Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, November 29 2001
Volume 01 : Number
687
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 28 Nov 2001 23:59:57 -0500
From: Joe Kenwabikise <
jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECU repair
I just took my car out for spin, since I haven't
driven it in while
(~week), and everything was all fine and stuff until I got
back home.
Now for a little background on some problems I've had
lately. The
clutch is about to say it's final goodbye, and is slipping
a lot in 3rd
and higher. I have the famous 2nd gear synchro
problem. Finally, the
hydraulic system for the clutch is leaking, but
only when the clutch
pedal is depressed and held. This has caused some
headaches, so that's
getting fixed soon. Anyway, the problem that
happened tonight was kinda
odd. I was parking the car, and when I let
the clutch out to back up,
there was a little grinding noise, like metal
shearing, but it stopped
after the clutch was fully engaged. It
happened again in 1st, and
reverse, and I can get it to happen pretty much
everytime. It's like at
the end of letting off the clutch, the bad
sound, and then it's fine.
Any ideas?
Sorry for the length,
but TIA!
Joe
91 RT/TT black
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 00:19:53
-0500
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: more transmission woes...
Sounds like the rivets are grinding on
the flywheel. Most clutches have
rivets holding the friction material
to the hub and once the material is
worn enough they can grind. Could
also be the throwout bearing but they
usually make noise when the clutch is
all the way released.
Good Luck,
Kevin Schappell
http://kevin.schappell.comSave money
on all of your speed parts.
http://www.SpeedShoppers.com>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Joe Kenwabikise
>
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 12:00 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: more transmission woes...
>
> I just took my car
out for spin, since I haven't driven it in while
> (~week), and everything
was all fine and stuff until I got back home.
> Now for a little
background on some problems I've had lately. The
> clutch is about
to say it's final goodbye, and is slipping a lot in 3rd
> and
higher. I have the famous 2nd gear synchro problem. Finally,
the
> hydraulic system for the clutch is leaking, but only when the
clutch
> pedal is depressed and held. This has caused some
headaches, so that's
> getting fixed soon. Anyway, the problem that
happened tonight was kinda
> odd. I was parking the car, and when I
let the clutch out to back up,
> there was a little grinding noise, like
metal shearing, but it stopped
> after the clutch was fully engaged.
It happened again in 1st, and
> reverse, and I can get it to happen pretty
much everytime. It's like at
> the end of letting off the clutch,
the bad sound, and then it's fine.
> Any ideas?
>
> Sorry for
the length, but TIA!
>
> Joe
> 91 RT/TT black
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 22:33:08
-0800 (PST)
From: AmkreadGTO <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FS: Autopower camera mount and Sony Hi8 camcorder..
Hello
All,
These items are great for the road racers! Check the
following
url for more info and pix...
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=16a28849be500147d59cd0c56218dc21&threadid=55670(Cut
& paste the url if link does not work)
Email me privately if
interested.
Thanks!
Best,
George
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 22:55:17
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: FS: Autopower camera mount and Sony Hi8
camcorder..
It retails for $99 at I/O port racing..to be honest, and he
doesnt show
the safety strap for it.
On Wed, 28 Nov 2001, AmkreadGTO
wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> These items are great for the
road racers! Check the
> following url for more info and pix...
>
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=16a28849be500147d59cd0c56218dc21&threadid=55670>
> (Cut & paste the url if link does not work)
>
> Email
me privately if interested.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
Best,
> George
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 22:54:07
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: PF rotor quality update
Hi Geoff,
What will
be the approx cost of replacement disks (without hats)?
Do you have an
idea of the weight savings over 1 piece rotors?
When will the carbon
fiber rotors be ready?!!
Thanks,
KM
> Also, 2pc OEM fitment
race rotors for 2nd gen will cost anywhere from $
> 760 to $820 for the
front pair if anyone is interested They are sized up
> and
ready. The rotors will look just like Mr. Floyd's do, but a thin
>
shade smaller diameter than he ordered for his custom setup.
>
>
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/rotor1.jpg>
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/rotor2.jpg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 00:09:09
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: PF rotor quality update
The replacements are
about $175ea for the heavy duty directionally vaned,
and $20 less for the
straight vaned.
You'll save about a pound, theres a LOT more mass to
these..and since were
stuck with OEM sizing for the calipers..thats a good
thing.
