Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, October 17 2001
Volume 01 : Number
648
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Oct 2001 19:52:11 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Major Engine Troubles
'OK, here it goes.
Did the 60K
service. Bought new ECU.
Car will not idle now, but it will
rev all the way to redline and sounds
healthy doing it.
I
checked - no error codes in the ECU.
It sounds like it is
backfiring through the intake, but I can't be for
sure.
I double
and triple checked the valve timing and the crank pulley too.
Everything
lines up perfectly.
Basically, it runs fine at high RPM, but at low
RPM, sometimes it won't
even accelerate the engine (no load), and just dies,
but most of the
time, you press the gas, and it accelerates
healthily.
Any ideas?
- -Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 14:17:01
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re Short notice for 60K- Vancouver(PDX) Area
Anyone in the I-5
corridor in WA who wants to caravan down there, let me
know (not on the
Team3S list!) I'm planning to go.
Oh yeah.... technical content for
Team3S:
stock '94 VR-4 17" wheels weigh 24lbs each
:)
- --Erik
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rich
[mailto:rleroy@pacifier.com]
> Subject: Team3S: OT: Short Notice For 60k
Clinic - Vancouver
> (PDX) Area
>
> I am doing a 60k for
another list member this weekend (10/20) if
> anyone is interested in
watching/learning. We were going to give
> more notice to the group,
but SNAFU's in coordinating parts only
> let us get firm on the date
earlier today.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 16:52:10
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Opinion about NA exhausts - Comments?...
Note: As I mentioned in
another post, Drew Henson and GF Jamie are the 2
current 'fastest' NA owners
- times they made with only a K&N - no NOS,
gutted cat and no
muffler. They don't have a computer and are not list
members, but he
and I were discussing aftermarket exhausts. He expects he
can break
14sec with a custom exhaust and drag radials. What he says makes
a
whole lot of sense, IMO... Especially since he's among the few owners
who
I've ever spoken to who knows the proper (mid-RPM) way to launch on
street
tires. I pointed out to him that what we *know*(?) from the list
is that
our exhausts require a certain tuned backpressure for good
low-end
acceleration. Here are his recent comments for
discussion...>>>
- -------------------------
DH: About
the n/a needing backpressure... unless someone shows me dyno
sheets proving
this fact, I'll continue to disagree. Even low tech,
inefficient small
block chevy engines run better through open headers than a
full exhaust, and
that rule certainly applies to our cars with more
effecient exhaust valves,
high lift/high duration cams, and a high-peaking
powerband. Our cars'
HP peak is at 6K rpm, and the torque peak is at 4500.
If you launch at 3K on
street tires, the car is only in the lower rpms for a
second, and the rest of
the way down the track you never drop out of the
upper rpms. Our car
ran a 14.946 all stock, and ran a 14.710 with a K&N and
the factory
muffler removed/cat gutted. The car also chirps 3rd gear since
removing
the muffler, and our trap speeds jumped from 90 to 94.
I'm not wasting
money on an aftermarket exhaust. I'd rather fabricate my
own, and know
exactly what diameter pipe, bend quality, and muffler
placement I have under
the car. Muffler placement is key on a n/a engine.
You install an
unrestricted straight pipe, paint it with cheap paint, and
run the car for a
few minutes. Wherever the paint stops burning off is
where you install
the muffler. If the paint burns off
all the way back, you need a larger
pipe, and if it stops burning off too
close to the engine, you can use a
smaller diameter. The idea is to allow
the exhaust to take its natural
course at full velocity, then when
the velocity slows, install the
muffler.
- ---------------------
Your comments,
please...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:28:43
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Redlined Engine & Knocking/Ticking Sound?
If the knock
seems like it is coming from deep inside the motor, then it is
probably a rod
knock. A bolt probably broke or stretched or rod cap
stretched
making the big end of the connecting rod larger, thus the knock
sound.
I
don't see how a main bearing could make a knocking noise. The
main
bearings are what the crack rides in, in the block. They are similar to
cam
bearings.
If it is just a rod knock then you are not too bad
off. You still need to
take the engine apart, but you may not need to
rebuild the whole thing.
Just replace the rod and maybe have the crank
ground. If you don't have a
lot of miles on the engine and are thrifty
don't waste the bucks on going
through the whole thing.
Price up
having the crank ground ,new rod bearings and a new connecting rod.
vs. Block
hot tanked, crank ground, new rings, all connecting rods rebuilt,
oil pump,
heads done........etc....... You'll see how fast the money will
be
going out of your pockets.
If you plan on racing and were going to do a
major rebuild anyway then I
would go through the whole thing and do it right,
but if this is a daily
driver I wouldn't waste the money
One thing is
for sure, if you drive it, you run the risk of throwing a rod
or something
else that will probably double the cost of a normal rebuild
because you will
be buying a new block or cylinder head.
Good luck,
Rich
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 16, 2001 7:55 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Redlined Engine &
Knocking/Ticking Sound?
> Shit.... this sounds like my
problem....
> It's heavier than the lifter tick and much louder.
>
Anyway to fix it before it gets worse? Or is it as bad as it
gets?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:39:32
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Redlined Engine & Knocking/Ticking Sound?
I just thought
of something else...
Are the engines prone to broken rings?
I had
a L4 mustang that broke the top ring and make a knocking noise because
the
piston was rocking around.
If that is the case, your looking at some
costs for hone and possible bore
of that cylinder, new piston,
rings...etc.
Rich
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard
Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
To:
"Team3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 16, 2001 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Redlined Engine
& Knocking/Ticking Sound?
> If the knock seems like it is
coming from deep inside the motor, then it
is
> probably a rod
knock.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:54:16
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Major Engine Troubles
Well, one thing I did try was disabling
pairs of cylinders at a time, to
no avail.
