Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, December 5 2001
Volume 01 : Number
691
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 Dec 2001 09:52:53 +0100
From: Henri Le Hir <
hlehir@lucent.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Indiglo Gauges
Calling all worldwide stations.
I'm desperately
trying to LOCATE a MANUFACTURER of Indiglo Gauges.
I gave up the idea to
find Indiglo gauges that would fit the EURO spec cars,
but I discovered that
I can pretty easily print custom templates.....so all
I need is to LOCATE a
Manufacturer, and get BLANK gauges.
If you have indiglo in your car, can
you please help me to locate WHO
actually MFG
them.
Best
Henri
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 04:46:33
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tires
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
> When I
bought my '93 Stealth ES used it had Goodyear GT4's slapped on it.
The treads
are kind of thin and it's time to switch. Since I don't plan to
winter drive
the Stealth what is recommended in the 245 size range?>>>
-
---------------------------
If you're using the stock 16" wheels, you
have many choices. Each of us
will have our own preferences, so your
best bet will be to absorb what we
all say and then make your own
evaluation. Look at the descriptions on Tire
Rack (they also have
numerous reviews for each tire they carry) and decide
which features you
want.
When I used 16" wheels (in fact I put them on again recently after
trashing
my 18"-ers), I liked Nitto. I hated the Goodyears the car came
with and put
on Nitto Extreme Performance 450s (newer model is 555).
They wear like iron
(300 rating) and handle beautifully. Quiet, too,
and great in wet weather.
After not using them for almost a year (and getting
spoiled by the handling
withYokos on 18" wheels), I had forgotten just how
very good the Nittos are,
having to drive in a storm this past weekend.
Mine were only 225 series,
but if you want a terrific, but inexpensive
V-rated tire, they'd be my #1
pick. My current preferences (for my 18"
wheels) are the Yoko AVS
Intermediates 265/35ZR, which I just got rid of - I
bought them used, put
15,000 miles on them plus 10 track weekends. They
got out of round from bad
rims after I hit a road hazard, but otherwise had
lots of life left. I was
intending to replace them with the Yoko AVS
Sport, but I read that they are
noisy. So I bought (came in today) a
set of Bridgestone Potenza S03 Pole
Position in 245/40ZR18 Y93. They
have a great reputation, and use new
technology which compensates for (all)
tires losing grip as the tread wears
down-- the compound gets stickier as you
wear down the tire. They'll
probably cost you $40 to $50 more than
Nittos (or similar) but worth it,
IMO. Not that you *need* a Y-rated
tire, but I like safety - so it's my
preference. Other members like the
Michelin MXX3 & Pilot XGT-Z4, Dunlop
SP9000, lots of others. Decide
what you're looking for and research those,
and compare on the Tire Rack
site.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 06:37:08
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECU problems, part II
> They're designed to last 7 years
from the factory, a rebuild
> will last another 7. In another 7
years all the other
> computers will be playing up and you won't want the
car.
Ooooh, almost 10 years on mine. Can't the Mitsu engineers
get
anything right? :)
Steve, You are joking right?
I admit
that when the ECM fails the caps are the prevelant cause. But
DESIGNED to
fail? Please.
Have even 5% of our Team3S membership experienced ECM
failure of any
type? One percent maybe? What would that be, 6 members?
With 0ver 112,000 3S cars made through the 1994 model year
(almost
75% of all production), any idea of how many of these have had
ECM
problems?
Any recalls or TSBs on the ECM?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, November 30, 2001 6:22 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECU problems, part
II
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 06:58:09
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hesitation
Brad,
If you do not already have service
manuals, get them.
Instead of just replacing items, test them first.
Though what you
have done so far are good things to do anyway on an older
car.
Fuel pressure can be measured with a factory instrument (see
the
manuals) or with an aftermarket sensor. One example below in
second
best location. Best location is just before FPR and after
last
injector.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-fp_install.htmThe
pump is tested by the owner basically by seeing if there is flow
and if
proper line pressure is maintained (off and on boost). The
pump can be
removed and tested by shops such as RC Engineering.
