Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, December 6 2001
Volume 01 : Number
692
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 5 Dec 2001 10:30:14 -0500
From: MIHAI RAICU <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: high
RPM hesitation problems solved
Hello all,
If some of you
remembered a few months back I was complaining
of hesitation/mis-fires in
high RPM scenarios, and the higher
the gear (the longer I was putting the
engine under heavy
load), the worse it got. As a quick overview, I am
running
the Apexi A-VCR @ 1 bar, stillen downpipe, and K&N airfilter,
with a tuneup done last year, and I usually use 94 Octane
gas. For
the record, here were the two solutions to my
problems:
1. 100 octane
gas solved it; before the race gas, it
hesitated badly, after it, it was as
smooth as new.
2. I cleaned the K&N after 14 months of use, about 17K
miles,
and a sandstorm in Utah several months ago. This solved it
just as good as the previous fix, except that it was
permanent.
The moral is that if plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc... all
check
out, don't overlook the air filter!!!
John Raicu
94 Yellow
TT.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 11:01:16
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved
I usually clean the
K&N between each track event, about every 2
months.
Chuck
Willis
>
> 2. I cleaned the K&N after 14 months of use,
about 17K miles,
> and a sandstorm in Utah several months ago. This
solved it
> just as good as the previous fix, except that it was
>
permanent.
>
> The moral is that if plugs, wires, fuel
filter, etc... all
> check out, don't overlook the air filter!!!
>
>
> John Raicu
> 94 Yellow TT.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 09:29:28
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved
The K7N will work better
dirty..actually.
On Wed, 5 Dec 2001, Willis, Charles E.
wrote:
> I usually clean the K&N between each track event, about
every 2
> months.
>
> Chuck Willis
> >
> > 2. I cleaned the K&N after 14 months of use, about 17K miles,
> > and a sandstorm in Utah several months ago. This solved it
> > just as good as the previous fix, except that it was
> >
permanent.
> >
> > The moral is that if plugs, wires,
fuel filter, etc... all
> > check out, don't overlook the air
filter!!!
> >
> >
> > John Raicu
> > 94
Yellow TT.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 11:12:28
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved
> The K7N will work
better dirty..actually.
...to a point. After a winter of road salt
and sand getting into the K&N on
my Eclipse it slowed the car down a good
second in the 1/4 mile. Cleaning
the filter woke it right back
up. It'll work better at filtering, but
performance will start to
suffer if it gets dirty enough.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 09:32:58
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved
Well, dirty to a
point.
Just I think cleaning every other event (assuming every 2-3
months) is
excessive when looking at fil;tration properties.
On Wed, 5
Dec 2001, Jannusch, Matt wrote:
> > The K7N will work better
dirty..actually.
>
> ...to a point. After a winter of road
salt and sand getting into the K&N on
> my Eclipse it slowed the car
down a good second in the 1/4 mile. Cleaning
> the filter woke it
right back up. It'll work better at filtering, but
> performance
will start to suffer if it gets dirty enough.
>
> -Matt
> '95
3000GT Spyder VR4
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 11:15:24
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved
I just cannot believe
that - depends on your definition of "work better".
If dirty means it has a
higher pressure drop, then the dirt buildup is
defeating the purpose of the
K&N. If dirty means there are particles stuck
on the interspersed
fiber that prevent other particles from getting into the
intake, maybe, but
isn't that what the oily fiber is supposed to do
anyhow?
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff
Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 05,
2001 11:29 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved
>
> The
K7N will work better dirty..actually.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 11:16:29
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved
that's okay, y'all all
want to buy my waste oil, too!
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001
11:33 AM
> To: Jannusch, Matt
> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved
>
> Well,
dirty to a point.
>
> Just I think cleaning every other event
(assuming every 2-3 months) is
> excessive when looking at fil;tration
properties.
>
> On Wed, 5 Dec 2001, Jannusch, Matt wrote:
>
> > > The K7N will work better dirty..actually.
