Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, November 26
2001 Volume 01 : Number
684
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 26 Nov 2001 09:22:05 +0700
From: "CV. Duta Karya Teknik" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject:
Fw: Team3S: NEED ADVICE
Hi Guys,
Would you please to comment to
this information from manufacturer of pill or
do you have any experience ?
please let me know.
Thanks n regards
Jane
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "PT Sutan Masterindo" <
tpspower@rad.net.id>
To: "CV. Duta
Karya Teknik" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Cc:
<
fastmax@home.com>
Sent: Friday,
November 23, 2001 4:12 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: NEED ADVICE
> Dear
Mr Berry,
>
> Thank you for your email.Firepower always appreciates
feedback whether
> positive or negative.I was travelling through Indonesia
with our Firepower
> partners when we came across this email.
> Just
a bit of background into the business before I cover your technical
>
concerns.
>
> Firepower is a West Australian based business who
manufactures product in
> Melbourne and Perth.Recently,Firepower and Shell
Services formed a joint
> venture.
>
> Australian Market
(WA)
> On 1 January 2000, BP Kwinana (Western Australia's source of
fuel
feedstock)
> withdrew Leaded Petrol and introduced Lead Free Super
into the local
market
> (due to high benzene levels).A huge problem for
the WA motorists with
older
> leaded vehicles ! Given that you worked
in the Union Oil research center
you
> would understand what the lack
of lead in motorspirit does i.e. valve seat
> recession.The Pill overcomes
this by providing upper cylinder lubricity
and
> prevent pre-ignition
by burning the heavier fuels quicker.Effectively we
> witnessed a
reduction in fuel economy (depending on vehicle make and
age)in
> the
Australian market of between 4-7% - not much, but then again in a high
>
quality fuel manufactured market.The emission reduction - a bonus on its
>
own.
>
> Coupled with this, most of the new 5 series BMWs (refer
Auto Classic -
> Perth) have severe pinging problems.This is overcome by
adding the
Pill.The
> Pill starves the fuel from its octane appetite.We
also experienced
problems
> with vehicles under load and pinging
(pre-gnition).Vehicles towing
caravans
> problems were overcome with
the addition of the Pill.All these emperical
> examples are relative to
Australian fuels.Bearing in mind that Western
> Australia has one of the
strictest fuel specifications in the World.For
> Motorspirit we remove the
ingredient MTBE to reduce benzene levels and
with
> Diesel the sulphur
is only 500ppm (going to 50ppm in 3 years time).Nowhere
> near Indonesian
specification.
>
>
> The Pill is not an additive but a fuel
conditioner.Given the competivity
of
> the Motorspirit market fuel
companies do not tend to endorse these
> products.By adding fuel
conditioners, whether at refinery or gantry level,
> would result in a
higher unit cost due to the over 'engineering' facet.It
> will also not
meet the Governmental dictated spec for petrol/diesel.These
> products
that could have been added include other conditioners like Pour
> Point
depressants (prevent diesel freezing which still happens during cold
>
snaps and winter seasons). Firepower products are hydrocarbon based (not
>
solvent or teflon based like Wynns or Nulon) which compliments the fuel
>
without damaging seals and leaving residue.
>
>
> In Indonesia
and some selective Asian countries the fuel is treated with
> Kerosene as
an extender (mainly to cheapen the fuel).We have also heard of
> water and
other subtances used to extend the fuel.The fuel lacks Octane as
a
>
result - which is what the Pill contributes.Nissan in the Philippines
>
achieved a >40% fuel saving on a Nissan Sentra (refer Angel
Goncalves).We
> have years of technical testimonials available.Test
reports available from
> this office - please discuss with PT Sutan
Masterindo, the Firepower
partner
> in
Indonesia.
>
>
> Effectively, Firepower in Indonesia is not a
small company given the
> relationship with Shell.Also, they are
represented at Antam,PLN,Aneka
> Tambang and BPIS to mention a
few.
>
> Finally, should the Pill not work then Firepower would
kindly return your
> money.I am assumming that BS depicts - Best Standards
?
>
> Any questions, please refer to the writer.
