Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, October 15
2001 Volume 01 : Number
646
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Oct 2001 18:27:00 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Watkins Glen??
Hey, my brother was out by the Glen today, and said there
were a whole
bunch of Stealth's there.. anyone we know??
Ken
-
--
Ken Stanton
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
'91 Pearl White R/T
TwinTurbo
Super Snoopy - Plates 007KEN
FIPK, HKS Exhaust, APEXi AVC-R,
Improved Precats
Bozzspeed Lightweight Flywheel, RPS Stage II
6-speed
transmission (5-6 speed conversion)
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 20:17:53
-0400
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Stereo Volume Fluctuations
The stereo on my 93 Stealth ES has
recently begun acting oddly.
Periodically, while driving merrily along, the
volume will arbitrarily
increase or decrease on its own. It goes from
"listenable to annoyingly
loud" or "listenable to barely audible".
Sometimes it happens while sitting
at a stop light.
Any of you had
this happen before, or have any ideas on what's going on or
where to begin
troubleshooting?
It's a stock head unit, with cassette, 9-band EQ, and
CD-changer controls.
Thanks.
Dennis
93 Stealth
ES
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 20:50:15
-0500
From: "Kyle" <
Celica@speed-racer.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Transmission Strength / Seats
Hi all,
I was
wondering if the tranny for a '93 SL is as strong as a '93 VR4. Is
it the
same tranny, only set up for a FWD rather than a 4WD. If not, what
is the
maximum safe HP for an SL transmission?
Also, if you recall,
I switched out my cloth seats for leather last
week. It took only half an
hour to hook them up. They work great, and add a
lot to my interior.
When I went to Salt Lake City and met the guy
I bought them from, he
told me his VR4 was stolen, and had the engine ripped
out. The insurance
company didnt give him what he wanted for the car, so he
took everything he
could off the car (body panels, interior panels, seats,
etc.) before the
insurance company took it away... does this sound a little
bit fishy, or is
it just me? Could these seats be hot? This guy is in college
and drives a
BMW Convertible?!?
Kyle Call
'93 SL
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 20:24:02
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fuel Guage
I have determined the source of my fuel gauge
problem. It is probably
unique, but I will share it with the list just
the same. First of all,
Jeff's information was very helpful in getting
the pump/gauge out of the
car. The critical thing for me was buying the
14mm flare nut wrench.
Without it, there is an excellent chance of stripping
the soft metal nut or
bending the tube. Even with it, there is a lot of
force required to break
the nut loose and you still have to worry about
bending the tube. I did,
but only a small amount.
For pics of
the assemblies:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius8/j8-2-fuelpumps.htmFor
pump removal:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-fuelpump.htmAfter
removal I verified the electrical connections which are listed below:
On
a VR-4 or Stealth TT they are:
Black/red =
ground
Black = ground on pump assembly
frame
Black/blue = power to pump (pump is grounded to assembly
frame)
Yellow = fuel gauge
Yellow/blue = low
fuel warning light
My problem was the gauge didn't work. The way it
works is the float arm
position determines how much resistance is between the
Yellow and Black/Red
connections. The resistor network is inside the
plastic housing. The float
arm pivots and wipes across the resistor
network. In my unit, the plastic
housing was not completely snapped
together which caused an intermittant
connection for the wiper. I
simply snapped the housing tight and measured
the resistance. On my
car, the resistance between Yellow and Black/Red
varies from about 10 ohms to
110 ohms. Plugging in the electrical
connection and turning the key to
ACC showed a normal gauge, so I
reassembled everything and it seems fine
now.
Jim
95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 21:08:01
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
coilovers
I'm running the Ground Control setup --- I have the coilovers,
camber plates and
GAB struts. I like the setup and with the Eibach springs I
can get almost any
spring rate that I want. I've read threads where folk have
trouble with the
stiffer coilovers and stock struts ---- you should check
into possible problems
there. [ pictures available]
The Tien HA setup
which includes the struts is considered by some to be
superior ---- I don't
know I've never seen or used one. When I checked into
buying a set I was
disappointed in the spring choices --- I think there were
only three or four,
and the fact that the rebuildable shock has to be sent back to
Japan for
rebuild --- yeah like that's going to happen. You can get front
camber plates
and rear pillowball mounts [not rear camber plates] .
