Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, November 20 2001
Volume 01 : Number
679
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 19 Nov 2001 17:37:10 -0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE:Cruise Control Problem
The first thing i would check would be
the vacuum connection at the vacuum
pump.
The box on the drivers side of
the engine compartment with all the cables
connected to it should have a
vacuum hose attached below all the cables.
This vacuum nipple has a tendency
to break off the vacuum pump.
Wayne
At 08:43 AM 11/19/01 ,
AMastrangelo@giwindustries.com
wrote:
>The ASC and Cruise on light comes on, but the cruise will not hold
at all.
>Any suggestions?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 17:17:26
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Changing back sparkplugs on 94 3000gt SL
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/SparkPlugs/PlugChange.htmlhas
pretty pictures, too!
- --Erik
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
>
>
www.Team3S.com/FAQplugs.htm>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "RJM" <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
> > Is
there a place on the website that shows how to get at
> the back plugs or
can anyone help?
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 15:09:50
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Top Speed
> ..and what was the qtr and final time to max
speed?
They never got the timing gear working. When I got to the braking
mark I was
still accelerating hard in 4th gear.
>
> Since we've
been discussing it, was the 1/2 km, about qtr mile braking
zone any
problem?
Very borderline at that speed , I didn't want to stomp on the
brakes too
hard.
Steve
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 18:36:24
-0800
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@imedia.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Powder coating of brake calipers - price and operatin g
temp
I didn't confirm the material choice, but I don't think it is a cost
driver.
From my research it appears we would need a TGIC polyester
coating.
yeah, $120 sounded high to me, too.
what was the
operating temperature of the compound your source was using?
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Watkins, Jim
[SMTP:jim.watkins@imedia.com]
> Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 2:40
PM
> To: 'Willis, Charles E.';
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Powder coating of brake calipers - price and
>
operatin g temp
>
>
> "I finally got around to asking my
brother-in-law about the powder coating
> job the did gratis on two sets
of our stock front brake calipers. He told
> me that they would
charge $120 per pair to do the same work commercially."
>
> I
received two quotes for $85 - $135 to have all four calipers powder
>
coated. The range in price was because they hadn't seen the parts
and
> didn't know how much cleaning would be needed.
>
>
Jim
> 95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 19:28:20
-0800
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: lug
nuts
Anyone know the torque specs on lug nuts? Is it 90 or 100 Nm? I
can't
remember.
Thanks!
Rich
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 23:44:43
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: lug nuts
I thought it was 90 FT*LBS (NOT N*m) so be careful what
scale you are
using. I use 95 ft*lbs but might have recalled that it
was 85 ft*lbs.
Most AutoX and Road Course torque wrenches were set to a basic
standard
of 90 or 95 ft*lbs. 120 ft*lbs did not snap off four lug nuts
before I
felt that it just didn't seem right and checked the setting and
undid
them then put them back on correctly.
I know some people snap
them so be careful. Maybe increments like 45
ft*lbs then 90 ft*lbs
would be safe.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Richard
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001
22:28
Anyone know the torque specs on lug nuts? Is it 90 or 100 Nm?
I can't
remember.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 21:07:21
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: lug nuts
Lugnut torque is more a wheel thing, than a stud
thing.
True..too much can snap it, but you can damage a wheel with the
wrong
torque before you'll damage a stud. Use the vehicle rating, and
make a
common sense judgement if your wheels are NOT oem and have a
differnt
rating.
On Mon, 19 Nov 2001, Darren Schilberg
wrote:
> I thought it was 90 FT*LBS (NOT N*m) so be careful what scale
you are
> using. I use 95 ft*lbs but might have recalled that it was
85 ft*lbs.
> Most AutoX and Road Course torque wrenches were set to a
basic standard
> of 90 or 95 ft*lbs. 120 ft*lbs did not snap off
four lug nuts before I
> felt that it just didn't seem right and checked
the setting and undid
> them then put them back on correctly.
>
> I know some people snap them so be careful. Maybe increments like
45
> ft*lbs then 90 ft*lbs would be safe.
>
>
--Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Richard
> Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 22:28
>
> Anyone know the torque specs on lug nuts? Is it 90 or 100 Nm? I
can't
> remember.
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 00:43:29
-0500
From:
Romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: Team3S: Engine Blow Out...
Hey Fellows,
Thanks in
advance for any input on my problem.
