Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, October 24 2001
Volume 01 : Number
655
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Oct 2001 20:52:58 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE:squirting water
I would agree with 'fast ramp on' in most of
the racing technique links I've seen.
That is what I do, and although I like
to say I sneak up on the brakes, I think it is because if you ramp on, you can
get a 'whole bunch' of braking done before the car 'knows' its
braking.
In reality it is probably around that .5 to 1.0 second to reach
90%, ok 95% after the first few laps. ie, before too much weight transfer and
before too much proportioning dials out the rear brakes.
By the way, in
racing, one thing you Never Ever want to do is Brake!
Only when you are
absolutely forced to through no other alternative!
That said, can we go on to
something else, like who can give a good 'hot lap' of Sears point in a 3SI
car? I'm an NA, so if we have TT and NA description, that'd be
great.
Kurt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 21:01:54
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k workshop -a bit OT
> Well the long and short of it is
that all of the old
> parts that were replaced (and everything in the
FAQ
> list was replaced) were pristine...that's as in
> having no
discernable difference from the new parts
> that replaced
them.
Excellent report on that, I retract my admonishments about it being
a really
good idea to replace the timing belt items after 5-6 years. I
still think
some form of inspection would be a good idea, maybe just removing
the covers
and visually looking for cracks on the belt just in case.
Good to know that
the timing belt is made better than most!
I finally
got the remains of my motor back from the machine shop, so I'll
be
reassembling as much as I can get done this weekend. When I get to
the
point of installing the timing belt and other front-side components
I'll
take lots of pictures - they might be helpful for the timing belt FAQ
to
show component placement better or something.
There's nothing that
looks as nice as a freshly bored/honed/hot-tanked
block. Awww
yeah...
:-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 21:11:39
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NOS injection effect on compression ratio and combustion chamber
volume.
Geoff,
>Compression -ratio- is a value constant to your
hardware..is the
>difference in volume at BDC and TDC
basically.
You need to mention which compression ratio you are talking
about when you
say "compression ratio". You are refering to
"static". I agree that static
compression ratio is constant...hence
"static" and can be measured using a
"burette and graduated cylinder" as the
link below mentions. Dynamic
compression is calculated differently and
is very important for power!
>
>The amount of air/fuel/etc IN
the cylinder has nothing to do wth
>compression ration,
Not
true!
The dynamic compression ratio is what we are interested in, because
just by
changing cams, you can change the dynamic compression ratio.
i.e. longer
duration cam will bleed off air and lower the dynamic
compression ratio.
Forcing air/fuel into the cylinders will increase
the dynamic compression
ratio. I think this is where is NOS question
comes in...does it increase
the dynamic compression ratio? Not
cylinder pressure from burning
air/fuel...but cylinder pressures prior to
ignition.
Check out:
http://www.rehermorrison.com/techTalk/08b.htmMark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 19:22:17
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Lap times at Sears Point.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Zobel,
Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
-
----------snip------------
> By the way, in racing, one thing you Never
Ever want to do is Brake! Only
when you are absolutely forced to
through no other alternative! That said,
can we go on to something else, like
who can give a good 'hot lap' of Sears
point in a 3S car? I'm an NA, so
if we have TT and NA description, that'd
be great.
> Kurt
-
---------------------------->
The shortened track and the lack of a
super-long straight at Sears Point
really "levels the playing field".
If a turbo gains more than a 1/2 second
on the straight, it's a lot...
The top 3 lap times of a Group 4 (mostly
race-prepped cars, & advanced
drivers) HPDE were in the mid- 'minute-thirty
range', 1:33 - 1:37 if I was
hearing right and if memory serves. In one of
his Group 3 runs, I think
Geoff turned around 1:42 in the RX7 TT and I timed
E.T. at 1:47 in our
Stealth NT (SOHC) in Group 2. We didn't spend much time
in "timing",
since you "know" a good run, and it almost doesn't matter...
My guess is that
the 3S turbos will be around 1:3? and your DOHC will be
hovering around the
1:40 mark. You WILL pass less-experienced 911s on this
track in YOUR
car. I know I did in mine!
:-)
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 19:36:25
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: Braking Techniques: Upgraded Front Brakes, But Not
Rears
Funny you should ask ---- about 2 hours ago I was ready to finish
up my rear
brake project and found a problem that will require a temporary
retreat. I was
hoping to have it ready for the Sears Point event this
weekend, but alas it is
not to be. A clearance problem arose which will
result in a minor redesign.
I concur --- I too believe that the rear
brakes are major underachievers,
especially after a front upgrade of calipers
and pads. My Epiphany came when
I overcooked a corner with my ABS disabled [
a long and sordid story ], as a
result I hammered the brakes and seriously
locked up the fronts and not even
a squeak from the rears.
My
solution, which is probably overkill, involves installing my old stock
front
brakes [ 93 TT ] on the rear using an adapter plate and adjusting the
balance
using a pair of proportioning valves [ our dumbass ABS requires some
playing
around ].
It may be possible to accomplish the proper brake
balance with just the
proportioning valves and an upgrade to 2nd gen rotors
and calipers but I've
never been one to leave well enough alone. My solution
would provide an almost
bulletproof, adjustable, rear brake setup, using, in
my case, left over parts and
a few adapters.
The rear E brake remains
unsolved --- it's a matter of money, spot calipers at
$75 each and
modifications to my adapter plate.
Pictures available upon
request.
