Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, November 27 2001
Volume 01 : Number
685
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 26 Nov 2001 20:08:59 -0600
From: David Allison <
daedel@mac.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil
Burning Probs
> Yes, its me... again... I have a 94 3000gt which I
think is burning
> oil. For the first week of driving it after buying it
from the guy I
> would belch the blue smog of death whenever at low
speeds or idling
> (accelerator pushed down slightly or whatever). This
last weekend I
> drove about 70 miles on I-49 to a State Park to camp. It
was hilly in
> the camp and I was forced to travel at low speeds which
gave me a lot
> of blue smoke. Since driving back Sunday night most if
not all of the
> smoke has dissapeared. I added a quart of Mobil 1 10W30
synthetic to
> top the oil off which I think looked low on the dip stick.
(I'm
> confused on this point because all there is on the dip stick is
two
> indentations and the wiggly part above them: someone please clarify
for
> me!) Still no smoke problems. I get home from driving 150 miles or
so
> today (Baton Rouge-Lafayette and back, twice), and just to see if I
can
> get any smoke I rev the engine up to 7000 RPM which gives me some
> smoke, but not nearly as much. The oil seems low again however, When I
> filled up with the synthetic it was at almost 3/4s (upward) between the
> two indentations but now its just below half way between them, but it
> could be my mistake on that part. I got on the phone with a Mitsu
> mechanic and he said it was probably bad valve seals. Some people over
> here in Lafayette at Hi-Tech Motorsports seem to think bad rings
> maybe (???). The mitsu guy quoted me about 800-900 total to do the
> valves which seems a little excessive. I do not want to pay the money
> but I'm still pretty sure it may be burning a little bit of oil. I will
> check the PCV valve just in case but I really doubt that is the root of
> my problems. Remember when considering all of this, it smoked for about
> a week and all of a sudden seemed to quit, about 2 days ago (after the
> first rain its been in since I had it). Thanks in advance for putting
> up with all of my crap.
>
> P.S. The oil pressure gauge
still reads in between the two marks above
> about
2/3rds.
>
> -David
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 18:29:35
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine stuttering/Tach Jumping
The most common reason for the
ECM "going bad" is leaking capacitors.
John Monnin (see 3SI board) was (and
may still be) selling the 3
capacitors we need at $5.00 shipped. Any
competant electronics shop
can do the repair if you do not trust yourself
with a soldering iron.
If you just want to send the ECM somewhere (for
testing and repair),
contact one of six ECM repair shops I list in the
"Specialty" section
of the HUGE Links Page at my web site. Dealers will want
to charge
you ~$1000 for a new one.
Instructions for DSM ECM capacitor
replacement (similar to ours):
http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/caps.htmECM
removal:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius5/j5-2-ecmremoval.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ---
ThorHolth@aol.com wrote:
> Okay,
further investigation/reading on the internet suggests that I
> might have
a bad ECU. if that's the case, where can I get mine
> repaired without
giving up my firstborn?
>
> -Thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 23:27:43
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Traction Control
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, November 26, 2001 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Traction
Control
>What type of car do you have? This list is for
3000GT/Stealth cars,
>none of which have "traction control" in any
electronic sense. All
>the factory turbocharged models have all-wheel
drive, which is
>full-time and automatic in a mechanical sense. Some
for-Japan
>non-turbo models have AWD also. Just look for a differential
between
>the rear two wheels (the transfer case and propeller shaft give
it
>away also).
>>Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>: RE:Traction
Control
>
>How can I check to see if my car has traction
control?
>
>Thanks,
- -----------
It's not nearly as cut and dry as that ....
Our four-wheel-drive
system consists of a center
differential with a limited-slip viscous
coupling.
The rear differential also uses a viscous coupling.
If
slip occurs, torque is sent to the tires with greater traction.
- -
tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 15:31:51
+0700
From: "CV. Duta Karya Teknik" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject:
Team3S: BLUE SMOKE
Hi Guys,
When I accelerate hardly I see a light
blue smoke comes out from tail pipe,
but whenever it idles blue smoke never
comes out.
Should it come out because valve guide seal damage or broken
piston rings,
please advise.
For your info that blue smoke will come out
whenever I push acceleration
pedal hardly.
How to remove and replace valve
guide, does it easier job or difficult job
and what special tool that I must
have it.
Should I take out camshaft sensor carefully and what should I must
know or
remember about this sensor so that whenever I reinstall it the sensor
seats
at correctly place and will never have a problem.
Your kindly
assistant will be highly appreciated
Regards,
Harry
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 07:47:14
-0500
From:
AMastrangelo@giwindustries.comSubject:
Team3S: RE:Tapping Noise
Hey All,
When I start
my car up in the morning the temperature is about 60
degrees or lower. It
just started making a tapping noise loud, but when the
car warms up, it goes
away.The car has 153,000 miles on it, and no major
problems that I know of. I
recently changed the oil and put in castrol
synthetic blend 10w30. Would it
help if I put a thicker oil in it?
