Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, December 20 2001
Volume 01 : Number
704
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 Dec 2001 10:52:52 -0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: team3s:Heel /Toe shifting
But does it matter which side does
which? I've tried it a couple of times
and it just seems more comfortable and
natural (at least with our pedals) to
do it the other way( ball on gas and
heel on brake).
What's the difference?
Alex.
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'ARMIN MEIER'" <
guetch@shaw.ca>;
"STEALTH" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, December 19, 2001 9:25 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: team3s:Heel
/Toe shifting
> Armin,
>
> That explanation is
wrong. Classic heel-toe was done with the "toe",
> actually ball of
the foot, doing the braking and the heel doing the gas.
> Nowadays,
heel-toe is really more like "side of the foot/ball of the foot"
> with
the ball of the foot under the Great Toe doing the braking on
the
right
> side of the brake pedal and the right side of the foot
rolled over to the
> right to push the gas pedal.
>
> Chuck
Willis
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: ARMIN
MEIER [SMTP:guetch@shaw.ca]
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 6:47
PM
> > To: STEALTH
> > Subject: Team3S: Re: team3s:Heel /Toe
shifting
> >
> > Jeff,
> >
> > Seems to me
you should use the toe to push the gas pedal and use the
heel
> >
to
> > do the breaking. This works great for a gas boost in neutral
while own
> > down
> > shifting.
> >
> >
Armin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 10:54:21
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
I love my Blitz DSBC!
A waste of money by no means. Here in Minnesota I've
had to adjust the
amount of boost 3 or 4 times this winter to compensate for
the weather.
When the weather gets cold over boosting becomes a problem,
and standing out
in the cold messing with a manual boost controller isn't
something I care to
do. Especially when I can just reach over and turn the
boost down as
easy as turning down the volume of a radio. Worth every penny
to
me.
Christopher
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin
Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
To: "Pete"
<
pbozanich@hotmail.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, December 18, 2001 3:10 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost
Controllers
> I do not have an opinion on the Boost Controllers
besides to say, have you
> looked at a good manual boost controller?
I hate to see someone throw
good
> money out the window for something
they don't need.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 11:01:10
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: team3s:Heel /Toe shifting
I would be more concerned about
the heel of my foot slipping off the brake,
plus most of us have better
sensation in the ball of the foot than the heel
or side of the foot,
maintaining and controlling the pressure on the brake
pedal is more important
than "blipping" the throttle.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Alex Pedenko [SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, December 19, 2001 10:53 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.; 'ARMIN
MEIER'; STEALTH
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: team3s:Heel /Toe
shifting
>
> But does it matter which side does which? I've tried
it a couple of times
> and it just seems more comfortable and natural (at
least with our pedals)
> to
> do it the other way( ball on gas and
heel on brake).
>
> What's the difference?
>
>
Alex.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Willis, Charles E."
<
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
To: "'ARMIN MEIER'" <
guetch@shaw.ca>;
"STEALTH" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 9:25 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Re:
team3s:Heel /Toe shifting
>
> > Armin,
> >
> >
That explanation is wrong. Classic heel-toe was done with the
"toe",
> > actually ball of the foot, doing the braking and the heel
doing the gas.
> > Nowadays, heel-toe is really more like "side of the
foot/ball of the
> foot"
> > with the ball of the foot under the
Great Toe doing the braking on the
> right
> > side of the brake
pedal and the right side of the foot rolled over to
> the
> >
right to push the gas pedal.
> >
> > Chuck Willis
>
>
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: ARMIN
MEIER [SMTP:guetch@shaw.ca]
> > > Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001
6:47 PM
> > > To: STEALTH
> > > Subject: Team3S: Re:
team3s:Heel /Toe shifting
> > >
> > > Jeff,
> >
>
> > > Seems to me you should use the toe to push the gas pedal
and use the
> heel
> > > to
> > > do the breaking.
This works great for a gas boost in neutral while own
> > >
down
> > > shifting.
> > >
> > >
Armin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 11:10:34
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
> I love my Blitz
DSBC! A waste of money by no means. Here in
> Minnesota I've
had to adjust the amount of boost 3 or 4 times
> this winter to
compensate for the weather.
A good boost controller shouldn't require
adjustments to compensate for
weather changes. You should be able to
set it for a target boost level and
it should stay there. Wandering
boost levels shouldn't be acceptable in an
electronic boost
controller.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 11:13:01
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine hestitating
what code is generating the check engine
light?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kraig Delaney
[SMTP:stealthmode91@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 4:40
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Engine hestitating
>
> Car is a 1991 Stealth DOHC
RT with 44k Miles on it. Car was hestitating
> on acceleration and
if you put the heat on, it would seem that the motor
> would bog. We
replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil pack and
> have the
power transitor on order. This car doesn't have a EGR valve,
>
should we change the oxygen sensor. Any help would be appreciated.
>
> PS The engine check light stays on.
>
>
Thanks
>
> Kraig Delaney
> 1991 Stealth DOHC
RT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 13:04:30
-0500
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
With a manual boost controller
you wouldn't have to stand anywhere to
adjust it :-) Once it's set,
it's set no matter what the weather. 14psi is
14 psi no matter what the
temperature or humidity. What does change is the
rate at which
boost builds and that is why you have to adjust the gain on an
EBC when the
weather changes. I had a Blitz SSBC and was always adjusting
when the
weather changed. Do you see why I said a waste of money? You
have
not gained anything, except another fancy gadget and a lighter wallet
:-)
Take care,
Kevin Schappell
http://kevin.schappell.comSave money
on all of your speed parts.
http://www.SpeedShoppers.com
When the weather gets cold over boosting becomes a problem,
> and standing
out in the cold messing with a manual boost controller isn't
> something I
care to do. Especially when I can just reach over
> and turn
the
> boost down as easy as turning down the volume of a radio.
