Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, January 1
2002 Volume 01 : Number
714
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
31 Dec 2001 20:28:52 -0800
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 4-bolt conversion answers
Ken Middaugh:
If you are
doing a 4-bolt main conversion please visit my webpage I think it will answer
all of your questions:
http://hometown.aol.com/johnmonnin/6fourbolt1.htmlDon’t
bother using the 4-bolt timing sprocket if you are keeping the CAS on the
heads. The 4-bolt timing sprocket MD184894 does not have the spacer and
blade need to use them. All you have to do is install the 2-bolt sprocket
1 tooth off. I used a dial indicator to verify that when the #1
piston at TDC the mark on the 2-bolt sprocket is one tooth off. The
See picture on this page. (This page also has pictures of al lof the parts I had
to modify)
http://hometown.aol.com/johnmonnin/Modifiedparts1.htmlYou
will also see a picture of the new 4-bolt timing sprocket MD184894 that I bought
and did not use. If anybody wants it I will sell it cheap! If you
have the CAS on the front of the block you will need this part a backer
and a blade.
You do not need to replace the harmonic balancer. Per
CAPs the 4-bolt main crank is a direct replacement for 2-bolt main crank so the
2-bolt and 4-bolt harmonic balancer must also be interchangable. I do not
know why they have different numbers. The 4-bolt timing cover will
now lineup perfectly with the mark on the 2-bolt harmonic balance
pulley.
Below is a link to comparison pictures between 2-bolt and 4-bolt
main parts:
http://hometown.aol.com/johnmonnin/pictures4bolts1.htmlFor
a complete list of parts and prices that I bought to do this conversion go to
the link below:
http://hometown.aol.com/johnmonnin/Cost4bolt1.htmlP.S.
Welcome to the 4-bolt main conversion club. “The club you are proud to be
a member of but wish you were not asked to join!” When you get your new
engine started let me know and I will add you to my 4-bolt main conversion club
webpage.
http://hometown.aol.com/johnmonnin/Conversionclub1.htmlJohn
Monnin
1991 VR-4 with 4-bolt main conversion
- - --- Ken
Middaugh <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
wrote:
> Hi Folks,
>
> I hope someone with CAPS is
not on vacation! I was
> hoping to install my
> 4-bolt conversion
engine tomorrow and need someone
> with CAPS to verify a few
>
part numbers for me.
>
> I need to know if the following
parts have different
> part numbers for 1st
> gen and 2nd gen
engines:
> crankshaft timing belt pulley/sprocket
> harmonic
balancer
> lower timing belt cover
>
> Problem:
> I am doing a 4-bolt main conversion on my blown '91
>
engine. I installed the
> timing belt using my '91 crankshaft
timing belt
> pulley, a new harmonic
> balancer, and a new lower
timing belt cover. (I
> ordered everything from
> Norco Mitsu, so
I assumed the harmonic balancer and
> lower cover are for the
>
2nd gen engine. At the time, I didn't know the
> balancer and
pulley were two
> parts). I aligned everything up just fine using
the
> mark on the crankshaft
> timing belt pulley and the marks on
the camshaft
> sprockets. However, when I
> installed the
new timing belt cover and balancer,
> the mark on the balancer
>
does not line up with the 0 degree mark on the
> cover, even though the
mark
> on the crankshaft tbelt pulley is lined up with the
> mark
on the oil pump.
>
> Anyway, before I install the engine, I
like to
> resolve this problem.
>
> Thanks in
advance,
> Ken
Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista
Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 00:10:31
-0700
From: "Zach Sauerman" <
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Lessons learned while re-doing the 60k
Fellows,
For those that
may be approaching their first try at the 60k maintenance
cycle, here are a
few of my lessons learned.
First, plan ahead. My water pump went south and I
had to learn what to do,
how to do it, and gather what I could to do it. I
have to be back in
Colorado this Wednesday and so didn't have much time to
get everything
together. Not fun.
The 60k step-by-step on the homepage is
extremely helpful- use that
alongside your repair manual.