> >
> > ...to a point. After a winter of road salt and sand getting
into the
> K&N on
> > my Eclipse it slowed the car down a
good second in the 1/4 mile.
> Cleaning
> > the filter woke it
right back up. It'll work better at filtering, but
> >
performance will start to suffer if it gets dirty enough.
> >
>
> -Matt
> > '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> ---
> Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 11:17:14
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: high RPM hesitation problems solved
> Well, dirty to a
point.
>
> Just I think cleaning every other event (assuming every
2-3
> months) is excessive when looking at fil;tration
properties.
Yeah, I agree that cleaning that often is probably
excessive. On the box of
my K&N it said that it only needed to be
cleaned every 50,000 miles for best
performance. I found out
otherwise. Maybe if you drive somewhere where
there is no dust or
pollen you can clean it every 50,000. I think maybe
more along the
lines of every 15,000 or once a year is a good point to clean
them.
Enough gunk comes out at that point where its probably worthwhile.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 12:38:16
EST
From:
Nxtkin@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Factory Alarm Problems 91 Stealth R/T NT
I live in the Phoenix,
Arizona area and have encountered a problem with my
1991
Stealth's
factory alarm system. I usually park in a covered parking space at
work
during the day but about noon the sun hits the front part of the car
and
triggers the alarm. I resolved the problem by parking in such a matter
that
the sun doesn't hit the front. However, the alarm is now being triggered
by
the heat of the engine. Have you heard of this occurring on any
other
vehicles? If so, what is the necessary repair? Your help in this
matter
would be greatly appreciated.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 13:01:18
EST
From:
Nxtkin@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Unsolicited Triggering of Factory Alarm System - 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T
NT
I live in the Phoenix, Arizona area and have encountered a problem
with my
1991 Stealth's factory alarm system. I read through several pages of
the FAQ
and found some similar issues/resolutions but none that are a result
of heat
relating to triggering of the alarm system. I usually park in a
covered
parking space at
work during the day but about noon the sun hits
the front part of the car and
triggers the alarm. I resolved the problem by
parking in such a matter that
the sun doesn't hit the front but it doesn't
help me when I want to set the
alarm elsewhere (grocery store, mall, etc).
The alarm is triggered by the
heat of the engine even at night. Has anyone
had identical problems? If so,
what was done to correct the problem? Any
help in this matter would be
greatly appreciated.
Bill
Hollifield
1991 Stealth R/T NT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 12:06:59
-0600
From: "Curt Gendron" <
cgendron@mail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Factory Alarm Problems 91 Stealth R/T NT
This is a fairly common
problem. Usually the hood sensor moves just enough to set off the
alarm. Look under the hood for a rubber boot thing near the air box on the
passenger side of the engine bay. Its on a metal bracket. You can
bend the bracket up a little. By doing this, the sensor switch will get
depressed farther down when the hood closes. If this doesn't do it, you'll
probably have to replace the sensor switch.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org- -----Original
Message-----
From:
Nxtkin@aol.comDate: Wed, 5 Dec 2001
12:38:16 EST
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Factory Alarm Problems 91 Stealth R/T NT
> I live in the
Phoenix, Arizona area and have encountered a problem with my
>
1991
> Stealth's factory alarm system. I usually park in a covered parking
space at
> work
> during the day but about noon the sun hits the
front part of the car and
> triggers the alarm. I resolved the problem by
parking in such a matter that
> the sun doesn't hit the front. However,
the alarm is now being triggered by
> the heat of the engine. Have you
heard of this occurring on any other
> vehicles? If so, what is the
necessary repair? Your help in this matter
> would be greatly
appreciated.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 17:18:52
-0600
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 3000gt losing radiator fluid but still driving it
Guys,
I hope
you can help me quickly as this is my daily driver and tomorrow
it's back to
the 62mi to work and back. I can take the other car if
necessary
so what do you think?: 1994 3000gt SL with 97,000 miles
and
original water pump. I have been periodically having to add
antifreeze
and water to it for about maybe the last 5,000 miles but didn't
think
much of it until it has been more and more frequently that
the
low-on-radiator-fluid light has been intermittently coming on and
off
(usually on hills), now about every day. So, the problem is
getting
worse. Today I saw that only the fan kicking on high is keeping
it from
possibly reaching critical temperatures as it was very hot on
the
thermostat guage after I parked for 3 min. and then started the car,
but
it quickly went a bit above normal as the car started and fan went
on.