Worth
> every penny
> to me.
> Christopher
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 13:23:05
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
Hey Kevin, how long have you
been using you MBC for? I had a hallman on my
MKIV and while I did not
have to adjust it that often I did have to adjust
in the early summer and
early winter. Summer was ok its warm, in the winter
I was cussing my
cheap ass self for buying it. my .02
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Kevin Schappell [SMTP:kevin@schappell.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 1:05 PM
> To: Christopher Deutsch;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
>
> With a
manual boost controller you wouldn't have to stand anywhere
> to
>
adjust it :-) Once it's set, it's set no matter what the weather.
14psi
> is
> 14 psi no matter what the temperature or
humidity. What does change is
> the
> rate at which
boost builds and that is why you have to adjust the gain on
> an
>
EBC when the weather changes. I had a Blitz SSBC and was always
adjusting
> when the weather changed. Do you see why I said a waste
of money? You
> have
> not gained anything, except another
fancy gadget and a lighter wallet :-)
>
> Take care,
>
> Kevin Schappell
>
http://kevin.schappell.com> Save
money on all of your speed parts.
>
http://www.SpeedShoppers.com>
> When the weather gets cold over boosting becomes a
problem,
> > and standing out in the cold messing with a manual boost
controller
> isn't
> > something I care to do. Especially
when I can just reach over
> > and turn the
> > boost down as
easy as turning down the volume of a radio. Worth
> > every
penny
> > to me.
> > Christopher
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 12:14:01
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: heel/toe shifting. Is the pedal layout poor or is it me?
I
was going to measure pedal heights, but forgot. It feels like my brake is
1 or 2 inches above my gas pedal. When I step on both brake and gas flat, the
brake is coming on, but not hard, by the time I can feel the gas pedal.
That is flat footed and straight up and down.
My foot is an 11 or 11 1/2
size.
When I heel and toe, I put most of the ball of my foot on the
brake, and angle my heel towards the gas pedal, then use a twist to flick the
gas pedal vs heel pressure. I usually try to do this almost immediately
when getting on the brake. Unless it is a long braking zone, I do not try to
exactly match the rpm, but only partly, so the downshift does a lot of the
braking.
I wear tennis shoes at the track, but practice in any shoe just
driving on the street. My racing seat is intentionally just a bit closer
than normal driving, maybe 1/2 to 1 inch, to give a little extra manuevering
ability, and definite 'to the floor' capability if required.
I hit the
clutch once for 4th to 3rd, and one half and once 3rd to 2nd when I remember. If
I forget to double clutch 3rd to 2nd, the car usually reminds me at least once
in the weekend during a hard run or if its hot
out.
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: ARMIN MEIER [mailto:guetch@shaw.ca]
Sent: Tuesday,
December 18, 2001 4:55 PM
To: STEALTH
Subject: FW: Team3S: heel/toe
shifting. Is the pedal layout poor or is
it me?
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jeff VanOrsdal
Sent: Tuesday,
December 18, 2001 9:39 AM
To: Team3s Tech List
Subject: Team3S: heel/toe
shifting. Is the pedal layout poor or is it
me?
Maybe this is
technical, maybe it isn't. But I'll try anyway. Lately, I've
been
trying to get the hang of heel toe shifting when I'm slowing down or
coming
up on corners. I'm mainly just trying to smooth things out and find
a
good position for my foot right now. But it just doesn't seem
possible.
My gas pedal is very low compared to my clutch and brake, and even
with the
brake all the way in I still have a hard time getting my heel onto
the gas
pedal. I have some generic metal pedal covers with seem to help
a little,
but it's still a pain. I don't have unusually large feet (size 10
sneakers),
so what's the deal? Is it me? Can my gas pedal be
adjusted? Or is the
pedal layout on our cars just poor to begin
with? Any input would be
appreciated.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991
Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 13:49:32
-0500
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
I've had mine for about a year,
so I have gone from Winter - Summer, and
Summer to winter (almost, it's been
warm around PA lately.) I have been
watching on the colder days (around
38 degrees F) and it holds boost to
where I set it. This very question
came up on the 3SI board and 3 or 4
people responded that their MBC does not
drift with weather. I do not
remember anyone responding that their MBC
drifted with weather. What you
may see is a little more boost spike in
1st gear when the weather gets
colder but that is no reason (for me) to
adjust. I have not seen knock in
1st gear from a 1 or 2 psi spike so I
leave it alone. I tuned my MBC
initially in 3rd gear to 14 psi.
No knock and only slight overboost in 1st
gear.
Kevin Schappell
http://kevin.schappell.comSave money
on all of your speed parts.
http://www.SpeedShoppers.com>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 1:23
PM
> To: 'Kevin Schappell'
> Cc: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
>
>
> Hey Kevin, how
long have you been using you MBC for? I had a
> hallman on
my
> MKIV and while I did not have to adjust it that often I did have to
adjust
> in the early summer and early winter. Summer was ok its
warm, in
> the winter
> I was cussing my cheap ass self for buying
it. my .02
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
From: Kevin Schappell [SMTP:kevin@schappell.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday,
December 19, 2001 1:05 PM
> > To: Christopher Deutsch;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
> >
> >
With a manual boost controller you wouldn't have to stand anywhere
> >
to
> > adjust it :-) Once it's set, it's set no matter what
the
> weather. 14psi
> > is
> > 14 psi no matter
what the temperature or humidity. What does change is
> >
the
> > rate at which boost builds and that is why you have to
adjust
> the gain on
> > an
> > EBC when the weather
changes. I had a Blitz SSBC and was
> always adjusting
> >
when the weather changed. Do you see why I said a waste of money?
