Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, November 28 2001 Volume 01 :
Number
686
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Nov 2001 22:59:06 -0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 1/4 mile ET question (math question?)
This is the kind of... math
that belongs on Team-3S, regardless of the context!
I think this math is
good enough to tell how many car lengths one car is
behind the other. In
real life you will need to use RT1+ET1-RT2-ET2 to
calculate the time
difference.
Philip
At 09:19 PM 11/27/01, Bill vP wrote:
>I
have a question about differences in ET and how far back that you
think
>someone would be with a slower ET.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 23:15:34
-0500
From: "Bill vP" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1/4 mile ET question (math question?)
Yes, I know this, and
that is why I only used ET as the determining factor.
So by my method, with
the 2 cars with different traps and identical ET, then
the difference in ET
would be zero, so that would be the number used.
Therefore to determine how
far "back" the "2nd" car would be, you would see
how far a car would travel
in zero seconds at 100 mph. The result would of
course be zero feet, so
the reasoning would hold in this case also.
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
To: Bill vP <
billvp@highstream.net>
Sent:
Tuesday, November 27, 2001 10:47 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1/4 mile ET question
(math question?)
> Sure but acceleration times through the traps are
never equal through
> the gears thats why you can have identical finish
times and much
> different speed through the finish trap.
>
>
Bill vP wrote:
> >
> > I have a question about differences in
ET and how far back that you
think
> > someone would be with a
slower ET. I know that every run would be a
little
> >
different, but is the following scenario valid?
> >
> > Let's
say that both car 1 and car 2 have the same reaction time, and
both
>
> accelerate normally.
> > Car 1 is the faster car and finishes in
13.0 seconds
> > Car 2 finishes in 13.5 seconds and traps at ~100
mph
> >
> > Now the question is, how far behind car 1 is car 2
when it goes thru the
> > traps, i.e. finishes ?
> >
>
> Trap speed for the quicker car would seem to be irrelevant.
> >
Now by my reasoning, since car 1 finishes 0.5 seconds faster, then
you
can
> > use that 0.5 seconds as a time difference. Then
you see how far car 2
> > travels at ~100 mph (the trap) in 0.5
seconds
> >
> > Now 100 mph is about equal to 147 ft per
second, so car 2 would have
> > traveled about 74 ft in the last 0.5
seconds, and this is the difference
> > between the two cars (in
length). So for every 0.1 seconds back in ET
(+\-
> > rt if
necessary) a 100 mph trapping car would be about 15 ft behind,
which
>
> is about 1 car length for every 0.1 seconds back for a 100 mph
trapping
car.
> >
> > Is there some fatal flaw in this
reasoning?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 20:44:27
-0800 (PST)
From: Oleg Malkin <
olegmalkin@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Car dies in reverse
This problem started today:
Evrything
seemed to be normal except when I put it in
reverse, after filling up the gas
tank, the car died.
I have an auto transmission and now every time I
put
it in reverse it either drops the rps to like 100 or
it just dies. The
car has 115K miles on it and it is a
93, so maybe there is something that
needs to be done
now? I need help,
quick.
Oleg
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 17:54:57
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine stuttering/Tach Jumping
Personally I dont think that a
bad ECU is the cause of your problem. I had
problems like that on my old 351
Cleveland. A bad plug, bad plug lead,
faulty coil all possibilities. On the
Cleveland I had tracking on the dizzy
cap and on another occasion a bad
pionts condenser ( capacitor ) all caused
the same problem.
Sure
rebuild the ECU it will need doing anyway. Add solder to the old caps
before
you remove them and remember to clean the crud off the board
after
you've removed the old caps. Leave the new caps standing high off
the board
so you can solder them on both sides of the board. Good
luck.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 22:35:28
-0500
From: "Boris" <
BPeguero@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Parts for Sale
Hello everybody,
I have 2 1991 Stealth R/T
TT aluminum heads for sale, complete with cam and
valve assembly ($600 +
shipping).