I drove it home and popped the hood and noticed the green
dripping
(first time I could see any dripping, I added a whole quart maybe
day
before yesterday but noticed no leaks ever until now) IS COMING FROM
THE
LITTLE TUBE BY THE RADIATOR DRAIN VALVE. Does that mean I am
putting
too much fluid in and it is throwing it out? I'm thinking not
as isn't
that what the clear plastic overfill container and hose is
for? I've
been adding the fluid to the overfill container and more
recently to the
radiator (cap) too (radiator was full until about a week
ago). When I
popped the hood this last time after shutting the car off
I heard what
seemed to be hissing at the radiator cap but I think it might
have been
the antifreeze/water still boiling below the cap??????
Any help would
be most appreciated. The hoses look fine from what I can
tell. I
replaced the radiator thermostat at 55,000 miles when the
thermostat was
showing critical heat conditions (no radiator fluid loss
then). What
would be causing this and how would fluid come out of
the lower drain
valve tube? I tightened the valve by hand which was dry
but it didn't
tighten very much. Help please and thank you very
much.
Bob
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 17:33:46
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3000gt losing radiator fluid but still driving it
Bob:
A
good rule of thumb is: If it's leaking water, and you can't spot any
external
cause for it -- hoses, clamps, connections, etc. -- then it's a
water pump.
Satan can run a pressure check to tell for sure, but it sure
sounds like a
water pump. This also means you have to change the timing
belt, because
coolant ruins timing belts.
Rich/slow old poop
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 17:47:28
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3000gt losing radiator fluid but still driving it
You can
also tell if it's the water pump by what side of the car it's
leaking
on. If it's leaking on the driver's side (around the oil filter,
etc)
it's the water pump because it's about the only thing that can leak
coolant
on that side.
Christopher
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"RJM" <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, December 05, 2001 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt losing
radiator fluid but still driving it
> Bob:
> A good rule of
thumb is: If it's leaking water, and you can't spot any
> external cause
for it -- hoses, clamps, connections, etc. -- then it's a
> water pump.
Satan can run a pressure check to tell for sure, but it sure
> sounds like
a water pump. This also means you have to change the timing
> belt,
because coolant ruins timing belts.
>
> Rich/slow old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 19:36:42
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3000gt losing radiator fluid but still driving it
Buy a new
cap(cheap) if you haven't lately.
Clean the filler neck completely, top and
bottom seal areas, before reinstall.
You may want to try a tighten the lower
hose clamps, just in case it is leaking and flowing down the tube to where you
are detecting it. I think the drain plug has an oring, if so replace
it.
Check the online manuals mentioned in these lists if you don't have
one.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: RJM
[mailto:rjmsmail@swbell.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 3:19
PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: 3000gt losing radiator fluid but still driving it
Guys,
I hope
you can help me quickly as this is my daily driver and tomorrow
it's back to
the 62mi to work and back. I can take the other car if
necessary
so what do you think?: 1994 3000gt SL with 97,000 miles
and
original water pump. I have been periodically having to add
antifreeze
and water to it for about maybe the last 5,000 miles but didn't
think
much of it until it has been more and more frequently that
the
low-on-radiator-fluid light has been intermittently coming on and
off
(usually on hills), now about every day. So, the problem is
getting
worse. Today I saw that only the fan kicking on high is keeping
it from
possibly reaching critical temperatures as it was very hot on
the
thermostat guage after I parked for 3 min. and then started the car,
but
it quickly went a bit above normal as the car started and fan went
on.