>
>
Bill Singer
> FIREPOWER Oceania
> Tel : +61.8.92428988
>
Mobile : 0438899562
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: CV. Duta Karya Teknik [mailto:dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id]
> Sent:
Thursday, November 22, 2001 3:17 PM
> To:
tpspower@rad.net.id> Subject: Fw:
Team3S: NEED ADVICE
>
> Ini salah satu komentar dari mereka mengenai
produk dari Firepower. Untuk
> itu kami mohon informasi yang jelas dan
bagaimana jika terjadi kerusakan
> pada kendaraan saya jika harus
mengkonsumsi PILL dengan terus menerus.
> Saya sudah memakainya akan
tetapi saat ini saya menunda untuk memakainya
> sebelum ada penjelasan
yang pasti.
> Terima kasih atas perhatiannya.
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
> To: "CV. Duta
Karya Teknik" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>;
<
Team3S@team3s.com>
> Sent:
Wednesday, November 21, 2001 10:29 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: NEED
ADVICE
>
>
> > All I saw at the site was marketing hype ---
no technical information or
> independent
> > testing at all. All
kinds of automotive products make outrageous claims
to
>
improve
> > your cars performance --- very few actually work.
>
>
> > The oil companies and auto manufacturers spend billions of
dollars to
> improve the
> > reliability and efficiency of their
products --- a very small edge is
> worth more
> > billions in
increased revenue. Some of these oil additives are an
example,
> if
their
> > claims of improved mileage and drivability and reduced wear
were true
then
> the
> > manufacturers would gladly add them
to the car and recommend you use
them
> on
> > a regular
basis.
> >
> > If the effectiveness of fuel could be improved
that much for a few cents
> per gallon
> > the oil companies
would be standing in line to own the product [ and no
> not so
they
> > could hide the formula --- that theory is BS ]. Years
ago I worked in
the
> Union Oil
> > research center and they
actual tested many of those products just to
see
> if their
>
> was any validity to their claims --- just in case they might find a
>
diamond in the pile
> > of marketing BS. They never, did but we had a
few laughs.
> >
> > Stay away from small companies that make
outrageous claims for their
> product, if
> > it's real, it will
surface in the real world.
> >
>
> Jim Berry
> >
=========================================================
> > -----
Original Message -----
> > From: CV. Duta Karya Teknik <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
>
> To: <
Team3S@team3s.com>
> > Sent:
Wednesday, November 21, 2001 12:52 AM
> > Subject: Team3S: NEED
ADVICE
> >
> >
> > > Hi Guys,
> >
>
> > > When I attended Automotive Show and I found one
participant and he
> informed
> > > me one of the products
it's called PILL from Firepower Australia can
> > > increase octane
and performance of engine.
> > > One PILL can mix 60 ltr into fuel
tank and the price is USD 5.00 for
10
> pcs of
> > > PILL
against our local currency Rp 10.000 per USD 1.00 but I worry
about
>
this PILL > > because I have no experience and do not
>
> > want my engine will have a problem.
> > > If anybody knows
about this PILL and has experience to use it, please
> let me
> >
> know.
> > > Their website is
www.tpsfirepower.com and click to the
product.
> > > Your kindly information is very helpful and thank you
very much.
> > >
> > > Kindly regards,
> > >
Jane
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 18:59:08
-0800
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Multi-use tester (MUT) and vehicle speed sensor
I haven't had
this much fun working on a car in a long time. Seems like
there's a new
challenge every day.
I have a '92 VR4 with electronically controlled
suspension (ECS). The
tour/sports light began flashing after a few
hours driving on curving roads
with a couple of unpaved stretches (I played
nice when I hit those).
The diagnostic manual suggests I use a "multi-use
tester (MUT)" to capture
codes and enter test scenarios. I've used an
on-board diagnostic (OBD)
reader that performed similar functions, though I
don't recall that it was
capable of entering specific test scenarios.
Does anyone know if the MUT
is, indeed, different from the OBD diagnostic
tool? Any idea where I can
find them? I suspect I'll be using one
on a fairly regular basis.
I was able to do enough basic diagnosis using
a volt meter to narrow the
problem down to the vehicle speed sensor
(diagnostic trouble code 24, though
I'd swear it was giving me a reading of
25). If I'm going to test the
sensor further I'll need to get a MUT and
spend some time going through
diagnostic steps, any idea what it costs to
just buy a sensor and replace it
myself? It looks like it just bolts
into the transaxle. I'm mindful that
trouble could be in the harness or
the ECS control unit.
