Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, December 27 2001
Volume 01 : Number
709
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 26 Dec 2001 10:47:27 -0500
From: "Stewart, Clay" <
cdstewar@UU.NET>
Subject: Team3S: Xmas
under a VR4
What we will not do for our children? I spent Christmas
day under my 21
year old son's 91' VR4 to determine if a dealer was correct
in that the
'transmission', transfer case and clutch had to be replaced at
$7,400. The
car, accelerating from a parking lot onto a side street came to a
stop with
a 'crack' noise. At that point the car would barely move
forward. My son
says he had heard a clicking noise that came and went a
few days before this
happened. Since the dealer used the term 'transmission'
for a transaxle, and
I knew the clutch was new . . . I didn't quite trust the
evaluation. (not
to mention they didn't even have the keys to start the
car during the
evaluation period.)
I pulled the Transfer case off
(many thanks to all of you with repair and
help WebPages) and found what I
hope to be the problem, but need advice!
First, there was only one or two
ounces at most of gear oil in the transfer
case. The splines on the drive
gear of the shaft coming from the Transaxle
that goes into the female entry
of the Transfer case's bevel gear assembly
are about 1/2 gone. The
female portion doesn't look so hot either . . .
looks like a few women I have
dated. I poured out about 4-5 five beer caps
of rusty looking filings
as well. The worm gear and drive gears turned
freely, and visually did
not see any burn or other problems. (tolerances
not measured
though). But they look good. I noticed that the transfer case
had
markings (writing) signifying a rebuild.
My questions are . . . if the
gear is stripped out enough to not drive the
transfer case (guessing), and
only the transaxle is going to try and drive
the front wheels, what will
happen? Will it be the result of what we are
experiencing, car could
barely move forward? Because the Viscous coupling
is confused where to
transfer power? Also, shouldn't there be a gasket or
seal for the cover
that holds the transfer case's bevel gear assembly?
There was nothing between
the surfaces. Best advice on where to get these
specific
gears?
While the car was up on blocks, and the transfer case completely
removed, I
started the car and it began switching gears just fine and running
the front
wheels with no noise or problems. Transaxle gear oil was
fine.
Lastly, I have 3-4 digital pictures close up of the drive gear and
female
gear, if anyone needs to see them, or perhaps keeping a collection for
a
webpage or historical reference. Will be glad to exchange the help
with
more digital pictures as the work continues on the car. I fully
expect I
will be pulling the transaxle in order to replace the transaxle's
drive
gear.
I know my email signature shows me as a 'most nerdy
computer guy', but
before this, I was a Navy Machinist, including all of
their schools. I sold
my soul to computers even though my hands loved
the cold grease and metal on
a crisp 20 degree day like yesterday.
Maybe this car will help me get a
little of my soul back? First time
working on this model car, see why you
guys like it. Now I have to get
me one.
Clay Stewart - "Software development for 26 years and
counting . . ."
Sr. Web Applications Developer
SBI, Inc. - Advanced
Internet Services
Supporting UUNET, a Worldcom Company
-
-------------------------------------->>>
Ashburn
Campus
F1-3-534
email:
c-clay.stewart@wcom.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 11:16:39
-0500
From: Michael Pliska <
mjpliska@prodigy.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Crank Pulley rotating?
Does anyone have a crank pulley, or good
photos of one, that they could
look at to confirm my suspicions?
I am
in the process of changing the timing belt in my 1991 VR4, and
noticed that
the timing mark (groove) on the crank pulley is at ~40°
BTDC (estimating from
the timing cover marks) when the cam marks are at
their correct
positions. BTW, the front exhaust cam appears to be
retarded by 1
tooth, which I assume (hope) is the only slippage (the car
still ran, but
idled rough and was down on power). I am assuming that
the outer ring
(actual pulley portion) slipped on the crank pulley.
With the crank outer
pulley timing mark in its 40° position, the crank
key is just past the 6:00
position, and the crank indexing pin (for the
pulley) is just before 12:00
position. I haven't gotten the idler
pulleys & lower cover off yet,
so I don't know the position of the mark
on the crank timing
pulley.