I have 94 VR-4 with 114K on it,
engine had a knock to it and the car was sitting for 8 month. The knock was very
loud sounded like a bad Rod; it was coming from underneath the front valve
cover. Well I was on the way to take it to the shop and about 3 miles down the
road the engine stopped and oil was all over the road. It came from underneath
the car, when that happened my friend said that he saw sparks coming from the
left exhaust. Than I could not start the car and the starter doesn't turn the
engine.
Today the car is in the shop Lascuola Motorworks
http://www.lmsspeed.com they will be
looking to see if the block cracked or what could be the problem.
To cut the
story short, I will be rebuilding the motor or will order a new block from
Mitsubishi about $3500 brand new plus labor.
I was thinking to put some
performance parts "pistons, rods, etc..." but don't know enough about the
engines yet. What do you recommend??? What brand names and if you have some
ballpark figures on the costs. Do you know any good shops in Maryland, I am from
Baltimore MD.
I hope when I am done I hope the motor will handle over
16psi
Thank you so much for your input.
Roman G.
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 03:13:57
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OBDII revisited
I think this may win the award for one of the top
10 threads in the
archives. However, a friend told me that the 1995
VR-4 may or may not
have OBDII "stuff." I will go check the under hood
sticker tomorrow and
look for the "OBDI compliant" phrase or whatever it
has.
Is there any clear-cut date when these systems were switched
over? I
have what appears to be a 1995-1/2 VR-4 since it has the power
sunroof
and no ECS but the doorjamb sticker reads "Mfg 11/1994." Just
wondering
if people have a nice compact list of when in the year the OBDI
was
changed to the OBDII or if it is different for Stealth and 3000GT
or
Spyder (US models are most interesting to me).
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4 (mfg in 11/1994)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 08:15:19
-0500
From:
AMastrangelo@giwindustries.comSubject:
Team3S: RE:Tune Up
What spark plugs/wires do you recommend for a 1992
3000 DOHC Non-Turbo? And
what is the gap on
them?
Thanks
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 07:59:34
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes
Now I don't feel like such a jerk
since my dust boots seem to get cooked in
short order (even the ones on the
calipers without powder coating, Geoff!).
If I was only driving the car on
the track, I might consider leaving them
off, but our streets still have lots
of mud puddles.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: bdtrent [SMTP:bdtrent@netzero.net]
> Sent:
Monday, November 19, 2001 3:46 PM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes
>
> I was told by a Brembo app.
engineer that dust seals can't hold up to
> track
> use over a long
period of time. He suggested either removing them as race
> preped
systems do and live with the accelerated piston wear from
> contaminents,
or plan on replacing them as needed.
>
> Regards,
>
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 08:01:53
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: lug nuts
How about 90 Ft lbs?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Richard [SMTP:radanc@home.com]
> Sent: Monday,
November 19, 2001 9:28 PM
> Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: lug nuts
>
>
> Anyone know the torque specs
on lug nuts? Is it 90 or 100 Nm? I can't
> remember.
>
>
Thanks!
> Rich
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 09:03:42
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes
Random thought on the dust boots
issue... the stockers are made out of
rubber?!!! Why no make some out
of poly urethane?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis,
Charles E. [SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Tuesday,
November 20, 2001 9:00 AM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Rebuilding Porsche brakes
>
> Now I don't feel like such a jerk
since my dust boots seem to get cooked
> in
> short order (even the
ones on the calipers without powder coating,
> Geoff!).
> If I was
only driving the car on the track, I might consider leaving them
> off,
but our streets still have lots of mud puddles.
>
> Chuck
Willis
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
bdtrent [SMTP:bdtrent@netzero.net]
> > Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001
3:46 PM
> > To: Team 3S
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Rebuilding
Porsche brakes
> >
> > I was told by a Brembo app. engineer
that dust seals can't hold up to
> > track
> > use over a long
period of time. He suggested either removing them as
> race
>
> preped systems do and live with the accelerated piston wear from
>
> contaminents, or plan on replacing them as needed.
> >
>
> Regards,
> > DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 09:37:28
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: OBDII revisited
They didn't go directly from OBDI to
OBDII. '94 and '95 were some type of
mutant OBDI/OBDII mix. As
for the cutover from bastard child to OBDII, I'm
not sure if any '95s had
real OBDII, but I believe all '96s do.
My bet is you have the mutant.