Does any one have a easy to
read diagram of where plug wires go?
I did my best to decipher the crappy
picture in the service manual...
I have it right now: top pair of
wires goes to the drivers side spark
plugs, middle pair of wires goes to the
center plugs, and the bottom
pair of wires goes to the passenger side
plugs...
Someone please confirm...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From: DENNIS HACKNEY [mailto:dennis_hackney@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 1:23 AM
To:
stealth@stls.verio.netSubject: RE:
Major Engine Troubles
Stupid question for Cody, but did you mess
with the plug wires? If
your
wires are in the correct positions then it
is possible that your crank
trigger, cam trigger, or both ignition pick-ups
could be bad. If it's
pre 93
or 94.. I think it only has a crank trigger.
If that one pick up coil
goes
bad, then bye bye ignition timming, hello
irradic spark:)
Also, if the mass air sensor goes bad the car will
not idle in most
cases.
Dennis
>From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
>Reply-To:
stealth@starnet.net>To: <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
>Subject:
RE: Major Engine Troubles
>Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:09:39
-0500
>
>I thought the same. But no error codes, nor will it
even come close to
>running off idle correctly, except at high
RPM.
>
>Anyone know the exact place in the manual to check ignition
timing???
>
>-Cody
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: Paul @ Diablo Enterprises
[mailto:3S@DiabloEnterprises.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 8:02
PM
>To:
stealth@stls.verio.net>Subject:
Re: Major Engine Troubles
>
>Sounds like ignition timing and
possibly an ISC motor. Any thoughts?
>Paul Butkiewicz
>Diablo
Enterprises
>Norwood, MA
02062-4012
>http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/
>http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: cody <
mailto:overclck@starband.net>
>To:
'Team3S' <
mailto:team3s@mail.speedtoys.com>
; Starnet
><
mailto:stealth@stls.verio.net>
>Sent:
Tuesday, October 16, 2001 8:52 PM
>Subject: Major Engine
Troubles
>
>'OK, here it goes.
>
>Did the 60K
service. Bought new ECU.
>
>Car will not idle now, but it will
rev all the way to redline and
sounds
>healthy doing
it.
>
>I checked - no error codes in the ECU.
>
>It
sounds like it is backfiring through the intake, but I can't be
for
>sure.
>
>I double and triple checked the valve timing and
the crank pulley too.
>Everything lines up
perfectly.
>
>Basically, it runs fine at high RPM, but at low RPM,
sometimes it won't
>even accelerate the engine (no load), and just dies,
but most of the
>time, you press the gas, and it accelerates
healthily.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>-Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 21:21:22
-0500
From:
daedel@mac.comSubject:
Re: Team3S:(off topic) Insurance
Man... talk about laying into a guy. I
was just kinda curious and my
prospects look better than what I thought they
might be previously. I'm
going to call my insurance company in the morning
to see. Thanks to all
of you who sent in your rates.
- -D
On
Monday, October 15, 2001, at 08:16 PM, Jannusch, Matt wrote:
>
Unfortunately its kinda silly to ask people on the internet what they
>
pay
> for insurance. The only thing that matters is what price can
YOU get
> insurance for... If someone says they are paying $50 a
month, does that
> mean you should expect to get that deal? They
might live in the middle
> of
> nowhere, drive 15 miles a year,
have incredibly high deductibles, own
> two
> houses, be 90 years
old and married with fifteen kids and a dog.
>
> It just doesn't
matter what others pay - its what the companies want to
> charge YOU that
matters. Even folks in the same city can pay vastly
> different
rates depending on exactly where in that city they live or
>
their
> particular situation.
>
> My only advice is to call
every insurance company you can find and
> compromise on one that'll give
good service (actually being willing to
> PAY
> for legitimate
claims if you ever have to make one) and a balance with
>
cost.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 16 Oct 2001 19:25:17
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
[none]
Quote from reasons to hot rod a NA:
6) The AWD would
be nice for autocrossing but my wife would shoot me if I took off for a weekend
and spent $300+ without her
The tire rack in Southbend Indiana provides
the property for autocrossing. I only paid $17 for last event. If I
was a SCCA member I would have saved $3.
The next autocross in on October
28th. It is an Australian pursuit. 2 cars start on opposite ends of
the track and the first car to complete 3 laps (or get too close to car in front
wins). If 3 more 3000gt/stealths show up we can get our own
class.
Southbend is only 2 hours from edge of Chicago and ony a little
more from Indianapolis and Detroit.
I would love to see a few more
cars there even if you don't run. See post on 3si.
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=19d6440fe5eb92b853b18485a2a8d29a&threadid=48520John
Monnin
1991 VR-4
4-bolt main conversion
BPU
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 16 Oct 2001 19:25:17
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
[none]
Quote from reasons to hot rod a NA:
6) The AWD would
be nice for autocrossing but my wife would shoot me if I took off for a weekend
and spent $300+ without her
The tire rack in Southbend Indiana provides
the property for autocrossing. I only paid $17 for last event. If I
was a SCCA member I would have saved $3.
The next autocross in on October
28th. It is an Australian pursuit. 2 cars start on opposite ends of
the track and the first car to complete 3 laps (or get too close to car in front
wins). If 3 more 3000gt/stealths show up we can get our own
class.
Southbend is only 2 hours from edge of Chicago and ony a little
more from Indianapolis and Detroit.
I would love to see a few more
cars there even if you don't run. See post on 3si.
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=19d6440fe5eb92b853b18485a2a8d29a&threadid=48520John
Monnin
1991 VR-4
4-bolt main conversion
BPU
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 21:33:16
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Redlined Engine & Knocking/Ticking Sound?
> Are
the engines prone to broken rings?
