Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Thursday, December 6 2001  Volume 01 : Number 692




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Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 10:30:14 -0500
From: MIHAI RAICU <mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved

Hello all,

If some of you remembered a few months back I was complaining
of hesitation/mis-fires in high RPM scenarios, and the higher
the gear (the longer I was putting the engine under heavy
load), the worse it got.  As a quick overview, I am running
the Apexi A-VCR @ 1 bar, stillen downpipe, and K&N airfilter,
with a tuneup done last year, and I usually use 94 Octane
gas.  For the record, here were the two solutions to my
problems:

1. 100 octane gas solved it; before the race gas, it
hesitated badly, after it, it was as smooth as new.

2. I cleaned the K&N after 14 months of use, about 17K miles,
and a sandstorm in Utah several months ago.  This solved it
just as good as the previous fix, except that it was
permanent. 

The moral is that if plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc... all
check out, don't overlook the air filter!!!

John Raicu
94 Yellow TT.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 11:01:16 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved

I usually clean the K&N between each track event, about every 2
months.

Chuck Willis

> 2. I cleaned the K&N after 14 months of use, about 17K miles,
> and a sandstorm in Utah several months ago.  This solved it
> just as good as the previous fix, except that it was
> permanent. 
>
> The moral is that if plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc... all
> check out, don't overlook the air filter!!!
>
>
> John Raicu
> 94 Yellow TT.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 09:29:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved

The K7N will work better dirty..actually.

On Wed, 5 Dec 2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:

> I usually clean the K&N between each track event, about every 2
> months.
>
> Chuck Willis
> > 
> > 2. I cleaned the K&N after 14 months of use, about 17K miles,
> > and a sandstorm in Utah several months ago.  This solved it
> > just as good as the previous fix, except that it was
> > permanent. 
> >
> > The moral is that if plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc... all
> > check out, don't overlook the air filter!!!
> >
> >
> > John Raicu
> > 94 Yellow TT.

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 11:12:28 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved

> The K7N will work better dirty..actually.

...to a point.  After a winter of road salt and sand getting into the K&N on
my Eclipse it slowed the car down a good second in the 1/4 mile.  Cleaning
the filter woke it right back up.  It'll work better at filtering, but
performance will start to suffer if it gets dirty enough.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 09:32:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved

Well, dirty to a point.

Just I think cleaning every other event (assuming every 2-3 months) is
excessive when looking at fil;tration properties.

On Wed, 5 Dec 2001, Jannusch, Matt wrote:

> > The K7N will work better dirty..actually.
>
> ...to a point.  After a winter of road salt and sand getting into the K&N on
> my Eclipse it slowed the car down a good second in the 1/4 mile.  Cleaning
> the filter woke it right back up.  It'll work better at filtering, but
> performance will start to suffer if it gets dirty enough.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 11:15:24 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved

I just cannot believe that - depends on your definition of "work better".
If dirty means it has a higher pressure drop, then the dirt buildup is
defeating the purpose of the K&N.  If dirty means there are particles stuck
on the interspersed fiber that prevent other particles from getting into the
intake, maybe, but isn't that what the oily fiber is supposed to do anyhow?

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 11:29 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved
>
> The K7N will work better dirty..actually.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 11:16:29 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved

that's okay, y'all all want to buy my waste oil, too!

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 11:33 AM
> To: Jannusch, Matt
> Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved
>
> Well, dirty to a point.
>
> Just I think cleaning every other event (assuming every 2-3 months) is
> excessive when looking at fil;tration properties.
>
> On Wed, 5 Dec 2001, Jannusch, Matt wrote:
>
> > > The K7N will work better dirty..actually.
> >
> > ...to a point.  After a winter of road salt and sand getting into the
> K&N on
> > my Eclipse it slowed the car down a good second in the 1/4 mile.
> Cleaning
> > the filter woke it right back up.  It'll work better at filtering, but
> > performance will start to suffer if it gets dirty enough.
> >
> > -Matt
> > '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> ---
> Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 11:17:14 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved

> Well, dirty to a point.
>
> Just I think cleaning every other event (assuming every 2-3
> months) is excessive when looking at fil;tration properties.

