Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, November 30
2001 Volume 01 : Number
688
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 30 Nov 2001 17:58:26 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 91 3000GT problem
Hi
Sounds like ECU problems too. I
think the rain part is irrelevent
Steve
After a hard rain, my 91
3000GT SL with 204,500 miles doesnt seem to want to
start. If
>
it even does start on the first try, it sometimes cuts off a second
later
with a struggle to
> keep running. the whole time it
struggles i hear a clicking noise coming
from
> somewhere in the
dash. after adding water remover and such, it started
working fine
for
> a about 2 weeks until the next hard rain. in the after morning
it wont
even fire, it just
> cranks. after doing that about 6
times it will only then start to fire
before it keeps cutting
>
off.....and a few more times again of starting it and it will stay on.
after
that it runs fine
> and starts up fine unless i let it sit out to
long and it has a hard
timestarting up again(if
> its still wet
out that is). this time around i discovered that shaking
the car helps it
to
> start easier and faster....not the usuall 5-15 times. anyone
know what it
could it be?
> Thanks
>
>
Steven
> Nashville
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 22:03:58
-0800
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: dead speedomoter
You don't say what model/year you have, but
I've seen something similar
happen with mechanical speedometer cables on
other vehicles. I don't know
if that canhappen with the vehicle speed
sensor for electronic speedometers,
but I'll bet they produce some weird
effects.
Michael
'92 VR4
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Shane Swan
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSent:
Thursday, November 29, 2001 2:56 PM
Subject: Team3S: dead
speedomoter
If anybody can help me please do.. here's my
situation:
On the way to school this morning my speedomoter decides to do
a jumping
action with a 20 mph difference..Odd?..after hitting
40mph(estimation) it
decides to quit on me..i've tried everything to my
knowledge to make that
needle work again. and i've figured out that i'm
not putting any more miles
on my car. i've been stuck at 141023 for the last
50 miles or so..good?..And
at least i still have my rmp guage :) well if you
have any idea what-so-ever
that might be wrong w/ my car please help me
out.
Thank you,
Shane Swan
Kaiou_182@hotmail.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 13:16:11
+0700
From: "Marcus" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject:
Team3S: BAD ISC/IACV
Anybody knows how to punish the ISC/IACV is bad and
should be replaced
soonest, please let me know.
When I insert the key
starter at position ON I heard the solenoid works then
I start to crank the
engine after the engine run idling at 1000 rpm and the
temperature of engine
around 80 deg.F I reconnect the cable of ISC/IACV but
the engine can run
normal even aircond. at position ON or works. I can
accelerate the engine
hardly or increasing the rpm step by step but the
engine run fine.
I can
say if my ISC/IACV has a problem or doesn't work I still can drive
the
car.
To remove ISC/IACV on throttle body, should I remove throttle
body first
please advise
Your kindly assistance will be highly
appreciated
Regards,
marcus
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 23:31:53
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: dead speedomoter
I agree,
If you have a non-turbo, your speedo
cable is probably shot. If you have a
twin turbo, you probably have a faulty
speed sensor.
Wayne
At 11:03 PM 11/29/01 , Michael, Sharon &
Dashiell Rhoden wrote:
>You don't say what model/year you have, but I've
seen something similar
>happen with mechanical speedometer cables on other
vehicles. I don't know
>if that canhappen with the vehicle speed
sensor for electronic speedometers,
>but I'll bet they produce some weird
effects.
>
>Michael
>'92 VR4
>----- Original Message
-----
>From: Shane Swan
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Sent:
Thursday, November 29, 2001 2:56 PM
>Subject: Team3S: dead
speedomoter
>
>
>If anybody can help me please do.. here's my
situation:
>
>On the way to school this morning my speedomoter
decides to do a jumping
>action with a 20 mph difference..Odd?..after
hitting 40mph(estimation) it
>decides to quit on me..i've tried everything
to my knowledge to make that
>needle work again. and i've figured
out that i'm not putting any more miles
>on my car. i've been stuck at
141023 for the last 50 miles or so..good?..And
>at least i still have my
rmp guage :) well if you have any idea what-so-ever
>that might be wrong
w/ my car please help me out.
>
>Thank you,
>Shane
Swan
>Kaiou_182@hotmail.com
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 22:43:07
-0800
From: "Jim and Sharman Watkins" <
jim@jimnshar.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Apexi AVCR question
Thanks Ken.
