Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Wednesday, October 17 2001  Volume 01 : Number 648




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 19:52:11 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: Team3S: Major Engine Troubles

'OK, here it goes.
 
Did the 60K service.  Bought new ECU.
 
Car will not idle now, but it will rev all the way to redline and sounds
healthy doing it. 
 
I checked - no error codes in the ECU. 
 
It sounds like it is backfiring through the intake, but I can't be for
sure.
 
I double and triple checked the valve timing and the crank pulley too.
Everything lines up perfectly.
 
Basically, it runs fine at high RPM, but at low RPM, sometimes it won't
even accelerate the engine (no load), and just dies, but most of the
time, you press the gas, and it accelerates healthily.
 
Any ideas?
 
- -Cody

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 14:17:01 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re Short notice for 60K- Vancouver(PDX) Area

Anyone in the I-5 corridor in WA who wants to caravan down there, let me
know (not on the Team3S list!)  I'm planning to go.

Oh yeah.... technical content for Team3S: 

stock '94 VR-4 17" wheels weigh 24lbs each  :)

- --Erik

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rich [mailto:rleroy@pacifier.com]
> Subject: Team3S: OT: Short Notice For 60k Clinic - Vancouver
> (PDX) Area
>
> I am doing a 60k for another list member this weekend (10/20) if
> anyone is interested in watching/learning.  We were going to give
> more notice to the group, but SNAFU's in coordinating parts only
> let us get firm on the date earlier today.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 16:52:10 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Opinion about NA exhausts - Comments?...

Note:  As I mentioned in another post, Drew Henson and GF Jamie are the 2
current 'fastest' NA owners - times they made with only a K&N - no NOS,
gutted cat and no muffler.  They don't have a computer and are not list
members, but he and I were discussing aftermarket exhausts.  He expects he
can break 14sec with a custom exhaust and drag radials.  What he says makes
a whole lot of sense, IMO...  Especially since he's among the few owners who
I've ever spoken to who knows the proper (mid-RPM) way to launch on street
tires.  I pointed out to him that what we *know*(?) from the list is that
our exhausts require a certain tuned backpressure for good low-end
acceleration.  Here are his recent comments for discussion...>>>

- -------------------------
DH:  About the n/a needing backpressure... unless someone shows me dyno
sheets proving this fact, I'll continue to disagree.  Even low tech,
inefficient small block chevy engines run better through open headers than a
full exhaust, and that rule certainly applies to our cars with more
effecient exhaust valves, high lift/high duration cams, and a high-peaking
powerband.  Our cars' HP peak is at 6K rpm, and the torque peak is at 4500.
If you launch at 3K on street tires, the car is only in the lower rpms for a
second, and the rest of the way down the track you never drop out of the
upper rpms.  Our car ran a 14.946 all stock, and ran a 14.710 with a K&N and
the factory muffler removed/cat gutted.  The car also chirps 3rd gear since
removing the muffler, and our trap speeds jumped from 90 to 94.

I'm not wasting money on an aftermarket exhaust.  I'd rather fabricate my
own, and know exactly what diameter pipe, bend quality, and muffler
placement I have under the car.  Muffler placement is key on a n/a engine.
You install an unrestricted straight pipe, paint it with cheap paint, and
run the car for a few minutes.  Wherever the paint stops burning off is
where you install the muffler.  If the paint burns off
all the way back, you need a larger pipe, and if it stops burning off too
close to the engine, you can use a smaller diameter.  The idea is to allow
the exhaust to take its natural course at full velocity, then when
the velocity slows, install the muffler.
- ---------------------

Your comments, please...

Best,

Forrest

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:28:43 -0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Redlined Engine & Knocking/Ticking Sound?

If the knock seems like it is coming from deep inside the motor, then it is
probably a rod knock.   A bolt probably broke or stretched or rod cap
stretched making the big end of the connecting rod larger, thus the knock
sound.
I don't see how a main bearing could make a knocking noise.  The main
bearings are what the crack rides in, in the block. They are similar to cam
bearings.

If it is just a rod knock then you are not too bad off.  You still need to
take the engine apart, but you may not need to rebuild the whole thing.
Just replace the rod and maybe have the crank ground.  If you don't have a
lot of miles on the engine and are thrifty don't waste the bucks on going
through the whole thing.

Price up having the crank ground ,new rod bearings and a new connecting rod.
vs. Block hot tanked, crank ground, new rings, all connecting rods rebuilt,
oil pump, heads done........etc.......  You'll see how fast the money will
be going out of your pockets.

If you plan on racing and were going to do a major rebuild anyway then I
would go through the whole thing and do it right, but if this is a daily
driver I wouldn't waste the money

One thing is for sure, if you drive it, you run the risk of throwing a rod
or something else that will probably double the cost of a normal rebuild
because you will be buying a new block or cylinder head.

Good luck,

Rich
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 7:55 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Redlined Engine & Knocking/Ticking Sound?

> Shit.... this sounds like my problem....
> It's heavier than the lifter tick and much louder.
> Anyway to fix it before it gets worse?  Or is it as bad as it gets?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:39:32 -0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Redlined Engine & Knocking/Ticking Sound?

I just thought of something else...

Are the engines prone to broken rings?

I had a L4 mustang that broke the top ring and make a knocking noise because
the piston was rocking around.

If that is the case, your looking at some costs for hone and possible bore
of that cylinder, new piston, rings...etc.

Rich
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Fennell" <realmstl@home.com>
To: "Team3S" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Redlined Engine & Knocking/Ticking Sound?