Exhaust manifolds ($150 + shipping)
Intake manifold and plenum
with throttle body ($180 + shipping)
6 stock injectors ($50 + shipping)
6
iridium spark plugs with under 500 miles on them ($25 + shipping)
GTR combat
wing painted black with white accents (includes a third brake
light) ($200 +
shipping-- excellent buy)
OEM spoiler ($40 +shipping)
Please e-mail me
privately if you are interested in any of these items. All
of these
parts come from my 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T TT.
Thank
you,
Boris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 22:51:19
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Car dies in reverse
Bet it's the gas. Maybe you got some
water. Try an additive, like DryGas.
Go back to the station and yell at
them.
Rich
At 08:44 PM 11/27/01 -0800, Oleg Malkin wrote:
>This
problem started today:
>Evrything seemed to be normal except when I put it
in
>reverse, after filling up the gas tank, the car died.
>I have an
auto transmission and now every time I put
>it in reverse it either drops
the rps to like 100 or
>it just dies. The car has 115K miles on it and it
is a
>93, so maybe there is something that needs to be done
>now? I
need help,
quick.
>
>
Oleg
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 1996 12:58:35
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ECU capacitor replacement
I have a Weller soldering iron made for PC
board type
work --- it is 60 Watts with a fairly fine tip
The key is
to use as little heat as possible --- you need to
melt the solder but you
don't want to burn the board.
Jim Berry
=====================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, November 27, 2001 1:17 PM
Subject: Team3S: ECU capacitor
replacement
> What watt iron do you suggest ?
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Berry
[mailto:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 01, 1996 4:14 AM
>
To:
ThorHolth@aol.com;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine stuttering/Tach Jumping
>
> If it ain't
broke don't fix it.
>
> Make sure that the caps are bad before you
start pulling. If you did
> a search of the archives you'll know what to
look for ---- they will have
> electrolyte leaking from the capicitors
and they will have a fishy smell.
> The electrolyte may not be visible ---
it was, in the case of my ECU, but
> the fish smell is there if they are
leaking. You should also have a good
> solder puller --- Radio Shack
should have a suction type that is cheap.
> Use a quality soldering iron
--- the gun type usually get too hot. Too
> much heat can cause the pads
to lift from the PC board.
>
> It's not difficult but take your
time ---
>
> Jim
Berry
> ===================================================
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: <
ThorHolth@aol.com>
> To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 6:35 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Engine
stuttering/Tach Jumping
>
> > Hey all,
> >
>
> thanks for the helpful advice, I guess I must be suffering from the
"leaky
>
> > capacitor" problem. I'll be pulling the ECU
tonight, and assaulting it
> with
> > my trusty soldering
iron.
> >
> > -thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 00:27:40
-0600
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: ECU capacitor replacement
Jim,
Check the wattage on your
iron.
60 watts is very hot.
I use a 25 watt iron with a thin gage
solder.
Radio shack has a good selection. Make sure you tin the tip
of a new iron.
When soldering you need to get some heat into the lead of
the part so the
solder sticks to it.
Capacitors are pretty good with
heat. It's the IC chips that have a problem
and cook.
I agree, though,
you want to get in and get out with the iron.
If I am working on a board
and worried about heat, I keep a damp rag near by
and blot around the area to
help draw the heat off.
Rich
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
To: "Floyd, Jim"
<
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, January 01, 1996 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECU capacitor
replacement
> I have a Weller soldering iron made for PC board
type
> work --- it is 60 Watts with a fairly fine tip
>
> The
key is to use as little heat as possible --- you need to
> melt the solder
but you don't want to burn the
board.
>
> Jim
Berry
> =====================================
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
> To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 1:17 PM
> Subject: Team3S: ECU capacitor
replacement
>
> > What watt iron do you suggest ?
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jim Berry
[mailto:fastmax@home.com]
> > Sent: Monday, January 01, 1996 4:14
AM
> > To:
ThorHolth@aol.com;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine stuttering/Tach Jumping
> >
> > If
it ain't broke don't fix it.
