Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, January 3
2002 Volume 01 : Number
716
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 2 Jan 2002 23:41:25 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Running Rich (WAS: Team3S: Aftermarket ECU's)
> This is my
theory. I think this logic of running our cars
> rich to suppress
premature detanation is not wise. You're
> solving a big problem
(detonation) but creating a smaller
> one (knock).
I don't
agree. Knock is the weaker version of detonation. You
aren't
creating a new problem, you are still reducing a more severe problem
into a
more manageable problem. Knock can be at least partially
compensated for by
retarding timing. Detonation happens early during
the compression stroke
and tries to force the crank in the wrong direction
and causes parts to
dissociate from themselves. (Not good)
>
By running rich, the extra fuel that didn't get burned
> might
ignite. While the explosion from knock isn't as
> damaging as the
explosion from detanation it is still
> damaging.
If you are
running rich, there's no more oxygen to burn the "extra" fuel.
The extra fuel
at this point helps reduce cylinder temperatures so you don't
melt parts or
cause preignition. Without oxygen to burn there's no further
reaction
possible.
> You need something that will always keep your A/F
>
stoichimetric. I don't think the VPC or ARCII do a
> good enough job
at this.
You can't run stoichimetric when on boost. That burns way
too hot with that
dense of a mixture. Parts go boom, pistons melt,
preigntion and detonation
show their ugly faces. Overly hot exhaust gas
temps = bad news and broken
pistons. You can run stoichimetric on boost
for one dragstrip run, but be
prepared for the nasty engine noises by the
time you reach the 1/8 mile.
> If you want to cool the A/F mixture so
you can run
> more boost you should be using a better intercooler,
>
water injection, ram air, possibly an aftermarket hood
> with a cowl,
etc. Running rich isn't the solution.
Yup, tried more efficient
intercoolers, and I use water injection... "Ram
air" (I think you meant
cold-air induction) or a hood designed to cool the
engine bay may be a
benefit if your intercoolers aren't able to do their
job. Better
intercoolers should negate (or reduce) the need for a cooler
engine
bay.
> How does everyone else feel about running rich to
>
suppress detonation?
It is a necessity. You can certainly go "too
far" and run far too rich and
cause problems with the rings not sealing as
well as simply making less
horsepower by running far too rich - but you do
need "sufficient" fuel to
keep the cylinders cool enough. Sufficient is
substantially more than
stoich. Stoich is great for cruising, no more -
especially on a turbo
motor.
The optimum way (in my opinion) is to set
a target EGT that you are
unwilling to risk going beyond, run enough fuel
and/or water injection to
keep knock and detonation away while staying below
your maximum EGT. Adjust
the fuel and/or water to try to get good
timing advance. Take whatever
measures are possible to reduce hotspots
in the cylinder (smooth pistons, no
cylinder irregularities, clean valves, no
carbon deposits, colder range
spark plugs) to prevent preignition.
That's about 90% of the battle right
there. Beyond that is tweaking to
try to extract maximum horsepower - which
you are really going to need a dyno
to do well.
One of the other problems with these cars is that the stock
pistons are crap
and are easily destroyed. Anything other than forged
pistons in a
high-boost motor is really just asking for trouble, at least
once you get in
the 15G and beyond set of mods - it is too easy for things to
go bad very
quickly once you get to that point.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 01:03:15
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Stock pistons question; was RE: Running Rich
At 11:41 PM 01/02/02,
Jannusch, Matt wrote:
>One of the other problems with these cars is that
the stock pistons are crap
>and are easily destroyed. Anything other
than forged pistons in a
>high-boost motor is really just asking for
trouble, at least once you get in
>the 15G and beyond set of mods - it is
too easy for things to go bad very
>quickly once you get to that
point.
Sorry, this was probably discussed before. Do the piston leftovers
and the
rods mess up the block when pistons shatter? I bet you need to
replace the
head or at least put new valves it, but those of you who
shattered their
pistons, did you guys have to replace or bore out the block
too?
Thanks,
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 01:55:29
-0500
From:
Romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock pistons question; was RE: Running
Rich
Philip,
After my motor stalled and the Oil with Antifreeze
started leaking I knew there was a problem. When the motor was opened up "at
Altered Atmosphere" I had two holes through the block. My cylinder wall had a
hole in it and no Piston was there. All I had was a rod with a pin. The pin is
what actually punctured the whole in the cylinder wall. But, it looked like a
bard of the piston went through the block it self. I will try to post pictures
for people to see.
I ended up getting a new block "bottom end" and hopefully
nothing within the engine bay is damaged from the debris flying at hundreds of
miles per hour chopping everything in its way.
Also that is why the oil and
antifreeze was leaking out. If you don't have oil leakage than you should be
fine some what.
I hope that helps.
Roman G. 94 VR-4 still at AAM
getting the race prepped motor to replace the one that blew.
"Philip V.
Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
wrote:
>At 11:41 PM 01/02/02, Jannusch, Matt
wrote:
>>>Sorry, this was probably discussed before. Do the piston
leftovers and the
>rods mess up the block when pistons shatter? I bet you
need to replace the
>head or at least put new valves it, but those of you
who shattered their
>pistons, did you guys have to replace or bore out
the block
too?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Philip
>
>
>***
Info:
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***
>
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 02:08:33
-0500
From: "Aamer" <
aamer.mail@verizon.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Stoichimetric A/F ratio
Sorry if this is bit of a stupid
question, but can someone tell me exactly
what is "stoichimetric" as far as
A/F ratios are concerned? Refer to the
original message I have pasted below
if you need to.
Thanks.
Aamer Abbas
'94 3000 GT (DOHC --
Naturally Aspirated)
email:
aamer@thepentagon.comfax: (707)
982-8817 [add +1 country code if faxing from outside the USA]
-
--------------Original Message --------------------
<snip>
>>
You need something that will always keep your A/F
>>
stoichimetric. I don't think the VPC or ARCII do a
>> good enough
job at this.
>You can't run stoichimetric when on boost. That
burns way too hot with
that
>dense of a mixture. Parts go boom,
pistons melt, preigntion and detonation
>show their ugly faces.
Overly hot exhaust gas temps = bad news and broken
>pistons. You can
run stoichimetric on boost for one dragstrip run, but be
>prepared for the
nasty engine noises by the time you reach the 1/8
mile.
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 07:12:04
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stock pistons question; was RE: Running Rich
At 12:55 AM
01/03/02, Roman wrote:
>If you don't have oil leakage than you should be
fine some what.
Thanks for the info. I my engine is fine and I am
planning to keep it that
way. I am just trying to weigh the advantages of
installing forged pistons
as a preventative measure before anything
happens.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 07:21:15
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stoichimetric A/F ratio
It is a 14.7 ratio. It is not good for
anything. You want something like
11-12 for power and 16-17 for fuel
economy.
Philip
At 01:08 AM 01/03/02, Aamer wrote:
>Sorry if
this is bit of a stupid question, but can someone tell me exactly
>what is
"stoichimetric" as far as A/F ratios are concerned? Refer to the
>original
message I have pasted below if you need
to.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Aamer Abbas
>'94 3000 GT (DOHC
-- Naturally Aspirated)
>email:
aamer@thepentagon.com>fax: (707)
982-8817 [add +1 country code if faxing from outside the
USA]
>
>--------------Original Message
--------------------
><snip>
> >> You need something
that will always keep your A/F
> >> stoichimetric. I don't
think the VPC or ARCII do a
> >> good enough job at
this.
>
> >You can't run stoichimetric when on boost. That
burns way too hot with
>that
> >dense of a mixture. Parts
go boom, pistons melt, preigntion and detonation
> >show their ugly
faces. Overly hot exhaust gas temps = bad news and broken
>
>pistons. You can run stoichimetric on boost for one dragstrip run, but
be
> >prepared for the nasty engine noises by the time you reach the
1/8 mile.
><snip>
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 07:35:42
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Running Rich
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
"Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
> To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 9:27 PM
> Subject: Re: Running Rich
(WAS: Team3S: Aftermarket ECU's)
>
> Running rich is not the
answer. Read Roger's technical note for
> more insite:
http://www.team3s.com/FAQknock.htmThere
are several mis-statements in Roger's article that is referred
to.
1)
"We only cured the sympton [sic]".
The "symptom" IS the problem. If you
eliminate measurable knock, you
have eliminated the problem. Period. Knock is
almost certain to occur
at some level of cylinder pressure and gasoline
quality. It is
natural, not a sign that something is "wrong". But it is
also
unwanted and damaging, and needs to be prevented as much as
possible.
2) "... run way too rich as well as we'll lose some horses due
to
this".
Many books show power output vs. A/F. The curve peaks around
12.5 A/F
and is less steep to the rich side than the lean side. This
means
that power is much less sensitive to being "rich" than being
"lean".
3) ".. the gases cannot go out of the combustion chamber and will
be
burst again in the next cycle ... causing a lean situation".
What?
When running rich, all oxygen should be consumed and there
should be left
over fuel. The phenomenon Roger refers to is called
exhaust gas reversion,
where some of the spent fuel-air mixture
cannot leave the combustion chamber
or is drawn back in to it, and so
prevents the chamber from filling
completely with fresh charge. The
result of course in this case will be extra
"fuel" in the chamber,
not a "lean" situation (extra oxygen).
Philip,
you should select your "technical" articles more carefully,
as should Team3S.
Running rich IS the answer - up to a point. This is the standard
way
to cool the combustion chamber to reduce knock. This happens to
be
exactly what our ECM does in response to severe knock (as well
as
reduce timing advance and boost). I have observed this using
the
datalogger. There are of course better solutions, but non so easy
as
to dump a little (or a lot of) extra fuel.
One solution is to
improve the squish area (especially the clearance)
so that more turbulence is
created to reduce "lean" areas in the
chamber. Cooler charge also helps
(better intercooling, water
injection). Nitrous is a mixed bag as the N2O
cools the intake charge
(a lot!) but the reduced N content increases the
combustion heat.