> If the knock seems like it is coming from deep inside the motor, then it
is
> probably a rod knock.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:54:16 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Major Engine Troubles

Well, one thing I did try was disabling pairs of cylinders at a time, to
no avail.

Does any one have a easy to read diagram of where plug wires go?

I did my best to decipher the crappy picture in the service manual...

I have it right now:  top pair of wires goes to the drivers side spark
plugs, middle pair of wires goes to the center plugs, and the bottom
pair of wires goes to the passenger side plugs...

Someone please confirm...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: DENNIS HACKNEY [mailto:dennis_hackney@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 1:23 AM
To: stealth@stls.verio.net
Subject: RE: Major Engine Troubles

  Stupid question for Cody, but did you mess with the plug wires? If
your
wires are in the correct positions then it is possible that your crank
trigger, cam trigger, or both ignition pick-ups could be bad. If it's
pre 93
or 94.. I think it only has a crank trigger. If that one pick up coil
goes
bad, then bye bye ignition timming, hello irradic spark:)

  Also, if the mass air sensor goes bad the car will not idle in most
cases.

Dennis

>From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
>Reply-To: stealth@starnet.net
>To: <stealth@stls.verio.net>
>Subject: RE: Major Engine Troubles
>Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:09:39 -0500
>
>I thought the same.  But no error codes, nor will it even come close to
>running off idle correctly, except at high RPM.
>
>Anyone know the exact place in the manual to check ignition timing???
>
>-Cody
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Paul @ Diablo Enterprises [mailto:3S@DiabloEnterprises.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 8:02 PM
>To: stealth@stls.verio.net
>Subject: Re: Major Engine Troubles
>
>Sounds like ignition timing and possibly an ISC motor.  Any thoughts?
>Paul Butkiewicz
>Diablo Enterprises
>Norwood, MA  02062-4012
>http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/
>http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/
>----- Original Message -----
>From: cody <mailto:overclck@starband.net>
>To: 'Team3S' <mailto:team3s@mail.speedtoys.com>  ; Starnet
><mailto:stealth@stls.verio.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 8:52 PM
>Subject: Major Engine Troubles
>
>'OK, here it goes.
>
>Did the 60K service.  Bought new ECU.
>
>Car will not idle now, but it will rev all the way to redline and
sounds
>healthy doing it.
>
>I checked - no error codes in the ECU.
>
>It sounds like it is backfiring through the intake, but I can't be for
>sure.
>
>I double and triple checked the valve timing and the crank pulley too.
>Everything lines up perfectly.
>
>Basically, it runs fine at high RPM, but at low RPM, sometimes it won't
>even accelerate the engine (no load), and just dies, but most of the
>time, you press the gas, and it accelerates healthily.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>-Cody

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 21:21:22 -0500
From: daedel@mac.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:(off topic) Insurance

Man... talk about laying into a guy. I was just kinda curious and my
prospects look better than what I thought they might be previously. I'm
going to call my insurance company in the morning to see. Thanks to all
of you who sent in your rates.

- -D

On Monday, October 15, 2001, at 08:16 PM, Jannusch, Matt wrote:

> Unfortunately its kinda silly to ask people on the internet what they
> pay
> for insurance.  The only thing that matters is what price can YOU get
> insurance for...  If someone says they are paying $50 a month, does that
> mean you should expect to get that deal?  They might live in the middle
> of
> nowhere, drive 15 miles a year, have incredibly high deductibles, own
> two
> houses, be 90 years old and married with fifteen kids and a dog.
>
> It just doesn't matter what others pay - its what the companies want to
> charge YOU that matters.  Even folks in the same city can pay vastly
> different rates depending on exactly where in that city they live or
> their
> particular situation.
>
> My only advice is to call every insurance company you can find and
> compromise on one that'll give good service (actually being willing to
> PAY
> for legitimate claims if you ever have to make one) and a balance with
> cost.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: 16 Oct 2001 19:25:17 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: [none]

Quote from reasons to hot rod a NA:

6)  The AWD would be nice for autocrossing but my wife would shoot me if I took off for a weekend and spent $300+ without her

The tire rack in Southbend Indiana provides the property for autocrossing.  I only paid $17 for last event.  If I was a SCCA member I would have saved $3.

The next autocross in on October 28th.  It is an Australian pursuit.  2 cars start on opposite ends of the track and the first car to complete 3 laps (or get too close to car in front wins).  If 3 more 3000gt/stealths show up we can get our own class.

Southbend is only 2 hours from edge of Chicago and ony a little more from Indianapolis and Detroit. 

I would love to see a few more cars there even if you don't run.  See post on 3si.

http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=19d6440fe5eb92b853b18485a2a8d29a&threadid=48520

John Monnin
1991 VR-4
4-bolt main conversion
BPU

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: 16 Oct 2001 19:25:17 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: [none]

Quote from reasons to hot rod a NA:

6)  The AWD would be nice for autocrossing but my wife would shoot me if I took off for a weekend and spent $300+ without her

The tire rack in Southbend Indiana provides the property for autocrossing.  I only paid $17 for last event.  If I was a SCCA member I would have saved $3.

The next autocross in on October 28th.  It is an Australian pursuit.  2 cars start on opposite ends of the track and the first car to complete 3 laps (or get too close to car in front wins).  If 3 more 3000gt/stealths show up we can get our own class.

Southbend is only 2 hours from edge of Chicago and ony a little more from Indianapolis and Detroit. 

I would love to see a few more cars there even if you don't run.  See post on 3si.

http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=19d6440fe5eb92b853b18485a2a8d29a&threadid=48520

John Monnin
1991 VR-4
4-bolt main conversion
BPU

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 21:33:16 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Redlined Engine & Knocking/Ticking Sound?

