Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, December 11 2001
Volume 01 : Number
696
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 Dec 2001 21:22:48 -0700
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: POP!! and
Cruise Control
So there I was drivin' my happy self down the road at
about 45mph when I
hear a loud pop, and my engine starts running like a 3
legged horse. I'm
thinkin "Oh $#%^, there went my,... sumthin'".
So I pull over to discover
that my Y pipe had blow off. I had to drive
it home like that so I could
get a screw driver and fix it. I had no
idea how gutless our cars are
without turbos. I couldn't get it above
30! Anyhow, I'm gonna use some RTV
on it so see if that keeps it
on. Anyone have any experience fixin' this
problem? Will RTV
work?
Secondly, I seem to remember a few weeks back a thread about cruse
control
not working above 90. Well, I can vouch that mine works at up
to 130
(didn't try it any higher, but maby more). Is this
unusual?
- -T.J. 92' 3000GT VR-4
PS: I Hate AT&T's new service
(Being capped at a T1 Stinks!!)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 01:39:43
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: POP!! and Cruise Control
Just clean everything with gas or
contact cleaner, put that pipe back on
and tighten the clamps well. If it
pops again, use super glue or buy an
aftermarket Y-pipe.
Your car was
"gutless" because the MAS was not measuring the air. I am
surprised it was
able to run at all without one of the air pipes.
Philip
At 10:22
PM 12/09/01, Thomas Jeys wrote:
>So there I was drivin' my happy self down
the road at about 45mph when I
>hear a loud pop, and my engine starts
running like a 3 legged horse. I'm
>thinkin "Oh $#%^, there went
my,... sumthin'". So I pull over to discover
>that my Y pipe had
blow off. I had to drive it home like that so I could
>get a screw
driver and fix it. I had no idea how gutless our cars are
>without
turbos. I couldn't get it above 30! Anyhow, I'm gonna use some
RTV
>on it so see if that keeps it on. Anyone have any experience
fixin' this
>problem? Will RTV work?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 08:31:40
-0500
From:
AMastrangelo@giwindustries.comSubject:
Team3S: RE:ECU Problem
Hey Guys,
My car has 156,000
miles on it and runs ok. The ECU went bad about a
month ago, so I ordred one
from ECU specialist and installed it. Once
installed the check engine light
had came on. When I took it back to the
dealer to have it put on thier
computer it put out codes for option on my
car that I did not have. So
the ECU company sent me another one and stated
that the first one may have
been for a AWD 3k instead. I did install the
new one, and now the check
engine light stays off, but the car does not
want to run good. When I
crank it up, the tach surges up and down. When
you try to hold the gas at a
certain rpm it wants to go back down The car
idles as if it is going to cut
off at any minute.When the gas is pressed
slowly down, the car bogs down like
it is getting too much fuel. When the
gas is pressed it also seems like there
is a little noise coming from the
throttle body. Any help on this would
greatly be appreciated.
Thanks,
Anthony
1992
GT/SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:25:23
-0600
From: "Turbo Driven" <
turbodrvn@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Update: All Wheel Drive Dyno/Performance tuning in Chicago
(LONG)
<html><div
style='background-color:'><DIV><FONT size=2 PTSIZE="10">Hello
everyone.......this is my 3rd attempt to post to this mailing
list:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2
PTSIZE="10"></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2
PTSIZE="10">Happy Holidays to all,<BR><BR>I know some of you have
been anxiously anticipating a post from me regarding this subject.
I've been in contact with Mike from DynaTech since the earlier part of
this 2001 year. I approached them and established a good relationship
with Mike when they were originally located near the downtown Chicago area.
Some of us are aware by now that they have moved and their
new location is in Riverside, IL (near suburb of Chicago located about 10
minutes west of the city).<BR><BR>I know we've all heard about their
ALL WHEEL DRIVE Dyno machine by now. Some of us thought that they will
not allow us to tune our AWD vehicles and was strictly for Emission purposes
only. Well recently, Mike and I had a good conversation
about the amount of AWD PERFORMANCE vehicles that are in the Chicago land
& Nationwide market and we've come up with a resolution.