Jim Berry
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Gross, Erik <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: Team3S
List (E-mail) <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
3sracers List (E-mail) <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 23, 2001 4:59 PM
Subject: 3S-Racers: Braking Techniques:
Upgraded Front Brakes, But Not Rears
> Along the lines of the braking
techniques discussion, I have question:
>
> For people who are
open-tracking, why do most people seem to only be
> concerned with the
front brakes?
>
> I understand that the front brakes do most of the
work when stopping hard,
> because most of the weight is on the front of
our car and even more is
> transferred forward when the car dives.
However, since the rears don't come
> off of the ground during a hard
stop, there is *some* braking potential for
> the rears. If you put
different brakes on the front, such as those with
> larger pads or
stickier pads (higher coefficient of friction), then they are
> going to
exert more braking force on the rotor at a given pedal pressure
> than
stock, thereby lessening the rear participation further.
>
> Throw
some round numbers in for fun...(these *aren't* accurate, just
>
arbitrarily chosen to illustrate my point... or misunderstanding
:-)
>
> Stock(coefficient of friction = 0.4):
> 150lbs of
pedal force yields 1200lbs of braking force on each front rotor
> and
600lbs of braking force on each of the rear rotors. In my pretend
>
world, this is the maximum force that can be exerted by the rotors and
not
> lock up the tires(FRONT and REAR). The total braking force is
3600lbs (1200
> + 1200 + 600 +600).
>
> Modified (better front
pads only with coefficient of friction = 0.6):
> 100lbs of pedal force
yields 1200lbs of braking force on each front rotor
> and 400lbs of
braking force on each of the rear rotors. This is the maximum
>
force that can be exerted by the rotors and not lock up the FRONT tires.
>
The rear tires can withstand 200lbs (each) more braking force before
locking
> up. The total braking force is 3200lbs (1200 + 1200 + 400
+ 400).
>
> Thus, with upgraded brakes you have less total braking
force available
> (although heat dissipation, thermal degradation, and
fade resistance may be
> improved). Thus, you will have to use your
brakes with less pedal pressure
> over a longer distance to slow down by
the same amount. This would say that
> upgrading the rear brakes is
just as important as the fronts in order to be
> able to exert the largest
stopping force on the car. What am I missing
> here? Have I
simplified things too much?
>
> On my first track day, I used R4S
pads on the front and stock on the rear.
> I used them as much as they'd
let me all day (3 hours of track time?) and
> went through a whole set of
front pads. The rears looked almost untouched.
> I know I need
better brake cooling and R4 pads next time(Big Reds if budget
> allows),
but that difference in wear is dramatic. I wonder if I was even
>
using my rear brakes at the track?
>
> So I'm thinking I should get
better rear pads next time as well. I'll have
> R4 pads on the
front, but I'm wondering about the rears. I guess the rears
> won't
see the temperatures the fronts will, so would R4S pads be a better
>
option? Do the rears stay warm enough on the track to make R4 pads
useful?
>
> Thoughts?
> --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 22:53:15
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Porsche 996 caliper adapters
Are these "Big Blacks"? I have
a set of calipers off a 928S4 that I was
told are larger then the big reds,
but found no one locally willing to make
the brackets to get them to
fit. These things are massive with alot of room
for a much thicker
rotor. In fact, my rotors on my new Grand Prix sedan are
about 1/4"
thicker then the stock VR-4 rotors---and I wonder why I warp them
(VR-4) so
fast!?
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff VanOrsdal <
jeffv@1nce.com>
To: Team3s Tech List
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, October 23, 2001 4:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: Porsche 996 caliper
adapters
>I may be able to get a pair of used 996 calipers at a good
deal. This is
why
>I would not purchase the full kit from Brad.
My problem then is I would
>need the hardware alone. Brackets,
hoses, etc. I'll also need to track
>down rotors, but that seems
simple enough. I don't have Brad's email handy
>(I'm on a business
trip right now) otherwise I wouldn't have bothered the
>list with
this.
>
>Jeff VanOrsdal
>1991 Stealth ESX Twin
Turbo
>jeffv@1nce.com
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 20:39:04
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NOS injection effect on compression ratio and combustion chamber
volume.
Generally..when someone mentions plain CR, they mean
static.
On Tue, 23 Oct 2001, Mark Wendlandt wrote:
>
Geoff,
>
> >Compression -ratio- is a value constant to your
hardware..is the
> >difference in volume at BDC and TDC
basically.
>
> You need to mention which compression ratio you are
talking about when you
> say "compression ratio". You are refering
to "static". I agree that static
> compression ratio is
constant...hence "static" and can be measured using a
> "burette and
graduated cylinder" as the link below mentions. Dynamic
>
compression is calculated differently and is very important for power!
>
> >
> >The amount of air/fuel/etc IN the cylinder has nothing
to do wth
> >compression ration,
>
> Not true!
> The
dynamic compression ratio is what we are interested in, because just by
>
changing cams, you can change the dynamic compression ratio. i.e. longer
> duration cam will bleed off air and lower the dynamic compression
ratio.
> Forcing air/fuel into the cylinders will increase the
dynamic compression
> ratio. I think this is where is NOS question
comes in...does it increase
> the dynamic compression ratio? Not
cylinder pressure from burning
> air/fuel...but cylinder pressures prior
to ignition.
>
> Check out:
http://www.rehermorrison.com/techTalk/08b.htm>
> Mark Wendlandt
> '91RT/TT
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 20:41:54
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Lap times at Sears Point.
Actually, I was turning 1:29 -->
1.31s with a hot-lap timer I borrowed in
the 80minute open-track session
Saturday evening..this is a photo from one
of those many many laps:
http://www.headonphotos.net/Galleries/NASA-0928/881/pages/IMG_1047.htmIm
sure I improved a little Sunday AM when it was still cool out, was
playing
the overheat/cooldown strategy every other lap after about 80d
ambient
temps.