> >
> > Make sure that the caps
are bad before you start pulling. If you did
> > a search of the
archives you'll know what to look for ---- they will
have
> >
electrolyte leaking from the capicitors and they will have a
fishy
smell.
> > The electrolyte may not be visible --- it was, in
the case of my ECU,
but
> > the fish smell is there if they are
leaking. You should also have a good
> > solder puller --- Radio Shack
should have a suction type that is cheap.
> > Use a quality soldering
iron --- the gun type usually get too hot. Too
> > much heat can cause
the pads to lift from the PC board.
> >
> > It's not difficult
but take your time ---
> >
>
> Jim Berry
> >
===================================================
> > ----- Original
Message -----
> > From: <
ThorHolth@aol.com>
> > To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 6:35 AM
> > Subject: Team3S:
Engine stuttering/Tach Jumping
> >
> > > Hey all,
>
> >
> > > thanks for the helpful advice, I guess I must be
suffering from the
"leaky
> >
> > > capacitor"
problem. I'll be pulling the ECU tonight, and assaulting
it
>
> with
> > > my trusty soldering iron.
> > >
>
> > -thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 01:52:00
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Soldering - ECU capacitor replacement
Use a low wattage soldering iron
(25 watts is good) when working with
sensitive components-- IC's,
transistors, etc. Even capacitors can only
take so much. I'd be
*very* careful with a 60 watt iron.
Try to use a 'heat sink' (something
to absorb the heat) between the
component and the solder joint, whenever
possible - clip it on the wire lead
between the heat and the part. If
there is enough space between component
and board, a tiny alligator clip or
two will work. I use a set of small
hemostats. Radio shack has a
number of different varieties of heat sinks,
and they're cheap insurance
against frying a part. A damp (not wet) rag
works, but we liked keeping
parts about to be soldered on an ice pack
covered with a dry rag. The
colder part will give you an extra second of
soldering heat before getting
damaged. Plan ahead, and work quickly, and
you'll be fine.
-
--Forrest
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Fennell"
<
realmstl@home.com>
To: "Team3S"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, November 27, 2001 10:27 PM
Subject: Fw: Team3S: ECU capacitor
replacement
> Jim,
> Check the wattage on your iron.
> 60
watts is very hot.
> I use a 25 watt iron with a thin gage solder.
>
Radio shack has a good selection. Make sure you tin the tip of a
new
iron.
> When soldering you need to get some heat into the lead of
the part so the
solder sticks to it.
> Capacitors are pretty good with
heat. It's the IC chips that have a
problem and cook.
> I agree,
though, you want to get in and get out with the iron.
> If I am working on
a board and worried about heat, I keep a damp rag near
by
> and blot
around the area to help draw the heat off.
> Rich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 06:51:51
-0800 (PST)
From: glenn amy <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 1/4 mile ET question (math question?)
Your reasoning should give
an answer that is close.
But, remember that car 2 isn't going 100mph
between
13.0 and 13.5 seconds. At 13.0 seconds, it might be
going
96. Since the average speed from 13.0 seconds
to 13.5 seconds is less
than 100, car 2 will be a foot
or 2 closer than in your
calculation.
Glenn
'93 VR-4
- --- Bill vP <
billvp@highstream.net> wrote:
>
I have a question about differences in ET and how
> far back that you
think
> someone would be with a slower ET. I know that
> every
run would be a little
> different, but is the following scenario
valid?
>
> Let's say that both car 1 and car 2 have the
same
> reaction time, and both
> accelerate normally.
> Car 1
is the faster car and finishes in 13.0 seconds
> Car 2 finishes in 13.5
seconds and traps at ~100 mph
>
> Now the question is, how far
behind car 1 is car 2
> when it goes thru the
> traps, i.e. finishes
?
>
> Trap speed for the quicker car would seem to be
>
irrelevant.
