Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, October 14
2001 Volume 01 : Number
645
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 Oct 2001 18:29:50 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Coils was Iridiums
>The MDS DIS-4, is perhaps the most
viable option I have heard of, and
>until he recently gave me a
heads
>up on it, I was unaware of it's existence.
I have the box
with adapters installed since a year (or more) and one or
two pics are on my
webpage. No gain on the dyno !
> Maybe Richard can give you a
low
>down on it, as he has me, or failing that, perhaps anyone else
with
>information on the system can post.
Any aftermarket ignition
amplifier is useless if the coils have not been
upgraded as well. Some of us
tested many amps and on every setrup the
problems came
back.
>De-gapping plugs has been the method we have had to deal
with ignition blow
>out under higher boost, as no ignition replacement or
modifier seemed
>available for our particular setup. The motorcycle coils
solution is an
>option currently being trialed, but his setup (MDS
DIS-4) seems like it
>might be the way to fly IMHO.
No, there seems
to be a misunderstanding. You can choose any other amp that
drives the coils
individually, i.e. totally decouples the stock transistors
that "load" the
coils. The DIS4 is the one with a little more features than
others but
that's it. The B&M New Volt and HKS Amp both increase the
voltage
to the coils that will let them get into higher saturation. The
stock coils
can't handle the higher energy. The DIS4 uses coil adapters to
simulate the
stock system that there are still some coils around (in fact
the adapters
ARE coils).
Ignition should be changed in the following order :
1.
higher energy coils (currently only the Acell are tested and good)
2.
amplifier (MSD and HKS are successfully tested with the above)
3. wires
(included with the Acell coils, but the boot to the plugs is not
great, MSD
or Magnecores can be attached too)
4. plugs (copper, stock and Iridiums 1
range colder are tested. Copper had
best results = largest
gap)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 11:01:32
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
S/C on a FWD (was: 350 HP {crank} on N/A)
Ya gotta watch this guy ---
he's going to try and lay down 600+ hp with
a RWD TransAm --- does the term
power on oversteer mean anything
to you he'll go off the track like a top. A
buck says he spins it at least
once.
Jim Berry
PS
--- the issue with the 350 HP FWD is that the wheels you're trying
to
steer with are also
the ones you're trying to spin with a bunch of
HP.
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Bob Forrest <
bf@bobforrest.com>
To: Geoff Mohler
<
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
> I guarantee you one thing if you S/C your FWD car tho...
> >
Forget open-track days...you'll be base-model slow in the turns..the
>
> power-on understeer will blow goat cheese.
>
---------------------------------->
>
> You sound like a RWD guy
now... :-) Remember the RWD vs FWD analogy of
> "pushing a
pencil through a curve" vs "pulling a pencil through a curve"?
> It still
makes sense that theoretically, anyway, it's easier to control
> "pulling"
than it is to control "pushing" that pencil.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 10:02:40
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
S/C on a FWD (was: 350 HP {crank} on N/A)
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
I guarantee you one thing if you S/C your FWD car tho...
> Forget
open-track days...you'll be base-model slow in the turns..the
> power-on
understeer will blow goat cheese.
-
---------------------------------->
You sound like a RWD guy
now... :-) Remember the RWD vs FWD analogy of
"pushing a pencil
through a curve" vs "pulling a pencil through a curve"?
It still makes sense
that theoretically, anyway, it's easier to control
"pulling" than it is to
control "pushing" that pencil. The complexities in
the FWD equation are
that you introduce torque-steer and that you're using
the same wheels to
brake as you are to accelerate. Both are controllable,
IMO, but it is
tough to master, I'll admit. Right now, at this power level,
I can
"pull" through a curve at a higher speed than a similarly powered
RWD
car. Friends with non-turbo RX7s, Mustangs, and 250 Vettes who have
been
passengers when I'm accelerating through decreasing- radius turns have
all
told me, "I just can't do that in my car".