I drove it home and popped the hood and noticed the green
dripping
(first time I could see any dripping, I added a whole quart maybe
day
before yesterday but noticed no leaks ever until now) IS COMING FROM
THE
LITTLE TUBE BY THE RADIATOR DRAIN VALVE. Does that mean I am
putting
too much fluid in and it is throwing it out? I'm thinking not
as isn't
that what the clear plastic overfill container and hose is
for? I've
been adding the fluid to the overfill container and more
recently to the
radiator (cap) too (radiator was full until about a week
ago). When I
popped the hood this last time after shutting the car off
I heard what
seemed to be hissing at the radiator cap but I think it might
have been
the antifreeze/water still boiling below the cap??????
Any help would
be most appreciated. The hoses look fine from what I can
tell. I
replaced the radiator thermostat at 55,000 miles when the
thermostat was
showing critical heat conditions (no radiator fluid loss
then). What
would be causing this and how would fluid come out of
the lower drain
valve tube? I tightened the valve by hand which was dry
but it didn't
tighten very much. Help please and thank you very
much.
Bob
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 19:53:01
EST
From:
Nxtkin@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Unsolicited Triggering of Factory Alarm System - 1991 Dodge
Stea...
My thanks to all who responded to my inquiry. I bent the mounting
bracket of
the front sensor up toward the hood to make sure the sensor
engaged properly
when the hood was closed. I believe that it took care of
the problem. I took
it out for a drive and then left it out in the sun all
day and my alarm
didn't trigger once.
bill
hollifield
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 21:21:00
EST
From:
RANDYGGG@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Crank angle sensor for '91
Does anyone have
for sale a used crank angle sensor for a '91 Stealth ES,
5 spd, DOHC?
Or do you know where I can get one? (Since I'm not 100%
positive
that's the problem, I don't want to invest in a new one.)
Thanks,
Randy
G.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 21:30:10
-0600
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3000gt losing radiator fluid but still driving it
Thanks
guys, I am going to just have the Dealer check it out as it most
likely is
the water pump since it IS leaking somewhere on the driver's
side. My
understanding is they will replace the timing chain too and I
should make
sure they replace the tensioner too. They are a reputable
dealer and I
actually semi-trust them. Probably going to cost $600-$700 I
am
thinking since the timing chain at 55,000 miles was about $500. I
am
thinking THE MITSUBISHI STOCK WATER PUMP IS THE BEST/SAFEST WAY TO GO,
I
hope I am not wrong and it is not too expensive. Thanks
again. Bob
RJM wrote:
> Guys,
> I hope you
can help me quickly as this is my daily driver and tomorrow
> it's back to
the 62mi to work and back. I can take the other car if
>
necessary so what do you think?: 1994 3000gt SL with 97,000 miles
and
> original water pump. I have been periodically having to add
antifreeze
> and water to it for about maybe the last 5,000 miles but
didn't think
> much of it until it has been more and more frequently that
the
> low-on-radiator-fluid light has been intermittently coming on and
off
> (usually on hills), now about every day. So, the problem is
getting
> worse. Today I saw that only the fan kicking on high is
keeping it from
> possibly reaching critical temperatures as it was very
hot on the
> thermostat guage after I parked for 3 min. and then started
the car, but
> it quickly went a bit above normal as the car started and
fan went on.
> I drove it home and popped the hood and noticed the green
dripping
> (first time I could see any dripping, I added a whole quart
maybe day
> before yesterday but noticed no leaks ever until now) IS
COMING FROM THE
> LITTLE TUBE BY THE RADIATOR DRAIN VALVE.
Does that mean I am putting
> too much fluid in and it is throwing it
out? I'm thinking not as isn't
> that what the clear plastic
overfill container and hose is for? I've
> been adding the fluid to
the overfill container and more recently to the
> radiator (cap) too
(radiator was full until about a week ago). When I
> popped the hood
this last time after shutting the car off I heard what
> seemed to be
hissing at the radiator cap but I think it might have been
> the
antifreeze/water still boiling below the cap?????? Any help
would
> be most appreciated. The hoses look fine from what I can
tell. I
> replaced the radiator thermostat at 55,000 miles
when the thermostat was
> showing critical heat conditions (no radiator
fluid loss then). What
> would be causing this and how would
fluid come out of the lower drain
> valve tube? I tightened the
valve by hand which was dry but it didn't
> tighten very much. Help
please and thank you very much.
