Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Monday, October 29 2001   Volume 01 : Number 659




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Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 13:47:08 EST
From: RDO26@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Smoke in the cockpit

It will cost you between $5.50 and $1000. Seriously. The capacitors that fail
and cause this problem are cheap (~$0.50 each) and if they haven't damaged
the circuit board you just clean up remove and resolder. I managed to
successfully do that once on another car (and then crush the circuit board
under my clutch petal). Or you can find companies that will swap you for ECUs
they've done the same thing to (the soldering, not the crushing) for ~$250 to
~375. Or you can go to Mits and get raped on a new ECU (~$1000)

Good luck

Ron

In a message dated 10/27/2001 6:34:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
byounkman@home.com writes:

<< Subj:     Re: Team3S: Smoke in the cockpit
 Date:  10/27/2001 6:34:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time
 From:  byounkman@home.com (Brad Younkman)
 Sender:    owner-team3s@team3s.com
 To:    Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
 
 Just to let everyone that was thinking it was the ECU behind the radio, it
 sure was. Thanks for the help. Anyone have any idea how much that will cost
 me now? Thanks
 
 Brad
 91 Stealth RT TT
  >>

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Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 13:01:15 -0800 (PST)
From: jim dewbre <ltjdew@athlonoc.com>
Subject: Team3S: power control module testing

My 91 stealth v6dohc tt died on me at stop sign and will not start. engine turns over but no fire to the plugs. I purchased the manuals on cd and in the testing procedures for the power control unit on page 8-254 the first plug on the unit I do not get continuity on the second plug with the 6 prongs I get continuity as on pages 8-258,259 am I headed in the right direction that it is the control unit that is bad.

thanks for the replys

jim Dewbre
meadow, texas

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 08:33:18 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Smoke in the cockpit

Try M+S Recycling they had advertised that they had various mitsu ECU's in
stock.....

www.msrecycling.com/specials/ecu-ecm.html

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 09:45:31 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Rail ?

I know our cars stock fuel rail has the ability to flow enough fuel for 550
CC injectors but can they flow enough fuel for 720 CC injectors?

Russ F
CT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 15:56:36 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Rail ?

No problems at all. It's more a cosmetic upgrade and for people who want to
make everything as perfect as possible. Some internal mods would help in
flow but until now, no pressure drop has yet been seen from anyone I know
of running with large injectors.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

At 09:45 29.10.2001 -0500, Furman, Russell wrote:
>I know our cars stock fuel rail has the ability to flow enough fuel for 550
>CC injectors but can they flow enough fuel for 720 CC injectors?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 10:24:51 -0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Updated: 60k workshop page

Speaking of the 60K and the FAQ.  Wouldn't the redesigned end yoke holder
work if you didn't use a socket on the crank shaft pulley?  I was having
problems with my "alternate" method, until I realized that I didn't need a
socket.  The bolt accepts a 1/4 inch drive wrench.  I'm not sure but from
the picture on the FAQ it looks like the tool would work quite well if you
don't use a socket on your wrench.  Can anyone verify this?  Of course the
"special" tool is still over priced, but maybe the redesigned wasn't as
stupid as mentioned in the FAQ.
Christopher

> > No captions yet, but the pictures are there...  Here's the direct URL:
> >
> > http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/60Kpictures/preview_page1.html
> >

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 09:13:12 -0800
From: "Kai Langendoen" <kail@colubs.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transmission Strength / Seats

To answer the first part of your email... the SL does not share the same
tranny as the VR4.  The SL has a Mitsu tranny, while the VR4 sports the ever
reliable (yeah right) German-made Getrag tranny.

The Getrag takes a lot of heat because its syncros are notorious for going
out, but at the same time its under a lot more pressure than the Mitsu
tranny.  Can't tell you how much HP the Mitsu tranny can bear,
unfortunately.

Kai
'92 Stealth TT

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Kyle
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2001 6:50 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Transmission Strength / Seats

Hi all,
   I was wondering if the tranny for a '93 SL is as strong as a '93 VR4. Is
it the same tranny, only set up for a FWD rather than a 4WD. If not, what
is the maximum safe HP for an SL transmission?

   Also, if you recall, I switched out my cloth seats for leather last
week. It took only half an hour to hook them up. They work great, and add a
lot to my interior.

   When I went to Salt Lake City and met the guy I bought them from, he
told me his VR4 was stolen, and had the engine ripped out. The insurance
company didnt give him what he wanted for the car, so he took everything he
could off the car (body panels, interior panels, seats, etc.) before the
insurance company took it away... does this sound a little bit fishy, or is
it just me? Could these seats be hot? This guy is in college and drives a
BMW Convertible?!?

