Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, November 25
2001 Volume 01 : Number
683
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 24 Nov 2001 11:33:59 -0800
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden"
<
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil/filter recommendations or warnings?
My practice with other
(lesser) cars has been to change both oil and filter
religiously at 3000 mile
intervals. I'm not very religiously observant so I
might let it stretch
to 5000 miles and skip a filter change here and there.
I've used good
quality oil (usually Castrol GTX), either 20-W-50 or 10-W-40
depending on the
season. I also include a quart of synthetic, I think
5-W-50, to help
with extreme conditions. I've used good quality filters,
but not
premium filters.
Do y'all think the oil I've used will be adequate for a
'92 VR4 with 105k
miles?
I've seen messages recently indicating that
filters may need to collect some
debris before they reach optimal efficiency,
therefore it may be better to
only change filters every other oil
change. I suppose that could be
addressed by finer filter membranes up
front. Any ideas about best filter
change intervals?
Recommendations or warnings about filters?
Thanks,
Michael
Rhoden
"new to me" '92 VR2
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 11:42:21
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: pcv valve
The PCV valve should only allow air to go through
one way (blow
through it to check). It should "rattle" when you take it off
and
shake it (spring-loaded ball inside). Try cleaning it first with
a
solvent before replacing (dealers want like $25 for this thing).
Pics of location:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius3/j3-pcvlocation.gif(may
have to get to this from my Garage Page' Pics section, depending
on how
geocities is acting)
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- --- Kimberly
Byrd <
kimbyrd@webtv.net>
wrote:
> Hey guys. Need a little help here. Where is the pcv valve
located
> in the
> 24v DOHC NA 3000? Also, how do you know when it
is going bad?
> Thanks for
> your help!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 15:36:41
-0500
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
pcv valve
Hi Kim,
I am not going to be like Jeff and tell you to
blow in it, just go to Pep
Boys and pick one up, get a Purolater PCV
valve. I purchased one today,
PV1043 is the part number and it set me
back a total of $4.49. Sure beats
the heck out of trying to clean
it. Oh I also got a fuel filter, for
$18.99, you should change it every
50,000 miles too.
Hope this helps,
Dave Best
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, November 24, 2001 2:42 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: pcv
valve
> The PCV valve should only allow air to go through one way
(blow
> through it to check). It should "rattle" when you take it off
and
> shake it (spring-loaded ball inside). Try cleaning it first with
a
> solvent before replacing (dealers want like $25 for this
thing).
>
> Pics of location:
>
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius3/j3-pcvlocation.gif>
(may have to get to this from my Garage Page' Pics section, depending
> on
how geocities is acting)
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> ---
Kimberly Byrd <
kimbyrd@webtv.net>
wrote:
> > Hey guys. Need a little help here. Where is the pcv valve
located
> > in the
> > 24v DOHC NA 3000? Also, how do you know
when it is going bad?
> > Thanks for
> > your
help!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 15:58:48
-0500
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Polished/powder coated Plenums, valve covers and spark plug plates
I just
wanted to let you guys know that I am now polishing and powder
coating
plenums and valve covers.
I polish the plenums and powder coat in the
grooves around the lettering, or
can powder coat the entire Plenum and polish
the top of the lettering.
As for valve covers, I polish them and powder
coat the tops of the letters
any color or colors you'd like, or powder coat
the entire valve cover and
polish the tops of the letters (like the one shown
on the ebay link below).
I will also soon have an array of polished spark
plug plates with powder
coated lettering, your choice of colors. My
plates will have a choice of
engravings such as: Twin Turbo; 3000GT - with
and without Mitsubishi
Diamonds; Stealth; and GTO - with and without
Mitsubishi Diamonds. I'll be
selling my plates polished and powder
coated, like the GTO plate that I
recently sold on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597874854&
r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1006141736&indexURL=0&rd=1.
Or
if you have purcased a spark plug plate and would like it polished and
powder
coated, in any color you'd like, please let me know. I can
provide
pictures of my work if anyone is interested. If you are
interested let me
know you are a member of this list and I'll give you a very
good price. I
should have my plates within a month. Please reply
or send me any questions
directly at
wdb039@erols.com.
Thanks,
Dave
Best
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 15:53:02
-0800
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ABS Coming On!!
The shafts are retained by litte spring
clips. They do come out with some
coaxing.