:(
Christopher
'94 Stealth TT with mutant OBD
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
November 20, 2001 2:13 AM
Subject: Team3S: OBDII revisited
> I
think this may win the award for one of the top 10 threads in the
>
archives. However, a friend told me that the 1995 VR-4 may or may
not
> have OBDII "stuff." I will go check the under hood sticker
tomorrow and
> look for the "OBDI compliant" phrase or whatever it
has.
>
> Is there any clear-cut date when these systems were
switched over? I
> have what appears to be a 1995-1/2 VR-4 since it
has the power sunroof
> and no ECS but the doorjamb sticker reads "Mfg
11/1994." Just wondering
> if people have a nice compact list of
when in the year the OBDI was
> changed to the OBDII or if it is different
for Stealth and 3000GT or
> Spyder (US models are most interesting to
me).
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 (mfg in
11/1994)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 10:27:34
-0500
From: "Alan C. Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Car idle problem
I have an odd car idle problem. When the
car has been driven and I leave it
for less than 2~ hours. It will not hold
idle when started. I have to give
it extra gas to keep it going. After 15-30
seconds it is then fine. for the
rest of the trip. Cold starts are fine
too.
Suggestions ?
Alan
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 10:55:54
-0500
From:
AMastrangelo@giwindustries.comSubject:
Team3S: RE:Car Options
Is there a site I can go to get a list of all the
options my car came with
from factory?
Thanks,
Anthony
1992
GT/SL
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 09:18:32
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: lug nuts
> How about 90 Ft lbs?
Yep, torque spec for
stock wheels/studs/hubs is 90-100ft*lbs. 95 sounds
like a nice number
to me :)
- --Erik
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 12:15:27
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Top Speed
..and what was the qtr and final time to max speed?
Since we've been discussing it, was the 1/2 km, about qtr mile
braking zone any problem?
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Steve Cooper [mailto:scooper@paradise.net.nz]
Sent:
Monday, November 19, 2001 1:50 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Top Speed
Hi
We had a speed run on Saturday, the results
were disappointing due to the
short track.My best run was at 223km/h. the
speedo was showing 150mph .That
was from a hard launch, timed 1/4 mile, then
keep going for 1 km, then 1/2
km for braking.Last year they used the main
runway but another car club
hired it afterwards and broke a landing light
when a porsche spun in the
rain at 250km/h. Thats why we had to use a
taxiway.BTW a Diablo got 249km/h
Nissan Skyline GTR 235km/h, a Corvette about
the same. Official results out
soon at
http://www.ggon.net/Steve
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 13:14:16
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: OBDII revisited
But what does mutant OBD mean? My friend
said the PocketLogger might
work with the mutant version so I may be in luck
(since the PocketLogger
is not like the $2k price tag of other
ones).
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and did not check the sticker under the
hood yet
- -----Original Message-----
From: Christopher
Deutsch
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 10:37
They didn't go
directly from OBDI to OBDII. '94 and '95 were some type
of
mutant
OBDI/OBDII mix. As for the cutover from bastard child to
OBDII,
I'm
not sure if any '95s had real OBDII, but I believe all '96s
do.
My bet is you have the mutant. :(
Christopher
'94 Stealth TT with
mutant OBD
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 12:23:56
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OBDII revisited
> But what does mutant OBD mean? My
friend said the
> PocketLogger might work with the mutant version so I
may be
> in luck (since the PocketLogger is not like the $2k price tag
> of other ones).
It won't work, or at least when recently tested
it didn't. Unless the
PocketLogger folks recently put some special
effort into supporting the
'94-95 3S ECU it won't work. The mutant
version in '94-95 is neither OBD-I
or OBD-II. The only thing that'll
interface with it is Mitsubishi's DRB
scantool ($2000+). The old
version (DSM version) won't plug into the
datalink connector on the car since
that's an OBD-II connector.
We've tried all the goodies. Nothing
works yet.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 10:27:40
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: OBDII revisited
> But what does mutant OBD mean? My
friend said the PocketLogger might
> work with the mutant version so I may
be in luck (since the
> PocketLogger is not like the $2k price tag of
other ones).
My understanding is that they have some of the OBDII
hardware, but not all,
and are not fully OBDII compliant. Further, they
are not fully OBDI
compliant since they have different hardware(sensors, ECU,
etc.) I have no
idea what the ECU is like compared to OBDI and OBDII,
but the PocketLogger
guys have said that there will need to be a separate
version for '94 and '95
3/Ss.