> Now by my reasoning, since car 1 finishes 0.5
>
seconds faster, then you can
> use that 0.5 seconds as a time
difference. Then you
> see how far car 2
> travels at ~100 mph
(the trap) in 0.5 seconds
>
> Now 100 mph is about equal to 147 ft
per second, so
> car 2 would have
> traveled about 74 ft in the last
0.5 seconds, and
> this is the difference
> between the two cars (in
length). So for every 0.1
> seconds back in ET (+\-
> rt if
necessary) a 100 mph trapping car would be
> about 15 ft behind,
which
> is about 1 car length for every 0.1 seconds back for
> a 100
mph trapping car.
>
> Is there some fatal flaw in this
reasoning?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 1996 23:23:50
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ECU capacitor replacement
You're right on the wattage --- 25 or so is
what I remember, I looked
at the bottom of the soldering station and it said
60 watts but that's
probably a maximum UL rating of some kind.
Jim
Berry
=========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
To: "Team3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, November 27, 2001 10:27 PM
Subject: Fw: Team3S: ECU capacitor
replacement
> Jim,
>
> Check the wattage on your
iron.
>
> 60 watts is very hot.
>
> I use a 25 watt
iron with a thin gage solder.
>
> Radio shack has a good
selection. Make sure you tin the tip of a new iron.
>
> When
soldering you need to get some heat into the lead of the part so the
>
solder sticks to it.
>
> Capacitors are pretty good with heat. It's
the IC chips that have a problem
> and cook.
>
> I agree,
though, you want to get in and get out with the iron.
>
> If I am
working on a board and worried about heat, I keep a damp rag near by
> and
blot around the area to help draw the heat off.
>
> Rich
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
> To: "Floyd, Jim"
<
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, January 01, 1996 2:58 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: ECU
capacitor replacement
>
>
> > I have a Weller soldering
iron made for PC board type
> > work --- it is 60 Watts with a fairly
fine tip
> >
> > The key is to use as little heat as possible
--- you need to
> > melt the solder but you don't want to burn the
board.
> >
> >
Jim Berry
> > =====================================
>
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Floyd, Jim"
<
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
>
> To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 1:17 PM
> > Subject: Team3S: ECU
capacitor replacement
> >
> > > What watt iron do you
suggest ?
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
>
> > From: Jim Berry [mailto:fastmax@home.com]
> > > Sent:
Monday, January 01, 1996 4:14 AM
> > > To:
ThorHolth@aol.com;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> >
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine stuttering/Tach Jumping
> >
>
> > > If it ain't broke don't fix it.
> > >
>
> > Make sure that the caps are bad before you start pulling. If you
did
> > > a search of the archives you'll know what to look for ----
they will
> have
> > > electrolyte leaking from the capicitors
and they will have a fishy
> smell.
> > > The electrolyte may
not be visible --- it was, in the case of my ECU,
> but
> > >
the fish smell is there if they are leaking. You should also have a good
>
> > solder puller --- Radio Shack should have a suction type that is
cheap.
> > > Use a quality soldering iron --- the gun type usually
get too hot. Too
> > > much heat can cause the pads to lift from the
PC board.
> > >
> > > It's not difficult but take your
time ---
> > >
> >
> Jim Berry
> > >
===================================================
> > > -----
Original Message -----
> > > From: <
ThorHolth@aol.com>
> > > To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 6:35 AM
> > > Subject:
Team3S: Engine stuttering/Tach Jumping
> > >
> > > >
Hey all,
> > > >
> > > > thanks for the helpful
advice, I guess I must be suffering from the
> "leaky
> >
>
> > > > capacitor" problem. I'll be pulling the ECU
tonight, and assaulting
> it
> > > with
> > > >
my trusty soldering iron.
> > > >
> > > >
-thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 1996 23:35:22
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
wideband O2
It's main use would be as a tuning aid ---- at a grand it's
pricey, but if a
couple of guys went in on it and used it to tune a fuel
controller it wouldn't
be too bad.
The engine computer sounds nice
also, but with all the parameters that are
adjustable and outputs available
you'd need to be smarter than I am to
fully utilize
it.
