Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 23:14:49
-0500
From: "Nemisis" <
nemisis@vci.net>
Subject: Team3S: Weight
of Spyder vs. Coupe
Hey Everyone,
I know this is covered in the
FAQ but I keep getting conflicting
information. The main reason im asking
this is because the first thing I get
from people when I say I have a spyder
is "Heavy" and I'm really trying to
figure out just what the diffrence in
weight is. According to the FAQ the
Stock 95' VR-4 has a curb weight of
3,781lbs vs 3,803 for that of a 95' VR-4
Spyder. So if these numbers
are true.. where does everyone get the argument
on a spyders being 300lbs
heavier? Any clarification would be appreciated..
God
Bless,
Jon
95' VR-4 Spyder
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 00:07:25
-0500
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Weight of Spyder vs. Coupe
I'm not 100% sure how they come up
with their numbers. My car was 4025lbs
on the scale in Ennis, TX (Texas
Motorplex) with a little over half a tank
of gas without me in
it.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'01 Chevrolet Silverado HD
Duramax
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Nemisis" <
nemisis@vci.net>
To: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, October 15, 2001 11:14 PM
Subject: Team3S: Weight of Spyder vs.
Coupe
> Hey Everyone,
>
> I know this is covered in
the FAQ but I keep getting conflicting
> information. The main reason im
asking this is because the first thing I
get
> from people when I say I
have a spyder is "Heavy" and I'm really trying to
> figure out just what
the diffrence in weight is. According to the FAQ the
> Stock 95' VR-4 has
a curb weight of 3,781lbs vs 3,803 for that of a 95'
VR-4
>
Spyder. So if these numbers are true.. where does everyone get
the
argument
> on a spyders being 300lbs heavier? Any clarification
would be
appreciated..
>
> God Bless,
>
> Jon
>
95' VR-4 Spyder
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 22:16:58
-0700
From: Rich <
rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: Short Notice For 60k Clinic - Vancouver (PDX)
Area
All:
I am doing a 60k for another list member this weekend
(10/20) if
anyone is interested in watching/learning. We were going to
give
more notice to the group, but SNAFU's in coordinating parts only
let
us get firm on the date earlier today.
Please reply directly to me OFF
THE LIST if you are interested
in showing up so I can give
directions.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 05:35:17
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: Finished website. Page for good buys on mods
Hello everyone.
I finally got the finishing touches done on the website.
Under the Favorites
tab I have added a kind of price watch on 3S related
mods. The list is short
so far, but I would like it to grow for
everyone's benefit. If you can
contribute to the search for good deals,
please let me know :)
Sorry
for the OT post.
Thanks!
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales
Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 08:43:04
-0400
From: "Lorne Silkes" <
vr4@cwia.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Weight
of Spyder vs. Coupe
Friday night at the Quickening, my 94 VR4 with 3/4
tank of gas, nothing
removed and with probably 50 lbs of luggage
wieghed
in at 4050 with me in the car (I'm about 190), so the Spyders are
about maybe
250 lbs heaviers or so.
Lorne
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Jeff" <
spydervr4@home.com>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 16, 2001 1:07 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Weight of Spyder vs.
Coupe
> I'm not 100% sure how they come up with their numbers.
My car was 4025lbs
> on the scale in Ennis, TX (Texas Motorplex) with a
little over half a tank
> of gas without me in it.
>
>
jeff
> '95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
> '01 Chevrolet Silverado HD
Duramax
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nemisis"
<
nemisis@vci.net>
> To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 11:14 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Weight of
Spyder vs. Coupe
>
> > Hey Everyone,
> >
> > I
know this is covered in the FAQ but I keep getting conflicting
> >
information. The main reason im asking this is because the first thing I
>
get
> > from people when I say I have a spyder is "Heavy" and I'm
really trying
to
> > figure out just what the diffrence in weight
is. According to the FAQ
the
> > Stock 95' VR-4 has a curb weight of
3,781lbs vs 3,803 for that of a 95'
> VR-4
> > Spyder. So
if these numbers are true.. where does everyone get the
> argument
>
> on a spyders being 300lbs heavier? Any clarification would be
>
appreciated..
> >
> > God Bless,
> >
> >
Jon
> > 95' VR-4 Spyder
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 08:23:21
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Insurance
>Amazingly enough, my insurance dropped 30% when
I left Tulsa, for San
>Jose, CA.
That's probably because nobody
actually lives in San Jose. They all live
over the mountain out in the
valley, and commute 100 miles per day to get
to work. After 5 pm, San Joes
(as we say in Iowa) is a ghost town, so you
can't get into an accident with
anybody.
At least that's what a cabbie told me when I asked where all
the houses
were amongst the strip malls and high rises. "Sheeet, senor,
nobody can
afford to live here," he said.
Rich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 10:53:16
-0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: TMO Datalogger for Sale?
I think I saw a post here a few days ago
about a TMO Datalogger system for
sale. If you are here, please e-mail
me.
Thanks.
Jeff W.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 09:58:36
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Strut tower bar, front - rear
Brett,
Chris is working on
that as we speak.
Glad you hare happy with the front strut tower
brace.
All's well that ends well.
Jim
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Brett Hill [mailto:bhill2@mindspring.com]
Sent:
Thursday, October 11, 2001 7:47 AM
To:
NETM1NDER@aol.comSubject: RE: Strut
tower bar, front
Dude, I just got my bar in yesterday. I just about
had a joy-gasim the
thing is absolutely beautiful. I am really sorry
that I ever doubted you,
damn it looks good. Though this beauty has
arisen another question. Can
you make a rear strut tower bar to match
the beautiful piece that I have
under the hood? If so how much would it
be? Depends on how much as to when
I could afford one. Once again
- you do hella good work.
Brett Hill
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 11:59:20
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Strut tower bar, front - rear
I am extremely
interested in how this changes the way your car handles,
Brett.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Floyd, Jim
[SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 10:59
AM
> To:
'bhill2@mindspring.com'> Cc:
'Chris Thorne';
'Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st';
>
'3sracers@speedtoys.com';
'stealth@starnet.net';
'stealth@stls.verio.net'>
Subject: 3S-Racers: Strut tower bar, front - rear
>
>
Brett,
>
> Chris is working on that as we speak.