On the hardware note....
AFAIK, OBDI cars have 2 O2 sensors (one before
each pre-cat), and OBDII cars
have 4 O2 sensors (same 2 as OBDI plus 2 more
before and after main cat, or
so I've been told). Get this... my friend's
'94 VR-4 has 4 O2 sensors
(one before and after EACH precat) ... my '95 has
only 2.
Strange...
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
[anxiously awaiting Mutant OBD
PocketLogger]
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 10:49:05
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OBDII revisited
Is the logger only good for DSM/3S hardware,
or will it work on other ODBI
vehicles?
On Tue, 20 Nov 2001, Gross,
Erik wrote:
> > But what does mutant OBD mean? My friend said
the PocketLogger might
> > work with the mutant version so I may be in
luck (since the
> > PocketLogger is not like the $2k price tag of
other ones).
>
> My understanding is that they have some of the
OBDII hardware, but not all,
> and are not fully OBDII compliant.
Further, they are not fully OBDI
> compliant since they have different
hardware(sensors, ECU, etc.) I have no
> idea what the ECU is like
compared to OBDI and OBDII, but the PocketLogger
> guys have said that
there will need to be a separate version for '94 and '95
> 3/Ss.
>
> On the hardware note.... AFAIK, OBDI cars have 2 O2
sensors (one before
> each pre-cat), and OBDII cars have 4 O2 sensors
(same 2 as OBDI plus 2 more
> before and after main cat, or so I've been
told). Get this... my friend's
> '94 VR-4 has 4 O2 sensors (one
before and after EACH precat) ... my '95 has
> only 2.
Strange...
>
> --Erik
> '95 VR-4
> [anxiously awaiting
Mutant OBD PocketLogger]
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 13:30:07
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: OBDII revisited
That is what I was afraid of ... thanks. I
thought someone on the New
Zealand front said something worked for a
reasonable price but my hopes
have been dashed.
Back to
"seat-of-the-pants" driving I guess.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with a
Teenage Mutant Ninja OBD
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch,
Matt
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 13:24
It won't work, or at
least when recently tested it didn't. Unless the
PocketLogger folks
recently put some special effort into supporting the
'94-95 3S ECU it won't
work. The mutant version in '94-95 is neither
OBD-I
or OBD-II.
The only thing that'll interface with it is Mitsubishi's DRB
scantool
($2000+). The old version (DSM version) won't plug into the
datalink
connector on the car since that's an OBD-II connector.
We've tried all
the goodies. Nothing works yet.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 12:33:38
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OBDII revisited
> Is the logger only good for DSM/3S
hardware, or will it work
> on other ODBI vehicles?
There really
wasn't a "standard" for OBD-I, so each of the large
manufacturers implemented
their own version. It only works on DSM/3S cars.
http://www.pocketlogger.com/?page=prodThe
OBD-II version of PocketLogger should work with any truly compliant
OBD-II
vehicle.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 12:34:36
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OBDII revisited
> Get this... my friend's '94 VR-4 has 4
O2 sensors
> (one before and after EACH precat) ... my '95 has
>
only 2. Strange...
Your '95 is probably a "Federal" emissions car
and your friends is a
California emissions car.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 10:57:51
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OBDII revisited
That's my car you guys are talking
about...curses!!!
My precats have been gutted. I wonder how my ECU
is dealing with that? My
car has always run quite rich at idle -
perhaps this is why?
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Jannusch, Matt [mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Tuesday,
November 20, 2001 10:35 AM
> To: 'Gross, Erik';
Team3S@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: OBDII revisited
>
>
> > Get this... my friend's
'94 VR-4 has 4 O2 sensors
> > (one before and after EACH precat) ... my
'95 has
> > only 2. Strange...
>
> Your '95 is
probably a "Federal" emissions car and your friends is a
> California
emissions car.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 11:31:18
-0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <
jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
95 Options List for P03 (Sorrento Red Pearl Metallic)
Here is info from
my car that someone pulled according
to my VIN#JA3AN74K1SY002529
And
another with similar to mine
VIN#JA3AN74KXSY007499. Thanks in advance.
My car had a build date of 94.06.1 while the 2nd car
whose VIN# I
provided appears to be exactly the same
as yours but was built 94.07.2
however.
