.
I'm probably going to go with a compression ratio of
7.8:1 which will
give me a little wiggle room in the setup --- it might cost
me a
little low end power but most of my racing is the open track
variety
where big end numbers are more important.
I'm not sure about
the height of the piston with respect to the deck,
I've seen numbers in the
range of .035" between the heads and the
piston but don't quote
me on that ---- if anyone knows please step
in. I don't think Venolia
requests that info so maybe there is a
standard number that they plug
in.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: Jim
Berry <
fastmax@home.com>; <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, January 04, 2002 7:03 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo combustion
chamber volume
> Hi Jim,
>
> Using the stock
displacement (2972 cc or 495.333/cylinder) and
stock
> CR (8:1), the
combustion chamber volume (CCV) can be calculated.
>
> The total
volume (swept volume and CCV) in the cylinder at BDC is
the
> 8 parts
(in the 8 to 1 ratio). At TDC, the CCV represents the 1
part
> (in the
8 to 1 ratio). Therefore, the swept volume equals 7 parts.
>
>
495.333 / 7 = 70.76 cc.
>
> So at BDC total volume equals
displacement plus CCV or 495.333 +
> 70.76 = 566.093 cc. At TDC only the
CCV remains = 70.76 cc.
>
> 566.093 / 70.76 = 8:1 compression
ratio.
>
> 45 cc could be correct just for the heads. Is there any
space
> remaining above the piston in the block at TDC? What
about
thickness
> of compressed head gasket? With the stock 91.1 mm
(9.11 cm) bore,
it
> would only take 3.8 mm (0.38 cm, 0.15") of height
to make 25 cc of
> volume (25+45=70). This does not include the volume in
the valve
> reliefs in the piston crown.
>
> V = H x PI x
RxR
> H = V/(PI x RxR) = 25cm3 / (3.14159 x 4.555cmx4.555cm) = 0.3835
cm
>
> If your block is still available, you could try to measure
these
and
> estimate the volume to add to the head portion. I have a
set of
spare
> stock heads, maybe I can fill some chambers and see what
they hold
if
> nobody else has the numbers handy. But I would need to
blast clean
> the things; it could take a while for me to get to
it.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
> To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
>
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 10:33 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Turbo
combustion chamber volume
>
> I had my reworked turbo heads CC'd
and and they came in at 45cc.
> Any info on stock numbers and does 45
sound reasonable. The heads
> were milled but I have no idea how
much.
>
> Jim
Berry
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:51:18
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: "Rocket" Fuel
From a Starnet Post....
comments?
http://home.kscable.com/ssutton/miata/engine/toluene.html***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 12:57:37
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: "Rocket" Fuel
In theory is a great idea, run into problems of
locating bulk quantities to
make this practical (i.e. daily driving)
Other problem you need to a add
some 2 cycle engine oil to the mix otherwise
it will dry out the
gaskets/lines in car fuel systems.
I am unsure on
the ratio for the oil but it was like 64:1 or 128:1
(toluene to oil
ratio)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik
[SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 12:51
PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: "Rocket"
Fuel
>
> From a Starnet Post.... comments?
>
>
http://home.kscable.com/ssutton/miata/engine/toluene.html>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 13:29:01
-0500
From: "Alan C. Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: "Rocket" Fuel
There are some thing with out cars stock
fule systesm to be conserned about.
This was discussed several months ago
on 3si.org
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?postid=369568THis
is the important quote:
"toluene dissolves/melts many plastics and rubber
compounds. There are many
rubber/plastic components in our fuel
lines"
and
"if the fuel system wasn't designed with running toluene...it
is possible it
could melt some of the rubber/plastic parts which aside from
the obvious
leakage/damage that could result directly...it could gum up the
injectors
and fuel filter causing a REAL mess or the rubber/plastic could
remain
soulubilized in the toluene/fuel mixture and percipitate out on
evaporation
in your cylinders/heads. Yes, pros use it...but they also don't
use it in
pure street cars....most of them have fuel systems with metal
fittings and
teflon parts. "
Check out the thread on 3si for more
details.