Fuel pump
R&R:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-fp_install.htmResults
of fuel pump testing:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius6/j6-2-fuelpumptests.htmFuel
pump upgrade guide:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-fuelpumpguide.htmTester
for intake track leaks:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius3/j3-2-pressuretester.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Younkman" <
byounkman@home.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, December 03, 2001 8:05 AM
Subject: Team3S:
Hesitation
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 09:03:48
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ECU problems, part II
> Have even 5% of our Team3S
membership experienced ECM failure
> of any type? One percent maybe? What
would that be, 6 members?
It seems like the numbers are increasing
lately, but I have no scientific
numbers to go by. It would be
interesting to see out of how many people who
had to replace their ECU how
many were because of old capacitors, which the
"repair" places just soldered
in new ones and sold it again for $500 or
however much.
> Any
recalls or TSBs on the ECM?
You'll never see a TSB this late in the game,
and most recalls are
safety-oriented (ie: ball joints, transfer cases,
brakes, etc.) and those
are generally forced recalls by the NHTSB after some
people are killed by
the defects.
Mitsubishi's standard practice of
handling module failures is to charge the
customer wherever possible.
"Oh, you need a whole new ECU! Its completely
shot!" The money
gets handed over, and the cause of failure is never known.
Of course failure
numbers are never reported either.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 10:47:18
-0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ECU problems, part II
As has been discussed, leaking
electrolyte is one of the problems with
aluminum electrolytic caps. It
is not a mitsu specific problem! They use a
rubber-type seal on the bottom
of the cap that ages with time/heat, etc. and
will allow the electrolyte to
leak out on to the PWB. This electrolyte is a
salt solution.
Everything will evaporate except the salt which is very
corrosive and
conductive. This is where we start to have problems. We can
get
shorts but also large voltage spikes that can damage ecu components
because
of the lack of filtering.
As and electrical engineer for Honeywell, we
cannot design aluminum
electrolytic caps into any military products because
of their shelf life
requirements(i.e avionics sitting on the shelf for many
years before needing
to be used during a time of war...)
One solution
might be a solid tantalum cap, but you might have to use more
than one
tantalum to replace one electrolytic because of voltage/capacitance
requirements. You get the most bang for the bug with aluminum
electrolytics
when talking about voltage, capacitance and package
size.
Do a google search on leaking aluminum electrolytic capacitor and
you will
get hundreds of pages on the subject(big problem on older stereo
receivers/amps.)
Just replace them with new aluminum electrolytics
and you will get another
7+ years of service.(I've got 10+ on my '91 with
original caps). It is
something that we all have to live with from
VCRs to Camcorders to our
auto's ECU!!
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: ECU problems, part II
>Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 09:03:48
-0600
>
> > Have even 5% of our Team3S membership experienced ECM
failure
> > of any type? One percent maybe? What would that be, 6
members?
>
>It seems like the numbers are increasing lately, but I
have no scientific
>numbers to go by. It would be interesting to see
out of how many people
>who
>had to replace their ECU how many were
because of old capacitors, which the
>"repair" places just soldered in new
ones and sold it again for $500 or
>however much.
>
> > Any
recalls or TSBs on the ECM?
>
>You'll never see a TSB this late in
the game, and most recalls are
>safety-oriented (ie: ball joints, transfer
cases, brakes, etc.) and those
>are generally forced recalls by the NHTSB
after some people are killed by
>the defects.
>
>Mitsubishi's
standard practice of handling module failures is to charge the
>customer
wherever possible. "Oh, you need a whole new ECU! Its
completely
>shot!" The money gets handed over, and the cause of
failure is never
>known.
>Of course failure numbers are never
reported either.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: ECU problems, part II
>Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 09:03:48
-0600
>
> > Have even 5% of our Team3S membership experienced ECM
failure
> > of any type? One percent maybe? What would that be, 6
members?
>
>It seems like the numbers are increasing lately, but I
have no scientific
>numbers to go by. It would be interesting to see
out of how many people
>who
>had to replace their ECU how many were
because of old capacitors, which the
>"repair" places just soldered in new
ones and sold it again for $500 or
>however much.
>
> > Any
recalls or TSBs on the ECM?
>
>You'll never see a TSB this late in
the game, and most recalls are
>safety-oriented (ie: ball joints, transfer
cases, brakes, etc.) and those
>are generally forced recalls by the NHTSB
after some people are killed by
>the defects.