This was helpful to me as I have
never turned off the learn mode on my
unit and the boost has been creeping
up. Recently the weather turned
cold and even my .65 duty cycle "A"
setting has been able to reach 1.00.
Looks like it is time to reset
everything and start again.
Jim
95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 16:04:37
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Vacuum Hose Questions
I replaced most of my rubber vacuum lines
with silicone vacuum hoses on my
VR-4 this weekend. If you've not done
this, it's a great way to really
learn how all that stuff in the spider's web
around the throttle body works,
provided you take your time :-) Some
questions on that topic:
1) Boost controller vacuum/boost reference line
from the plenum... it
recommends using the vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure
Regulator (FPR). On
my car, there's a FPR solenoid between the plenum
and the FPR that controls
whether the FPR sees plenum pressure or ambient
pressure. I couldn't find
anything that explains WHEN the FPR solenoid
operates... anyone know? And
the obvious follow-up is: for
the BC reference line, should I tap it BEFORE
or AFTER the FPR
solenoid? As installed on the car when I bought it, the
line is tapped
BEFORE the FPR solenoid.
2) Is it possible to use the BPV/BOV line as a
place to tap an intake
plenum pressure reading? Rather than having BOTH
my mechanical boost gauge
AND my boost controller tapped into the tiny FPR
line, I was thinking it
might be better to have one on the FPR line and one
on the BPV line.
Comments?
3) Obviously, by adding mechanical boost
gauges, controllers, and other
devices that need a pressure reading, we are
lengthening the existing vacuum
hoses. At what point does this
lengthening become a problem? I'm guessing
that adding more "stuff"
connected to the hose will delay pressure change
readings relative to the
shorter stock lines. If eliminating the extra
length isn't a viable
option, would changing the diameter of the lines help?
4) Cautionary
note: if you install SVH, be careful NOT to replace the
clutch and
brake vacuum lines that have the one-way valves in them - the
others can be
replaced, but I'm guessing that if you replaced the sections
with the one-way
valves in them, you'd be in for some trouble.
5) The 10mm ID hose that I
(and others) have referred to as the PCV
hose (attaches to the rear valve
cover and the y-pipe)... that's not
actually the PCV hose, is it?
There's a smaller hose that goes from the PCV
valve (front valve cover)
DIRECTLY to the intake manifold (runner 5/6). So
if that hose takes
care of the PCV action, what's the other hose for? The
one in the turbo
inlet tube certainly leaves a nice film of oily residue in
the rear turbo
inlet tube (and I imagine in the turbine housing!). Does the
engine
need so much PCV that the hose on the PCV valve isn't enough?
-
--Erik
'95 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 07:39:24
-0500
From: "Robert Booker" <
nsubooker@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: dead speedomoter
You probably broke the speedometer cable. I
managed to break 3 of them. If
you have a service manual, you can change it
out yourself. Call Tallahassee
Mits. and get another one, as they cannot be
fixed.
Matt
3/Si #311
> If anybody can help me please do..
here's my situation:
>
> On the way to school this morning my
speedomoter decides to do a jumping
> action with a 20 mph
difference..Odd?..after hitting 40mph(estimation) it
> decides to quit on
me..i've tried everything to my knowledge to make that
> needle work
again. and i've figured out that i'm not putting any more
miles
>
on my car. i've been stuck at 141023 for the last 50 miles
or
so..good?..And
> at least i still have my rmp guage :) well if you
have any idea
what-so-ever
> that might be wrong w/ my car please help
me out.
>
> Thank you,
> Shane Swan
>
Kaiou_182@hotmail.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 07:33:43
-0600
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
I have also driven a TT in the winter and I
must say, with good winter tires
I don't think there is a need for chains.
Mine plowed thru 16 inches of
fresh snow with no problems and it was alot of
fun.
Just my .02
Francis
96 RT/TT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Bill Miller [mailto:millebi@kw.igs.net]
Sent: Thursday,
November 29, 2001 10:24 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stCc:
brian.j.geddes@intel.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
Just to add my 2 cents worth here (after
CAD exchange .08 cents!)...