Jim
Berry
======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
To:
"'Jim Berry'" <
fastmax@home.com>;
"'Team 3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Jim/List, a couple of the MKIV guru's had bought one these a few
months
> back. These guys got them to try and do real time fueling
adjustments, they
> mounted the O2 sensor in the top of the D/P just after
the turbo(s). Yes a
> single turbo guy did try the set up and liked
it, he just didn't have 950
> bucks to drop on the kit :(
>
> They liked them allot, It should also be noted the display module (EMD)
is
> little bigger than AVC-R display....... And we have a
limited amount of
> space to mount things in our cars as is :(
>
> Another thing to note due to having two banks to monitor we may have
to
> mount the WB O2 sensor just after the Y in a D/P for decent readings
also
> mounted there you will see about 250-300 rpms of lag in your
readings if you
> use it to make "real time" adjustments to our fuels
curves.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jim Berry
[SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> > Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 9:25
PM
> > To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
3sracers@speedtoys.com> >
Subject: Team3S: wideband O2
> >
> > Anybody know about this
product or company --- Alamo is selling
> > a setup for $800 or
so.
> >
> >
http://fjoinc.com/automotive/WBO2details.htm#afrdis>
>
> >
> >
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 28 Nov 2001 07:57:54
-0800
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ECU repair
I still have capacitor sets for ECU repair(about 70)
see the following thread on 3si:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=afad74d958d3e4776ef8548e4274d1d4&threadid=47505klamathpro
on 3si will do the ECU repair for $100. I beleieve all he does is replace the
capacitors and check the ECU to see if it is working correctly(I have no clue
how he checks the ECU). IF you want to go this route don't buy capacitors
from me.
See following thread.
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=afad74d958d3e4776ef8548e4274d1d4&threadid=47086After
doing all this research and buying parts I had some electrical engineers at work
look at my ECU and the Capacitors were still good. So I am keeping as set
as a saftey backup.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 11:05:17
-0500
From: "Volthause" <
volt@vozuluzov.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ECU capacitor replacement
Sorry for getting into this discussion
so late, but soldering is one area
I've got loads of experience in... (never
experienced hell like hand
soldering a 260 pin QFP)
Are these
capacitors surface mount or through hole? The reason I ask is that
heat is an
issue, as someone already said, in that it can lift the pads off
the PCB.
However, if the capacitor is surface mount, then it was designed to
go
through in IR (infrared) oven and can withstand a lot of heat from
a
soldering iron.
With that in mind, it's difficult to say that using
some form of heatsink
would be a good idea, because to achieve full solder
wetting, you need the
pad, solder and leg of your component to be at
reasonably high and equal
temperatures, otherwise you end up with cold solder
joints which become
problematic with age and vibration.
Just my two
cents.
- -Scott Holthausen
- -'94 VR4 for sale
109,000
miles
Blue
Pristine condition
$12,500 OBO
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
To: Richard Fennell
<
realmstl@home.com>; Team3S <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, January 02, 1996 2:23 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECU capacitor
replacement
> You're right on the wattage --- 25 or so is what I
remember, I looked
> at the bottom of the soldering station and it said 60
watts but that's
> probably a maximum UL rating of some
kind.
>
> Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 10:50:31
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ECU capacitor replacement
> Jim,
> Check the wattage
on your iron.
> 60 watts is very hot.
> I use a 25 watt iron with a
thin gage solder.
I agree with this - 60 watts is very hot for circuit
board work. 60 watts
is more of a soldering "gun" type of heat for
soldering heavy gauge wiring.
A 25 watt iron is hot enough where you can
quickly get the existing solder
melted and removed without transferring a lot
of excess heat into the
circuit traces and parts.
Its also preferable
to use a grounded iron if possible.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 12:28:54
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 1/4 mile ET question (math question?)
Actually, the trap speed is
not an extraneous speed at the moment of
crossing the 1/4 mile mark. The
trap speed is the average speed of the car
over a 60" stretch between two
beams at the end of the strip (do they call
them traps?). This makes Bill's
formulas even more accurate than even if he
knew the instantaneous speed at
the end of the 1/4 mile mark.