On Tue, 23 Oct 2001, Bob Forrest wrote:
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
>
----------snip------------
> > By the way, in racing, one thing you
Never Ever want to do is Brake! Only
> when you are absolutely
forced to through no other alternative! That said,
> can we go on to
something else, like who can give a good 'hot lap' of Sears
> point in a
3S car? I'm an NA, so if we have TT and NA description, that'd
> be
great.
> > Kurt
> ---------------------------->
>
> The shortened track and the lack of a super-long straight at Sears
Point
> really "levels the playing field". If a turbo gains more
than a 1/2 second
> on the straight, it's a lot... The top 3 lap
times of a Group 4 (mostly
> race-prepped cars, & advanced drivers)
HPDE were in the mid- 'minute-thirty
> range', 1:33 - 1:37 if I was
hearing right and if memory serves. In one of
> his Group 3 runs, I
think Geoff turned around 1:42 in the RX7 TT and I timed
> E.T. at 1:47 in
our Stealth NT (SOHC) in Group 2. We didn't spend much time
> in
"timing", since you "know" a good run, and it almost doesn't matter...
>
My guess is that the 3S turbos will be around 1:3? and your DOHC will be
>
hovering around the 1:40 mark. You WILL pass less-experienced 911s on
this
> track in YOUR car. I know I did in mine! :-)
>
Best,
> Forrest
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 11:07:17
+0700
From: "Jane" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject:
Team3S: DETONATION
When I boost my car run to 60 mph I always hear the
engine sound knocking
and the sound like detonation, but when the car run
under 60 mph the sound
never comes up.
I have rechecked the ignition
timing at 5 deg. BTDC, spark plugs gap,
cleaned fuel and air filter and use
high octane fuel.
In my opinion the engine knocks because the fuel
consumption injected to
combustion chamber is not enough. When it run under
60 mph, the fuel pump
can pressure the fuel into combustion chamber through
fuel injectors in full
capacity but when it boosted over 60 mph the fuel pump
pressure the fuel to
fuel injector in low capacity.
By the way the fuel
pump should be changed to new one. How about you, do you
agree with my theory
or could you advise me how to overcome engine knocking
or
detonation.
Looking forward to receiving your good response and thank you
very much for
your kindly
attention.
Regards,
Jane.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 21:28:33
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: DETONATION
I didnt hear a recent fuel filter
change...
On Wed, 24 Oct 2001, Jane wrote:
> When I boost my
car run to 60 mph I always hear the engine sound knocking
> and the sound
like detonation, but when the car run under 60 mph the sound
> never comes
up.
> I have rechecked the ignition timing at 5 deg. BTDC, spark plugs
gap,
> cleaned fuel and air filter and use high octane fuel.
> In my
opinion the engine knocks because the fuel consumption injected to
>
combustion chamber is not enough. When it run under 60 mph, the fuel
pump
> can pressure the fuel into combustion chamber through fuel
injectors in full
> capacity but when it boosted over 60 mph the fuel pump
pressure the fuel to
> fuel injector in low capacity.
> By the way
the fuel pump should be changed to new one. How about you, do you
> agree
with my theory or could you advise me how to overcome engine knocking
> or
detonation.
> Looking forward to receiving your good response and thank
you very much for
> your kindly attention.
>
>
Regards,
> Jane.
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 21:52:00
-0700
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Lap times at Sears Point.
Sears Point fans:
As you start
to plan for fast lap times at Sears Point, consider reading the
track
handbook from the Nor Cal Shelby Club--especially if you're new to
this
track.
http://norcal-saac.org/ot/otbook.htmYou'll
have to make adjustments for the shortened track configuration, of
course, (a
crossover from turn nine to turn one, I believe) but it makes for
good
reading--or as we say here in California, "visualization."
‹Jim
Elferdink
95 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 01:19:02
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Braking With Reds
Thanks Francis for the support.
DaveT
... you MUST be smoking the cheap stuff. Every instructor in the
world
will tell you that the throttle and the brake are not binary (i.e.
they are
not on and off) but they are modulated. You almost never go
full on and
full off on a road course. The exception? Panic
situations.
Even then you probably shouldn't.
I was trying to let all discussions go
by but I just can't sit here and
let this go on and see nobody
commenting. I mean it is in the archives
and some new guy is going to
think, "Excellent. I'm gonna mod my car
and go full tilt and then brake
until black marks appear, and go full
throttle again, and then full brakes
impending lock-up." That just
ain't right.
To get the tires at
the limit of adhesion as you say is to be running
"on the edge." I
never want to be on a track when that person is on
there as well. If
you are on the edge then that means you are close to
going over the
edge. If you go over the edge and the tires are losing
their adhesion
then there is little you can do but pray that will get
the car back under
control.
In fact, every class I have seen teaches you to drive at 7/10
your
potential level. F1 guys probably go at 12/10 because ... well
because
they are good. I drive at 5/10 until I learn the track, brake
zones,
etc. then boost up to 6/10. I might do 7/10 for most of the
track. I
might even touch on 8/10 for a short section of track I have
practiced
many times. I don't think I've ever gone above that and it is
never
taught in a Driver's Ed. That is different than racing but we
aren't
allowed to say that "r" word in the driver's ed courses (or
High
Performance Driving Event courses).
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
letting the turbos cool down now
- -----Original Message-----
From:
bdtrent
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2001 19:16
I have never heard
of or read any suggestion that easing into the brakes
under high perfomance
driving is a preferred technique. I hit the
brakes
hard initially
and stay on them making slight adjustments to suit.