Yeah, I agree that cleaning that often is probably excessive.  On the box of
my K&N it said that it only needed to be cleaned every 50,000 miles for best
performance.  I found out otherwise.  Maybe if you drive somewhere where
there is no dust or pollen you can clean it every 50,000.  I think maybe
more along the lines of every 15,000 or once a year is a good point to clean
them.  Enough gunk comes out at that point where its probably worthwhile.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 12:38:16 EST
From: Nxtkin@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Factory Alarm Problems 91 Stealth R/T NT

I live in the Phoenix, Arizona area and have encountered a problem with my
1991
Stealth's factory alarm system. I usually park in a covered parking space at
work
during the day but about noon the sun hits the front part of the car and
triggers the alarm. I resolved the problem by parking in such a matter that
the sun doesn't hit the front. However, the alarm is now being triggered by
the heat of the engine. Have you heard of this occurring on any other
vehicles? If so, what is the necessary repair? Your help in this matter
would be greatly appreciated.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 13:01:18 EST
From: Nxtkin@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Unsolicited Triggering of Factory Alarm System - 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T NT

I live in the Phoenix, Arizona area and have encountered a problem with my
1991 Stealth's factory alarm system. I read through several pages of the FAQ
and found some similar issues/resolutions but none that are a result of heat
relating to triggering of the alarm system. I usually park in a covered
parking space at
work during the day but about noon the sun hits the front part of the car and
triggers the alarm. I resolved the problem by parking in such a matter that
the sun doesn't hit the front but it doesn't help me when I want to set the
alarm elsewhere (grocery store, mall, etc). The alarm is triggered by the
heat of the engine even at night. Has anyone had identical problems? If so,
what was done to correct the problem? Any help in this matter would be
greatly appreciated.

Bill Hollifield
1991 Stealth R/T NT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 12:06:59 -0600
From: "Curt Gendron" <cgendron@mail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Factory Alarm Problems 91 Stealth R/T NT

This is a fairly common problem.  Usually the hood sensor moves just enough to set off the alarm.  Look under the hood for a rubber boot thing near the air box on the passenger side of the engine bay.  Its on a metal bracket.  You can bend the bracket up a little.  By doing this, the sensor switch will get depressed farther down when the hood closes.  If this doesn't do it, you'll probably have to replace the sensor switch.

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org

- -----Original Message-----
From: Nxtkin@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 12:38:16 EST
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Factory Alarm Problems 91 Stealth R/T NT


> I live in the Phoenix, Arizona area and have encountered a problem with my
> 1991
> Stealth's factory alarm system. I usually park in a covered parking space at
> work
> during the day but about noon the sun hits the front part of the car and
> triggers the alarm. I resolved the problem by parking in such a matter that
> the sun doesn't hit the front. However, the alarm is now being triggered by
> the heat of the engine. Have you heard of this occurring on any other
> vehicles? If so, what is the necessary repair? Your help in this matter
> would be greatly appreciated.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 17:18:52 -0600
From: RJM <rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt losing radiator fluid but still driving it