> Are the engines prone to broken rings?

At least broken ring lands under detonation - yes.  I don't think overrev
alone would break rings though - they seem to be pretty strong.

> If that is the case, your looking at some costs
> for hone and possible bore of that cylinder,
> new piston, rings...etc.

My engine ate three pistons' ring lands and a portion of one compression
ring and no knocking sound.  There were "clicking" sounds of the ring lands
and ring pieces knocking divots into the head and the like though.

Surprisingly enough, the bores were nearly perfect even after all of that.
Probably could've gotten away with just honing the cylinders and replacing
with stock pistons/rings - but I made the "mistake" of trying to "do it
right" to the tune of about $5000 so far (and counting).

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 21:40:31 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:(off topic) Insurance

> Man... talk about laying into a guy. I was just kinda
> curious and my prospects look better than what I thought
> they might be previously.

Sorry for laying into you...  I thought this was the Tech list.  My mistake.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 22:23:13 -0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: Re: Redlined Engine & Knocking/Ticking Sound?

At least you'll have one heck of an engine. :-)

Rich

(snip)

- - but I made the "mistake" of trying to "do it
> right" to the tune of about $5000 so far (and counting).
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 22:51:11 -0500
From: "Kyle" <celica@speed-racer.com>
Subject: Team3S: Active Aero Light

I have an SL, and my active aero light comes on, typically when i'm either
breaking or accererating hard. the wierd thing is, i dont have an active
aero system. is my car wired for active aero, and the wiring went bad? any
help on this ~mysterious~ :-) problem? thanks,
Kyle Call
93 SL

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 23:12:36 -0500
From: "Nemisis" <nemisis@vci.net>
Subject: Team3S: Blitz BOV Questions

Hello Again!

Sorry to be asking so many questions but I just received my used Blitz BOV
kit in the mail. Ive got it hooked up venting to the atmosphere but its not
even louder than stock. (and yes I plugged the intake) .. How on earth do
you adjust the volume on the blitz?

Thanks,
Jon

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 21:13:42 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Blitz BOV Questions

Get bigger turbos so it has more air to expel :)

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Nemisis
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 9:13 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Blitz BOV Questions

Hello Again!

Sorry to be asking so many questions but I just received my used Blitz
BOV kit in the mail. Ive got it hooked up venting to the atmosphere but
its not even louder than stock. (and yes I plugged the intake) .. How on
earth do you adjust the volume on the blitz?

Thanks,
Jon

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 23:04:42 -0700
From: "john stewart" <john.stewart@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Team3S: OT: Insurance Rates

I went through the insurance shopping drill when I got my Stealth. Being a
basically efficient (OK, lazy) kind of guy, I created a Word file on my PC
with all of the information I expected the insurance guys to ask for: VIN,
year, model, desired coverage, recent tickets. Then I went through the
Yellow Pages and got the FAX numbers for the insurance agents. FAX'ed 'em
all through the computer with my Word file & didn't have to repeat all of
the details to 30 different agents. Got a rate I could live with.

Aren't computers wonderful?

\John Stewart
'92 Blue Twin-Turbo

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 06:18:08 -0600
From: "Vic O'Kane" <fiendishhq@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Why does my car do this?

<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>Help,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp; My '94 SL will periodically, when I'm coasting to a light, start revving from about 1,700 to 2,000 rpms at first kinda slowly kinda like the car is almost snorting&nbsp; then the revs will get faster and closer together until sometimes it will start to rev all the way to 2,500rpms when I'm idling in neutral - but its only some days that this happens, and doesn't seem to have anything to do with how I've been driving that day - Its frustrating, and those of my friends that have anything useful to say about engine problems have no idea what its about - any ideas?</DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag_itl_EN.asp'>http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></html>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:31:54 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stillen Downpipe Report

Grind out the middle (rear pre-cat) connection holes about 1/8" more and it
will fit like a glove.  I bought my pipe 2 years ago, and they still havn't
changed anything --great pipe nonetheless.

Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com <DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 12:08 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stillen Downpipe Report

>In a message dated 10/16/01 7:59:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com writes:
>> The closeness might be a heat concern.
>>  Didn't post to the list, just FYI, in case you want to discuss it.
>
>That's a good thought, but I have a feeling the bolts might just be on an
>angle.
>If the pipes expanded too much from heat, I think there would be a serious
>problem with pipes cracking/bending and the engine moving and twisting. I
>won't say it's not possible, but I think it's something simple like angled
>bolts or Stillen making the pipe 0.002" short.
>
>Paul Butkiewicz
>Diablo Enterprises
>Norwood, MA  02062-4012
>Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
>http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/
>http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:21:51 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 350 HP  (crank) on N/A

Thats all fine and good.  If you love your car great, why sell it to buy
something your unfamiliar with.  However, where $5000 buys you close to
300h.p. in an NA, that much into a TT will give you close to 500h.p. without
even getting into the motor.  Its all relative, and by me, the used TT and
SL prices are only a few thousand away from each other.

Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Crisfield <mcrisfield@ftmcdowell.org>
To: Zobel, Kurt <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 5:04 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A

>All -
>
> I've been lurking on this list for awhile and thanks, I have learned
>quite a bit about the turbo models (I own a 91 3000GT SL AUTO).  One thing
I
>hear a lot of is (not just on this list), don't tune an NA..just buy a TT.
>Here are my top ten reasons for not selling my NA and buying a TT.
>
>1)  I've rebuilt the motor (along with lost of other misc. replacements)
and
>will be rebuilding the tranny with shift kit and trans cooler (recommended
>by DSM racer) by next year.  If I sell I'm not going to get out what I put
>in - not even close.
>
>2)  Dynamic racing claims that 5 staged upgrades (for around $5K), will get
>my car to 300hp without NOS (same as my model year TT), 370 hp with NOS.
>
>3)  The difference in MY insurance will be about $40 a month if I buy a TT
>($480 a year).
>
>4)  I haven't heard anything good about TT trannys.  I've heard of waiting
>lists and estimates of $4000 just for parts.  One guy swore off 3000GTs for
>Eclipses because he claimed he didn't want to spend any more time or money
>rebuilding his transmission (he was racing).
>
>5)  This is my daily driver so the AUTO is kinda nice.
>
>6)  The AWD would be nice for autocrossing but my wife would shoot me if I
>took off for a
>    weekend and spent $300+ without her.
>
>8)  Despite FWD my car handles pretty well even though my suspension has
>130K on it.
>
>9)  I love the way my car looks and drives I just don't wanna get smoked by
>every high school
>    punk with a mustang or civic.
>
>10) There are plenty of 300hp 3000GT TTs out there but how many 300hp NAs?
>
>Anyway, I'm saving for my tranny rebuild now.  If I get the cash after that
>I plan on getting a GTECH to monitor and post each upgrade/tweak I perform.
>My only fear is that I'll drop 5K in the next few years, and end up with a
>car that's still in high 14s (new Mustang GTs run 14 flat so my goal is
high
>13's).
>
> Michael - 91 3000GT SL AUTO
>(the few, the proud, the slow)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:36:31 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Opinion about NA exhausts - Comments?...

Backpressure is not the right term.  You need to maintain or increase
exhaust velocity, done by using the right diameter piping to match flow out
of the cylinders.

Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: Team3S <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 12:54 AM
Subject: Team3S: Opinion about NA exhausts - Comments?...

>Note:  As I mentioned in another post, Drew Henson and GF Jamie are the 2
>current 'fastest' NA owners - times they made with only a K&N - no NOS,
>gutted cat and no muffler.  They don't have a computer and are not list
>members, but he and I were discussing aftermarket exhausts.  He expects he
>can break 14sec with a custom exhaust and drag radials.  What he says makes
>a whole lot of sense, IMO...  Especially since he's among the few owners
who
>I've ever spoken to who knows the proper (mid-RPM) way to launch on street
>tires.  I pointed out to him that what we *know*(?) from the list is that
>our exhausts require a certain tuned backpressure for good low-end
>acceleration.  Here are his recent comments for discussion...>>>
>
>-------------------------
>DH:  About the n/a needing backpressure... unless someone shows me dyno
>sheets proving this fact, I'll continue to disagree.  Even low tech,
>inefficient small block chevy engines run better through open headers than
a
>full exhaust, and that rule certainly applies to our cars with more
>effecient exhaust valves, high lift/high duration cams, and a high-peaking
>powerband.  Our cars' HP peak is at 6K rpm, and the torque peak is at 4500.
>If you launch at 3K on street tires, the car is only in the lower rpms for
a
>second, and the rest of the way down the track you never drop out of the
>upper rpms.  Our car ran a 14.946 all stock, and ran a 14.710 with a K&N
and
>the factory muffler removed/cat gutted.  The car also chirps 3rd gear since
>removing the muffler, and our trap speeds jumped from 90 to 94.
>
>I'm not wasting money on an aftermarket exhaust.  I'd rather fabricate my
>own, and know exactly what diameter pipe, bend quality, and muffler
>placement I have under the car.  Muffler placement is key on a n/a engine.
>You install an unrestricted straight pipe, paint it with cheap paint, and
>run the car for a few minutes.  Wherever the paint stops burning off is
>where you install the muffler.  If the paint burns off
>all the way back, you need a larger pipe, and if it stops burning off too
>close to the engine, you can use a smaller diameter.  The idea is to allow
>the exhaust to take its natural course at full velocity, then when
>the velocity slows, install the muffler.
>---------------------
>
>Your comments, please...
>
>Best,
>
>Forrest

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:14:20 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Washer in my #3 cylinder?

2 possible ways to get it out (having dropped many small parts into
the deep recesses over the years)

1.  magnet - if the part you dropped is ferro magnetic there is a
magnetic retriever you can get at probably any auto parts store.
2.  plumbers retriever - costs about $5 at Home Depot it's about a
yard long with a spring loaded button at one end and claws on the other.
You push the putton to open the claws, release it to clamp down.  It is
small enough to fit through the spark plug port and flexible so you can move
it around. 
[Willis, Charles E.] 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:20:31 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Major Engine Troubles

maybe left a hose disconnected?  sounds like a horrendous vacuum leak.  this
is the way the car behaves when the y-pipe blows off.  check all the tubes
on the intake side.

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: cody [SMTP:overclck@starband.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 7:52 PM
> To: 'Team3S'; Starnet
> Subject: Team3S: Major Engine Troubles
>
> 'OK, here it goes...

> Did the 60K service...  Bought new ECU...

> Car will not idle now, but it will rev all the way to redline and sounds
> healthy doing it... 

> I checked - no error codes in the ECU... 

> It sounds like it is backfiring through the intake, but I can't be for
> sure...

> I double and triple checked the valve timing and the crank pulley too...
> Everything lines up perfectly...

> Basically, it runs fine at high RPM, but at low RPM, sometimes it won't
> even accelerate the engine (no load), and just dies, but most of the time,
> you press the gas, and it accelerates healthily...

> Any ideas?

