Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, December 12 2001 Volume 01 :
Number
697
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 11 Dec 2001 10:42:46 -0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Drag
racing (was Road Racing)
Personally, I think this whole big turbo/little
turbo debate is stupid. The
TD04 cars aren't even breaking the records
of other TD04 cars. Aside from
Dynamic Racing's work just this year,
not many people have put some SERIOUS
R&D into these cars. We have
a small handful of guys usually spending their
personal money on their racing
endeavors, and while they're posting
respectable numbers, they just don't
have the time, money, and expertise to
take things to the next level.
Most 3S owners are scared to drag at all for
fear of breaking their
driveline, and the few who do just can't do it full
time and at the same
level that a shop can.
This isn't about turbos or drivelines or
platforms. It's about OWNERS. 3SI
does not have the equivalent of
money men like Saad or SW or Sound
Performance like the Supra guys do.
We do not have Peter Farrel or Petit
Racing like the rotary guys, and we do
not have our own Steve Millen like
the Nissan guys. We don't have David
Buschur and a DSM Tech List as our 4
cylinder cousins do. What we do have is
an often squabbling tech list that
is more devoted to brakes than anything
else and whose membership can't even
agree on what features the cars came
with in the first place ("traction
control" comes to mind), much less how to
maximize their performance! The
REAL performance and "technical"
developments in the last couple years have
come from 3SI and shops like
Dynamic and Altered Atmosphere. But we are
still WAY behind our peers
in the sports car world. Hell, the LS1 F-bodies
have been out for half
the time our cars were and they're WAY ahead of us.
So maybe instead of
challenging other people to innovate, you could make
yourselves part of the
solution. If you don't drag, and you don't want to
take an active role
in advancing drag racing, maybe you should stay out of
it. The road
racers will chuckle and be content that their racing is more
"sophisticated",
but 4 guys at a road course don't generate publicity and
aftermarket interest
like a guy with a mid 10 second drag car will.
I'm off on a tangent now,
but I need to speak my mind. I'm sick of seeing
all the doubt,
skepticism, hearsay, rumor and theory, and seeing so little
FACT and REAL
WORLD testing. This is doing far more to hold us back and
hurt us than
anything else is. It's depressing. There is no reason in my
mind
that we should be playing second fiddle to anyone in the import world.
But we
do. If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the
problem.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 09:05:54
-0800
From: "john stewart" <
john.stewart@bigfoot.com>
Subject:
Team3S: timing belt & keyless entry
Great list! I had a local
mechanic replace my timing belt ('92 TT) last
year before I subscribed, so of
course, my water pump is going now. Just
read through the excellent 60k
service FAQ and will be supplying that to the
mechanic, along with the parts.
I'm pretty sure he doesn't have any
Mitsu-specific tools - so how much will
the two tools mentioned in the FAQ
cost? I'm thinking I'll order all of
this stuff to be sure that I'm getting
good prices and that having the stuff
ready to go will save time.
I've also been following the keyless entry
thread. Was this an option on the
'92 model year? My car has the factory
alarm system.
While I'm in maintenance mode, is there a good way to get a
lazy seat belt
retractor to work again?
And does anyone know the part
numbers for the defroster vents? Has anyone
figured out a better way to
replace these than to break out the old ones and
glue in the new
ones?
Thanks again for all of the great info!
\John
Stewart
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 09:42:17
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: timing belt & keyless entry
>> And does anyone know
the part numbers for the
>> defroster vents? Has anyone figured out a
better
>> way to replace these than to break out the old
>>
ones and glue in the new ones?
I don't know if it is "better" or not but
removing the dash is a bit
of a hassle but not traumatic.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-2-dashpanel.htmDefroster
vent replacement (with part numbers):
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-2-defrgarnish.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "john stewart" <
john.stewart@bigfoot.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, December 11, 2001 10:05 AM
Subject: Team3S: timing belt &
keyless entry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 11:24:25
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Drag racing
For those of you that don't log into 3SI here is
a summary of Matt
Monett's (Dynamic Racing) recent accomplishments in the 1/4
mile.
Note that these numbers are at 3600 feet above sea level!