A "good idea" is also a new hardare kit (bolts and nuts) when you
replace
those, they are $39/set+ship.
On Wed, 28 Nov 2001, Ken
Middaugh wrote:
> Hi Geoff,
>
> What will be the approx
cost of replacement disks (without hats)?
>
> Do you have an idea
of the weight savings over 1 piece rotors?
>
> When will the carbon
fiber rotors be ready?!!
>
> Thanks,
> KM
>
>
> Also, 2pc OEM fitment race rotors for 2nd gen will cost anywhere from
$
> > 760 to $820 for the front pair if anyone is
interested They are sized up
> > and ready. The
rotors will look just like Mr. Floyd's do, but a thin
> > shade smaller
diameter than he ordered for his custom setup.
> >
> >
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/rotor1.jpg>
>
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/rotor2.jpg-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 00:12:12
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: PF rotor quality update
Almost
forgot..
The carbon/carbon kit is waiting for the prototypes to be
completed on a
Supra-TT.
having problems finding a good way to
secure the pads to the backing
plates without "growing" them on (read lots of
time..and LOTS of money to
do that). Im sure they'll be perfect when
done. A 12hr endurance race at
TWS is the proving ground for these when
done.
On Thu, 29 Nov 2001, Geoff Mohler wrote:
> The
replacements are about $175ea for the heavy duty directionally vaned,
>
and $20 less for the straight vaned.
>
> You'll save about a pound,
theres a LOT more mass to these..and since were
> stuck with OEM sizing
for the calipers..thats a good thing.
>
> A "good idea" is also a
new hardare kit (bolts and nuts) when you replace
> those, they are
$39/set+ship.
>
> On Wed, 28 Nov 2001, Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> > Hi Geoff,
> >
> > What will be the approx cost
of replacement disks (without hats)?
> >
> > Do you have an
idea of the weight savings over 1 piece rotors?
> >
> > When
will the carbon fiber rotors be ready?!!
> >
> >
Thanks,
> > KM
> >
> > > Also, 2pc OEM fitment
race rotors for 2nd gen will cost anywhere from $
> > > 760 to $820
for the front pair if anyone is interested They are sized up
>
> > and ready. The rotors will look just like Mr. Floyd's do, but a
thin
> > > shade smaller diameter than he ordered for his custom
setup.
> > >
> > >
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/rotor1.jpg>
> >
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/rotor2.jpg-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 02:53:41
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: FS: Autopower camera mount and Sony Hi8
camcorder..
True he did not show the camera strap so hopefully it is also
included.
I have this exact same setup and am very happy with it. Sure
I would
prefer a digital camera so video capture is easier but at the time I
was
on a budget.
And a safety strap can be substituted with a 1"
tubular webbing (as used
in climbing and backpacking) and some Fastex buckles
or something
similar. This is not so much as a safety device as much as
it keeps the
vibrations of the camera to a minimum. Every car has a
frequency at
which is vibrates. If this is 60 mph and you happen to hit
that often
then your camera will shake badly. The strap helps to
eliminate much of
this. I don't have any video captured yet but will
gladly answer
questions for people.
This safety strap, as far as
safety, is not required by many racing
bodies (AutoX, track events, etc.) but
ask before you try and run
without one. Since the camera is only held
on by the tripod screw mount
- -- if this breaks then you will have a one
pound camera flying around
inside the car at 120 mph. Mmmm. Bad
idea. The strap goes through the
handle of the camera (or something
attached to it) and around the
rollbar or harness bar or rear strut tower bar
so if it does come loose
it will stay within reason and not hit you in the
head or break windows.
Some bodies actually enforce the safety wire idea
(everything such as
knobs, switches, etc. are wired down safely) but not for
most of the
stuff we see on these lists.
And it is listed as $94.95 on
their page now (
www.ioportracing.com)
but
who is counting $5.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
Autopower race
rollbar and Autopower camera mount with safety strap both
from I/O Port
Racing and a Sony Hi8 camcorder from before
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001
01:55
It retails for $99 at I/O port racing..to be honest, and he doesnt
show
the safety strap for it.
On Wed, 28 Nov 2001, AmkreadGTO
wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> These items are great for the
road racers! Check the
> following url for more info and pix...
