Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Thursday, December 27 2001  Volume 01 : Number 709




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Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 10:47:27 -0500
From: "Stewart, Clay" <cdstewar@UU.NET>
Subject: Team3S: Xmas under a VR4

What we will not do for our children?  I spent Christmas day under my 21
year old son's 91' VR4 to determine if a dealer was correct in that the
'transmission', transfer case and clutch had to be replaced at $7,400. The
car, accelerating from a parking lot onto a side street came to a stop with
a 'crack' noise. At that point the car would barely move forward.  My son
says he had heard a clicking noise that came and went a few days before this
happened. Since the dealer used the term 'transmission' for a transaxle, and
I knew the clutch was new . . . I didn't quite trust the evaluation.  (not
to mention they didn't even have the keys to start the car during the
evaluation period.)

I pulled the Transfer case off (many thanks to all of you with repair and
help WebPages) and found what I hope to be the problem, but need advice!

First, there was only one or two ounces at most of gear oil in the transfer
case. The splines on the drive gear of the shaft coming from the Transaxle
that goes into the female entry of the Transfer case's bevel gear assembly
are about 1/2 gone.  The female portion doesn't look so hot either . . .
looks like a few women I have dated.  I poured out about 4-5 five beer caps
of rusty looking filings as well.  The worm gear and drive gears turned
freely, and visually did not see any burn or other problems.  (tolerances
not measured though).  But they look good.  I noticed that the transfer case
had markings (writing) signifying a rebuild.

My questions are . . . if the gear is stripped out enough to not drive the
transfer case (guessing), and only the transaxle is going to try and drive
the front wheels, what will happen?  Will it be the result of what we are
experiencing, car could barely move forward?  Because the Viscous coupling
is confused where to transfer power?  Also, shouldn't there be a gasket or
seal for the cover that holds the transfer case's bevel gear assembly?
There was nothing between the surfaces.  Best advice on where to get these
specific gears?

While the car was up on blocks, and the transfer case completely removed, I
started the car and it began switching gears just fine and running the front
wheels with no noise or problems.  Transaxle gear oil was fine.

Lastly, I have 3-4 digital pictures close up of the drive gear and female
gear, if anyone needs to see them, or perhaps keeping a collection for a
webpage or historical reference.  Will be glad to exchange the help with
more digital pictures as the work continues on the car.  I fully expect I
will be pulling the transaxle in order to replace the transaxle's drive
gear.

I know my email signature shows me as a 'most nerdy computer guy', but
before this, I was a Navy Machinist, including all of their schools.  I sold
my soul to computers even though my hands loved the cold grease and metal on
a crisp 20 degree day like yesterday.  Maybe this car will help me get a
little of my soul back?  First time working on this model car, see why you
guys like it.  Now I have to get me one.


Clay Stewart - "Software development for 26 years and counting . . ."
Sr. Web Applications Developer

SBI, Inc. - Advanced Internet Services
Supporting UUNET, a Worldcom Company
- -------------------------------------->>>
Ashburn Campus
F1-3-534
email:  c-clay.stewart@wcom.com


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 11:16:39 -0500
From: Michael Pliska <mjpliska@prodigy.net>
Subject: Team3S: Crank Pulley rotating?

Does anyone have a crank pulley, or good photos of one, that they could
look at to confirm my suspicions?

I am in the process of changing the timing belt in my 1991 VR4, and
noticed that the timing mark (groove) on the crank pulley is at ~40°
BTDC (estimating from the timing cover marks) when the cam marks are at
their correct positions.  BTW, the front exhaust cam appears to be
retarded by 1 tooth, which I assume (hope) is the only slippage (the car
still ran, but idled rough and was down on power).  I am assuming that
the outer ring (actual pulley portion) slipped on the crank pulley.
With the crank outer pulley timing mark in its 40° position, the crank
key is just past the 6:00 position, and the crank indexing pin (for the
pulley) is just before 12:00 position.  I haven't gotten the idler
pulleys & lower cover off yet, so I don't know the position of the mark
on the crank timing pulley.