Running
big reds at
the limit of ABS, I have never experienced any of the
twitchy
tail that
Darren keeps refering to. Common sense should tell you the
fastest lap
is taken using max braking as late as possible. As Keith
Code
writes
in A Twist of the Wrist, the goal of any racer is to drive the
track
full
on or full off. From initial braking to track out, the tires
should
be
consistently at the limit of adheasion. This is easier said than
done,
but
the goal none the
less.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 00:48:10
-0500
From: "Turbo Driven" <
turbodrvn@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rev Limiter
Hello all,
Question: Don't our cars have
a rev limiter? I have a 1992 3000GT VR4.
There is NO rev limiter
whatsoever on my car!? In the past (3 years ago), I
have flat lined to
9,000 rpm when the o-ring from my y-pipe was lodged into
my throttle
body. Is this normal for any generation of our
cars?
Ahmed.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 01:18:46
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rev Limiter
No, not normal at all... Rev limiter
engages at 7200 RPM on all 3000GT
/ Stealths. If your car does not cut
the fuel entirely at approx. 7200
RPM, then something is wrong, or you have a
modified ECM.
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Turbo Driven
Sent:
Wednesday, October 24, 2001 12:48 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Rev Limiter
Hello all,
Question: Don't our cars have
a rev limiter? I have a 1992 3000GT VR4.
There is NO rev limiter
whatsoever on my car!? In the past (3 years
ago), I
have flat lined
to 9,000 rpm when the o-ring from my y-pipe was lodged
into
my throttle
body. Is this normal for any generation of our
cars?
Ahmed.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 08:02:32
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: NOS injection
Sort of answering my own question. This
from
http://www.highpower.freeserve.co.uk/faq.htmQ11)
Does nitrous work on Diesel I Turbo engines?
A11) YES! and with much better
results for a given power increase than a
petrol engine, as a diesel does not
have an ignition system like a petrol
engine and consequently the power
output is not reduced by a poor condition
ignition system, also the timing of
the ignition sequence is not as crucial
on a diesel which not only helps the
power output, but also reliability.
With a petrol engine detonation can soon
become a limiting factor to the
power output, but as tar as I can tell this
is not the case on a diesel as
they actually run on detonation and as a
consequence are built stronger
which is another reliability bonus. The
biggest advantage of a diesel over a
petrol engine is the diesels lack of
acceleration ability, but with N20
injection this shortcoming is
disproportionately improved. Cost is another
area where a diesel has an
advantage over an equivalent petrol engine, as
the basic N20 systems for a
diesel does not need a filet control system as a
petrol engine does, which
reduces the cost of a similar diesel system by
approx £100. The only limiting
factor is how much fuel the engine wastes,
and how much extra can be
added.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 20:21:28
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rev Limiter
> Question: Don't our cars have a rev
limiter? I have a 1992 3000GT VR4.
> There is NO rev limiter
whatsoever on my car
Mine limits at 7200rpm too, however I have an ECU on
my bench at work which
I have just rebuilt, the owner tells me it limits at
7500rpm and he knows of
another which limits at 8000rpm. These are all Jap
spec ECUs as all of our
GTOs are imported used from Japan. I'm trying to find
out what the
modifications are .Our cars are cheap NZ$15 to 20K, thats under
US$8K for a
mint 93 twin turbo, but parts cost a
fortune.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 03:31:26
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Braking With Reds
>DaveT ... you MUST be smoking the cheap
stuff. Every instructor in the
>world will tell you that the
throttle and the brake are not binary (i.e.
>they are not on and off) but
they are modulated. You almost never go
>full on and full off on a
road course. The exception? Panic
>situations. Even then
you probably shouldn't.
I can think of one case: Pro rallying in an
underpowered car. In that case,
it is full power all the time, none of this
modulating stuff. You keep your
foot to the floor, and don't lift for a
corner until the navigator starts
to whimper. It was bad enuf in my
stock-engined 90 hp Datsun 510, but
conventional wisdom (back in the 1970s)
was to start rallying in a
3-cylinder Saab or a VW Beetle beater, because
neither car had enough power
to get out of its own way, and if you EVER
lifted, it would take eight days
to build your speed back up. By
learning to drive in such a slug, the
theory went, you learned about keeping
up your momentum, never braking or
slowing, maintaining control while on the
hairy edge, pushing the car to
the absolute limit and beyond, and so on.
Finally, when you wrapped the
slug around a tree, you had found the limit of
the envelope, and were ready
for some horsepower.
I wonder if that
lesson might apply to open tracking; i.e., instead of
starting with one of
our road rockets, start in a 4 cyl Talon or Eclipse
beater, and learn how
important the correct line is, how to minimize
braking, keeping momentum,
etc.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 04:13:51
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Braking With Reds
Hi all,
You are right on with this one
Rich.
Wish I could have understood what the instructors
meant when
they said 'Park the Stealth and get a
Rabit'. Learn to drive in an
underpowered car to
master cornering. Races are won in corners.
It's
easy to go fast straight--just need more HP.
Be of good
cheer,
John
- --- Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
wrote:
> >DaveT ... you MUST be smoking the cheap stuff.
> Every
instructor in the
> >world will tell you that the throttle and the
brake
> are not binary (i.e.
> >they are not on and off) but they
are modulated.
> You almost never go
> >full on and full off on
a road course. The
> exception? Panic
>
>situations. Even then you probably shouldn't.