My advice to anyone that may be thinking
about using a 3S in the winter is
go right ahead. Also if
you can find
chains that fit and don't come off, then go ahead and use
them... personally
I'd keep
the speeds down and not attempt to do a winter rally with them, but
other
than that go for it. I
use good snow tires on my 91 and I don't
have any problems in snow up to 25
cm (1 foot) deep. The
"massive" weight
of our cars can be a real asset with skinny tires ... just
remember Newtons
1st
law ("Everything wants to keep on doing what it's already doing" i.e.
100
Kph, 90 degree bend =
Splat! into the ditch!). I would get worried
with deep snow and a lowered
car, but other than that
you should be
fine.
As to the 45/55 split, let me attempt to convince anyone that
hasn't tried
it, if you stomp on the
gas in snow you will have the rear
end dance around for a bit until the
front tires bite in and get
you
moving. It is a lot of fun to turn the steering wheel and gun it and
shoot
snow all over the
place to make like a rally driver wanna
be.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 08:39:53
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
OK I will throw my .02 on this thread (hell
everyone else has) Just get some
snow tires it will be cheaper than if the
chains come off and bang up a
fender well. I use BFG KDWS's (245/45R17)
and I have no problems, the key
to remember is sure AWD is great for getting
you going but you still have to
stop ;)
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Morice, Francis
[SMTP:francis.morice@retek.com]
> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 8:34
AM
> To: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Chains on a
VR-4?
>
> I have also driven a TT in the winter and I must say,
with good winter
> tires
> I don't think there is a need for chains.
Mine plowed thru 16 inches of
> fresh snow with no problems and it was
alot of fun.
>
> Just my .02
>
> Francis
> 96
RT/TT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Miller
[mailto:millebi@kw.igs.net]
> Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 10:24
PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> Cc:
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
>
> Just to add my 2 cents
worth here (after CAD exchange .08 cents!)...
>
> My advice to
anyone that may be thinking about using a 3S in the winter is
> go right
ahead. Also if
> you can find chains that fit and don't come off, then go
ahead and use
> them... personally I'd keep
> the speeds down and
not attempt to do a winter rally with them, but other
> than that go for
it. I
> use good snow tires on my 91 and I don't have any problems in
snow up to
> 25
> cm (1 foot) deep. The
> "massive" weight of
our cars can be a real asset with skinny tires ...
> just
> remember
Newtons 1st
> law ("Everything wants to keep on doing what it's already
doing" i.e. 100
> Kph, 90 degree bend =
> Splat! into the ditch!).
I would get worried with deep snow and a lowered
> car, but other than
that
> you should be fine.
>
> As to the 45/55 split, let me
attempt to convince anyone that hasn't tried
> it, if you stomp on the
> gas in snow you will have the rear end dance around for a bit until
the
> front tires bite in and get
> you moving. It is a lot of fun
to turn the steering wheel and gun it and
> shoot snow all over the
> place to make like a rally driver wanna be.
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 08:33:50
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
Guys..please..just listen to
yerselves.
Winter driving is always about risk..chains severely reduce
that risk.
In some cases..they are REQUIRED and the cops wont let ya
past.
If you have chains on..you are NOT going fast whatsoever.
So
in a situation where you would NEED chains..you have a choice.
1)
Chains.
2) Most likely wreck your car.
Chains are for when it gets
really fu**ed up, and your personal safety
pretty much demands
them.
Of course you can use them before it gets that bad..but I cant
belive I
hear ya saying "I dont wanna scratch a fender".
Fine. Just scratch up
the whole front end and shorten the car by
18"..no big deal right?
On Fri, 30 Nov 2001, Furman, Russell
wrote:
> OK I will throw my .02 on this thread (hell everyone else
has) Just get some
> snow tires it will be cheaper than if the chains come
off and bang up a
> fender well. I use BFG KDWS's (245/45R17) and I
have no problems, the key
> to remember is sure AWD is great for getting
you going but you still have to
> stop ;)
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Morice, Francis
[SMTP:francis.morice@retek.com]
> > Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001
8:34 AM
> > To: Team3S (E-mail)
> > Subject: RE: Team3S:
Chains on a VR-4?
> >
> > I have also driven a TT in the
winter and I must say, with good winter
> > tires
> > I don't
think there is a need for chains. Mine plowed thru 16 inches of
> >
fresh snow with no problems and it was alot of fun.
> >
> >
Just my .02
> >
> > Francis
> > 96 RT/TT
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 11:17:47
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
Geoff, if it is that bad out that an AWD
car with a curb weight of over
3700lbs needs chains, then 10:1 the friggin
state you reside in is closed.