Philip
At 08:51 AM 11/28/01, glenn
amy wrote:
>Your reasoning should give an answer that is
close.
>But, remember that car 2 isn't going 100mph between
>13.0
and 13.5 seconds. At 13.0 seconds, it might be
>going 96.
Since the average speed from 13.0 seconds
>to 13.5 seconds is less than
100, car 2 will be a foot
>or 2 closer than in your
calculation.
>
>Glenn
>'93 VR-4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 12:55:58
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 1/4 mile ET question (math question?)
OOPS! It is
"instantaneous", not "extraneous",
!@#$ spell
checker!
At 12:28 PM 11/28/01, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
>Actually,
the trap speed is not an extraneous speed at the moment of
>crossing the
1/4 mile mark. The trap speed is the average speed of the car
>over a 60"
stretch between two beams at the end of the strip (do they call
>them
traps?). This makes Bill's formulas even more accurate than even if
>he
knew the instantaneous speed at the end of the 1/4 mile
mark.
>
>Philip
>
>At 08:51 AM 11/28/01, glenn amy
wrote:
>>Your reasoning should give an answer that is
close.
>>But, remember that car 2 isn't going 100mph
between
>>13.0 and 13.5 seconds. At 13.0 seconds, it might
be
>>going 96. Since the average speed from 13.0
seconds
>>to 13.5 seconds is less than 100, car 2 will be a
foot
>>or 2 closer than in your
calculation.
>>
>>Glenn
>>'93 VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 10:02:34
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
All -
Does anyone have any experience
with what chains do/don't work on a VR-4?
I'd hate to have to buy traction
tires just for a few days of winter driving
and occational trips to the ski
slopes out here in the great NW. I've got a
1994 VR-4 with stock 17'
rims and tire size, and the H&R lowering springs
installed (these could
make things really complicated, I fear).
I know I'll get at least a
few responses telling me just not to drive in the
snow, but this is my daily
driver, so I'll have to find a way to make it
work.
Thanks!
- -
Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 10:30:35
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
You can use the easy chains without much
trouble.
On Wed, 28 Nov 2001, Geddes, Brian J wrote:
> All -
>
> Does anyone have any experience with what chains do/don't work
on a VR-4?
> I'd hate to have to buy traction tires just for a few days of
winter driving
> and occational trips to the ski slopes out here in the
great NW. I've got a
> 1994 VR-4 with stock 17' rims and tire size,
and the H&R lowering springs
> installed (these could make things
really complicated, I fear).
>
> I know I'll get at least a
few responses telling me just not to drive in the
> snow, but this is my
daily driver, so I'll have to find a way to make it
> work.
>
> Thanks!
> - Brian
- ---
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 10:17:45
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
What are "easy chains"? Is this a
brand, or just a style of chains?
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Wednesday,
November 28, 2001 10:31 AM
> To: Geddes, Brian J
> Cc: Team3S
Mailing List (E-mail); Starnet Mailing List (E-mail)
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
>
>
> You can use the easy chains
without much trouble.
>
> On Wed, 28 Nov 2001, Geddes, Brian J
wrote:
>
> > All -
> >
> > Does anyone have
any experience with what chains do/don't
> work on a VR-4?
> >
I'd hate to have to buy traction tires just for a few days
> of winter
driving
> > and occational trips to the ski slopes out here in the
> great NW. I've got a
> > 1994 VR-4 with stock 17' rims
and tire size, and the H&R
> lowering springs
> > installed
(these could make things really complicated, I fear).
> >
> > I know I'll get at least a few responses telling me just
>
not to drive in the
> > snow, but this is my daily driver, so I'll have
to find a
> way to make it
> > work.
> >
> >
Thanks!
> > - Brian
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
> ---
> Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 10:42:52
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
They look more like springs..than chains
themselves.
On Wed, 28 Nov 2001, Geddes, Brian J wrote:
> What
are "easy chains"? Is this a brand, or just a style of chains?