>
> I can
think of one case: Pro rallying in an
> underpowered car. In that
case,
> it is full power all the time, none of this
> modulating
stuff. You keep your
> foot to the floor, and don't lift for a corner
until
>
> I wonder if that lesson might apply to open
>
tracking; i.e., instead of
> starting with one of our road rockets, start
in a 4
> cyl Talon or Eclipse
> beater, and learn how important the
correct line is,
> how to minimize
> braking, keeping momentum, etc.
>
> Rich
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 08:04:02
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rev Limiter
Mine cuts out at 7400rpm. I drag race, so I
know this for sure!
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve
Cooper <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
>>
Question: Don't our cars have a rev limiter? I have a 1992 3000GT
VR4.
>> There is NO rev limiter whatsoever on my
car
>
>Mine limits at 7200rpm too, however I have an ECU on my bench
at work which
>I have just rebuilt, the owner tells me it limits at
7500rpm and he knows
of
>another which limits at 8000rpm. These are all
Jap spec ECUs as all of our
>GTOs are imported used from Japan. I'm trying
to find out what the
>modifications are .Our cars are cheap NZ$15 to 20K,
thats under US$8K for a
>mint 93 twin turbo, but parts cost a
fortune.
>
>
>Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 07:57:51
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k workshop -a bit OT
Great work! Spectacular
techniocal gathering (and beer tasting)!
Has this car always been
operated/garaged in the pristine Pacific Northwest?
I wonder how long the
rubber would last in the hot, polluted city of Houston
(or LA for that
matter)? Hope your pix show the timing belt turned inside
out - that's where
any deterioration is most evident.
Don't feel sucked in - you now have
the confidence to know the car is good
to go for 60,000 more
miles!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darc
[SMTP:wce@telus.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2001 6:25 PM
> To:
Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: 60k workshop -a bit OT
>
>
Perhaps
> they can confirm or alternately, give their opinion
on the need to do or
> not do the 60k before it is required (low
mileage, but high years).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 08:03:38
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Braking Techniques: Upgraded Front Brakes, But Not R
ears
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik
[SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2001 7:00
PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail); 3sracers List (E-mail)
> Subject:
Team3S: Braking Techniques: Upgraded Front Brakes, But Not
>
Rears
>
> I wonder if I was even
> using my rear
brakes at the track?
>
> Yes, most weight is transferred to the
front when braking, but there is
> still work being done in the
back. There is also a smaller contact patch
> for grip in the back
during braking.
>
> If you have a pads with less friction on the
back, the fronts wind up
> doing even more work, and the rears wear even
less. I prefer to use the
> same pad compound in front and
rear. Up until lately, I had been getting
> equal wear front and
back. I really need to measure some brake
> temperatures at the
track, front and rear.
>
> So I'm thinking I should get better rear
pads next time as well. I'll
> have
> R4 pads on the front,
but I'm wondering about the rears. I guess the
> rears
> won't
see the temperatures the fronts will, so would R4S pads be a better
>
option? Do the rears stay warm enough on the track to make R4 pads
>
useful?
>
> Thoughts?
> --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 08:14:00
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DETONATION
sure you did - it said "cleaned the fuel
flter".
Checked the spark plug gap - but what was the gap?
Also how
many psi boost is the car running?
How many octane in the high octane
gas?
Chuck Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October
23, 2001 11:29 PM
> To: Jane
> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: DETONATION
>
> I didnt hear a recent fuel
filter change...
>
> On Wed, 24 Oct 2001, Jane wrote:
>
> > When I boost my car run to 60 mph I always hear the engine
sound
> knocking
> > and the sound like detonation, but when the
car run under 60 mph the
> sound
> > never comes up.
> >
I have rechecked the ignition timing at 5 deg. BTDC, spark plugs gap,
>
> cleaned fuel and air filter and use high octane fuel.
> > In my
opinion the engine knocks because the fuel consumption injected to
> >
combustion chamber is not enough. When it run under 60 mph, the fuel
>
pump
> > can pressure the fuel into combustion chamber through fuel
injectors in
> full
> > capacity but when it boosted over 60 mph
the fuel pump pressure the fuel
> to
> > fuel injector in low
capacity.
> > By the way the fuel pump should be changed to new one.
How about you, do
> you
> > agree with my theory or could you
advise me how to overcome engine
> knocking
> > or
detonation.
> > Looking forward to receiving your good response and
thank you very much
> for
> > your kindly attention.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Jane.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 08:17:29
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rev Limiter
My rev limiter in my 2nd gen VR4 kicks in about
7500 rpms. I don't recall
ever bouncing the rev limiter when I was
driving my 1st gen VR4 on the
track, but never over-reved
either.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Turbo Driven [SMTP:turbodrvn@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24,
2001 12:48 AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Rev Limiter
>
> Hello all,
>
>
Question: Don't our cars have a rev limiter? I have a 1992 3000GT
VR4.
> There is NO rev limiter whatsoever on my car!? In the
past (3 years ago),
> I
> have flat lined to 9,000 rpm when the
o-ring from my y-pipe was lodged
> into
> my throttle body.
Is this normal for any generation of our cars?
>
>
Ahmed.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 08:23:42
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Braking With Reds
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: John Christian [SMTP:jczoom_619@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Wednesday,
October 24, 2001 6:14 AM
> To: Merritt;
dschilberg@pobox.com; 'Team 3S'
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Braking With Reds
>
> Hi all,
>
>
You are right on with this one Rich.
>
> Wish I could have
understood what the instructors
> meant when they said 'Park the Stealth
and get a
> Rabbit'.
>
> HA,HA!
[Willis, Charles
E.]