On 'your side' of the
discussion, on a hairpin turn on a track, I'll have to
be cautious in
applying power until I've either pointed my car properly
through the line or
set up a power slide that has me pointing straight ahead
before I can gun
it. But isn't that the same way we do it in a RWD too?
The only
difference is that "too much power" with RWD will put you in a spin
in the
*same* direction you're turning. With FWD, you'll spin the
*opposite*
direction. Practice, practice, practice. It's a new
learning curve for
those of us who grew up on RWD, but I think I've got
enough of a feel for
the road to master it. No substitute for AWD, but
so far in open-tracking,
I've been thankful that I've had a FWD through those
turns... And that I'm
getting better at ebraking.
;-)
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 11:39:37
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: S/C on a FWD (was: 350 HP {crank} on N/A)
> Ya gotta watch this
guy --- he's going to try and lay down 600+ hp with a
RWD TransAm --- does
the term power on oversteer mean anything to you he'll
go off the track like
a top. A buck says he spins it at least
once.
> Jim
Berry>>>
Yeah, I've already got a photo of "Lawnboy" Mohler out
in the dirt with the
RX7 TT. His new name will be "Pinwheel" in the
TA. :-)
> PS --- the issue with the 350 HP FWD is that the
wheels you're trying to
steer with are also the ones you're trying to spin
with a bunch of HP.>>>
I'm not a dragger anymore, so I'm
considering an engine-safe, streetable
(CARB-approved) 250-275hp in a car
that weighs 3050. It's a new learning
curve compared to RWD, but
totally do-able. FWDs win races all the time.
And some of the new
high-hp compact cars from the shows are FWD, too. It's
just another
animal to tame.
The other "Lawnboy",
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 18:38:34
-0400
From: "SWC" <
gusteve@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: New Member w/ Rear Main Seal question
Hey All,
I wanted to
introduce myself to the list and ask a general question. I'm
the
original owner of a 92 Stealth R/T TT with 139k miles. Its green
with
beige interior, not cream-puff condition by any means, but not bad
overall.
The car has been in storage for about 18 months and I'm planning
on taking
it out to drive it this winter (I'm in Michigan). The reason
I parked it is
that it developed a major oil leak in the rear main seal (I
think - major
oil leak from passenger side (US) of engine)
My first
question is: If I buy a set of service manuals could I expect
a
reasonably skilled repair shop to fix this? Or should I only let a
dealer
touch it?
Also - when I parked the car I had planned on getting
it ready for long term
storage - then never got around to doing it. (I
know - major mistake).
Here was what I intended to do before I try and start
it - please add
anything that I might have overlooked:
Change Oil
& Filter
Pull the plugs and add a little oil to each cylinder (and leave
the plugs
out)
Drain the fuel rails and gas line (I added STABIL to the
tank but wasn't
able to run the car to send it through the whole fuel
system)
Change fuel filter
Crank the engine (with the plugs out)
Put in
new plugs and then try and start it.
Is this good? Have I left out
anything?
I was planning on having a local mechanic shop do this, and
also do a timing
belt at the same time (still has the original one with 139k
miles - pretty
amazing). Again, should this be a dealer-only
thing?
Thanks in advance for any advice. I'm planning to tweak the
engine a little
after I get it running so AFTER I read all the FAQ's I may
have more
questions. I've done turbo boost mods to another one of my
cars and it
really got me thinking about what could be possible with a
Stealth TT.......
Steve C. - Detroit, MI
92 Stealth R/T TT
93
Toyota MR2 Turbo (4.5 psi over stock)
96 Impala SS (minor mods)
70 Dodge
Charger R/T 440 (stock)
95 Ford Explorer (wife won't drive my
cars)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 08:53:53
+1000
From:
M.Korsinczky@mailbox.uq.edu.auSubject:
Team3S: coilovers
Hey all
Is anyone running coilovers?
If
so, which brand? What sort of improvement in handling did you
notice?
Does the front of the car feel any
lighter?