Do these mark positions agree with yours?  Has anyone heard of the
pulley slipping?  I would have assumed that there was some sort of
load-bearing pin to prevent rotation, since the outer rings of the
pulley must carry significant torque.

Thanks and regards,
Michael Pliska

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 09:58:22 -0800
From: Michael Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake bleeding

I just purchased a universal power bleeder and have yet to try it out. The
web site is...

http://www.motiveproducts.com/index.htm

Mine arrived in 2 days (I live only 20 miles from the ship point which is
Berkeley, CA).




At 11:50 PM 12/21/01 , you wrote:
>I can't seem to find the post in the archives, but somebody at one point
>found a hand-pump hydraulic brake bleeding unit. It attached itself to the
>brake fluid bottle or something like that and pushed through with the fluid.
>It was an on-line deal that ran ~$50.

- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Gerhard     1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 13:08:57 -0500
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <DonnellM@ctc.com>
Subject: Team3S: SCCA

I have some questions for the 3si club members that frequent the SCCA.  I'm
thinking about going to some events but I'd like to know what I getting
myself into. 

First some background, I grew up in a muscle car fanatic family so I spent
many a Sunday at a NHRA sanctioned track but right now I actually want to
use that round ring thing that protrudes out of the dash.  Anyway, here is
my situation.  I have a 94' R/T TT with the following mods.

NO EGR valve
Custom exhaust - no cats, an upgraded Y down pipe and mufflers with what can
be best described as 3" sewer pipes sticking out the rear end.  
HKS boost controller - set to 1 bar
FKN air filter.
ENKEI RP01 wheels.  ~10 lbs./wheel less than stock chrome ones  :) :) :)

I think that puts me just over the 400 hp mark and I'm guessing it would run
low 13's in the ¼.

My questions are what class would I be in?  Who would I be running with
(read other vehicle makes).  How competitive could I be, IOW how do our
vehicles stack up?  And the general question about the safety equipment I
need, cost and basically anything else that would be good to know?

Michael Donnelly

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 13:48:51 -0500
From: Michael Pliska <mjpliska@prodigy.net>
Subject: Team3S: Valve Damage likely with 1 tooth slip?

Is it likely that I have any valve/piston damage after slipping 1 tooth
on the front exhaust cam of my 1991 VR4?  The car idled rough, and
seemed down on power (as I might expect).  I just drove it the 11 miles
home, keeping off the throttle & keeping rpm's down below 2000.  I am
debating whether to take the time to run a leakdown test, or just put
the new timing belt in (along with all the other recommended 120K mile
parts).

Thanks and regards,
Michael Pliska

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 16:37:11 -0500
From: Michael Pliska <mjpliska@prodigy.net>
Subject: Team3S: Retraction: Crank Pulley rotating?

Retracting previous request!
Now that I have the timing cover off, I see that it was the crank timing
gear that was 3 teeth advanced (crank pulley appears okay).  Has anyone
heard of this happening?  I would have expected the crank to have
slipped relative to the belt, and been after TDC when the remaining
parts of the valvetrain were at their "TDC" positions.  Both rear cams
and the front intake cam are all at their timing marks, the front
exhaust cam is 1 tooth back (before TDC), and the crank is 3 teeth BTDC.

Now it's back to a modified form of my other e-mail question: Should I
expect valve/piston damage from this condition?