At least broken ring lands under
detonation - yes. I don't think overrev
alone would break rings though
- they seem to be pretty strong.
> If that is the case, your looking
at some costs
> for hone and possible bore of that cylinder,
> new
piston, rings...etc.
My engine ate three pistons' ring lands and a
portion of one compression
ring and no knocking sound. There were
"clicking" sounds of the ring lands
and ring pieces knocking divots into the
head and the like though.
Surprisingly enough, the bores were nearly
perfect even after all of that.
Probably could've gotten away with just
honing the cylinders and replacing
with stock pistons/rings - but I made the
"mistake" of trying to "do it
right" to the tune of about $5000 so far (and
counting).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 21:40:31
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S:(off topic) Insurance
> Man... talk about laying into a
guy. I was just kinda
> curious and my prospects look better than what I
thought
> they might be previously.
Sorry for laying into
you... I thought this was the Tech list. My mistake.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 22:23:13
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Re: Redlined Engine & Knocking/Ticking Sound?
At least you'll
have one heck of an engine. :-)
Rich
(snip)
- - but I made
the "mistake" of trying to "do it
> right" to the tune of about $5000 so
far (and counting).
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 22:51:11
-0500
From: "Kyle" <
celica@speed-racer.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Active Aero Light
I have an SL, and my active aero light comes
on, typically when i'm either
breaking or accererating hard. the wierd thing
is, i dont have an active
aero system. is my car wired for active aero, and
the wiring went bad? any
help on this ~mysterious~ :-) problem?
thanks,
Kyle Call
93 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 23:12:36
-0500
From: "Nemisis" <
nemisis@vci.net>
Subject: Team3S: Blitz
BOV Questions
Hello Again!
Sorry to be asking so many questions
but I just received my used Blitz BOV
kit in the mail. Ive got it hooked up
venting to the atmosphere but its not
even louder than stock. (and yes I
plugged the intake) .. How on earth do
you adjust the volume on the
blitz?
Thanks,
Jon
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 21:13:42
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blitz BOV Questions
Get bigger turbos so it has more air to
expel :)
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales
Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Nemisis
Sent: Tuesday,
October 16, 2001 9:13 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Blitz BOV
Questions
Hello Again!
Sorry to be asking so many questions but I
just received my used Blitz
BOV kit in the mail. Ive got it hooked up venting
to the atmosphere but
its not even louder than stock. (and yes I plugged the
intake) .. How on
earth do you adjust the volume on the
blitz?
Thanks,
Jon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 23:04:42
-0700
From: "john stewart" <
john.stewart@bigfoot.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: Insurance Rates
I went through the insurance shopping drill
when I got my Stealth. Being a
basically efficient (OK, lazy) kind of guy, I
created a Word file on my PC
with all of the information I expected the
insurance guys to ask for: VIN,
year, model, desired coverage, recent
tickets. Then I went through the
Yellow Pages and got the FAX numbers for the
insurance agents. FAX'ed 'em
all through the computer with my Word file &
didn't have to repeat all of
the details to 30 different agents. Got a rate I
could live with.
Aren't computers wonderful?
\John Stewart
'92
Blue Twin-Turbo
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 06:18:08
-0600
From: "Vic O'Kane" <
fiendishhq@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Why does my car do this?
<html><div
style='background-color:'><DIV>Help,</DIV>
<DIV>
My '94 SL will periodically, when I'm coasting to a light, start revving from
about 1,700 to 2,000 rpms at first kinda slowly kinda like the car is almost
snorting then the revs will get faster and closer together until
sometimes it will start to rev all the way to 2,500rpms when I'm idling in
neutral - but its only some days that this happens, and doesn't seem to have
anything to do with how I've been driving that day - Its frustrating, and those
of my friends that have anything useful to say about engine problems have no
idea what its about - any ideas?</DIV></div><br
clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a
href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag_itl_EN.asp'>http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></html>
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:31:54
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stillen Downpipe Report
Grind out the middle (rear pre-cat)
connection holes about 1/8" more and it
will fit like a glove. I bought
my pipe 2 years ago, and they still havn't
changed anything --great pipe
nonetheless.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com <
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, October 17, 2001 12:08 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stillen Downpipe
Report
>In a message dated 10/16/01 7:59:38 PM Eastern Daylight
Time,
>KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com writes:
>> The closeness might be a heat
concern.
>> Didn't post to the list, just FYI, in case you want
to discuss it.
>
>That's a good thought, but I have a feeling the
bolts might just be on an
>angle.
>If the pipes expanded too much
from heat, I think there would be a serious
>problem with pipes
cracking/bending and the engine moving and twisting. I
>won't say it's not
possible, but I think it's something simple like angled
>bolts or Stillen
making the pipe 0.002" short.
>
>Paul Butkiewicz
>Diablo
Enterprises
>Norwood, MA 02062-4012
>Phone/Fax (781)
769-4180
>http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/
>http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:21:51
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
Thats all fine and good. If
you love your car great, why sell it to buy
something your unfamiliar
with. However, where $5000 buys you close to
300h.p. in an NA, that
much into a TT will give you close to 500h.p. without
even getting into the
motor. Its all relative, and by me, the used TT and
SL prices are only
a few thousand away from each other.
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Michael Crisfield <
mcrisfield@ftmcdowell.org>
To:
Zobel, Kurt <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, October 16, 2001 5:04 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on
N/A
>All -
>
> I've been lurking on this list for awhile
and thanks, I have learned
>quite a bit about the turbo models (I own a 91
3000GT SL AUTO). One thing
I
>hear a lot of is (not just on this
list), don't tune an NA..just buy a TT.
>Here are my top ten reasons for
not selling my NA and buying a TT.