******************************************************
The
first P03 (Sorrento Red Pearl Metallic?) VR-4 made
for 1995 model year.
-
-JEEPers- Frank:
1995 VR-4. I believe you have the first Sorrento
Red
Pearl Metallic VR-4 made for 1995 model year. Are you
selling it for
the 1999 VR-4 mentioned on your web
page ?
Does "Sorrento Red Pearl
Metallic" sound right ? P03
is the 4th rarest 3/S color. Do you know of a
picture
of this color on the web anywhere or is this in your
sig ? This is
a 3000GT specific color. It's NOT the
rarer P82 Dodge "Orchid Pearl", Mitsu
"Superior
Amethyst Pearl". Can you describe the color ?
Date of
Manufacture: 94.06.1 - First third of June
1994. (First week and a half of
regular production for
model year 1995) There were 11 P03 VR-4's made in
the
first week and a half. All w/ 41D interior, 1 w/ A06
equipment package
and 10 w/ A63 equipment.
Exterior Color Code: P03 - Sorrento Red Pearl
Metallic
(Only available on 1994-1995 3000GT SL & VR-4 models.
Total:
604, 1995 VR-4's: 55)
Interior Code: 41D - Beige Leather w/ manual
trans.
(All but one P03 1995 VR-4 had this interior)
Equipment Code:
A63 - ? Please let me know what
options you have. (Only on VR-4's. Most
popular,
available on 805/1311 model year 1995 VR-4's)
Classification
Code: MJGFL2M - Federal Emissions
Number of 1995 VR-4's: 1311 (1 of
these was special
order or pre-production.)
Above in P03 color: 55
Above w/ 41D interior: 54 (1 with 41A gray leather
interior)
Above w/
A63 equipment: 41
Above w/ Fed. Emissions: 34
Above built 94.06.1: 7
Order of your VIN among all 1995 VR-4's: 12th
Order of your VIN
among all 1995 P03 color VR-4's: 1st
Order of your VIN among all 1995 P03
color cars: 28th
(27 SL's before your VR-4)
=====
-
-Frank-
"JEEPers"
EMERGENCY EMAIL: <
2017479867@mobile.att.net>
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 12:38:45
-0700
From: Michael Crisfield <
mcrisfield@ftmcdowell.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3000 uses oil
I was meaning to ask the list about this
myself...
I had 93K on my NA engine when it spun a bearing and I had
it
rebuilt (2 weeks after I bought it). Since then I'd been taking it
to a
MOBIL OIL Change place and would have them change the oil with Mobil
10w30
(non-synthetic), every 3000 miles (round $25). At about 122K I
decided I
wanted to start using MOBIL synthetic every 3K. The MOBIL
shop wanted $45
to change my oil with synthetic so I decided to start doing
my own oil
changes. I went to Walmart and purchased 5 quarts of MOBIL
10W30 synthetic
for about $18, an oil filter for under $4 and I've got my
synthetic oil
change for under $22. Changing the oil wasn't bad (the
filter is in a
crappy spot at an odd angle but once I got a filter wrench
it's OK).
The first couple oil changes went OK and for the third one
(bout
128K), I decided to add Duralube. I had a Mitsubishi Mighty Max
truck with
a 4-speed that I put Duralube in and drove the hell out of for
140K plus
with no engine work necessary so I was sold on the product. I
used 3 quarts
of MOBIL synthetic 10W30 and 1 quart of Duralube.
Everything went OK except
after a couple thousand miles it started
pinging. I checked the oil and
sure enough I was a couple quarts
low. I hadn't been even 1/2 quart low any
time prior to this oil
change. Needless to say 35K after a rebuild I'm not
too happy to be
losing oil. I checked the drain plug for leakage, I haven't
had any
leakage under my car after parking, and I haven't noticed any smoke
or fresh
residue on my tailpipes. I'm stumped as to what's happening to the
oil
but it consistently loses about a quart of oil every 1000 miles.
After
adding a quart of synthetic every 1000 miles I switched back
to
non-synthetic MOBIL 10W40 for winter.
I wonder if the DuraLube
could have done anything to cause this? My
brother swears by STP
products but looking at some info posted earlier about
these companies
getting sued over false advertising I don't think I'll ever
use any brand of
additive again. I'm rebuilding my tranny for Christmas and
the last
thing I want to do now is spend MORE money on the engine on a car
that I
can't sell for anywhere near what I've put into it. In the meantime
I
check my oil every day or two and hope this problem doesn't get worse.