Thanks!
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 02:45:59
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
OT: Cool prices Apexi Super AVC-R
Hi all!
I just bought an Apexi
AVC-R and Super-AFC from these guys:
http://www.ecarshops.comTheir prices
are great. They currently have two stores: Titan and Honda.
They are working
on their websites now so the prices are different in
different places but
they are all low.
You can find Apexi AVC-R on the Titan site under Group
buys for $399 (free
S+H)
and Super AFC on the Honda site for $300 under
Apexi Electronics.
I was going to call and order tomorrow but I received
four replies from two
of their people today (and that is on a Thanksgiving
Sunday!). They said
they will be adding a 3000GT/Stealth section soon. Both
AVC-R and Super-AFC
are in stock and can ship immediately so I confidently
placed an online
order tonight.
Philip
P.S. I wish they had
paid me for doing this promotion for them.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 09:16:54
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: wideband O2
Jim/List, a couple of the MKIV guru's had
bought one these a few months
back. These guys got them to try and do
real time fueling adjustments, they
mounted the O2 sensor in the top of the
D/P just after the turbo(s). Yes a
single turbo guy did try the set up
and liked it, he just didn't have 950
bucks to drop on the kit :(
They liked them allot, It should also be noted the display module (EMD)
is
little bigger than AVC-R display....... And we have a limited
amount of
space to mount things in our cars as is :(
Another thing to
note due to having two banks to monitor we may have to
mount the WB O2 sensor
just after the Y in a D/P for decent readings also
mounted there you will see
about 250-300 rpms of lag in your readings if you
use it to make "real time"
adjustments to our fuels curves.
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Jim Berry [SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Saturday, November 24,
2001 9:25 PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
3sracers@speedtoys.com> Subject:
Team3S: wideband O2
>
> Anybody know about this product or company
--- Alamo is selling
> a setup for $800 or so.
>
>
http://fjoinc.com/automotive/WBO2details.htm#afrdis>
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 09:23:38
-0500
From:
AMastrangelo@giwindustries.comSubject:
Team3S: RE:Traction Control
How can I check to see if my car has traction
control?
Thanks,
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 09:34:40
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
RE:Traction Control
Traction control was never an option on the 3000GT
and Stealth.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of
AMastrangelo@giwindustries.comSent:
Monday, November 26, 2001 9:24 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: RE:Traction Control
How can I check to see if my car has traction
control?
Thanks,
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 10:00:11
EST
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Engine
Stuttering/tachometer jumping
I have recently begun to experience the
engine stuttering/tach jumping problem which I have seen elsewhere on this
message board. However, I have had no luck diagnosing the problem. When
the accelerator is pressed (usually at highway speeds), the car will
stutter and start to stall, the tacj will jump several hundred RPM in either
direction, and, most recently, the "check engine" light came on
momentarily. Caveat - sometimes, the tach will jump all on its own without
any accelerator actuation.
The only modification I have made to
the ignition system is to tap the oxygen sensor leads at the ECU. The taps
have since been disconnected to evaluate the problem, but I noticed that my rear
O2 sensor might be faulty. Could this cause the stuttering/tach
problem?
If not the O2 sensor, what was the cause of the stuttering that
others have noted on the board. I have a 1991 stealth Rt-turbo with about
115,000 miles on it. (a 60k service was performed 7,000 miles ago as a
precaution when I bought the car, which entailed new plugs and
wires.
Thanks for any advice.
- -Thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 07:42:38
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Traction Control
What type of car do you have? This list is
for 3000GT/Stealth cars,
none of which have "traction control" in any
electronic sense. All
the factory turbocharged models have all-wheel drive,
which is
full-time and automatic in a mechanical sense. Some
for-Japan
non-turbo models have AWD also. Just look for a differential
between
the rear two wheels (the transfer case and propeller shaft give
it
away also).
An illustrated guide to the 3S AWD system:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-AWD.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
AMastrangelo@giwindustries.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, November 26, 2001 7:23 AM
Subject: Team3S: RE:Traction
Control
How can I check to see if my car has traction
control?