10.88
@ 129.1 - 18 psi boost and 70 shot nitrous
10.942 @ 128 -
18 psi boost and 70 shot nitrous
10.96 @ 129.96 - 22 psi boost (no
nitrous)
Matt's mods on his 1995 Stealth R/T TT (as of 11/22/01):
- -
8.5:1 Ross/GT-PRO pistons set-up for 0.100" longer rods
- - Pauter 0.100"
longer rods
- - Lightly ported heads, with stock valves
(may have
race port heads with big valves now)
- - DR street spec cams 212/212 @
0.050", and .400" lift at the valve
- - UR cam gears (1 deg adv on intake, 3
deg ret on exhaust)
- - DR high rev spring kit
- - Lifters shimmed .060"
- - RC big bore TB (plenum/ TB port matched to TB 65mm)
- - GT-368
turbos, ported with 15 degree clip
- - DN 02 remover pipes
- - ATR down
pipe
- - ATR exhaust
- - UR underdrive pulley
- - GT-PRO Intercooler
w/ extended end tanks
(I think this is a FMIC)
- - ARC-2 with
upgraded 87-mm MAS
- - DN intake pipe kit
- - Denso 720cc injectors
(flow matched by RC)
- - Denso fuel pump with Kenne-Bell Boost-A-Pump and
hot wired
- - DR -6 fuel line up-grade from the tank to twin-feed rails
-
- Blitz DSBC
- - Greddy EGT and boost gauges
- - Autometer fuel pressure
guage
- - Kenne-Bell Boost-A-Spark
- - G-Force ECU with DR custom
programming
- - Triad WI/Alcohol kit
- - NOS kit
I'm not sure on
the clutch/flywheel Matt is using. He did mention he
will adding Accel coils
because of spark blow-out at high (28? psi)
boost.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 14:29:39
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Drag
racing
Matt is using the new carbon/carbon RPS III variant. It
comes with its own
lightweight flywheel.
The heads were actually
stockers swapped in in an emergency measure. His
timing tensioner went
on Friday (I think) so they had to pull the big valve
race ported heads and
install the stockers just to make the race on Sunday.
That, folks, is
dedication.
It's also worth noting that he was running Nitto 555R Drag
radials on all 4
wheels and was still having traction problems!
:-o
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Tuesday,
December 11, 2001 2:24 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Drag racing
For those of you that don't log into 3SI here is
a summary of Matt
Monett's (Dynamic Racing) recent accomplishments in the 1/4
mile.
Note that these numbers are at 3600 feet above sea level!
10.88
@ 129.1 - 18 psi boost and 70 shot nitrous
10.942 @ 128 -
18 psi boost and 70 shot nitrous
10.96 @ 129.96 - 22 psi boost (no
nitrous)
Matt's mods on his 1995 Stealth R/T TT (as of 11/22/01):
- -
8.5:1 Ross/GT-PRO pistons set-up for 0.100" longer rods
- - Pauter 0.100"
longer rods
- - Lightly ported heads, with stock valves
(may have
race port heads with big valves now)
- - DR street spec cams 212/212 @
0.050", and .400" lift at the valve
- - UR cam gears (1 deg adv on intake, 3
deg ret on exhaust)
- - DR high rev spring kit
- - Lifters shimmed
.060"
- - RC big bore TB (plenum/ TB port matched to TB 65mm)
- - GT-368
turbos, ported with 15 degree clip
- - DN 02 remover pipes
- - ATR down
pipe
- - ATR exhaust
- - UR underdrive pulley
- - GT-PRO Intercooler w/
extended end tanks
(I think this is a FMIC)
- - ARC-2 with upgraded
87-mm MAS
- - DN intake pipe kit
- - Denso 720cc injectors (flow matched
by RC)
- - Denso fuel pump with Kenne-Bell Boost-A-Pump and hot wired
- -
DR -6 fuel line up-grade from the tank to twin-feed rails
- - Blitz DSBC
-
- Greddy EGT and boost gauges
- - Autometer fuel pressure guage
- -
Kenne-Bell Boost-A-Spark
- - G-Force ECU with DR custom programming
- -
Triad WI/Alcohol kit
- - NOS kit
I'm not sure on the clutch/flywheel
Matt is using. He did mention he
will adding Accel coils because of spark
blow-out at high (28? psi)
boost.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 14:53:26
-0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: POP!! and Cruise Control
If this ever happens to anyone else,
DO NOT continue to drive your
turbo car unless you can take care of the leak,
or disconnect the arms
of the wastegates on both turbos (and even then, only
drive for as
short a distance as possible). Got a friend who did this, and
of
course, now he had a reason to upgrade to those 368 turbos -
because
both stock turbo's were blown (leaking oil) due to being
overspun.