You
> > have
> > not gained anything, except another fancy
gadget and a lighter
> wallet :-)
> >
> > Take
care,
> >
> > Kevin Schappell
> >
http://kevin.schappell.com>
>
> > When the weather gets cold over boosting
becomes a problem,
> > > and standing out in the cold messing with a
manual boost controller
> > isn't
> > > something I care to
do. Especially when I can just reach over
> > > and turn
the
> > > boost down as easy as turning down the volume of a radio.
Worth
> > > every penny
> > > to me.
> > >
Christopher
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 13:08:38
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: heel/toe shifting. Is the pedal layout poor or is it
me?
thin soled shoes like "boat shoes" will give you a better feel of
the
pedals. Driving shoes are almost like slippers and are really worth
buying
at a certain point.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Zobel, Kurt [SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, December 19, 2001 11:14 AM
> To: ARMIN MEIER; STEALTH
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: heel/toe shifting. Is the pedal layout poor or
> is
it me?
>
> I was going to measure pedal heights, but
forgot. It feels like my brake
> is 1 or 2 inches above my gas
pedal. When I step on both brake and gas
> flat, the brake is coming on,
but not hard, by the time I can feel the gas
> pedal. That is flat
footed and straight up and down.
> My foot is an 11 or 11 1/2
size.
>
> When I heel and toe, I put most of the ball of my foot on
the brake, and
> angle my heel towards the gas pedal, then use a twist to
flick the gas
> pedal vs heel pressure. I usually try to do this
almost immediately when
> getting on the brake. Unless it is a long
braking zone, I do not try to
> exactly match the rpm, but only partly, so
the downshift does a lot of the
> braking.
>
> I wear tennis
shoes at the track, but practice in any shoe just driving on
> the
street. My racing seat is intentionally just a bit closer than
normal
> driving, maybe 1/2 to 1 inch, to give a little extra manuevering
ability,
> and definite 'to the floor' capability if required.
>
> I hit the clutch once for 4th to 3rd, and one half and once 3rd to
2nd
> when I remember. If I forget to double clutch 3rd to 2nd, the car
usually
> reminds me at least once in the weekend during a hard run or if
its hot
> out.
>
> Kurt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ARMIN MEIER
[mailto:guetch@shaw.ca]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 4:55 PM
>
To: STEALTH
> Subject: FW: Team3S: heel/toe shifting. Is the pedal layout
poor or is
> it me?
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Jeff VanOrsdal
>
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 9:39 AM
> To: Team3s Tech List
>
Subject: Team3S: heel/toe shifting. Is the pedal layout poor or is it
>
me?
>
>
> Maybe this is technical, maybe it isn't. But
I'll try anyway. Lately,
> I've
> been trying to get the hang
of heel toe shifting when I'm slowing down or
> coming up on
corners. I'm mainly just trying to smooth things out and
>
find
> a good position for my foot right now. But it just doesn't
seem possible.
> My gas pedal is very low compared to my clutch and brake,
and even with
> the
> brake all the way in I still have a hard time
getting my heel onto the gas
> pedal. I have some generic metal
pedal covers with seem to help a little,
> but it's still a pain. I don't
have unusually large feet (size 10
> sneakers),
> so what's the
deal? Is it me? Can my gas pedal be adjusted? Or is
the
> pedal layout on our cars just poor to begin with? Any input
would be
> appreciated.
>
> Jeff VanOrsdal
> 1991
Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
>
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 14:28:26
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: heel/toe shifting. Is the pedal layout poor or is it me?
The
heights of the pedals does not matter. As the weekend wears on at
a
track event the brake pedal starts to go down farther and farther or
if
you adjust the pedals then they are very tight and don't move much.
I
say you get used to working your feet to fit the situation whether it
is
size 13 boat shoes or size 7 racing shoes. I know two people with
those
size feet and they can heel-and-toe just marvelously so I don't
think
pedal height has anything to do with it (at least not so much that
it
should stop you from doing it correctly).
Granted the heel-and-toe
pedal covers they sell make the pedals closer
together but sometimes this is
not necessary.
Just remember that you need to concentrate more on
braking, usually,
when approaching a turn so until you get comfortable with
braking late
then don't try this trick on the track when you are approaching
a
90-degree turn at 120 mph. Bad things happen when you are still
going
90 mph instead of 60 mph and try to turn.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
Heel-and-toe and left-foot-braking extraordinaire <grin>
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Zobel, Kurt
Sent: Wednesday, December 19,
2001 12:14
I was going to measure pedal heights, but forgot.
It feels like my
brake is 1 or 2 inches above my gas pedal. When I step on
both brake and
gas flat, the brake is coming on, but not hard, by the time I
can feel
the gas pedal. That is flat footed and straight up and down.
My foot is an 11 or 11 1/2 size.
When I heel and toe, I put most of
the ball of my foot on the brake, and
angle my heel towards the gas pedal,
then use a twist to flick the gas
pedal vs heel pressure. I usually try
to do this almost immediately
when getting on the brake. Unless it is a long
braking zone, I do not
try to exactly match the rpm, but only partly, so the
downshift does a
lot of the braking.
I wear tennis shoes at the
track, but practice in any shoe just driving
on the street. My racing
seat is intentionally just a bit closer than
normal driving, maybe 1/2 to 1
inch, to give a little extra manuevering
ability, and definite 'to the floor'
capability if required.
I hit the clutch once for 4th to 3rd, and one
half and once 3rd to 2nd
when I remember. If I forget to double clutch 3rd to
2nd, the car
usually reminds me at least once in the weekend during a hard
run or if
its hot out.
Kurt
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 19 Dec 2001 11:53:24
-0800
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Which Helmet Do you prefer?
I am getting a Helmet very soon for
Autocrossing, drag racing and occasional road racing at Gingerman track in
Michigan. Thanks for everyones feedback in what rating of helmet to
get. That decision was easy, I know to to pick and actuall helmet.
I was planning on getting a Snell SA2000 rated helmet with a face shield
(in case I go Karting too.)