Guys,
I hope you can help me quickly as this is my daily driver and tomorrow
it's back to the 62mi  to work and back.  I can take the other car if
necessary so what do you think?:  1994  3000gt SL with 97,000 miles and
original water pump.  I have been periodically having to add antifreeze
and water to it for about maybe the last 5,000 miles but didn't think
much of it until it has been more and more frequently that the
low-on-radiator-fluid light has been intermittently coming on and off
(usually on hills), now about every day.  So, the problem is getting
worse.  Today I saw that only the fan kicking on high is keeping it from
possibly reaching critical temperatures as it was very hot on the
thermostat guage after I parked for 3 min. and then started the car, but
it quickly went a bit above normal as the car started and fan went on.
I drove it home and popped the hood and noticed the green dripping
(first time I could see any dripping, I added a whole quart maybe day
before yesterday but noticed no leaks ever until now) IS COMING FROM THE
LITTLE TUBE BY THE RADIATOR DRAIN VALVE.   Does that mean I am putting
too much fluid in and it is throwing it out?  I'm thinking not as isn't
that what the clear plastic overfill container and hose is for?  I've
been adding the fluid to the overfill container and more recently to the
radiator (cap) too (radiator was full until about a week ago).  When I
popped the hood this last time after shutting the car off I heard what
seemed to be hissing at the radiator cap but I think it might have been
the antifreeze/water still boiling below the cap??????   Any help would
be most appreciated.  The hoses look fine from what I can tell.   I
replaced the radiator thermostat at 55,000 miles when the thermostat was
showing critical heat conditions (no radiator fluid loss then).   What
would be causing this and how would fluid come out of the lower drain
valve tube?  I tightened the valve by hand which was dry but it didn't
tighten very much.  Help please and thank you very much.
Bob

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 17:33:46 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt losing radiator fluid but still driving it

Bob:
A good rule of thumb is: If it's leaking water, and you can't spot any
external cause for it -- hoses, clamps, connections, etc. -- then it's a
water pump. Satan can run a pressure check to tell for sure, but it sure
sounds like a water pump. This also means you have to change the timing
belt, because coolant ruins timing belts.

Rich/slow old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 17:47:28 -0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt losing radiator fluid but still driving it

You can also tell if it's the water pump by what side of the car it's
leaking on.  If it's leaking on the driver's side (around the oil filter,
etc) it's the water pump because it's about the only thing that can leak
coolant on that side.
Christopher

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: "RJM" <rjmsmail@swbell.net>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt losing radiator fluid but still driving it

> Bob:
> A good rule of thumb is: If it's leaking water, and you can't spot any
> external cause for it -- hoses, clamps, connections, etc. -- then it's a
> water pump. Satan can run a pressure check to tell for sure, but it sure
> sounds like a water pump. This also means you have to change the timing
> belt, because coolant ruins timing belts.
>
> Rich/slow old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 19:36:42 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3000gt losing radiator fluid but still driving it

Buy a new cap(cheap) if you haven't lately.
Clean the filler neck completely, top and bottom seal areas, before reinstall.
You may want to try a tighten the lower hose clamps, just in case it is leaking and flowing down the tube to where you are detecting it. I think the drain plug has an oring, if so replace it.

Check the online manuals mentioned in these lists if you don't have one.
 
Kurt

- -----Original Message-----
From: RJM [mailto:rjmsmail@swbell.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 3:19 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt losing radiator fluid but still driving it

Guys,
I hope you can help me quickly as this is my daily driver and tomorrow
it's back to the 62mi  to work and back.  I can take the other car if
necessary so what do you think?:  1994  3000gt SL with 97,000 miles and
original water pump.  I have been periodically having to add antifreeze
and water to it for about maybe the last 5,000 miles but didn't think
much of it until it has been more and more frequently that the
low-on-radiator-fluid light has been intermittently coming on and off
(usually on hills), now about every day.  So, the problem is getting
worse.  Today I saw that only the fan kicking on high is keeping it from
possibly reaching critical temperatures as it was very hot on the
thermostat guage after I parked for 3 min. and then started the car, but
it quickly went a bit above normal as the car started and fan went on.
I drove it home and popped the hood and noticed the green dripping
(first time I could see any dripping, I added a whole quart maybe day
before yesterday but noticed no leaks ever until now) IS COMING FROM THE
LITTLE TUBE BY THE RADIATOR DRAIN VALVE.   Does that mean I am putting
too much fluid in and it is throwing it out?  I'm thinking not as isn't
that what the clear plastic overfill container and hose is for?  I've
been adding the fluid to the overfill container and more recently to the
radiator (cap) too (radiator was full until about a week ago).  When I
popped the hood this last time after shutting the car off I heard what
seemed to be hissing at the radiator cap but I think it might have been
the antifreeze/water still boiling below the cap??????   Any help would
be most appreciated.  The hoses look fine from what I can tell.   I
replaced the radiator thermostat at 55,000 miles when the thermostat was
showing critical heat conditions (no radiator fluid loss then).   What
would be causing this and how would fluid come out of the lower drain
valve tube?  I tightened the valve by hand which was dry but it didn't
tighten very much.  Help please and thank you very much.
Bob