>
>1) I've rebuilt the
motor (along with lost of other misc. replacements)
and
>will be
rebuilding the tranny with shift kit and trans cooler (recommended
>by DSM
racer) by next year. If I sell I'm not going to get out what I
put
>in - not even close.
>
>2) Dynamic racing claims
that 5 staged upgrades (for around $5K), will get
>my car to 300hp without
NOS (same as my model year TT), 370 hp with NOS.
>
>3) The
difference in MY insurance will be about $40 a month if I buy a TT
>($480
a year).
>
>4) I haven't heard anything good about TT
trannys. I've heard of waiting
>lists and estimates of $4000 just
for parts. One guy swore off 3000GTs for
>Eclipses because he
claimed he didn't want to spend any more time or money
>rebuilding his
transmission (he was racing).
>
>5) This is my daily driver so
the AUTO is kinda nice.
>
>6) The AWD would be nice for
autocrossing but my wife would shoot me if I
>took off for
a
> weekend and spent $300+ without
her.
>
>8) Despite FWD my car handles pretty well even though
my suspension has
>130K on it.
>
>9) I love the way my
car looks and drives I just don't wanna get smoked by
>every high
school
> punk with a mustang or
civic.
>
>10) There are plenty of 300hp 3000GT TTs out there but how
many 300hp NAs?
>
>Anyway, I'm saving for my tranny rebuild
now. If I get the cash after that
>I plan on getting a GTECH to
monitor and post each upgrade/tweak I perform.
>My only fear is that I'll
drop 5K in the next few years, and end up with a
>car that's still in high
14s (new Mustang GTs run 14 flat so my goal
is
high
>13's).
>
> Michael - 91 3000GT SL AUTO
>(the
few, the proud, the slow)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:36:31
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Opinion about NA exhausts - Comments?...
Backpressure is not the
right term. You need to maintain or increase
exhaust velocity, done by
using the right diameter piping to match flow out
of the
cylinders.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest
<
bf@bobforrest.com>
To: Team3S
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, October 17, 2001 12:54 AM
Subject: Team3S: Opinion about NA
exhausts - Comments?...
>Note: As I mentioned in another post,
Drew Henson and GF Jamie are the 2
>current 'fastest' NA owners - times
they made with only a K&N - no NOS,
>gutted cat and no muffler.
They don't have a computer and are not list
>members, but he and I were
discussing aftermarket exhausts. He expects he
>can break 14sec with
a custom exhaust and drag radials. What he says makes
>a whole lot
of sense, IMO... Especially since he's among the few
owners
who
>I've ever spoken to who knows the proper (mid-RPM) way to
launch on street
>tires. I pointed out to him that what we *know*(?)
from the list is that
>our exhausts require a certain tuned backpressure
for good low-end
>acceleration. Here are his recent comments for
discussion...>>>
>
>-------------------------
>DH:
About the n/a needing backpressure... unless someone shows me dyno
>sheets
proving this fact, I'll continue to disagree. Even low
tech,
>inefficient small block chevy engines run better through open
headers than
a
>full exhaust, and that rule certainly applies to our
cars with more
>effecient exhaust valves, high lift/high duration cams,
and a high-peaking
>powerband. Our cars' HP peak is at 6K rpm, and
the torque peak is at 4500.
>If you launch at 3K on street tires, the car
is only in the lower rpms for
a
>second, and the rest of the way down
the track you never drop out of the
>upper rpms. Our car ran a
14.946 all stock, and ran a 14.710 with a K&N
and
>the factory
muffler removed/cat gutted. The car also chirps 3rd gear
since
>removing the muffler, and our trap speeds jumped from 90 to
94.
>
>I'm not wasting money on an aftermarket exhaust. I'd
rather fabricate my
>own, and know exactly what diameter pipe, bend
quality, and muffler
>placement I have under the car. Muffler
placement is key on a n/a engine.
>You install an unrestricted straight
pipe, paint it with cheap paint, and
>run the car for a few minutes.
Wherever the paint stops burning off is
>where you install the
muffler. If the paint burns off
>all the way back, you need a larger
pipe, and if it stops burning off too
>close to the engine, you can use a
smaller diameter. The idea is to allow
>the exhaust to take its
natural course at full velocity, then when
>the velocity slows, install
the muffler.
>---------------------
>
>Your comments,
please...
>
>Best,
>
>Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:14:20
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Washer in my #3 cylinder?
2 possible ways to get it out
(having dropped many small parts into
the deep recesses over the
years)
1. magnet - if the part you dropped is ferro magnetic there
is a
magnetic retriever you can get at probably any auto parts
store.
2. plumbers retriever - costs about $5 at Home Depot it's about
a
yard long with a spring loaded button at one end and claws on the
other.
You push the putton to open the claws, release it to clamp down.
It is
small enough to fit through the spark plug port and flexible so you can
move
it around.
[Willis, Charles E.]
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:20:31
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Major Engine Troubles
maybe left a hose disconnected?
sounds like a horrendous vacuum leak. this
is the way the car behaves
when the y-pipe blows off. check all the tubes
on the intake
side.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cody
[SMTP:overclck@starband.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 7:52
PM
> To: 'Team3S'; Starnet
> Subject: Team3S: Major Engine
Troubles
>
> 'OK, here it goes...
>
> Did the
60K service... Bought new ECU...
>
> Car will not idle
now, but it will rev all the way to redline and sounds
> healthy doing
it...
>
> I checked - no error codes in the
ECU...
>
> It sounds like it is backfiring through the
intake, but I can't be for
> sure...
>
> I double and
triple checked the valve timing and the crank pulley too...
> Everything
lines up perfectly...
>
> Basically, it runs fine at high
RPM, but at low RPM, sometimes it won't
> even accelerate the engine (no
load), and just dies, but most of the time,
> you press the gas, and it
accelerates healthily...