>
>Mitsubishi's
standard practice of handling module failures is to charge the
>customer
wherever possible. "Oh, you need a whole new ECU! Its
completely
>shot!" The money gets handed over, and the cause of
failure is never
>known.
>Of course failure numbers are never
reported either.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 11:59:06
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ECU problems, part II
Translation: "it hasn't happened to me
yet."
(grin)
> Have even 5% of our Team3S membership
experienced ECM failure of any
> type? One percent maybe? What would that
be, 6 members?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:04:40
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Vacuum Hose Questions
1) The FPR solenoid lowers idle fuel
pressure to about 34-36 psi.
When manifold pressure approaches atmospheric,
the line pressure
increases to ~43 psi. Line pressure continues to increase 1
psi for
every psi of boost to maintain ~43 psi of pressure
differential
across the injector. I think the ECM controls the FPR solenoid
but am
not certain it could be based on pressure alone. Your EBC needs
to
see plenum pressure. Any hose will do, but the two best choices
are
probably the FPR hose (small hose back of plenum near TB) or BPV
hose
(small hose front of plenum near TB). Tap the hose near the plenum
(
a few inches away will do). Cut the hose and install a T fitting.
2)
I put a new tap into the plenum and use that for all pressure
reference - EBC
and boost gauge. I don't think it hurts to have two
devices on one tap.
Neither of these "consume" air. It's a dead end
path to the device. I have
not tapped the BPV hose but I don't see
why not. Does someone have a reason
for us not to tap the BPV hose?
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-tap.htm3)
The length to the stock device should not change much. The paths
are parallel
and the air is not "consumed". Reasonable additions
should not make a big
difference. At least I have not heard of any of
us with complaints in this
regard. Of course, keep lines as short as
practical to minimize response
time.
4) no comments.
5) My engine is missing any hose connecting
the rear valve cover and
*Y-pipe*. The PCV valve is connected to the short
hose that goes from
the front valve cover to the intake manifold. If you look
at the
manifold (off the car) you will see that the PCV line goes to
a
passage that connects ALL ports in the manifold (it's underneath).
I
don't know enough to answer definitively why we must have a PCV
hose
connecting the rear valve cover to the intake hose. Except
perhaps
there will ALWAYS be "vacuum" in the intake hose. The PCV valve
will
be closed when the manifold pressure/valve cover
pressure
differential exceeds the spring pressure in the PCV valve - like
when
we are boosting. There is a PCV hose on the front of the
engine
connecting front and rear valve covers.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "Team3S
List (E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
"Starnet 3Si
Mailing List (E-mail)" <
stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Thursday,
November 29, 2001 5:04 PM
Subject: Team3S: Vacuum Hose Questions
I
replaced most of my rubber vacuum lines with silicone vacuum hoses
on my VR-4
this weekend. If you've not done this, it's a great way
to really learn
how all that stuff in the spider's web around the
throttle body works,
provided you take your time :-) Some questions
on that topic:
1)
Boost controller vacuum/boost reference line from the plenum... it
recommends
using the vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Regulator
(FPR). On my
car, there's a FPR solenoid between the plenum and the
FPR that controls
whether the FPR sees plenum pressure or ambient
pressure. I couldn't
find anything that explains WHEN the FPR
solenoid operates... anyone
know? And the obvious follow-up is:
for the BC reference line, should
I tap it BEFORE or AFTER the FPR
solenoid? As installed on the car when
I bought it, the line is
tapped BEFORE the FPR solenoid.
2) Is it
possible to use the BPV/BOV line as a place to tap an intake
plenum pressure
reading? Rather than having BOTH my mechanical boost
gauge AND my boost
controller tapped into the tiny FPR line, I was
thinking it might be better
to have one on the FPR line and one on
the BPV line. Comments?
3)
Obviously, by adding mechanical boost gauges, controllers, and
other devices
that need a pressure reading, we are lengthening the
existing vacuum
hoses. At what point does this lengthening become a
problem? I'm
guessing that adding more "stuff" connected to the hose
will delay pressure
change readings relative to the shorter stock
lines. If eliminating the
extra length isn't a viable option, would
changing the diameter of the lines
help?