I took apart the ball
joints when replacing my clutch. Others on the list
have taken apart
the suspension from the top (up by the spring) instead of
the
bottom.
I can't see how you would get the transmission out of the car
without
getting the shafts out of the trans!
Danno wrote:
>
I"m taking the car back to the mechanic that changed the clutch, but he
>
shared this very interesting bit of info with me. He said that
he was
> unable to remove the shafts. They were
'frozen'.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 17:49:05
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Shift linkage
Hi all,
I now all of a sudden
have a blocking spring when I try to shift into
reverse. Before, I could
barely feel any resistance moving the shifter past
6th. Now it's like the
spring that was there started working again. That
coupled with the fact that
the shifter isn't centering is starting to bother
me. Any
suggestions?
Alex.
'95 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 24 Nov 2001 18:00:07
-0800
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Helmet?
Hi Jeremy:
Were did you get your helmet from, and
how much did it cost?
I was going to ask for one for Christmas. Any
special specifications?
John Monnin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 18:25:22
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
wideband O2
Anybody know about this product or company --- Alamo is
selling
a setup for $800 or so.
http://fjoinc.com/automotive/WBO2details.htm#afrdis
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 19:09:47
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Helmet?
I'm not Jeremy but if you're going to race your car you'll
need
an SA rated helmet [ Nomex lining ] as opposed to an M rated
helmet [
nylon lining ]. In addition the most recent Snell rating is
your best bet ---
their safer and at some point racing organizations
limit the year that they
will accept. For the open track events I run
in, a Snell 95 or newer helmet
is required. I have a Snell 95 and I
think the latest is 2000 --- They don't
have an upgrade in rating
every year.
As to cost, buy whatever you
think your life is worth. In a race
environment your helmet is your most
important safety device.
It's probably second only to your brain in
determining whether
or not you'll avoid serious injury on the track --- even
a helmet
can't protect against terminal
stupidity.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "John Monnin" <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
<
gleason@netnitco.net>
> Hi
Jeremy:
>
> Were did you get your helmet from, and how much did it
cost?
>
> I was going to ask for one for Christmas. Any special
specifications?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 21:26:14
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil/filter recommendations or warnings?
> I've used good
quality oil (usually Castrol GTX), either
> 20-W-50 or 10-W-40 depending
on the season. I also
> include a quart of synthetic, I think
5-W-50, to help
> with extreme conditions. I've used good quality
filters,
> but not premium filters.
> Do y'all think the oil
I've used will be adequate for a
> '92 VR4 with 105k miles?
Follow
the viscosities in the owners manual. 20W50 is too thick
(especially
during startup - where most wear occurs), as is 10W40.
10W30 synthetic is
the best bet. Every 3000 miles is right for the
change - longer than that
will contribute to the dreaded "lifter tick".
Use the OEM Mitsubishi
filters.
I used Mobil-1 10W30 full synthetic
and there was almost no wear in my
engine parts when I tore it down
recently.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 20:37:45
-0800
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: iffy performance
I've found that my car hesitates and sometimes
backfires when accelerating
from the 3000rpm range. It doesn't seem to
matter which gear I'm using. I
notice it both on surface streets (wide
speed range) and on the freeway
(typically above 80mph). Timing belt
was replace at 65k (I'm at 105k now),
and was (presumably) checked when the
water pump was replaced at 80k.
Tune-up (including spark plug and wire
replacement) was performed at 95k. I
don't think the car has been raced
or abused (I bought it a couple of weeks
ago). Any ideas what could
cause this sort of non-optimal performance?
Thanks.
Michael
Rhoden
'92 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 20:38:35
-0800
From: "Michael, Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: traction
I've worked my way up to 1.5 times posted speed on
curves (on wet, but not
rainy roads), and full throttle from a stop
sign. I haven't lost traction
once. Does the VR4 have a sudden,
catastrophic loss of traction, or does it
slip a bit in
warning?
Michael Rhoden
'92 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 01:19:49
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: traction
I have done about 4 road course Driving Events (DEs) and
a handful of
AutoCross (AutoX) events. I have only lost traction
twice. With the
stock setup, the car understeers so instead of
catastrophically losing
traction you actually start to plow toward the
guardrail which is the
indication that you are losing grip. Ways to fix
this? Go slower, get
better tires, get better suspension, etc.
Lots of options and it
depends on what you want to do.