<BR><BR>First of all, I'm impressed! &n!
bsp;This new
shop is a state of the art, clean, professional Care Care Center facility. I've
now established a good reason for using the AWD Dyno for performance tuning
purposes as well. The rate is still the same at $125 per hour and we
should be able to get 6-8 runs in within that hour; I'm working on a group
discount for all of us. This will be for a Full Service Dyno analysis
& performance tuning session; which includes a 5 gas emission analyzer
(cost them $10,000) that according to Mike works more efficiently than a wide
band o2 sensor (that usually costs around $700 to $1,200). Again, we
will be allowed to perform any tuning adjustments needed between runs while the
car is still strapped onto the Dyno. I recall that some of us were
concerned that DynaTech will not allow for tuning between runs, that is not the
case anymore!!! We will be able to tune between runs!! A
Certified Dyno Technician will supervise and facilitate our
nee!
ds.<BR><BR>If anyone is interested in setting up a
Dyno run, please em
ail me privately with "Attention AWD Dyno email" in
the subject heading. I have volunteered to coordinate this with
DynaTech and will try to set up a Group Discount rate for all of us.
It would be great if we can set up a day in the near future (probably
Spring 2002? maybe sooner if the weather permits?) and reserve a whole
Saturday or Sunday and have a mini-meet of performance cars there. As
I mentioned earlier, I will try to negotiate a group discount rate if possible;
it depends on how many cars commit and actually make
appointments.<BR><BR>And lastly: No, I do not work for
DynaTech! I just thought to share this valuable information with
everyone and try to help facilitate these long awaited AWD DYNO days!!
<BR><BR>Please feel free to pass this email along to any
other AWD enthusiasts.<BR><BR>Happy Holidays and Peace to
all...........and of course, Happy
Tuning!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2
PTSIZE="10"></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2
PTSIZE="10">Remember, please email me privately so I can add you to my
Address Book Database for future updates re: the AWD DYNO days. My
email is : <A href="
mailto:Turbodrvn@aol.com">Turbodrvn@aol.com</A>
<BR><BR>Ahmed "Al-Crazy"-1992 3000GT VR4 & 1987 Grand
National (both heavily modded).</FONT></DIV></div><br
clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a
href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag_itl_EN.asp'>http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></html>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 08:46:21
-0800
From: Ian Marks <
ianmarks@2xtreme.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Labor charges for water pump
Hey all,
The water
pump's shot on my '94 RT TT. My Chrysler warranty covers the
water pump
(nice). Should I expect the labor charges to change the timing
belt to be
zero (piggybacked on the water pump R&R) because the timing belt
has to
be removed to replace the pump anyway right?
Thanks
Ian Marks
Los
Angeles
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:04:12
-0800
From: ARMIN MEIER <
guetch@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
re:team3s: labor charges for water pump
Ian,
Yes you are right the
belt has to come off anyway.
But to remove it totally the crank damper and
positioning sensor shield have
to come off also.
As I remember(the pump
was done under warranty) he would have charged an
extra 2 hrs for the belt
change.
So, I did it my self.
Make certain they retighten the tensioner
back to the pin hole!!
Good luck
Armin
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 11:11:41
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Labor charges for water pump
At 08:46 AM 12/10/01 -0800, you
wrote:
>Hey all,
> The water pump's shot on my '94 RT
TT. My Chrysler warranty covers the
>water pump (nice). Should I expect
the labor charges to change the timing
>belt to be zero (piggybacked on
the water pump R&R) because the timing belt
>has to be removed to
replace the pump anyway right?
Yes! It says so right in the shop manual
that Satan uses, because coolant
rots out timing belts. Make sure they look
it up and agree with you,
though. My Mitsu dealer changed mine under warranty
cuz the water pump went
out. Be sure to get the tensioners changed, even if
you have to pay for it.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 11:22:46
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Labor charges for water pump
Yes, even resetting the
tensioner is not really good enough in my
book... Make sure they use a new
one. They are cheap insurance.
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Merritt
Sent: Monday,
December 10, 2001 11:12 AM
To: Ian Marks; Team3s
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Labor charges for water pump
At 08:46 AM 12/10/01 -0800, you
wrote:
>Hey all,
> The water pump's shot on my '94 RT
TT. My Chrysler warranty covers
the
>water pump (nice). Should I expect
the labor charges to change the
timing
>belt to be zero (piggybacked on
the water pump R&R) because the timing
belt
>has to be removed to
replace the pump anyway right?