Well except the Midwest, but those folks are
crazier than the rest of us ;)
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Friday,
November 30, 2001 11:34 AM
> To: Furman, Russell
> Cc: 'Team
3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
>
>
Guys..please..just listen to yerselves.
>
> Winter driving is
always about risk..chains severely reduce that risk.
>
> In some
cases..they are REQUIRED and the cops wont let ya past.
>
> If you
have chains on..you are NOT going fast whatsoever.
>
> So in a
situation where you would NEED chains..you have a choice.
>
> 1)
Chains.
> 2) Most likely wreck your car.
>
> Chains are for
when it gets really fu**ed up, and your personal safety
> pretty much
demands them.
>
> Of course you can use them before it gets that
bad..but I cant belive I
> hear ya saying "I dont wanna scratch a
fender". Fine. Just scratch up
> the whole front end and
shorten the car by 18"..no big deal right?
> Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 08:39:27
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
Yes, with a curb weight of 3700lbs thats a
LOT of momentum to stop.
AWD and 3700lbs is gonna stop a hell of a lot
slower than a FWD econobox.
AWD/AWD/TT/AdrenalinePump != good winter
handling.
Its the same way with the SUV crowd..they'll race ya off a
light and still
think they can take that turn at 30mph in a heavy
snow.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 11:23:39
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
Exactly my point chains wont really help
those TANKS any more than they will
help us, Just use your brain when
driving in snow/sleet. Now on ice I
agree completely that no true snow
tire will ever beat a performance tire
with chains on it.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 08:51:00
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
No..I find chains have been EXTREMELY
helpful in any vehicle..including
climbing up Sandia in New Mexico in a
snowstorm in our Stealth-TT.
Out here, theres no way in hell you can get
thru the rain/snow/sleet on
I80 to Reno once nightfall comes and it all
freezes.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 09:33:57
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
I drive year round in Colorado using 18"
Pirelli P-Zero tires.
I live at 6,500 feet going up unpaved roads at a 25
degree angle.
There are switch backs and hair pin turns.
I've never failed
to get home yet.
It has been ..... "interesting" on
occasion.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 12:27:48
EST
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: ECU
problems, part II
One last thought on the ECU, before I beat it to
death.... What about
installing a heat sink of some kind on either the
outside or inside of the
box (with a 12v fan that comes on with the
iginition). Seems like overkill,
but since I've gotten some replies that the
failures are heat related......
Another thought - Remote location of the
capacitors on the ECU chassis, next
to the transistors which are also
mounted there for use as a heat sink.
Last thought - (from a
friend of mine who's an electical engineer) - remote
mount the capacitors
outside the box, if prone to leakage. (drill hole in
ECU cover and
pull out some leads soldered to the board, then install Caps
outside of the
box. If they leak, who cares? (plus, could install them as a
plug-in
unit).
Any thoughts on the above? Especially the heat-related
theory?
Thor
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 11:40:21
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ECU problems, part II
> Another thought - Remote location
of the capacitors on the
> ECU chassis, next to the transistors which are
also
> mounted there for use as a heat sink.
Those heat
sinks get really hot - they'd probably heat the capacitors more
than just
leaving them alone.
> Last thought - (from a friend of mine who's an
electical
> engineer) - remote mount the capacitors outside the
box,
> if prone to leakage. (drill hole in ECU cover and
pull
> out some leads soldered to the board, then install Caps
>
outside of the box. If they leak, who cares? (plus, could
> install them
as a plug-in unit).
Much easier to just replace them every 5-6
years. It takes about 10
minutes, versus drilling holes in the case and
then having caps hanging off
the case on long leads where vibration can
affect the connections and if the
caps move the metal case can cut through
any insulation you use, etc.
Part of the problem is that the whole area
under the console where the ECU
is gets really hot if you have the heater on,
and pretty warm just under
normal driving.
This problem really isn't
that serious if dealt with as part of routine
maintenance every 5-7 years or
so. You can also use better rated capacitors
to have them last
longer.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 14:38:24
-0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: tranny issues
All,
I did not know about MD Auto, so I
though that I would send them an email
with some questions. I've
included my email with their response. They are
considerably MORE
expensive than Kormex($2k + core for trans/xfer combo
shipped..if I
recall). So far Frank will get my money when necessary!!