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 19:53:01 EST
From: Nxtkin@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Unsolicited Triggering of Factory Alarm System - 1991 Dodge  Stea...

My thanks to all who responded to my inquiry. I bent the mounting bracket of
the front sensor up toward the hood to make sure the sensor engaged properly
when the hood was closed. I believe that it took care of the problem. I took
it out for a drive and then left it out in the sun all day and my alarm
didn't trigger once.

bill hollifield

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 21:21:00 EST
From: RANDYGGG@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Crank angle sensor for '91

    Does anyone have for sale a used crank angle sensor for a '91 Stealth ES,
5 spd, DOHC?  Or do you know where I can get one?  (Since I'm not 100%
positive that's the problem, I don't want to invest in a new one.)
Thanks,
Randy G.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 21:30:10 -0600
From: RJM <rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3000gt losing radiator fluid but still driving it

Thanks guys, I am going to just have the Dealer check it out as it most
likely is the water pump since it IS leaking somewhere on the driver's
side.  My understanding is they will replace the timing chain too and I
should make sure they replace the tensioner too.  They are a reputable
dealer and I actually semi-trust them.   Probably going to cost $600-$700 I
am thinking since the timing chain at 55,000 miles was about $500.  I am
thinking THE MITSUBISHI STOCK WATER PUMP IS THE BEST/SAFEST WAY TO GO, I
hope I am not wrong and it is not too expensive.   Thanks again.   Bob

RJM wrote:

> Guys,
> I hope you can help me quickly as this is my daily driver and tomorrow
> it's back to the 62mi  to work and back.  I can take the other car if
> necessary so what do you think?:  1994  3000gt SL with 97,000 miles and
> original water pump.  I have been periodically having to add antifreeze
> and water to it for about maybe the last 5,000 miles but didn't think
> much of it until it has been more and more frequently that the
> low-on-radiator-fluid light has been intermittently coming on and off
> (usually on hills), now about every day.  So, the problem is getting
> worse.  Today I saw that only the fan kicking on high is keeping it from
> possibly reaching critical temperatures as it was very hot on the
> thermostat guage after I parked for 3 min. and then started the car, but
> it quickly went a bit above normal as the car started and fan went on.
> I drove it home and popped the hood and noticed the green dripping
> (first time I could see any dripping, I added a whole quart maybe day
> before yesterday but noticed no leaks ever until now) IS COMING FROM THE
> LITTLE TUBE BY THE RADIATOR DRAIN VALVE.   Does that mean I am putting
> too much fluid in and it is throwing it out?  I'm thinking not as isn't
> that what the clear plastic overfill container and hose is for?  I've
> been adding the fluid to the overfill container and more recently to the
> radiator (cap) too (radiator was full until about a week ago).  When I
> popped the hood this last time after shutting the car off I heard what
> seemed to be hissing at the radiator cap but I think it might have been
> the antifreeze/water still boiling below the cap??????   Any help would
> be most appreciated.  The hoses look fine from what I can tell.   I
> replaced the radiator thermostat at 55,000 miles when the thermostat was
> showing critical heat conditions (no radiator fluid loss then).   What
> would be causing this and how would fluid come out of the lower drain
> valve tube?  I tightened the valve by hand which was dry but it didn't
> tighten very much.  Help please and thank you very much.
> Bob