My question is for people who have helmets,
any particular helmets that are good or bad for: fit, feel, weight or
vetilation? I once borrowed a cheap helmet that fogged up almosty
instantly and I want to avoid problems like this.
The one I am currently
leaning towards is a BELL M2 SA2000 $299 See link Below for picture, price and
details.
http://www.racerwholesale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RW&Product_Code=MAT2301&Category_Code=Racing+HelmetsAnyone
here actually use this helmet? any good or bad experiences with other
helmets?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 13:54:03
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
Ok, I can agree with Matt's
argument. While we're on the subject do you
happen to know which EBC(s)
will do that?
But Kevin, tell me who makes a manual boost controller I
don't have to
adjust when driving in a climate where the temperature ranges
from -20 to
100+ Fahrenheit. I'd love to find a device that will save
me so much time
and money. Also, does it self adjust when I put in race
gas? How about
when I let my younger sister drive it?
;)
Christopher
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin
Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
To:
"Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, December 19, 2001 12:04 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Down Pipes and
Boost Controllers
> With a manual boost controller you wouldn't have
to stand anywhere to
> adjust it :-) Once it's set, it's set no
matter what the weather. 14psi
is
> 14 psi no matter what the
temperature or humidity. What does change is
the
> rate at
which boost builds and that is why you have to adjust the gain on
an
>
EBC when the weather changes. I had a Blitz SSBC and was always
adjusting
> when the weather changed. Do you see why I said a waste
of money? You
have
> not gained anything, except another fancy
gadget and a lighter wallet :-)
>
> Take
care,
>
>
> A good boost controller shouldn't require
adjustments to compensate for
> weather changes. You should be able
to set it for a target boost level
and
> it should stay there.
Wandering boost levels shouldn't be acceptable in
an
> electronic boost
controller.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 14:59:10
-0500
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Altered Atmosphere
Im about to get some mods from Altered Atmosphere in
Maryland and was
wondering if anyone had any comments on the
shop?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 14:21:02
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
> Ok, I can agree with
Matt's argument. While we're on the
> subject do you happen to know
which EBC(s) will do that?
The HKS EVC IV does. Any controller
where you set an actual pressure target
level and has fuzzy logic should
auto-adjust for climate changes. The EVC
IV "ATM" is supposed to
compensate for altitude changes and/or barometric
pressure changes - but
there aren't any big mountains anywhere near me, so
that feature isn't a big
deal to me. The ones that use gain/load/etc
usually don't auto adjust
for conditions at all and require more tweaking on
the part of the
owner.
The Super AVC-R uses target pressures, but I usually hear about
people
needing to play with them a lot to get the right boost levels.
I'm not sure
if that's because the learning mode didn't work right or
whatever... It
seems like it should be a really good unit.
>
Also, does it self adjust when I put in race gas?
On my EVC IV I just
tell it to adjust to 1.5 kg/cm2 and it does. :-)
> How
about when I let my younger sister drive it? ;)
You let other people
drive your car? Brave man...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 15:21:06
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Which Helmet Do you prefer?
Glad to see someone else getting to
the track. I believe the Bell M2
has a larger eyeport for those who
wear eyeglasses or wear sunglasses
when under the helmet. If not then
Bell has one like that and the
number "2" means the larger
eyeport.
The face shield is never mandated to be down in road events in a
closed
cockpit car (at least not in our region) so you never have it down
so
fogging is never an issue. You also have to communicate with
an
instructor and a closed face shield makes this more
difficult.
AutoX events let you wear open face helmets like NASCAR and
Rally
drivers. Road events almost always mandate a full face helmet
for
obvious reasons. The non-Driving Event events (NASA, other HDPE
events,
etc.) allow any helmet as long as it is approved (just no
motorcycle
helmets usually).
I use the Bell Sport II and like it very
much. Those little holes on
the top for air ventilation never work so
don't look for that as a
feature. Some face shields have an anchor
point for tearoffs (like the
MotoX guys have) but in a closed cockpit car you
should not have to use
these. Sometimes the face shield is removed
completely but I tend to
like it there so when I go off road and into gravel
I can close the face
shield (if I remember to) and get less gravel in my
face.
I would say to get the newest helmet available and the best you
can
afford. There is no sense spending $2k on turbos but getting
the
cheapest $200 helmet you can find. In a wreck if the $200 helmet
won't
save your grape then you won't be able to use the turbos as you will
not
survive. Some of the mid-range helmets ($300-$600) have a
good
impact-absorbing rating called the "scrambled egg" factor. An egg
can
go 80 mph but hit a sponge and stop so fast that the insides
scramble.
That is your brain. If it stops so fast without sufficient
padding then
you scramble your brain, etc. Increase either the distance
traveled or
the time of the crash to reduce the force of it.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 set up for road racing and the daily driver
Bell Sport
II helmet, full face with face shield
- -----Original
Message-----
From: John Monnin
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001
14:53
I am getting a Helmet very soon for Autocrossing, drag racing
and
occasional road racing at Gingerman track in Michigan. Thanks
for
everyones feedback in what rating of helmet to get. That decision
was
easy, I know to to pick and actuall helmet.
I was planning on
getting a Snell SA2000 rated helmet with a face shield
(in case I go Karting
too.)
My question is for people who have helmets, any particular helmets
that
are good or bad for: fit, feel, weight or vetilation? I once
borrowed a
cheap helmet that fogged up almosty instantly and I want to
avoid
problems like this.
The one I am currently leaning towards is a
BELL M2 SA2000 $299 See link
Below for picture, price and details.
http://www.racerwholesale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RW&Product_Code=MAT2301&Category_Code=Racing+Helmets
Anyone
here actually use this helmet? any good or bad experiences with
other
helmets?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 15:21:06
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Altered Atmosphere
They have an AWD dyno. Nuf
said.