Thanks,
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 09:55:57
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Multi-use tester (MUT) and vehicle speed sensor
I don't know
how much different the MUT is from your OBD reader. The MUT II
which is used
for '94 and '95 cars costs around $2000 and is not an easy
item to
acquire. Your Mitsubishi dealer should have one though. I know
a
lot of places charge like $80 just to hook one up, so get a price quote
up
front if you take it in. Might be cheaper just to replace the sensor
like
you said.
Good luck,
Christopher
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
To:
"Team3S" <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Sunday,
November 25, 2001 8:59 PM
Subject: Team3S: Multi-use tester (MUT) and vehicle
speed sensor
> I haven't had this much fun working on a car in a long
time. Seems like
> there's a new challenge every
day.
>
> I have a '92 VR4 with electronically controlled suspension
(ECS). The
> tour/sports light began flashing after a few hours
driving on curving
roads
> with a couple of unpaved stretches (I played
nice when I hit those).
>
> The diagnostic manual suggests I use a
"multi-use tester (MUT)" to capture
> codes and enter test
scenarios. I've used an on-board diagnostic (OBD)
> reader that
performed similar functions, though I don't recall that it was
> capable
of entering specific test scenarios. Does anyone know if the MUT
>
is, indeed, different from the OBD diagnostic tool? Any idea where I
can
> find them? I suspect I'll be using one on a fairly regular
basis.
>
> I was able to do enough basic diagnosis using a volt
meter to narrow the
> problem down to the vehicle speed sensor (diagnostic
trouble code 24,
though
> I'd swear it was giving me a reading of
25). If I'm going to test the
> sensor further I'll need to get a
MUT and spend some time going through
> diagnostic steps, any idea what it
costs to just buy a sensor and replace
it
> myself? It looks like
it just bolts into the transaxle. I'm mindful that
> trouble could
be in the harness or the ECS control unit.
>
>
Thanks!
>
> Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 11:34:18
-0500 (EST)
From: Kraig Frederickson <
kfrederi@chemistry.ohio-state.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Transmission Woes
Hello All,
First, let me say that I am new
to this list and so far have found
it a valuble resource, but I can learn
only so much by digging through
the archives. My problem is this, I
have a '92 VR-4 which I've had for
about 2 years. It has a 125k miles,
is completely stock and I'm having
some problems with the transmission.
The transmission was removed and
the output shaft splines were visibly worn
as well as the input to the
transfer case. I've found in the list
archives places that sell
replacement parts and shops that do rebuilds, but
before I send my
transmission off to get rebuilt I'd like some
recommendations from people
who have actually had work done on theirs.
Which shop seems to do the best
work? Is it going to take 2 months
before I can get my car back? Also,
transmission problems seem
widespread among these types of cars, which makes
me think there is a design
flaw. Are there parts available that are maybe a
little better quality
than the stock parts?
Ideally, I'd like to find a local shop that can do the
work.
However, knowledge about this car seems really limited here in
Ohio. The
manager of the shop I use is reluctant to even open up the
transmission
because no one there has any experience with it and there are
apparently
no manuals available. Any advice would be greatly
appreciated. Feel free
to respond to my e-mail directly at
frederickson.4@osu.eduKraig
'92
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 10:53:22
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine Stuttering/tachometer jumping
> I have recently
begun to experience the engine
> stuttering/tach jumping problem which I
have seen elsewhere
> on this message board. However, I have had no luck
diagnosing
> the problem. When the accelerator is pressed (usually
at
> highway speeds), the car will stutter and start to stall,
> the tacj will jump several hundred RPM in either direction,
>
and, most recently, the "check engine" light came on
> momentarily.
Caveat - sometimes, the tach will jump all on
> its own without any
accelerator actuation.
Sounds like the capacitors in the ECU are
dying their slow death. On a '91
like yours it is very likely that's
the problem.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 11:16:18
-0600
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine Stuttering/tachometer jumping
Is there any way to test
that? I'm having a similar issue w/ my '95. That
plus the active aero seems
to operate on a cycle - it turns on once per
drive (i.e. the first time i hit
50 it'll turn on. once i stop it'll turn
off and not turn back on until the
engine is turned off).