> Glad you
hare happy with the front strut tower brace.
>
> All's well that
ends well.
>
> Jim
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Brett Hill [mailto:bhill2@mindspring.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 7:47 AM
> To:
NETM1NDER@aol.com> Subject: RE: Strut
tower bar, front
>
>
> Dude, I just got my bar in
yesterday. I just about had a joy-gasim the
> thing is absolutely
beautiful. I am really sorry that I ever doubted you,
> damn it
looks good. Though this beauty has arisen another question.
Can
> you make a rear strut tower bar to match the beautiful piece that I
have
> under the hood? If so how much would it be? Depends on
how much as to
> when
> I could afford one. Once again - you
do hella good work.
>
> Brett Hill
>
> --
> To
subscribe: Email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'subscribe
> Email To unsub: Email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'unsubscribe
> 3sracers'
> "Ban low performance drivers, not high
performance cars."
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 09:54:50
-0700
From: Michael Crisfield <
mcrisfield@ftmcdowell.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
All -
I've been
lurking on this list for awhile and thanks, I have learned
quite a bit about
the turbo models (I own a 91 3000GT SL AUTO). One thing I
hear a lot of
is (not just on this list), don't tune an NA..just buy a TT.
Here are my top
ten reasons for not selling my NA and buying a TT.
1) I've rebuilt
the motor (along with lost of other misc. replacements) and
will be
rebuilding the tranny with shift kit and trans cooler (recommended
by DSM
racer) by next year. If I sell I'm not going to get out what I put
in -
not even close.
2) Dynamic racing claims that 5 staged upgrades
(for around $5K), will get
my car to 300hp without NOS (same as my model year
TT), 370 hp with NOS.
3) The difference in MY insurance will be
about $40 a month if I buy a TT
($480 a year).
4) I haven't
heard anything good about TT trannys. I've heard of waiting
lists and
estimates of $4000 just for parts. One guy swore off 3000GTs
for
Eclipses because he claimed he didn't want to spend any more time or
money
rebuilding his transmission (he was racing).
5) This is my
daily driver so the AUTO is kinda nice.
6) The AWD would be nice
for autocrossing but my wife would shoot me if I
took off for
a
weekend and spent $300+ without her.
8)
Despite FWD my car handles pretty well even though my suspension has
130K on
it.
9) I love the way my car looks and drives I just don't wanna
get smoked by
every high school
punk with a mustang or
civic.
10) There are plenty of 300hp 3000GT TTs out there but how many
300hp NAs?
Anyway, I'm saving for my tranny rebuild now. If I get
the cash after that
I plan on getting a GTECH to monitor and post each
upgrade/tweak I perform.
My only fear is that I'll drop 5K in the next few
years, and end up with a
car that's still in high 14s (new Mustang GTs run 14
flat so my goal is high
13's).
Michael - 91 3000GT SL AUTO
(the
few, the proud, the slow)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Zobel,
Kurt [mailto:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 10:35
AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
Yes, if the car is older than 3-4
years, selling it and buying the turbo is
the way to go.
But it is fun to
tinker with the NT while you have it.
The weight penalty is definitely a
factor on the track, but sort of evens
out with the AWD and better brakes.
The insurance is not much of an issue, from quite a few prior posts
I've
seen.
Virtually no difference in insurance or extended warranty
coverage.
Regards,
Kurt 96 NT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jim Berry [mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Friday,
October 12, 2001 6:34 PM
To: Alex Pedenko;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
on the plus side --- the NA is
several hundred pounds lighter and the
insurance has to be considerably
less.
Jim
Berry
===========================
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Alex Pedenko <
apedenko@home.com>
>
JMHO,
>
> Isn't it cheaper (and better in
the long run) to take the money from
> those mods, plus sell the NA car,
and buy a vr4? I mean 125 + the stock
216
> (?) puts you just above the
320 mark of a stock vr4/rt tt? Plus aren't
there
> more mods available
for the tt cars? Plus set aside $500, get a Blitz DSBC
> and put yerself
up past the 350 mark...
>
> Don't mean to
offend anybody, just a thought.
>
> Alex
>
> '95
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 10:57:56
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
>> 2) Dynamic racing
claims that 5 staged upgrades
>> (for around $5K), will get my car to
300hp without
>> NOS (same as my model year TT), 370 hp with
NOS.
With all due respect to Matt at DR, to get 300 HP out of your
NA
engine will require the same airflow that the TT has. Please
explain
how this is possible without forced induction or nitrous (and
without
revving to 9,000 RPM).
Oh .... don't mod a 3S NA ...
just buy a TT/VR4. :)
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Michael Crisfield" <
mcrisfield@ftmcdowell.org>
To:
"Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 16, 2001 10:54 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on
N/A
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 11:19:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
Timing, compression, port
work..its not that hard, just pricey.
bring it up to 12:1 or so
compression with fuel and timing control, watch
it make some ugly
power.
Thats how the N/A MK3 Supra people do it relatively
easy.
On Tue, 16 Oct 2001, Jeff Lucius wrote:
> >> 2)
Dynamic racing claims that 5 staged upgrades
> >> (for around $5K),
will get my car to 300hp without
> >> NOS (same as my model year
TT), 370 hp with NOS.
>
> With all due respect to Matt at DR, to
get 300 HP out of your NA
> engine will require the same airflow that the
TT has. Please explain
> how this is possible without forced induction or
nitrous (and without
> revving to 9,000 RPM).
>
> Oh
.... don't mod a 3S NA ... just buy a TT/VR4. :)
>
> Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 11:37:46
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
Uh, yeah. Sure makes me feel silly
buying 15G turbos, when all I had
to do was *bypass* my turbos and put
high-compression pistons in to
get 300 HP. :) NOT.
Still wondering how
you get more air into the engine. Higher CR only
marginally increases HP
output - at the penalty of increased chances
for detonation.
Increasing the CR increases the thermal efficiency of an engine.