Do these mark positions agree with yours? Has anyone heard
of the
pulley slipping? I would have assumed that there was some sort
of
load-bearing pin to prevent rotation, since the outer rings of
the
pulley must carry significant torque.
Thanks and
regards,
Michael Pliska
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 09:58:22
-0800
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brake bleeding
I just purchased a universal power bleeder and
have yet to try it out. The
web site is...
http://www.motiveproducts.com/index.htmMine
arrived in 2 days (I live only 20 miles from the ship point which is
Berkeley, CA).
At 11:50 PM 12/21/01 , you wrote:
>I
can't seem to find the post in the archives, but somebody at one
point
>found a hand-pump hydraulic brake bleeding unit. It attached itself
to the
>brake fluid bottle or something like that and pushed through with
the fluid.
>It was an on-line deal that ran ~$50.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 13:08:57
-0500
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <
DonnellM@ctc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
SCCA
I have some questions for the 3si club members that frequent the
SCCA. I'm
thinking about going to some events but I'd like to know what
I getting
myself into.
First some background, I grew up in a
muscle car fanatic family so I spent
many a Sunday at a NHRA sanctioned track
but right now I actually want to
use that round ring thing that protrudes out
of the dash. Anyway, here is
my situation. I have a 94' R/T TT
with the following mods.
NO EGR valve
Custom exhaust - no cats, an
upgraded Y down pipe and mufflers with what can
be best described as 3" sewer
pipes sticking out the rear end.
HKS boost controller - set to 1
bar
FKN air filter.
ENKEI RP01 wheels. ~10 lbs./wheel less than
stock chrome ones :) :) :)
I think that puts me just over the 400
hp mark and I'm guessing it would run
low 13's in the ¼.
My questions
are what class would I be in? Who would I be running with
(read other
vehicle makes). How competitive could I be, IOW how do our
vehicles
stack up? And the general question about the safety equipment I
need,
cost and basically anything else that would be good to know?
Michael
Donnelly
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 13:48:51
-0500
From: Michael Pliska <
mjpliska@prodigy.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Valve Damage likely with 1 tooth slip?
Is it likely that I have
any valve/piston damage after slipping 1 tooth
on the front exhaust cam of my
1991 VR4? The car idled rough, and
seemed down on power (as I might
expect). I just drove it the 11 miles
home, keeping off the throttle
& keeping rpm's down below 2000. I am
debating whether to take the
time to run a leakdown test, or just put
the new timing belt in (along with
all the other recommended 120K mile
parts).
Thanks and
regards,
Michael Pliska
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 16:37:11
-0500
From: Michael Pliska <
mjpliska@prodigy.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Retraction: Crank Pulley rotating?
Retracting previous
request!
Now that I have the timing cover off, I see that it was the crank
timing
gear that was 3 teeth advanced (crank pulley appears okay). Has
anyone
heard of this happening? I would have expected the crank to
have
slipped relative to the belt, and been after TDC when the
remaining
parts of the valvetrain were at their "TDC" positions. Both
rear cams
and the front intake cam are all at their timing marks, the
front
exhaust cam is 1 tooth back (before TDC), and the crank is 3 teeth
BTDC.
Now it's back to a modified form of my other e-mail question:
Should I
expect valve/piston damage from this condition?
Thanks and
regards,
Michael
Michael Pliska wrote:
>
> Does anyone
have a crank pulley, or good photos of one, that they could
> look at to
confirm my suspicions?
>
> I am in the process of changing the
timing belt in my 1991 VR4, and
> noticed that the timing mark (groove) on
the crank pulley is at ~40°
> BTDC (estimating from the timing cover
marks) when the cam marks are at
> their correct positions. BTW, the
front exhaust cam appears to be
> retarded by 1 tooth, which I assume
(hope) is the only slippage (the car
> still ran, but idled rough and was
down on power). I am assuming that
> the outer ring (actual pulley
portion) slipped on the crank pulley.
