Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Thursday, November 22 2001  Volume 01 : Number 681




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 14:04:32 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Forced air to rotors, marine bilge blower

Here's a link to one supplier, the H20 pvc pipe looking are the one's you want.  The others are much more heavy duty, but do not flow more air, and are bigger, costlier, etc. great for a boat, not for racing.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/commerce/command/CategoryDisplay?cgmenbr=201&cgrfnbr=563&outlet=

These are 3in or 4in by about 8in long, with weather resistant motor leads. These could be plumbed 'in-line' after the airbox, or into the air box, whichever works for your application.
These could be directly controled with a brake switch, or other suitable higher amp switch or relay. The one I have on my NT is an add-on to my Leafblower. I only use it at the track, so  just hook the wires straight to the battery when I am ready to go out. It's that easy to test it out and see what it buys you.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 11:05 AM
To: Zobel, Kurt
Cc: Furman, Russell; 'Merritt'; 'Team 3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Forced air to rotors, marine bilge blower


How large is this bilge lower?

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 13:26:00 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Forced air to rotors

I can only PRAY that they'll work that good!!
Rich

At 11:51 AM 11/21/01 -0600, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>It CAN hurt, if your brake pads require a high minimum operating temperature
>and your blowers keep the pads below that temp.  That's why Hawk Blue pads
>chunk so bad when you use them on the street - you can't maintain the
>minimum operating temperature.
>
>Chuck Willis

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 13:24:53 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Forced air to rotors

At 12:44 PM 11/21/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Rich, do you remember where you got the blowers from?   I know senility is
>starting to set in at you distinguished age  ;)  
>  This sounds like it should work and would be great for the Appalachian
>runs planned for this summer.

Go to www.bsrproducts.com
click on Product Overview
click on Air Ducts
***wait forever for the pdf reader to download**
Click NEXT at the bottom of the page.
Scroll down half the page until you see BSR-001-BO Air Blower 3 in. hose.

There are three possibilities in the photo.
I know that model .BO costs $22 and .B costs $18.21.

Pretty dang cheap for blowers that push 170 or 145 cfm.

Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 13:37:37 -0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: Mechanics and the like...

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
To: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 1:28 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mechanics and the like...


> It doesn't sound like they actually opened the transmission (transaxle
> actually).  Replacing the clutch won't do a thing to fix your synchro
> problem, nor does it require the transmission to be opened (just taken
off).
> If your warranty company let's you send it to Kormex and have them fix it.
> Later,
> Christopher
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@home.com>
> To: <Team3S@team3s.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 11:48 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Mechanics and the like...
>
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> >     After a long battle with the warranty company, I got them to pay for
a
> > tranny rebuild. I took it to Roadmasters Transmissions in Schaumburg, IL
> > where it was torn open, and they put in an RPS stage II for me. Here's
my
> > problem - before they tore it open, I was having what I thought to be
> > synchro problems. It was hard to get the car into first if it was
moving,
> > and half the time I couldn't get it into reverse at all w/o moving the
car
> > an inch or so. Also the shifter always popped forward about half-way
> > whenever I shifted into 6th. They tore it open, told me that the clutch
I
> > had in there (I'm assuming it was factory, @60K) was shot and that was
> > causing all of my problems. They also told me that the main bearing on
my
> > rear drive shaft was gone, and they replaced that (well, not the
bearing,
> > but the entire assy). After they put it back together I have the
following
> > problems. It feels like (I can't actually hear it most of the time) it's
> > grinding when shifting into 2nd, and 3rd. It's still hard to get into
1st
> if
> > the car is moving at all. Still have the same reverse issues. The
shifter
> > still pops forward in 6th, but now it also does that in 4th. Also the
> > shifter doesn't center anymore. If it's pushed away (towards 5th, 6th
and
> R)
> > it comes back just fine. If it's pulled towards the driver (1st, 2nd) it
> > stays there.
> >
> >     Could all of this be because of a loose gear shift linkage, or do I
> need
> > to resort to lawyer friends of mine?
> >
> > Thanks a lot for all you input,
> >
> >     Alex (w/ a '95 VR4 and non-stop tranny issues)
> >
> >
> > ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 15:13:46 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes

My Pontiac Grand Prix has thicker ventilated rotors then on my VR-4--pretty
lame for mitsu to skimp on such an important aspect of the car.

Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
To: 'Team 3S' <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 2:45 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes


>Speaking of extra cooling on the rotors, you guys/gals know that the MKIV
>rotors have vanes in them and they are installed to spin the opposite of
the
>way most people think they should.
>
>http://www.mkiv.com/specifications/ncf/ncf93/ncf168.jpg    bottom of this
>page.
>
>We had a lister try out switching them around and he got about 50% less
>service life (track duty) before warping compared to installing them
>according to the repair manual.  He uses cryoed stock rotors on the track
>and street.
>
>
>This leads me to think that cryoed slotted rotors turning the opposite of
>what we normally install them would possibly last longer anyone wanna give
>it a go?  I would but I just put cryoed stock rotors on the lady, If I get
>no volunteers I will test it out myself in the spring.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: John Christian [SMTP:jczoom_619@yahoo.com]
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 6:47 PM
>> To: Willis, Charles E.; Team 3S
>> Subject: RE: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes
>>
>> I guess I should check my boots, but maybe the extra
>> cooling from the Supra rotors save the boots.
>>
>> Be of good cheer,
>> John
>>
>>
>> --- "Willis, Charles E."
>> <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org> wrote:
>> > my dust boots seem to get cooked in
>> > short order (even the ones on the calipers without
>> > powder coating, Geoff!).
>> > If I was only driving the car on the track, I might
>> > consider leaving them
>> > off, but our streets still have lots of mud puddles.
>> >
>> > Chuck Willis
>> >
>> > > -----Original Message-----
>> > > From: bdtrent [SMTP:bdtrent@netzero.net]
>> > > Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 3:46 PM
>> > > To: Team 3S
>> > > Subject: Re: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes
>> > >
>> > > I was told by a Brembo app. engineer that dust
>> > seals can't hold up to
>> > > track
>> > > use over a long period of time.  He suggested
>> > either removing them as race
>> > > preped systems do and live with the accelerated
>> > piston wear from
>> > > contaminents, or plan on replacing them as needed.
>> > >
>> > > Regards,
>> > > DaveT/92TT
>>
>>
>> =====
>> Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
>> '93 TT with Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
>> 12.4@109MPH  5/97 almost stock
>> http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 12:35:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes

Ok..but how wide are they?

Size is -not- everything.

On Wed, 21 Nov 2001, Sam Shelat wrote:

> My Pontiac Grand Prix has thicker ventilated rotors then on my VR-4--pretty
> lame for mitsu to skimp on such an important aspect of the car.
>
> Sam
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
> To: 'Team 3S' <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Date: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 2:45 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes
>
>
> >Speaking of extra cooling on the rotors, you guys/gals know that the MKIV
> >rotors have vanes in them and they are installed to spin the opposite of
> the
> >way most people think they should.
> >
> >http://www.mkiv.com/specifications/ncf/ncf93/ncf168.jpg    bottom of this
> >page.
> >
> >We had a lister try out switching them around and he got about 50% less
> >service life (track duty) before warping compared to installing them
> >according to the repair manual.  He uses cryoed stock rotors on the track
> >and street.
> >
> >
> >This leads me to think that cryoed slotted rotors turning the opposite of
> >what we normally install them would possibly last longer anyone wanna give
> >it a go?  I would but I just put cryoed stock rotors on the lady, If I get
> >no volunteers I will test it out myself in the spring.
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: John Christian [SMTP:jczoom_619@yahoo.com]
> >> Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 6:47 PM
> >> To: Willis, Charles E.; Team 3S
> >> Subject: RE: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes
> >>
> >> I guess I should check my boots, but maybe the extra
> >> cooling from the Supra rotors save the boots.
> >>
> >> Be of good cheer,
> >> John
> >>
> >>
> >> --- "Willis, Charles E."
> >> <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org> wrote:
> >> > my dust boots seem to get cooked in
> >> > short order (even the ones on the calipers without
> >> > powder coating, Geoff!).
> >> > If I was only driving the car on the track, I might
> >> > consider leaving them
> >> > off, but our streets still have lots of mud puddles.
> >> >
> >> > Chuck Willis
> >> >
> >> > > -----Original Message-----
> >> > > From: bdtrent [SMTP:bdtrent@netzero.net]
> >> > > Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 3:46 PM
> >> > > To: Team 3S
> >> > > Subject: Re: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes
> >> > >
> >> > > I was told by a Brembo app. engineer that dust
> >> > seals can't hold up to
> >> > > track
> >> > > use over a long period of time.  He suggested
> >> > either removing them as race
> >> > > preped systems do and live with the accelerated
> >> > piston wear from
> >> > > contaminents, or plan on replacing them as needed.
> >> > >
> >> > > Regards,
> >> > > DaveT/92TT
> >> > >
> >> >
> >> > ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
> >>
> >>
> >> =====
> >> Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
> >> '93 TT with Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
> >> 12.4@109MPH  5/97 almost stock
> >> http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 15:18:33 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes

the issue isn't just thicker it is diameter.... Just look at the size diff
from 93-94

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Shelat [SMTP:sshelat@erols.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 10:14 AM
> To: Furman, Russell; 'Team 3S'
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes
>
> My Pontiac Grand Prix has thicker ventilated rotors then on my
> VR-4--pretty
> lame for mitsu to skimp on such an important aspect of the car.
>
> Sam
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
> To: 'Team 3S' <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Date: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 2:45 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes
>
>
> >Speaking of extra cooling on the rotors, you guys/gals know that the MKIV
> >rotors have vanes in them and they are installed to spin the opposite of
> the
> >way most people think they should.
> >
> >http://www.mkiv.com/specifications/ncf/ncf93/ncf168.jpg    bottom of this
> >page.
> >
> >We had a lister try out switching them around and he got about 50% less
> >service life (track duty) before warping compared to installing them
> >according to the repair manual.  He uses cryoed stock rotors on the track
> >and street.
> >
> >
> >This leads me to think that cryoed slotted rotors turning the opposite of
> >what we normally install them would possibly last longer anyone wanna
> give
> >it a go?  I would but I just put cryoed stock rotors on the lady, If I
> get
> >no volunteers I will test it out myself in the spring.
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: John Christian [SMTP:jczoom_619@yahoo.com]
> >> Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 6:47 PM
> >> To: Willis, Charles E.; Team 3S
> >> Subject: RE: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes
> >>
> >> I guess I should check my boots, but maybe the extra
> >> cooling from the Supra rotors save the boots.
> >>
> >> Be of good cheer,
> >> John
> >>
> >>
> >> --- "Willis, Charles E."
> >> <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org> wrote:
> >> > my dust boots seem to get cooked in
> >> > short order (even the ones on the calipers without
> >> > powder coating, Geoff!).
> >> > If I was only driving the car on the track, I might
> >> > consider leaving them
> >> > off, but our streets still have lots of mud puddles.
> >> >
> >> > Chuck Willis
> >> >
> >> > > -----Original Message-----
> >> > > From: bdtrent [SMTP:bdtrent@netzero.net]
> >> > > Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 3:46 PM
> >> > > To: Team 3S
> >> > > Subject: Re: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes
> >> > >
> >> > > I was told by a Brembo app. engineer that dust
> >> > seals can't hold up to
> >> > > track
> >> > > use over a long period of time.  He suggested
> >> > either removing them as race
> >> > > preped systems do and live with the accelerated
> >> > piston wear from
> >> > > contaminents, or plan on replacing them as needed.
> >> > >
> >> > > Regards,
> >> > > DaveT/92TT
> >> > >
> >> >
> >> > ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
> >>
> >>
> >> =====
> >> Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
> >> '93 TT with Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
> >> 12.4@109MPH  5/97 almost stock
> >> http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 15:53:12 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Any takers..initial offering.