A
change from 10:1 to 12:1 increases output by 5% (see Michael
Ferrara's
“Boost vs. compression, part 1”, Turbo and High-Tech
Performance, January
1999 for the equation). That means the 222 HP
DOHC could increase to 233 HP.
So where do the other 67 ponies come
from? Fuel and timing won't make up for
the lack of air.
Would someone from our group with a 300 HP 6G72 NA (no
turbo or
nitrous) please step forward and tell us how you did it?
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Cc:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 16, 2001 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on
N/A
Timing, compression, port work..its not that hard, just
pricey.
bring it up to 12:1 or so compression with fuel and timing
control,
watch it make some ugly power.
Thats how the N/A MK3 Supra
people do it relatively easy.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 12:08:00
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
Its very possible..if you spend
money in the right places.
Porting/flow work, ignition control (good
power to be found there), fuel
control, and compression.
On Tue, 16
Oct 2001, Jeff Lucius wrote:
> Uh, yeah. Sure makes me feel silly
buying 15G turbos, when all I had
> to do was *bypass* my turbos and put
high-compression pistons in to
> get 300 HP. :) NOT.
>
>
Still wondering how you get more air into the engine. Higher CR only
>
marginally increases HP output - at the penalty of increased chances
> for
detonation.
>
> Increasing the CR increases the thermal efficiency
of an engine. A
> change from 10:1 to 12:1 increases output by 5% (see
Michael
> Ferrara's “Boost vs. compression, part 1”, Turbo and
High-Tech
> Performance, January 1999 for the equation). That means the
222 HP
> DOHC could increase to 233 HP. So where do the other 67 ponies
come
> from? Fuel and timing won't make up for the lack of air.
>
> Would someone from our group with a 300 HP 6G72 NA (no turbo or
>
nitrous) please step forward and tell us how you did it?
>
> Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 12:08:57
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Stillen Downpipe Report
I received and installed my Stillen
downpipe this weekend (um... in the pits
at the track) and gutted my (um...
extra) rear precat. Yay for removing
post-turbo restrictions!
Installation: The Stillen pipe fits, but not without some coercion
from a
rubber mallet to "walk" it up the threads of the bolts on the O2
sensor
housings. I plugged the holes for the O2 sensors with the
provided plugs
since my '95 only has 2 O2 sensors. Bolting the pipe up
to my HKS exhaust
was interesting as the Stillen pipe wanted to push the
cat-back exhaust all
the way toward the driver's side of the car, forcing it
to rest on the
exhaust hanger bolt (not good). I took it to an
exhaust shop and they
heated and bent the HKS pipe about 0.5cm toward the
passenger side of the
car so it didn't rest on the bolt. That solved
the problem (I think). I
may have heard a "tink" from the exhaust
hitting something when I started
the car once or twice, but I'm not
sure. The engine certainly does move
around when you start it
cold! The pipe also runs REALLY close to the
transfer case, but I don't
think it's a problem.
Performance: Duh...
kick-@$$ I get full boost at least 500RPM
sooner and
it holds more boost to redline. Throttle response is
improved, and the
engine doesn't seem at all strained at 7000RPM. Feels
like it could do 8000
no problem. It's a little louder than with just
the HKS cat-back, but not a
huge amount louder. The guys at the
autocross said it's relatively quiet,
compared to the 'vettes with Borlas,
but you could still tell when I'm on
it. It's near the volume where I'd
consider it a bit annoying in
residential areas, but I'm not romping on it in
my neighborhood anyway.
Installation website and pictures are coming when
I have time.
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Black 3000GT VR-4 (6MT, AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 36,000
mi
Track Setup: FIPK, HKS TT Exhaust, GReddy
PRofecA,
GReddy TypeS BPV, Stillen DP, TEC Front ST Brace,
Cusco Rear ST Brace, Optima RedTop,
SpeedBleeders,
Porterfield Cryo Front Rotors, R4S Front Pads,
Firehawk SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17 @43/37(AutoX), '94 VR-4
Wheels
'94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 80,000mi
http://www.speedtoys.com/~egross-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 12:09:16
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: TEC Front Strut Tower Brace Report
In summary, I'm very pleased
with the brace's quality, performance, and
looks and Chris is a pleasure to
do business with.
The brace: very sturdy; fits like a glove;
battery bracket is beautifully
integrated and holds the battery more securely
than the stock bracket;
installation was pretty simple; powder coating looks
great.
Performance: I noticed a marked increase in steering
precision/feedback
(wasn't expecting this). There's more force
"pulling" the wheel back toward
the center when you turn, and there's less
play or delay in the steering
input reaching the wheels. Maybe a tad
more chassis vibration transmitted
to your seat, but not an annoying level by
any means. Road feel through the
chassis and steering wheel is enhanced
as well. This brace, coupled with a
rear brace seem to have removed
much of the understeer in my VR-4. In fact,
I got tail-happy in the
slaloms a few times when I was experimenting. I was
very happy with the
performance of my car at this weekend's auto-x and
driving school(9 hours) -
see that report(coming) for more.
Chris (Thorne): He was very
up-front during the development process and
delivered as promised. The
brace is expensive, but after seeing it and
installing it, I don't have so
much of a problem with the cost. Further, I
originally ordered a "Black
Chrome" brace, thinking that it was black with a
mirror finish that would
match my black car. I was surprised when I
received my brace and it was
a smoky chrome finish. I thought there'd been
a mistake until Chris
explained what Black Chrome is. At that point, he
offered to
exchange mine for a plain black one (I didn't even have to ask).
I paid to
send it back (WA to PA) and then he *overnighted* me a new one.
Needless to
say I was impressed and have no qualms recommending him as
someone to do
business with.
Installation website and pictures of the brace are coming
when I have time.