> With the crank outer pulley timing
mark in its 40° position, the crank
> key is just past the 6:00 position,
and the crank indexing pin (for the
> pulley) is just before 12:00
position. I haven't gotten the idler
> pulleys & lower cover off
yet, so I don't know the position of the mark
> on the crank timing
pulley.
>
> Do these mark positions agree with yours? Has
anyone heard of the
> pulley slipping? I would have assumed that
there was some sort of
> load-bearing pin to prevent rotation, since the
outer rings of the
> pulley must carry significant torque.
>
> Thanks and regards,
> Michael Pliska
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 17:12:01
-0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brake bleeding
Thanks, that's what I was looking for
Let
me know how it turns out...
Alex.
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Michael Gerhard" <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
To: "Alex Pedenko"
<
apedenko@attbi.com>
Cc: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, December 26, 2001 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake
bleeding
> I just purchased a universal power bleeder and have yet
to try it out. The
> web site is...
>
>
http://www.motiveproducts.com/index.htm>
>
Mine arrived in 2 days (I live only 20 miles from the ship point which
is
> Berkeley, CA).
>
>
>
>
> At 11:50 PM
12/21/01 , you wrote:
> >I can't seem to find the post in the archives,
but somebody at one point
> >found a hand-pump hydraulic brake bleeding
unit. It attached itself to
the
> >brake fluid bottle or something
like that and pushed through with the
fluid.
> >It was an on-line
deal that ran ~$50.
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------
> Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 20:50:27
EST
From:
NETM1NDER@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Need
info
I am thinking of geting these products for my 95 VR4 any comments
would be
apreciated.
1, bbk fuel pump
or aeromotive fuel pump with aeromotive fuel pressure
regulator.
2, injecters 520cc or 720
what kind?
3, TurboXs blow-off valves
Type H racing 34mm or blitz?
5, Addco
anti-sway bars front & back.
What do
you think? Can I instal all this or do I need to do other
things
first?
My modes so far.
K&N air filter, ATR 3" down
pipe with Greddy 3"exhust.
greddy profec B
gutted pre cats
high flow cat
greddy turbo timer
TEC PERFORMANCE
STRUT TOWER BRACE
greddy remote boost switch.
eiback
springs
hosetecnique vacuum hoses
optima
battery
Chris 95 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 01:53:08
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Braking With Reds
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff VanOrsdal
<
jeffv@1nce.com>
To: Team3s Tech
List <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, October 25, 2001 10:09 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Braking With
Reds
>The goals may be the same, but to suggest that the relevant
TECHNIQUES bear
>anything more than passing similarities to automobile
racing is just
>ridiculous. Something tells me that Michael
Schumacher wouldn't be able to
>do squat with a bike based solely on his
experience with F1 cars. On the
>other hand, I'm willing to bet he would
transition into a VR4 rather well.
>
>Jeff VanOrsdal
>1991
Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
>jeffv@1nce.com
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
>Of Jannusch, Matt
>Sent:
Thursday, October 25, 2001 12:01 PM
>To: 'Team3S'
>Subject: RE:
Team3S: Braking With Reds
>
>
>> Bike racing is nothing
close to car racing.
>
>It isn't?
>
>Using the tires'
traction circle to maximum advantage as well as the
>available forces of
acceleration and deceleration isn't the goal of car
>racing? I guess
I've been doing it wrong trying to get maximum performance
>from my car at
all times on the track.
>
>???
>
>-Matt
>'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
>
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-------------------------------
Guess who started their driving career in
motorcycle racing?
He competed in his first motorcycle race in
1979.
He said:
"I used to get a real high from riding the bike
through the traffic
and I get the same sort of feeling when I am driving a
race car."
- Damon Hill Formula One World Champion -
1996
- - tds <catching up on list during holday
vacation>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 09:17:40
-0500
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Car wont start!