Thanks and regards,
Michael

Michael Pliska wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a crank pulley, or good photos of one, that they could
> look at to confirm my suspicions?
>
> I am in the process of changing the timing belt in my 1991 VR4, and
> noticed that the timing mark (groove) on the crank pulley is at ~40°
> BTDC (estimating from the timing cover marks) when the cam marks are at
> their correct positions.  BTW, the front exhaust cam appears to be
> retarded by 1 tooth, which I assume (hope) is the only slippage (the car
> still ran, but idled rough and was down on power).  I am assuming that
> the outer ring (actual pulley portion) slipped on the crank pulley.
> With the crank outer pulley timing mark in its 40° position, the crank
> key is just past the 6:00 position, and the crank indexing pin (for the
> pulley) is just before 12:00 position.  I haven't gotten the idler
> pulleys & lower cover off yet, so I don't know the position of the mark
> on the crank timing pulley.
>
> Do these mark positions agree with yours?  Has anyone heard of the
> pulley slipping?  I would have assumed that there was some sort of
> load-bearing pin to prevent rotation, since the outer rings of the
> pulley must carry significant torque.
>
> Thanks and regards,
> Michael Pliska

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 17:12:01 -0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake bleeding

Thanks, that's what I was looking for

Let me know how it turns out...

    Alex.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Gerhard" <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
To: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@attbi.com>
Cc: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake bleeding


> I just purchased a universal power bleeder and have yet to try it out. The
> web site is...
>
> http://www.motiveproducts.com/index.htm
>
> Mine arrived in 2 days (I live only 20 miles from the ship point which is
> Berkeley, CA).
>
>
>
>
> At 11:50 PM 12/21/01 , you wrote:
> >I can't seem to find the post in the archives, but somebody at one point
> >found a hand-pump hydraulic brake bleeding unit. It attached itself to
the
> >brake fluid bottle or something like that and pushed through with the
fluid.
> >It was an on-line deal that ran ~$50.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> Michael A. Gerhard     1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White
>



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 20:50:27 EST
From: NETM1NDER@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Need info

I am thinking of geting these products for my 95 VR4 any comments would be
apreciated.

     1,  bbk fuel pump or aeromotive fuel pump with aeromotive fuel pressure
regulator.
      2,  injecters 520cc or 720 what kind?
      3,  TurboXs blow-off valves Type H racing 34mm or blitz?
      5, Addco anti-sway bars front & back.

      What do you think? Can I instal all this or do I need to do other
things first?

  My modes so far.
  K&N air filter, ATR 3" down pipe with Greddy 3"exhust.
  greddy profec B
  gutted pre cats
  high flow cat
  greddy turbo timer
  TEC PERFORMANCE STRUT TOWER BRACE
  greddy remote boost switch.
  eiback springs
  hosetecnique vacuum hoses
  optima battery

     Chris  95 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 01:53:08 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Braking With Reds

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff VanOrsdal <jeffv@1nce.com>
To: Team3s Tech List <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Thursday, October 25, 2001 10:09 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Braking With Reds


>The goals may be the same, but to suggest that the relevant TECHNIQUES bear
>anything more than passing similarities to automobile racing is just
>ridiculous.  Something tells me that Michael Schumacher wouldn't be able to
>do squat with a bike based solely on his experience with F1 cars. On the
>other hand, I'm willing to bet he would transition into a VR4 rather well.
>
>Jeff VanOrsdal
>1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
>jeffv@1nce.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
>Of Jannusch, Matt
>Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2001 12:01 PM
>To: 'Team3S'
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Braking With Reds
>
>
>> Bike racing is nothing close to car racing.
>
>It isn't?
>
>Using the tires' traction circle to maximum advantage as well as the
>available forces of acceleration and deceleration isn't the goal of car
>racing?  I guess I've been doing it wrong trying to get maximum performance
>from my car at all times on the track.
>
>???
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -------------------------------

Guess who started their driving career in motorcycle racing?

He competed in his first motorcycle race in 1979.

He said:

"I used to get a real high from riding the bike through the traffic
and I get the same sort of feeling when I am driving a race car."

 - Damon Hill   Formula One World Champion - 1996



- - tds  <catching up on list during holday vacation>



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 09:17:40 -0500
From: "Tom Terflinger" <terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Car wont start!