If you guys need some REAL technical references for how
engines work
look through these books.
A. Graham Bell, 1998,
Four-Stroke Performance Tuning, 2nd ed.:
Haynes, 327 p.
John B.
Heywood, 1988, Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals:
McGraw-Hill, 930
p.
Richard Stone, 1999, Introduction to Internal Combustion Engines,
3rd
edition: SAE International, 641 p.
There are many more listed on
my web page below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-refs.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 07:54:15
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 1997 & 1998 ECM?
I have service manuals for 1991-1996 plus
1999, but not (yet) for
1997 and 1998. Would someone tell me if the 1997 ECM
connectors are
"like" the 1996? Also is the 1998 ECM "like" the
1999?
I need to make sure the info is accurate on my web page
below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-2-ecu94.htmThanks,
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 10:49:56
-0500
From: "Alan C. Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Aftermarket ECU's
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff
Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
> why
do we *need* an aftermarket ECM? (I know some people just like
> to play,
experiment, or be different.)
I think the answer is simple. Look at matts
car Eletronic Boost Controller
and an arc2 with limited dataloggin
abilitys.
An aftermarket ECU (based on AEM's claims) would give us all
the abilitys in
one part for less(same?) than the cost of the EBC/ARC2 and
you get full
datalogging abilitys.
If I were planning on major HP from
my car I'd consider it as the correct
upgrade
path.
Alan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 11:06:18
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 1997 & 1998 ECM?
EUREKA!!!!!! I do not know
if anyone remembers my discussion of using a
voltage clamp to prevent fuel
cut ( I am not going to start that thread
again I promise) But as
I had suspected our ECU uses voltage ranges as
operating
parameters. This lends credence to my idea of using the Field
SFC
and having different fuel maps for different boost settings and being
able to
change between them at the push of a button :) Instead of turning
2-3
knobs (sorry Jeff that is too much work for an unexpected street race)
See
the link below from Jeff's site (thanks again Jeff) and maybe point
me
in the right direction( input or output terminals) as to help me
experiment.
I still have the damn thing sitting on my desk b/c I refused sell
it when I
sold the "other lady"
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius [SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 10:54 AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: 1997 & 1998 ECM?
>
> I have service manuals
for 1991-1996 plus 1999, but not (yet) for
> 1997 and 1998. Would someone
tell me if the 1997 ECM connectors are
> "like" the 1996? Also is the 1998
ECM "like" the 1999?
>
> I need to make sure the info is accurate
on my web page below.
>
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-2-ecu94.htm>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
>
http://greetings.yahoo.com>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 11:10:31
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 1997 & 1998 ECM?
Sorry I forgot the link........
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-ecu91-2.gif>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell
> Sent:
Thursday, January 03, 2002 11:06 AM
> To: 'Jeff Lucius'
> Cc: 'Team
3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: 1997 & 1998 ECM?
>
>
EUREKA!!!!!! I do not know if anyone remembers my discussion of
using a
> voltage clamp to prevent fuel cut ( I am not going to
start that thread
> again I promise) But as I had suspected our ECU
uses voltage ranges as
> operating parameters. This lends
credence to my idea of using the Field
> SFC and having different fuel
maps for different boost settings and being
> able to change between them
at the push of a button :) Instead of turning
> 2-3 knobs (sorry
Jeff that is too much work for an unexpected street race)
> See the link
below from Jeff's site (thanks again Jeff) and maybe point
>
me
> in the right direction( input or output terminals) as to help
me
> experiment.
> I still have the damn thing sitting on my desk
b/c I refused sell it when
> I
> sold the "other lady"
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jeff Lucius
[SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002
10:54 AM
> > To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Team3S: 1997 & 1998 ECM?
> >
> > I have service
manuals for 1991-1996 plus 1999, but not (yet) for
> > 1997 and 1998.
Would someone tell me if the 1997 ECM connectors are
> > "like" the
1996? Also is the 1998 ECM "like" the 1999?
> >
> > I need to
make sure the info is accurate on my web page below.
> >
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-2-ecu94.htm>
>
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 10:24:21
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pothole
Alex,
As they probably mentioned to you it all
depends on where the damage is and
how bad it is. One option is to ship
it to them to try to fix. They may be
able to straighten it w/o having
to re-chrome it. Another option is to ask
if they have any used wheels
that have been refurbished. They sell ours for
about $350. They
told me the same thing about some rim damage and I asked
them to do the best
job they could and they were able to fix it. I think
that they were
giving you a worst case scenario but it is ultimately up to
you.
Tom
Gifford is the person to talk to over there. They took care of me on
3
different occasions and I was very pleased with the results.
Dave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Alex Pedenko
[SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 3:20
PM
> To: Black, Dave (ICT)
> Cc: Team3s (E-mail)
> Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pothole
>
> I called that twice, and both time got a
different answer - first time I
> was
> told that they could do it.
Second time I was told that they would be able
> to do it, but since they
use heat to straighten it, the chrome would turn
> black.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex
>
> '95 Vr4 w/ a chrome pain
in the *ss
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Black,
Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
> To: "'Alex
Pedenko'" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
> Cc: "Team3s
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 9:43 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Pothole
>
>
> > Hi Alex,
> >
> > You
may now have some wheel vibration and possibly a rim leak if it was
>
bad
> > enough. I have had this happen many times.....living in
the Chicago
> area!
> > I have had 2 rim leaks on 2 different
wheels. One of which I decided to
> > replace with a restored OEM
18" chromie wheel and the other I had fixed.
> I
> > got a
restored wheel from a place called TransWheel for about $350.
>
They
> > were also the ones that straightened out my other wheels ($100
per
> wheel).
> > These were pretty cheap prices considering that
the stock 18" chromies
> go
> > for about $561 from Tallahassee
Mitsu. The restored ones are next to
> > impossible to tell from
brand new so why pay the extra money?
> >
> > The number is
1-800-892-3733. Ask for Tom and tell him Dave Black from
>
3Si
> > sent you. The website is
http://www.transwheel.com>
>
> > Dave 95VR4
> >
http://www.daveblack.net>
>
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > >
From: Alex Pedenko [SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> > > Sent: Sunday,
December 30, 2001 4:00 PM
> > > To: 'Team3S'
> > >
Subject: Team3S: Pothole
> > >
> > > Okay, I hit a
pothole that dented my chrome 18" rims :'( ...
> > > The dent is
about an inch deep towards the center of the wheel. Tire
> > >
pressure seems to be holding okay. Anything I should check/watch out
>
for?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> >
> Alex
> > >
> > > '95 VR4
(with a limp)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 10:31:33
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
MSD Knock Alert?
Since I can't go directly into the ECU since I have
pre-OBDII, does anyone
know if the MSD Knock Alert sensor will work on a 1995
VR4? I'm not sure if
it taps into the ECU or not.
Dave
95VR4
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl
[SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 4:32
PM
> To:
TEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.ST>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Data logger for 96 VR-4
>
> Alain,
>
> The Pocketlogger is a PALM Adapted TMO Datalogger and any OBDII
software
> available currently cannot read the knock sensor. Believe me,
it can't !
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rec.ch>
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Alan C. Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
> To: <
TEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.ST>
>
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 11:19 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Data
logger for 96 VR-4
>
>
> > ----- Original Message
-----
> > From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> >
> And how can the Pocketlogger log the knock sensor ?????????
> >
>
> >
> > I have an 1st gen ODBI car so I can't answer that
question.
> >
> > But, Why would it not be able to? The TMO
Datalogger and the
> Pocketlogger
> > for ODBI can.
>
>
> > Alan
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 09:39:31
-0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake Pads?
Has anyone used "Brutestop" brake pads from
Raybestos?
Are they any good?
Rgds
Moe
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 10:41:20
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 1997 & 1998 ECM?
> EUREKA!!!!!! I do not know if
anyone remembers my
> discussion of using a voltage clamp to
prevent
> fuel cut ( I am not going to start that thread
>
again I promise) But as I had suspected our ECU
> uses voltage
ranges as operating parameters.
> This lends credence to my idea of
using the
> Field SFC and having different fuel maps for
> different
boost settings and being able to
> change between them at the push of a
button :)
The ECU does not use voltage for the airflow signal - it uses a
pulsed DC
frequency signal. Those values you see in the are only the
test values.
Notice that it shows the same test voltage at both idle and 2000
RPM in the
example... That's because the meter is too slow to see the
pulses and
squishes them together into an average voltage and displays
that.
5V +-----+
+-----+
|
| |
|
|
| | |
0V
___| |_____|
|___
5V +--+ +--+ +--+
+--+
| | | | | |
| |
| | | | |
| | |
0V __| |__| |__| |__|
|__
Both these waveforms will show around 2.5V DC if measured on a
voltmeter,
but the signals show very different values to the ECU. A
"voltage clamp"
won't help prevent fuel cut because it isn't the voltage that
is changing to
indicate more airflow - it is the frequency
increasing.
Since the Field SFC is a voltage-type controller it won't
work on a 3/S (or
a DSM or any other Karman-Vortex style MAF
sensor).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 17:28:42
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Rich
> There are several mis-statements in Roger's
article that is referred
> to.
Aha ?
> 1) "We only cured
the sympton [sic]".
> The "symptom" IS the problem. If you eliminate
measurable knock, you
> have eliminated the problem. Period. Knock is
almost certain to occur
> at some level of cylinder pressure and gasoline
quality. It is
> natural, not a sign that something is "wrong". But it is
also
> unwanted and damaging, and needs to be prevented as much as
possible.
Knock is a symptom that occurs due to some causes (misfires,
too lean, hot
psots, carbon depostis, pre-ignition). Knock is the problem
caused by some
things happend in the chamber.
> 2) "... run way too
rich as well as we'll lose some horses due to
> this".