The special
tools called for in the manual can be improvised. We welded
together what
looked like the first generation end yoke holder and it worked
great.
Tonight I put together the tool to do the timing tensioner. For that
I used
a 7/16" socket, two thin tool bits that fit in the holes, and a
heaping
helping of both JB QuikWeld and regular JB Weld. Improv probably
isn't
recommended, but sometimes there is no choice. It can be done when you
can't
buy the tools.
Save yourself some skin and possible eye injury from
catapulted tools when
playing with the front bank cams- The repair manual
shows some illustrated
guy holding two wrenches at the same time to keep
them still- trying that
caused the spilling forth of choice words. There are
threaded holes behind
each sprocket that will accept the 12mm bolts that
were removed from the
front of that brace holding the alternator. Find some
big washers and use
those bolts to hold the cam sprockets still- not so
tight like a clamp, but
enough to prevent the spontaneous snap that mine
were anxious to do. Gives
you free hands to deal with the belt. Have a
helper to hold the cam still
with a box wrench while you get in there with a
bolt and washer- I wouldn't
send a helper in to do the bolt because of
safety-> it's your car, so you
take the risk of having a finger pinched.
Don't try to hold the cam still
with a socket or open wrench,
either.
When pulling the water pump, you can prevent a big mess with a turkey
pan
and slow removal to allow the water to drain out at its own pace. Only
five
14mm bolts hold the water pump to the car, not those five and the
countless
smaller ones- save yourself that bit of trouble. And keep your
bolts
organized to put them back from where they came.
Craftsman makes
deals now that fit into sockets but let you use an open or
box wrench for
tight spots. These are helpful.
I haven't finished yet, but I wanted to share
some info for others who may
be up for this task. Above all- change your
water pump when you do the belt!
I am doing this now because the first
owners only had the belt done, and 30k
later I get to do it
again.
Cheers,
Zach Sauerman
'94 Pearl Yellow
TT
_________________________________________________________________
MSN
Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 10:38:47
-0800 (PST)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: egr
pipe block plate
Has anyone on the list done this? What are the benefits
and/or side
effects of this modification? It would be easy to make the plate
but
should a vacuum line be blocked as well and will it send a code
that
it is malfunctioning to the computer? Thanks,
Casey
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 10:41:57
-0800 (PST)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
vacuum line problem
There are two vacuum lines coming out of the stock
boost selenoid. I
have the bottom one going to my manual boost
controller but what does
the top one go to? The top hose on my car is
not hooked up to
anything I can't see anywhere that it would go. Thanks,
Casey
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 14:04:28
-0500
From: MIHAI RAICU <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
Hello everyone,
I wanted to wish everyone a
Happy New Year, full of joy,
realizations and lots of MODS!
John
Raicu
94 Yellow TT
&
Mihai Raicu
95 Red VR-4
PS: The
technical part of this email was "lots of MODS"...
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 13:09:35
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: vacuum line problem
The service manual is very helpful in
answering questions like this.
In case you don't have yours with you or have
not received it yet,
you can look at the pic on my web site below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-vacuumhoses.htmThe
bottom hose goes to to the "H" connector and the Y-pipe pressure
reference
hose (and wastegate actuators). The top hose sends the bled
off air to the
intake hose in front of the rear turbo. You should be
more concerned about
what is connected to that nipple on the rear
intake hose if the BC sol. hose
is not. Unfiltered air to the turbo
increases the potential for damage to the
compressor wheel.
Pic of that intake hose (left side of top pic, yellow
arrow):
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius3/j3-2-dnp-intakepipes.htmWhy
is the stock BC sol. still being used with your manual boost
controller
(assuming it is not a clamp type?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- --- Casey
Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
wrote:
> There are two vacuum lines coming out of the stock boost
selenoid.
> I
> have the bottom one going to my manual boost
controller but what
> does
> the top one go to? The top hose
on my car is not hooked up to
> anything I can't see anywhere that it
would go. Thanks,
Casey
__________________________________________________
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Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 17:57:11
EST
From:
NETM1NDER@aol.comSubject: Team3S: GT-Pro
Split Second Intake/Fuel Comuter
Does anyone have this on their car and
what do you think of this product?