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Geoff
Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday,
November 28, 2001 10:31 AM
> > To: Geddes, Brian J
> > Cc:
Team3S Mailing List (E-mail); Starnet Mailing List (E-mail)
> >
Subject: Re: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
> >
> >
> >
You can use the easy chains without much trouble.
> >
> > On
Wed, 28 Nov 2001, Geddes, Brian J wrote:
> >
> > > All -
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any experience with what
chains do/don't
> > work on a VR-4?
> > > I'd hate to have
to buy traction tires just for a few days
> > of winter
driving
> > > and occational trips to the ski slopes out here in the
> > great NW. I've got a
> > > 1994 VR-4 with stock
17' rims and tire size, and the H&R
> > lowering springs
>
> > installed (these could make things really complicated, I
fear).
> > >
> > > I know I'll get at least a few
responses telling me just
> > not to drive in the
> > >
snow, but this is my daily driver, so I'll have to find a
> > way to
make it
> > > work.
> > >
> > >
Thanks!
> > > - Brian
> > ---
> > Geoff
Mohler
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 12:54:30
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Apexi AVCR question
I have my AVCR set to 1.00 kg/cm^2 across all RPM
bands and all other
settings appear to be set correctly. I occasionally
see the AVCR max boost
up to 1.10 kg/cm^2 which worries me about overboosting
as I am still on a
stock fuel setup. I have the RPM wire hooked into
the setup from the ECU so
it should be learning my settings.
I
have 2 questions though:
1. How do I verify that the AVCR is in learn
mode?
2. Why does it "overboost" to 1.10 when I have it set to 1.00
across all RPM
bands?
TIA
Dave 95VR4
The ULTIMATE
3000GT/Stealth Resource -
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 14:09:22
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
I plan to pilot mine right through the winter
here in Pittsburgh, PA
(where we have more slush and sleet and black ice than
packed down snow
like Erie, PA where I attended college). I have the
Bridgestone Blizzak
tires. Others swear by the Pirelli snow tires (the
one in Montana no
less).
If it is an occasional trip then those easy
chains are nice (or whatever
brand Sears and Pep Boys sells that you drive
over, snap together, and
drive away. But chains on summer tires will
most likely not be great.
Better, but not great unless they cover so much of
the tread that you
won't slide much.
For $150 per tire it is so easy
to get 4 snow tires. If you get into
one accident with summer tires and
have to pay your $500 deductible to
the insurance ... then that just about
paid for the snow tires.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Blizzak snow tires
soon
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
Sent:
Wednesday, November 28, 2001 13:03
All -
Does anyone have
any experience with what chains do/don't work on a
VR-4?
I'd hate to have
to buy traction tires just for a few days of winter
driving
and occational
trips to the ski slopes out here in the great NW. I've
got a
1994
VR-4 with stock 17' rims and tire size, and the H&R
lowering
springs
installed (these could make things really complicated, I
fear).
I know I'll get at least a few responses telling me just not
to drive in
the
snow, but this is my daily driver, so I'll have to find a
way to make it
work.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 14:17:42
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Apexi AVCR question
Hey Dave!!
I've found that AVC-R
tuning is a fine science. Often times, mine overboosts
for a fraction
of a second when I tromp it at mid-rpm's. I think it is a
function of
the turbo's nature at that rpm, and the BC just can't adjust
quick
enough.
Anyhow, here's how I tune AVC-R's now (I've done
4):
Set Boost to desired level
Duty to 50-70% across the board, depending
on mods (I start mine at 65, see
mods)
Learn mode on for 2nd-5th
gears
Gear Start Duty for 1st = 50%, +/- 0% for the rest
Be sure you have
the gear ratios correct in Gear Judge
I only give the car about 20-25 WOT
runs to let it tune, any more, and it will
continue turning up the boost, and
overboost.
I get up to 3k in 1st gear, then shift 2nd (2k-2.5k rpm), and
tromp it. Take it
as close to 7k as you can. Do the same for 3rd,
shift low rpm from 2nd, and
wind it from 2k-7k in 3rd (highway preferred
=).