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Black 3000GT VR-4 (6MT, AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 36,000
mi
Track Setup: FIPK, HKS TT Exhaust, GReddy
PRofecA,
GReddy TypeS BPV, Stillen DP, TEC Front ST Brace,
Cusco Rear ST Brace, Optima RedTop,
SpeedBleeders,
Porterfield Cryo Front Rotors, R4S Front Pads,
Firehawk SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17 @43/37(AutoX), '94 VR-4
Wheels
'94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 80,000mi
http://www.speedtoys.com/~egross-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 14:14:04
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stillen Downpipe Report
I had the same issue when I installed
my Stillen DP. I actually had to get
my floor jack underneath(once I had it
lined up with the precat bolts) and
slowly jack it up in order to get it
on. I also get that noise when you
first start up car, thought it was
just mine.....
Francis
'96 R/T TT
(SAVC-R BC, Spearco WI, Magnacore
wires, NGK plugs .32, test pipe, Autometer
Boost Gauge, RPS TCC, HKS MegaFlow
intake, freeflow precats, Goodridge Steel
Braided Brake Lines, Porterfield
Cryo/Crossdrilled Rotors, R4S pads, 1G DSM
BOV, Ground Control
springs(500/300 F/R), Supra Fuel Pump, Borla Exhaust,
Stille DP, O2
Simulators)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 2:09 PM
To:
Team3S List (E-mail); Starnet 3Si Mailing List (E-mail); 3sracers
List
(E-mail); Nws3 (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Stillen Downpipe Report
I
received and installed my Stillen downpipe this weekend (um... in the pits
at
the track) and gutted my (um... extra) rear precat. Yay for
removing
post-turbo restrictions!
Installation: The
Stillen pipe fits, but not without some coercion from a
rubber mallet to
"walk" it up the threads of the bolts on the O2 sensor
housings. I
plugged the holes for the O2 sensors with the provided plugs
since my '95
only has 2 O2 sensors. Bolting the pipe up to my HKS exhaust
was
interesting as the Stillen pipe wanted to push the cat-back exhaust all
the
way toward the driver's side of the car, forcing it to rest on the
exhaust
hanger bolt (not good). I took it to an exhaust shop and
they
heated and bent the HKS pipe about 0.5cm toward the passenger side of
the
car so it didn't rest on the bolt. That solved the problem (I
think). I
may have heard a "tink" from the exhaust hitting something
when I started
the car once or twice, but I'm not sure. The engine
certainly does move
around when you start it cold! The pipe also runs
REALLY close to the
transfer case, but I don't think it's a problem.
Performance: Duh...
kick-@$$ I
get full boost at least 500RPM sooner and
it holds more boost to
redline. Throttle response is improved, and the
engine doesn't seem at
all strained at 7000RPM. Feels like it could do 8000
no problem.
It's a little louder than with just the HKS cat-back, but not a
huge amount
louder. The guys at the autocross said it's relatively quiet,
compared
to the 'vettes with Borlas, but you could still tell when I'm on
it.
It's near the volume where I'd consider it a bit annoying in
residential
areas, but I'm not romping on it in my neighborhood anyway.
Installation
website and pictures are coming when I have time.
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Black 3000GT VR-4 (6MT, AWD, 4WS,
ECS) 36,000
mi
Track Setup: FIPK, HKS TT Exhaust, GReddy
PRofecA,
GReddy TypeS BPV, Stillen DP, TEC Front ST Brace,
Cusco Rear ST Brace, Optima RedTop,
SpeedBleeders,
Porterfield Cryo Front Rotors, R4S Front Pads,
Firehawk SZ50EP 245/45/ZR17 @43/37(AutoX), '94 VR-4
Wheels
'94 Algae-Blue "fun to slide around corners" Corolla 80,000mi
http://www.speedtoys.com/~egross***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 12:21:31
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Top 10 reasons to keep an NA & not trade for a TT
Hey,
Michael,
I've changed the subject line for posterity... I've left
your entire 9
reasons (where's #7?) below, but as another NT owner ('94
Stealth) who is
also planning to mod mine and *not* trade up to a turbo, I
have to point out
that it should NOT cost $5k to get you into the low
14's. Your car can run
high-14s NOW. About a month ago, a couple
in FL with a 5-spd '94 R/T ran
14.71 (he) and 14.84 (she) in the 1/4 with
just a K&N. They're running
again Thursday with a couple of timing
tweaks and they hope to break 14.6 -
stay tuned (so to speak...).
:-) They expect to add a custom exhaust and
get to 14 very soon.
Since they are not Team3S members (they only have
WebTV - no computer), I'll
share some of his theory with the list in a
separate post. You'll read
tech arguments on the list on how you can and
can't get 300hp on an NA, but
from the above you should note that a big part
of the formula for winning
times is obviously technique.
Although the most popular method for
launching with our cars (NT & TT) is
with 6k clutch dumps, unless you've
got huge racing slicks and one of those
massive 2900lb clutches, that is the
*wrong* way to achieve great times.
But it is the *right* way to protect your
drive train from the forces of a
launch. The right way is to get hooked
up as quickly as possible - a fine
line of finding the right revs for your
car: You want to be in the power
band, but low enough not to bog and
high enough to launch with minimal wheel
spin and without superheating the
face of the clutch. If you do either (or
both), you can lose between
1/2 to 1 second in a run. But the right way is
also the hardest on the
drive train, since there is nothing like wheelspin
or clutch slip to
"cushion" it from transferring all the power from the
engine to the
road.
As to doing all that work to your engine, you might want to
consider the
alternative of adding a 5-6 psi supercharger kit (~$4k for
stick, $4,500 for
automatic). 5.3 psi gets you just over 300hp, and the
maximum street-legal
(and CARB-legal) 6psi yields ~310hp. Something to
think about...
It's hard to say whether your having an automatic will be
an advantage or a
disadvantage. Lots of automatics do very comparable
times to the equivalent
stick models at the track. But what I'm
suggesting is that even while
you're deciding what mods to add, you should
get out there and practice
technique... With whatever mods you've
got. If you can't get close to 15
now, with just a K&N, it's
probably a good bet that you need a good tuning
and more track
time.
JMHO,
Forrest
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Michael Crisfield" <
mcrisfield@ftmcdowell.org>
>
All -
> I've been lurking on this list for awhile and thanks, I have
learned quite
a bit about the turbo models (I own a 91 3000GT SL AUTO).