>
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=16a28849be500147d59cd0c56218dc21&threadid=55670
>
> (Cut & paste the url if link does not work)
>
> Email
me privately if interested.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 00:15:56
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: FS: Autopower camera mount and Sony Hi8
camcorder..
> And a safety strap can be substituted with a 1" tubular
webbing (as used
> in climbing and backpacking) and some Fastex buckles or
something
> similar. This is not so much as a safety device as much
as it keeps the
> vibrations of the camera to a minimum. Every car
has a frequency at
> which is vibrates. If this is 60 mph and you
happen to hit that often
> then your camera will shake badly. The
strap helps to eliminate much of
> this. I don't have any video
captured yet but will gladly answer
> questions for people.
>
> This safety strap, as far as safety, is not required by many
racing
> bodies (AutoX, track events, etc.) but ask before you try and
run
> without one. Since the camera is only held on by the tripod
screw mount
> -- if this breaks then you will have a one pound camera
flying around
> inside the car at 120 mph. Mmmm. Bad
idea. The strap goes through the
> handle of the camera (or
something attached to it) and around the
> rollbar or harness bar or rear
strut tower bar so if it does come loose
> it will stay within reason and
not hit you in the head or break windows.
> Some bodies actually enforce
the safety wire idea (everything such as
> knobs, switches, etc. are wired
down safely) but not for most of the
> stuff we see on these lists.
-
---
No..it requires a safety strap as per SFI rules.
Reasoning that if
it breaks lose, it'll hit you and can cause a track
incident.
It also
saved me a $5,000 video camera and lens when my foot broke on my
Sony at the
SP event (its a $15 replacable part).
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 13:36:37
+0100 (MET)
From: <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
I runned the car 6 winters without any
problems (besides of others slippering into my front bumper).
Basically,
I only had to use the chains once. Of course they will only mounted on the rear
tires as we have 55% of tracion normally there. I swaer on the COntinental
Winter Sports made for Porsches and use the 235/45 - 17 size on the stock
wheels. The chains do fit them well but my car is not lowered at all. With
H&R springs I do see problems then. I'd buy some good winter tires on older
wheels as the chains are normally only used for good downhill breaking than for
traction. I had a 10% downhill road where I had to climb up on pressed snow. A
Volkswagen with chains was stuck uphill and I had to stop behind him (without
chains). I then was able to climb up again without troubles and everybody was
starring at a sportscar that is able to do this ;-)) Back down in the evening
was too dangerous for me and this is why I installed the chains. But as said,
lowering the car is not a good idea for cars used in
winter.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- original Nachricht
--------
All -
Does anyone have any experience with what chains
do/don't work on a VR-4?
I'd hate to have to buy traction tires just for a
few days of winter driving
and occational trips to the ski slopes out here in
the great NW. I've got a
1994 VR-4 with stock 17' rims and tire size,
and the H&R lowering springs
installed (these could make things really
complicated, I fear).
I know I'll get at least a few responses
telling me just not to drive in the
snow, but this is my daily driver, so
I'll have to find a way to make it
work.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 08:29:01
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stutter with low fuel
more likely condensate in the gas
tank. coincident with a big change in
weather conditions? maybe a bad
tank of gas from the gas station. siphon it
all out and look at it.
water in gasoline looks like Staarbucks Frappacino.
refill and add some STP
Gas Treatment that will help get rid of remaining
moisture. and replace
the fuel filter.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Zobel, Kurt [SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
> Sent: Monday, November 26,
2001 12:05 PM
> To: Will Fortenberry; Team 3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Stutter with low fuel
>
> Could be blockage, perhaps the fuel
filter?
> Otherwise, check voltage(s) to the fuel pump and line pressure
at the
> rails.
> I am not familiar with the pickup tube to the
pump, not sure if it could
> come loose or get blocked in some way.
>
> Kurt
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Will Fortenberry
[mailto:BigWill_VR4@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 4:26
PM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Team3S: Stutter with low fuel
>
> Hey all,
>
> Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.
I've been on the list for a
> while just watching. I'm having an odd
problem with my 94 VR-4 (bpu). When
> I
> get to 1/4-1/8 tank of
gas, the engine will miss very badly above 3500rpm.
> It gets worse as the
fuel level gets lower. When I put gas in the car, it
> immediately goes
away.