In this stage, you should be watching max boost level. If you
are too high or
too low, turn down/up (respectively) the Duty Cycle (not
Start Duty) to adjust.
When you are maxing out at .95 bar and you want 1.00,
you are in good shape. Go
ahead and make a bunch of runs, and mix 2k-7k
runs with 4k-7k runs, ALWAYS WOT.
Once you start seeing 1.0 or real close
on the max, change over to the Y
graphing mode. Set it to plot Boost,
hit Next until it is keeping all values
(the others will erase old values),
and then make a few runs.
Don't forget to let the car cool every once in
a while, too hot will throw off
your values too. Even shut the car off
and let the AVC-R reset, it will bring
up your learned Duty Cycles.
When you see *** in Duty Cycle at this point, you
know it is
learning.
After you make a few runs, note which rpm ranges are low or
high in boost and
adjust them in the specific rpm ranges for Duty
Cycle. Once you get a solid 1.0
bar from 2.5k-5.5k, and are falling off
slowly to redline, YOU ARE SET. Turn
off learn mode and be happy.
=)
Any other Q's, feel free!
Ken
- --
Ken Stanton
'91
Pearl White Stealth RT/TT
3Si Rochester (NY)
FIPK, HKS Dual
Exhaust
AVC-R (1.2bar), Triad Alky Injection
Improved Precats
HKS
SSBOV
Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Konig Flight 17"
6 speed conversion, RPS Stage
II
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
007KEN spark plug plate, license plates
ASC sunroof,
white Ram emblem
Best (pathetic) time:
13.5 @ 104mph (1.2 bar w/
poorly tuned alky)
"Black, Dave (ICT)" wrote:
> I have my AVCR
set to 1.00 kg/cm^2 across all RPM bands and all other
> settings appear
to be set correctly. I occasionally see the AVCR max boost
> up to
1.10 kg/cm^2 which worries me about overboosting as I am still on a
>
stock fuel setup. I have the RPM wire hooked into the setup from the ECU
so
> it should be learning my settings.
>
> I have 2 questions
though:
>
> 1. How do I verify that the AVCR is in learn
mode?
>
> 2. Why does it "overboost" to 1.10 when I have it set to
1.00 across all RPM
> bands?
>
> TIA
>
> Dave
95VR4
> The ULTIMATE 3000GT/Stealth Resource -
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 13:56:22
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Chains on a VR-4?
My advice is to buy a winter rat for
driving in inclement weather. I have a
92 Eagle Talon TSi for this purpose.
It cost me $2,000 and the insurance
company thinks it is my daily driver
(well, it is, when it rains or snows).
Your insurance costs will plummet when
you designate the VR4 as a weekend car.
As for chains...boy, I'd hate to
see what would happen if it flung a chain
right into the intercooler, or
wrapped one around a front halfshaft.
Rich/slow old poop
At 10:02
AM 11/28/01 -0800, Geddes, Brian J wrote:
>All -
>
>Does
anyone have any experience with what chains do/don't work on a
VR-4?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 00:00:18
-0500
From: Joe Kenwabikise <
jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: more transmission woes...
I just took my car out for spin, since
I haven't driven it in while
(~week), and everything was all fine and stuff
until I got back home.
Now for a little background on some problems I've had
lately. The
clutch is about to say it's final goodbye, and is slipping
a lot in 3rd
and higher. I have the famous 2nd gear synchro
problem. Finally, the
hydraulic system for the clutch is leaking, but
only when the clutch
pedal is depressed and held. This has caused some
headaches, so that's
getting fixed soon. Anyway, the problem that
happened tonight was kinda
odd. I was parking the car, and when I let
the clutch out to back up,
there was a little grinding noise, like metal
shearing, but it stopped
after the clutch was fully engaged. It
happened again in 1st, and
reverse, and I can get it to happen pretty much
everytime. It's like at
the end of letting off the clutch, the bad
sound, and then it's fine.
Any ideas?
Sorry for the length,
but TIA!
Joe
91 RT/TT black
*** Info:
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------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#686
***************************************