> -Cody

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:32:44 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

Okay, wizards, what sounds like a belt squeaking on the drivers side of the
engine compartment when the engine is cold, but gets much better or
disappears when the car warms to operating temperature, on a '93 VR4 with
92000 miles that had (supposedly) the water pump replaced with the 60K
maintenance.  No temperature excusions, no oil pressure oddities, normal
engine performance.  Oil and fluid levels normal.  Belts appear to be in
good condition and tight.  No coolant leaks.  Rear seals changed with recent
clutch replacement.  No, the noise started before I replaced the clutch.

I give up - take your chances before I take it in to the dealer to pay him
$65 to guess how much I can afford to pay!

Chuck

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:42:48 -0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

>I give up - take your chances before I take it in to the dealer to pay him
>$65 to guess how much I can afford to pay!
>
I have a similar squeaking on my vr-4. However it doesn't go away when
the car is warm. It started soon after I replaced all the gaskets on my
downpipe / precats. The belts look fine. Maybe a small exhaust leak past
a gasket causing the squeaks/whistles?
 
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:41:48 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

Chuck, 10:1 it is you timing belt tensioner... I had this problem on my 93,
just remove the tensioner soak it in marvel mystery oil then dry off the
pulley section itself and reinstall. No more squeaking :)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E. [SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 9:33 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; '3sracers@speedtoys.com'
> Subject: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
>
> Okay, wizards, what sounds like a belt squeaking on the drivers side of
> the
> engine compartment when the engine is cold, but gets much better or
> disappears when the car warms to operating temperature, on a '93 VR4 with
> 92000 miles that had (supposedly) the water pump replaced with the 60K
> maintenance.  No temperature excusions, no oil pressure oddities, normal
> engine performance.  Oil and fluid levels normal.  Belts appear to be in
> good condition and tight.  No coolant leaks.  Rear seals changed with
> recent
> clutch replacement.  No, the noise started before I replaced the clutch.
>
> I give up - take your chances before I take it in to the dealer to pay him
> $65 to guess how much I can afford to pay!
>
> Chuck

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 08:50:47 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

Isn't getting to the tensioner pretty much equivalent to replacing the
timing belt? (I'm thinking of my old GSX)  Why wouldn't I just replace the
tensioner if I removed it?  Maybe I can get a line in there and lubricate it
without taking it off ... 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell [SMTP:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 8:42 AM
> To: 'Willis, Charles E.'; 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
>
> Chuck, 10:1 it is you timing belt tensioner... I had this problem on my
> 93,
> just remove the tensioner soak it in marvel mystery oil then dry off the
> pulley section itself and reinstall. No more squeaking :)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 06:29:49 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

Any change when the A/C comes on --- it might be the A/C clutch.

        Jim Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Willis, Charles E. <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 6:32 AM
Subject: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

> Okay, wizards, what sounds like a belt squeaking on the drivers side of the
> engine compartment when the engine is cold, but gets much better or
> disappears when the car warms to operating temperature, on a '93 VR4 with
> 92000 miles that had (supposedly) the water pump replaced with the 60K
> maintenance.  No temperature excusions, no oil pressure oddities, normal
> engine performance.  Oil and fluid levels normal.  Belts appear to be in
> good condition and tight.  No coolant leaks.  Rear seals changed with recent
> clutch replacement.  No, the noise started before I replaced the clutch.
>
> I give up - take your chances before I take it in to the dealer to pay him
> $65 to guess how much I can afford to pay!
>
> Chuck

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:51:33 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

Chuck if your are going to go about it that way then use WD-40, I do not
believe Marvel comes in a compressed spray can.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E. [SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 9:51 AM
> To: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
>
> Isn't getting to the tensioner pretty much equivalent to replacing the
> timing belt? (I'm thinking of my old GSX)  Why wouldn't I just replace the
> tensioner if I removed it?  Maybe I can get a line in there and lubricate
> it
> without taking it off ...

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 06:58:48 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Team3S: Beeping under full boost

Here's an interesting problem. When under full boost, there is a beeping
sound coming from inside the dash somewhere. It sounds like the door
buzzer, but not quite as loud. I disconnected the buzzer and it still makes
the noise, so it's not that. I'm thinking it's an air leak, but i'm not
aware of any air lines coming into the passenger compartment, except to the
clutch booster, which should be restricted under boost anyway.

Any ideas? It's a 92 VR-4.....bone stock

Wayne

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:28:12 EDT
From: DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

>  Chuck if your are going to go about it that way then use WD-40, I do not
>  believe Marvel comes in a compressed spray can.

Won't WD-40 harm the timing belt?
just a thought...

Paul Butkiewicz
Diablo Enterprises
Norwood, MA  02062-4012
Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/
http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:47:14 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Beeping under full boost

> Here's an interesting problem. When under full boost,
> there is a beeping sound coming from inside the dash
> somewhere. It sounds like the door buzzer, but not
> quite as loud.

I pressurized my intake with an air compressor and found my noise like that
was coming from the clutch booster (even though that isn't supposed to
happen with the 1-way check valve in the line).  I dunno...  Easiest way to
find it is to make a pressure tester and pump it up to 15 psi and look for
leaks.  You'll probably find others somewhere as well which will make doing
it even more worthwhile.

Just cobble together some Home Depot PVC to make the tester...