4) Cautionary note: if you install SVH, be careful NOT to
replace
the clutch and brake vacuum lines that have the one-way valves
in
them - the others can be replaced, but I'm guessing that if
you
replaced the sections with the one-way valves in them, you'd be in
for
some trouble.
5) The 10mm ID hose that I (and others) have referred to as
the PCV
hose (attaches to the rear valve cover and the y-pipe)...
that's not
actually the PCV hose, is it? There's a smaller hose that
goes from
the PCV valve (front valve cover) DIRECTLY to the intake
manifold
(runner 5/6). So if that hose takes care of the PCV action,
what's
the other hose for? The one in the turbo inlet tube certainly
leaves
a nice film of oily residue in the rear turbo inlet tube (and
I
imagine in the turbine housing!). Does the engine need so much
PCV
that the hose on the PCV valve isn't enough?
- --Erik
'95
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:27:23
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Vacuum Hose Questions
Thanks, Jeff!
> Any hose will do,
but the two best choices are probably
> the FPR hose (small hose back of
plenum near TB) or BPV hose
> (small hose front of plenum near
TB).
Ok, so I thought similarly - but then I was checking for vacuum
leaks this
weekend and hooked a vacuum pump up to the BPV reference line
(with the BPV
being the only thing connected).... it leaks. Very
slowly, but it leaks,
and I just put new silicone hoses and clamps on 2 weeks
ago, so I think the
hose/connections are ok. I pumped it up to 16inHg
and the needle would
slowly drop to 0 over, say, a 5-8 second period. I
have a GReddy Type S BPV
- - is there something wrong here? I haven't
tested it for leaks on the
reference line under boost conditions. I do
notice that I have a "harder"
time calibrating my GReddy PRofec boost
controller when the boost reference
line is connected to the BPV hose rather
than the FPR line. Maybe that's
just coincidence though, since I've
only tried it a few times.
> > 5) The 10mm ID hose that I (and
others) have referred to as the PCV
> > hose (attaches to the rear
valve cover and the y-pipe)... that's not
> 5) My engine is
missing any hose connecting the rear valve cover and
> *Y-pipe*.
<...> I don't know enough to answer definitively why
> we must
have a PCV hose connecting the rear valve cover to the
> intake hose.
Except perhaps there will ALWAYS be "vacuum" in the
> intake hose.
Oops, please excuse my momentary brain lapse... I didn't mean
y-pipe - that
was supposed to be the turbo inlet "T" pipe directly after the
MAS housing.
The hose clips to the outside of the y-pipe for support, but
that doesn't
count =)
BTW, your explanation was the only thing I could
think of - maybe Flash
needs it because of all his left-foot-braking ;)
Actually... think it'd
help out for him to connect his brake/clutch vacuum
lines to the pre-turbo
intake to allow some vacuum during left-foot braking
(and using the throttle
to maintain boost) at the track?
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 11:01:46
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: BPU VR-4 withOUT a boost controller?
So has anyone installed
basic engine mods without a (manual or electronic)
boost controller?
I'm particularly interested in how an otherwise-stock
engine in a VR-4 would
behave if one were to install a free-flow intake (K&N
FIPK), a 3"
free-flow exhaust (HKS), and a 2.5"/2.5"/3" downpipe (Stillen)
with a gutted
rear pre-cat.
If you've done this and have an accurate boost gauge (read:
not stock), what
boost levels are you seeing?
The
details:
This weekend, I disconnected my boost controller and hooked the
stock
boost-regulating solenoid back up. Never mind why, I just
did it :-)
Well, much to my surprise, I saw boost levels in the 0.9-1.0
kg/cm^2 range!
It might go higher with extended flooring in 4-6th gears, but
I'm not going
to let it go there until I get some water injection or race
gas. And these
aren't just spikes when downshifting or quickly flooring
it at 3500RPM, this
is steady-state at WOT! BTW, I've checked these
boost readings on both a
mechanical and electronic boost gauge, connected
separately and
simultaneously.
Things I've checked:
* Stock boost
control solenoid (on and off the car, per FSM): OK
* Wastegate actuators: OK,
working
* Wastegate vacuum hoses: OK, no leaks (on car)
* Y-pipe-wastegate
boost reference line: OK, no leaks(on car)
* Boost control solenoid vacuum
lines: OK, no leaks(on car)
* BCS wiring harness: OK
Thus the only
thing I can figure is that the ECU is regulating the solenoid
duty cycle
based on some static map created for the stock engine and that my
free-flow
intake and exhaust allow the turbos to spool and spin faster,
thereby
generating more boost, more quickly than the stock engine. Is
this
correct?