The price of the Tien
setup is a little more than the GC setup with a quality
strut.
As to
handling --- mine is much better, however, I have 900# springs on the
front
and 650's on the rear with the struts set to a very firm ride. I also run
-
-3º camber in the front for race or -1½º front and rear for day to
day
operations. It is not a daily driver although I drive it on the street
regularly.
Southern California is pretty easy on equipment so the stiff
and lowered ride
is not a big
problem.
Jim
Berry
=======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
M.Korsinczky@mailbox.uq.edu.au>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Hey all
>
> Is anyone running coilovers?
>
> If so,
which brand? What sort of improvement in handling did you
notice?
>
> Does the front of the car feel any
lighter?
>
> Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 21:49:39
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: coilovers
Jim's coilover setup is 'Mohler Approved' as
well.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 22:45:06
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Ok..done beat me up for a C5 post..but..
Heres a site I fell into
that covers *albeit remotely* some of the
drivetrain loss debates.
It
doesnt say how/why, but was an interesting study in what fluids
do
what.
Some other neat data points on various manuf. fluids were
discovered as
well.
Ya..were not C5s, but oil is oil..and so far its
about the best
apples-apples comparison I saw.
The drivetrain loss
chart was cool..I thought.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 07:44:20
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: A URL might help eh?
http://www.c5-corvette.com/redline.htm-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 07:44:50
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: Water
level switch
Anyone who is parting out and has a water level switch from
the bottom of
either windshield washer bottle, please contact me privately.
That's the
plug cum switch. Thanks
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 09:03:26
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: A URL might help eh?
Done
Forwarded post
for the listss.
On Mon, 15 Oct 2001, Steve Lasher wrote:
>
Geoff,
> What's the difference in your post with the URL below, and
mine:
>
>
http://www.taxila.com/DSers/snaps/videos/ra062301/The_DSers_RA_chase_video.mov>
> If mine just won't format right, can you forward the address to
the
> list? I think it's prety good (and fast) footage at RA -
albeit large
> at 35 Meg. Or do you think no one would be interested
in it?
>
> -Steve
>
> Geoff Mohler wrote:
> >
> >
http://www.c5-corvette.com/redline.htm>
> ---
> > Geoff Mohler
> >
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 11:58:35
-0400
From: Patrick Smyth <
smythpal@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: srs light question
I've been lurking for quite some time. What a
great source of info!!!
My srs light has been on for 3 years, just as
battery died. With knowledge
from this post, I sent it in to the dealer to
be reset. The light
immediately came back on with the same error code - low
voltage. I had the
complete electrical system checked - no discharging,
battery fine, etc.
Does this mean my ECU could be bad?? Or is there another
problem/solution?
Thanks for the help.
Pat Smyth, 92 Stealth
RT/TT
Patrick Smyth CCDA, BCom, MBA
President
Octane Systems
Inc.
816 Tavistock Rd.,
Ottawa K2B 5N4
613-794-6090 Fax
613-829-9512
smythpal@sympatico.ca***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 11:20:38
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: srs and octane
Pat:
Where you been, bro? We've
had zillions of questions here about octane
boosters, race gas, what octane
does and so on, and there you are -- a true
expert on the subject -- just
a-lurkin' out there. Don't be so shy. Jump in
next time an octane question
comes around on the guitar (as Arlo Guthrie
might say).
Sorry, I
don't know the answer to your SRS question.
Rich
At 11:58 AM
10/15/01 -0400, Patrick Smyth wrote:
>I've been lurking for quite some
time. What a great source of info!!!
>My srs light has been on for 3 years
<snip>
>Pat Smyth, 92 Stealth RT/TT
President
Octane Systems
Inc.
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 10:24:09
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stereo Volume Fluctuations
Hi Dennis and Anita: It sounds
like a component in the volume control
circuits of your radio unit is
starting to go bad or is coming loose. These
are pretty good units, sound
great, and fit perfectly in the car. It will
probably not be possible to fix
on your own without very special test
equipment. I would suggest taking the
car to a stereo specialist. I say this
as a former electronics engineer in a
prior life. These things are complex
in ways that cannot be repaired by just
looking at them.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 10:27:40
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 1st vs 2nd Gen climate control - differences?