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:56:09 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

I do not believe so...  last time I checked its "ingredients" it had a
couple of the same item as belt dressing  FWIW 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com [SMTP:DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 10:28 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
>
> >  Chuck if your are going to go about it that way then use WD-40, I do
> not
> >  believe Marvel comes in a compressed spray can.
>
> Won't WD-40 harm the timing belt?
> just a thought...
>
> Paul Butkiewicz
> Diablo Enterprises
> Norwood, MA  02062-4012
> Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
> http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/
> http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 11:03:46 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

Ummm.. isn't it true that, if you remove the tensioner, you need to replace it?
I believe that is true..

Try this first:
Start the car, take a can of silicone spray, and when the noise starts, try
spraying the belts and the pulleys one at a time to see if it is them.  I found
that my belt was a squeak too loose, and later that the one pulley was starting
to go using this method.  Be sparing with the spray, it won't take much.  Also,
be sure to spray each part exclusively!

Best of luck
Ken

"Willis, Charles E." wrote:

> Okay, wizards, what sounds like a belt squeaking on the drivers side of the
> engine compartment when the engine is cold, but gets much better or
> disappears when the car warms to operating temperature, on a '93 VR4 with
> 92000 miles that had (supposedly) the water pump replaced with the 60K
> maintenance.  No temperature excusions, no oil pressure oddities, normal
> engine performance.  Oil and fluid levels normal.  Belts appear to be in
> good condition and tight.  No coolant leaks.  Rear seals changed with recent
> clutch replacement.  No, the noise started before I replaced the clutch.
>
> I give up - take your chances before I take it in to the dealer to pay him
> $65 to guess how much I can afford to pay!
>
> Chuck
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

- --
Ken Stanton
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
'91 Pearl White R/T TwinTurbo
Super Snoopy - Plates 007KEN
FIPK, HKS Exhaust, APEXi AVC-R, Improved Precats
Bozzspeed Lightweight Flywheel, RPS Stage II
6-speed transmission  (5-6 speed conversion)
Aiwa MP3 Stereo

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:32:11 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

Good question! - no change in noise other than usual a/c engagement.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Berry [SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 8:30 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; 3sracers@speedtoys.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
>
> Any change when the A/C comes on --- it might be the A/C clutch.
>
>         Jim Berry
> ===============================================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Willis, Charles E. <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
> To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <3sracers@speedtoys.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 6:32 AM
> Subject: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
>
>
> > Okay, wizards, what sounds like a belt squeaking on the drivers side of
> the
> > engine compartment when the engine is cold, but gets much better or
> > disappears when the car warms to operating temperature, on a '93 VR4
> with
> > 92000 miles that had (supposedly) the water pump replaced with the 60K
> > maintenance.  No temperature excusions, no oil pressure oddities, normal
> > engine performance.  Oil and fluid levels normal.  Belts appear to be in
> > good condition and tight.  No coolant leaks.  Rear seals changed with
> recent
> > clutch replacement.  No, the noise started before I replaced the clutch.
> >
> > I give up - take your chances before I take it in to the dealer to pay
> him
> > $65 to guess how much I can afford to pay!
> >
> > Chuck

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:34:48 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Beeping under full boost

BOV chatter?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wayne [SMTP:whietala@prodigy.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 8:59 AM
> To: Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st
> Subject: Team3S: Beeping under full boost
>
> Here's an interesting problem. When under full boost, there is a beeping
> sound coming from inside the dash somewhere. It sounds like the door
> buzzer, but not quite as loud. I disconnected the buzzer and it still
> makes
> the noise, so it's not that. I'm thinking it's an air leak, but i'm not
> aware of any air lines coming into the passenger compartment, except to
> the
> clutch booster, which should be restricted under boost anyway.
>
> Any ideas? It's a 92 VR-4.....bone stock
>
> Wayne

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:35:41 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

I think I could follow up the WD40 with a healthy spray of belt dressing ...

> -----Original Message-----
> From: DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com [SMTP:DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 9:28 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day
>
> >  Chuck if your are going to go about it that way then use WD-40, I do
> not
> >  believe Marvel comes in a compressed spray can.
>
> Won't WD-40 harm the timing belt?
> just a thought...
>
> Paul Butkiewicz
> Diablo Enterprises
> Norwood, MA  02062-4012
> Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
> http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/
> http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:29:27 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: Team3S: Major Engine Trouble Update

I have checked the Crank Angle Sensor, and it is working.  I don't care
about the IAC or anything of that sorts, cause it won't run correctly
off idle even.  I can worry about that later.  I double checked, still
no ECU error codes.  I pulled all the spark plugs and they are BLACK.
Black means rich, so I am thinking there may have been some bad gas in
the tank that wasn't combusting properly (or at all).  I am in the
process of going to the mainland (by ferry, geez that takes forever) to
purchase new spark plugs.  Can I use the cheapie $1 a piece spark plugs
until I figured this thing out?  If so, anyone have any recommendations
on which cheap ones?  I figured some cheap, pure copper plugs would
work.  Also - one other question - can you adjust the crank angle
sensor, and if so, can you do it without removing the alternator and A/C
belt?

- -Cody   

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:50:31 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Major Engine Trouble Update

did you take out some gas and look at it?  If it has water in it, it looks
like a mocha frappacino.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: cody [SMTP:overclck@starband.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 10:29 AM
> To: Team3S; 'Starnet'
> Subject: Team3S: Major Engine Trouble Update
>
> I have checked the Crank Angle Sensor, and it is working.  I don't care
> about the IAC or anything of that sorts, cause it won't run correctly
> off idle even.  I can worry about that later.  I double checked, still
> no ECU error codes.  I pulled all the spark plugs and they are BLACK.
> Black means rich, so I am thinking there may have been some bad gas in
> the tank that wasn't combusting properly (or at all).  I am in the
> process of going to the mainland (by ferry, geez that takes forever) to
> purchase new spark plugs.  Can I use the cheapie $1 a piece spark plugs
> until I figured this thing out?  If so, anyone have any recommendations
> on which cheap ones?  I figured some cheap, pure copper plugs would
> work.  Also - one other question - can you adjust the crank angle
> sensor, and if so, can you do it without removing the alternator and A/C
> belt?
>
> -Cody   

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:10:35 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Major Engine Troubles

Cody,

> I have it right now:  top pair of wires goes to the drivers side spark
> plugs, middle pair of wires goes to the center plugs, and the bottom
> pair of wires goes to the passenger side plugs...