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 20:23:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3000gt losing radiator fluid but still driving it

Bob,
  I hate to be the bearer of possibly bad news. GET
THAT CAR TO SATAN ASAP. !!! I had a similar symptom
and after water pump install and what not .... I had
low compression in 2 cylinders and a definite blown
head gasket. Make sure the dealer do compression
testing to make sure all that "HOT" running did not do
any weird thing to your heads.
  I hate to say it .. but I shoulda known better but
... I hope you were lucky enough to catch it in time.
As with most members here say ... change the belt and
water pump and the FULL 60K service RELIGIOUSLY if you
want to keep your car from dying a slow and painful
death.
  My brother's 92 VR-4 had most of the service
including the FULL 60K service done religiously and
his car runs fine even at 123K miles. He was the
original and only owners of the car.  Alas ... mine
was a "3rd Owner Hand-Me-Down" of sorts. :( Guess the
previous owners were not too religious on maintenance :/

=====
- -Frank-
                                    "JEEPers"
     EMERGENCY EMAIL: <2017479867@mobile.att.net>
     http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 06 Dec 2001 01:27:36 -0500
From: Romachka21@netscape.net (Roman)
Subject: RE: Team3S: 1st gen CAS on 2nd gen engine

That is a good price if the engine comes assambled where are you getting these prices?

I have a 94 VR4 with a blow engine I will need to replace the block with 60K service parts as well. Altered Atmosphere in Rockville MD wants 7k-8k for a new block and rebuild heads. I want to see if I can get something in the 7k range but I wanted a race preped motor.

Thanks in advance.

Roman G. 94 VR-4
"Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com> wrote:

>I know a few folks have been waiting to hear the results on this topic!!
>
>A few weeks ago, I posted that I was considering installing a 2nd gen engine
>in my '91 VR4.  I had inquired if it was possible to install a 1st gen Crank
>(cam ??) Angle Sensor on the 2nd gen engine so I could plug into my current
>harness and ECU.
>
>Well, I finally spoke to Brian at GT Pro and, it's no surprise, he had the
>answer.  You CAN install a 1st gen CAS on a 2nd gen engine, BUT you also
>have to install 1st gen camshafts.  The 1st gen right-bank intake cam has
>the appropriate "notch" to mate with and drive the 1st gen CAS.  He said it
>is easy to swap the cams.  (Note that the 2nd gen cams do have a little
>better "grind" though).
>
>So, folks with a blown 1st gen engine (like me ;)) have a few options to
>upgrade to the 2nd gen engine.  For about the same money, I can buy a used
>JSpec 2nd gen motor (Nippon Motors), OR a new 2nd gen short-block, oil pan,
>& oil pump (from Norco Mitsu).  If my heads check out okay, I'll will
>probably go with the later.  Both options price in at about $3,500-$3,600
>when you include all the parts for a 60K service.
>
>Cheers!
>Ken
- --

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 07:54:16 -0500
From: "Mannah, Zinnah" <ZMANNAH@imf.org>
Subject: Team3S: Where is the Crankshaft position sensor located on the stealth??

Can someone please tell me where on my 91 stealth RT TT I can find the
Crankshaft Sensor??? I really need to replace this part.

Zee Mannah

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 12:04:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Where is the Crankshaft position sensor located on the stealth??

Your service manual (you do have one right?) shows you where this and
every sensor is. Also, pic of it on my web page below.

http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-oilpresloc.htm

How could you know you need to replace this part if you don't know
what it is or where it is, meaning you have not tested it?

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mannah, Zinnah" <ZMANNAH@imf.org>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 5:54 AM
Subject: Team3S: Where is the Crankshaft position sensor located on
the stealth??

Can someone please tell me where on my 91 stealth RT TT I can find
the
Crankshaft Sensor??? I really need to replace this part.

Zee Mannah

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #692
***************************************