Kyle Call
'93 SL

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 09:25:58 -0800
From: "Kai Langendoen" <kail@colubs.com>
Subject: Team3S: Portland area people...

I test drove (just for the fun of it... told them I've never driven one
before) a '95 VR4 this weekend at Bryan Bickmore Dodge in Portland, OR.
They said it was traded in recently on a Viper.  Just wondering if anyone
knows who's car this used to be.  I haven't had the opportunity to drive a
modded car before, but I was impressed with this VR4's low end torque and
overall responsiveness... although the AWD seemed to pull me sideways more
than my car does.

Details on the car that I could see...

One owner, regularly serviced
Red '95 w/o a sunroof
Blitz Boost Controller
Open Intake (not K&N... I should know, but going blank... two green filters)
Exhaust upgrade (loud with door open, but not while driving)
Magnecore Wires

If you know, I'm curious.  If you have an idea of how many ponies this car
was touting, then I'd like to know that as well.  Wasn't planning on modding
my car till I drove this one.

And if you're in the area and are interested in the car... they will take
$19,000 for it  (asking $21,000 I think).

Kai Langendoen
'92 Stealth RT TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 13:00:53 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Portland area people...

Nice that you got to drive one of these cars.  I have the 95 w/power
sunroof and Active Aero but no Active exhaust or ECS.  The one you drove
should have had ECS if it is a true 95 VR-4.  You said it had NOT
sunroof?  I thought all VR-4s in second gen had either a manual or auto
sunroof.  If this is the case then this is a hybrid 95 and a first gen
with second gen panels, etc.  Not sure.  Clarification on this perhaps?
Date of mfg on driver door jam perhaps?

Anyway, stock hp for that year is the upgraded 320 (vs. first gens which
were lower).  Max torque is 6,000 rpm and pulls great in 3rd and 4th
gears here.  With the BC, exhaust, and air intake it should be producing
about 350 or so.  If the pre-cats were gutted and a high-flow cat and/or
high-flow muffler and single muffler not one with a resonator it might
produce more (say 360 hp).  Then throw the BC up to 15 psi instead of
stock 12-14 psi and you can get somewhere in the neighborhood of 400
(depending on elevation, temperature, etc.).

You should have been pulled sideways in first and second gear from the
massive torque you had.  Even with the BC off the VR-4 will twist your
head off.  Just a different car from most and these mods though slight
are the performance mods.

Let us know more info but it sounds like you had a blast and the car
sounds like a good solid buy.  The things to look for are the mileage,
60k service, synchro grinding in 2nd and 3rd gears, etc.  I bought my
'95 in 06/2000 when it was 5 years old with 40k miles and it was $24k.
I think there is a sheet on Team3S about what prices should be paid for
cars.  Mine had brand new interior carpet and I had Pirelli P-Zeros
installed so that is why it was about $2k higher than it should have
been.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 at 6.5 years old with 78k miles now (woo-hoo)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Kai Langendoen
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 12:26
 
I test drove (just for the fun of it... told them I've never driven one
before) a '95 VR4 this weekend at Bryan Bickmore Dodge in Portland, OR.
They said it was traded in recently on a Viper.  Just wondering if
anyone
knows who's car this used to be.  I haven't had the opportunity to drive
a
modded car before, but I was impressed with this VR4's low end torque
and
overall responsiveness... although the AWD seemed to pull me sideways
more
than my car does.

Details on the car that I could see...

One owner, regularly serviced
Red '95 w/o a sunroof
Blitz Boost Controller
Open Intake (not K&N... I should know, but going blank... two green
filters)
Exhaust upgrade (loud with door open, but not while driving)
Magnecore Wires

If you know, I'm curious.  If you have an idea of how many ponies this
car
was touting, then I'd like to know that as well.  Wasn't planning on
modding
my car till I drove this one.

And if you're in the area and are interested in the car... they will
take
$19,000 for it  (asking $21,000 I think).

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 13:32:44 -0500
From: "Volthause" <volt@vozuluzov.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Portland area people...

(snip)

> should have had ECS if it is a true 95 VR-4.  You said it had NOT
> sunroof?  I thought all VR-4s in second gen had either a manual or auto
> sunroof.  If this is the case then this is a hybrid 95 and a first gen
> with second gen panels, etc.  Not sure.  Clarification on this perhaps?
> Date of mfg on driver door jam perhaps?

(snip)

Nope.  I've got a '94 VR4 with no sunroof.

- -Scott Holthausen

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #659
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