Any
suggestions on what could cause this, how much it would be to fix,
etc.?
Thanks,
Michael
91 3000GT SL AUTO
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
kimbyrd@webtv.net
[mailto:kimbyrd@webtv.net]
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 4:38 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: 3000 uses oil
I am the proud new owner of a 1994 3000GT na. The
car has 110,000 miles
on it. Hubby changed the oil right after I bought it
and then a second
time a few days ago. I had 3,200 miles on this oil change.
The car was
about 2 1/2 quarts low on oil! I called our local service dept (I
didn't
buy the car there) and the mechanic told me that it is normal to add
1
quart of oil per 1,000 miles. Is this true? My owners manual said
that
it is normal to add oil between changes, but didn't say how much.
I
thought that 2 1/2 quarts was a little much. You guys are the
experts
(and the owners). What do you think?
Kim
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 14:04:59
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3000 uses oil
> I wonder if the DuraLube could have done
anything to
> cause this? My brother swears by STP products but
looking at
> some info posted earlier about these companies getting sued
> over false advertising I don't think I'll ever use any brand
>
of additive again.
DuraLube = bad news. I've seen pictures of a few
blocks that were torn down
and there was DuraLube goop solidified in some of
the oil passages. Not a
good thing.
There's no reason to use
additives of any kind. Just use high-quality oils,
preferably
synthetic. The bearings, cams, crank, etc. in my car's motor
after
60,000 miles of hard use were nearly perfect just with using
Mobil-One
synthetic.
Now the question is this: If you are losing
a quart of oil every 1000
miles, its gotta be going somewhere. Either
the car is burning it, or it is
leaking out somewhere... If it isn't
leaking, then it is burning it at some
point which would lead to maybe valve
seals or rings or something along
those lines. If there's a lot of
blowby it could be going out through the
PCV system and getting sucked back
in through the intake and burned that
way.
Compression tests would
probably be a good thing to check if you are
mechanically inclined.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 15:11:45
-0500
From:
AMastrangelo@giwindustries.comSubject:
Team3S: RE:Tune Up
What are good plug wires/plugs to use for a 1992 GT/SL
DOHC?
Thanks,
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 15:16:48
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE:Tune Up
Don't know if you got a reply on this.
Most
opinions I have seen indicate the stock plugs are most often the best and most
reliable. However, some people have used others with good results, some
not.
No need to regap the stock plugs, leave them at factory spec. if
you have more questions see the FAQ pages, especially if you intend to use
nitrous or super charging.
I changed my NA plugs and wires at 30k, but
later found I had a weak battery, maybe I didn't need to. If you're not pushing
them too hard, and use good fuel, I think they really can last 60k miles.
I just hit 60k, so need the timing belt, and will do the plugs again,
but the car is running better than ever. You may want to change your plug wires
with Magnecor or Jacobs or MCD if they are older.
Kurt
96 NA
- -----Original Message-----
From:
AMastrangelo@giwindustries.com[mailto:AMastrangelo@giwindustries.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, November 20, 2001 5:15 AM
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: RE:Tune Up
What spark plugs/wires do you recommend for a 1992
3000 DOHC Non-Turbo? And
what is the gap on
them?
Thanks
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 14:25:31
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE:Tune Up
> What are good plug wires/plugs to use for a
1992 GT/SL DOHC?
Stock.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 14:29:31
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE:Tune Up
I have this question answered on my FAQ
page....
http://www.daveblack.net/asp/3SiFAQ.asp#plugs
and
http://www.daveblack.net/asp/3SiFAQ.asp#pluggapThe
latter FAQ question addresses decreasing the plug gap to allow for
higher
than stock boost levels.
Dave 95 VR4
The ULTIMATE 3000GT/Stealth
Resource -
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Zobel, Kurt
[SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 2:17
PM
> To:
AMastrangelo@giwindustries.com>
Cc:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE:Tune Up
>
> Don't know if you got a reply
on this.
> Most opinions I have seen indicate the stock plugs are most
often the best
> and most reliable. However, some people have used
others with good
> results, some not.
>
> No need to regap
the stock plugs, leave them at factory spec. if you have
> more questions
see the FAQ pages, especially if you intend to use nitrous
> or super
charging.