Alan
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross,
Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "Team3S
List (E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, January 04, 2002 12:51 PM
Subject: Team3S: "Rocket"
Fuel
> From a Starnet Post....
comments?
>
>
http://home.kscable.com/ssutton/miata/engine/toluene.html>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 13:49:29
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Spark plug for BPU/13G possibly 15G power levels
Ok, just got off
the phone with NGK tech help they gave me two plug options
for close to
stock but one range colder
PFR6J-11 (stock plug for our
cars)
PFR7B-? (Ralph said since nothing is listed he believes the gap
is between
.028-.030)
PFR7G-? (Same as above)
The one thing
he was not able to determine was the difference from the stock
J and the B or
G
B = Special design (whatever than means)
G = Nickel Alloy Center
Electrode (how that compares to stock I don't know)
I will be calling
Ralph back when I get home from work so we can get ahold
of one of the tech
people and look at the design diagrams and figure out
what would be closest
to stock.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 13:10:19
-0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Plugs
att,
Why do you want to run Platinum
plugs? Not only are they more expensive,
but they platinum is also
more resistive. Theoretically, you could run a
larger gap just by
switching to copper. I'm running coppers on my car (1
colder) and got
them for $1.25 at Auto Value. You are going to pay at least
$10 for
the platinums(more for colder..if you could find them) and you are
gaining
nothing. OK, some will say that you are saving because they last
longer and therefore save the labor to change them. If this is your
only
reason for running plats than maybe I should be doing your engine
rebuild
instead of you. I can change plugs in ~30min if I have a beer
in one of my
hands(AND I'm worrying about spilling). Come on
guys...changing plugs???
Run coppers and save your money for something
worth while.
BTW-
This is meant for those of us that run modified cars
not for those who own
them with no intent on modifications or pays someone
to work on their car.
Platinum plugs do have their
place/purpose.
Mark
'91RT/TT
>From: "Jannusch, Matt"
<
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>To:
"'Furman, Russell'" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
>CC:
"'Team 3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Plugs
>Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:41:08 -0600
>
>
> > BCPR6ES-11 NGK Part # 6779
> > >
BCPR7ES-11 NGK Part# 1095
>
> > Hey Matt,
here ya go. I bet if I called NGK I could get a
> > plug
identical to stock only two ranges colder and get the
> > correct part
#
>
>Those are copper - the ones I'm using. I was asking about
the platinum
>cooler plugs you mentioned. NGK's would be "PFR7J-11"
and "PFR8J-11",
if
_________________________________________________________________
Join
the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 14:20:28
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Plugs
I see your point Mark, it is as simple as this Coppers
naturally run hotter
which is insignificant if your are done modifying, I am
not... I am at the
moment going to take my car as far as I can at
BPU+++ and see what I get
(AWHP, 1/4 mile, and Road Course) If
unsatisfied I will then be trying out
various turbo combos i.e. 15G or 17G Vs
355 or 357 Mags. In doing so I want
to rule out plugs as a hindrance,
the way to do that is change that factor
as little as possible. Sounds
stupid...... maybe... This attention to
detail is why
at BPU my MKIV was approx. 9-15 RWHP higher than any equally
modded Supra in
my area. I am looking to do the same again, get the small
stuff
sorted out since everyone else seems to have taken care of the
big
stuff. Other than ECU replacement ;)
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Mark Wendlandt [SMTP:stealth_tt@hotmail.com]
>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 2:10 PM
> To:
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Plugs
>
> att,
>
> Why do you
want to run Platinum plugs? Not only are they more expensive,
> but
they platinum is also more resistive. Theoretically, you could run a
> larger gap just by switching to copper. I'm running coppers on my
car (1
> colder) and got them for $1.25 at Auto Value. You are
going to pay at
> least
> $10 for the platinums(more for colder..if
you could find them) and you are
>
> gaining nothing. OK,
some will say that you are saving because they last
> longer and
therefore save the labor to change them. If this is your only
>
reason for running plats than maybe I should be doing your engine rebuild
> instead of you. I can change plugs in ~30min if I have a beer in
one of
> my
> hands(AND I'm worrying about spilling). Come on
guys...changing plugs???