Yes! It says so right in the shop manual
that Satan uses, because
coolant
rots out timing belts. Make sure they
look it up and agree with you,
though. My Mitsu dealer changed mine under
warranty cuz the water pump
went
out. Be sure to get the tensioners
changed, even if you have to pay for
it.
Rich/slow old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:33:36
-0800
From: Ian Marks <
ianmarks@2xtreme.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: re:team3s: labor charges for water pump
Thanks for the
affirmation Rich, Armin, Cody,
I'm not ambitious enough to
do the work myself right now so I'm going to
have a dealer do it. I actually
had a service 'manager' (Hustler) try to
tell me that it would be an extra
7hrs labor on top of the pump change to
swap the belt - that there was no
overlap on the labor!. Do these idiots
think everyone is as much a moron as
they are?
Alhambra Chrysler is an agent of Satan!
- ---------
Ian
Marks
CFI
'94 RT TT
> From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 11:11:41 -0600
> To: Ian Marks <
ianmarks@2xtreme.net>, Team3s <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Labor charges for water pump
>
> Yes! It says
so right in the shop manual that Satan uses, because coolant
> rots out
timing belts. Make sure they look it up and agree with you,
> though. My
Mitsu dealer changed mine under warranty cuz the water pump went
> out. Be
sure to get the tensioners changed, even if you have to pay for it.
>
> Rich/slow old poop
> From: ARMIN MEIER <
guetch@shaw.ca>
> Date: Mon, 10 Dec
2001 09:04:12 -0800
> To: STEALTH <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Subject: Team3S: re:team3s: labor charges for water pump
>
>
Ian,
>
> Yes you are right the belt has to come off anyway.
>
But to remove it totally the crank damper and positioning sensor shield
have
> to come off also.
> As I remember(the pump was done under
warranty) he would have charged an
> extra 2 hrs for the belt
change.
> So, I did it my self.
> Make certain they retighten the
tensioner back to the pin hole!!
>
> Good luck
>
>
Armin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:26:14
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Labor charges for water pump
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
> Yes,
even resetting the tensioner is not really good enough in my book...
Make
sure they use a new one. They are cheap insurance.
>
-Cody
From: "Ian Marks" <
ianmarks@2xtreme.net>
-
--snip-----
> Alhambra Chrysler is an agent of Satan!
-
------------------------>
Ian--
One additional suggestion -
since Dodge dealers don't have to do a lot of
these, you might want to print
out the 60k write-up from our website
(
www.Team3S.com/60k.htm) , and bring it
with you as a checklist. The extra
parts and prices are listed, and
they'll give you an idea of the additional
costs. While the techs are
in there, you want them to do the whole 60k, new
tensioner, etc., dealie
while they are doing the pump. Like Cody said, it's
cheap insurance to
get it all done for the price of a few parts and
(theoretically) an hour or
two additional labor.
The 'hustler" service managers are out there, but
make sure he/she knows
that there are several hundred Team3S members waiting
to hear of your
experience. And that we'll make sure that thousands
more owners who read
our website (~220,000 hits last month!) will know if
Alhambra Chrysler falls
into the "good guys" dealer category or not...
;-) Good luck!
- --Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 20:12:15
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Drag racing (was Road Racing)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff
Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, October 31, 2001 10:07 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Drag racing (was
Road Racing)
>Funny. My impression has been that 18G cars run slower
than 15G cars
>in the 1/4 mile. :)
>
>Does anyone have proof
otherwise? In fact, has any member beat the
>times below with 16G, 18G,
18T, 357, 368, 399, or 20G turbos? (Note I
>left out Jack's faster run
with 17Gs.)
>
>An example with 15G turbos: 11.303 @ 122.54 mph and
11.387 s @ 125.76
>by our own Jack T. (aka xwing).
>
>Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.comYes -
as a matter fact it has happened. With 368 turbos!
How about 10.96
sec @ 129.96 mph with no NOS at 3600 ft elevation?!
Or 10.88 @ 129.196
mph with NOS?!
With 368 turbos ..... (those are bigger than 15g
turbos)
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=a3c4bfa8753f620668812a814c717ad3&threadid=57070
Videos
should be out soon.
can't go faster than 15g's my ass ........