>
> Any ideas?
>
> -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:32:44
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
Okay, wizards, what sounds like a
belt squeaking on the drivers side of the
engine compartment when the engine
is cold, but gets much better or
disappears when the car warms to operating
temperature, on a '93 VR4 with
92000 miles that had (supposedly) the water
pump replaced with the 60K
maintenance. No temperature excusions, no
oil pressure oddities, normal
engine performance. Oil and fluid levels
normal. Belts appear to be in
good condition and tight. No
coolant leaks. Rear seals changed with recent
clutch replacement.
No, the noise started before I replaced the clutch.
I give up - take your
chances before I take it in to the dealer to pay him
$65 to guess how much I
can afford to pay!
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:42:48
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
>I give up - take your chances
before I take it in to the dealer to pay him
>$65 to guess how much I can
afford to pay!
>
I have a similar squeaking on my vr-4. However it
doesn't go away when
the car is warm. It started soon after I replaced all
the gaskets on my
downpipe / precats. The belts look fine. Maybe a small
exhaust leak past
a gasket causing the squeaks/whistles?
Walton
C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:41:48
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
Chuck, 10:1 it is you timing belt
tensioner... I had this problem on my 93,
just remove the tensioner soak it
in marvel mystery oil then dry off the
pulley section itself and reinstall.
No more squeaking :)
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Willis, Charles E. [SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent:
Wednesday, October 17, 2001 9:33 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
'3sracers@speedtoys.com'>
Subject: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
>
> Okay, wizards,
what sounds like a belt squeaking on the drivers side of
> the
>
engine compartment when the engine is cold, but gets much better or
>
disappears when the car warms to operating temperature, on a '93 VR4
with
> 92000 miles that had (supposedly) the water pump replaced with the
60K
> maintenance. No temperature excusions, no oil pressure
oddities, normal
> engine performance. Oil and fluid levels
normal. Belts appear to be in
> good condition and tight. No
coolant leaks. Rear seals changed with
> recent
> clutch
replacement. No, the noise started before I replaced the clutch.
>
> I give up - take your chances before I take it in to the dealer to pay
him
> $65 to guess how much I can afford to pay!
>
> Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:50:47
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
Isn't getting to the tensioner
pretty much equivalent to replacing the
timing belt? (I'm thinking of my old
GSX) Why wouldn't I just replace the
tensioner if I removed it?
Maybe I can get a line in there and lubricate it
without taking it off
...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell
[SMTP:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 8:42
AM
> To: 'Willis, Charles E.'; 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4
trivia noise of the day
>
> Chuck, 10:1 it is you timing belt
tensioner... I had this problem on my
> 93,
> just remove the
tensioner soak it in marvel mystery oil then dry off the
> pulley section
itself and reinstall. No more squeaking :)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 06:29:49
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
VR4 trivia noise of the day
Any change when the A/C comes on --- it might
be the A/C clutch.
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, October 17, 2001 6:32 AM
Subject: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the
day
> Okay, wizards, what sounds like a belt squeaking on the drivers
side of the
> engine compartment when the engine is cold, but gets much
better or
> disappears when the car warms to operating temperature, on a
'93 VR4 with
> 92000 miles that had (supposedly) the water pump replaced
with the 60K
> maintenance. No temperature excusions, no oil
pressure oddities, normal
> engine performance. Oil and fluid levels
normal. Belts appear to be in
> good condition and tight. No
coolant leaks. Rear seals changed with recent
> clutch
replacement. No, the noise started before I replaced the clutch.
>
> I give up - take your chances before I take it in to the dealer to pay
him
> $65 to guess how much I can afford to pay!
>
> Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:51:33
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
Chuck if your are going to go
about it that way then use WD-40, I do not
believe Marvel comes in a
compressed spray can.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Willis, Charles E. [SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent:
Wednesday, October 17, 2001 9:51 AM
> To: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
>
> Isn't getting to the
tensioner pretty much equivalent to replacing the
> timing belt? (I'm
thinking of my old GSX) Why wouldn't I just replace the
> tensioner
if I removed it? Maybe I can get a line in there and lubricate
>
it
> without taking it off ...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 06:58:48
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Beeping under full boost
Here's an interesting problem. When
under full boost, there is a beeping
sound coming from inside the dash
somewhere. It sounds like the door
buzzer, but not quite as loud. I
disconnected the buzzer and it still makes
the noise, so it's not that. I'm
thinking it's an air leak, but i'm not
aware of any air lines coming into
the passenger compartment, except to the
clutch booster, which should be
restricted under boost anyway.
Any ideas? It's a 92 VR-4.....bone
stock
Wayne
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:28:12
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
> Chuck if your are going to
go about it that way then use WD-40, I do not
> believe Marvel comes
in a compressed spray can.
Won't WD-40 harm the timing belt?
just a
thought...
Paul Butkiewicz
Diablo Enterprises
Norwood, MA
02062-4012
Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:47:14
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Beeping under full boost
> Here's an interesting problem.
When under full boost,
> there is a beeping sound coming from inside the
dash
> somewhere. It sounds like the door buzzer, but not
> quite as
loud.
I pressurized my intake with an air compressor and found my noise
like that
was coming from the clutch booster (even though that isn't supposed
to
happen with the 1-way check valve in the line). I dunno...
Easiest way to
find it is to make a pressure tester and pump it up to 15 psi
and look for
leaks. You'll probably find others somewhere as well which
will make doing
it even more worthwhile.
Just cobble together some
Home Depot PVC to make the tester...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:56:09
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
I do not believe so... last
time I checked its "ingredients" it had a
couple of the same item as belt
dressing FWIW
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
[SMTP:DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 10:28
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
>
> >
Chuck if your are going to go about it that way then use WD-40, I do
>
not
> > believe Marvel comes in a compressed spray can.