Thanks,
- --Erik
P.S. with this setup, I
can get FULL boost (0.9-1.0 kg/cm^2) at a hair over
2000RPM!
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Black 3000GT VR-4 (6MT, AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 37,000
mi
Track Setup: FIPK, HKS TT Exhaust, GReddy
PRofecA,
GReddy TypeS BPV, Stillen DP, TEC Front ST Brace,
Cusco Rear ST Brace, Optima RedTop,
SpeedBleeders,
Porterfield Cryo Front Rotors, R4S Front Pads,
Firehawk SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17 @43/37(AutoX), '94 VR-4
Wheels
'94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 80,000mi
http://www.team3s.com/~egross-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 14:23:11
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Suspension
FYI, I would be most interested in any aftermarket
replacement shocks/struts for 96 base 3000gt.
I want something adjustable,
have never seen anything, except full coilover replacements.
something
that adjusts to at least double the OEM rates.
Kurt
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest
[mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 7:10 PM
To:
eric;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
> Thank you
for your assistance. Based on the comment you made about
aftermarket shocks
being better what recommendations would you have? I was
checking out springs
from Eibach. The kit they were selling with it comes
with KYB struts.
-
--------------------------->
I can't comment about the KYB's, but the
Eibachs are a great choice, and
what many of us on the list have
chosen. Unless you're intending to road
race or autocross your car, I
would debate the need for aftermarket struts.
I road race on occasion, and I
am happy with the handling with just the
Eibach Pro-Kit. My performance
shop recommended that I add a rear anti-sway
bar to complete my suspension
mods, and they said that aftermarket struts
were unnecessary, since the stock
ones were quite beefy for the lower weight
of a non-turbo 3S. The
Eibachs are a bitch to install and require
elongating the holes in the rear
in order to get back to spec alignment
(email privately before you do it, or
use our Search Page for "Eibach +
nightmare". Even the Dodge dealer had
a problem doing it.) The Eibach Pro
Kits lower the car 1.2" - 1.3" and
do a great job of reducing plowing in
corners, handling road hazards,
etc. Highly recommended, but you *will*
scrape the front turning into
even the slightest raised driveway. A 2"
aftermarket spring lowering
(like with some other kits) is nuts, IMO, unless
there are no hills where you
live.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 16:26:33
-0500
From: "Bill vP" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BPU VR-4 withOUT a boost controller?
in which gear?
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Gross, Erik <
erik.gross@intel.com>
>with
this setup, I can get FULL boost (0.9-1.0 kg/cm^2) at a hair over
>
2000RPM!
>
>
------
----------
> Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
> '95 Black 3000GT VR-4 (6MT, AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 37,000
mi
> Track Setup: FIPK, HKS TT Exhaust, GReddy
PRofecA,
> GReddy TypeS BPV, Stillen DP, TEC Front ST
Brace,
> Cusco Rear ST Brace, Optima RedTop,
SpeedBleeders,
> Porterfield Cryo Front Rotors, R4S
Front Pads,
> Firehawk SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17
@43/37(AutoX), '94 VR-4 Wheels
> '94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around
corners" Corolla 80,000mi
>
http://www.team3s.com/~egross>
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 13:37:51
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: BPU VR-4 withOUT a boost controller?
> >with this setup, I
can get FULL boost (0.9-1.0 kg/cm^2)
> >at a hair over
2000RPM!
> in which gear?
3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, and maybe 2nd,
but haven't tried. Any situation where
I'm around 2000RPM for more than
1.5-2 seconds and I get at least 0.9
kg/cm^2.
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 21:48:10
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S:
OT: '95 VR4 for sale
I found a '95 VR4 Spyder for a steal of a price, so
I'm selling mine.
Green '95 VR4, fully loaded. Infinity audio/6 disc
changer, built in hands
free kit for Sasmsung 8500 SprintPCS phone (yes, will
give the phone w/ the
car :). The kit was installed professionally and runs
audio through both a
separate hidden speaker, and the car speakers.