> I changed my NA plugs and wires at 30k, but later found
I had a weak
> battery, maybe I didn't need to. If you're not pushing them
too hard, and
> use good fuel, I think they really can last 60k
miles.
>
> I just hit 60k, so need the timing belt, and will
do the plugs again, but
> the car is running better than ever. You may
want to change your plug
> wires with Magnecor or Jacobs or MCD if they
are older.
>
> Kurt 96 NA
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
AMastrangelo@giwindustries.com>
[mailto:AMastrangelo@giwindustries.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001
5:15 AM
> To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: RE:Tune Up
>
> What spark plugs/wires do you
recommend for a 1992 3000 DOHC Non-Turbo?
> And
> what is the gap on
them?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 15:48:18
-0500
From:
AMastrangelo@giwindustries.comSubject:
Team3S: RE:ECU Codes
Does anyone know what the code numbers 71,72, for
the engine, and 49 for
the transmission are on a 1992 GT/SL DOHC
are?
Thanks,
Anthony
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 16:17:01
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3000 uses oil
I've used Duralube in my NA Glacier Pearl for 60K,
usually every other oil change. I agree there may be as many problems with oil
additives as benefits. I have not seen any of the problems.
I use vavoline
syntec, 5-30 or 10-40, and religiously(snicker) change my oil at least every
6000 miles.
If you were burning that much oil, I think you would see
smoke out the tailpipe often.
If you are getting pinging, it seems likely you
may have fouled the plugs, so check at least the front bank along with the
compression check, or have the rebuilder check it while you watch.
Be
careful NOT to overfill. Even after cautioning the dealer, they always want to
put a full 5 qts in. this is good for turbos, but not good for NA, and I have to
drain some oil or wait two weeks to get rid of the oil smell from overfil.
That's why I usually do it myself.
I recall that some people have
adapted a small can or plastic jar as an oil catch, where the tube goes into the
intake tube. The half inch ID tube near the throttle body. That would allow you
to see how much oil is being blown out the upper side of the engine.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
[mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 12:05
PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stCc:
'Michael Crisfield'
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3000 uses oil
> I wonder
if the DuraLube could have done anything to
> cause this? My
brother swears by STP products but looking at
> some info posted earlier
about these companies getting sued
> over false advertising I don't think
I'll ever use any brand
> of additive again.
DuraLube = bad
news. I've seen pictures of a few blocks that were torn down
and there
was DuraLube goop solidified in some of the oil passages. Not a
good
thing.
There's no reason to use additives of any kind. Just use
high-quality oils,
preferably synthetic. The bearings, cams, crank,
etc. in my car's motor
after 60,000 miles of hard use were nearly perfect
just with using Mobil-One
synthetic.
Now the question is this:
If you are losing a quart of oil every 1000
miles, its gotta be going
somewhere. Either the car is burning it, or it is
leaking out
somewhere... If it isn't leaking, then it is burning it at some
point
which would lead to maybe valve seals or rings or something along
those
lines. If there's a lot of blowby it could be going out through the
PCV
system and getting sucked back in through the intake and burned
that
way.
Compression tests would probably be a good thing to check if
you are
mechanically inclined.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 15:19:29
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3000 uses oil
> If you were burning that much oil, I think
you would see
> smoke out the tailpipe often. If you are getting pinging,
it
> seems likely you may have fouled the plugs, so check at least
> the front bank along with the compression check, or have the
>
rebuilder check it while you watch.
Actually if it is pinging it might
be sucking some oil in through the
intake/PCV since oil reduces the octane of
the fuel. Could be a clue as to
where the oil is going.
-
-Matt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 13:33:05
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3000 uses oil
> Actually if it is pinging it might be sucking
some oil in through the
> intake/PCV since oil reduces the octane of the
fuel. Could
> be a clue as to where the oil is going.
Yeah,
that's a thought - check your PCV valve and see if you have any
blow-by
shoving oil back into your intake. A catch-can can be made for
about
$10 in Home Depot parts - this is the one I had on my NA 3000GT.
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/PCVCatchCan/PCVCatchCan.htmlAlso,
not to be overly picky, but the PCV hose is 3/8"ID (1/2"OD), not
1/2"ID, in
case anyone is going out to buy hose...
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 without PCV
catch can because I don't trust my current
homemade version with the 14psi of
my VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 14:29:33
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
PCV Catchcan RE: Team3S: 3000 uses oil
> Thanks for the link
Eric...