That sounds like your problem.  The coil packs are numbered (from the rear
or top, toward the front of the car) 1, 4, 2, 5, 3, 6.  Each pair of
cylinders fire at the same time, one on the tail end of the compression
stroke(needed), and one on the tail-end of the exhaust stroke(wasted).  It
sounds like you have them connected 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.  That would cause
significant issues.

As John said, the cylinders are numbered with all the even-numbered
cylinders in the rear bank and the odd numbered ones on the front bank.
Lower numbers are on the driver's side (1 and 2) and high numbers are on the
passenger's side (5 and 6).  See my webpage for more details:

http://www.speedtoys.com/~egross/3000GT/SparkPlugs/PlugChange.html

You can clearly see the front bank wire routing in the pictures.  Note that
I have one black wire (#1) and the rest are red in the pictures.

- --Erik
'95 VR-4
had a '95 base model

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:05:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Beeping under full boost

Examples of cheap and easy intake pressure testers:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius3/j3-2-pressuretester.htm

Note that to test the by-pass valve you will have to disconnect the
BPV from the intake hose (the one the MAS connects to) and plug the
opening in the intake hose. Then you will have to route the plenum
hose from the plenum and to the Y-pipe (where the boost reference
hose attaches) and plug the opening on the plenum. This should create
equal pressure on both sides of the BPV valve and it theoretically
shouldn't open until you supply more pressure than the spring can
handle. I haven't actually tried this yet - will soon. Pressurizing
the intake with the BPV in its normal configuration just pressurizes
all sides of it.

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: "'Wayne'" <whietala@prodigy.net>; <Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 8:47 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Beeping under full boost


> Here's an interesting problem. When under full boost,
> there is a beeping sound coming from inside the dash
> somewhere. It sounds like the door buzzer, but not
> quite as loud.

I pressurized my intake with an air compressor and found my noise
like that was coming from the clutch booster (even though that isn't
supposed to happen with the 1-way check valve in the line).  I
dunno...  Easiest way to find it is to make a pressure tester and
pump it up to 15 psi and look for leaks.  You'll probably find others
somewhere as well which will make doing it even more worthwhile.

Just cobble together some Home Depot PVC to make the tester...

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 11:05:43 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

> I think I could follow up the WD40 with a healthy spray
> of belt dressing ...

I'm pretty sure you aren't supposed to get anything on the timing belt at
all.  Its so important a piece that I'd try to keep it as clean as possible
and not put any goop on it.  There are also optical sensors (cam angle,
crank angle) in the timing belt area and you don't want goop flying off the
belt and onto the sensors.  At least on my year car the sensors aren't
sealed against dirt getting onto the optical senders/receivers since it
should be pretty much spotless under the timing covers.

Probably wouldn't make a difference, but I'm not going to risk it on my car.
;-)

The tensioner pulley uses a sealed bearing - so just hitting it with WD40
probably isn't going to solve the problem.  The bearing should be repacked -
and its easier (and more of a long-term fix) to just replace the tensioner
pulley (if that's actually the source of the noise).

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:54:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: FW: October Quickening 2001 pictures (fwd)

Forwarded for Darren

- ---
Geoff Mohler

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 02:24:09 -0400
From: Darren Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: FW: October Quickening 2001 pictures

Here is what did not send to Team3S.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 06:10
 
Subject: October Quickening 2001 pictures

Well you asked for it.

This is to anyone who is listed as "Who Is Coming" for the Cape Cod
Gathering.  If you did not make it then browse these for what you
missed.
If you did make it then take a look at what I captured.  Certainly not
everything but a good bit of the Fall colors through PA and CT that many
of
you did not get to see but I'll wait for pictures from the other shutter
bugs before we have a complete set of shots from around the area.

The pictures of signs are to help me remember where the pictures are
from so
don't worry about that right now.  These are the unprocessed pictures
(uncropped, unpainted, unedited) and they have no description but since
most
people were at the events (Poker Run, Car Show, F1 Boston, etc.) they do
not
need much explaining.  I'll get it organized better later but everyone
wanted to see them as soon as possible for many of them.

Enjoy and let me know if you want the full-size picture of anything and
I'll
throw them on a site for you to download (about 500-1,000 kb for the
full-size pictures).

(this should be the link -- if not then let me know -- the pages and
pictures have just started uploading to the site so it will be a bunch
of
minutes before they are all copied so in case you are awake at this time
of
day just be patient)

www.speedracer.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/events/CapeCod2001/index.h
tm

It was great meeting you new folks (Lou, Hal), matching some faces with
the
userids (Paul, Greg C.), and seeing the familiar faces again.  We had a
great time and can't wait to return next year.  Thanks again Eric and
Melissa for putting on a great gathering.

- --Flash! (and Flashette)
1995 Black VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 09:55:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: FW: October Quickening 2001 pictures (fwd)

Forwarded for Darren

Geoff Mohler

- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 06:21
 
Subject: Re: October Quickening 2001 pictures

To help you navigate where to start looking in the pictures -- here is a
quick rundown of our trip.