Thanks,
Anthony
1992
GT/SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 06:27:08
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spark Plugs Question?
Many of us also use copper plugs
without problems. I only put
3000-6000 miles/year on my '92 TT so don't
really care about 60,000
mile plug change intervals. I use NGK BCPR6ES-11
copper spark plugs
at 0.030" gap (~$1.60 each plug at Checker Auto). As Todd
Shelton and
others have suggested, I plan to go to one range colder next
spring
(BCPR7ES-11).
The -11 indicates the plug gap. 1.1 mm in this
case, which is also
the stock gap. To save yourself the trouble of gapping
the plugs, try
to find -8 plugs -- 8 mm or 0.315" gap (25.4
mm/inch).
With the stock turbos (highest boost occurs at lower RPM) you
may be
able to get away with the stock gap. If you have some blowout
at
higher boost, then try 0.34" gap. If you still get blowout,
try
0.28-0.31" gap. I haven't heard members recommend gaps smaller
than
0.28".
Plug changing instructions:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/nlucius/n-2-sparkchange.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
NETM1NDER@aol.com>
To: <
stealth@starnet.net>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, November 26, 2001 5:43 PM
Subject: Team3S: Spark Plugs
Question?
I need to change my spark plugs, I was told that the factory
plugs
were still the best to use, I have the greddy profec B boost
control
set at 14Ib & K&N filter 3" exhaust front to back, What
should I gap
the plugs to 29mm 0r 32mm ? Thanks in
advance.
Chris 95VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 06:49:24
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Traction Control
Actually is it that "cut and dry". Our cars
do not have traction
control, as the industry defines it. Period. Traction
control is
electronic technology that controls the throttle cable and brakes
to
limit slipping of the wheels. Our system of limiting wheel slip
is
entirely mechanical (even the VCU).
For those that care to read and
look at my Illustrated Guide to the
3S AWD system, they will find an
elaborate explanation of our viscous
coupling center differential operation
plus many pictures and
diagrams of all parts involved in our drivetrain,
including the
limited slip rear diff, open front diff, 5-spd trany
internals,
synchros, etc.
An article by Edmunds on tractions
control:
http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/safety/articles/46352/article.htmlGreat
search engine:
http://www.google.com/Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, November 26, 2001 10:27 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Traction
Control
<snip>
It's not nearly as cut and dry as that
....
Our four-wheel-drive system consists of a center
differential
with a limited-slip viscous coupling.
The rear differential also uses a
viscous coupling.
If slip occurs, torque is sent to the tires with
greater traction.
- - tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 27 Nov 2001 08:22:37
-0800
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: I can get copies of recalls for free till end of year
If anyone
wants a copy of a NHTSA recall, I can get free copies until the end of the
Year. The company I work for subscribes to a very expensive research
service that is being cancelled at the end of this year(anyone else use
NERAC?). Until then If you post a recall number I should be able to get a
full copy from them.
Thanks for all of the information on helmets. I
accidentally CC'ed the Team3S list and was surprised no-one gave me a hard time
about not searching archives first. I only want a helmet for autocrossing
and maybe a few runs at the local 1/4 mile track. I will get something
nice even though the odds are greater of me being hit by a car while working the
course than when I am competing.
P.S. I finally discovered why I
double post occasionally. If I am writing an email and accidentaly
hit the back key on my browser(extra button on mouse) I loose email draft.
If I then start over I just noticed the old email address is automatically
inserted into the new mail message. Altavista web based e-mail is
pretty sad. The only reason I keep using it is because it is so unpopular
I never get spam email.
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com1991 VR-4
with 4-bolt main conversion
See all my mods at:
http://hometown.aol.com/johnmonnin/index.html***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 12:53:43
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Traction Control
>Having owned vehicles that use both methods,
I
>much prefer our limited slip versus traction
>control.
You
do not have to chose one over the other. They are different animals and
could be used together and compliment each other very nicely. F1 uses
both.
The theory behind Traction Control is the same theory that is
behind ABS,
which is you can get maximum possible traction ONLY if you allow
a small
and measured slippage between the tires and the road. Too much is
bad and
too little is bad.
Let me try some ASCII art here to explain
the relationship between wheel
slippage and
traction:
Traction
Force
(N)
^
|
|
/^^^^-----
|
/
----------
|
/
------------
| /
| /
|
/
|/________|____________________________ > Wheel Slippage
(%)
X
You
want to keep slippage at the "X" because this is where you have your
maximum
traction. This is what all drag racers know and try to do during
every
launch. Limited slip and AWD is not enough, you also need to control
traction (slippage).