I had a novice student last weekend with a Corvette C5 with
street
tires! You could just drive it right off the track! He
pinched the last
turn exiting on to the main straight because he was wary of
the wall up at
the top of the huge banking, applied a little throttle while
holding
steering and got the rear end loose! I nearly soiled
myself!
Learning to drive on the track with a high horsepower car is
a
challenge.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 07:53:21
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DETONATION
Cleaned it?
On Wed, 24 Oct 2001, Willis,
Charles E. wrote:
> sure you did - it said "cleaned the fuel
flter".
>
> Checked the spark plug gap - but what was the
gap?
> Also how many psi boost is the car running?
> How many octane
in the high octane gas?
>
> Chuck Willis
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 07:58:53
-0700
From: "Ann Koch" <
akoch@sonic.net>
Subject: Team3S: Timing
belt
I'm not particularly proud to admit it, but I got 140K miles on
an
original timing belt before it was changed.
Ann Koch
'93 blue
stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 09:20:57
-0700
From: Rich <
rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 60k Workshop - On Topic
Charles:
I'll let Darcy elaborate
on how the car is cared for, but
IMHO, it's been pampered more than
most. Darcy is the
original owner and lives on the southern tip of
Vancouver
Island where the car gets a fair amount of salt air from
the
straits and the Pacific ocean. The car is kept
~clean~, but we noted
the odd bit of salt corrosion here &
there - in the nooks and crannies
primarily. Pristine?
It isn't called the Pacific Northwet for
nothing. ;-)
Eric took pictures ad infinitum, with particular
attention
to the T-belt, and I'm sure he will post the URL where he
puts
them up for all to see. As for deterioration being
most evident on the
inner (toothed) edge, remember that the
belt serpentines a number of times
each rotation - for each
concave bend, a corresponding convex bend
occurs. We noted
*NO* cracking/checking or deterioration of the belt on
any
edge or side, and if I were pressed to say which side
showed *any*
sign of use *at all*, it would be the outer
(smooth) side - it was that
textbook perfect. I hope to get
the time later today to compare
Darcy's T-belt with ~25k on
it to my T-belt I changed at ~67k and take pics
to post to
the list (yes, I saved mine - not sure why anymore).
After
doing 3 of these now, (2 2G and 1 1G), I'm developing
the opinion that the
60k service ~might~ be more important as
an opportunity to replace the water
pump and the tensioner
than the belt itself. Both Darcy's and my WP
showed signs of
going south, (tiny amount of weeping coolant pooled in a
recess & gasket deterioration), and the tensioner is such a
critical
component that failure would be catastrophic.
<shrug> Just
an evolving idea, with more empirical data
required. Input from anyone
else who has done their or
others' 60k is invited.
Rich
-
--------------------------------------------------------
"Willis, Charles E."
wrote:
>
> Great work! Spectacular techniocal gathering (and
beer tasting)!
>
> Has this car always been operated/garaged in the
pristine Pacific Northwest?
> I wonder how long the rubber would last in
the hot, polluted city of Houston
> (or LA for that matter)? Hope your pix
show the timing belt turned inside
> out - that's where any deterioration
is most evident.
>
> Don't feel sucked in - you now have the
confidence to know the car is good
> to go for 60,000 more miles!
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Darc
[SMTP:wce@telus.net]
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2001 6:25
PM
> > To: Team3S
> >
Subject: Team3S: 60k workshop -a bit OT
>
>
> > Perhaps
> > they can confirm or
alternately, give their opinion on the need to do or
> > not do
the 60k before it is required (low mileage, but high years).
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 09:45:10
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Braking With Reds
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Darren
Schilberg <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>
Thanks Francis for the support.
>
> DaveT ... you MUST be smoking
the cheap stuff. Every instructor in the
> world will tell you that
the throttle and the brake are not binary (i.e.
> they are not on and off)
but they are modulated.
I mean it is in the archives
> and
some new guy is going to think, "Excellent. I'm gonna mod my car
>
and go full tilt and then brake until black marks appear, and go full
>
throttle again, and then full brakes impending lock-up." That just
>
ain't right.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I haven't
followed the whole thread but for some reason everybody is
ignoring the fact
that we have --- ABS --- on the car and in most cases
it is operational. All
of the write ups in the book are talking about
threshold braking --- with
ABS you don't /can't threshold brake. With
ABS you are not in charge of
locking up the
wheels.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> To get
the tires at the limit of adhesion as you say is to be running
> "on the
edge." I never want to be on a track when that person is on
> there
as well. If you are on the edge then that means you are close to
>
going over the edge. If you go over the edge and the tires are
losing
> their adhesion then there is little you can do but pray that will
get
> the car back under
control.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The whole
object of high speed driving is to get as close to the edge as
you think
you're able --- if I wanted to drive at 70% I'd do it on a side road
somewhere.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
I drive at 5/10 until I learn the track, brake zones,
> etc. then boost up
to 6/10. I might do 7/10 for most of the track. I
> might even
touch on 8/10 for a short section of track I have practiced
> many
times
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I think you
should boost each of those 1/10's by a number or two --- I
drive at about
7/10 after the first couple of laps and then move it up to
the 8's or 9's.
The 8/10th is with respect to the driver not the car by the
way ---- as I
said before I'm sure Michael Schumacher could punch it
up a bit. For me 70%
is for spirited mountain roads with
traffic.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 10:10:22
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Braking With Reds
>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> I haven't followed the
whole thread but for some reason everybody is
> ignoring the fact that we
have --- ABS --- on the car and in most cases
> it is operational. All of
the write ups in the book are talking about
> threshold braking --- with
ABS you don't /can't threshold brake. With
> ABS you are not in charge of
locking up the wheels.