All -
Are
there any differences between the 1st and 2nd gen climate
control
panels? Could I put the climate control panel from a 1st gen
into my '94
VR-4? Mine's on the fritz, and there a used one on ebay,
but before I bid
on it I'd like to make sure it'll work.
I
haven't taken mine out to check, but are the button backlights on the
climate
panel replacable? The right side backlight is burned out on mine
and
I'd rather replace the light than the whole panel.
Thanks!
- -
Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 10:42:45
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1st vs 2nd Gen climate control - differences?
What are people
asking for the 2nd gen display?
On Mon, 15 Oct 2001, Geddes, Brian J
wrote:
> All -
>
> Are there any differences between the
1st and 2nd gen climate control
> panels? Could I put the climate
control panel from a 1st gen into my '94
> VR-4? Mine's on the
fritz, and there a used one on ebay, but before I bid
> on it I'd like to
make sure it'll work.
>
> I haven't taken mine out to check,
but are the button backlights on the
> climate panel replacable? The
right side backlight is burned out on mine
> and I'd rather replace the
light than the whole panel.
>
> Thanks!
> -
Brian
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 10:35:25
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: srs light question
Hey, Pat,
There's a TSB for all 91-94
Stealths on the topic. Hopefully, your dealer
used it when diagnosing
the problem...(?) :-) Look on our Team3S FAQ pages
(Basics
Section) for the Recalls & TSBs page to get the whole procedure
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htm . In
short, step 1: With a fully charged battery
(and after verifying that
good contact is made on the battery hookups), turn
the key on and off 10
times in succession. It works sometimes, but not
always, and I've never
seen an explanation why.
Another note in the TSB said, "1991 and early
built 1992 Models: Look for
signs of electrical corrosion between the
terminal and the bracket on the
impact sensors. Moisture entering through the
terminal cavity could be the
cause. Vehicles built after June 1992 are sealed
with resin to eliminate the
possibility of moisture entry." The rest of
it is on the Recalls/TSB
page...
Since one of our new 'rules' appears
to be sharing chat with people in 33
countries about what we were doing 30
years ago, I'll chime in - I drove to
Woodstock in a beat up Nash (something
or other) but got a ride home with
some fine officers from the NYS
Police. ;-) It was an easy ride with the
NYS Thruway
closed!
Later,
Forrest
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Patrick Smyth" <
smythpal@sympatico.ca>
> I've
been lurking for quite some time. What a great source of info!!!
> My srs
light has been on for 3 years, just as battery died. With knowledge
from this
post, I sent it in to the dealer to be reset. The light
immediately came back
on with the same error code - low voltage. I had the
complete electrical
system checked - no discharging, battery fine, etc.
Does this mean my ECU
could be bad?? Or is there another problem/solution?
Thanks for the
help.
> Pat Smyth, 92 Stealth RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 13:34:35
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
Yes, if the car is older than 3-4
years, selling it and buying the turbo is the way to go.
But it is fun to
tinker with the NT while you have it.
The weight penalty is definitely a
factor on the track, but sort of evens out with the AWD and better brakes.
The insurance is not much of an issue, from quite a few prior posts I've
seen.
Virtually no difference in insurance or extended warranty
coverage.
Regards,
Kurt 96 NT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jim Berry [mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Friday,
October 12, 2001 6:34 PM
To: Alex Pedenko;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
on the plus side --- the NA is
several hundred pounds lighter and the
insurance has to be considerably
less.
Jim
Berry
===========================
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Alex Pedenko <
apedenko@home.com>
>
JMHO,
>
> Isn't it cheaper (and better in
the long run) to take the money from
> those mods, plus sell the NA car,
and buy a vr4? I mean 125 + the stock 216
> (?) puts you just above the
320 mark of a stock vr4/rt tt? Plus aren't there
> more mods available for
the tt cars? Plus set aside $500, get a Blitz DSBC
> and put yerself up
past the 350 mark...
>
> Don't mean to
offend anybody, just a thought.