Chris
95Vr4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 18:08:03
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: GT-Pro Split Second Intake/Fuel Comuter
> Does anyone have
this on their car and what do you think of
> this product?
I had
one on my car... It is "okay", but I think the adjustments are
too
coarse. There are better things already here or coming soon for
similar
money.
EFI Systems PMS:
http://www.efisystems.com/pms.htmAEM
EMS:
http://www.aempower.com/ems.htm-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 16:27:49
-0800
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
Team3S: FW: Club3S & The 3S National Gathering!! (Long, Enthusiasts
Please Read)
This is from Paul about his company going up. Just
forwarding for him
cause his outgoing email is not working I
guess.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway
Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Butkiewicz
[mailto:3S@DiabloEnterprises.com]
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 1:49
PM
To: Starnet Mailing List
Subject: Club3S & The 3S National
Gathering!! (Long, Enthusiasts Please
Read)
Hi
everyone, been a while since I've posted, but I wanted to fill
everyone in on
what's been going on with my
business
(DiabloEnterprises.com).
Background info
for the people I don't talk to much and newbies: A
few months ago, I
started putting together a small internet-based 3/S
performance retail
company. Basically, I figured by not having a retail
store and drop shipping
most of my products, I could keep prices down
and offer some great deals to
all of you.
People began emailing me about products for
their other cars and
soon people who don't even know what a 3/S is were
emailing and calling
about products. I then realized the potential this has
and have been
very busy trying to establish accounts and such to make it an
all-out
internet-based import performance company.
I should be all setup in the next few weeks, and wanted to ensure
everyone I
did not forget my roots. I am going to be setting up a
membership
program for 3/S owners. I'm planning discounts, group-buys,
weekly 3S
mailings (gatherings info, new products, car of the week...),
custom 3/S
memorablia only available to members, and maybe even raffles
and an
affiliate-type program.
I've already OK'ed custom 3S
Corbeau Racing seats and am in the
process of speaking with someone who makes
laser cut crystal about some
really nice coffee table conversation
pieces. =)
Please go to
www.DiabloEnterprises.com and click
on the Club 3S
logo. That will bring you to a page with a link to the
membship
application. It's free and the only requirement is you own a
3/S. I
highly recommend you be a 3Si member as well, as this may
qualify you
for better discounts. Eric Lotter puts a lot of his own
time and money
into 3Si and many of you take advantage of the 3Si discounts
from Mitsu
and other dealers witout even being a member. Pay the few
bucks to
become a member, get a cool sticker, and help support all the things
3Si
has done for you.
Also, I'd like to remind everyone
to sign-up for the 3S National
Gathering. There's a link to it on my
webpage and I hope there will be
a huge outcome. I'm not making any
promises, but there may be some of
those custom 3S Corbeau Racing Seats
raffled off...
If someone on the other lists/boards
(Team3S, 3S-Racers, JRC-3Si,
3Si Board, etc..) could forward or post this
email, I'd greatly
appreciate it. I've been having problems with my
outgoing mail server
and can't post to those lists right now. Also,
anyone with a 3S-related
webpage that wants to throw up a link for Club3S,
you're more than
welcome to link right up to the logo on the website.
Email me for code
if you don't know how or don't want to figure it out.
=)
Remember, the club is for us all. The more
members, the more
buying-power we'll have, so get the word out to the lists,
boards,
webpages, and friends!
Have a safe and happy new year!
And remember, no drinking and driving!!
=) Paul Butkiewicz Proud Member of
3Si: #1127 Diablo Enterprises :
Club3S Phone/Fax 781-769-4180 Norwood,
MA 02062-4012
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/ http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 16:52:30
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: GT-Pro Split Second Intake/Fuel Comuter
What are people
paying for these types of units?