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
Hi Mark, the 18 spline and transfer spool are $695
each plus shipping. They
are 2 points higher on the Rockwell scale than the
stock ones and therefore
more durable. We feel that the 18 spline type is
stronger since the splines
are so much larger. They do eventually wear out
like the 25 spline type. We
recommend putting a little moly grease on the
shaft when replacing. We don't
sell the syncros at this time. If you would
prefer the 25 spline
transmission and transfer, the price would be the same,
$2695 plus shipping
$220 round trip. There is a core charge of $700 which is
always refunded
upon our receipt of your old transmission and transfer. You
can e-mail us or
call at the number below.
Thank you for your
inquiry,
Mike
1-619-390-0450
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Mark Wendlandt <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
To:
md@mdautoca.com <
md@mdautoca.com>
Date: Thursday,
November 29, 2001 6:14 PM
Subject: 5spd Getrag Parts
Hello,
I
understand that you can get parts for our 3000gt/Stealth AWD
transmission?
How much for the 18spline output shaft and xfer case
sleeve? It is stock or
some upgrade that will withstand the torque of
a high HP car better that the
stocker. Where did these items come
from? stock or do you have them
manufactured?
How much for 1-2
and 3-4 synchros. Are you selling complete
assemblies..hub, ring,
etc? Or just the ring. Where did these come from?
Are they
stock or are you manufacturing them?
How much for a complete 5spd
tranny/xfer case combo 25spline.
Regards,
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
>To: "
'frederickson.4@osu.edu'" <
frederickson.4@osu.edu>
>CC:
"Team3s (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: tranny issues
>Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 18:13:46
-0600
>
>Hi Kraig,
>
>I have some info on where to get
tranny parts and rebuilt trannies on my
>Links page at
http://www.daveblack.net/asp/3000GTLinks.asp>
>I
would try MD Auto in Cali. I have found their prices to be cheaper
than
>Kormex. I have a replacement from them and it seems to work
great. You
>can
>try using Redline Shockproof for your fluid
to help minimize that
"notchy"
>feeling.
>
>HTH
>
>Dave 95VR4
>The
ULTIMATE 3000GT/Stealth Resource -
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 15:53:36
-0500
From: "Shane Swan" <
kaiou_182@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: dead speedomoter
I know i would have left something
out....well i have a 92' dodge stealth
ES, and the cruise control does not
work...but after disassembling my guage
counsel...i started my car with my
guages sitting in my passenger seat..and
reversed out of my garage then back
in, the cable that turns to make my
speedomoter work, was turning..so i
figured it might have been something
wrong w/ my guages. I stuck a flat head
screwdriver (one that WOULD fit, not
so i would have to jam it in there) in
the back and turned it a few times,
however i managed to move my
speedomoter. is that odd? it doesnt make any
sense to me. if the cable seems
to be working and the guages are too what
could be wrong?
1. the cable
may be broken and will not turn once i put the guages back up?
2. the end of
the cable is broken and may not be the right size to fit my
guage?
Thanks for your help,
Shane Swan
92' Stealth ES
Kaiou_182@hotmail.comFrom:
"Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: dead speedomoter
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 22:03:58 -0800
You
don't say what model/year you have, but I've seen something similar
happen
with mechanical speedometer cables on other vehicles. I don't know
if
that canhappen with the vehicle speed sensor for electronic speedometers,
but
I'll bet they produce some weird effects.
Michael
'92 VR4
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Shane Swan
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSent:
Thursday, November 29, 2001 2:56 PM
Subject: Team3S: dead
speedomoter
If anybody can help me please do.. here's my
situation:
On the way to school this morning my speedomoter decides to do
a jumping
action with a 20 mph difference..Odd?..after hitting
40mph(estimation) it
decides to quit on me..i've tried everything to my
knowledge to make that
needle work again. and i've figured out that i'm
not putting any more miles
on my car. i've been stuck at 141023 for the last
50 miles or so..good?..And
at least i still have my rmp guage :) well if you
have any idea what-so-ever
that might be wrong w/ my car please help me
out.
Thank you,
Shane Swan
Kaiou_182@hotmail.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 15:45:38
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: tranny issues
I'm not sure the reason for the discrepancy.
When I shopped around I found
their prices to be cheaper than Kormex. I
mentioned to them that I was with
3/S - I don't remember if I mentioned that
to Frank at Kormex.