Hello all,
I recently purchased my 2nd 3KGT a black 92 VR4 which came packed full of
extra mods. I ran into a problem a few weeks after I bought the car it would
make a loud clunking noise after I backed up out of the driveway then put it
into 1st and took off, the car would stutter a little. At first I thought it
was the aftermarket springs going bad or something but one hard launch was
all it took and it felt like I just dropped the tranny out on the road! The
car was barely driveable after that so I turned to researching your archives
(I was able to find your site thanks to a link on Dave Blacks resource page)
the problem turned out to be a worn output shaft and spool in the transfer
case. Total cost for my repairs was under $700.00 instead of over $7,000.00
that I was quoted by a local shop. After finishing the repairs (I used
instructions from Jeff Lucius's website Clutch&Tranny AWD page) the car
started and drove fine! I drove the car around the block then on to the
local Sunoco to fill it up with 94 octane as I was almost out of gas. I shut
the car off at the station and started it up no problem and drove 1 mile to
my house. After I got home I let the car sit for 1-2hrs. then I came out to
move the car inside and noticed when I put the key in and turn it forward
the tempature gauge rockets up to redline and there is no oil pressure.
Suddenly I cant recall if this is normal or not (my hunch is no I cant
remember this behavior) so I check the oil etc. all seem fine. I did drain
the radiator while removing the tranny but we also refilled it and the
overflow. The next day the car still reads hot w/o even starting it and to
top it off the car refuses to start! I can hear the starter working and the
fuel relay inside the car, I think it is somehow related to the gauge
reading hot all of the sudden. Any advice is appreciated, I havent been able
to drive my car which I love for about 2 months now. I may have to submit
soon and have it towed somewhere for assistance.

Thanking you in advance!,
Tom Terflinger
92 Black VR4

_________________________________________________________________
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
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***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 10:32:31 -0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Racing seats + stock seatbelt?

I'm considering getting a pair of Corbeau Carrera seats for my car, but I'm
left wondering if I'm required to get a race harness at the same time.  I
can't see any way to retain the stock seatbelt system.  I've got no problems
buying a race belt system, but I wanted to possibly get a roll bar first.

Speaking of race harnesses, how does one mount the belts without a rollbar?
Does it just get bolted to some point on the chassis?  I'm not familiar
enough with belt lengths and mounting requirements to picture this in my
head.  If anyone has any information, or better yet, pictures of an install,
I'd love to see it.  Thanks.

Happy Holidays

Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 10:30:22 EST
From: NETM1NDER@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: TEC & Ground Control

Hi I just wanted to get back to you all about my strut tower brace & Grand
Control. My brace will fit with a little modification that you have to do. (
each GC is put on differently so I cannot do this myself without having the
car to do it).
   Click on this & you can see the mod you need to do. Any machine shop can
do this.      <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/p1pedream/fstrutbar.html">
P1pedreaMotorsports/CustomFrontStrutBar</A> 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 09:42:18 -0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S: Minimum Mods needed to safely run over 15lbs. boost?

Hi,

I currently have a 95VR4 with the following mods:

K&N FIPK, Apexi S-AVCR Boost Controller (set at 1.0 bar), Borla exhaust,
Greddy Type-S BOV, Autometer Boost Gauge, Autometer Air/Fuel Gauge
My question is what are the minimum modifications I need to run over 15lbs.
boost?  I had always thought you only need to upgrade the fuel pump,
injectors, add an AFC, and possibly upgrade the Y-pipe because it can pop
off above 15lbs.  Is that all I will need to run past 1.0 bar safely?
Any thoughts are appreciated.  TIA
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 09:54:14 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Minimum Mods needed to safely run over 15lbs. boost?

> Is that all I will need to run past 1.0 bar safely?

You can run over 1.0 bar safely if you use racing fuel, or 100 octane
unleaded.  Either that or you need something else to perform
knock/detonation control like water/alcohol injection or a fuel controller
and larger injectors to be able to use fuel to cool the cylinders.  Moving a
step colder on the spark plugs will help some too.

Since you have a '95 you might want to consider something like an MSD Knock
Alert so that you have a better idea how much knock you are getting.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #709
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