I stopped there on the way to the East Coast Gathering last year
and
liked their setup. They had about four lifts with a VR-4 on each
one,
an R/T TT in front of another one, a right-hand drive Jap car, and
about
a 9-second older Supra. Nice place. Good work on their
custom exhaust
system, some machining of the spark plug plate cover,
etc.
One friend had a good bit of work done and only a few things
to
tweak/tune on it.
Their dyno was just fun to watch. Not many
people have one of those in
the states.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Payne, Scott
Sent:
Wednesday, December 19, 2001 14:59
Im about to get some mods from
Altered Atmosphere in Maryland and was
wondering if anyone had any comments
on the shop?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 15:24:24
-0500
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Altered Atmosphere
Well I signed up for 2 dyno runs, before and
after, so I'm pretty excited.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 19,
2001 3:21 PM
To: 'Team3S (E-mail)'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Altered
Atmosphere
They have an AWD dyno. Nuf said.
I stopped
there on the way to the East Coast Gathering last year and
liked their
setup. They had about four lifts with a VR-4 on each one,
an R/T TT in
front of another one, a right-hand drive Jap car, and about
a 9-second older
Supra. Nice place. Good work on their custom exhaust
system, some
machining of the spark plug plate cover, etc.
One friend had a good bit
of work done and only a few things to
tweak/tune on it.
Their dyno was
just fun to watch. Not many people have one of those in
the
states.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Payne, Scott
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001
14:59
Im about to get some mods from Altered Atmosphere in Maryland
and was
wondering if anyone had any comments on the shop?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 15:22:59
-0500
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
You let other people drive your
car????? Just kidding. You have a point
about being able to
change boost levels at the track but it only takes 5
minutes to adjust the
boost level with a MBC. This includes a little run to
verify the
setting and to readjust. I usually up my boost before I go to
the track
and just take it easy while driving there and putting in race
fuel.
What is your time worth? I spent a whole $8 on my MBC, most EBC
run
min. of $300. So $292 difference. My time is worth $60/hour
so that's 4.87
hours I can spend adjusting my MBC before I should have bought
an EBC. 4.87
hours is about 58 5 minutes adjustments. How many
people make 58 trips to
the dragstrip in a year or even two?
Wanna see some more money saved? How
about the time difference on
installation? Took me about 2 hours to do my
EBC, 15 minutes for the
MBC.
Kevin Schappell
http://kevin.schappell.com>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Christopher Deutsch
>
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 2:54 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
>
>
>
Ok, I can agree with Matt's argument. While we're on the subject do
you
> happen to know which EBC(s) will do that?
>
> But Kevin,
tell me who makes a manual boost controller I don't have to
> adjust when
driving in a climate where the temperature ranges from -20 to
> 100+
Fahrenheit. I'd love to find a device that will save me so much
time
> and money. Also, does it self adjust when I put in race
gas? How about
> when I let my younger sister drive it?
;)
>
> Christopher
>
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
> To:
"Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>;
>
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 12:04 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Down
Pipes and Boost Controllers
>
>
> > With a manual boost
controller you wouldn't have to stand anywhere to
> > adjust it
:-) Once it's set, it's set no matter what the
> weather.
14psi
> is
> > 14 psi no matter what the temperature or
humidity. What does change is
> the
> > rate at which
boost builds and that is why you have to adjust
> the gain on
>
an
> > EBC when the weather changes. I had a Blitz SSBC and
was
> always adjusting
> > when the weather changed. Do you
see why I said a waste of money? You
> have
> > not gained
anything, except another fancy gadget and a lighter
> wallet :-)
>
>
> > Take care,
> >
> >
> >
> >
A good boost controller shouldn't require adjustments to compensate for
>
> weather changes. You should be able to set it for a target boost
level
> and
> > it should stay there. Wandering boost
levels shouldn't be acceptable in
> an
> > electronic boost
controller.
> >
> > -Matt
> > '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 15:40:49
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Which Helmet Do you prefer?
I always buy helmets in stores and
never online, unless I have already
tried them in a store. Fit is very
important to me. Ventilation is
important too, but on a street helmet you
could always lift the shield 1/2"
to get more air in.
Last time I
bought a HJC CL-12 helmet. I forgot the price but it was one of
the most
inexpensive helmets, DOT and Snell approved. That helmet was one
of the few
which actually was holding my whole head evenly. Most of them
rest only on
top of my head clamping my brains and leaving too much room
for ears and
cheeks. It also had some extra ventilation ducts. The size was
a little on
the small side, so I asked for XXL, even though my usual size
is XL. I liked
Arai as well but it was about $400 and I do not use street
helmets that
often.
Philip
At 01:53 PM 12/19/01, John Monnin wrote:
>I am
getting a Helmet very soon for Autocrossing, drag racing and
>occasional
road racing at Gingerman track in Michigan. Thanks for
>everyones
feedback in what rating of helmet to get. That decision was
>easy,
I know to to pick and actuall helmet.
>
>I was planning on getting a
Snell SA2000 rated helmet with a face shield
>(in case I go Karting
too.)
>
>My question is for people who have helmets, any particular
helmets that
>are good or bad for: fit, feel, weight or vetilation?
I once borrowed a
>cheap helmet that fogged up almosty instantly and I
want to avoid problems
>like this.
>
>The one I am currently
leaning towards is a BELL M2 SA2000 $299 See link
>Below for picture,
price and
details.
>
>http://www.racerwholesale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RW&Product_Code=MAT2301&Category_Code=Racing+Helmets
>
>Anyone
here actually use this helmet? any good or bad experiences with
>other
helmets?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 15:01:30
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
Kevin,
I saw your web
site (which has pretty good comments and links on making your
own MBC, others
should check it out) and I'm guessing it cost more then $8
if you include
your R&D time. Also, I'm guessing the springs don't quite
work the
same in hot weather versus cold (which may also effect longevity)
or even
from the time you start your car in sub zero weather until the time
your done
driving. Not that my EBC adjusts for that either, but it can
quickly be
changed.