> Many books
show power output vs. A/F. The curve peaks around 12.5 A/F
> and is less
steep to the rich side than the lean side. This means
> that power is much
less sensitive to being "rich" than being "lean".
Runing too rich costs
power. Jeff, try this on the dyno, you can see how the
power decreases
!
> 3) ".. the gases cannot go out of the combustion chamber and will
be
> burst again in the next cycle ... causing a lean situation".
>
What? When running rich, all oxygen should be consumed and there
> should
be left over fuel. The phenomenon Roger refers to is called
> exhaust gas
reversion, where some of the spent fuel-air mixture
> cannot leave the
combustion chamber or is drawn back in to it, and so
> prevents the
chamber from filling completely with fresh charge.
Same what I said only
more words.
> The result of course in this case will be extra "fuel"
in the chamber,
> not a "lean" situation (extra oxygen).
Aha, so
you are saying that when the chamber cannot be filled that then
there is too
much fuel ? But we do not have direct injection cars and a
mixture will enter
the chamber. If it cannot enter so why can then the
mixture be rich ? This is
what causes a temprarily lean situation in one or
more cycles in one or more
cylinders.
> Philip, you should select your "technical" articles more
carefully,
> as should Team3S.
Yes, Philip listen to Jeffrey and
don't read others than his site ! Often
cannot be avoided, LOL
>
Running rich IS the answer - up to a point. This is the standard way
> to
cool the combustion chamber to reduce knock.
Standard way on Big Iron
design ! Washing out cylinders, lots more carbon
deposits, fuel in the oil
and more are the "benefits" of this too. But sure,
if you have enough fuel
and the right amount of air can be delivered then
increase it until it rinses
out of the tailpipe. And also check out out some
datalogs and you will see
that even with a extreme rich mixture and high IDC
there is knock. So did
increasing fuel help to prevent it ??
> This happens to be
>
exactly what our ECM does in response to severe knock (as well as
> reduce
timing advance and boost). I have observed this using the
> datalogger.
There are of course better solutions, but non so easy as
> to dump a
little (or a lot of) extra fuel.
Yes, the ECU does this as it tries to
fight a cause for some time until it
gives up. But this doesn't mean that
this fight must be always on. Better
not.
> One solution is to
improve the squish area (especially the clearance)
> so that more
turbulence is created to reduce "lean" areas in the
> chamber. Cooler
charge also helps (better intercooling, water
> injection). Nitrous is a
mixed bag as the N2O cools the intake charge
> (a lot!) but the reduced N
content increases the combustion heat.
Good input, really
:-)))
> If you guys need some REAL technical references for how
engines work
> look through these books.
Yes, do so ! Afterwards
write your own book like Jeffrey does.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 10:43:21
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: MSD Knock Alert?
> Since I can't go directly into the ECU
since I have
> pre-OBDII, does anyone know if the MSD Knock Alert sensor
> will work on a 1995 VR4? I'm not sure if it taps into
> the
ECU or not.
It uses its own knock sensor that you have to screw into the
block.. I've
got one, but it isn't on the car yet. I'll report my
experiences once the
car gets back on the road.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 08:45:23
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Pads?
Its made by Raybestos..nuff said.
:^)
On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Moe Prasad wrote:
> Has anyone used
"Brutestop" brake pads from Raybestos?
>
> Are they any
good?
>
> Rgds
> Moe
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 10:49:55
-0600
From:
overclck@ies.net (Cody
Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake Pads?
Yah, got my Porterfield R4S
broken in (man was that stinky).
There is no comparison. I
am sure your "brutestop" pads are ok street
pads, just don't try stopping too
quickly too many times...
Am very happy I paid the little extra money for
real pads...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Geoff Mohler
Sent: Thursday,
January 03, 2002 10:45 AM
To: Moe Prasad
Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Pads?
Its made by Raybestos..nuff said.
:^)
On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Moe Prasad wrote:
> Has anyone used
"Brutestop" brake pads from Raybestos?
>
> Are they any
good?
>
> Rgds
> Moe
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 11:52:35
-0500
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: Team3S:
BLITZ Dual SBC-i
Was wondering what settings you guys are using on this
controller? I am set
for 58, gain 15. Limiter set for 15.9 psi with a 7 for
boost reduction if
limit is hit.
What is a safe boost to acheive with
a 94 twin turbo, gutted cats, highflow
main cat, downpipe, y-pipe, HKS DLI
ignition, K&N filter charger, BLITZ Dual
SBC-i and NGK plugs?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 10:53:05
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Running Rich
[Willis, Charles E.] Hard to say which of
these is correct - the
partly combusted gasses will indeed contain some
unburned fuel, and little
or no oxygen, but the concentration of unburned
fuel in the exhaust gasses
will certainly be at a lower concentration than
the fuel concentration in
the incoming fuel-air mixture. The resulting
mixture in the chamber will be
"richer" than the incoming fuel-air stream,
that is more unburned
fuel-to-oxygen ratio than intended.
I think Jeff
is right if all the oygen is indeed consumed in the
previous combustin
cycle.
> > 3) ".. the gases cannot go out of the
combustion chamber and will be
> > burst again in the next cycle ...
causing a lean situation".
> > What? When running rich, all oxygen
should be consumed and there
> > should be left over fuel. The
phenomenon Roger refers to is called
> > exhaust gas reversion, where
some of the spent fuel-air mixture
> > cannot leave the combustion
chamber or is drawn back in to it, and so
> > prevents the chamber from
filling completely with fresh charge.
>
> Same what I said only
more words.
>
> > The result of course in this case will be
extra "fuel" in the chamber,
> > not a "lean" situation (extra
oxygen).
>
> Aha, so you are saying that when the chamber cannot be
filled that then
> there is too much fuel ? But we do not have direct
injection cars and a
> mixture will enter the chamber. If it cannot enter
so why can then the
> mixture be rich ? This is what causes a temprarily
lean situation in one
> or
> more cycles in one or more
cylinders.
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 18:16:39
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aftermarket ECU's
I can't wait for the first experiences....
buy it, install it and ... report
please ;-)
Oh, AEM said that there
is onyl one harness for all years ... interesting. I
emailed them again with
the question regarding OBDII having troubles with a
non-existing stock ECU
and non-respondign sub-devices. No answer
anymore.....
Gooood luck for
the guinea-pig
Roger
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd
D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 03, 2002 6:42 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aftermarket
ECU's
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch,
Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 11:18 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Aftermarket ECU's
>
>
> >
> >The PMS says it works
on all years also - and it does! You just tell
them
> >what
year car you have and they send the right cables along. Probably
>
>something similar with the AEM. At least you'd hope so.
>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
--
> --
>
> I hope so too since they (AEM) lists the part # as
:
>
> 3000GT VR4 1992-00 30-1311
>
> They
also say:
>
> This user-programmable system plugs directly into a
vehicle's factory
> ECU harness and requires no additional
wiring.
>
> Something doesn't add up. Not only are the plugs
different
> but the wires/numbering don't match up exactly from 1st
to
> 2nd generation. Even when connecting something as
"simple"
> as an ITC - you have to access a different wiring diagram
depending
> on year and whether it is a US model or not.
>
>
More for those that are interested:
>
> The AEM EMS's
infinitely-adjustable software allows tuners to program
> virtually
any combination of engine control, power adders and auxiliary
> devices,
and accurately deliver proper amounts of fuel and correct
> ignition
timing for ANY boost level or operating condition.
>
> Plug &
Play Programmable Engine Management System
>
> Plug & Play
Technology - No additional wiring necessary
> Installs in
minutes!
>
> Runs on Windows™ Based Software
>
> 16/32
Hybrid High-Speed Processor
>
> Base Maps included
>
>
Onboard datalogging
>
> Sequential Fuel Injection
>
>
Interactive, User-friendly Manual
>
> Nitrous, Boost and Knock
control
>
> Forced induction compatible
>
>
> They
also sell a 2nd version called:
>
> The AEM Race Programmable Engine
Management System
>
> And it lists:
>
> User
configurable Windows™ software (requires a minimum Pentium 100 PC
>
Onboard Datalogging
> Comes with complete library of tuning tips and
system design
> User programmable inputs and outputs*
> Up to 10
cylinder sequential fuel injection with individual cylinder trim
> Up to
10 cylinder wasted spark distributor less ignition with individual
>
cylinder trim
> Boost Control
> Comprehensive Nitrous
Control
> Twin O2 sensor closed loop control (Wide range, and
UEGO)
> Comprehensive easy to follow
> wiring instructions
>
Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) feedback
> Idle motor control
>
Extensive Electronic Automatic
> transmission control
> 16/32 bit
High Speed Processor
> Interactive User Friendly manual
> Twin Knock
sensing control
> Requires Wiring of Vehicle
>
>
__________________________________
>
> I can't hardly keep track of
everything I'm monitoring/setting up now!
> Imagine all that
.....
>
>
> -
tds
>
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 18:11:31
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
Folks,
We all
speak from this and that but in general we speak of our emeny we
would like
fight against. No matter what Jeffrey and others are saying I
like to outline
that knock is the final result and knock is the only thing
we can "hear" or
measure (by a knock sensor). But knock appears due to
combustion problems.
Pre-ignition, lean situtaions and others are such
causes that finally are
detectable by ... knock.
Here a good explanation about preignition and
detonation that causes knockI
have stored and unfortunately cannot find the
source of the text again (but
Jeffrey, please note : it's not from me ... but
maybe from you ??) :
The knocking sounds you hear are the cylinder walls
set into oscillation by
intense pressure waves, caused by abnormal
combustion. Normal combustion is
a controlled burn that starts from the spark
plug and spreads outward,
causing a pressure rise in the combustion chamber.
This pressure is then
converted into torque on the crankshaft. Ideally, the
peak pressures will
occur about ten to fifteen degrees after top dead center
(TDC), as the
piston is on its way down.