>
> Alex
>
> '95
VR4
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler"
<
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
To: <
stealth@starnet.net>
>
Cc: "Starnet" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>;
"'Team3S'"
> <
team3s@mail.speedtoys.com>
>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 6:46 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Re: 350 HP
(crank) on N/A
>
>
> > You for got timing..you -have- to
tune timing to really achieve good
> > power.
> >
> >
Apexi ITC.
> >
> > On Thu, 11 Oct 2001, cody wrote:
>
>
> > > Does anyone think this is possible without Nitrous.
It would be roughly
> > > a 125 HP jump on a N/A car.
> >
>
> > > Here are my plans (should things with the money situation
go smoothly):
> > >
> > > Forged Pistons
> >
> Forged Rods
> > > Knife-Edged Crank
> > > (.050
overbore)
> > > (possible stroke conversion)
> > >
(probable 12:1 CR)
> > > Rebuilt upper end (reworked heads, possible
ti valve springs)
> > > Throttle Body
> > > Port-matched
intake and exhaust
> > > 550 CC injectors
> > > Fuel
Pump
> > > Extrude honed intake
> > > Fuel Management
(still need some help on this one)
> > >
> > > Any other
suggestions???
> > >
> > > Of course, when this is done,
I plan on also installing the already
> > > planned 100 - 200 shot
nitrous system, with pistons that can seriously
> > > handle
it.
> > >
> > > -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 13:59:07
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
Well, if you're just interested
in Drag power, then Nitrous is the only sane way to go.
Still, I haven't
seen any nitrous times lower than 14.x, usually only in mid 14s.
So it still
makes more sense to swap for the TT, and lighten and mod from
there.
The only reason I haven't done this yet is I really had my
mind set on adding electirc power to the rear wheels, and I was thinking it
would be easier to just replace the whole rear suspension and wheels with an
already existing electric setup. Haven't found that setup, so I'm thinking I
will get a TT, and then can just swap in an electric motor on the rear. I'll
then just have to experiment with motor control to co-ordinate the front and
rear drive.
Of course, I will do this after my last tinkering with the
NA, to add a second throttle body setup and 360 injectors, along with my
existing leafblower mod.
I will certainly keep the list informed on
progress.
Kurt / Skyrider
- -----Original
Message-----
From: cody [mailto:overclck@starband.net]
Sent: Friday,
October 12, 2001 6:51 PM
To: 'Alex Pedenko'
Cc: Team3S
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
Oh yah - I know... but....
My car is in so many pieces no one would ever buy it...
and...
everyone has a fast TT... no one has a real fast NT... not
to mention,
the NT starts out 600 pounds lighter...
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Alex Pedenko
Sent: Friday,
October 12, 2001 8:20 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
JMHO,
Isn't it cheaper (and better in the long run) to take the money from
those
mods, plus sell the NA car, and buy a vr4? I mean 125 + the stock
216
(?)
puts you just above the 320 mark of a stock vr4/rt tt? Plus
aren't
there
more mods available for the tt cars? Plus set aside $500, get
a Blitz
DSBC
and put yerself up past the 350
mark...
Don't mean to offend anybody, just a
thought.
Alex
'95 VR4
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
stealth@starnet.net>
Cc:
"Starnet" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>;
"'Team3S'"
<
team3s@mail.speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Thursday, October 11, 2001 6:46 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on
N/A
> You for got timing..you -have- to tune timing to really
achieve good
> power.
>
> Apexi ITC.
>
> On Thu,
11 Oct 2001, cody wrote:
>
> > Does anyone think this is possible
without Nitrous. It would be
roughly
> > a 125 HP jump on a
N/A car.
> >
> > Here are my plans (should things with the
money situation go
smoothly):
---snip---
> ---
> Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 13:07:02
-0500
From:
daedel@mac.comSubject:
Team3S: Insurance
My 92 3000GT just died on me and I'm looking to pick up
a 94 SL or VR4.
Anyone around 19 have one with a good driving record so I
can kinda see
how my premiums will jump.