On Tue, 1 Jan 2002, Jannusch, Matt
wrote:
> > Does anyone have this on their car and what do you think
of
> > this product?
>
> I had one on my car... It
is "okay", but I think the adjustments are too
> coarse. There are
better things already here or coming soon for similar
> money.
>
> EFI Systems PMS:
>
>
http://www.efisystems.com/pms.htm>
> AEM EMS:
>
>
http://www.aempower.com/ems.htm>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 19:02:19
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: GT-Pro Split Second Intake/Fuel Comuter
> What are people
paying for these types of units?
I'm in for about $1450 for the
fully-blown PMS with MAP sensor and full
datalogging with Windows
InterACQ.
I don't know exactly what the AEM EMS costs, but it is
supposedly similar in
price, but I haven't confirmed that since I'm going to
give the PMS a try in
the spring. It worked well in my Eclipse GSX and
I'm familiar with it so
that's partly why I decided to follow that
route.
I wonder if the AEM EMS is what the GT Pro folks have been working
with
lately.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 17:04:03
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: GT-Pro Split Second Intake/Fuel Comuter
I guess I screwed
up.
What are people paying for AFM replacements, not including
other
management products.
On Tue, 1 Jan 2002, Jannusch, Matt
wrote:
> > What are people paying for these types of units?
>
> I'm in for about $1450 for the fully-blown PMS with MAP sensor and
full
> datalogging with Windows InterACQ.
>
> I don't know
exactly what the AEM EMS costs, but it is supposedly similar in
> price,
but I haven't confirmed that since I'm going to give the PMS a try in
>
the spring. It worked well in my Eclipse GSX and I'm familiar with it
so
> that's partly why I decided to follow that route.
>
> I
wonder if the AEM EMS is what the GT Pro folks have been working with
>
lately.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 18:40:04
-0800
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Other manufacturers' keyless remotes
Does anyone know if
it's possible to use the Mitsu remote receiver (in my
case a 92 VR4 (in I
have one, that is)) to work with another manufacturer's
remote sender (in my
case an '00 Subaru)?
P.S. Happy new year to all! I hope y'all
are getting in some extra drive
time during the
holidays!
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 21:46:31
EST
From:
NETM1NDER@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
GT-Pro Split Second Intake/Fuel Comuter
1029.00 to 1299. at dynamic
racing.
Chris 95VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 22:09:58
EST
From:
NETM1NDER@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
GT-Pro Split Second Intake/Fuel Comuter
You said that you had one on your
car did you take it off and replace it with
the PMS.
How do I get this
product?
Chris 95VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 22:52:38
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: GT-Pro Split Second Intake/Fuel Comuter
> You said that
you had one on your car did you take it off
> and replace it with the
PMS. How do I get this product?
Follow the link provided in my
original message:
http://www.efisystems.comYou can
also send them an e-mail if you have questions:
Sales:
efirick@mindspring.comTech:
efidoug@mindspring.comDoug
is the guy who created the PMS units and is very knowlegable
about
them. There is also a PMS Tuning e-mail list on Yahoo
groups. I haven't
run into anyone with experience with them on 3/S cars
yet, but hopefully
that'll change. There's a picture of the 3/S version
at the bottom of my
homepage (such as it is):
http://people.mn.mediaone.net/mjannusch/Call
them up and they'll take Visa and ship it out to you. If you
are
serious about tuning, I'd recommend going all-out and getting the MAP
sensor
option and the full InterACQ datalogging/programming software.
InterACQ
also enables you to use the Standalone mode. It has lots of
features like
2-step revlimiting, realtime selectable programs and other
things.
The user's guide is available in Acrobat format here:
http://www.efisystems.com/manuals/mitsubishi/Mit3000GTOP-01.pdfInterACQ
software manual is here:
http://www.efisystems.com/manuals/intacq/User's_Guide1.pdfMy
car isn't running yet (I'm in the process of rebuilding my motor) so I
can't
give any real-world opinions on how well it works yet. I can only
say
that it worked pretty well on my DSM car.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#714
***************************************