> Bob
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 20:23:58
-0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <
jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: 3000gt losing radiator fluid but still driving
it
Bob,
I hate to be the bearer of possibly bad news.
GET
THAT CAR TO SATAN ASAP. !!! I had a similar symptom
and after water
pump install and what not .... I had
low compression in 2 cylinders and a
definite blown
head gasket. Make sure the dealer do compression
testing to
make sure all that "HOT" running did not do
any weird thing to your heads.
I hate to say it .. but I shoulda known better but
... I hope you
were lucky enough to catch it in time.
As with most members here say ...
change the belt and
water pump and the FULL 60K service RELIGIOUSLY if
you
want to keep your car from dying a slow and painful
death.
My brother's 92 VR-4 had most of the service
including the FULL 60K service
done religiously and
his car runs fine even at 123K miles. He was
the
original and only owners of the car. Alas ... mine
was a "3rd
Owner Hand-Me-Down" of sorts. :( Guess the
previous owners were not too
religious on maintenance :/
=====
-
-Frank-
"JEEPers"
EMERGENCY EMAIL: <
2017479867@mobile.att.net>
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 06 Dec 2001 01:27:36
-0500
From:
Romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: RE: Team3S: 1st gen CAS on 2nd gen engine
That is a
good price if the engine comes assambled where are you getting these
prices?
I have a 94 VR4 with a blow engine I will need to replace the
block with 60K service parts as well. Altered Atmosphere in Rockville MD wants
7k-8k for a new block and rebuild heads. I want to see if I can get something in
the 7k range but I wanted a race preped motor.
Thanks in
advance.
Roman G. 94 VR-4
"Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
wrote:
>I know a few folks have been waiting to hear the results on
this topic!!
>
>A few weeks ago, I posted that I was considering
installing a 2nd gen engine
>in my '91 VR4. I had inquired if it was
possible to install a 1st gen Crank
>(cam ??) Angle Sensor on the 2nd gen
engine so I could plug into my current
>harness and
ECU.
>
>Well, I finally spoke to Brian at GT Pro and, it's no
surprise, he had the
>answer. You CAN install a 1st gen CAS on a 2nd
gen engine, BUT you also
>have to install 1st gen camshafts. The 1st
gen right-bank intake cam has
>the appropriate "notch" to mate with and
drive the 1st gen CAS. He said it
>is easy to swap the cams.
(Note that the 2nd gen cams do have a little
>better "grind"
though).
>
>So, folks with a blown 1st gen engine (like me ;)) have
a few options to
>upgrade to the 2nd gen engine. For about the same
money, I can buy a used
>JSpec 2nd gen motor (Nippon Motors), OR a new 2nd
gen short-block, oil pan,
>& oil pump (from Norco Mitsu). If my
heads check out okay, I'll will
>probably go with the later. Both
options price in at about $3,500-$3,600
>when you include all the parts
for a 60K service.
>
>Cheers!
>Ken
- --
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 07:54:16
-0500
From: "Mannah, Zinnah" <
ZMANNAH@imf.org>
Subject: Team3S: Where
is the Crankshaft position sensor located on the stealth??
Can someone
please tell me where on my 91 stealth RT TT I can find the
Crankshaft
Sensor??? I really need to replace this part.
Zee Mannah
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 12:04:36
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Where is the Crankshaft position sensor located on the
stealth??
Your service manual (you do have one right?) shows you where
this and
every sensor is. Also, pic of it on my web page below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-oilpresloc.htmHow
could you know you need to replace this part if you don't know
what it is or
where it is, meaning you have not tested it?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Mannah, Zinnah" <
ZMANNAH@imf.org>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, December 06, 2001 5:54 AM
Subject: Team3S: Where is the Crankshaft
position sensor located on
the stealth??
Can someone please tell me
where on my 91 stealth RT TT I can find
the
Crankshaft Sensor??? I really
need to replace this part.
Zee Mannah
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#692
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