- -David
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 11:15:10
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Insurance
Depends on the insurance company. Some insurance
companies rate the SL's
and VR4's in the same category so the rates are the
same. Others (like
progressive) rate them differently. But just because they
rate them the
same does NOT mean it is less expensive to insure through
them
necessarily!!! Your best bet is to always call around and do
some
comparison shopping. Make sure you know you're driving history
exactly
for the previous 3 years.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT
TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone
503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
daedel@mac.comSent: Monday, October 15,
2001 11:07 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S:
Insurance
My 92 3000GT just died on me and I'm looking to pick up a 94 SL
or VR4.
Anyone around 19 have one with a good driving record so I can kinda
see
how my premiums will jump.
- -David
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 14:22:13
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re:
350 HP (crank) on N/A
The best FWD nitrous times are around 13.8
right now. The best FWD turbo
time is about 13.2. One of the
Florida guys just ran a
14.7@93 in a stock
94
R/T NA with street tires. Speaking from experience, I'd say trade up to
the
AWD car. Getting traction on a boosted FWD is an exercise in
futility.
For the money you're going to spend beefing up the suspension and
building a
forced induction or high output all-motor powerplant, you could
have a great
AWD car. If you want to say you can't afford the
insurance on the AWD car,
then you can't afford the buildup and maintenance
on the high power FWD car
either.
I'm selling out to AWD as soon as
possible. Driving my car is more work
than fun and it's depressing to
have a motor that's capable of so much power
and not being able to DO
anything with it. If the car was RWD I'd keep
working on it, but FWD is just
too limiting IMHO.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Zobel, Kurt
Sent: Monday,
October 15, 2001 1:59 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: 350 HP
(crank) on N/A
Well, if you're just interested in Drag power, then
Nitrous is the only sane
way to go.
Still, I haven't seen any nitrous
times lower than 14.x, usually only in mid
14s.
So it still makes more
sense to swap for the TT, and lighten and mod from
there.
The only
reason I haven't done this yet is I really had my mind set on
adding electirc
power to the rear wheels, and I was thinking it would be
easier to just
replace the whole rear suspension and wheels with an already
existing
electric setup. Haven't found that setup, so I'm thinking I will
get a TT,
and then can just swap in an electric motor on the rear. I'll then
just have
to experiment with motor control to co-ordinate the front and
rear
drive.
Of course, I will do this after my last tinkering with the
NA, to add a
second throttle body setup and 360 injectors, along with my
existing
leafblower mod.
I will certainly keep the list informed on
progress.
Kurt / Skyrider
- -----Original Message-----
From:
cody [mailto:overclck@starband.net]
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 6:51
PM
To: 'Alex Pedenko'
Cc: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: 350 HP
(crank) on N/A
Oh yah - I know... but....
My car is in so
many pieces no one would ever buy it... and...
everyone has a fast
TT... no one has a real fast NT... not to mention,
the NT starts
out 600 pounds lighter...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Alex Pedenko
Sent: Friday,
October 12, 2001 8:20 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
JMHO,
Isn't it cheaper (and better in the long run) to take the money from
those
mods, plus sell the NA car, and buy a vr4? I mean 125 + the stock
216
(?)
puts you just above the 320 mark of a stock vr4/rt tt? Plus
aren't
there
more mods available for the tt cars? Plus set aside $500, get
a Blitz
DSBC
and put yerself up past the 350
mark...
Don't mean to offend anybody, just a
thought.
Alex
'95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 13:24:37
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
> I'm selling out to AWD
as soon as possible. Driving my car
> is more work than fun and
it's depressing to have a motor
> that's capable of so much power and not
being able to DO
> anything with it. If the car was RWD I'd keep working
on it,
> but FWD is just too limiting IMHO.
Have you tried any
sort of limited-slip front diff? The DSM guys are using
the Phantom
Grip which is sort of a pseudo-limited-slip setup. Without
limited slip
I could see it being just plain nasty to get traction. The DSM
guys
have a FWD deep in the 10's so its possible with the right setup to
go
quick. Even the Honda guys do it, but I have no idea how streetable
their
setups are.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 14:08:31
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ATTN Racers: Hawk Blue Pads for sale
Cyrus,
This
was a terrific find for Hawk pad users, however, I was wondering if
these
were Hawk Blue MT4 or Hawk Blue 9012 compound. The boxes should
be
marked.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
NassiriC@aol.com
[SMTP:NassiriC@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 1:42 AM
>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: ATTN Racers: Hawk Blue Pads for sale
>
>
Racers, this is your lucky day!