Alex.
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, November 26, 2001 10:53 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine
Stuttering/tachometer jumping
> > I have recently begun to
experience the engine
> > stuttering/tach jumping problem which I have
seen elsewhere
> > on this message board. However, I have had no luck
diagnosing
> > the problem. When the accelerator is pressed
(usually at
> > highway speeds), the car will stutter and start
to stall,
> > the tacj will jump several hundred RPM in either
direction,
> > and, most recently, the "check engine" light came
on
> > momentarily. Caveat - sometimes, the tach will jump all
on
> > its own without any accelerator actuation.
>
>
Sounds like the capacitors in the ECU are dying their slow death. On
a
'91
> like yours it is very likely that's the
problem.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 11:56:31
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine Stuttering/tachometer jumping
> Is there any way to
test that? I'm having a similar issue w/
> my '95. That plus the active
aero seems to operate on a cycle
> - it turns on once per drive (i.e. the
first time i hit 50
> it'll turn on. once i stop it'll turn off and not
turn back
> on until the engine is turned off).
You don't test it,
you just replace them. Requires good soldering skill.
Here are the
directions for a 1G DSM car. Our ECU's are "similar".
http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/caps.htmActive
aero issues are likely some other problem.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 12:59:29
EST
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Engine
stuttering/Tach Jumping
Okay, further investigation/reading on the
internet suggests that I might
have a bad ECU. if that's the case, where can
I get mine repaired without
giving up my firstborn?
-
-Thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 13:05:27
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stutter with low fuel
Could be blockage, perhaps the fuel
filter?
Otherwise, check voltage(s) to the fuel pump and line pressure at the
rails.
I am not familiar with the pickup tube to the pump, not sure if it
could come loose or get blocked in some way.
Kurt
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Will Fortenberry
[mailto:BigWill_VR4@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 4:26
PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: Stutter with low fuel
Hey
all,
Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions. I've been on the list
for a
while just watching. I'm having an odd problem with my 94 VR-4 (bpu).
When I
get to 1/4-1/8 tank of gas, the engine will miss very badly above
3500rpm.
It gets worse as the fuel level gets lower. When I put gas in the
car, it
immediately goes away.
In the past, I was able to go another 90
miles or so with no problems.
Any
ideas?
Thanks,
Will
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 10:28:08
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: PF rotor quality update
Tim @ Porterfield has expressed that they
have begun to use a new US
vendor (wont say who, and I didnt need to know
anyway) for the 3S rotors,
and thanks to the few people who have contacted
him with the issues we've
seen..they dropped the old vendor.
As with
most things, one vendor can be good today, and suck tomorrow..but
he thanks
everyone for thier feedback.
Also, 2pc OEM fitment race rotors for 2nd
gen will cost anywhere from $
760 to $820 for the front pair if anyone is
interested They are sized up
and ready. The rotors will
look just like Mr. Floyd's do, but a thin
shade smaller diameter than he
ordered for his custom setup.
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/rotor1.jpghttp://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/rotor2.jpg-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 19:43:12
EST
From:
NETM1NDER@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Spark
Plugs Question?
I need to change my spark plugs, I was told that
the factory plugs were
still the best to use, I have the greddy profec B
boost control set at 14Ib &
K&N filter 3" exhaust front to back,
What should I gap the plugs to 29mm 0r
32mm ? Thanks in
advance.
Chris 95VR4
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 17:36:38
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Transmission Woes
I'm surprised nobody has jumped in on this. All
i can say is
Kormex...Kormex......Kormex.
They were the first to rebuild
our trannies, and establish a guide to do
it. I'm pretty sure some of the
parts they use are stronger than the
factory parts too.
Just have
your shop remove the old one, and put a Kormex rebuild in.
www.kormextrans.comAt 09:34 AM
11/26/01 , Kraig Frederickson wrote:
>Hello
All,
> First, let me say
that I am new to this list and so far have found
>it a valuble resource,
but I can learn only so much by digging through
>the archives. My
problem is this, I have a '92 VR-4 which I've had for
>about 2
years. It has a 125k miles, is completely stock and I'm having
>some
problems with the transmission. The transmission was removed
and
>the output shaft splines were visibly worn as well as the input to
the
>transfer case. I've found in the list archives places that
sell
>replacement parts and shops that do rebuilds, but before I send
my
>transmission off to get rebuilt I'd like some recommendations from
people
>who have actually had work done on theirs. Which shop seems
to do the best
>work? Is it going to take 2 months before I can get
my car back? Also,
>transmission problems seem widespread among
these types of cars, which makes
>me think there is a design flaw.