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 19:37:01
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New Member w/ Rear Main Seal question
Steve,
I would
expect that any skilled shop that you trust would be able to handle
the main
seal and 60K tune up. I would provide your service manuals if they
don't have them. The main seal will require removal of the
transmission so
you may want to think about replacing the clutch if it is
due (stock is fine
up to 400hp or so). Contrary to what the manual says, you
do not have to
remove the oil pan to replace the seal. I just drill a
1/8" hole in the
seal and screw a slide hammer into the hole and tap the
seal out. Has
worked every time.
Check out
www.manualcd.com. Everything you need
will be on this cd.
Good Luck,
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>The reason I parked it is
>that it
developed a major oil leak in the rear main seal (I think - major
>oil
leak from passenger side (US) of engine)
>
>My first question
is: If I buy a set of service manuals could I expect a
>reasonably
skilled repair shop to fix this? Or should I only let a
dealer
>touch it?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 23:29:49
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: S/C on a FWD (was: 350 HP {crank} on N/A)
We shall
see..
Weve decided on whos driving what.
Nissa in the RX&
group3, me in the TA group 3, and Ken in the TA in group
4.
I can do
four..coz..like, theres only -one- TA to drive. SO being about
10yrs
less expereienced than Ken, I'll build up seat time more gradually
in
G3.
On Sat, 13 Oct 2001, Bob Forrest wrote:
> > Ya gotta
watch this guy --- he's going to try and lay down 600+ hp with a
> RWD
TransAm --- does the term power on oversteer mean anything to you he'll
>
go off the track like a top. A buck says he spins it at least
once.
> > Jim
Berry>>>
>
> Yeah, I've already got a photo of "Lawnboy"
Mohler out in the dirt with the
> RX7 TT. His new name will be
"Pinwheel" in the TA. :-)
>
>
> > PS --- the issue
with the 350 HP FWD is that the wheels you're trying to
> steer with are
also the ones you're trying to spin with a bunch of HP.>>>
>
> I'm not a dragger anymore, so I'm considering an engine-safe,
streetable
> (CARB-approved) 250-275hp in a car that weighs 3050.
It's a new learning
> curve compared to RWD, but totally do-able.
FWDs win races all the time.
> And some of the new high-hp compact cars
from the shows are FWD, too. It's
> just another animal to
tame.
>
> The other "Lawnboy",
>
>
Forrest
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 23:27:55
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: S/C on a FWD (was: 350 HP {crank} on N/A)
Just because youve
happened to run into crap Fbody cars all the time,
doesnt mean they all
are.
I dont see any VR4s in NASCAR..
On Sat, 13 Oct 2001, Jim
Berry wrote:
> Ya gotta watch this guy --- he's going to try and lay
down 600+ hp with
> a RWD TransAm --- does the term power on oversteer
mean anything
> to you he'll go off the track like a top. A buck says he
spins it at least
> once.
>
> Jim Berry
>
> PS --- the issue with the 350 HP FWD is that the wheels you're trying
to
> steer
with are also the ones you're trying to spin with a bunch of
> HP.
>
==============================================
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 23:27:02
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: S/C on a FWD (was: 350 HP {crank} on N/A)
Nobody says you
have to lay down 600Hp in a turn Jim.
Durrrrr. :^)
On Sat,
13 Oct 2001, Jim Berry wrote:
> Ya gotta watch this guy --- he's going
to try and lay down 600+ hp with
> a RWD TransAm --- does the term power
on oversteer mean anything
> to you he'll go off the track like a top. A
buck says he spins it at least
> once.
>
> Jim Berry
>
> PS --- the issue with the 350 HP FWD is that the wheels you're trying
to
> steer
with are also the ones you're trying to spin with a bunch of
> HP.
>
==============================================
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 15:27:12
-0700
From: "Robert Koch" <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Back on board!!
I have been out for a while now.....used to be
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com but
now
its
ek2mfg@foxinternet.comready to
get back into the mix
bob K.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#645
***************************************