>
> Run coppers and save your money for
something worth while.
>
> BTW-
> This is meant for those of
us that run modified cars not for those who own
>
> them with no
intent on modifications or pays someone to work on their car.
>
>
Platinum plugs do have their place/purpose.
>
>
>
Mark
> '91RT/TT
>
>
> >From: "Jannusch, Matt"
<
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
>To: "'Furman, Russell'" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
>
>CC: "'Team 3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Plugs
> >Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:41:08
-0600
> >
> > > > BCPR6ES-11 NGK Part
# 6779
> > > > BCPR7ES-11 NGK Part#
1095
> >
> > > Hey Matt, here ya go. I bet if I
called NGK I could get a
> > > plug identical to stock only two
ranges colder and get the
> > > correct part #
> >
>
>Those are copper - the ones I'm using. I was asking about the
platinum
> >cooler plugs you mentioned. NGK's would be "PFR7J-11"
and "PFR8J-11", if
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Join
the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
>
http://www.hotmail.com>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 13:40:33
-0600
From:
daedel@mac.comSubject:
Team3S: Emergency Brake Light
This morning I went to go drive and when I
put down the e-brake, wallah,
the light won't turn off. I'm sure the brake
is off as I don't
decelerate (as far as I can tell) any less that the usual
and the handle
is all the way down. I'm sure this has happened to someone
else so if
any of you could be so kind as to maybe explain to me why this
happened
to you and any remedies you may have. Thanks.
-
-Dave
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 13:47:25
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Plugs
> Why do you want to run Platinum plugs? Not
only are they
> more expensive, but they platinum is also more
resistive.
I wasn't planning on running the Platinum plugs, as I already
have a few
boxes of the copper versions more just interested in if there were
any
colder range platinums that would work for some of the less modified
folks.
> If this is your only reason for running plats than
maybe
> I should be doing your engine rebuild instead of you.
I
> can change plugs in ~30min if I have a beer in one of my
>
hands(AND I'm worrying about spilling). Come on
> guys...changing
plugs???
Ouch! ;-) Nah, I don't mind changing the
plugs once a season. Like I said
before, it only takes about an hour or
less... After doing more major work
on the car, changing plugs is a
walk in the park. Probably one of the
easiest maintenance items there
is on these things. Everything else takes
multiple hours (clutches,
trannys, turbos, even gutting precats).
I don't understand why people
complain about changing plugs on these cars,
or why dealers charge so
much.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 13:48:32
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Emergency Brake Light
If I remember correctly there is a pin
switch for the e-brake located in the
back of the center council (or whatever
the arm rest thing is called). I
beleive the pin and the ebrake are
adjustable from here. My guess is the
pin is either stuck or needs to
be adjusted.
Christopher
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
<
daedel@mac.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Friday,
January 04, 2002 1:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: Emergency Brake
Light
> This morning I went to go drive and when I put down the
e-brake, wallah,
> the light won't turn off. I'm sure the brake is off as
I don't
> decelerate (as far as I can tell) any less that the usual and
the handle
> is all the way down. I'm sure this has happened to someone
else so if
> any of you could be so kind as to maybe explain to me why
this happened
> to you and any remedies you may have.
Thanks.
>
> -Dave
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 12:51:13
-0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Emergency Brake Light
Your brake fluid is
low.
Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
daedel@mac.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Friday,
January 04, 2002 12:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: Emergency Brake
Light
> This morning I went to go drive and when I put down the
e-brake, wallah,
> the light won't turn off. I'm sure the brake is off as
I don't
> decelerate (as far as I can tell) any less that the usual and
the handle
> is all the way down. I'm sure this has happened to someone
else so if
> any of you could be so kind as to maybe explain to me why
this happened
> to you and any remedies you may have. Thanks.
>
> -Dave
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 13:45:24
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Feb 11th Laguna Seca Day..
*Date; February 11 ( Monday ) 2002
start time is 7:30am - 5pm
The fee for the track day will be $250 a car /
cap of cars for more open track time, the cap is 45. If we get
a
different number of cars than i need, i will inform you so you
can pay
accordingly. Remember I'm basing the price on a fixed amount of
cars to cover
all the fees, the price will change as i get sign ups. More
cars =less money,
less cars = more money.
ALL MAKES OF CARS WELCOME.
Reply if you
wish to retain spot(s) on the list. If
you have a friend that wants to drive
his/her car please say so on your
reply , rag tops must have a roll bar. 92
DB max !
BE EXACT ON HOW MANY SPOTS YOU WANT TO RESERVE. BUT PLEASE MAKE
SURE THEY
ARE %100 GOING TO PAY AND DRIVE, ( IF I GET PEOPLE DROPPING OUT IT
WILL
CAUSE LOTS OF PROBLEMS )
YOU MUST ALSO GIVE THEM ALL THE INFO I GIVE
YOU, THEY MUST KNOW ALL THE
RULES.
any questions call
me
310-328-8941 ( after 6pm )
PATRICK SMITH
qckmr2@socal.rr.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 14:33:53
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: A/F Gauge Sensor
a.k.a. oxygen sensor :)
I'm
contemplating adding an O2 sensor to my car to monitor the A/F with
an
aftermarket gauge. Any reasons not to do this?
My car has
2 O2 sensors stock, right after the turbos, but before the
precats. I
noticed that my Stillen downpipe has 2 extra bungs welded in for
the cars
that have 4 O2 sensors - they're plugged now. Each unused bung on
my
car is about 8"-12" downstream of the stock O2 sensor. Any reason not
to
use the extra bungs to put a sensor for the gauge? Will the
additional
8-12" make a significant difference (delay) in the reading of the
gauge?
Then I don't have to worry about capacitive/inductive loads or
impedance
matching while tapping the stock sensor lines for the gauge, and
then I KNOW
I have a good O2 sensor for my gauge.
BTW, the gauge will
not (for now) be used for AFC tuning or any other
detailed tuning if that
makes a difference - I just want something to (in
addition to EGT) tell me if
I'm taxing the stock fuel system running
12-16psi of boost with water
injection (>100% intercooling efficiency,
increased vol. efficiency,
etc.)
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 18:15:19
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Plugs
Here:
R7113-8 Stock # 3650
They are
expen$ive. If anyone wants a
good deal I've got 6 with 100-200 miles on
them.
NGK Platinum RACE plugs.
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
--
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
'Furman, Russell' <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Cc:
'Team 3S' <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, January 04, 2002 9:41 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Plugs
>> > BCPR6ES-11 NGK Part #
6779
>> > BCPR7ES-11 NGK Part#
1095
>
>> Hey Matt, here ya go. I bet if I called NGK I
could get a
>> plug identical to stock only two ranges colder and get
the
>> correct part #
>
>Those are copper - the ones I'm
using. I was asking about the platinum
>cooler plugs you
mentioned. NGK's would be "PFR7J-11" and "PFR8J-11", if
>you could
get them. I've talked with a few people and they said
they
didn't
>have an NGK stock number for those part
numbers.
>
>Actually, if possible you want to order them in a "-8"
version. Those
would
>be pregapped to .032". Wherever
possible you want to change the gap from
>the plug's original gap as
little as you can.