Maybe that would account for the
difference...
Dave 95 VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Wendlandt
[SMTP:stealth_tt@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 2:38
PM
> To:
dblai@allstate.com;
frederickson.4@osu.edu> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: tranny issues
>
> All,
>
> I did
not know about MD Auto, so I though that I would send them an email
>
with some questions. I've included my email with their response.
They
> are
> considerably MORE expensive than Kormex($2k + core for
trans/xfer combo
> shipped..if I recall). So far Frank will get my
money when necessary!!
>
> Mark Wendlandt
>
'91RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 14:49:50
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: VR4 project car for sale..
Has been sold.
Will the new
owner step up to the podium??
Team3s Content:
Laguna Seca NASA day
is filling up rapidly..dont forget to sign up QUICKLY
if you want to go,
there are only limited # of cars allowed to enter at
that track.
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 16:08:01
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 1991 Stealth Technical Information Manual (STIM)
I am happy to
announce that Team3S is now hosting a copy of the 1991
STIM. I thank Bob
Forrest and the other admins for taking time to
make this rare and unique
manual available on their server. If you
haven't looked through this manual
yet, check it out. You are bound
to find an interesting tidbit of
information.
Did you realize that:
- - the block is steel alloy?
-
- the ECM controls the closed-loop A/F in each cylinder bank
separately?
-
- G sensors are used for the ECS, and for the AWD version the ABS?
- - the
FWD has a 3-channel ABS system while the AWD is only 2-channel?
There is
lots more! Here is the URL:
http://www.team3s.com/STIM91/STIM91.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 19:09:43
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Torque
split; was Re: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
At 04:14 PM 11/29/01, Jeff
Lucius wrote:
>This is I think the second time I have read the mention of
"55%
>traction" on the rear tires or "more torque" on the rear tires
for
>our cars.
>
>How are you folks determining
that?
Jeff, looking at the picture of the differential
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius3/j3-cdvcu.jpg,
if you hold the
ring gear (the engine) still, then the sun gear (the front
wheels) will
rotate in the same direction as the carrier (the rear wheels)
but 33/27
(1.2222) times faster. If you try to rotate the ring gear but hold
both the
sun and the carrier still then the sun and the carrier torques that
you
will be applying to achieve this would be equal 27/33 respectively (or
45%/55%).
The angular momentum conservation law is quite evasive. I
tried to follow
your calculations and Mitsubishi calculations and came up
with my own set
that proved the 45/55 theory, but it looked just as
unconvincing as
Mitsubishi's.
Uneven or asymmetric torque
differentials do exist ours is one of then. The
simplest asymmetric torque
differential looks like a classic rear
differential that has left and right
side gears of a different size and the
pinion gears at a slight angle. This
diff would still turn left and right
tires at the same speed but the tires
will not be getting equal torques.
Put this diff between front and rear
axles and you've got a center
differential with uneven torque
split.
The viscous coupling comes into play only when there is slippage
between
the wheels, and gears in the differential start to rotate with
respect to
each other. The VCU lock the differential (not completely, but
almost) and
thus sends all the torque to the wheels that grip. Therefore the
45%/55%
torque split holds only until wheel slippage
occurs.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 07:12:31
-0500
From: "eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Suspension
Thank you for your assistance. Bases on the comment
you made about after
market shocks being better what recommendations would
you have? I was
checking out springs from Eibachi. The kit they were selling
with it comes
with KYB struts.
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Marc Jonathan Jacobs" <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
To:
"eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
Sent: Friday,
November 30, 2001 8:53 AM
Subject: Team3S: Suspension
> OE =
original equipment. This is what the stealership sells. Are
you
> asking, are there any parts for a TT that would fit the ES that
would
> help the suspension?
>
> Springs are stiffer. If
you have a service manual, it outlines what
> spring rates match what
model years.
>
> Sway bars are bigger for the TTs. The rear
may be tricky since the
> suspension designs are different for the
AWD.
>
> Brakes are bigger and much better on the TTs. '91 to
'93 are better,
> but '94+ are best. I have seen both on
EBAY.
> Bigger brakes will require the corresponding rims.
>
>
Shocks - the TTs have electronicly controlled shocks and will not work
>
without the wiring harness and computer. You can get better shocks
>
aftermarket.
>
> The rest of the suspension is the same in the front
for Base, ES, R/T,
> and TT.