Anyone in SoCal interested in this as a shared project?
I don't have room right now, but if someone has a place to work on it, I think this would be a perfect project car. 

please reply by private email or phone,
Kurt Zobel
Moreno Valley, CA 92557
909-924-6137hm

- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 10:43 AM
To: 3sracers@speedtoys.com
Cc: team3s@team3s.com
Subject: 3S-Racers: Any takers..initial offering.


One very stripped and lightweight 95 black VR4 chassis.  Approx 1200lbs
lighter.

Other than non-essential steel, it is complete on the bottom end, still
has main glass and doors.

Block is bored and ready for build.  Needs crank, and whatever custom
pistons/rods you want.
Heads are shaved, and ready for work
Other parts of the long block are complete as well..just in boxes.

Comes with $1800 Tilton 2-stage racing clutch/flywheel combination..weighs
13lbs complete.
Comes with big-red upgrade, 600 miles on them W/new cryo rotors.
Comes with 1000Hp fuel pump
Motor mounts are converted to solid
Comes with a good 6spd tranny with 7k on it.
Comes with complete unboxed Alamo IC and plumbing kit..the large one.
Comes with seat rails to fot Sparco seats..no seats included.

Asking $6k.

We -may- finish it some day, but for $6k someone else can.

It only really needs the motor rebuilt, or a stocker tossed in, cage, and
seats...at only 3000lbs or so..it would just _scream_ with only a minor
turbo upgrade.

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 17:45:25 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: Datalogger Request

It would seem that Technomotive is no longer operating.  I tried to order a
new Datalogger for two weeks now, but have been unable to contact anyone at
Technomotive.  Buschur is no longer taking orders as they have a back order
that isn't getting filled.  This may seem like a strange request, but I
would love to have one for just a day or two so I can at least find out
whats happening in my current state of tune.  Would anyone be willing to
rent me the use of one for a few days.  I will gladly send a check for the
full amount until the cable and software are safely returned.  I'm thinking
$30-40 plus shipping would help offset the initial cost to someone.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT
bdtrent@netzero.net

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 15:05:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Any takers..initial offering.

I forgot to add it also comes with a Buschur silicone filled lightweight
harmonic balancer/under-drive pulley as well.

On Wed, 21 Nov 2001, Geoff Mohler wrote:

> One very stripped and lightweight 95 black VR4 chassis.  Approx 1200lbs
> lighter.
>
> Other than non-essential steel, it is complete on the bottom end, still
> has main glass and doors.
>
> Block is bored and ready for build.  Needs crank, and whatever custom
> pistons/rods you want.
> Heads are shaved, and ready for work
> Other parts of the long block are complete as well..just in boxes.
>
> Comes with $1800 Tilton 2-stage racing clutch/flywheel combination..weighs
> 13lbs complete.
> Comes with big-red upgrade, 600 miles on them W/new cryo rotors.
> Comes with 1000Hp fuel pump
> Motor mounts are converted to solid
> Comes with a good 6spd tranny with 7k on it.
> Comes with complete unboxed Alamo IC and plumbing kit..the large one.
> Comes with seat rails to fot Sparco seats..no seats included.
>
> Asking $6k.
>
> We -may- finish it some day, but for $6k someone else can.
>
> It only really needs the motor rebuilt, or a stocker tossed in, cage, and
> seats...at only 3000lbs or so..it would just _scream_ with only a minor
> turbo upgrade.
>
> Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 16:59:39 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Datalogger Request

If you have a Palm Pilot, you can use PocketLogger (DSM version for your '92
car will work).

http://www.pocketlogger.com/?page=prod&prod=dsm

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 18:43:42 EST
From: RDO26@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Japan CAPS?