Detonation is a form of
abnormal combustion that starts off right, but at
the last millisecond,
something goes wrong. The remaining air-fuel mixture,
called the "end gas",
explodes all at once, instead of burning in a
controlled way. Resultant
engine damage is caused by an instantaneous
pressure rise that can excede
1500 psi. This is more than double the normal
peak combustion pressure, and
will blow head gaskets, break piston ring
lands and hammer the rod bearings.
Another form of damage seen is that the
tops of the pistons will be eroded
and can even melt.
High octane fuels are resistant to detonation because
they contain compounds
that slow down the chemical chain reaction we call
combustion. If left
unchecked, these chain reactions would quickly escalate,
resulting in
increasing damage to the piston and other engine components. All
fuels,
regardless of octane, have a knock limit. This is reached when
the
temperature of the "end gas" reaches an autoignition point.
Combustion
chamber designers use high swirl inlets and large "quench areas"
to fight
this "autoignition" problem. There are other factors beyond these
mechanical
design features which influence "end gas" temperatures. Some of
these are:
(1) Intake charge temperature, (2) Coolant temperature, (3)
Compression
Ratio, (4) Boost pressure, (5) Spark timing, (6) Air-fuel ratio,
and (6)
Humidity.
An increase in compression ratio, boost pressure, or
spark timing will
increase peak cylinder pressure, which in turn raises the
"end gas"
temperature. Higher inlet and coolant temperatures also increase
the "end
gas" temperature. Richer mixtures can be used to cool the charge. At
some
point beyond about 10:1, however, will again increase the tendency
to
detonate. A decrease in humidity will also tend to increase
detonation.
Preignition and detonation are two separate and distinct
events. It was
first pointed out as far back as 1906 that the two phenomena
were not only
quite distinct but were in fact not related to each other. In
the first
place, preignition in itself does not produce an audible "knock"
and if it
is audible at all it could be described as a "dull thud".
Because
preignition is frequently brought about as a result of
persistent
detonation, the distinct "knock or ping" of the latter came
quite
erroneously to be associated with it.
It is by no means uncommon
for preignition, or in this case it would be more
correct to describe it as
autoignition, to occur at the same phase as the
timed spark. In this case the
ignition can be switched off, and the engine
could continue to run perfectly
steadily without the slightest observable
change in performance, sound, or
any other characteristic. The danger,
however, lies in the fact that all
control of timing can be lost and
ignition may creep in earlier in the
cycle.
The danger of preignition lies not so much in the development of
high
pressures but rather in the very great increase in heat flow to the
piston
and cylinder walls when the ignition occurs too early in the cycle.
This
increase in heat flow, in turn, raises still further the temperature of
the
hot spot or surface which is causing the preignition resulting in
even
earlier ignition. At some point the temperatures are elevated to the
point
where the incoming charge is ignited, causing backfiring in the inlet
tract.
The belief, still widely held, that preignition can give rise to
dangerously
high cylinder pressures is totally false. Under no circumstances
is the peak
pressure resulting from preignition appreciably higher than from
a
spark-initiated ignition and, in both cases, the peak is reached when
the
maximum pressure is attained at or just after top dead center, that is
to
say, about 10 degrees earlier than the normal optimum. As the time
of
ignition is further advanced by either advancing the time of the spark or
by
earlier preignition, the maximum cylinder pressure falls again due to
the
excessive heat loss, for the piston is then compressing gas at or about
its
maximum temperature, and the intensity of heat flow is increased many
times.
The danger lies not in the production of excessive pressures but
of
excessive heat fow. The intense heat flow in the affected cylinder
can
result in piston seizure followed by the breaking-up of the piston
with
catastrophic results to the whole engine.
In nine cases out of
ten, preignition is initiated by overheating of the
sparkplug electrodes or
some sharp point or edge that has gone "critical".
We are accustomed these
days to focus all our attention on the subject of
detonation for it is the
limiting factor controlling the performance of a
spark-ignition engine. We
are apt to forget that the real danger is that it
leads on to preignition. In
itself, detonation is not dangerous... It is the
preignition it gives rise to
that can so easily wreck an engine.
Hope I brought some light into
this.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 09:33:20
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 10:11 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Knock,
detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
> Jeffrey, please note : it's
not from me ... but maybe from you ??)
:
Nope, not from me. I'm just a
simple, country, mechanic. :)
More info for those that are interested in
detonation.
The Mystery of Detonation By Dr. Robin Tuluie, Ph.D
http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcrob/rt-fuel2.html
What is detonation and how to prevent it By Bob Hewitt
http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htmThe
Causes of Internal Engine Knock, and How to Eliminate it By Ray
T. Bohacz
http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.htmlLots
more good stuff on the Tech page at my web site.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 09:51:57
-0800
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Braided brake lines
I'm trying to buy stainless steel braided brakes
lines for my '91 3000GT
VR4 and am told by Auto Options Salon that there is
a very long wait for
SMC brakes lines. They have been able to locate another
supplier that can
offer Russell brake lines.
I'm wondering if anyone
has heard of Russell and if they have any comments
or
experience.
Auto Options Salon says they could get Russell brake lines in
a week.
Thanks for any input you can provide.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 13:44:01
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BLITZ Dual SBC-i
Hi:
This unit has four channels. My
fourth channel is set as follows:
Boost 14.7 PSI
Gain 25
Limiter
14.7, boost reduction limit 2.
I think 58 is kind of low (~8-9 PSI).
Experts help me here.
Did you have it in the "auto" or "manual"
mode?
Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Payne, Scott [mailto:SPayne@hunton.com]
Sent: Thursday,
January 03, 2002 4:53 PM
To: Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: BLITZ Dual
SBC-i
Was wondering what settings you guys are using on this
controller? I am set
for 58, gain 15. Limiter set for 15.9 psi with a 7 for
boost reduction if
limit is hit.
What is a safe boost to acheive with
a 94 twin turbo, gutted cats, highflow
main cat, downpipe, y-pipe, HKS DLI
ignition, K&N filter charger, BLITZ Dual
SBC-i and NGK plugs?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 12:51:43
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Braided brake lines
SMC, is that the same as the Goodrich
lines? b/c I had Goodrich lines on
my MKIV and they were just a
good quality as the TRD versions.
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Michael Gerhard [SMTP:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
> Sent: Thursday, January
03, 2002 12:52 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Braided brake lines
>
> I'm trying to buy
stainless steel braided brakes lines for my '91 3000GT
> VR4 and am told
by Auto Options Salon that there is a very long wait for
> SMC brakes
lines. They have been able to locate another supplier that can
> offer
Russell brake lines.
>
> I'm wondering if anyone has heard of
Russell and if they have any comments
>
> or experience.
>
> Auto Options Salon says they could get Russell brake lines in a
week.
>
> Thanks for any input you can provide.
>
>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------
> Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 13:45:10
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: MSD Knock Alert?
Hi Matt:
Where did you get it from?
Price?
Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4, Searching for knock
alert
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
[mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 4:43
PM
To: Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: MSD Knock
Alert?
> Since I can't go directly into the ECU since I have
> pre-OBDII, does anyone know if the MSD Knock Alert sensor
> will
work on a 1995 VR4? I'm not sure if it taps into
> the ECU or
not.
It uses its own knock sensor that you have to screw into the
block.. I've
got one, but it isn't on the car yet. I'll report my
experiences once the
car gets back on the road.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 11:53:24
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Braided brake lines
Just bought some Russell brake lines for
my boss' 1969 351 Mustang Mach I
(part of the "Ultimate Suck-up Crhistmas
Package"). They appear to be the
same construction as the Goodridge brake
lines we have on three VR4's.
Try Goodridge.
Chuck
Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Gerhard
[SMTP:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 11:52
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Braided brake lines
>
> I'm trying to buy
stainless steel braided brakes lines for my '91 3000GT
> VR4 and am told
by Auto Options Salon that there is a very long wait for
> SMC brakes
lines. They have been able to locate another supplier that can
> offer
Russell brake lines.
>
> I'm wondering if anyone has heard of
Russell and if they have any comments
>
> or experience.
>
> Auto Options Salon says they could get Russell brake lines in a
week.
>
> Thanks for any input you can provide.
>
>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------
> Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 11:54:39
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: MSD Knock Alert?
> Hi Matt:
> Where did you get it
from? Price?
Jeg's High Performance...
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=26719&prmenbr=
76
Part
number 121-8964
$143.00.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 12:56:26
-0500
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: BLITZ Dual SBC-i
channel 1 =48
channel 2 =53
channel 3
=58
channel 4=auto 15.9
gain is 15 on all channels
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Berrios, Victor L CIV
[mailto:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 1:44
PM
To:
'tEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.ST'Subject:
RE: Team3S: BLITZ Dual SBC-i
Hi:
This unit has four channels. My
fourth channel is set as follows:
Boost 14.7 PSI
Gain 25
Limiter
14.7, boost reduction limit 2.
I think 58 is kind of low (~8-9 PSI).
Experts help me here.
Did you have it in the "auto" or "manual"
mode?
Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Payne, Scott [mailto:SPayne@hunton.com]
Sent: Thursday,
January 03, 2002 4:53 PM
To: Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: BLITZ Dual
SBC-i
Was wondering what settings you guys are using on this
controller? I am set
for 58, gain 15. Limiter set for 15.9 psi with a 7 for
boost reduction if
limit is hit.
What is a safe boost to acheive with
a 94 twin turbo, gutted cats, highflow
main cat, downpipe, y-pipe, HKS DLI
ignition, K&N filter charger, BLITZ Dual
SBC-i and NGK plugs?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:14:51
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BLITZ Dual SBC-i
Hi Scott:
I believe is your car is stock
(pistons, fuel pump, regular fuel, No
alki/water, injectors, etc.), 15.9 in
your channel 4 is kind of risky,
considering spiking and overboosting on the
unit (and the very famous now
KNOCK!).