> In the past, I was able to go another 90 miles or so with no
problems. Any
> ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
Will
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 09:12:47
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine Stuttering/tachometer jumping
Do you have to remove
the center console to remoive the ECM in our VR4's or
can you get at it from
the inboard side carpet panel on the drivers or
passenger
side?
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Jannusch, Matt [SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Monday, November
26, 2001 11:57 AM
> To:
Team3s@team3s.com> Cc: 'Alex
Pedenko'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine Stuttering/tachometer
jumping
>
> > Is there any way to test that? I'm having a
similar issue w/
> > my '95. That plus the active aero seems to
operate on a cycle
> > - it turns on once per drive (i.e. the first
time i hit 50
> > it'll turn on. once i stop it'll turn off and not
turn back
> > on until the engine is turned off).
>
> You
don't test it, you just replace them. Requires good soldering
skill.
>
> Here are the directions for a 1G DSM car. Our
ECU's are "similar".
>
>
http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/caps.htm>
> Active aero issues are likely some other problem.
>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 08:59:54
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE:Car Options
In my 93 VR4 the module is behind the carpet
on the outboard side of the
driver's compartment.
> However...I
wanted to buy some keyless remote, and before actually placing
> an order,
I removed the back seat to see the keyless electronic module (by
> the
back seat)
>
> No such thing in my car...and not even a connector
on the harness.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 09:21:50
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch Noises
> I was parking the car, and when I let the
clutch out to back up,
> there was a little grinding noise,like metal
shearing, but it
> stopped after the clutch was fully engaged. It
happened again
> in 1st, and reverse, and I can get it to happen pretty
much
> everytime. It's like at the end of letting off the
clutch,
> the bad sound, and then it's fine. Any ideas?
Replace your clutch soon. Sounds like you are down to the
retaining rivets
on the clutch disc. If you don't replace it soon, you
may need to buy a new
flywheel to go along with the clutch, and they aren't
terribly cheap. If
you replace it before it gets much worse you can
have the flywheel
resurfaced at a machine shop that can cut stepped
flywheels. :-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 09:25:05
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine Stuttering/tachometer jumping
> Do you have to
remove the center console to remoive the ECM
> in our VR4's or can you get
at it from the inboard side
> carpet panel on the drivers or passenger
side?
You don't have to remove the center console, just the carpeted
panels on
both sides of it. There are two bolts on the driver's side
and one or two
on the passenger side. Disconnect the wiring harnesses
(push the release
latch on each plug and pull straight out) and pull the ECU
out the driver's
side. It takes some jiggling to get it out of there,
but be patient and
it'll come out.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 10:41:48
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
>Basically, I only had to use the chains
once. Of course they will only
>mounted on the rear tires as we have 55%
of tracion normally there.
Actually, we have most of our traction in the
front because our cars have
more weight in the front. True, more torque goes
to the rear, and it will
start slipping first, but if I wanted to get out of
snow i would put the
tires in the front to get more traction. However, if I
had to climb a steep
hill, my weight split would change more towards the
rear slightly and the
rear would be a better choice.
>I know I'll
get at least a few responses telling me just not to drive in the
>snow,
but this is my daily driver, so I'll have to find a way to make
it
>work.
Yes, the manual also tells not to do it. But we know
better. ;-)
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 09:59:33
-0800 (PST)
From: AmkreadGTO <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: FS: Autopower camera mount and Sony Hi8
camcorder..
eekk.. I paid over $120 for it yrs ago... I guess
they
lowered the price... =(
It came with some strap but i dont
remember where I
placed it.. I have been running it w/o a strap and
the
videos came out fine.. but i guess for safety reasons,
u can strap it
down easily with some imagination~ =)
How about buy the dame camera and
I'll throw in the
camera mount for free! Reason Im selling is cuz
I'm
looking to buy a miniDV... damn this technology bug!!
Any other
road racers running w/o a camera??? Video of
oneself racing inside a car is a
must!! =)
/George
- --- Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
wrote:
> It retails for $99 at I/O port racing..to be honest,
> and
he doesnt show
> the safety strap for it.
>
> On Wed, 28 Nov
2001, AmkreadGTO wrote:
>
> > Hello All,
> >
>
> These items are great for the road racers! Check
> the
> >
following url for more info and pix...