Has anyone successfuly downloaded the program Oleg was offering?

Ron

Japan CAPS will be in my hand after 1 week, I'll see what they have.
>
> Interesting thing - there are 5-speed VR4 in Europe from 94.06 till
> 96.05!!!!! The CAPS show 5 and 6 speed cars at the same period till may
> 1996.
>
> Regards,
>
> Oleg Reznik
> www.3000gt.lv

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 17:26:25 -0700
From: "Will Fortenberry" <BigWill_VR4@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Stutter with low fuel

Hey all,

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions. I've been on the list for a
while just watching. I'm having an odd problem with my 94 VR-4 (bpu). When I
get to 1/4-1/8 tank of gas, the engine will miss very badly above 3500rpm.
It gets worse as the fuel level gets lower. When I put gas in the car, it
immediately goes away.
In the past, I was able to go another 90 miles or so with no problems. Any
ideas?

Thanks,
Will

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 17:47:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger Request

Dave,

Just buy the PocketLOGGER ($155) and a Palm m100 (~$100 at Target).
All the info and functionality are the same. However, the TMO makes
prettier pictures of data afterwards than the PL.

http://www.pocketlogger.com/

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- --- bdtrent <bdtrent@netzero.net> wrote:
> It would seem that Technomotive is no longer operating ...
<snip>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 03:23:59 -0500
From: MIHAI RAICU <mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Car idle problem

Alan,

My brother and I experience it every once in a blue moon(on a
94 TT and a 95 VR4, but never on 93 Stealth base).  It is
exactly how you describe it.  We have reported the problem to
the list, but nobody gave a satisfactory
explanation/solution. 

Most people will not see the problem because they only start
the car when it is cold (7AM and 4PM).  However, if you go
somewhere where you don't stay too long (~45 min), you may
experience a rough idle for 10 sec.

- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4

Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 10:27:34 -0500
From: "Alan C. Sheffield" <a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Car idle problem

I have an odd car idle problem.  When the car has been driven
and I leave it
for less than 2~ hours. It will not hold idle when started. I
have to give
it extra gas to keep it going. After 15-30 seconds it is then
fine. for the
rest of the trip. Cold starts are fine too.

Suggestions ?

Alan

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 09:52:44 +0100
From: Henri Le Hir <hlehir@lucent.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE:Car Options

>>So is there anybody out there that has a factory alarm and no keyless
entry
>>to disprove this theory?

I'm afraid so.

I have a 92 Stealth RT/TT, is has a working factory alarm, and both doors
can be operated through electrical buttons.

However...I wanted to buy some keyless remote, and before actually placing
an order, I removed the back seat to see the keyless electronic module (by
the back seat)

No such thing in my car...and not even a connector on the harness.

Guess I'll have to do it otherwise

Best

Henri

- ------------------------

If your car has an electronic lock/unlock switch in the inside, most
aftermarket car alarms will provide that functionality for you. If you don't
have electronic locks there are other options that make use of "solenoids" I
believe. I would first check if your doesn't already have a wireless remote
though.

Here's my theory on checking based on owning 3 Chrysler products: '95 Talon
(no keyless entry, no factory alarm), '96 Avenger (keyless entry, factory
alarm), and a '94 Stealth (keyless entry, factory alarm).  After you shut
off your car, open the door and press the lock button, now shut the door.
If a "Security" light turns on in the instrument cluster that means you have
a factory alarm.  This also means your car probably came originally with
keyless entry

So is there anybody out there that has a factory alarm and no keyless entry
to disprove this theory?