>
> Won't WD-40 harm the timing belt?
> just a thought...
>
> Paul Butkiewicz
> Diablo Enterprises
> Norwood, MA
02062-4012
> Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
>
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/>
http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 11:03:46
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
Ummm.. isn't it true that, if you
remove the tensioner, you need to replace it?
I believe that is
true..
Try this first:
Start the car, take a can of silicone spray,
and when the noise starts, try
spraying the belts and the pulleys one at a
time to see if it is them. I found
that my belt was a squeak too loose,
and later that the one pulley was starting
to go using this method. Be
sparing with the spray, it won't take much. Also,
be sure to spray each
part exclusively!
Best of luck
Ken
"Willis, Charles E."
wrote:
> Okay, wizards, what sounds like a belt squeaking on the
drivers side of the
> engine compartment when the engine is cold, but gets
much better or
> disappears when the car warms to operating temperature,
on a '93 VR4 with
> 92000 miles that had (supposedly) the water pump
replaced with the 60K
> maintenance. No temperature excusions, no
oil pressure oddities, normal
> engine performance. Oil and fluid
levels normal. Belts appear to be in
> good condition and
tight. No coolant leaks. Rear seals changed with recent
>
clutch replacement. No, the noise started before I replaced the
clutch.
>
> I give up - take your chances before I take it in to the
dealer to pay him
> $65 to guess how much I can afford to
pay!
>
> Chuck
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
- --
Ken Stanton
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
'91 Pearl
White R/T TwinTurbo
Super Snoopy - Plates 007KEN
FIPK, HKS Exhaust, APEXi
AVC-R, Improved Precats
Bozzspeed Lightweight Flywheel, RPS Stage
II
6-speed transmission (5-6 speed conversion)
Aiwa MP3
Stereo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:32:11
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
Good question! - no change in
noise other than usual a/c engagement.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jim Berry [SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, October 17, 2001 8:30 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
3sracers@speedtoys.com> Subject:
Re: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
>
> Any change when the A/C
comes on --- it might be the A/C clutch.
>
> Jim Berry
>
===============================================
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 6:32 AM
> Subject: Team3S: VR4 trivia
noise of the day
>
>
> > Okay, wizards, what sounds like
a belt squeaking on the drivers side of
> the
> > engine
compartment when the engine is cold, but gets much better or
> >
disappears when the car warms to operating temperature, on a '93 VR4
>
with
> > 92000 miles that had (supposedly) the water pump replaced with
the 60K
> > maintenance. No temperature excusions, no oil
pressure oddities, normal
> > engine performance. Oil and fluid
levels normal. Belts appear to be in
> > good condition and
tight. No coolant leaks. Rear seals changed with
>
recent
> > clutch replacement. No, the noise started before I
replaced the clutch.
> >
> > I give up - take your chances
before I take it in to the dealer to pay
> him
> > $65 to guess
how much I can afford to pay!
> >
> > Chuck
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:34:48
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Beeping under full boost
BOV chatter?
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Wayne
[SMTP:whietala@prodigy.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 8:59
AM
> To:
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Subject: Team3S: Beeping under full boost
>
> Here's an interesting
problem. When under full boost, there is a beeping
> sound coming from
inside the dash somewhere. It sounds like the door
> buzzer, but not
quite as loud. I disconnected the buzzer and it still
> makes
> the
noise, so it's not that. I'm thinking it's an air leak, but i'm not
>
aware of any air lines coming into the passenger compartment, except to
>
the
> clutch booster, which should be restricted under boost
anyway.
>
> Any ideas? It's a 92 VR-4.....bone stock
>
> Wayne
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:35:41
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
I think I could follow up the
WD40 with a healthy spray of belt dressing ...
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
[SMTP:DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 9:28
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
>
> >
Chuck if your are going to go about it that way then use WD-40, I do
>
not
> > believe Marvel comes in a compressed spray can.
>
> Won't WD-40 harm the timing belt?
> just a thought...
>
> Paul Butkiewicz
> Diablo Enterprises
> Norwood, MA
02062-4012
> Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
>
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/>
http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:29:27
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Major Engine Trouble Update
I have checked the Crank Angle
Sensor, and it is working. I don't care
about the IAC or anything of
that sorts, cause it won't run correctly
off idle even. I can worry
about that later. I double checked, still
no ECU error codes. I
pulled all the spark plugs and they are BLACK.
Black means rich, so I am
thinking there may have been some bad gas in
the tank that wasn't combusting
properly (or at all). I am in the
process of going to the mainland (by
ferry, geez that takes forever) to
purchase new spark plugs. Can I use
the cheapie $1 a piece spark plugs
until I figured this thing out? If
so, anyone have any recommendations
on which cheap ones? I figured some
cheap, pure copper plugs would
work. Also - one other question - can
you adjust the crank angle
sensor, and if so, can you do it without removing
the alternator and A/C
belt?
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:50:31
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Major Engine Trouble Update
did you take out some gas and
look at it? If it has water in it, it looks
like a mocha
frappacino.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cody
[SMTP:overclck@starband.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 10:29
AM
> To: Team3S; 'Starnet'
> Subject: Team3S: Major Engine Trouble
Update
>
> I have checked the Crank Angle Sensor, and it is
working. I don't care
> about the IAC or anything of that sorts,
cause it won't run correctly
> off idle even. I can worry about that
later. I double checked, still
> no ECU error codes. I pulled
all the spark plugs and they are BLACK.
> Black means rich, so I am
thinking there may have been some bad gas in
> the tank that wasn't
combusting properly (or at all). I am in the
> process of going to
the mainland (by ferry, geez that takes forever) to
> purchase new spark
plugs. Can I use the cheapie $1 a piece spark plugs
> until I
figured this thing out? If so, anyone have any recommendations
> on
which cheap ones? I figured some cheap, pure copper plugs would
>
work. Also - one other question - can you adjust the crank angle
>
sensor, and if so, can you do it without removing the alternator and A/C
>
belt?