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=16a28849be500147d59cd0c56218dc21&threadid=55670>
>
> > (Cut & paste the url if link does not work)
> >
> > Email me privately if interested.
> >
> >
Thanks!
> >
> > Best,
> > George
> ---
>
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 13:27:25
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Cleaning Aluminum
Have a APR GT-I Alloy spoiler for my car... Was
wondering whats the
best way to clean it up, and maybe make it shine a little
more... It's
pretty flat colored aluminum...
- -Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 11:54:07
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cleaning Aluminum
Nothin like a little elbow grease and some
aluminum polish.
On Thu, 29 Nov 2001, cody wrote:
> Have a APR
GT-I Alloy spoiler for my car... Was wondering whats the
> best way to
clean it up, and maybe make it shine a little more... It's
> pretty flat
colored aluminum...
>
> -Cody
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 15:21:53
-0500
From: Joe Kenwabikise <
jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch Noises
Well, I was planning on putting in a new,
possibly lightened, flywheel
anyway, so it's all good. Is it safe to at
least drive (~20 miles
highway) to the garage to do the
work?
Joe
91 RT/TT black
"Jannusch, Matt" wrote:
>
> > I was parking the car, and when I let the clutch out to back
up,
> > there was a little grinding noise,like metal shearing, but
it
> > stopped after the clutch was fully engaged. It happened
again
> > in 1st, and reverse, and I can get it to happen pretty
much
> > everytime. It's like at the end of letting off the
clutch,
> > the bad sound, and then it's fine. Any ideas?
>
> Replace your clutch soon. Sounds like you are down to the
retaining rivets
> on the clutch disc. If you don't replace it soon,
you may need to buy a new
> flywheel to go along with the clutch, and they
aren't terribly cheap. If
> you replace it before it gets much worse
you can have the flywheel
> resurfaced at a machine shop that can cut
stepped flywheels. :-)
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 14:44:26
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch Noises
> Well, I was planning on putting in a new,
possibly lightened,
> flywheel anyway, so it's all good. Is it safe
to at least
> drive (~20 miles highway) to the garage to do the
work?
If the clutch is good enough to hold long enough for you to get
there, yeah
- - it should be okay. Try not to slip the clutch much if
possible though, it
sounds like it is very near the end of the line.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 15:09:22
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch Noises
Yes, but take my advise and don't race any
Hondas on the way there no matter
how bad they provoke you; or this could be
your fate, along with a LARGE
towing bill:
http://people.mn.mediaone.net/crdeutsch/Christophers_reallybad_clutch.JPGhttp://people.mn.mediaone.net/crdeutsch/Bad_reallybad.JPG(Autopsy
pics courtesy of Mark Wendlandt)
Also, if you do what I did, I hear it's
really messy to cleanup. Right
Mark? ;)
Christopher (New Clutch
and Flywheel) Deutsch
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jannusch,
Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, November 29, 2001 2:44 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch
Noises
> > Well, I was planning on putting in a new, possibly
lightened,
> > flywheel anyway, so it's all good. Is it safe to
at least
> > drive (~20 miles highway) to the garage to do the
work?
>
> If the clutch is good enough to hold long enough for you
to get there,
yeah
> - it should be okay. Try not to slip the
clutch much if possible though,
it
> sounds like it is very near the
end of the line.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 14:16:44
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine Stuttering/tachometer jumping
ECM removal
instructions:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius5/j5-2-ecmremoval.htmJust
remove the carpeted panels on each side of the floor console.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ---
"Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
wrote:
> Do you have to remove the center console to remoive the ECM in
our
> VR4's or can you get at it from the inboard side carpet panel
on
> the drivers or
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 14:14:12
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
> Of course they will only mounted on
the rear tires as we
> have 55% of tracion normally there.
This is
I think the second time I have read the mention of "55%
traction" on the rear
tires or "more torque" on the rear tires for
our cars.
How are you
folks determining that?
Roughly a year ago, I demonstrated that torque
split must be 50/50
front rear for our cars in *non-slip* situations.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-AWD3.htmBy
definition, a fixed "torque split" is not applied in *slip*
situations for
our type of differentials (viscous coupling type,
center and rear). This is
because torque is directed in variable
amounts to the axle (or shaft) that
spins slower (not slipping).