>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- ---
I agree, but a good
driver still knows instinctively where that limit is,
and rarely actually
uses ABS. Again, a skill you learn in underpowered
cars with less
technology.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 11:59:53
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: tire wear on track DE's
What is everyone's experience with useful
life of tires?
We got much longer life on our first two sets of tires
(twice as many
events) than my third set (now being replaced by my fourth
set). Of course
my lap times are improving, but I am wondering about
what everyone else
expects from tires in terms of life.
Chuck
Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 10:35:15
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: tire wear on track DE's
Depends on the
track.
Thunderhill eats my front right tire alive, and sears point can be
active
on your left front quite a bit.
We go probly 8-10 full 2-driver
days on a set of tires at least in our
cars.
On Wed, 24 Oct 2001,
Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> What is everyone's experience with useful
life of tires?
>
> We got much longer life on our first two sets of
tires (twice as many
> events) than my third set (now being replaced by my
fourth set). Of course
> my lap times are improving, but I am
wondering about what everyone else
> expects from tires in terms of
life.
>
> Chuck Willis
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 13:25:17
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: tire wear on track DE's
I got between 9 and 12 full 2 day
DE's on the first two sets of tires. They
were Yokohama A032R
245R45Z17. The third set were 255R40Z17. So far I have
lost one
after 3 events (completely melted/corded in the center at Heartland
Park),
one after five (chunked in the middle), and another after 6 events (5
mm wide
linear melted/corded area in the center). The fourth one will
probably
make another (7). I'm just wondering if I got a bad set of tires.
I am
using the same cold pressures 40 psi front and 38 psi rear, expect
last
weekend when I reduced the fronts to 38 psi cold. Also, each of
the three
new ones have corded in the center, but no unusual wear on the
shoulders to
indicate overinflation, and the first two sets wore the tread
down evenly
until I had slicks and were retired before cooking/cording
(except one of
eight, corded on the right rear). All three of the new
ones that went south
were on the right front wheel - all tracks we're running
are
counterclockwise.
Is this just the cost of doing business, or am I
doing something stupid
again?
Chuck
P.S. There is no
alignment problem. The tire wear and flaws are very
symmetric and
centered.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October
24, 2001 12:35 PM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc: 'Team 3S'
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: tire wear on track DE's
>
> Depends on the
track.
>
> Thunderhill eats my front right tire alive, and sears
point can be active
> on your left front quite a bit.
>
> We
go probly 8-10 full 2-driver days on a set of tires at least in our
>
cars.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 11:36:31
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k
workshop
Rich seems to have covered the tech gauntlet more than
adequately in his
response, so posting more on the 60K is almost a moot
point. His notation on
the water pump is a very important point, however, and
it is likely the only
reason one should change before the mileage
increment...so checking for
antifreeze drips periodically, should be added to
good housekeeping. If
you get antifreeze dripping, time to
change...pronto! Mine was not dripping,
but evidence that a tiny leak was
being boiled in one of the engine hollows,
was evident. Only tearing down for
the 60 k revealed it.
Erik should have a wealth of pictures of the event
up soon somewhere, having
blinded the main mechanic on numerous occasions
with his flash. And Adam
unfortunately was not in attendance as I
first reported, unless Dave
(Margrave) who I did not report, was masquerading
as him. My apologies
openly for this foopaw.
IMHO, if you're in the
PCW, and anticipate doing this 60k, contact Rich, as
he has the right
tools, even a wrong right tool, and is veeeery reasonable,
or unreasonable,
depending on how you look at it ;-)) If you can get Dave to
show up as Adam,
Erik as himself and Glenn as himself, you should have a
wealth of expertise
on hand.
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 12:10:40
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
'91 Steath TT died at a stop sign - will not start
{Jim is a new member
who I just signed up - I'm posting this for him to get
it on the list
ASAP}
- -----------------------
I have a '91 Stealth TT that died on
me at a stop sign and will not start.
The battery is hot and it has plenty of
fuel in the tank. It appears to
have quit firing. Does anyone
have any ideas what could be wrong? I
checked to see if it is firing at
the plugs, and it is not. Does it have
some type of shut off if the
fuel pump has gone out and does not pressure
up? Maybe an ignition
module or the coil has gone out? Any help would be
greatly appreciated.
What is the best way to check for fuel or
electrical
prob?
Thanks,
Jim Dewbre
Meadow, Texas
'91 Stealth
R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 14:19:56
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: '91 Steath TT died at a stop sign - will not start
There are
a few fusible links under the hood near the air filter in the
black
box. Check those to make sure none are blown. Also check the
fuses
under the dash near where your left foot usually rests. Those are
the easy
things to check, anyway...
After that there's a slew of
things to check in the service manual, that we
can dig out if the easy stuff
doesn't pan out.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 15:44:30
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lap times at Sears Point.
Yes, this is the general corner by
corner description I had seen.
I was wondering if anyone had any specifics
to our cars, this same kind of writeup but tailored for TT or NA. I'll
have to do one afterwards, assuming I don't make a fool of myself the first time
out there.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim
Elferdink [mailto:macintosh@sunra.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2001 9:52
PM
To: 'Team3S'
Subject: Re: Team3S: Lap times at Sears
Point.
Sears Point fans:
As you start to plan for fast lap times
at Sears Point, consider reading the
track handbook from the Nor Cal Shelby
Club--especially if you're new to
this track.
http://norcal-saac.org/ot/otbook.htmYou'll
have to make adjustments for the shortened track configuration, of
course, (a
crossover from turn nine to turn one, I believe) but it makes for
good
reading--or as we say here in California, "visualization."