One thing I hear
a lot of is (not just on this list), don't tune an NA..just
buy a TT.
> Here are my top ten reasons for not selling my NA and buying a
TT.
> 1) I've rebuilt the motor (along with lost of other misc.
replacements)
and will be rebuilding the tranny with shift kit and trans
cooler
(recommended by DSM racer) by next year. If I sell I'm not going
to get out
what I put in - not even close.
> 2) Dynamic racing
claims that 5 staged upgrades (for around $5K), will
get my car to 300hp
without NOS (same as my model year TT), 370 hp with NOS.
> 3) The
difference in MY insurance will be about $40 a month if I buy a TT
($480 a
year).
> 4) I haven't heard anything good about TT trannys.
I've heard of waiting
lists and estimates of $4000 just for parts. One
guy swore off 3000GTs for
Eclipses because he claimed he didn't want to spend
any more time or money
rebuilding his transmission (he was racing).
>
5) This is my daily driver so the AUTO is kinda nice.
> 6) The
AWD would be nice for autocrossing but my wife would shoot me if I
took off
for a weekend and spent $300+ without her.
> 8) Despite FWD my car
handles pretty well even though my suspension has
130K on it.
>
9) I love the way my car looks and drives I just don't wanna get
smoked
by every high school punk with a mustang or civic.
> 10) There
are plenty of 300hp 3000GT TTs out there but how many 300hp NAs?
>
>
Anyway, I'm saving for my tranny rebuild now. If I get the cash
after
that
> I plan on getting a GTECH to monitor and post each
upgrade/tweak I
perform.
> My only fear is that I'll drop 5K in the
next few years, and end up with a
> car that's still in high 14s (new
Mustang GTs run 14 flat so my goal is
high
> 13's).
>
>
Michael - 91 3000GT SL AUTO
> (the few, the proud, the
slow)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 14:02:44
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re Short
notice for 60K ...
All;
For those of you making this
"international event", it should prove to be a
fun and informative/greasy
time. Meet "shy and retiring Rich" (AKA The
Gunslinger), a "mad capped
Canuck", and learn how to do your own 60k at the
same time. Anything not
described truthfully here, can only be ascertained
for certain upon
attendance ;-) Opportunities like this seldom occur IMHO so
try to make it.
Sorry for the short notice (my fault) as my parts drop
shipped to Rich's were
not absolutely certain until very recently. That
delay is the reason
for the short head's up on this event. .
Best
Darc
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Rich" <
rleroy@pacifier.com>
To: <
rleroy@pacifier.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
October 16, 2001 12:20 PM
Subject: Short Notice For 60k Clinic - Vancouver
(PDX) Area - Canned Reply
> All:
>
> I will be doing Darcy
Gunnlaugson's (another Team3S
> admin) 60k on his RT/TT (Canadian version
- kinda
> looks like a dog-sled, I think) at my home, starting
>
Saturday morning, sometime after I have my morning
> coffee. No
definitive time set, as it may depend on
> how drunk we got the night
before & what time we call
> it a night. ;-) Likely around
10:00-ish, though.
>
> If you plan on showing up, just let me
know. Early
> arrivers are required to bring lotsa donuts.
For
> those who haven't been here before, here are the
> address
& directions:
>
> 15917 NE Union Road, #14
> Ridgefield,
WA 98642
> Cell: 360-609-0044
>
> From I-5, take
exit #9 (Clark County Fairgrounds).
> At the bottom of the exit, turn east
on 179th Street.
> IMMEDIATELY turn south on Union Road, the first
>
street to the east and parallel to the freeway.
> Jollies restaurant is on
Union Road, in front of you.
> Parallel I-5 south on Union for 0.8 miles
(past the
> cemetery) and through the ess turns. On your left,
as
> you exit the ess, is a condominium complex. Turn into
>
the second entrance (~50 yards apart). Go up the hill
> & turn
right, second door on the right - where the
> white van & all the
other cars are.
>
> For anyone coming south on I-5, my personal best
is
> 62 minutes between Olympia and the exit. ;-)
>
>
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 17:20:23
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Washer in my #3 cylinder?
I replaced my injectors to RC 550cc's
and was told a washer (can't remember
what exactly it was) fell in the
cylinder. Basically my mechanic told me he
has been getting metal shavings
out of the cylinder and not sure if it is
still in there. My choice
is:
1.pay him appx 20hrs worth of labor to see if it's still in there, if
not
and no damage then great (still out the $$)
2. pull all the metal
he can then give it back to me.
My question is if I just have him do
what he can then give it back is it
possible the "problem has worked it's way
out?" I don't see spending this
kind of money (that I don't have) if it's
possible the motor is ok. If it
does cause a problem later I can fix it then
( for pretty much the same
price.)
What do you guys
think?
Curtis
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 14:47:33
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Washer in my #3 cylinder?
No way out buddy..its gotta come
apart and get cleaned out..at best youre
looking at a partial teardown with
new rings for that one cylinder..at
best.
On Tue, 16 Oct 2001, Curtis
McConnel wrote:
> I replaced my injectors to RC 550cc's and was told a
washer (can't remember
> what exactly it was) fell in the cylinder.
Basically my mechanic told me he
> has been getting metal shavings out of
the cylinder and not sure if it is
> still in there. My choice is:
>
> 1.pay him appx 20hrs worth of labor to see if it's still in there, if
not
> and no damage then great (still out the $$)
>
> 2. pull
all the metal he can then give it back to me.
>
> My question is
if I just have him do what he can then give it back is it
> possible the
"problem has worked it's way out?" I don't see spending this
> kind of
money (that I don't have) if it's possible the motor is ok. If it
> does
cause a problem later I can fix it then ( for pretty much the same
>
price.)
>
> What do you guys think?
>
>
Curtis
> 1995 Vr-4 Spyder
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 17:27:19
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Washer in my #3 cylinder?
Can't I wait it out some? How will I
know when it's a major problem if I was
to not tear it down
(symptoms)
Curtis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff
Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001
3:48 PM
To: Curtis McConnel
Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Washer in my #3 cylinder?