They overspin because they are trying to push out whatever
boost your
car is set at, and because of the leak, they never will (unless
it's a
small leak, but still). Usually they start spewing oil into the
intake
or exhaust sides, or leaking externally.
RTV probably won't
work (for long), plus why risk ingesting a piece of
rtv through your engine?
A new metal y-pipe will ;). We also got it to
work for a few months on
another vr4 with a goofy coupling that went
OVER the stock y-pipe, and it had
a reducer to fit the throttle body.
Looked ghetto, but worked until he could
afford the shiny polished
one.
Vinny Singh - Why does shiny stuff cost
so much? :)
http://www.manualcd.com/ -
Service Manuals on CD for your DSM or 3/S!
http://kaizen.eaglecars.com/>
Subject: Team3S: POP!! and Cruise Control
>
> So there I was drivin'
my happy self down the road at about 45mph
when I
> hear a loud pop,
and my engine starts running like a 3 legged horse.
I'm
> thinkin "Oh
$#%^, there went my,... sumthin'". So I pull over to
discover
>
that my Y pipe had blow off. I had to drive it home like that so
I
could
> get a screw driver and fix it. I had no idea how
gutless our cars
are
> without turbos. I couldn't get it above
30! Anyhow, I'm gonna use
some RTV
> on it so see if that keeps
it on. Anyone have any experience fixin'
this
> problem?
Will RTV work?
>
> Secondly, I seem to remember a few weeks back a
thread about cruse
control
> not working above 90. Well, I can
vouch that mine works at up to
130
> (didn't try it any higher, but
maby more). Is this unusual?
>
> - -T.J. 92' 3000GT
VR-4
>
> PS: I Hate AT&T's new service (Being capped at a T1
Stinks!!)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 13:35:54
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuse size for battery relocated in the trunk?
So I'm relocating
my battery [Optima] to my trunk in my '95 VR-4.
Battery box, tie-down, 1/0
gauge wire, inline fuses, and associated parts
are all in the plan.
However I'm not quite sure what amperage fuse to use at the
battery.
For safety reasons, I want a fuse located right at the battery in
the trunk,
so this fuse will have to carry all the current used to drive the
starter
and charge the battery. Any idea what the current draw of our
starters is?
A 200A fuse seems to be the largest I can find from the
car-stereo world,
but is this enough?
I know some people on the list
have relocated their batteries to the
trunk and pass tech inspections, so
what kind of fuse/circuit breaker do you
use?
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 14:04:23
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuse size for battery relocated in the trunk?
Use a breaker,
I went 200A in the Jeep, and 150A in the Celica.
At least if I screw up
at the track...etc..and short it out, I can reset
it.
On Tue, 11 Dec
2001, Gross, Erik wrote:
> So I'm relocating my battery [Optima] to my
trunk in my '95 VR-4.
> Battery box, tie-down, 1/0 gauge wire, inline
fuses, and associated parts
> are all in the plan.
>
>
However I'm not quite sure what amperage fuse to use at the battery.
> For
safety reasons, I want a fuse located right at the battery in the trunk,
>
so this fuse will have to carry all the current used to drive the
starter
> and charge the battery. Any idea what the current draw of
our starters is?
> A 200A fuse seems to be the largest I can find from the
car-stereo world,
> but is this enough?
>
> I know some
people on the list have relocated their batteries to the
> trunk and pass
tech inspections, so what kind of fuse/circuit breaker do you
>
use?
>
> --Erik
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 14:30:39
-0800
From: ARMIN MEIER <
guetch@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
RE:TEAM3s: fuse size
GEOFF,
My worry is the cable from the eng.
comp. to the rear. you spect 1/0.It is
rated at 100 amp at 60c and 180 amp at
200c.
So, it depends on the cable but you make certain it wont start a
fire.
Also use a slow blow fuse and you can get them from an electrical
outfit.
i/e renewable and purchase extra links.
If the starter succs more
you may increase the cable size.