<Jim
Elferdink
95 VR-4
*** Info:
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 14:50:26
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: tire wear on track DE's
At 11:59 AM 10/24/01 -0500, Willis,
Charles E. wrote:
>What is everyone's experience with useful life of
tires?
With Yoko 032s, I could get at least four complete weekend events
out of a
set, maybe more. . I complicate my tire life by running at our
local
go-kart track, where I reel off 50-90 laps (30-60 miles) per day,
thus
screwing up the count of open track days..
I also replaced my
Yokos when the tread went away, but there was actually
a lot more life
left. Ideally, you shouldn't replace them until the cord
starts to show (and
they get squirelly on track), but with Kuhmos and Yokos
- -- which have no
wear indicators -- you really don't know how much is left
until the cord
shows. That can be a bummer if the cord shows on the first
run on Saturday,
and you gotta switch to a street tire. Therefore, I buy
new tires sometimes
before I need to.
Another big problem I have is premature wear on the
right front. I corded a
Kuhmo after a single weekend at Heartland Park.
Camber plates and -3 deg
camber have helped a lot, but I've learned to swap
tires trackside during a
weekend. I start out with the best possible rubber
on the fronts, then swap
them side to side on Saturday afternoon, then front
to rear on Sunday
morning, and again side to side on Sunday afternoon, if
they last that long.
I am unhappy with the wear I got from Kuhmos, and
running with you guys at
Heartland Park showed that your Yokos were the equal
of my allegedly better
Kuhmos (see, you learn a LOT running with other
3K GTs), so I'll be
ordering another set of Yokos for next season.
>
Rich>
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 16:36:31
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 60k workshop
> Erik should have a wealth of pictures of the
event up soon
> somewhere, having blinded the main mechanic on
numerous
> occasions with his flash.
Yep, Team3s.com is once
again reachable from my domain, so the pages are
complete now.
Hopefully, Rich is no longer seeing white spots in front of
him :-)
No
captions yet, but the pictures are there... Here's the direct
URL:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/60Kpictures/preview_page1.html(As
always, that needs to be one line if you want to click/paste
it)
Enjoy,
- --Erik
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 16:59:30
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Compression Ratio
Jeez guys,
There are to many lawyers on
this group. Lets simplify. Its was originally
refered to as
compression RATIO. This is a ratio of volumes having nothing
to do with
volumetric efficiency or any other hyverfluvic
conglomeration.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Cc:
<
Jim_Floyd@Maxtor.com>; <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 23, 2001 10:39 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: NOS injection effect
on compression ratio and
combustion chamber volume.
>
Generally..when someone mentions plain CR, they mean static.
***
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 17:25:55
-0700
From: "Robert Koch" <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FOR SALE---Spark plug cover plates
I seem to have forgotten my
roots.....I must appologize.
I was thinking to myself "self, why do I have no
orders from Team3s ?"
maybe because I never let you guys know I was mass
producing these......
I used to have 6 styles and now only have 5....no more
GTO's
I have pics on the 3SI.org board...look for "ek2mfg" and you will see
my
thread...the pics are on the first two posts.....the price is
50
shipped......I Know,I know kevin made them for 45 shipped.......here is
the
diff...mine are pocketed out on the back side to both lighten and
eliminate
the pinch on those wires........unpolished unpainted...with
stainless
bolts....feel free to cruise the feed back I have....I must toot
my
horn....beep beep beep........
let me know....I will be unloading
the few I have left on ebay this
weekend......no custom work....it never pans
out...sorry
bob K.
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Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 20:42:31
-0400
From: GREG RUSH <
rush@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
DETONATION
Can you rule out detonation by putting some race fuel in the
car?
Geoff Mohler wrote:
> Cleaned it?
>
> On Wed,
24 Oct 2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>
> > sure you did - it
said "cleaned the fuel flter".
> >
> > Checked the spark plug
gap - but what was the gap?
> > Also how many psi boost is the car
running?
> > How many octane in the high octane gas?
>
>
> > Chuck Willis
> >
> > > -----Original
Message-----
> > > From: Geoff
Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > >
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2001 11:29
PM
> > > To: Jane
> > > Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
> Subject: Re: Team3S: DETONATION
> > >
>
> > I didnt hear a recent fuel filter change...
> > >
>
> > On Wed, 24 Oct 2001, Jane wrote:
> > >
> > >
> When I boost my car run to 60 mph I always hear the engine sound
>
> > knocking
> > > > and the sound like detonation, but
when the car run under 60 mph the
> > > sound
> > > >
never comes up.
> > > > I have rechecked the ignition timing at 5
deg. BTDC, spark plugs gap,
> > > > cleaned fuel and air filter
and use high octane fuel.
> > > > In my opinion the engine knocks
because the fuel consumption injected to
> > > > combustion
chamber is not enough. When it run under 60 mph, the fuel
> > >
pump
> > > > can pressure the fuel into combustion chamber
through fuel injectors in
> > > full
> > > > capacity
but when it boosted over 60 mph the fuel pump pressure the fuel
> >
> to
> > > > fuel injector in low capacity.
> > >
> By the way the fuel pump should be changed to new one. How about you,
do
> > > you
> > > > agree with my theory or could
you advise me how to overcome engine
> > > knocking
> >
> > or detonation.
> > > > Looking forward to receiving
your good response and thank you very much
> > > for
> >
> > your kindly attention.
> > > >
> > > >
Regards,
> > > > Jane.
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#655
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