I guess it comes down to the convenience factor. I don't
"need" lots of
stuff and I could save a lot of money if I didn't use stuff
like remote
controls, dish washers, or even indoor plumbing; but personally I
don't
consider them wasted money.
And to add useful information to
this rant, remember to check out Kevin's
web site at:
http://www.pacarsearch.com/stealth/Later,
Christopher
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
To:
"Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, December 19, 2001 2:22 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Down Pipes and
Boost Controllers
> You let other people drive your car?????
Just kidding. You have a point
> about being able to change boost
levels at the track but it only takes 5
> minutes to adjust the boost
level with a MBC. This includes a little run
to
> verify the
setting and to readjust. I usually up my boost before I go to
> the
track and just take it easy while driving there and putting in race
>
fuel. What is your time worth? I spent a whole $8 on my MBC, most
EBC
run
> min. of $300. So $292 difference. My time is
worth $60/hour so that's
4.87
> hours I can spend adjusting my MBC
before I should have bought an EBC.
4.87
> hours is about 58 5 minutes
adjustments. How many people make 58 trips to
> the dragstrip in a
year or even two? Wanna see some more money saved?
How
>
about the time difference on installation? Took me about 2 hours to do
my
> EBC, 15 minutes for the MBC.
>
>
> Kevin
Schappell
>
http://kevin.schappell.com> Save
money on all of your speed parts.
>
http://www.SpeedShoppers.com>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> > From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> > Of Christopher
Deutsch
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 2:54 PM
> > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
> >
>
>
> > Ok, I can agree with Matt's argument. While we're on the
subject do you
> > happen to know which EBC(s) will do that?
>
>
> > But Kevin, tell me who makes a manual boost controller I don't
have to
> > adjust when driving in a climate where the temperature
ranges from -20
to
> > 100+ Fahrenheit. I'd love to find a
device that will save me so much
time
> > and money. Also,
does it self adjust when I put in race gas? How about
> > when I
let my younger sister drive it? ;)
> >
> > Christopher
>
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Kevin
Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
> > To:
"Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>;
>
> <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 12:04 PM
> > Subject: RE:
Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
> >
> >
> >
> With a manual boost controller you wouldn't have to stand anywhere
to
> > > adjust it :-) Once it's set, it's set no matter what
the
> > weather. 14psi
> > is
> > > 14 psi
no matter what the temperature or humidity. What does
change
is
> > the
> > > rate at which boost builds and
that is why you have to adjust
> > the gain on
> > an
>
> > EBC when the weather changes. I had a Blitz SSBC and was
>
> always adjusting
> > > when the weather changed. Do you
see why I said a waste of money?
You
> > have
> > > not
gained anything, except another fancy gadget and a lighter
> > wallet
:-)
> > >
> > > Take care,
> > >
>
> >
> > >
> > > A good boost controller shouldn't
require adjustments to compensate
for
> > > weather
changes. You should be able to set it for a target boost
level
>
> and
> > > it should stay there. Wandering boost levels
shouldn't be acceptable
in
> > an
> > > electronic boost
controller.
> > >
> > > -Matt
> > > '95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 16:01:05
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Which Helmet Do you prefer?
True on fit. I was lucky that
the site I found (
www.helmetcity.com)
was
quite kind and talked me through an exact fitting and not just
measure
around the head with a tape measure. About $350-$450 for mine
with
helmet bag and 3-4 day ground shipping since I needed it for
the
upcoming weekend ... they got it there in TWO days. Kudos to
them.
The fit is good and snug on the face and cheeks but as you said it
does
not sit on top and swivel but is snug to the head which is a
security
feeling. It does not feel heavy by any means but I am only in
the car
for 20 minutes at a time now. I do recommend helmet supports
for those
who are getting thrown around more (AutoX, karting, etc.) as your
neck
will get sore from too much use and an extra few pounds on your
noggin.
As long as you know what you like you can order online. If
you are not
as comfortable then go to the nearest Motorcycle shop and ask for
help
but remind them that you need a car helmet and not a bike
helmet.
Still, you will get used to how helmets feel. Wear one for at
least 10
minutes if not 20 minutes in the store, walking around the parking
lot,
sitting in your car (just don't drive off with it) and if your head
does
not feel like it is in a vise then get the next size smaller.
Repeat.
Then you will know what size is roughly the right one for you.
All
manufacturers are different and some have half sizes so just be ready
to
wear a balaclava under the helmet or get a haircut to make it
fit
better. Once you wear on for an event you can usually not return it
but
in the store I think sometimes test-fits are okay ... kind of like
a
shoe store.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Philip V. Glazatov
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001
16:41
I always buy helmets in stores and never online, unless I
have already
tried them in a store. Fit is very important to me. Ventilation
is
important too, but on a street helmet you could always lift the
shield
1/2"
to get more air in.
Last time I bought a HJC CL-12
helmet. I forgot the price but it was one
of
the most inexpensive
helmets, DOT and Snell approved. That helmet was
one
of the few which
actually was holding my whole head evenly. Most of them
rest only on top
of my head clamping my brains and leaving too much room
for ears and
cheeks. It also had some extra ventilation ducts. The size
was
a little
on the small side, so I asked for XXL, even though my usual
size
is XL. I
liked Arai as well but it was about $400 and I do not use
street
helmets
that often.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 16:12:09
-0500
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Down Pipes and Boost Controllers
You want to hear a rant, check
out my page on Unorthodox Racing's Under
Drive Pulley's.
I still can not
believe they sell UDP's for the 3S cars. The MBC that is on
my site is
not the one which is on my car right now. I went to Grainger and
got an
$8 inline relief valve and just tapped the ends to accept hose
nipples.
If people do not have the time or tools, I would suggest
TurboXS.com for a
good manual controller.