>
> Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001
08:01:45 -0500
> From: "eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
> Subject:
Team3S: Suspension
>
> I was reading through the archives to check
up on suspensions. I was
> wondering if anyone has a recommendation. ('93
Stealth ES) Are there any
> good OE parts other than the original parts
from thedealership?
>
> Marc J. Jacobs
> xDSL Hardware
Development
> Alcatel, USA (919)
850-6386
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 17:33:02
-0800
From: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Changing Brake Pads
How hard is it to change the brake pads on
our cars?
I have a 92 RT TT
Thanks
Greg Gonzales
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 14:10:06
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: dead speedomoter
> You probably broke the speedometer
cable. I managed to break 3 of them. If
> you have a service manual, you
can change it out yourself. Call
Tallahassee
> Mits. and get another
one, as they cannot be fixed.
There's nothing that can't be fixed one way
or another.With mechanical
speedos, when they break the cable its normally
because the bearing in the
back seizes up. pull it out, give it a lube, then
fit another cable.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 14:22:26
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECU problems, part II
> Any thoughts on the above?
Especially the heat-related theory?
They're designed to last 7 years from
the factory, a rebuild will last
another 7. In another 7 years all the
other computers will be playing up
and you won't want the
car.
Steve
p.s. Electrical engineers should know that remote
mounted capacitors don't
work, that's why they're designed the way they
are.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 19:09:56
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Suspension
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
> Thank you
for your assistance. Based on the comment you made about
aftermarket shocks
being better what recommendations would you have? I was
checking out springs
from Eibach. The kit they were selling with it comes
with KYB struts.
-
--------------------------->
I can't comment about the KYB's, but the
Eibachs are a great choice, and
what many of us on the list have
chosen. Unless you're intending to road
race or autocross your car, I
would debate the need for aftermarket struts.
I road race on occasion, and I
am happy with the handling with just the
Eibach Pro-Kit. My performance
shop recommended that I add a rear anti-sway
bar to complete my suspension
mods, and they said that aftermarket struts
were unnecessary, since the stock
ones were quite beefy for the lower weight
of a non-turbo 3S. The
Eibachs are a bitch to install and require
elongating the holes in the rear
in order to get back to spec alignment
(email privately before you do it, or
use our Search Page for "Eibach +
nightmare". Even the Dodge dealer had
a problem doing it.) The Eibach Pro
Kits lower the car 1.2" - 1.3" and
do a great job of reducing plowing in
corners, handling road hazards,
etc. Highly recommended, but you *will*
scrape the front turning into
even the slightest raised driveway. A 2"
aftermarket spring lowering
(like with some other kits) is nuts, IMO, unless
there are no hills where you
live.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 00:15:34
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Changing Brake Pads
Greg,
Not hard at all if you have a
good floor jack, jack stands, and some
basic knowledge but give it an hour
the first time to make sure you are
not rushed. This is shown in
Lucius' page or perhaps a Team3S FAQ. I
have it listed but as it is for
the Big Reds then only some of it is
relative.
A $30 2-ton jack is
fine but a floor jack is preferred. I have already
bent the arm that
lifts upward on the econo-model ($30) so now I have
the 3-ton floor jack from
Sears and love it. Please be safe and use
jack stands. I have pix
here but if not then let me know and I'll
re-post them. (The pix under
the Big Red install are with the old jack
by the way)
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/brakes/brakes.htmlFor
the fronts there is a wire spring. Remove this from the two pins
going
through the pad backers. Remove the bent piece of sheet metal.
Remove
pins. Remove brake pads. Push pistons back into calipers
(or
bleed brakes at this time). Install new pads, re-install pins,
sheet
metal, retaining wire. BE SURE TO SET THE PADS AGAINST THE ROTOR
BY
PUSHING DOWN ON THE BRAKE PEDAL BEFORE DRIVING AWAY (or you will hit
the
brakes for the first time and have nothing until the fluid gets built
up
... oops).
For the rears it is almost identical. From the
first to second gen I
think there is a slight difference (or maybe I'm
thinking of the dust
shield). Basically once you have the wheel and
rotor off you remove the
wire retainer, sheet metal, pins, pads, and push
pistons inside caliper
and then reverse the process.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg
Gonzales
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 20:33
How hard is it to
change the brake pads on our cars?
I have a 92 RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#688
***************************************