No way out buddy..its gotta come
apart and get cleaned out..at best youre
looking at a partial teardown with
new rings for that one cylinder..at
best.
On Tue, 16 Oct 2001, Curtis
McConnel wrote:
> I replaced my injectors to RC 550cc's and was told a
washer (can't
remember
> what exactly it was) fell in the cylinder.
Basically my mechanic told me
he
> has been getting metal shavings out
of the cylinder and not sure if it is
> still in there. My choice
is:
>
> 1.pay him appx 20hrs worth of labor to see if it's still in
there, if not
> and no damage then great (still out the $$)
>
> 2. pull all the metal he can then give it back to me.
>
>
My question is if I just have him do what he can then give it back is it
>
possible the "problem has worked it's way out?" I don't see spending
this
> kind of money (that I don't have) if it's possible the motor is ok.
If it
> does cause a problem later I can fix it then ( for pretty much the
same
> price.)
>
> What do you guys think?
>
>
Curtis
> 1995 Vr-4 Spyder
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 14:52:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Washer in my #3 cylinder?
Sure you can wait it
out.
Just buy a new motor instead of a "minor" rebuild.
On Tue, 16
Oct 2001, Curtis McConnel wrote:
> Can't I wait it out some? How will
I know when it's a major problem if I was
> to not tear it down
(symptoms)
>
> Curtis
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 3:48
PM
> To: Curtis McConnel
> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Washer in my #3 cylinder?
>
>
> No way
out buddy..its gotta come apart and get cleaned out..at best youre
>
looking at a partial teardown with new rings for that one cylinder..at
>
best.
>
> On Tue, 16 Oct 2001, Curtis McConnel wrote:
>
> > I replaced my injectors to RC 550cc's and was told a washer
(can't
> remember
> > what exactly it was) fell in the cylinder.
Basically my mechanic told me
> he
> > has been getting metal
shavings out of the cylinder and not sure if it is
> > still in there.
My choice is:
> >
> > 1.pay him appx 20hrs worth of labor to
see if it's still in there, if not
> > and no damage then great (still
out the $$)
> >
> > 2. pull all the metal he can then give it
back to me.
> >
> > My question is if I just have him do
what he can then give it back is it
> > possible the "problem has
worked it's way out?" I don't see spending this
> > kind of money (that
I don't have) if it's possible the motor is ok. If it
> > does cause a
problem later I can fix it then ( for pretty much the same
> > price.)
> >
> > What do you guys think?
> >
> >
Curtis
> > 1995 Vr-4 Spyder
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 15:30:18
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Washer in my #3 cylinder?
There are only two ways into the
cylinder - the spark plug hole and
the intake valve (through the intake
manifold) - assuming the exhaust
side is not open. Both areas should be
covered with clean rags to
prevent this sort of accident when changing things
such as spark
plugs and injectors. Do not take the chance that any
metal/plastic
particle might make it past the rings or through the exhaust
valves
and into the turbo. If that happens, you'll need an engine
rebuild
plus be replacing a turbo. Didn't you just upgrade
turbos?
Gotta agree with Mohler on this. You have to be sure there
is
*nothing* metallic or plastic loose in that cylinder before you
ever
turn the engine over. Maybe there is a way to vacuum stuff out
then
inspect with a small camera? If the mechanic made this
serious
mistake, it is his financial responsibility to make it
right.
How to change fuel injectors (note rags):
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/nlucius/n-2-injectors.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curtis McConnel" <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 16, 2001 3:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: Washer in my #3
cylinder?
I replaced my injectors to RC 550cc's and was told a washer
(can't
remember what exactly it was) fell in the cylinder.
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 17:33:33
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Washer in my #3 cylinder?
> Can't I wait it out some? How
will I know when it's a major
> problem if I was to not tear it down
(symptoms)
If there's an object in the cylinder, its already a major
problem. You've
probably got dings in the top of the chamber in the
head (which will cause
hotspots) and probably some valve problems in that
cylinder as well. If the
metal fragments are large enough the rings
might be okay...
Don't run it, pull it apart. I hope it's the front
bank - easier to work
on.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 15:53:07
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Washer in my #3 cylinder?
> Gotta agree with Mohler on
this. You have to be sure there is
> *nothing* metallic or plastic loose
in that cylinder before you ever
> turn the engine over. Maybe there is a
way to vacuum stuff out then
> inspect with a small camera? If the
mechanic made this serious
> mistake, it is his financial responsibility
to make it right.
- ---
Hes already beyond hope of a "cleaning" as there
is damage already (thats
what I gathered from the opriginal
posting)
If the original part was in there..intact..and would fit out the
hole..no
problem. And scopes to inspect a cylinder are available,
although few
shops have them.
> How to change fuel injectors (note
rags):
>
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/nlucius/n-2-injectors.htm>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Curtis McConnel" <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 3:20 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Washer in my #3
cylinder?
>
> I replaced my injectors to RC 550cc's and was told a
washer (can't
> remember what exactly it was) fell in the cylinder.
> <snip>
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 18:44:53
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Stillen Downpipe Report
Hey Erik, Glad to hear you're happy with
it. I hope Rich likes his as well.
I can still get them for
almost the same price as I got them for you so if
anyone's interested, let
me know.
I also had a little resistance when pushing the pipe up, but
it was minor
enough to just give it a good whack and it popped in
place.
I had my car at the Quickening this weekend and there were cars
with stock
downpipes just as loud if not louder than mine, but I still love
the extra
power and added volume.
The pipe was in fact really
close to the transfer case, but I don't plan on
letting my x-fer case go
anywhere without the rest of the car. =)
My custom exhaust bolted right
up to the dowpipe, so I'm guessing it may have
been the aftermarket exhasut
you have? Maybe the hanger is a little off? I
know my exhaust
was custom fitted so it lined up the same as the stock pieces.
As for that
sound when you start the car, I don't get it with mine, where's
it sound
like it's coming from? What kind of sound is it? Maybe I can try
to find a potential problem area that I can inform Stillen about.
Paul Butkiewicz
The Stillen Downpipe Selling Guy...