Armin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 18:17:10
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Matts mods to do 10s at 3600ft
I posted the mods here in case
people were too lazy to go to 3si. Matt only
boosted to 20psi because
the stock coils caused spark blow-out above that
amount. His NOS runs
are very similar to non-NOS probably due to the crappy
ignition
system.
as for my motor specks, there a open book,
I have 8.5 to 1
ross/gt-pro pistons set-up for .100" long rods
Pauter .100" long rods (this
is to increase piston dwell)
Lightly ported heads, with stock valves (A race
port set of heads, with big
valves is in the works as we speak)
DR street
spec cams
212/212@0.050, and .400 lift at the
valve
DR high rev spring kit
lifters shimed .060"
RC big bore TB
(plenum/ TB port matched to TB 65mm)
GT-368 turbos, ported with 15deg
clip
DN 02 remover pipes
ATR down pipe
ATR exhaust
UR UD
pulley
UR cam gears (1 deg advance on intake, 3deg retard on
exhaust)
GT-pro Intercooler w/ extended end tanks (the best there is!
Extending the
End tanks was Brian's Idea, and a good 1 at that!)
ARC-2
with up-graded 87mm MAS
DN intake pipe kit
720cc Denso injectors (flow
matched by RC)
Denso fuel pump with Ken-Bell boost-A-pump, and hot
wired
DR -6 fuel line up-grade from the tank to the railes (twin feed
railes)
Blitz DSBC
Greddy EGT, and boost
Automeater fuel pres
guage
ken-bell boost-a-spark
G-Force ECU with my own custom programming
(that I can have dun for you too,
so no big deal)
Triad Alkie kit
50HP
NOS kit (not run on this motor yet)
I think that’s about it...
0 of these
parts are "secrets" or Special. ...."
Thats all folks! Add in some
weight reduction, CF driveshafts, Accel coils
and some true slicks, this
could easily be a 9 second street car because
until his front diff locked up,
he couldn't rev as high as the motor was
prepped to go, and he was severley
traction limited. Corrected times from
his altitude show its already in
the 9s at a sea level track,
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 17:41:57
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Matts mods to do 10s at 3600ft
> Corrected times from his
altitude show its already in the
> 9s at a sea level track,
Drop .8
of a second by correction? I don't think so... That was a
number
"1badVR4" pulled from nowhere in the thread on 3si.org. Matt
claimed 10.4
at sea level - a good difference away from 9's.
Still,
there's obviously a lot of potential still in that car that hasn't
been
tapped yet. I for one am happy to see someone seriously going
all-out
with a 3/S.
Best of luck, and congratulations to Matt and
Dynamic Racing!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 17:27:04
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: timing belt & keyless entry
At 10:05 AM 12/11/01 , john
stewart wrote:
>Great list! I had a local mechanic replace my
timing belt ('92 TT) last
>year before I subscribed, so of course, my
water pump is going now. Just
>read through the excellent 60k
service FAQ and will be supplying that to the
>mechanic, along with the
parts. I'm pretty sure he doesn't have any
>Mitsu-specific tools
He
should have them if he did your timing belt.
>I've also been
following the keyless entry thread. Was this an option on the
>'92 model
year?
No
>While I'm in maintenance mode, is there a good
way to get a lazy seat belt
>retractor to work again?
Try poping
the cover off the "loop". (the slot it goes through that swivels
attached to
the rear pillar) This sometimes helps.
>Thanks again for all of
the great info!
>
>\John Stewart
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 18:35:19
-0500
From: "Infernalist" <
baali@wwnet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Aftermarket Y Pipe
Where is the best (read economical) place to get an
aftermarkey y pipe? Mine
has blown off 3 times in the past 2 weeks, and is
warped and all messed up
(im not overboosting either, it was mangled when i
go tthe car) anyways the
prices i have been seeing are 350 and up, is this
the best ill get? thanks
in advance
Ron Zilinsky
92 RT/TT
Stage
II Clutch
Gutted Precats
The "What Cat" Test Pipe
HKS EVC
EZ
Autometer Boost Gauge
K&N FIPK
Lead Foot <---- That mod was
Free ;p
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 01:19:51
+0000
From: "Aaron Kealey" <
aaron_kealey@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Newcomer to the twin turbo world.
Hi all,
3 weeks ago i
bought a 93 Stealth TT with 86,000 km's (or 53,500 miles for
you yanks ;)
What a rocket! Anyway, I'm having a few minor problems that i
was wondering
if someone with more 3S time under their belt might be able to
help me out
with.
1- when i get off the gas and then get back on it, there is a small
'thump'
and jerk forward. feels like i quickly kicked the clutch. A friend
of mine
said he thinks it is a broken motor mount or transmission mount. Any
experience out there with something like that?
2- When i park after a
good drive, there is an ugly smell and wafts of steam
escaping from the gaps
around the drivers side headlight. I am now sure its
coolant. It doesn't
leak when sitting on the driveway, only under pressure.