>
> -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:10:35
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Major Engine Troubles
Cody,
> I have it right
now: top pair of wires goes to the drivers side spark
> plugs,
middle pair of wires goes to the center plugs, and the bottom
> pair of
wires goes to the passenger side plugs...
That sounds like your
problem. The coil packs are numbered (from the rear
or top, toward the
front of the car) 1, 4, 2, 5, 3, 6. Each pair of
cylinders fire at the
same time, one on the tail end of the compression
stroke(needed), and one on
the tail-end of the exhaust stroke(wasted). It
sounds like you have
them connected 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. That would cause
significant
issues.
As John said, the cylinders are numbered with all the
even-numbered
cylinders in the rear bank and the odd numbered ones on the
front bank.
Lower numbers are on the driver's side (1 and 2) and high numbers
are on the
passenger's side (5 and 6). See my webpage for more
details:
http://www.speedtoys.com/~egross/3000GT/SparkPlugs/PlugChange.htmlYou
can clearly see the front bank wire routing in the pictures. Note
that
I have one black wire (#1) and the rest are red in the
pictures.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
had a '95 base model
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:05:40
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Beeping under full boost
Examples of cheap and easy intake
pressure testers:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius3/j3-2-pressuretester.htmNote
that to test the by-pass valve you will have to disconnect the
BPV from the
intake hose (the one the MAS connects to) and plug the
opening in the intake
hose. Then you will have to route the plenum
hose from the plenum and to the
Y-pipe (where the boost reference
hose attaches) and plug the opening on the
plenum. This should create
equal pressure on both sides of the BPV valve and
it theoretically
shouldn't open until you supply more pressure than the
spring can
handle. I haven't actually tried this yet - will soon.
Pressurizing
the intake with the BPV in its normal configuration just
pressurizes
all sides of it.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
"'Wayne'" <
whietala@prodigy.net>; <
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, October 17, 2001 8:47 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Beeping under full
boost
> Here's an interesting problem. When under full
boost,
> there is a beeping sound coming from inside the dash
>
somewhere. It sounds like the door buzzer, but not
> quite as
loud.
I pressurized my intake with an air compressor and found my
noise
like that was coming from the clutch booster (even though that
isn't
supposed to happen with the 1-way check valve in the line).
I
dunno... Easiest way to find it is to make a pressure tester
and
pump it up to 15 psi and look for leaks. You'll probably find
others
somewhere as well which will make doing it even more
worthwhile.
Just cobble together some Home Depot PVC to make the
tester...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 11:05:43
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
> I think I could follow up
the WD40 with a healthy spray
> of belt dressing ...
I'm pretty
sure you aren't supposed to get anything on the timing belt at
all. Its
so important a piece that I'd try to keep it as clean as possible
and not put
any goop on it. There are also optical sensors (cam angle,
crank angle)
in the timing belt area and you don't want goop flying off the
belt and onto
the sensors. At least on my year car the sensors aren't
sealed against
dirt getting onto the optical senders/receivers since it
should be pretty
much spotless under the timing covers.
Probably wouldn't make a
difference, but I'm not going to risk it on my car.
;-)
The tensioner
pulley uses a sealed bearing - so just hitting it with WD40
probably isn't
going to solve the problem. The bearing should be repacked -
and its
easier (and more of a long-term fix) to just replace the tensioner
pulley (if
that's actually the source of the noise).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:54:42
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FW: October Quickening 2001 pictures (fwd)
Forwarded for
Darren
- ---
Geoff Mohler
- ---------- Forwarded message
----------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 02:24:09 -0400
From: Darren Schilberg
<
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To:
Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
FW: October Quickening 2001 pictures
Here is what did not send to
Team3S.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001
06:10
Subject: October Quickening 2001 pictures
Well you
asked for it.
This is to anyone who is listed as "Who Is Coming" for the
Cape Cod
Gathering. If you did not make it then browse these for what
you
missed.
If you did make it then take a look at what I captured.
Certainly not
everything but a good bit of the Fall colors through PA and CT
that many
of
you did not get to see but I'll wait for pictures from the
other shutter
bugs before we have a complete set of shots from around the
area.
The pictures of signs are to help me remember where the pictures
are
from so
don't worry about that right now. These are the
unprocessed pictures
(uncropped, unpainted, unedited) and they have no
description but since
most
people were at the events (Poker Run, Car Show,
F1 Boston, etc.) they do
not
need much explaining. I'll get it
organized better later but everyone
wanted to see them as soon as possible
for many of them.
Enjoy and let me know if you want the full-size picture
of anything and
I'll
throw them on a site for you to download (about
500-1,000 kb for the
full-size pictures).
(this should be the link --
if not then let me know -- the pages and
pictures have just started uploading
to the site so it will be a bunch
of
minutes before they are all copied so
in case you are awake at this time
of
day just be patient)
www.speedracer.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/events/CapeCod2001/index.htm
It
was great meeting you new folks (Lou, Hal), matching some faces
with
the
userids (Paul, Greg C.), and seeing the familiar faces
again. We had a
great time and can't wait to return next year.
Thanks again Eric and
Melissa for putting on a great gathering.
-
--Flash! (and Flashette)
1995 Black VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:55:02
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FW: October Quickening 2001 pictures (fwd)
Forwarded for
Darren
Geoff Mohler
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren
Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001
06:21
Subject: Re: October Quickening 2001 pictures
To help
you navigate where to start looking in the pictures -- here is a
quick
rundown of our trip.