- -
tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 21:24:32
-0500
From: "Brian Collins" <
bcturbo@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Setting Basic Ignition Timing with UDP
I have been having some
problems setting the basic ignition timing on my 92
Stealth TT with
underdrive pulley. I put a chalk mark on the little notches
that are
outside of the pulley and followed all the instructions in the
service manual
except for the part about using a tachometer. My idle speed
is around
700 rpm. When I grounded the ignition timing adjustment terminal,
the
idle speed dropped by about 100-150 rpm. I read the timing to be
about
15-20 degrees BTDC and it seems to jump around by several
degrees. I had to
turn the CAS counterclockwise almost all the way to
get the timing to around
5 degrees. When I did that the engine kept
dying and the exhaust began to
stink I ended up setting the CAS back to
near where it was so the car
wouldn't run crappy. Any thoughts or
suggestions?
Brian Collins
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 15:39:29
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE:ECU Problem
> Hey
Guys,
>
> My car has 156,000 miles on it and runs
ok. The ECU went bad about a
> month ago, so I ordred one from ECU
specialist
Specialist --joke
and installed it. Once
>
installed the check engine light had came on.
As I've posted before you
should always get the original rebuilt otherwise
you'll have no end of
problems unless the replacement has identical part
numbers.
Check the
part numbers on it.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 22:24:35
-0500
From: "Shane Swan" <
kaiou_182@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Speedomoter
Hello,
Well i recieved my speedomoter cable
today, and before i install it I would
like some tips.
unfortunately i dont have a service manual, so if you could
please help me
out.
To me it looks fairly easy, just the matter of taking out the old
one and
putting in the new one. but i may be wrong.
Thank
you,
Shane Swan
92' Stealth ES
Kaiou_182@hotmail.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 06:59:25
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Drag racing (was Road Racing)
Those of you that have followed
my comments, such as below, here and
on 3SI know I have repeatedly and
mercilessly taunted owners of
turbos larger than 15G and 17G size about not
breaking 1/4 mile
records of owners with cars with 15G and 17G-sized turbos.
Well ONE
person out of perhaps dozens of owners has finally done it.
Those
that saw the initial post on 3SI know I was on the first page
to
congratulate Matt Monett for his great runs and proving me "wrong".
For
those of you that do not know of Matt Monett and his shop Dynamic
Racing, you
should spend a little time at his web site and on 3SI
looking at his
posts.
I have NEVER said it could not be done, and in many posts
I
encouraged owners to "shut me up". But the facts still stand. Only
ONE
owner, who also happens to be a *superb* 1/4 mile racer, has
figured out how
to make one car with 368 turbos a few tenths of a
second faster than the many
"15G and 17G" turbo'd cars out there.
Uh, did I miss the TD05 16G/18G/20G
car that went faster than TD04
15G/17G cars?
Todd,
I believe you
have 368 turbos on your car. You are also one of the
quicker 1/4 mile drag
racers in our group. Perhaps you would share
your results with us of racing
your car with "little" and "big"
turbos. How about the other Team3S members
with big turbos and drag
racing experience?
Oh and before anyone
"asks", I am a horrible drag racer (as
previously admitted) never going
faster than 14 seconds! :) I have
consistent 2.2 60' times and take 0.5-1.0
second to shift (when I
don't miss the shift entirely). Both traits dooming
me to "slow" 1/4
miles but intact drivetrains. But I do have fun (see ya at
Norwalk
next year)!
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, December 10, 2001 7:12 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Drag racing (was Road
Racing)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, October 31, 2001 10:07 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Drag racing (was
Road Racing)
>Funny. My impression has been that 18G cars run slower
than 15G cars
>in the 1/4 mile. :)
>
>Does anyone have proof
otherwise? In fact, has any member beat the
>times below with 16G, 18G,
18T, 357, 368, 399, or 20G turbos? (Note
I
>left out Jack's faster run
with 17Gs.)
>
>An example with 15G turbos: 11.303 @ 122.54 mph and
11.387 s @
125.76
>by our own Jack T. (aka xwing).
>
>Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.comYes -
as a matter fact it has happened. With 368 turbos!
How about 10.96 sec
@ 129.96 mph with no NOS at 3600 ft elevation?!
Or 10.88 @ 129.196 mph with
NOS?!
With 368 turbos ..... (those are bigger than 15g turbos)
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=a3c4bfa8753f620668812a814c717ad3&threadid=57070
Videos
should be out soon.
can't go faster than 15g's my ass ........
- -
tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#696
***************************************