Diablo
Enterprises
Norwood, MA 02062-4012
Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 16:06:12
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stillen Downpipe Report
> Hey Erik, Glad to hear you're happy
with it.
I yeah, I can't believe I forgot to put a plug in for
Paul's business - I
had a favorable experience with him as well.
Stillen's shipping delays
leave something to be desired, but that's not his
fault. He kept me posted
as to the status of the order and gave me a
great price, so he gets the
thumbs up from me as well.
> I also had
a little resistance when pushing the pipe up, but
> it was minor enough
to just give it a good whack and it popped
> in place.
You
have a 1G, right? Maybe things are twisted slightly between 1G and
2G
(along with the significant rotation of the bolts on the rear
precat
housing). I had to repeatedly smack it with a rubber mallet to
get it on
those bolts and it took 2 people to crank on it enough to get the
3" end to
line up with the rest of the exhaust.
> My custom exhaust
bolted right up to the dowpipe, so I'm
> guessing it may have been the
aftermarket exhasut you have?
I don't think so as I had it bolted up to
the stock downpipe/cat and
everything fit perfectly.
> Maybe the
hanger is a little off?
I don't think so, but I'll get under there
and check things out again when I
have some free time.
> As for
that sound when you start the car, I don't get it with
> mine, where's it
sound like it's coming from? What kind of sound is it?
Well,
it's only one "tink" and barely noticeable if you don't know what
you're
looking for. It comes from directly under the rear of the
center
console. Before I had the HKS pipe heated and bent, the HKS pipe
rested
against the bolt on the exhaust hanger about 12" to the rear of the
joint
where the rear of the stock cat bolts up. As the engine moved
through
normal operation, the HKS pipe would clank against the bolt head and
make a
very loud sound in the cabin and the vibration could be felt in the
e-brake,
seat, and floorpan. Outside, you didn't hear much of
anything. The sound I
get now is a muffled version of the above - but
only one clink, and only
sometimes when I start the car. I'm pretty
sure it's the pipe hitting the
bolt as the engine rocks a little more than
normal upon startup.
- --Erik
P.S. Dynamat melts when
applied as padding to exhaust parts. It still
dampens when melted,
though :-)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 19:27:23
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Stillen Downpipe Report
> I yeah, I can't believe
I forgot to put a plug in for Paul's business - I
> had a
favorable experience with him as well. He kept me
posted
> as to the status of the order and gave me a great
price, so he gets the
> thumbs up from me as well.
HEY,
THAT'S ME!!! =)
Thanks Erik the best business is always by word
of mouth!
> You have a 1G, right? Maybe things are
twisted slightly between 1G and 2G
> (along with the
significant rotation of the bolts on the rear precat
>
housing). I had to repeatedly smack it with a rubber mallet to get it
on
> those bolts and it took 2 people to crank on it enough to
get the 3" end
to
> line up with the rest of the
exhaust.
Yes I do, I've got a 92RT/TT. The pipe lines up on a different
angle, so
that's probably what it was. But for Stillen to be able to
incorporate both
generations into one pipe I guess there would have to be a
little compromise.
As long as it's a good tight fit, I dont care if I
need to give it a "love
tap" to get it in there.
> I don't think so as I had it bolted up to the stock
downpipe/cat and
> everything fit perfectly.
Hmm... Mine
was the same way, maybe I just got lucky? When you took the
stock DP
off, did you notice the aftermarket exhaust move at all? It may be
possible the cat-back just moved. I'm not familiar with the mouting of
your
particular exhaust, so I'll just back off this subject.
Like I said
before, I'm very happy with your exhaust, and be sure to let me
know if you
need anything else.
Paul Butkiewicz
Diablo Enterprises
Norwood,
MA 02062-4012
Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 18:28:22
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stillen Downpipe Report
At 06:44 PM 10/16/01 EDT,
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
wrote:
>Hey Erik, Glad to hear you're happy with it. I hope Rich
likes his as
well.
It came Friday. I'm waiting for a chance to
put it in. Haven't even opened
the box yet.
Rich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 19:56:36
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Redlined Engine & Knocking/Ticking Sound?
Hi guys, my engine
started going crazy today. I was on Rte. 1 today and was
pulling away
from a red light. I was about to shift into third
(35MPH,RPM~3.5k?). I clutched in and the engine shot up to 7k
RPM. I
quickly pulled off the road, shut off the engine, and coasted
into a parking
lot. What happened??
For my theory, you need to
understand, I was about to go get some emmissions
testing done to see what
kind of numbers the Stillen DP could provide. I went
to AutoZone and asked
the manager if the EmmissionPass stuff was ok to put in
my car.
Knowing he was a mechanic for a while from talking to him before, I
trusted
his opinion. Now onto my theory:
The O2 sensor gave a very bad reading
to the ECU due to the shit that I put
in the gas tank. Then the engine
adjusted the idle speed to 7000 RPM
thinking the engine was about to
stall.
Does this make any sense to anyone?
Anyway, after I
shut off the engine and checked all the hoses and everything,
I decided I'd
start it back up and see what happens. Everything ran ok, but
I got a
rattling/knocking sound. It sounded like the "lifter tick" but
extremely loud and got much worse as the RPM's went up. I think maybe
there's something wrong with a rocker maybe? I took the front valve
cover
off and everything looks ok. Any ideas? Someone please
help, I need to get
a winter car and I'm wondering if I should try to fix
this now and get the
winter car in a few weeks or just get the winter car
now and put the Stealth
away and start tearing apart the engine.
Thanks
guys,
Paul Butkiewicz
Diablo Enterprises
Norwood, MA
02062-4012
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 17:17:28
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Redlined Engine & Knocking/Ticking Sound?
Oddly enough on
TWO occasions, we had a very momentary thorttle-stick in
our 95 VR4 (at
random positions) that manifested itself in continued
acceleration when I
lifted off the gas to coast for a light.
I wouldnt rule out a sticking
linkage..etc. Go spray lube em down..this
is one of those preventative
manitenance things the books never tell ya
about.