The two times I
have lost traction ... one was because I needed to find
out and I had
comfortably taken a turn at 65 mph all day and took it at
70 mph the next
time. I felt the back of the car step out (similar to
RWD styles of
sliding the rear through a turn) but I breathed off the
throttle, corrected
the steering, and the car sat down and kept on
going. The other time
was in a tight turn where I got to the apex and
was able to crank the wheel
to the right (until lock) and get full
throttle which was the slow way to go
around the turn and not
recommended.
Otherwise, in the 3 DEs and 2
open track runs that is about 1,000 track
miles and to "kick out the back"
only once means I am not driving super
hard but the car DOES stick to the
track well even on stock setup. Dial
in some negative rear camber or
stiffen the front strut towers (email
netminder@aol.com for a fantastic front
strut tower bar) and this will
help in the handling. The other trick is
to enter a turn slower but hit
the throttle sooner since the AWD will allow
this. Instead of going in
hot, understeering through the apex and
hitting the guardrail (which
kills lap times) you can go in slower, crank on
the wheel, throttle, and
emerge nicely.
An instructor of mine
commented how well these cars hold to the road. I
suggest starting with
a cheap set of tires that will "talk" to you early
in a turn and let you know
when the car is starting to lose traction.
The high-priced ones grip so well
they do not "talk" until they are
almost ready to lose control.
For
those interested I know the Skip Barber book talks about slip angle,
etc. so
for the math-minded folks there are details that are more than
seat of the
pants for ya to learn from.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4, stock suspension,
Pirelli P-Zero tires
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael,
Sharon & Dashiell Rhoden
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001
23:39
I've worked my way up to 1.5 times posted speed on curves (on
wet, but
not
rainy roads), and full throttle from a stop sign. I
haven't lost
traction
once. Does the VR4 have a sudden, catastrophic
loss of traction, or
does it
slip a bit in warning?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 01:48:57
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Helmet?
Also be sure to check if the people you drive with/race
with require a
full face helmet, open face, full-face with face shield,
etc.
A car helmet is more resistant to gas flames than a motorcycle
helmet
(since usually you are thrown from a bike when it wrecks but
are
strapped in a car when it wrecks). Well it isn't the fact that
it
resists flames better ... but I think it resists fuel better. That
is
the main difference.
Shells (outside of helmet) can be carbon
fiber/Kevlar or fiberglass or
other materials. Lining can be basic and
you can wear a balaclava or
have that included and you don't need to wear
one. Talk to the place
you run your car and find out. Stuff like
the 1/4 mile do not require
one until you are under a certain time I believe
(or is that a rollbar
or harness?).
Be safe regardless. Prices
range from $200 (Snell 95 open face ones) to
$1,000 (carbon fiber full out
with air intake).
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
Very impressed with my Bell
Sport II Snell 95 helmet
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 23:57:11
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Helmet?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Monnin"
<
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Sent:
Saturday, November 24, 2001 6:00 PM
Subject: Team3S: Helmet?
> Where
did you get your helmet from, and how much did it cost?
> I was going to
ask for one for Christmas. Any special specifications?
> John Monnin
-
---------------
For most "driving events" that don't require a rollbar, a
motorcycle helmet
is sufficient. It's called a "Snell-M", and that's
the way the requirement
reads. SCCA, NASA Pro Racing HPDE's, etc.,
consider that the minimum. Tech
checks look for the Snell-M designation
inside the helmet, so if you buy a
used one, look for the tag and make sure
it has one. Price: $90-$100 at any
motorcycle shop, or on the
web. From there, as you get into better fire
retardance, impact
absorption, etc., the sky's the limit on price. ~$250
gets you a *nice*
helmet, but for HPDE, and other 'events' where you're not
allowed to "swap
paint", I feel pretty safe with a Snell-M. Some more info:
http://www.smf.org/top4.htmlhttp://www.bellmotorsports.com/equiprec.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 25 Nov 2001 16:09:26
-0800 (PST)
From: AmkreadGTO <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FS: 17in Chrome VR4 rims with almost new Yoko A032 race
tires
Hello All,
Finally got the rims rinsed and took some
pix...
please see below url for pix & info... (cut&paste if
link
does not work)
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=c3df27aed90b6300419e2386e607f0c7&threadid=55118Feel
free to contact me if you have any questions or
interest.. prefer not to
separate tires and rims, but
if no decent offer is recieved, i will
consider..
Thanks,
George
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#683
***************************************