I rather play on the safe side
(14.X), until an upgrade on the stock items.
Someone enlight us more on
this. Thanks
Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Payne, Scott
[mailto:SPayne@hunton.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 5:56 PM
To:
'Berrios, Victor L CIV';
'tEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.ST'Subject:
RE: Team3S: BLITZ Dual SBC-i
channel 1 =48
channel 2
=53
channel 3 =58
channel 4=auto 15.9
gain is 15 on all
channels
- -----Original Message-----
From: Berrios, Victor L CIV
[mailto:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 1:44
PM
To:
'tEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.ST'Subject:
RE: Team3S: BLITZ Dual SBC-i
Hi:
This unit has four channels. My
fourth channel is set as follows:
Boost 14.7 PSI
Gain 25
Limiter
14.7, boost reduction limit 2.
I think 58 is kind of low (~8-9 PSI).
Experts help me here.
Did you have it in the "auto" or "manual"
mode?
Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Payne, Scott [mailto:SPayne@hunton.com]
Sent: Thursday,
January 03, 2002 4:53 PM
To: Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: BLITZ Dual
SBC-i
Was wondering what settings you guys are using on this
controller? I am set
for 58, gain 15. Limiter set for 15.9 psi with a 7 for
boost reduction if
limit is hit.
What is a safe boost to acheive with
a 94 twin turbo, gutted cats, highflow
main cat, downpipe, y-pipe, HKS DLI
ignition, K&N filter charger, BLITZ Dual
SBC-i and NGK plugs?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 19:39:18
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MSD Knock Alert?
I do have it installed. The sensor is in the
rear water plug but this is
exactly what I think is not good.
I tried
to adjust it with the datalogger but was not yet successful in doing
that. At
the moment (car is not properly running) it is not useful but for
tuning
without the datalogger it should help.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
"'Berrios, Victor L CIV'" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>;
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 03, 2002 6:54 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: MSD Knock
Alert?
> > Hi Matt:
> > Where did you get it from?
Price?
>
> Jeg's High Performance...
>
>
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=26719&prmenbr=
>
76
>
> Part number 121-8964
>
> $143.00.
>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 12:47:36
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: MSD Knock Alert?
Hi Victor,
After Matt mentioned it, I
found it also at Summit Racing
http://www.summitracing.comDave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Berrios, Victor L CIV
[SMTP:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002
12:45 PM
> To:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'>
Subject: RE: Team3S: MSD Knock Alert?
>
> Hi Matt:
> Where
did you get it from? Price?
>
> Victor
> '96 Pearl White
VR-4, Searching for knock alert
>
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jannusch, Matt
[mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 4:43
PM
> To: Team3s (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: MSD Knock
Alert?
>
>
> > Since I can't go directly into the ECU
since I have
> > pre-OBDII, does anyone know if the MSD Knock Alert
sensor
> > will work on a 1995 VR4? I'm not sure if it taps
into
> > the ECU or not.
>
> It uses its own knock sensor
that you have to screw into the block.. I've
> got one, but it isn't
on the car yet. I'll report my experiences once the
> car gets back
on the road.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 12:49:20
-0600
From:
overclck@ies.net (Cody
Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Braided brake lines
Why don't ya contact
Geoff Mohler and get a good deal on Porterfield SS
lines...
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent:
Thursday, January 03, 2002 11:53 AM
To: 'Michael Gerhard';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Braided brake lines
Just bought some Russell brake lines for
my boss' 1969 351 Mustang Mach
I
(part of the "Ultimate Suck-up Crhistmas
Package"). They appear to be
the
same construction as the Goodridge brake
lines we have on three VR4's.
Try Goodridge.
Chuck
Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Gerhard
[SMTP:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 11:52
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Braided brake lines
>
> I'm trying to buy
stainless steel braided brakes lines for my '91
3000GT
> VR4 and am
told by Auto Options Salon that there is a very long wait
for
> SMC
brakes lines. They have been able to locate another supplier that
can
> offer Russell brake lines.
>
> I'm wondering if anyone has
heard of Russell and if they have any
comments
>
> or
experience.
>
> Auto Options Salon says they could get Russell
brake lines in a week.
>
> Thanks for any input you can
provide.
>
>
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------
> Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:46:03
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: MSD Knock Alert?
Thanks Dave/Roger:
How difficult is to
install it? Where?
Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Black, Dave (ICT) [mailto:dblai@allstate.com]
Sent:
Thursday, January 03, 2002 6:48 PM
To: 'Berrios, Victor L CIV'
Cc: Team3s
(E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: MSD Knock Alert?
Hi
Victor,
After Matt mentioned it, I found it also at Summit Racing
http://www.summitracing.comDave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Berrios, Victor L CIV
[SMTP:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002
12:45 PM
> To:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'>
Subject: RE: Team3S: MSD Knock Alert?
>
> Hi Matt:
> Where
did you get it from? Price?
>
> Victor
> '96 Pearl White
VR-4, Searching for knock alert
>
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jannusch, Matt
[mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 4:43
PM
> To: Team3s (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: MSD Knock
Alert?
>
>
> > Since I can't go directly into the ECU
since I have
> > pre-OBDII, does anyone know if the MSD Knock Alert
sensor
> > will work on a 1995 VR4? I'm not sure if it taps
into
> > the ECU or not.
>
> It uses its own knock sensor
that you have to screw into the block.. I've
> got one, but it isn't
on the car yet. I'll report my experiences once the
> car gets back
on the road.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 10:57:48
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Rich
I've written a book? :)
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 03, 2002 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Running
Rich
<Blathering snipped>
Yes, do so ! Afterwards write your
own book like Jeffrey
does.
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 11:53:39
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Rich
The spent exhaust gas is mostly inert (for
combustion purposes) and
will tend to "absorb" heat in the combustion chamber
(assuming it is
still in there after it should not be). This is why we
can
recirculate exhaust gas in the EGR system without upsetting the
A/F.
The EGR serves to reduce combustion temps and so reduce
NOx
production (note the EGR occurs when vacuum is in the plenum).
The
temp reduction may also reduce tendency for detonation.
Rich?
Lean? The exhaust gas is nearly inert and will not burn. But if
the exh gas
is a result of a normal WOT situation, then it is the
result of a "rich"-burn
and should contain no oxygen. The fresh
charge entering the chamber should be
at the correct mixture (as
determined by the ECM). The presence of the inert
exh gas in the
chamber should not change the A/F one way or another. But
considering
that there may be some small amount of unexpected (by the ECM)
"fuel"
left in the exh gas, and no oxygen, the mixture should tend to be
a
little "richer" not "leaner", though it should be neither.
The main
consequence of exhaust gas reversion is a reduction in
volumetric efficiency
of the engine, that is, the volume of fresh
charge entering the combustion
chamber is less than the displacement
and less even than it would be under
"normal" situations ("normal"
meaning the natural consequences of throttling
and head design).
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 03, 2002 9:53 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Running
Rich
[Willis, Charles E.] Hard to say which of these is correct
- the
partly combusted gasses will indeed contain some unburned fuel,
and
little or no oxygen, but the concentration of unburned fuel in
the
exhaust gasses will certainly be at a lower concentration than
the
fuel concentration in the incoming fuel-air mixture. The
resulting
mixture in the chamber will be "richer" than the incoming
fuel-air
stream, that is more unburned fuel-to-oxygen ratio than
intended.
I think Jeff is right if all the oygen is indeed consumed in
the
previous combustin cycle.
> > 3) ".. the gases cannot
go out of the combustion chamber and will
be
> > burst again in the
next cycle ... causing a lean situation".
> > What? When running rich,
all oxygen should be consumed and there
> > should be left over fuel.
The phenomenon Roger refers to is
called
> > exhaust gas reversion,
where some of the spent fuel-air mixture
> > cannot leave the
combustion chamber or is drawn back in to it,
and so
> > prevents
the chamber from filling completely with fresh charge.
>
> Same
what I said only more words.
>
> > The result of course in this
case will be extra "fuel" in the
chamber,
> > not a "lean" situation
(extra oxygen).
>
> Aha, so you are saying that when the chamber
cannot be filled that
then
> there is too much fuel ? But we do not
have direct injection cars
and a
> mixture will enter the chamber. If
it cannot enter so why can then
the
> mixture be rich ? This is what
causes a temprarily lean situation
in one
> or
> more cycles in
one or more cylinders.
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:04:45
-0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Wheels/Tires
Would you be interested in selling those to
me?
If so, please let me know ASAP and please include some info (tire
type/size
tread remaining, etc.)
Thanks,
Alex.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
Flash95vr4@aol.com>
To: <
apedenko@attbi.com>
Sent: Monday,
December 17, 2001 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheels/Tires
>
The first owner (5 years) was from NY where they use salt. They use
a
good
> bit here in PA too and I used the ones on the car for last
winter (6th
year)
> then bought these extra wheels from Rich "Old Poop"
Merritt on the list
and
> have had them for a year now.
>
>
The extra wheels are for doing Driver's Ed events on open tracks
(Watkins
> Glen, Mid-Ohio, Lime Rock, etc.) and make it easy to switch to
winter
tires
> since it is just jack the car up and swap
wheels.
>
> I bought them for $500 and would love to sell them for
more but not many
> people will offer too much more since I won't be able
to replace them for
the
> same price (I need beefy wheels that hold up
to a 2G loading from 3,000
> pounds of car compressing after a bump on a
track when doing 120 mph ... I
> don't want a wheel to break at that point
on the track).
>
> --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 15:01:18
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pothole
Check these guys, they may have a deal if they're close
to you.
http://www.fixrim.com/ I
had found a place in ontario,ca offering VR4 replacement rims, rechromed, for
$200.
Can't find it now, but it would only be $50-$75 more if a core charge
applied, ie they could not use your old wheel.