1k
mi on rebuilt transmission
1k mi on RPS stage II clutch
Completely stock
otherwise
1year/12k mi tranny warranty
2years/24k mi MMC bumper to bumper
warranty - this is a worry-free car!!!
67K mi
Needs 60K service (that's
the only thing that would need to be done)
No
accidents/dents/scratches
Put in a mesh in the front to protect radiator from
incoming rocks (you can
tell it works, too ;)
pics at
http://35.11.9.93/forsale/95_vr4.htm.
They were taken towards the
evening, so the quality on some of them isn't
great. I'll find a sunny day
(whenever the next one comes up) and post some
more pictures in better
lighting.
Asking for 24K obo. Again OBO - I
posted on 3si and got flamed by people who
didn't read the entire message -
I'm open to suggestions on the price, just
contact me.
Located in East
Lansing, MI. Will drive up to Chicago if need be (I live
there - it'll be on
my way ;)
Thanks,
Alex.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 21:56:55
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S:
'95 Spyder
Like I said, I found a great spyder, but here's my question.
The guy who has
it now is not the original owner. I was wondering if anyone
knew who the
original owner is, so I could get the whole story on this car.
It's a red
'95 VR4 Spyder. It's got:
HKS BC
HKS Turbo
Timer
Borla Cat-back
what seems to be a stillen downpipe
After Mrkt
Boost Gauge
After Mrkt pedals
Sub (don't know who)
Clarion
deck
After Mrkt Security System
The BC, timer and deck are mounted in the
center console. They look to be
installed professionally, or at least by
someone who definitely took their
time.
Supposedly this car came from
South Beach Florida. It has just under 25k
miles and the current owner said
he bought it about 1.5 years ago and put on
about 2k miles since
then.
I would appreciate any and all info on this
beauty.
Also, if anyone has some input as to what I
should look out for, I'd
much appreciate
it.
Thanks,
Alex.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 16:04:39
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECU problems, part II
> Ooooh, almost 10 years on mine.
Can't the Mitsu engineers get
> anything right? :)
Well they have
got it right, every product has a life cycle. It's good for
me 'cos I'm in
the electronics repair business.
>
> Steve, You are joking
right?
In Japan they only keep their cars for 5 to 7 years then they
"dump them"
overseas to places like NZ. Why design a car to last longer, it's
bad for
business.They get rid of them because of things like o2 sensors
faulty and
dodgey ECUs.
> I admit that when the ECM fails the caps
are the prevelant cause. But
> DESIGNED to fail? Please.
>
>
Have even 5% of our Team3S membership experienced ECM failure of any
>
type? One percent maybe? What would that be, 6 members?
I repair ECUs all
the time, they are ALL timebombs.That was one of the first
jobs I did on my
car when I bought it.
>
> With 0ver 112,000 3S cars made through the
1994 model year (almost
> 75% of all production), any idea of how many of
these have had ECM
> problems?
Most of the ones I repair are pre
93
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 23:10:16
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Maximum
PRACTICAL limit on 15G turbos?
I'm wondering what the maximum practical
boost at redline would be with a
pair of TD04-15G turbos. (assuming
sufficient fuel) I know what the best
conditions, laboratory math model
says, but what have you guys seen in the
real world? If I've got the
fuel for it, how much air am I really going to
be able to get into the motor
on an average day?
Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 08:46:26
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Maximum PRACTICAL limit on 15G turbos?
If you can get them to
hold it... I would say 17-19 psi on 93-94 octane.
If you live in the
Republic of CA I would not go over 16-17 psi on pump
gas..... {living in CT
and getting 94 octane for $1.38 gal :) }
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jeff VanOrsdal [SMTP:jeffv@1nce.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, December 04, 2001 11:10 PM
> To: Team3s Tech List
>
Subject: Team3S: Maximum PRACTICAL limit on 15G turbos?
>
> I'm
wondering what the maximum practical boost at redline would be with a
>
pair of TD04-15G turbos. (assuming sufficient fuel) I know what the
best
> conditions, laboratory math model says, but what have you guys seen
in the
> real world? If I've got the fuel for it, how much air am I
really going
> to
> be able to get into the motor on an average
day?
>
> Jeff V.
> 1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
>
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#691
***************************************