Left Pittsburgh, PA
Headed through middle PA and
out I-80.
Up through Bushkill Falls, PA for the pictures of the ducks on the
pond.
Just across the NY border are the night shots with fun on long
exposure
times.
CT gave a ton of good pictures with lots of them being
taken at a farm
that
I did not want to leave (it is the one with the bull
of large horns).
On through RI.
Into the Bed & Breakfast (we passed
this on the Poker Run by the way).
Then the Poker Run.
Then the Car
Show.
Then the Eric Bowden Award Show.
Then back to the Big Dipper for the
Jeff food run and a peek at a nice
motorcycle.
Then on to F1
Boston.
Back down to Foxwoods (casino) in CT on Sunday.
Sherwood's for
excellent ribs Sunday night.
Back down a similar path in PA shooting the
Stealths/3000GTs I saw along
the
way.
Another stop at a must-see diner
(Jeff you will like the before and
after
shots here)
Through our alma
mater of Penn State University and a photo op (self
taken)
of the
mascot.
I think that is it for now. Just thought I would clarify
what some of
the
400 pictures are.
- --Flash!
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 12:46:50
EDT
From:
NETM1NDER@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Re:
TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Report
Eric. If you have a chance can you
take a picture of you and the strut tower
brace installed on you car for my
album?
Thanks!
Chris
95VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 13:15:09
-0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
Chuck,
Make sure that the
lower timing belt cover isn't making contact with the
power steering pulley
or belt. If not that then it may be one of the other
idler
pulleys.
Good luck,
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 13:34:47
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available
Installation Page
and Pictures are now available on my website:
http://www.speedtoys.com/~egross/3000GT/FrontStrutTowerBar/FrontStrutTowerBar.html
(gotta
be all one line if it gets chopped off)
Most pictures are "clickable" for
larger images.
Enjoy,
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 13:59:18
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures
Available
Erik,
Your car is a '95 VR4 and the strut tower brace
does not interfere
with the hood closing. I have looked carefully next to my
strut
towers as I close the hood, and it looks to me that the
supports
pieces of my '92 TT hood come to rest far below where the bar
would
attach, meaning the bar would not let the hood close. Have you
or
anyone on this list mounted one of these bars on a '91-'93 TT/VR4?
Does
the hood close OK?
Thanks,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: <
NETM1NDER@aol.com>; <
stealth@starnet.net>;
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <
stealth@stls.verio.net>;
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <
nws3@yahoogroups.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, October 17, 2001 2:34 PM
Subject: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower
Brace Pictures Available
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 23:04:25
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: OT : 2nd gen 3000GT in Music Video
"Jeanette Biedermann" just
finished her Video for the new single "How Itīs
Got To Be" where she drives a
silver C5 through Berlin (capital of Germany)
and at a light a red 2nd gen 3k
stops aside of her. The guy in there looks
over and she starts dreaming of a
road race through Berlin with those two
cars. Just saw the making of and it's
a nice shot including u-turns ! Hope
to find the video online sometimes
:-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 14:12:13
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available
> Have you or
anyone on this list mounted one of these
> bars on a '91-'93 TT/VR4? Does
the hood close OK?
It fits fine on my car, but I haven't tried it on a
'91-'93 car, but maybe
Chris has... Chris? What about the others who
initially ordered braces?
There were a bunch of us...
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 23:08:51
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available
The strut
tower brace fits both generations.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Your car is a '95 VR4 and
the strut tower brace does not interfere
> with the hood closing. I have
looked carefully next to my strut
> towers as I close the hood, and it
looks to me that the supports
> pieces of my '92 TT hood come to rest far
below where the bar would
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 17:16:26
EDT
From:
NETM1NDER@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available
Hi this is Chris. Yes, it
does fit, I tried it on a 92SL with no problems.
Chris 95VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 15:21:07
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available
Jeff,
Peggy
Schafale in Colorado Springs has purchased one for her '91
Stealth.
You
can take a look at hers once it is installed.
Jim
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, October 17, 2001 2:59 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures
Available
Erik,
Your car is a '95 VR4 and the strut tower brace
does not interfere
with the hood closing. I have looked carefully next to my
strut
towers as I close the hood, and it looks to me that the
supports
pieces of my '92 TT hood come to rest far below where the bar
would
attach, meaning the bar would not let the hood close. Have you
or
anyone on this list mounted one of these bars on a '91-'93 TT/VR4?
Does
the hood close OK?
Thanks,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: <
NETM1NDER@aol.com>; <
stealth@starnet.net>;
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <
stealth@stls.verio.net>;
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <
nws3@yahoogroups.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, October 17, 2001 2:34 PM
Subject: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower
Brace Pictures Available
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 17:24:03
EDT
From:
NETM1NDER@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available
Yes, the hood closes
without touching the strut tower brace, it looks close
but I did check it
out & it fits ALL the years from 91 to 99. The inner
structure is the
same.
Chris 95VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 21:13:36
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
I am going to guess the accessory
belt tensioner.
Rich
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis,
Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, October 17, 2001 8:32 AM
Subject: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the
day
> Okay, wizards, what sounds like a belt squeaking on the drivers
side of
the
> engine compartment when the engine is cold, but gets much
better or
> disappears when the car warms to operating temperature, on a
'93 VR4 with
> 92000 miles that had (supposedly) the water pump replaced
with the 60K
> maintenance. No temperature excusions, no oil
pressure oddities, normal
> engine performance. Oil and fluid levels
normal. Belts appear to be in
> good condition and tight. No
coolant leaks. Rear seals changed with
recent
> clutch
replacement. No, the noise started before I replaced the
clutch.
>
> I give up - take your chances before I take it in to the
dealer to pay him
> $65 to guess how much I can afford to
pay!
>
> Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#648
***************************************