>
>Optimally you'd
get:
>
>BCPR6ES-8 Copper, stock heat range, .032"
gap
>BCPR7ES-8 Copper, one range colder, .032"
gap
>BCPR8ES-8 Copper, two range colder, .032"
gap
>
>PFR6J-8 Platinum, stock heat range, .032"
gap
>PFR7J-8 Platinum, one range colder, .032"
gap
>PFR8J-8 Platinum, two range colder, .032"
gap
>
>The only PFR plug I can find in reality is the PFR6J-11
(stock). You might
>be able to use a VX Platinum BCPR6EVX-11 or
BCPR7EVX-11 for platinums
(stock
>and one range colder). Those
are cheaper than the stock plugs too (about
>half the price - $5.13
each). They should fit physically, but I haven't
>personally used
them.
>
>On most of those, unless you special order, you'd need to
get -11's as the
>other gaps are harder to come by for some
reason.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 17:49:22
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
'Furman, Russell' <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>; 'Team
3S'
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, January 04, 2002 9:16 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Knock, detonation,
pre-ignition (kinda long)
>I wasn't able to find platinums in
colder ranges for our motors. If you've
>got part numbers (that are
actually "acquirable"), please share as I'd like
>to use platinums if at
all possible. I'm using copper because I just
didn't
>find any
platinums that were "right".
I have part numbers for platinums that
are two
ranges colder. (8) Verified/obtained from
NGK
tech. They fit. What heat range are you
wanting?
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 19:42:36
-0500
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Emergency Brake Light
Was it cold for you this morning?
When winter arrived "the first time" a
few weeks ago, I had this problem, but
only in the cold mornings. When I
drove home in the evening, the car
had warmed from the sun and the light
didn't come on.
In my case it
was a sticky switch like Chris Deutsch described earlier. I
probably
could have cleaned it myself, but the car was going in for other
work, so I
had the mechanic do it. He didn't bother to put it on the bill,
so it
can't be too difficult.
Hope this helps.
Dennis
93 Stealth
ES
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
daedel@mac.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Friday,
January 04, 2002 2:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: Emergency Brake
Light
This morning I went to go drive and when I put down the
e-brake, wallah,
the light won't turn off. I'm sure the brake is off as I
don't
decelerate (as far as I can tell) any less that the usual and the
handle
is all the way down. I'm sure this has happened to someone else so
if
any of you could be so kind as to maybe explain to me why this
happened
to you and any remedies you may have. Thanks.
-
-Dave
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 20:22:46
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (not so long)
Not to beat a dead
dog, but in my Engineering Fundementals of IC Engines
test book we focused
extensively on the thermodynamic side if IC engine
design. In this
particular text, knock is described as a normal reaction by
the end-gas
during combustion on most high efficiency/high performance
engine
designs. Through the use of high turbulance combustion chamber
designs
as well as rich fuel mixtures, (both of which supposedly speed up
normal
combustion) the end-gas (the final amount of mixture to be burned)
can be
consumed before it gets a chance to detonate/knock. The reason for
this
is a known detonation occurance called knock delay. If the
remaining
end-gas is consumed under normal i.e. slow, even combustion, within
the
knock delay period, then the remaining end-gas is consumed before it gets
a
chance to detonate/knock. The caviat to this that the more severe
the
conditions that induce knock become, the shorter the knock delay
period
becomes.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
-
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero
Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 20:42:32
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Plugs
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
'Furman, Russell' <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Cc:
'Team 3S' <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, January 04, 2002 9:41 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Plugs
>BCPR6ES-8 Copper, stock heat range, .032"
gap
>BCPR7ES-8 Copper, one range colder, .032"
gap
>BCPR8ES-8 Copper, two range colder, .032" gap
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Also
- there is no such plug as: BCPR8ES-8
The make the 6 and 7 but not an 8
in this model.
- - tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 20:53:05
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Plugs again
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jannusch,
Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>To:
'Furman, Russell' <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
>Cc:
'Team 3S' <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Date:
Friday, January 04, 2002 9:41 AM
>Subject: RE: Team3S:
Plugs
>
>
>
>>BCPR6ES-8 Copper, stock heat
range, .032" gap
>>BCPR7ES-8 Copper, one range colder, .032"
gap
>>BCPR8ES-8 Copper, two range colder, .032"
gap
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>Also
- there is no such plug as: BCPR8ES-8
>
>The make the 6 and 7 but
not an 8 in this model.
>
-
-----------------------------------------------------------
Woops -
actually they don't make ANY of those!
Here's what I think you were
trying to list and what
we have used in the
past:
BCPR6ES-11
BCPR7ES-11
These are coppper.
They
don't make a BCPR8ES-11
- - tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 21:18:12
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Plugs 3
>
>Those are copper - the ones I'm using. I was
asking about the platinum
>cooler plugs you mentioned. NGK's would
be "PFR7J-11" and "PFR8J-11", if
>you could get them. I've talked
with a few people and they said they
didn't
>have an NGK stock number
for those part numbers.
*Those model numbers do not
exist.*
>
>Actually, if possible you want to order them in a
"-8" version. Those
would
>be pregapped to .032". Wherever
possible you want to change the gap from
>the plug's original gap as
little as you can.
>
>Optimally you'd
get:
>
>BCPR6ES-8 Copper, stock heat range, .032"
gap
>BCPR7ES-8 Copper, one range colder, .032"
gap
>BCPR8ES-8 Copper, two range colder, .032"
gap
*None of these exist
either.*
>PFR6J-8 Platinum, stock heat range,
.032" gap
>PFR7J-8 Platinum, one range colder, .032"
gap
>PFR8J-8 Platinum, two range colder, .032"
gap
*None of these exist either.*
>
>The only PFR plug I
can find in reality is the PFR6J-11 (stock). You might
*This one is
fine (stock) of course - exists!*
>be able to use a VX
Platinum BCPR6EVX-11 or BCPR7EVX-11 for platinums
(stock
>and one range
colder). Those are cheaper than the stock plugs too (about
>half the
price - $5.13 each). They should fit physically, but I
haven't
>personally used them.
*Both of these are listed but
only go 1 step colder than stock.*
This is according to Monarch which
is the exclusive (only) US distributor
for
many NGK plugs - especially the
hard to find plugs.
Of course they also carry all the "regular" types as
well.
If these are somehow listed elsewhere please provide the
link.
- - tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 19:22:20
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Laguna Seca Track day: URL
http://www.geocities.com/qckmr2/lagunasheet.html-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 21:38:51
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: noble <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
To: Team3s
(E-mail) <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, January 03, 2002 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Knock, detonation,
pre-ignition (kinda long)
>After talking with someone at NGK, he
recommended the following sku
numbers:
>
>R5672A-8 or
R5671A-8
>
>They're both copper and 1 or 2 heat ranges
colder.
>Can anyone out there confirm if these are the right part numbers
for a vr4?
>
>Thanks,
>Noble
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
Technically - NGK doesn't list any copper plugs 'for our cars'.
They
probably don't list them for any car that came with plat
plugs stock.
They get a whole lot more money for plat plugs
and they would much rather
sell you those.
But - I know for a fact that R5672A-8 has been used with
success
on our cars and has been discussed on 3SI.org.
I'm going to
try a set myself.
BCP6ES-11
BCP7ES-11
have been good to go for the
stock (6) heat
range and (7) one step colder range.
- -
tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 17:06:58
+1000
From: Michael Korsinczky <
m.korsinczky@mailbox.uq.edu.au>
Subject:
Team3S: parts required
Hi guys
I need a left front lower control
arm, computer, gear stick cover and
starter motor for my 1991 twin turbo
3000GT.
If anyone can help I need these ASAP.
They will need to be
sent to Brisbane, Australia so could you please
quote me prices that include
freight.
Thanks in
advance.
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#717
***************************************