Hello all,
I recently purchased my 2nd 3KGT a
black 92 VR4 which came packed full of
extra mods. I ran into a problem a
few weeks after I bought the car it would
make a loud clunking noise after I
backed up out of the driveway then put it
into 1st and took off, the car
would stutter a little. At first I thought it
was the aftermarket springs
going bad or something but one hard launch was
all it took and it felt like
I just dropped the tranny out on the road! The
car was barely driveable
after that so I turned to researching your archives
(I was able to find your
site thanks to a link on Dave Blacks resource page)
the problem turned out
to be a worn output shaft and spool in the transfer
case. Total cost for my
repairs was under $700.00 instead of over $7,000.00
that I was quoted by a
local shop. After finishing the repairs (I used
instructions from Jeff
Lucius's website Clutch&Tranny AWD page) the car
started and drove fine!
I drove the car around the block then on to the
local Sunoco to fill it up
with 94 octane as I was almost out of gas. I shut
the car off at the station
and started it up no problem and drove 1 mile to
my house. After I got home
I let the car sit for 1-2hrs. then I came out to
move the car inside and
noticed when I put the key in and turn it forward
the tempature gauge
rockets up to redline and there is no oil pressure.
Suddenly I cant recall
if this is normal or not (my hunch is no I cant
remember this behavior) so I
check the oil etc. all seem fine. I did drain
the radiator while removing
the tranny but we also refilled it and the
overflow. The next day the car
still reads hot w/o even starting it and to
top it off the car refuses to
start! I can hear the starter working and the
fuel relay inside the car, I
think it is somehow related to the gauge
reading hot all of the sudden. Any
advice is appreciated, I havent been able
to drive my car which I love for
about 2 months now. I may have to submit
soon and have it towed somewhere
for assistance.
Thanking you in advance!,
Tom Terflinger
92 Black
VR4
_________________________________________________________________
Join
the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 10:32:31
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Racing
seats + stock seatbelt?
I'm considering getting a pair of Corbeau Carrera
seats for my car, but I'm
left wondering if I'm required to get a race
harness at the same time. I
can't see any way to retain the stock
seatbelt system. I've got no problems
buying a race belt system, but I
wanted to possibly get a roll bar first.
Speaking of race harnesses, how
does one mount the belts without a rollbar?
Does it just get bolted to some
point on the chassis? I'm not familiar
enough with belt lengths and
mounting requirements to picture this in my
head. If anyone has any
information, or better yet, pictures of an install,
I'd love to see it.
Thanks.
Happy Holidays
Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin
Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 10:30:22
EST
From:
NETM1NDER@aol.comSubject: Team3S: TEC
& Ground Control
Hi I just wanted to get back to you all about my
strut tower brace & Grand
Control. My brace will fit with a little
modification that you have to do. (
each GC is put on differently so I
cannot do this myself without having the
car to do it).
Click on this & you can see the mod you need to do. Any machine shop can
do this. <A HREF="
http://www.geocities.com/p1pedream/fstrutbar.html">
P1pedreaMotorsports/CustomFrontStrutBar</A>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 09:42:18
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Minimum Mods needed to safely run over 15lbs. boost?
Hi,
I
currently have a 95VR4 with the following mods:
K&N FIPK, Apexi
S-AVCR Boost Controller (set at 1.0 bar), Borla exhaust,
Greddy Type-S BOV,
Autometer Boost Gauge, Autometer Air/Fuel Gauge
My question is what are the
minimum modifications I need to run over 15lbs.
boost? I had always
thought you only need to upgrade the fuel pump,
injectors, add an AFC, and
possibly upgrade the Y-pipe because it can pop
off above 15lbs. Is that
all I will need to run past 1.0 bar safely?
Any thoughts are
appreciated. TIA
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 09:54:14
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Minimum Mods needed to safely run over 15lbs. boost?
> Is
that all I will need to run past 1.0 bar safely?
You can run over 1.0 bar
safely if you use racing fuel, or 100 octane
unleaded. Either that or
you need something else to perform
knock/detonation control like
water/alcohol injection or a fuel controller
and larger injectors to be able
to use fuel to cool the cylinders. Moving a
step colder on the spark
plugs will help some too.
Since you have a '95 you might want to consider
something like an MSD Knock
Alert so that you have a better idea how much
knock you are getting.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#709
***************************************