Kurt
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex Pedenko
[mailto:apedenko@attbi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 1:20 PM
To:
Black, Dave (ICT)
Cc: Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Pothole
I called that twice, and both time got a different answer -
first time I was
told that they could do it. Second time I was told that they
would be able
to do it, but since they use heat to straighten it, the chrome
would turn
black.
Any
ideas?
Thanks,
Alex
'95 Vr4 w/ a chrome pain in the *ss
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
To: "'Alex
Pedenko'" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
Cc: "Team3s
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, December 31, 2001 9:43 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Pothole
> Hi Alex,
>
> You may now have some wheel
vibration and possibly a rim leak if it was
bad
> enough. I have
had this happen many times.....living in the Chicago area!
> I have had 2
rim leaks on 2 different wheels. One of which I decided to
> replace
with a restored OEM 18" chromie wheel and the other I had fixed.
I
>
got a restored wheel from a place called TransWheel for about $350.
They
> were also the ones that straightened out my other wheels ($100 per
wheel).
> These were pretty cheap prices considering that the stock 18"
chromies go
> for about $561 from Tallahassee Mitsu. The restored
ones are next to
> impossible to tell from brand new so why pay the extra
money?
>
> The number is 1-800-892-3733. Ask for Tom and tell
him Dave Black from
3Si
> sent you. The website is
http://www.transwheel.com>
>
Dave 95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> > From: Alex Pedenko
[SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> > Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 4:00
PM
> > To: 'Team3S'
> > Subject: Team3S: Pothole
>
>
> > Okay, I hit a pothole that dented my chrome 18" rims :'(
...
> > The dent is about an inch deep towards the center of the wheel.
Tire
> > pressure seems to be holding okay. Anything I should
check/watch out
for?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
>
> Alex
> >
> > '95 VR4 (with a
limp)
> >
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 12:18:55
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pothole
Ive used fixrim..and its also a heat applied
method..not too much to
damage my OEM coated wheels, but there is some heat
involved.
Im a very happy customer of thiers...and if you do a lotta road
race work,
you become a regular customer.
On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Zobel,
Kurt wrote:
> Check these guys, they may have a deal if they're close
to you.
>
http://www.fixrim.com/
>
> I had found a place in ontario,ca offering VR4 replacement
rims, rechromed, for $200.
> Can't find it now, but it would only be
$50-$75 more if a core charge applied, ie they could not use your old
wheel.
>
> Kurt
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Alex Pedenko [mailto:apedenko@attbi.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 1:20 PM
> To: Black, Dave (ICT)
>
Cc: Team3s (E-mail)
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Pothole
>
>
> I called that twice, and both time got a different answer - first time
I was
> told that they could do it. Second time I was told that they would
be able
> to do it, but since they use heat to straighten it, the chrome
would turn
> black.
>
> Any
ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex
>
> '95 Vr4 w/ a chrome pain
in the *ss
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Black,
Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
> To: "'Alex
Pedenko'" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
> Cc: "Team3s
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 9:43 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Pothole
>
>
> > Hi Alex,
> >
> > You
may now have some wheel vibration and possibly a rim leak if it was
>
bad
> > enough. I have had this happen many times.....living in
the Chicago area!
> > I have had 2 rim leaks on 2 different
wheels. One of which I decided to
> > replace with a restored OEM
18" chromie wheel and the other I had fixed.
> I
> > got a
restored wheel from a place called TransWheel for about $350. They
>
> were also the ones that straightened out my other wheels ($100 per
wheel).
> > These were pretty cheap prices considering that the stock
18" chromies go
> > for about $561 from Tallahassee Mitsu. The
restored ones are next to
> > impossible to tell from brand new so why
pay the extra money?
> >
> > The number is
1-800-892-3733. Ask for Tom and tell him Dave Black from
>
3Si
> > sent you. The website is
http://www.transwheel.com>
>
> > Dave 95VR4
> >
http://www.daveblack.net>
>
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > >
From: Alex Pedenko [SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> > > Sent: Sunday,
December 30, 2001 4:00 PM
> > > To: 'Team3S'
> > >
Subject: Team3S: Pothole
> > >
> > > Okay, I hit a
pothole that dented my chrome 18" rims :'( ...
> > > The dent is
about an inch deep towards the center of the wheel. Tire
> > >
pressure seems to be holding okay. Anything I should check/watch out
>
for?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> >
> Alex
> > >
> > > '95 VR4
(with a limp)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 09:53:06
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
Thanks for all the
info, everybody - I've certainly learned a few things
from this
thread. I hope they're the correct things though :-)
One
follow-up question:
If detonation is what we're trying to avoid (either
in and of itself or
because it leads to pre-ignition), then do you think that
using smaller
spark plug gaps would contribute to this?
I often hear
of people running high boost reducing their gaps from the stock
0.039"-0.043"
down as low as 0.028" to combat spark "blow-out" at high
boost. If a
"smaller" spark can cause incomplete (or irregular?) combustion
events, then
could the reduced spark plug gap be increasing the engine's
tendency to
detonate (knock)?
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:26:10
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pothole
I live in Houston and didn't have a good experience
with the local store.
They were real snotty about the remote possibility of
repairing my dented
chrome wheel and that was sight unseen. The flat
rate price to fix aluminum
wheels is good, but the "cost plus" pricing on the
chrome wheels is a little
scary. Also they were rude about the
possibility of any inhouse stock of
refurbished VR4 wheels ("Huh, lots o'
luck! I used to have some of those,
but haven't seen them for
years".)
I hope this is an anomaly. My "tire bitch" has a good
relationship with
them and the stores have a good reputation. I wound
up driving down to
Clear Lake/Friendswood to get my wheel
repaired.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Zobel,
Kurt [SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 2:01
PM
> To: Alex Pedenko
> Cc: Team3s (E-mail)
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pothole
>
> Check these guys, they may have a deal if
they're close to you.
>
http://www.fixrim.com/ >
> I had
found a place in ontario,ca offering VR4 replacement rims,
> rechromed,
for $200.
> Can't find it now, but it would only be $50-$75 more if a core
charge
> applied, ie they could not use your old wheel.
>
> Kurt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alex
Pedenko [mailto:apedenko@attbi.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002
1:20 PM
> To: Black, Dave (ICT)
> Cc: Team3s (E-mail)
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Pothole
>
>
> I called that twice, and
both time got a different answer - first time I
> was
> told that
they could do it. Second time I was told that they would be able
> to do
it, but since they use heat to straighten it, the chrome would turn
>
black.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex
>
> '95 Vr4 w/ a chrome pain
in the *ss
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Black,
Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
> To: "'Alex
Pedenko'" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
> Cc: "Team3s
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 9:43 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Pothole
>
>
> > Hi Alex,
> >
> > You
may now have some wheel vibration and possibly a rim leak if it was
>
bad
> > enough. I have had this happen many times.....living in
the Chicago
> area!
> > I have had 2 rim leaks on 2 different
wheels. One of which I decided to
> > replace with a restored OEM
18" chromie wheel and the other I had fixed.
> I
> > got a
restored wheel from a place called TransWheel for about $350.
>
They
> > were also the ones that straightened out my other wheels ($100
per
> wheel).
> > These were pretty cheap prices considering that
the stock 18" chromies
> go
> > for about $561 from Tallahassee
Mitsu. The restored ones are next to
> > impossible to tell from
brand new so why pay the extra money?
> >
> > The number is
1-800-892-3733. Ask for Tom and tell him Dave Black from
>
3Si
> > sent you. The website is
http://www.transwheel.com>
>
> > Dave 95VR4
> >
http://www.daveblack.net>
>
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > >
From: Alex Pedenko [SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> > > Sent: Sunday,
December 30, 2001 4:00 PM
> > > To: 'Team3S'
> > >
Subject: Team3S: Pothole
> > >
> > > Okay, I hit a
pothole that dented my chrome 18" rims :'( ...
> > > The dent is
about an inch deep towards the center of the wheel. Tire
> > >
pressure seems to be holding okay. Anything I should check/watch out
>
for?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> >
> Alex
> > >
> > > '95 VR4
(with a limp)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 12:29:49
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
No, a smaller
gap wont detonate (or cause it I should say) because
detonation it a hot spot
(or just too hot of an intake charge).
Now, a plug with the wrong heat
range can cause it, because its running
too hot.
On Thu, 3 Jan 2002,
Gross, Erik wrote:
> Thanks for all the info, everybody - I've
certainly learned a few things
> from this thread. I hope
they're the correct things though :-)
>
> One follow-up
question:
>
> If detonation is what we're trying to avoid (either
in and of itself or
> because it leads to pre-ignition), then do you think
that using smaller
> spark plug gaps would contribute to this?
>
> I often hear of people running high boost reducing their gaps from the
stock
> 0.039"-0.043" down as low as 0.028" to combat spark "blow-out" at
high
> boost. If a "smaller" spark can cause incomplete (or
irregular?) combustion
> events, then could the reduced spark plug gap be
increasing the engine's
> tendency to detonate (knock)?
>
>
--Erik
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:55:25
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
On a followup note,
are there plugs other than stock NGK Platinum that
should be used? Are
the stock NGK's cold enough for high-boost
applications?
Dave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 2:30
PM
> To: Gross, Erik
> Cc:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
>
> No, a smaller gap wont detonate (or cause it I should say)
because
> detonation it a hot spot (or just too hot of an intake
charge).
>
> Now, a plug with the wrong heat range can cause it,
because its running
> too hot.
>
> On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Gross,
Erik wrote:
>
> > Thanks for all the info, everybody - I've
certainly learned a few things
> > from this thread. I hope
they're the correct things though :-)
> >
> > One follow-up
question:
> >
> > If detonation is what we're trying to avoid
(either in and of itself or
> > because it leads to pre-ignition), then
do you think that using smaller
> > spark plug gaps would contribute to
this?