> Some of you may remember that I lucked
onto a case of Hawk Blue Racing
> pads.
> I have 6 brand new
(still wrapped) front sets that I am selling. Retail
> they
>
go for $90 to $120 for the set.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 15:15:41
-0400
From: "Andie W. Lin" <
andiewlin@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ATTN Racers: Hawk Blue Pads for sale
AFAIK, Chuck, the MT4
has been discontinued, so I imagine it is probably
the
9012.
Andie
andie w lin
vp marketing and product
r&d
carbotech engineering
http://www.carbotecheng.comtel:
877.899.5024 | fax: 954.493.9669
::-----Original Message-----
::From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
::Of Willis, Charles E.
::Sent:
Monday, October 15, 2001 3:09 PM
::To:
'NassiriC@aol.com';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st::Subject:
RE: Team3S: ATTN Racers: Hawk Blue Pads for
sale
::
::
::Cyrus,
::
::This was a terrific find for Hawk pad
users, however, I was wondering if
::these were Hawk Blue MT4 or Hawk Blue
9012 compound. The boxes should
be
::marked.
::
::Chuck
::
::> -----Original
Message-----
::> From:
NassiriC@aol.com
[SMTP:NassiriC@aol.com]
::> Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 1:42
AM
::> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st::>
Subject: Team3S: ATTN Racers: Hawk Blue Pads for sale
::>
::>
Racers, this is your lucky day!
::> Some of you may remember that I lucked
onto a case of Hawk Blue Racing
::> pads.
::> I have 6 brand new
(still wrapped) front sets that I am selling. Retail
::>
they
::> go for $90 to $120 for the set.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 14:24:39
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ATTN Racers: Hawk Blue Pads for sale
don't really know
how long the pads have been sitting in trunk of the VR4 he
got at auction
...
WTF is AFAIK?
> AFAIK, Chuck, the MT4 has been
discontinued, so I imagine it is probably
> the
> 9012.
>
> Andie
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 14:25:24
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ATTN Racers: Hawk Blue Pads for sale
(A)s (F)ar (A)s
(I) (K)now
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
[mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001
2:25 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: ATTN Racers: Hawk Blue Pads for sale
don't really know how
long the pads have been sitting in trunk of the VR4 he
got at auction
...
WTF is AFAIK?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 12:38:32
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
A.F.A.I.K. and other acronyms...
Lots of general Acronyms and separate
page for 3S Acronyms are on our FAQ
pages in the Basics Section.
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htmF
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 15:35:44
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: A.F.A.I.K. and other acronyms...
Okay, but I didn't find
BOHICA on the general acronym list ...
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Bob Forrest [SMTP:bf@bobforrest.com]
> Sent:
Monday, October 15, 2001 2:39 PM
> To: Morice, Francis; 'Willis, Charles
E.'; Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: A.F.A.I.K. and other acronyms...
>
> Lots of general Acronyms and separate page for 3S Acronyms are on our
FAQ
> pages in the Basics Section.
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htm>
>
F
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 13:48:27
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Insurance
For whatever good it will do for you, I am 54 with a
clean record. State
farm charges me 362 every 6 months for 100/300k, um
30/60; 0 deductible for
collision and
comphrehensive.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 13:56:27
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: A.F.A.I.K. and other acronyms...
http://www.linuxguruz.org/foldoc/foldoc.php?BOHICAVery
suprising how many BOHICA Teams there are searching with
google.com.
:)
Some more for the 3S-specific page.
BPV - By-Pass Valve (the actual
name Mitsu gives the device most
incorrectly call a BOV)
IPW - Injector
Pulse Width (dataloggers report this, in milliseconds)
MHI - Mitsubishi Heavy
Industries (manufacturer of our turbos)
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 18:31:51
-0600
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Insurance
I am 19 and I pay 216 a month with progressive. I do get
their discount for
a (so far) perfect driving record, good student, and
defensive driving
course.
T.J.
1992 3000GT VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#646
***************************************