Later,
Christopher

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 08:00:34 -0500 (EST)
From: kimbyrd@webtv.net (Kimberly Byrd)
Subject: Team3S: using oil

Thanks for all of the past input. I have a little additional info. I
found out that the Mitsubishi service dept was covering for the dealer
when the mechanic told me that it is normal to add 1 quart of oil every
1,000 miles. Now I know why you call them "Satan!" The car does not
smoke during normal driving, but if I allow it to sit at idle for 3 or 4
minutes, blue smoke comes out of the tailpipes. I called the dealer back
and he said that it was "valve seats." Do you guys buy that? I wish that
he had told me before I bought the car. The dealer said that it costs
about $250 to repair. Is he being honest? The car runs like a dream, but
I want to get to the bottom of this oil consumption problem. Thanks,
guys and Happy Thanksgiving!
Kim

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 10:49:52 -0500
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE:Car Options

I purchased my car new in 92 and the dealer told me there was no keyless
entry system on the car.  I also checked my sales brochures, the first
mention of keyless entry, is in 1993 under the comfort and convenience
section as refers to it as "Power locks w/one touch keyless locking".  And
it also not mentioned in the Authorized Mitsubishi accessories booklet for
1992.

And of course it's not in my 1991 Dodge or Mitsubishi sales brochures
either.

Dave Best

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE:Car Options

> If your car has an electronic lock/unlock switch in the inside, most
> aftermarket car alarms will provide that functionality for you. If you
don't
> have electronic locks there are other options that make use of "solenoids"
I
> believe. I would first check if your doesn't already have a wireless
remote
> though.
>
> Here's my theory on checking based on owning 3 Chrysler products: '95
Talon
> (no keyless entry, no factory alarm), '96 Avenger (keyless entry, factory
> alarm), and a '94 Stealth (keyless entry, factory alarm).  After you shut
> off your car, open the door and press the lock button, now shut the door.
> If a "Security" light turns on in the instrument cluster that means you
have
> a factory alarm.  This also means your car probably came originally with
> keyless entry
>
> So is there anybody out there that has a factory alarm and no keyless
entry
> to disprove this theory?
>
> Later,
> Christopher
>
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: David Allison [SMTP:daedel@mac.com]
> > > Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 6:28 PM
> > > To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> > > Subject: Re: Team3S: RE:Car Options
> > >
> > > On that note, if the 94 base model
> > > does not come with keyless entry, how much would a system like that
cost
> > > to install?
> > >
> > > David

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 14:11:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: A note for the holidays..

Team3s content before the spam:  I will be adding V*rus checking for all
incoming and outbound internet traffic here today/tonight, so yesterday's
outbreak shouldnt happen again.  The product is Carrier Scan for Network
Attached Storage if anyone wants to check it out.

A note for the Holidays..and how to spend it with your car:

The NSX guys worry about Porsches
The Pantera guys worry about Corvettes
The Ferrari guys worry about McLarens
The Mustang guys worry about Firebirds
The Firebird guys worry about Camaros
The 300ZX guys worry about RX7s
And here we are worrying about Ferraris.

Are we adequate?
 
Do we have issues with self-esteem?

Is Beethoven "better" than Bach? 
Is Ch. Haut-Brion "better" than St. Emilion? 
Is Picasso "better" than Kandinsky?
Is Macintosh "better" than Windows?
Is a Redwood "better" than a Dutch Elm?
Is Yosemite "better" than Yellowstone?
Is Paris "better" than New York?
Is Pininfarina "better" than Bertone?
Is Lamborghini "better" than Ferrari?

Here are your orders:

1. Give all that about 5 seconds thought (time's up!)
2. Shut off the computer.
3. Go out to the garage.
4. If it doesn't run, fix it.
5. If does run, drive it.
6. Repeat steps 3 through 5 until step 1 is no longer possible.

Happy Holidays.

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #681
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