>I was just fixing to ask for it ;)
No problem
- that's what it's there for!
> I have a question though. What
if I wanted to block off the
> PCV output from the air intake tube and
instead, but a K&N
> filter on the actual PCV on the camshaft
cover.
I know one of the reasons the PCV system is routed back to
the intake is for
emissions (fumes 'n stuff) containment. However, I've
also heard that the
PCV system requires vacuum (not just ambient air) on the
one side to
properly purge the crankcase of fumes/vapors/acids/etc. that
build up as a
result of the combustion process. I guess a little
blow-by would solve that
problem - though that's probably not the desired
mode of operation.
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 16:14:07
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
PCV Catchcan RE: Team3S: 3000 uses oil
Thanks for the link Eric...
I was just fixing to ask for it ;)
I have a question though.
What if I wanted to block off the PCV output
from the air intake tube and
instead, but a K&N filter on the actual PCV
on the camshaft cover.
If the reason for not doing this is because of
oil backflowing out of it,
then could I mount this separate filter
somewhere down low so it doesn't
matter if it drips a touch of oil?
That way theres no catch can to mess
with...
- -Cody
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/PCVCatchCan/PCVCatchCan.html***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 17:33:11
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE:Car Options
Yes. I have a listing of most specs for all
models and all model years on
my Specifications page at
http://www.daveblack.netDave 95
VR4
The ULTIMATE 3000GT/Stealth Resource -
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
AMastrangelo@giwindustries.com
[SMTP:AMastrangelo@giwindustries.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001
9:56 AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: RE:Car Options
>
> Is there a site I can go to get
a list of all the options my car came with
> from factory?
>
> Thanks,
> Anthony
> 1992 GT/SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 15:47:04
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rebuilding Porsche brakes
I guess I should check my boots, but
maybe the extra
cooling from the Supra rotors save the boots.
Be of
good cheer,
John
- --- "Willis, Charles E."
<
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
wrote:
> my dust boots seem to get cooked in
> short order (even the
ones on the calipers without
> powder coating, Geoff!).
> If I was
only driving the car on the track, I might
> consider leaving them
>
off, but our streets still have lots of mud puddles.
>
> Chuck
Willis
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
bdtrent [SMTP:bdtrent@netzero.net]
> > Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001
3:46 PM
> > To: Team 3S
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Rebuilding
Porsche brakes
> >
> > I was told by a Brembo app. engineer
that dust
> seals can't hold up to
> > track
> > use
over a long period of time. He suggested
> either removing them as
race
> > preped systems do and live with the accelerated
> piston
wear from
> > contaminents, or plan on replacing them as
needed.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
DaveT/92TT
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 18:28:21
-0600
From: David Allison <
daedel@mac.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE:Car Options
This is somewhat of a multithreaded email so reply as
needed.
The information I got from your web site (daveblack.net)
indicates that
the 94 base came with keyless entry. When I bought my car
(about two
weeks ago) I don't remember any mention of keyless entry by the
seller,
and I obviously don't have the keychain control pad that goes with
it.
Does anyone know if the information on edmunds, where the information is
gained from, is correct or I am out of luck in the department. It really
would be nice to have keyless entry. On that note, if the 94 base model
does not come with keyless entry, how much would a system like that cost
to install?
A few more things to note. I remember some discussion a
few weeks back
of replacing the glass of the headlight unit? I believe the
problem was
that it was a sealed unit and the whole thing had to be replaced
for
about 500 dollars. Mitsu quoted me $104 to replace the glass on the
front of my headlights which are cracked from rocks (plastic part
carried only now). So I don't believe the whole unit really needs to be
replaced.
Thats about all, but before I send this off I would like to
thank all of
you on the help you offered on my decision to purchase the car.
It needs
some work but I think it will work out
great.
David
Begin forwarded message:
> From: "Black,
Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
> Date: Tue
Nov 20, 2001 05:33:11 PM US/Central
> To: "
'AMastrangelo@giwindustries.com'"
<
AMastrangelo@giwindustries.com>
>
Cc: "Team3s (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE:Car Options
>
> Yes. I have a listing
of most specs for all models and all model years
> on
> my
Specifications page at
http://www.daveblack.net>
>
Dave 95 VR4
> The ULTIMATE 3000GT/Stealth Resource -
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#679
***************************************