> >
> > I often hear of people running high boost
reducing their gaps from the
> stock
> > 0.039"-0.043" down as
low as 0.028" to combat spark "blow-out" at high
> > boost. If a
"smaller" spark can cause incomplete (or irregular?)
> combustion
>
> events, then could the reduced spark plug gap be increasing the
engine's
> > tendency to detonate (knock)?
> >
> >
--Erik
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
> ---
> Geoff Mohler
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 12:45:50
-0800
From: "Jamie Marzonie" <
jsmarzonie@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
Smaller gap =
less resistence = less of a chance for detonation. Running
the stock
0.044 gap is too large, as well as plat plugs. Plat plugs are ONLY
used so
you don't have to tear off the intake plenum and runners as often.
Run
some ngk V power, the ones for a 3g64 turbo work well, I'd go a range or
two
colder though. I'm setting the gap to ~0.038.. maybe 0.035... turbo
will cause your gap to widen over time.
Jamie...
OUT-
>From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>To:
"Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
>CC:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
>Date: Thu, 3 Jan
2002 12:29:49 -0800 (PST)
>
>No, a smaller gap wont detonate (or
cause it I should say) because
>detonation it a hot spot (or just too hot
of an intake charge).
>
>Now, a plug with the wrong heat range can
cause it, because its running
>too hot.
>
>On Thu, 3 Jan 2002,
Gross, Erik wrote:
>
> > Thanks for all the info, everybody -
I've certainly learned a few things
> > from this thread. I
hope they're the correct things though :-)
> >
> > One
follow-up question:
> >
> > If detonation is what we're trying
to avoid (either in and of itself or
> > because it leads to
pre-ignition), then do you think that using smaller
> > spark plug gaps
would contribute to this?
> >
> > I often hear of people
running high boost reducing their gaps from the
>stock
> >
0.039"-0.043" down as low as 0.028" to combat spark "blow-out" at high
>
> boost. If a "smaller" spark can cause incomplete (or irregular?)
>combustion
> > events, then could the reduced spark plug gap be
increasing the engine's
> > tendency to detonate (knock)?
>
>
> > --Erik
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>---
>Geoff
Mohler
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 15:22:14
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
> On a
followup note, are there plugs other than stock NGK
> Platinum that
should be used? Are the stock NGK's cold
> enough for high-boost
applications?
The stock NGK's are too hot for high-boost applications and
are probably
contributing to all the knock that we see at boost levels higher
than 15psi.
How much of the knock it might be causing needs to be researched,
but in
general for every 100 HP increase over stock you should go one range
colder.
I'm switching to copper NGK's 2 ranges colder than stock.
I'll have to
report my experience with them after the car gets
reassembled. They'll need
to be changed probably every 12-15,000 miles
but it isn't that difficult
after you've done it a couple times. If you
choose a range that's too cold
then the plugs might foul if you don't drive
hard enough (ie: spend a lot of
time idling in heavy traffic). We'll
have to experiment to find a happy
medium for the plug temperatures, and each
car will probably be a little
different.
On a happy note - my rods are
done. Reassmbly should commence this weekend.
:-)
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 13:28:49
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
> Smaller gap =
less resistence = less of a chance for
> detonation.
I'm
not sure I understand - can you elaborate? I get that a smaller
gap
means less resistance and that you have a more reliable spark
(especially
when air density increases), but how does this reduce the chance
of
detonation?
> Running the stock 0.044 gap is too large,
Why do I hear this so often as a blanket statement? Even if you
add "for
running XX psi" to the end of the sentence, it's still dependent on
your
ignition and ambient conditions (temp, pressure). And I'm pretty
sure that
the value of "XX" is above 16 for most conditions.
Maybe I'll pull my plugs before I have to replace them and check the
gaps...
AFAIK, they're the original plugs with 37,XXX miles on them and I run
up to
14psi on a regular basis. I've briefly run up to 16psi (NOT
intentionally)
and never, NEVER, ever had spark blow out. Even on a
cold, humid, rainy PNW
night going up a loooong hill with it floored in 4th
gear from around
3000RPM to 6000RPM. What gives? I'm really
curious to see if I get any
spark blow-out when I get my WI system installed
and tuned... maybe I'll
have to chew some words then and close my
gaps.... but hopefully I won't
:-)
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
(BPU+)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 17:04:45
-0500
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Polished and powder spark plug plates
Just wanted to let you all know
that I have received my complete shipment of
spark plug plates today.
If anyone is interested, in picking up a polished
plate with powder coated
letters, in about any color you would like please
let me know.
The
plates are etched with Twin Turbo, GTO both with and without the
Mitsubishi
diamonds, 3000GT, with and without the Mitsubishi diamond (one
diamond) and
Stealth. I currently have two on ebay now.
Blue Stealth
plate:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=599709988&
r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1010284152&indexURL=0&rd=1
Red
3000GT plate:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=599710854&
r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1010285225&indexURL=0&rd=1
If
you guys are interested don't worry about bidding just come to
me
directly. I sell them for $60, shipping runs around $4 in the US,
again
done in any color you like.
I'll have a Stealth plate and a GTO
(without diamonds) both done in red on
ebay this next week if you like to
take a look.
I polish/powder coat plenums and valve covers, if interested
let me know and
I can send you some picutres of my work.
Thanks guys
just want to make sure you knew you could get these with out
bidding, and
save some $.
Dave Best
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 16:05:14
-0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Pothole
Thanks for everybody's
suggestions.
I went to the place out in Chicago (trans
wheel) and had a similar
experience. The guy took one look at the wheel,
cringed and said that there
is nothing he can do - the wheel will crack if he
tries anything. As far as
replacements go, he told me that new, the 18"
chrome costs ~700 and he gets
2, maybe 3 per year so "tough luck"
I'm
gonna take some pics and throw them up on the web, see what ppl
say.
Thanks,
Alex
'95 VR4
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'Zobel, Kurt'" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>; "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
Cc: "Team3s
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 03, 2002 2:26 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Pothole
> I live in Houston and didn't have a good experience with
the local store.
> They were real snotty about the remote possibility of
repairing my dented
> chrome wheel and that was sight unseen. The
flat rate price to fix
aluminum
> wheels is good, but the "cost plus"
pricing on the chrome wheels is a
little
> scary. Also they were
rude about the possibility of any inhouse stock of
> refurbished VR4
wheels ("Huh, lots o' luck! I used to have some of those,
> but
haven't seen them for years".)
>
> I hope this is an anomaly.
My "tire bitch" has a good relationship with
> them and the stores have a
good reputation. I wound up driving down to
> Clear Lake/Friendswood
to get my wheel repaired.
>
> Chuck
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Zobel, Kurt [SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
>
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 2:01 PM
> > To: Alex
Pedenko
> > Cc: Team3s (E-mail)
> > Subject: RE: Team3S:
Pothole
> >
> > Check these guys, they may have a deal if
they're close to you.
> >
http://www.fixrim.com/> >
>
> I had found a place in ontario,ca offering VR4 replacement rims,
>
> rechromed, for $200.
> > Can't find it now, but it would only be
$50-$75 more if a core charge
> > applied, ie they could not use your
old wheel.
> >
> > Kurt
> >
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Alex Pedenko
[mailto:apedenko@attbi.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 1:20
PM
> > To: Black, Dave (ICT)
> > Cc: Team3s (E-mail)
>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Pothole
> >
> >
> > I
called that twice, and both time got a different answer - first time I
>
> was
> > told that they could do it. Second time I was told that
they would be
able
> > to do it, but since they use heat to
straighten it, the chrome would
turn
> > black.
> >
>
> Any ideas?
> >
>
> Thanks,
> >
>
> Alex
> >
> > '95 Vr4 w/ a chrome
pain in the *ss
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
> > To:
"'Alex Pedenko'" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
> > Cc:
"Team3s (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 9:43 AM
> > Subject: RE: Team3S:
Pothole
> >
> >
> > > Hi Alex,
> >
>
> > > You may now have some wheel vibration and possibly a rim
leak if it
was
> > bad
> > > enough. I have had
this happen many times.....living in the Chicago
> > area!
> >
> I have had 2 rim leaks on 2 different wheels. One of which I
decided
to
> > > replace with a restored OEM 18" chromie wheel
and the other I had
fixed.
> > I
> > > got a restored
wheel from a place called TransWheel for about $350.
> > They
>
> > were also the ones that straightened out my other wheels ($100
per
> > wheel).
> > > These were pretty cheap prices
considering that the stock 18" chromies
> > go
> > > for
about $561 from Tallahassee Mitsu. The restored ones are next to
>
> > impossible to tell from brand new so why pay the extra money?
>
> >
> > > The number is 1-800-892-3733. Ask for Tom and
tell him Dave Black
from
> > 3Si
> > > sent you.
The website is
http://www.transwheel.com> >
>
> > > Dave 95VR4
> > >
http://www.daveblack.net> >
>
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
>
> > > From: Alex Pedenko [SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> > >
> Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 4:00 PM
> > > > To:
'Team3S'
> > > > Subject: Team3S: Pothole
> > >
>
> > > > Okay, I hit a pothole that dented my chrome 18" rims
:'( ...
> > > > The dent is about an inch deep towards the center
of the wheel. Tire
> > > > pressure seems to be holding okay.
Anything I should check/watch out
> > for?
> > >
>
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > >
> Alex
> > > >
> > > >
'95 VR4 (with a limp)
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> >
> > > > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> > >
> > > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> >
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 16:59:57
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Knock, detonation, pre-ignition (kinda long)
Matt,
Then
what would the appropriate plug gaps be for the colder plugs? Do
you
have the part numbers for the copper plugs?
Thanks!
Dave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch, Matt
[SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 3:22
PM
> To: Team3s (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Knock, detonation,
pre-ignition (kinda long)
>
> > On a followup note, are there
plugs other than stock NGK
> > Platinum that should be used? Are
the stock NGK's cold
> > enough for high-boost applications?