On Tue, 16 Oct 2001
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
wrote:
> Hi guys, my engine started going crazy today. I was on
Rte. 1 today and was
> pulling away from a red light. I was about
to shift into third
> (35MPH,RPM~3.5k?). I clutched in and the
engine shot up to 7k RPM. I
> quickly pulled off the road, shut off
the engine, and coasted into a parking
> lot. What happened??
> For my theory, you need to understand, I was about to go get some
emmissions
> testing done to see what kind of numbers the Stillen DP
could provide. I went
> to AutoZone and asked the manager if the
EmmissionPass stuff was ok to put in
> my car. Knowing he was a
mechanic for a while from talking to him before, I
> trusted his
opinion. Now onto my theory:
> The O2 sensor gave a very bad
reading to the ECU due to the shit that I put
> in the gas tank.
Then the engine adjusted the idle speed to 7000 RPM
> thinking the engine
was about to stall.
> Does this make any sense to anyone?
> Anyway, after I shut off the engine and checked all the hoses and
everything,
> I decided I'd start it back up and see what happens.
Everything ran ok, but
> I got a rattling/knocking sound. It
sounded like the "lifter tick" but
> extremely loud and got much worse as
the RPM's went up. I think maybe
> there's something wrong with a
rocker maybe? I took the front valve cover
> off and everything
looks ok. Any ideas? Someone please help, I need to get
> a
winter car and I'm wondering if I should try to fix this now and get the
> winter car in a few weeks or just get the winter car now and put the
Stealth
> away and start tearing apart the engine.
> Thanks
guys,
> Paul Butkiewicz
> Diablo Enterprises
> Norwood,
MA 02062-4012
>
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/>
http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:06:45
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Stillen Downpipe Report
In a message dated 10/16/01 7:59:38 PM
Eastern Daylight Time,
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com writes:
> The
closeness might be a heat concern.
> Didn't post to the list, just
FYI, in case you want to discuss it.
That's a good thought, but I have a
feeling the bolts might just be on an
angle.
If the pipes expanded
too much from heat, I think there would be a serious
problem with pipes
cracking/bending and the engine moving and twisting. I
won't say it's not
possible, but I think it's something simple like angled
bolts or Stillen
making the pipe 0.002" short.
Paul Butkiewicz
Diablo
Enterprises
Norwood, MA 02062-4012
Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 19:12:32
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Redlined Engine & Knocking/Ticking Sound?
> For my
theory, you need to understand, I was about to go
> get some emmissions
testing done to see what kind of
> numbers the Stillen DP could provide. I
went to AutoZone
> and asked the manager if the EmmissionPass stuff was
ok
> to put in my car.
What is "EmissionPass stuff"? What
does it do? Did you fail emissions
before and tried some wacky stuff to
try to pass?
> The O2 sensor gave a very bad reading to the ECU
due
> to the shit that I put in the gas tank.
The O2 sensor can't
physically give readings much beyond its 0V-1V range.
> Then the
engine adjusted the idle speed to 7000 RPM
> thinking the engine was about
to stall.
Was it actually having trouble maintaining idle?
If not, then the ECU
shouldn't try to compensate for a condition that doesn't
exist. I agree
with Geoff that its more likely a stuck throttle linkage
or something along
those lines. If you have floormats in your car, did
the floormat catch the
edge of the throttle pedal and hold it down?
Happens all the time in my
truck after WOT action.
> Everything ran
ok, but I got a rattling/knocking sound.
> It sounded like the "lifter
tick" but extremely loud
> and got much worse as the RPM's went
up.
Rattling/knocking doesn't sound good... Spark plugs look
okay? Hope you
didn't hurt anything.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:22:46
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Redlined Engine & Knocking/Ticking Sound?
In a message dated
10/16/01 8:14:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
mjannusch@marketwatch.com
writes:
> What is "EmissionPass stuff"? What does it
do? Did you fail emissions
> before and tried some wacky stuff
to try to pass?
It's something you put in your fuel to help your Nox and CO
levels. I have
none of the three cats on the car and was going to a
shop to see what kind of
numbers the exhaust would get without any
cats.
> Was it actually having trouble maintaining idle?
Nope, the idle was a little high, but not bad. Then when it hit 7k it
was
very smooth, not like the jumpy fuel cut sound.
>
If you have floormats in your car, did the floormat catch the
> edge
of the throttle pedal and hold it down?
Definitely not. I
thought about that though... Used to happen in my Jetta.
> Rattling/knocking doesn't sound good... Spark plugs look
okay? Hope you
> didn't hurt anything.
I haven't check the
plugs yet, I'll do that next. I have the valve cover off
but haven't
done much more from there yet.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 17:22:58
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Washer in my #3 cylinder?
The bore scope is a direct offshoot of
medicine. It is used for surgery in
the knee or abdomen but has been adopted
for use in machines. You may have
seen the offshoot used for police work on
various tv shows. The scope can
also be used to manipulate what it sees. The
image is shown on a seperate
screen while the mechanic used controls to
manipulate what the scope sees
and does.
Andy
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:55:52
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Re: Redlined Engine & Knocking/Ticking Sound?
Shit.... this
sounds like my problem....
It's heavier than the lifter tick and much
louder.
Anyway to fix it before it gets worse? Or is it as bad
as it gets? What
exactly does the main bearing do?
I guess
I'm rebuilding my engine this weekend.
What's a new engine w/o turbos
or anything that I can use from my car? I
might just pick up a
rear-ended parts car...
Paul Butkiewicz
Diablo
Enterprises
Norwood, MA 02062-4012
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/-
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Johnson
To:
stealth@stls.verio.net Sent:
Tuesday, October 16, 2001 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: Redlined Engine &
Knocking/Ticking Sound?
does it sound like a really "heavy"
knock...something metallic and heavy?
mine did that before...pretty
loud...not like lifter knock..."heavier" sound
than the lifters...it was my
main bearing...cost me a new engine...my brother
was driving my car and over
revved it going from fourth to first at 70
mph...first and LAST brother to
drive my car...i was even in the
f%@#ing car
when he did it...
keith
92tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#647
***************************************