Theoretically (but probably not
practically), we could have 100% of
engine torque going to one rear tire
(other three are slipping or
have no traction). For our (or any) open front
differential, torque
is always directed to the axle that spins fastest (least
traction or
slipping tires).
So why are folks still mentioning 45/55
F/R torque split, etc. in
obvious slip situations (winter driving where
chains might be
needed)?
Please note that I have no experience driving
my Stealth TT in winter
months here in Colorado (it's stored). But I have
seen my wife's AWD
Subaru Legacy stuck in 4" of snow/ice because of poor tire
treads.
AWD, but no traction. My 4WD Mitsu pickup easily towed the car
home.
Thanks,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 17:26:45
-0500
From: Danno <
palermod@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Reprise:BS Coming ON!!!
Okay, here's what I've done to date
regarding this problem. I thought
I'd run it by you guys one last time,
cuz my next stop is the dealer and
I can tell they've got $$ in their
eyes!!
I took the car back to the guy that changed out the clutch. He
tells me
he never got the half shafts out of the hubs, but dissassembled
the
suspension in some way so as to get the tranny out. Hence,
he's
doubting that the ABS problem (the brakes pump, as though I'm
skidding
on ice, with moderate breaking pressure. ABS light is NOT on,
and
removing the fuse allows the car to brake normally. And, the ABS
dash
light IS on if the fuse is out.).
He 'blew' out the sensors, but
noted that the fit there is very tight
and he didn't really think dirt was
the issue.
I had to change the rotors anyway, so I did that. I
noticed that the
inboard pad on the front left was worn to a much greater
degree. The
pistons of that caliper do move freely now. So, new
pads/rotors on the
front, new pads on the back.
Someone mentioned a
'float' in the brake cylinder that might have
something to do with it.
Can anyone elaborate more on that? What else
might cause this symptom,
and how would I go about checking things out?
I'm scheduled to have the
dealer run the computer code to diagnose the
problem, but I'm recently out
almost $1200 in parts and labor for the
tranny/brakes and he's charging an
hour's labor just to do the diagnosis
($80/hr!!!!). So any help you
guys could give me would be greatly
appreciated!
I guess I could
always just run the car with the ABS fuse out. Would
that be
safe?
Thanks again for all the help! It's most
appreciated!
- - Dan
'95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 16:30:55
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Reprise:BS Coming ON!!!
> I had to change the rotors
anyway, so I did that. I noticed
> that the inboard pad on the
front left was worn to a much
> greater degree. The pistons of that
caliper do move freely
> now. So, new pads/rotors on the front, new
pads on the back.
Did you replace the rotors with the right ones?
Ones with ABS sensor
"flanges" on them? Were they replaced before or
after the problem with the
ABS cropped up?
> I guess I could always
just run the car with the ABS fuse
> out. Would that be
safe?
As safe as a regular car without ABS. It won't hurt the car
any to run it
that way, but you'll be able to lock your brakes.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 17:56:19
-0500
From: "Shane Swan" <
kaiou_182@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: dead speedomoter
If anybody can help me please do.. here's my
situation:
On the way to school this morning my speedomoter decides to do
a jumping
action with a 20 mph difference..Odd?..after hitting
40mph(estimation) it
decides to quit on me..i've tried everything to my
knowledge to make that
needle work again. and i've figured out that
i'm not putting any more miles
on my car. i've been stuck at 141023 for the
last 50 miles or so..good?..And
at least i still have my rmp guage :) well
if you have any idea what-so-ever
that might be wrong w/ my car please help
me out.
Thank you,
Shane Swan
Kaiou_182@hotmail.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 17:10:38
-0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Reprise:BS Coming ON!!!
Matt,
The "abs flanges" as you
call them or abs rotor as the manual calls them are
part of the CV axle
assembly.
If he removed the spindle with CV axle attached, he had to
remove the
sensors, at which point, they could have been damaged. I
would have thought
that the abs light would come on if there was a problem
with the sensors
though(broken wire,
etc...)
Mark
>From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>To:
"'Danno'" <
palermod@pilot.msu.edu>, Team 3S
<
Team3S@team3s.com>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Reprise:BS Coming ON!!!
>Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 16:30:55
-0600
>
> > I had to change the rotors anyway, so I did
that. I noticed
> > that the inboard pad on the front left was
worn to a much
> > greater degree. The pistons of that caliper do
move freely
> > now. So, new pads/rotors on the front, new pads
on the back.
>
>Did you replace the rotors with the right
ones? Ones with ABS sensor
>"flanges" on them? Were they
replaced before or after the problem with the
>ABS cropped
up?
>
> > I guess I could always just run the car with the ABS
fuse
> > out. Would that be safe?
>
>As safe as a
regular car without ABS. It won't hurt the car any to run it
>that
way, but you'll be able to lock your brakes.
>
>-Matt
>'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 00:05:24
+0100 (MET)
From: <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: Reprise:BS Coming ON!!!
> Did you replace the rotors
with the right ones? Ones with ABS sensor
> "flanges" on
them?
The ABS sensor is on the spindle and is not related to the
rotors.
> I guess I could always just run the car with the ABS fuse
> out. Would that be safe?
As Matt already said, it is as
safe as just driving a car without ABS. More important is that you are aware of
not having ABS anymore so you should be preparred for emergency situation
then.
For diagnostic, you can pull one ABS sensor and then you shoudl get
the ABS lamp. If the lamp (assuming the bulb is ok) is off, also no ABS code is
set. Therefore code scanning is a waste of ressources. In the early years, my
mechanic was able to hook up the diagnose tool and read everything out within 5
Minutes and I paid nothing for this.
More like it sounds like the old ABS
Pump Problem but then the ABS light should come on too. Therefore the ABS ECU
may be the problem as it seems to tel lthe ECU that everything is just fine.
Last but not least, what about a leak or just too much air in the brake system ?
Who bled the lines and was the car running when it was done ?
Just some
thoughts
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 17:07:28
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: no AWD traction
Jeff said:
>Please note that I have no
experience driving my Stealth TT in winter
>months here in Colorado (it's
stored). But I have seen my wife's AWD
>Subaru Legacy stuck in 4" of
snow/ice because of poor tire treads.
>AWD, but no traction. My 4WD Mitsu
pickup easily towed the car home.
>
I am reminded at this juncture of
an episode from my rally days (everything
reminds me of rallying).
In
1972, the Jeep Wagoneers were king of the hill with their
torque-biasing
fulltime 4WD and 500+ hp V8 motors. They even beat Yurpean
works rally cars
(badly!) on the 1973 Press On Regardless world championship
rally,
finishing 1 and 2. They were so big and bad, they would make their
own
trails through the ice, snow, bushes, small trees and whatnot. After
their
resounding POR victory, American Motors was planning a major effort to
take
the Wagoneers to the African Safari, Acropolis, and other strut-bustin'
WRC
rallies, and they intended to win!
The Wagoneers were so
invincible that the FIA outlawed 4WD from world
championship rallying until
the Yurpeans could develop their own AWD cars,
which they obviously did, a
few years later. There was NO WAY the FIA was
going to let any American car
company have a competitive edge.
So there we were, running against
the invincible Wagoneers on the Sunriser
400 Pro rally. We came upon
one off the road, high-centered on a tree
stump, with all four wheels off the
ground, and the crew frantically trying
to winch it one way or another in an
attempt to find traction somewhere. We
laughed all the way to the next
control.
Just goes to show you: You gotta get all that power to the
ground, or it
don't work.
Rich/slow old poop
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 18:13:46
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
tranny issues
Hi Kraig,
I have some info on where to get tranny
parts and rebuilt trannies on my
Links page at
http://www.daveblack.net/asp/3000GTLinks.aspI
would try MD Auto in Cali. I have found their prices to be cheaper
than
Kormex. I have a replacement from them and it seems to work
great. You can
try using Redline Shockproof for your fluid to help
minimize that "notchy"
feeling.
HTH
Dave 95VR4
The ULTIMATE
3000GT/Stealth Resource -
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 18:20:33
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: tranny issues
> You can try using Redline Shockproof for
your fluid
> to help minimize that "notchy" feeling.
I thought the
Shockproof wasn't recommended for trannies, only differentials
and transfer
cases. MTL or MT-90 is for trannies with synchronizer rings
(which ours
have).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 08:01:45
-0500
From: "eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Suspension
I was reading through the archives to check up on suspensions.