Actually the better term would be a Slippage
Control, but it just would not
sell well at car dealerships,
LOL!
>Why punish someone for not being as exact
>in technical
terminolgy as you would like?
>I would imagine he will think twice
before
>asking a question he doesn't already know
>the answer to
again.
Oh, c'mon, nobody was punishing anyone. As a reader of this list I
would
rather read straight answers to technical questions. That was a good
refresher for those who know this stuff and a good info for those who are
learning.
Philip
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 09:35:01
EST
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Engine
stuttering/Tach Jumping
Hey all,
thanks for the helpful advice, I
guess I must be suffering from the "leaky
capacitor" problem. I'll be
pulling the ECU tonight, and assaulting it with
my trusty soldering
iron.
- -thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 1996 03:13:49
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Engine stuttering/Tach Jumping
If it ain't broke don't fix
it.
Make sure that the caps are bad before you start pulling. If you
did
a search of the archives you'll know what to look for ---- they will have
electrolyte leaking from the capicitors and they will have a fishy
smell.
The electrolyte may not be visible --- it was, in the case of my ECU,
but
the fish smell is there if they are leaking. You should also have a
good
solder puller --- Radio Shack should have a suction type that is
cheap.
Use a quality soldering iron --- the gun type usually get too hot.
Too
much heat can cause the pads to lift from the PC board.
It's not
difficult but take your time ---
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
ThorHolth@aol.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, November 27, 2001 6:35 AM
Subject: Team3S: Engine stuttering/Tach
Jumping
> Hey all,
>
> thanks for the helpful advice,
I guess I must be suffering from the "leaky
> capacitor" problem.
I'll be pulling the ECU tonight, and assaulting it with
> my trusty
soldering iron.
>
> -thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 14:35:08
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine stuttering/Tach Jumping
> If it ain't broke don't
fix it.
On a 10 year old Mitsu-designed car with their ECU, if it ain't
broke then
its almost broke and you might as well replace them as
preventative
maintenance.
Even if they don't smell fishy they should
really be replaced. It one of
the few things that we as owners can do
to the ECU to try to fix it so you
might as well try it if you are competent
with a soldering iron.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 14:17:34
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ECU capacitor replacement
What watt iron do you suggest
?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry
[mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Monday, January 01, 1996 4:14 AM
To:
ThorHolth@aol.com;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Engine stuttering/Tach Jumping
If it ain't broke don't
fix it.
Make sure that the caps are bad before you start pulling. If you
did
a search of the archives you'll know what to look for ---- they will have
electrolyte leaking from the capicitors and they will have a fishy
smell.
The electrolyte may not be visible --- it was, in the case of my ECU,
but
the fish smell is there if they are leaking. You should also have a
good
solder puller --- Radio Shack should have a suction type that is
cheap.
Use a quality soldering iron --- the gun type usually get too hot.
Too
much heat can cause the pads to lift from the PC board.
It's not
difficult but take your time ---
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
ThorHolth@aol.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, November 27, 2001 6:35 AM
Subject: Team3S: Engine stuttering/Tach
Jumping
> Hey all,
>
> thanks for the helpful advice, I
guess I must be suffering from the "leaky
> capacitor" problem.
I'll be pulling the ECU tonight, and assaulting it
with
> my trusty
soldering iron.
>
> -thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 19:50:39
EST
From:
NETM1NDER@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
RE:Tapping Noise
It sounds like your EGR solenoid. This is normal when it
gets old.
Chris 95VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 22:19:08
-0500
From: "Bill vP" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 1/4 mile ET question (math question?)
I have a question about
differences in ET and how far back that you think
someone would be with a
slower ET. I know that every run would be a little
different, but is
the following scenario valid?
Let's say that both car 1 and car 2 have
the same reaction time, and both
accelerate normally.
Car 1 is the faster
car and finishes in 13.0 seconds
Car 2 finishes in 13.5 seconds and traps at
~100 mph
Now the question is, how far behind car 1 is car 2 when it goes
thru the
traps, i.e. finishes ?
Trap speed for the quicker car would
seem to be irrelevant.
Now by my reasoning, since car 1 finishes 0.5 seconds
faster, then you can
use that 0.5 seconds as a time difference. Then
you see how far car 2
travels at ~100 mph (the trap) in 0.5
seconds
Now 100 mph is about equal to 147 ft per second, so car 2 would
have
traveled about 74 ft in the last 0.5 seconds, and this is the
difference
between the two cars (in length). So for every 0.1 seconds
back in ET (+\-
rt if necessary) a 100 mph trapping car would be about 15 ft
behind, which
is about 1 car length for every 0.1 seconds back for a 100 mph
trapping car.
Is there some fatal flaw in this
reasoning?
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#685
***************************************