I see alot of talk
about replacing water pumps here, and i really hope thats
not it. I dont
know where else it could be escaping though. All the
reachable hose-clamps
are tight. The rad is in great shape. Someone please
tell me i dont need to
pull the water pump...please?
Just learning the ins and outs of the car,
so any info would be a huge help
in the dark here.
Keep 'em
spooled,
Aaron
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 18:39:38
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Newcomer to the twin turbo world.
At 06:19 PM 12/11/01 , Aaron
Kealey wrote:
>1- when i get off the gas and then get back on it,
there is a small
>'thump' and jerk forward. feels like i quickly kicked
the clutch. A friend
>of mine said he thinks it is a broken motor mount
or transmission mount.
>Any experience out there with something like
that?
You could be right about the motor mount, but it could also be a
bad
driveshaft u-joint, rear end, or shaft that mates the tranny to the
transfer case. It's definatly one of these four things.
>2- When i
park after a good drive, there is an ugly smell and wafts of
>steam
escaping from the gaps around the drivers side headlight. I am now
>sure
its coolant. It doesn't leak when sitting on the driveway, only under
>pressure.
Have you opened the hood real quick to see where it's
coming from?
Maybe let it run with the hood open, keeping an eye on various
things?
A leaking water pump usally will drip fro around the area of the
crank pulley.
> I see alot of talk about replacing water pumps
here, and i really hope
> thats not it. I dont know where else it could
be escaping though. All the
> reachable hose-clamps are tight. The rad is
in great shape. Someone
> please tell me i dont need to pull the water
pump...please?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 22:11:26
-0600
From: "Phil J. Hosner" <
redvr4@texas.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Aftermarket Y Pipe
DN performance has them for $183 or so. Check them out
here ~~~
http://www.dnperformance.com/Phil
~ '92 VR4
3/SI Member #0984
http://redvr4.home.texas.net-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Infernalist" <
baali@wwnet.net>
To: "Team3s" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, December 11, 2001 05:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: Aftermarket Y
Pipe
Where is the best (read economical) place to get an aftermarkey y
pipe? Mine
has blown off 3 times in the past 2 weeks, and is warped and all
messed up
(im not overboosting either, it was mangled when i go tthe car)
anyways the
prices i have been seeing are 350 and up, is this the best ill
get? thanks
in advance
Ron Zilinsky
92 RT/TT
Stage II
Clutch
Gutted Precats
The "What Cat" Test Pipe
HKS EVC EZ
Autometer
Boost Gauge
K&N FIPK
Lead Foot <---- That mod was Free
;p
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 07:00:00
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: altitude (was: Drag racing, Matt's mods)
> Note that these
numbers are at 3600 feet above sea level!
> Corrected times from his
altitude show its already in the 9s at a sea level track
Does elevation
have much impact on turbo engines? Do the same correction factors apply
for
normally aspirated and forced induction engines? Seems to me that
thinner air would make it harder
to achieve boost, but pressure is
pressure. If a turbo engine achieves 18 psi at sea level and 18
psi at
3600 feet, what's the difference in power?
And for the road racers: how
does elevation impact cooling? Does thinner air result in higher
temps
due to less moving across the radiator, intercoolers, brake rotors,
etc.?
- -Jim (who still can't figure out why his AVC-R v.1 limits boost
to 7psi when driving in the Alps,
and who boiled coolant out of the overflow
tank during a fast summer drive around Grossglockner)
- - --
Jim
Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 22:25:47
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: altitude (was: Drag racing, Matt's mods)
Pressure is
pressure, but its all relative to the conditions you try to
generate it
in.
Theres less air to compress higher, so less to push thru the turbo to
even
turn it..etc..etc.
I had a steady .25 second diffence between my
times in Houston -vs- Tulsa
for years. Turbo alone or with NOS &
Turbo.
On Wed, 12 Dec 2001, Jim Matthews wrote:
> > Note
that these numbers are at 3600 feet above sea level!
> > Corrected
times from his altitude show its already in the 9s at a sea level track
>
> Does elevation have much impact on turbo engines? Do the same
correction factors apply for
> normally aspirated and forced induction
engines? Seems to me that thinner air would make it harder
> to
achieve boost, but pressure is pressure. If a turbo engine achieves 18 psi
at sea level and 18
> psi at 3600 feet, what's the difference in
power?