Thanks for the plug of my site,
Kevin
Schappell
http://kevin.schappell.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 22:28:09
-0500
From: "Bill vP" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Altered Atmosphere
let us know the results and the mods
before and after : )
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Payne, Scott <
SPayne@hunton.com>
To: <
dschilberg@pobox.com>; 'Team3S
(E-mail)' <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, December 19, 2001 3:24 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Altered
Atmosphere
> Well I signed up for 2 dyno runs, before and after,
so I'm pretty excited.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, December
19, 2001 3:21 PM
> To: 'Team3S (E-mail)'
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Altered Atmosphere
>
> They have an AWD dyno. Nuf
said.
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 21:40:42
-0600
From: "Turbo Driven" <
turbodrvn@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Altered Atmosphere
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 20:12:23
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
shotpeened rods
Anyone happen to have close-up photos of the stock rods.
I'm looking
at buying a set of used rods that were supposed to have been
polished
and shotpeened on the sides. It's hard to tell how much work was
done
and I've never seen a set of stock rods.
Normally all the
flashing is removed from the sides and the whole rod
is shotpeened --- In
this case it looks like some of the flashing was
removed and the area
shotpeened.
Before and after pics would be great if anybody has done it
to the
stock rods.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 20:39:59
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: shotpeened rods
These are shot peened and 4-way balanced
rods.
Peened on the left, stock on the right.
Its not a large
visual difference at all.
On Wed, 19 Dec 2001, Jim Berry
wrote:
> Anyone happen to have close-up photos of the stock rods. I'm
looking
> at buying a set of used rods that were supposed to have been
polished
> and shotpeened on the sides. It's hard to tell how much work
was done
> and I've never seen a set of stock rods.
>
>
Normally all the flashing is removed from the sides and the whole rod
> is
shotpeened --- In this case it looks like some of the flashing was
>
removed and the area shotpeened.
>
> Before and after pics would be
great if anybody has done it to the
> stock rods.
>
> Jim Berry
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 20:58:12
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: shotpeened rods
Hmm..duh me.
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/celicas/PAM/DSCF0012.JPGThe
rod on the right is 100% stock, no balancing either.
On Wed, 19 Dec 2001,
Jim Berry wrote:
> And where might these pictures be Mr. Mohler
???
>
>
>
Jim Berry
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 20:52:43
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
shotpeened rods
Geoff ---- thanks
Hmmmm ---- are those rods
from your VR4. The rods I have are a little
different, the radius where it
connects to the big end is a little tighter
and the piston oil squirter
sticks out more plus a few more differences.
Any pictures showing the
flashing on the sides ?????
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 22:03:00
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: shotpeened rods
No, the Celica AllTrac.
On Wed, 19 Dec
2001, Jim Berry wrote:
> Geoff ---- thanks
>
>
Hmmmm ---- are those rods from your VR4. The rods I have are a little
>
different, the radius where it connects to the big end is a little
tighter
> and the piston oil squirter sticks out more plus a few
more differences.
>
> Any pictures showing the flashing on the
sides ?????
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 14:13:06
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Altered Atmosphere
Yes, we are all very interest in the
results as I still hope they learn how
to use the dyno correctly. Just ask
them also to plot the tranny loss on the
graph.
At the end they will
show you upgrade paths and convince you to buy their
parts. Some of them are
good others not (like the leaking fuel rails, not my
experience). Make sure
you get what you pay for and check how the
installation was done as some
people had to drive back again to let them
finish the job or asking why the
car stopped at the lights and never came on
again.
At the end they are
not better nor worse like any other shop, but some stuff
is a little strange.
They made a 720cc injector PROM for the VPC so it will
work in our cars
(together with a S-AFC). But they sell this for way too
high prices and there
is not always a guarantee that the stuff also works.
This is great when
having a dyno in the shop as you can change its
parameters and voilą you are
gettign the numbers expected from the engine. I
saw this even here in
Switzerland :-(
Also you should not think that any dyno can be used for
tuning as there is
simply not enough air (and cool air) flowing through the
intercoolers. This
is why I have seen more than three engines going south due
to insufficient
cooling on a dyno.
Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch> let us know the
results and the mods before and after : )
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: Payne, Scott <
SPayne@hunton.com>
> To: <
dschilberg@pobox.com>; 'Team3S
(E-mail)' <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 3:24 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Altered
Atmosphere
>
>
> > Well I signed up for 2 dyno runs, before
and after, so I'm pretty
excited.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 09:23:09
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Altered Atmosphere
> Also you should not think that any
dyno can be used for tuning as there is
> simply not enough air (and cool
air) flowing through the intercoolers.
> This
> is why I have seen
more than three engines going south due to insufficient
> cooling on a
dyno.
>
> Good luck
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
I have not yet
checked with Mike but I would recommend that you buy
+ bring an Electric HV
(high velocity) Fan. I have one right now that I use
to draw fumes/dust
etc out of my garage when I am working on my car. I will
be buying a
second so that I can have each of my fans blowing air through
the IC's while
using theirs to blow air through the radiator.
The fan was about $150,
they are probably closer to 200 now but its
cheap insurance if Mike will let
you use them, and they have a multitude of
other uses if you do not mid the
noise they make.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 09:53:17
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Altered Atmosphere
So Roger, when are we going to see some 600+ whp cars
coming off of those
fine Swiss dynos? Obviously since you're such an
expert and could school
all of the lowly North American shops, we should be
seeing your cars and
your name ranking right along side luminaries like
Hennessey, Lingenfelter,
Millen and Buschur, right?
Some facts
Roger: I have been to AAM and seen their work first hand.
You
have not. AAM has produced running cars which have been recently
TRACK
PROVEN. You have not. AAM, as well as the other shops, have
consistently
done things you would have us believe are impossible or
impractical. They
are respected by many in the Supra and 3S communities. Your
continued
attacks on seemingly every 3S shop in North America is really
getting old.