Are there parts available that are maybe a
>little better quality than the
stock parts?
> Ideally,
I'd like to find a local shop that can do the work.
>However, knowledge
about this car seems really limited here in Ohio. The
>manager of
the shop I use is reluctant to even open up the transmission
>because no
one there has any experience with it and there are apparently
>no manuals
available. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Feel
free
>to respond to my e-mail directly at
frederickson.4@osu.edu>
>Kraig
>'92
VR-4
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 16:59:38
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Spark Plugs Question?
Ideally, you should try the stock gap and
see how your car performs. If it
runs well, then leave it alone... if
it misses under high boost or otherwise
doesn't run well, try closing the gap
a little at a time until there's no
missing under high boost.
If
you're not inclined to spend that kind of time, go with what others
have
tried.
Smaller spark plug gaps generally mean
less-complete combustion, lower gas
mileage, and a less-than-optimal flame
front. Larger gaps mean better
combustion, but can be flakey if the
pre-combustion cylinder pressure is
high enough to create too much resistance
in the spark plug gap. IOW, you
want the largest gap (within reason)
that, with your ignition and boost
level, will not cause the spark to
be "blown out" at higher pressures. I
haven't pulled my plugs yet, but
AFAIK, they are the original plugs with
37,000miles on them (stock gap or
perhaps a tiny bit wider) and I have no
problems running 14psi.
-
--Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Black 3000GT VR-4 (6MT, AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 37,000
mi
Track Setup: FIPK, HKS TT Exhaust, GReddy
PRofecA,
GReddy TypeS BPV, Stillen DP, TEC Front ST Brace,
Cusco Rear ST Brace, Optima RedTop,
SpeedBleeders,
Porterfield Cryo Front Rotors, R4S Front Pads,
Firehawk SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17 @43/37(AutoX), '94 VR-4
Wheels
'94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 80,000mi
http://www.team3s.com/~egross-
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Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 17:50:22
-0600
From: David Allison <
daedel@mac.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil
Burning Probs
Yes, its me... again... I have a 94 3000gt which I think is
burning oil.
For the first week of driving it after buying it from the guy I
would
belch the blue smog of death whenever at low speeds or idling
(accelerator pushed down slightly or whatever). This last weekend I
drove about 70 miles on I-49 to a State Park to camp. It was hilly in
the camp and I was forced to travel at low speeds which gave me a lot of
blue smoke. Since driving back Sunday night most if not all of the smoke
has dissapeared. I added a quart of Mobil 1 10W30 synthetic to top the
oil off which I think looked low on the dip stick. (I'm confused on this
point because all there is on the dip stick is two indentations and the
wiggly part above them: someone please clarify for me!) Still no smoke
problems. I get home from driving 150 miles or so today (Baton
Rouge-Lafayette and back, twice), and just to see if I can get any smoke
I rev the engine up to 7000 RPM which gives me some smoke, but not
nearly as much. The oil seems low again however, When I filled up with
the synthetic it was at almost 3/4s (upward) between the two
indentations but now its just below half way between them, but it could
be my mistake on that part. I got on the phone with a Mitsu mechanic and
he said it was probably bad valve seals. Some people over here in
Lafayette at Hi-Tech Motorsports seem to think bad rings maybe (???).
The mitsu guy quoted me about 800-900 total to do the valves which seems
a little excessive. I do not want to pay the money but I'm still pretty
sure it may be burning a little bit of oil. I will check the PCV valve
just in case but I really doubt that is the root of my problems.
Remember when considering all of this, it smoked for about a week and
all of a sudden seemed to quit, about 2 days ago (after the first rain
its been in since I had it). Thanks in advance for putting up with all
of my crap.
P.S. The oil pressure gauge still reads in between the
two marks above
about 2/3rds.
- -David
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#684
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