>
> And for the road racers: how does elevation impact
cooling? Does thinner air result in higher
> temps due to less
moving across the radiator, intercoolers, brake rotors, etc.?
>
>
-Jim (who still can't figure out why his AVC-R v.1 limits boost to 7psi when
driving in the Alps,
> and who boiled coolant out of the overflow tank
during a fast summer drive around Grossglockner)
>
> - --
>
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
>
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
>
http://www.the-matthews.com>
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 00:31:13
-0800
From: "Richard Kerrill" <
rkerrill@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: suggestions for engine, parts and mechanics in Las Vegas area?
1)
Anyone suggest good parts source and credible mechanic in Las Vegas,
NV
area?
2) Is it better to have the engine rebuilt or just as good to
replace with a
rebuilt from Japan or other?.
(A LosAngeles dealer rebuilt
the top end from timing belt problem 4 yrs ago.
I had a lazy lifter ever
since and now I threw a rod or something through
the
oil pan about center
of car. Oil was not low.)
3) Can I possibly get away with replacing
just crank and the one piston if
the car stalled right away?
4) Can a
novice attempt replacing a whole engine and achieve successful
results or is
it too complicated with a 3000GT SL?
Any advice or suggestions greatly
appreciated.
- -RichK
'92 3000GT SL white, 184k miles
Las Vegas,
NV
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 07:14:13
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: altitude
Elevation affects turbocharged engines in two
ways.
First, as Geoff Mohler pointed out, the air is thinner the higher
you
go above sea level. On average, air pressure decreases by 0.5
psi
(0.03515 kg/cm2) for every 1000 feet (304.8 m) of elevation
increase.
For example, at sea level (14.7 psi) and 100ºF (37.778ºC) air has
an
average density of 1.1358 g/L or 0.0709 lb/CF (pound per cubic
foot).
At 5500' ASL (where I live in Colorado, USA) the air pressure is
only
12.0 psi and at 100ºF weighs 0.9272 g/L or 0.0579 lb/CF.
At 18
psi of boost at sea level (and no temperature change), the air
is compressed
a factor of (18+14.7)/14.7 or 2.23 and density
increases to 0.158 lb/CF. At
18 psi boost (no temp change) at 5500'
ASL, air is compressed by a factor of
(18+12)/12) or 2.5 and density
increases to 0.145 lb/CF - about 8.3% less
dense than at sea level
(and so about 8% less power). Of course the air in
the plenum is
usually hotter than atmospheric so will be less dense than in
these
examples.
For normally aspirated (NA) engines the difference in
air diensity is
more dramatic. Using the above example, the NA engine is
using air
that is 18% less dense. That means about 18% less power for the
NA
cars versus 8% less power for the turbo car (at ~18 psi boost). We
have
lots of fun with Vettes and F-bodies up here in Colorado. :)
The second
factor is the pressure ratio (PR) mentioned above. Note
that at 18 psi the PR
is higher at 5500' ASL than at sea level, 2.5
versus 2.23. Turbos have a
maximum PR they are capable of. Also, the
efficiency is determined by PR and
air flow. If 3.0 is the max PR for
a certain turbo, then at sea level this
means the max boost (right
after the turbo) is 29.4 psig (3x14.7=58.8 psia).
At 5500' ASL, the
same turbo would max out at 24 psig (3x12=48 psia). Turbos
sized for
a 1.5 L engine (3 of our cylinders) usually have a max PR of 2.8
to
3.1. To get near a max of 4.0 PR, much larger turbos (that is, they
are
sized for larger engines like 3+ L) are needed.
psig = psi gauge
(pressure above atmospheric)
psia = psi absolute (absolute
pressure)
Unit converters:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-converters.htmAir
and fuel flow calculators (calculate air density):
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-air-fuel-flow.htmTurbo
outlet temp calculator:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-turbotemp.htmA
Pressurization Primer:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-primer.htmAdiabatic
processes:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-adiabat1.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
To: "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, December 11, 2001 11:00 PM
Subject: Team3S: altitude (was: Drag
racing, Matt's mods)
<snip>
Does elevation have much impact on turbo
engines? Do the same
correction factors apply for normally aspirated
and forced induction
engines? Seems to me that thinner air would make
it harder to
achieve boost, but pressure is pressure. If a turbo engine
achieves
18 psi at sea level and 18 psi at 3600 feet, what's the difference
in
power?
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#697
***************************************