If you had record setting cars wonderful new technologies for
sale at
bargain prices, then you'd have a leg to stand on. But you're
just talk.
Theories and speculation and a handful of 2 year old dyno pull
which really
didn't prove anything noteworthy. Your arrogance and
imagined superiority
is an insult to the hard work of many dedicated
individuals in our
community.
To anyone who is considering AAM for
their tuning needs, I doubt you'll find
a shop on the east coast with similar
expertise. They're knowledgeable and
professional, and unlike Roger, I
have experienced this first hand. You can
find feedback on Altered
Atmosphere on 3si.org and supraforums.com. They're
not perfect, but
show me a shop or individual who is?
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX
Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Roger Gerl (RTEC)
Sent:
Thursday, December 20, 2001 8:13 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Altered Atmosphere
Yes, we are all very interest in the results as I
still hope they learn how
to use the dyno correctly. Just ask them also to
plot the tranny loss on the
graph.
At the end they will show you
upgrade paths and convince you to buy their
parts. Some of them are good
others not (like the leaking fuel rails, not my
experience). Make sure you
get what you pay for and check how the
installation was done as some people
had to drive back again to let them
finish the job or asking why the car
stopped at the lights and never came on
again.
At the end they are not
better nor worse like any other shop, but some stuff
is a little strange.
They made a 720cc injector PROM for the VPC so it will
work in our cars
(together with a S-AFC). But they sell this for way too
high prices and there
is not always a guarantee that the stuff also works.
This is great when
having a dyno in the shop as you can change its
parameters and voilą you are
gettign the numbers expected from the engine. I
saw this even here in
Switzerland :-(
Also you should not think that any dyno can be used for
tuning as there is
simply not enough air (and cool air) flowing through the
intercoolers. This
is why I have seen more than three engines going south due
to insufficient
cooling on a dyno.
Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch> let us know the
results and the mods before and after : )
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: Payne, Scott <
SPayne@hunton.com>
> To: <
dschilberg@pobox.com>; 'Team3S
(E-mail)' <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 3:24 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Altered
Atmosphere
>
>
> > Well I signed up for 2 dyno runs, before
and after, so I'm pretty
excited.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 09:38:49
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Quality HV Fans
I have model 3613 you have to go to the pdf
format brochure for details but
the fan is rated to move 10K CFM
:) Two of these aughta keep the stockers
plenty
cool.....
http://www.trianglefans.com/jetaire.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 08:58:50
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Altered Atmosphere
> AAM has produced running cars which
have been recently
> TRACK PROVEN.
Can you elaborate on this?
What sorts of numbers have they run?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 10:29:22
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Altered Atmosphere
They ran a weekend or two back when Matt Monet had his
10 sec runs. Their
green race Stealth was running something like 11.3
if I recall correctly.
They were having similar problems to Matt in the area
of high RPM clutch
disengagement and spark blowout. But the fact is,
they're finally getting
their cars on the track. They also have a FWD
TT (which Roger said couldn't
possibly be making the power it does) similar
to mine, but with many more
upgrades running 13 flat with a rookie
driver.
They also have a few customer cars with varying levels of
"official" shop
support running some good times. Trent Karr, whose car was
built by AAM was
running mid-high 12s with very little in the way of
bolt-ons. I can probably
dig up the information if you really want
it.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jannusch, Matt
Sent:
Thursday, December 20, 2001 9:59 AM
To:
'jeffv@1nce.com'; Team3s Tech
List
Subject: RE: Team3S: Altered Atmosphere
> AAM has produced
running cars which have been recently
> TRACK PROVEN.
Can you
elaborate on this? What sorts of numbers have they run?
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 11:22:35
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Altered Atmosphere
In some of the pics I have found from my visit
there they had two or
three fans feeding the front of the car. I don't
know what speed they
were.
http://mi3si.org/phproot/image.php?image=/gatherings/ecg2k1/jpgs/MVC-044F.JPG
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
Sent:
Thursday, December 20, 2001 09:23
I have not yet checked with Mike
but I would recommend that you
buy
+ bring an Electric HV (high velocity)
Fan. I have one right now that I
use
to draw fumes/dust etc out of
my garage when I am working on my car. I
will
be buying a second so
that I can have each of my fans blowing air
through
the IC's while using
theirs to blow air through the radiator.
The fan was about $150, they
are probably closer to 200 now but
its
cheap insurance if Mike will let
you use them, and they have a multitude
of
other uses if you do not mid
the noise they make.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 11:38:20
-0500
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Altered Atmosphere
Well so far the overwhelming response to AAM
is very positive. Tomorrow I am
getting the following mods -
1994 Dodge
Steath Twin Turbo R/T
K&N Filter Charger
Mods tomorrow:
BLITZ
Dual SBC-i
Y-Pipe
Down Pipe
high flow main cat
Gut pre-Cats
Ignition system (HKS Twin Power Ignition Amplifiers)
NGK plugs
2 Dyno
runs
In a few months I plan to add a little NOS....
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 11:23
AM
To: 'Team 3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Altered Atmosphere
In some of
the pics I have found from my visit there they had two or
three fans feeding
the front of the car. I don't know what speed they
were.
http://mi3si.org/phproot/image.php?image=/gatherings/ecg2k1/jpgs/MVC-044F.JPG
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
Sent:
Thursday, December 20, 2001 09:23
I have not yet checked with Mike
but I would recommend that you
buy
+ bring an Electric HV (high velocity)
Fan. I have one right now that I
use
to draw fumes/dust etc out of
my garage when I am working on my car. I
will
be buying a second so
that I can have each of my fans blowing air
through
the IC's while using
theirs to blow air through the radiator.
The fan was about $150, they
are probably closer to 200 now but
its
cheap insurance if Mike will let
you use them, and they have a multitude
of
other uses if you do not mid
the noise they make.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#704
***************************************