>
> The stock NGK's are too hot for high-boost applications and are
probably
> contributing to all the knock that we see at boost levels
higher than
> 15psi.
> How much of the knock it might be causing
needs to be researched, but in
> general for every 100 HP increase over
stock you should go one range
> colder.
>
> I'm switching to
copper NGK's 2 ranges colder than stock. I'll have to
> report my
experience with them after the car gets reassembled. They'll
>
need
> to be changed probably every 12-15,000 miles but it isn't that
difficult
> after you've done it a couple times. If you choose a
range that's too
> cold
> then the plugs might foul if you don't
drive hard enough (ie: spend a lot
> of
> time idling in heavy
traffic). We'll have to experiment to find a happy
> medium for the
plug temperatures, and each car will probably be a little
>
different.
>
> On a happy note - my rods are done. Reassmbly
should commence this
> weekend.
> :-)
>
> -Matt
>
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 18:01:52
-0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Aftermarket ECU's
I told Jason Siebels, now at AEM responsible for the
"AEM Computer", way
back in 3 or 4/2000 that there were 3 main ECU versions
of 3000GTVR4--91-93
OBDI, 94-95 OBDI with OBDII harness, and 96+ OBDII.
I told him I'd need a
version for my 93, and a different one with proper
pinout adjustments for my
94.
They are NOT the same; most are same but
there are changes, which is why
even the relatively SIMPLE HKS VPC needed
wiring change to work at all on
the 94. If they aren't making different
versions for the different years,
they just don't care enough to do the job
right and will wait for complaints
before "looking into it". I hope
they WILL have the proper versions from
the get-go, maybe they are working on
that now.
Since the computer was supposed to come out in December/January
(you know,
THIS MONTH) let's see just what comes out when.
I sure hope it
comes out and works properly someday; it has looked great fpr
over 2 years
now...
Gumball Rally, re: Jag that wouldn't start:
"It's an elegant
design." "Yeah. I only wish it RAN."
From: "Roger Gerl"
<
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Sent:
Thursday, January 03, 2002
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aftermarket ECU's
> I
can't wait for the first experiences.... buy it, install it and ...
report
please ;-)
> AEM said that there is only one harness for all years
... interesting. I
> emailed them again with the question regarding OBDII
having troubles with
a
> non-existing stock ECU and non-responding
sub-devices. No answer
> anymore.....
> Gooood luck for the
guinea-pig
> Roger
> From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
> > From:
Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Date: Wednesday, January 02, 2002
> > >The PMS says it works on
all years also - and it does! You just tell
them
> > >what
year car you have and they send the right cables along. Probably
>
> >something similar with the AEM. At least you'd hope
so.
> > I hope so too since they (AEM) lists the part # as
:
> > 3000GT VR4 1992-00 30-1311
> > They also
say:
> > This user-programmable system plugs directly into a vehicle's
factory
> > ECU harness and requires no additional
wiring.
> > Something doesn't add up. Not only are the plugs
different
> > but the wires/numbering don't match up exactly from 1st
to
> > 2nd generation. Even when connecting something as
"simple"
> > as an ITC - you have to access a different wiring diagram
depending
> > on year and whether it is a US model or not.
> >
More for those that are interested:
> > The AEM EMS's
infinitely-adjustable software allows tuners to program
> >
virtually any combination of engine control, power adders and auxiliary
>
> devices, and accurately deliver proper amounts of fuel and correct
>
> ignition timing for ANY boost level or operating condition.
>
> Plug & Play Programmable Engine Management System
> > Plug
& Play Technology - No additional wiring necessary
> > Installs in
minutes!
> > Runs on Windows™ Based Software
> > 16/32 Hybrid
High-Speed Processor
> > Base Maps included
> > Onboard
datalogging
> > Sequential Fuel Injection
> > Interactive,
User-friendly Manual
> > Nitrous, Boost and Knock control
> >
Forced induction compatible
> > They also sell a 2nd version
called:
> > The AEM Race Programmable Engine Management System
>
> And it lists:
> > User configurable Windows™ software (requires a
minimum Pentium 100 PC
> > Comes with complete library of tuning tips
and system design
> > User programmable inputs and outputs*
>
> Up to 10 cylinder sequential fuel injection with individual
cylinder
trim
> > Up to 10 cylinder wasted spark distributor less
ignition with individual
> > cylinder trim
> > Twin O2 sensor
closed loop control (Wide range, and UEGO)
> > Exhaust Gas Temperature
(EGT) feedback
> > Idle motor control
> > Extensive Electronic
Automatic
> > transmission control
> > Interactive User
Friendly manual
> > Twin Knock sensing control
> > Requires
Wiring of Vehicle
> > I can't hardly keep track of everything I'm
monitoring/setting up now!
> > Imagine all that .....
> > -
tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 17:11:14
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Pothole
Alex
I have an extra set of 94 VR-4 rims for sale ---
condition varies from very good
to OK at 15 feet. They currently have a set
of worn A032's on them that I was
going to remove. The tires probably have
one good weekend of open track left
in
them.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Alex Pedenko <
apedenko@attbi.com>
To: Willis,
Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>;
'Zobel, Kurt' <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Cc: Team3s (E-mail)
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 03, 2002 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Pothole
> Thanks for everybody's suggestions.
>
> I went to the place out in Chicago (trans
wheel) and had a similar
> experience. The guy took one look at the wheel,
cringed and said that there
> is nothing he can do - the wheel will crack
if he tries anything. As far as
> replacements go, he told me that new,
the 18" chrome costs ~700 and he gets
> 2, maybe 3 per year so "tough
luck"
>
> I'm gonna take some pics and throw them up on the web,
see what ppl say.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex
>
> '95 VR4
>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
To: "'Zobel, Kurt'" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>; "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
> Cc: "Team3s
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 2:26 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Pothole
>
>
> > I live in Houston and didn't have a good
experience with the local store.
> > They were real snotty about the
remote possibility of repairing my dented
> > chrome wheel and that was
sight unseen. The flat rate price to fix
> aluminum
> >
wheels is good, but the "cost plus" pricing on the chrome wheels is a
>
little
> > scary. Also they were rude about the possibility of
any inhouse stock of
> > refurbished VR4 wheels ("Huh, lots o'
luck! I used to have some of those,
> > but haven't seen them for
years".)
> >
> > I hope this is an anomaly. My "tire
bitch" has a good relationship with
> > them and the stores have a good
reputation. I wound up driving down to
> > Clear Lake/Friendswood
to get my wheel repaired.
> >
> > Chuck
> > >
-----Original Message-----
> > > From: Zobel, Kurt
[SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
> > > Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 2:01
PM
> > > To: Alex Pedenko
> > > Cc: Team3s
(E-mail)
> > > Subject: RE: Team3S: Pothole
> >
>
> > > Check these guys, they may have a deal if they're close
to you.
> > >
http://www.fixrim.com/> >
>
> > > I had found a place in ontario,ca offering VR4
replacement rims,
> > > rechromed, for $200.
> > > Can't
find it now, but it would only be $50-$75 more if a core charge
> >
> applied, ie they could not use your old wheel.
> > >
>
> > Kurt
> > >
> > > -----Original
Message-----
> > > From: Alex Pedenko
[mailto:apedenko@attbi.com]
> > > Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002
1:20 PM
> > > To: Black, Dave (ICT)
> > > Cc: Team3s
(E-mail)
> > > Subject: Re: Team3S: Pothole
> >
>
> > >
> > > I called that twice, and both time got
a different answer - first time I
> > > was
> > > told
that they could do it. Second time I was told that they would be
>
able
> > > to do it, but since they use heat to straighten it, the
chrome would
> turn
> > > black.
> > >
>
> > Any ideas?
> > >
> >
> Thanks,
> > >
> >
> Alex
> > >
> > > '95 Vr4 w/
a chrome pain in the *ss
> > >
> > > ----- Original
Message -----
> > > From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
> > >
To: "'Alex Pedenko'" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
> > >
Cc: "Team3s (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> > Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 9:43 AM
> > > Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pothole
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hi
Alex,
> > > >
> > > > You may now have some wheel
vibration and possibly a rim leak if it
> was
> > >
bad
> > > > enough. I have had this happen many
times.....living in the Chicago
> > > area!
> > > > I
have had 2 rim leaks on 2 different wheels. One of which I decided
>
to
> > > > replace with a restored OEM 18" chromie wheel and the
other I had
> fixed.
> > > I
> > > > got a
restored wheel from a place called TransWheel for about $350.
> > >
They
> > > > were also the ones that straightened out my other
wheels ($100 per
> > > wheel).
> > > > These were
pretty cheap prices considering that the stock 18" chromies
> > >
go
> > > > for about $561 from Tallahassee Mitsu. The
restored ones are next to
> > > > impossible to tell from brand
new so why pay the extra money?
> > > >
> > > >
The number is 1-800-892-3733. Ask for Tom and tell him Dave Black
>
from
> > > 3Si
> > > > sent you. The website is
http://www.transwheel.com> >
> >
> > > > Dave 95VR4
> > > >
http://www.daveblack.net> > >
>
> > > >
> > > > > -----Original
Message-----
> > > > > From: Alex Pedenko
[SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> > > > > Sent: Sunday, December 30,
2001 4:00 PM
> > > > > To: 'Team3S'
> > > >
> Subject: Team3S: Pothole
> > > > >
> > > >
> Okay, I hit a pothole that dented my chrome 18" rims :'( ...
> >
> > > The dent is about an inch deep towards the center of the wheel.
Tire
> > > > > pressure seems to be holding okay. Anything I
should check/watch out
> > > for?
> > > >
>
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
>
> > > > Alex
> > > >
>
> > > > > '95 VR4 (with a limp)
> > > >
>
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> > > >
> > > > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> > >
> > > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#716
***************************************