Left Pittsburgh, PA
Headed through middle PA and out I-80.
Up through Bushkill Falls, PA for the pictures of the ducks on the pond.
Just across the NY border are the night shots with fun on long exposure
times.
CT gave a ton of good pictures with lots of them being taken at a farm
that
I did not want to leave (it is the one with the bull of large horns).
On through RI.
Into the Bed & Breakfast (we passed this on the Poker Run by the way).
Then the Poker Run.
Then the Car Show.
Then the Eric Bowden Award Show.
Then back to the Big Dipper for the Jeff food run and a peek at a nice
motorcycle.
Then on to F1 Boston.
Back down to Foxwoods (casino) in CT on Sunday.
Sherwood's for excellent ribs Sunday night.
Back down a similar path in PA shooting the Stealths/3000GTs I saw along
the
way.
Another stop at a must-see diner (Jeff you will like the before and
after
shots here)
Through our alma mater of Penn State University and a photo op (self
taken)
of the mascot.

I think that is it for now.  Just thought I would clarify what some of
the
400 pictures are.

- --Flash!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 12:46:50 EDT
From: NETM1NDER@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Re: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Report

Eric. If you have a chance can you take a picture of you and the strut tower
brace installed on you car for my album?

     Thanks!

  Chris   95VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 13:15:09 -0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

Chuck,

Make sure that the lower timing belt cover isn't making contact with the
power steering pulley or belt.  If not that then it may be one of the other
idler pulleys.

Good luck,
Michael

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 13:34:47 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available

Installation Page and Pictures are now available on my website:

http://www.speedtoys.com/~egross/3000GT/FrontStrutTowerBar/FrontStrutTowerBa
r.html

(gotta be all one line if it gets chopped off)

Most pictures are "clickable" for larger images.

Enjoy,
- --Erik
'95 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 13:59:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available

Erik,

Your car is a '95 VR4 and the strut tower brace does not interfere
with the hood closing. I have looked carefully next to my strut
towers as I close the hood, and it looks to me that the supports
pieces of my '92 TT hood come to rest far below where the bar would
attach, meaning the bar would not let the hood close. Have you or
anyone on this list mounted one of these bars on a '91-'93 TT/VR4?
Does the hood close OK?

Thanks,

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: <NETM1NDER@aol.com>; <stealth@starnet.net>;
<team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <stealth@stls.verio.net>;
<3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <nws3@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 2:34 PM
Subject: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 23:04:25 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Team3S: OT : 2nd gen 3000GT in Music Video

"Jeanette Biedermann" just finished her Video for the new single "How Itīs
Got To Be" where she drives a silver C5 through Berlin (capital of Germany)
and at a light a red 2nd gen 3k stops aside of her. The guy in there looks
over and she starts dreaming of a road race through Berlin with those two
cars. Just saw the making of and it's a nice shot including u-turns ! Hope
to find the video online sometimes :-)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 14:12:13 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available

> Have you or anyone on this list mounted one of these
> bars on a '91-'93 TT/VR4? Does the hood close OK?

It fits fine on my car, but I haven't tried it on a '91-'93 car, but maybe
Chris has... Chris?  What about the others who initially ordered braces?
There were a bunch of us...

- --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 23:08:51 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available

The strut tower brace fits both generations.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

> Your car is a '95 VR4 and the strut tower brace does not interfere
> with the hood closing. I have looked carefully next to my strut
> towers as I close the hood, and it looks to me that the supports
> pieces of my '92 TT hood come to rest far below where the bar would

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 17:16:26 EDT
From: NETM1NDER@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available

Hi this is Chris. Yes, it does fit, I tried it on a 92SL with no problems.

   Chris   95VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 15:21:07 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available

Jeff,

Peggy Schafale in Colorado Springs has purchased one for her '91
Stealth.
You can take a look at hers once it is installed.

Jim

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 2:59 PM
To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available

Erik,

Your car is a '95 VR4 and the strut tower brace does not interfere
with the hood closing. I have looked carefully next to my strut
towers as I close the hood, and it looks to me that the supports
pieces of my '92 TT hood come to rest far below where the bar would
attach, meaning the bar would not let the hood close. Have you or
anyone on this list mounted one of these bars on a '91-'93 TT/VR4?
Does the hood close OK?

Thanks,

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: <NETM1NDER@aol.com>; <stealth@starnet.net>;
<team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <stealth@stls.verio.net>;
<3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <nws3@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 2:34 PM
Subject: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 17:24:03 EDT
From: NETM1NDER@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Pictures Available

Yes, the hood closes without touching the strut tower brace, it looks close
but I did check it out & it fits ALL the years from 91 to 99. The inner
structure is the same.

   Chris   95VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 21:13:36 -0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

I am going to guess the accessory belt tensioner.

Rich
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 8:32 AM
Subject: Team3S: VR4 trivia noise of the day

> Okay, wizards, what sounds like a belt squeaking on the drivers side of
the
> engine compartment when the engine is cold, but gets much better or
> disappears when the car warms to operating temperature, on a '93 VR4 with
> 92000 miles that had (supposedly) the water pump replaced with the 60K
> maintenance.  No temperature excusions, no oil pressure oddities, normal
> engine performance.  Oil and fluid levels normal.  Belts appear to be in
> good condition and tight.  No coolant leaks.  Rear seals changed with
recent
> clutch replacement.  No, the noise started before I replaced the clutch.
>
> I give up - take your chances before I take it in to the dealer to pay him
> $65 to guess how much I can afford to pay!
>
> Chuck

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #648
***************************************