I was
wondering if anyone has a recommendation. ('93 Stealth ES) Are there
any
good OE parts other than the original parts from
thedealership?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 19:59:29
-0500
From: Curtis McConnell <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject:
Team3S: HKS SSBOV with 18+ psi of boost.
After running the car at 20psi
the BOV doesn't sound the same as at 15. Do I
need to adjust the screw on the
back? Anyone else have experience with this?
Curtis
1995 Vr-4
Spyder
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 22:48:48
EST
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: ECU
problems, part II
Hey all:
I pulled the ECU out of the Stealth
last night, and took it apart to check the Capacitors, as recommended. I will be
replacing them as a precaution, because even though they don't look too bad, it
seems to be time, given that the car is a 1991. What I did find that was
remarkable was that next to C104 (the 100uf/16v) capacitor, the C6 capacitor was
leaking, which is not of the "canister type". Looks like a flat resistor, much
like the resistors elsewhere on the board. Does anyone have a schematic of
this board that could tell me what the value of "C6" is? Any help would be
appreciated.
Thanks.
- -Thor (1991 Dodge Stealth R/T
Turbo)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 22:50:56
EST
From:
Luckyslug@aol.comSubject: Team3S: 91
3000GT problem
After a hard rain, my 91 3000GT SL with 204,500
miles doesnt seem to want to start. If
it even does start on the first
try, it sometimes cuts off a second later with a struggle to
keep
running. the whole time it struggles i hear a clicking noise coming
from
somewhere in the dash. after adding water remover and such, it
started working fine for
a about 2 weeks until the next hard rain. in
the after morning it wont even fire, it just
cranks. after doing that
about 6 times it will only then start to fire before it keeps cutting
off.....and a few more times again of starting it and it will stay on.
after that it runs fine
and starts up fine unless i let it sit out to
long and it has a hard timestarting up again(if
its still wet out that
is). this time around i discovered that shaking the car helps it
to
start easier and faster....not the usuall 5-15 times. anyone know
what it could it be?
Thanks
Steven
Nashville
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 23:23:48
-0500
From: "Bill Miller" <
millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
Just to add my 2 cents worth here (after CAD
exchange .08 cents!)...
My advice to anyone that may be thinking about
using a 3S in the winter is go right ahead. Also if
you can find chains that
fit and don't come off, then go ahead and use them... personally I'd keep
the speeds down and not attempt to do a winter rally with them, but other
than that go for it. I
use good snow tires on my 91 and I don't have any
problems in snow up to 25 cm (1 foot) deep. The
"massive" weight of our cars
can be a real asset with skinny tires ... just remember Newtons 1st
law
("Everything wants to keep on doing what it's already doing" i.e. 100 Kph, 90
degree bend =
Splat! into the ditch!). I would get worried with deep snow
and a lowered car, but other than that
you should be fine.
As to the
45/55 split, let me attempt to convince anyone that hasn't tried it, if you
stomp on the
gas in snow you will have the rear end dance around for a bit
until the front tires bite in and get
you moving. It is a lot of fun to turn
the steering wheel and gun it and shoot snow all over the
place to make like
a rally driver wanna be.
Bill
91 TT "Old Red"
(a.k.a. "The big red
toboggan" with summer tires on it at the moment)
On 29 Nov 2001, at
14:14, Jeff Lucius wrote:
> > Of course they will only mounted on
the rear tires as we
> > have 55% of traction normally there.
>
...
> So why are folks still mentioning 45/55 F/R torque split,
etc. in
> obvious slip situations (winter driving where chains might
be
> needed)?
>
> Please note that I have no experience
driving my Stealth TT in winter
> months here in Colorado (it's stored).
But I have seen my wife's AWD
> Subaru Legacy stuck in 4" of snow/ice
because of poor tire treads.
> AWD, but no traction. My 4WD Mitsu pickup
easily towed the car home.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.comHumpty
Dumpty was pushed...
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 17:55:38
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECU problems, part II
Hi
You need to look at it more
carefully.The electrolytic capacitors are the
only ones that CAN leak. The
first one to go is always the one nearest the
green transistor. That is the 5
volt regulator. The leaks follow gravity.
Thats why I said in previous post
to clean the crud off the board. Once
you've done that you might find tracks
eaten away.
Steve
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#687
***************************************
