Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Sunday, October 14 2001   Volume 01 : Number 645




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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 18:29:50 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Coils was Iridiums

>The MDS DIS-4, is perhaps the most viable option  I have heard of, and
>until he recently gave me a heads
>up on it, I was unaware of it's existence.

I have the box with adapters installed since a year (or more) and one or
two pics are on my webpage. No gain on the dyno !

>  Maybe Richard can give you a low
>down on it, as he has me, or failing that, perhaps anyone else with
>information on the system can post.

Any aftermarket ignition amplifier is useless if the coils have not been
upgraded as well. Some of us tested many amps and on every setrup the
problems came back.

>De-gapping  plugs has been the method we have had to deal with ignition blow
>out under higher boost, as no ignition replacement or modifier seemed
>available for our particular setup. The motorcycle coils solution is an
>option currently being trialed, but his setup  (MDS DIS-4) seems like it
>might be the way to fly IMHO.

No, there seems to be a misunderstanding. You can choose any other amp that
drives the coils individually, i.e. totally decouples the stock transistors
that "load" the coils. The DIS4 is the one with a little more features than
others but that's it. The B&M New Volt  and HKS Amp both increase the
voltage to the coils that will let them get into higher saturation. The
stock coils can't handle the higher energy. The DIS4 uses coil adapters to
simulate the stock system that there are still some coils around (in fact
the adapters ARE coils).

Ignition should be changed in the following order :
1. higher energy coils (currently only the Acell are tested and good)
2. amplifier (MSD and HKS are successfully tested with the above)
3. wires (included with the Acell coils, but the boot to the plugs is not
great, MSD or Magnecores can be attached too)
4. plugs (copper, stock and Iridiums 1 range colder are tested. Copper had
best results = largest gap)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 11:01:32 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: S/C on a FWD (was: 350 HP {crank} on N/A)

Ya gotta watch this guy --- he's going to try and lay down 600+ hp with
a RWD TransAm --- does the term power on oversteer mean anything
to you he'll go off the track like a top. A buck says he spins it at least
once.

        Jim Berry

PS --- the issue with the 350 HP FWD is that the wheels you're trying to
          steer with are also the ones you're trying to spin with a bunch of
          HP.
==============================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Forrest <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
> > I guarantee you one thing if you S/C your FWD car tho...
> > Forget open-track days...you'll be base-model slow in the turns..the
> > power-on understeer will blow goat cheese.
> ---------------------------------->
>
> You sound like a RWD guy now...  :-)  Remember the RWD vs FWD analogy of
> "pushing a pencil through a curve" vs "pulling a pencil through a curve"?
> It still makes sense that theoretically, anyway, it's easier to control
> "pulling" than it is to control "pushing" that pencil. 


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 10:02:40 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: S/C on a FWD (was: 350 HP {crank} on N/A)

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
> I guarantee you one thing if you S/C your FWD car tho...
> Forget open-track days...you'll be base-model slow in the turns..the
> power-on understeer will blow goat cheese.
- ---------------------------------->

You sound like a RWD guy now...  :-)  Remember the RWD vs FWD analogy of
"pushing a pencil through a curve" vs "pulling a pencil through a curve"?
It still makes sense that theoretically, anyway, it's easier to control
"pulling" than it is to control "pushing" that pencil.  The complexities in
the FWD equation are that you introduce torque-steer and that you're using
the same wheels to brake as you are to accelerate.  Both are controllable,
IMO, but it is tough to master, I'll admit.  Right now, at this power level,
I can "pull" through a curve at a higher speed than a similarly powered RWD
car.  Friends with non-turbo RX7s, Mustangs, and 250 Vettes who have been
passengers when I'm accelerating through decreasing- radius turns have all
told me, "I just can't do that in my car".

On 'your side' of the discussion, on a hairpin turn on a track, I'll have to
be cautious in applying power until I've either pointed my car properly
through the line or set up a power slide that has me pointing straight ahead
before I can gun it.  But isn't that the same way we do it in a RWD too?
The only difference is that "too much power" with RWD will put you in a spin
in the *same* direction you're turning. With FWD, you'll spin the *opposite*
direction.  Practice, practice, practice.  It's a new learning curve for
those of us who grew up on RWD, but I think I've got enough of a feel for
the road to master it.  No substitute for AWD, but so far in open-tracking,
I've been thankful that I've had a FWD through those turns...  And that I'm
getting better at ebraking.  ;-)

Best,

Forrest

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 11:39:37 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: S/C on a FWD (was: 350 HP {crank} on N/A)

> Ya gotta watch this guy --- he's going to try and lay down 600+ hp with a
RWD TransAm --- does the term power on oversteer mean anything to you he'll
go off the track like a top. A buck says he spins it at least  once.
>         Jim Berry>>>

Yeah, I've already got a photo of "Lawnboy" Mohler out in the dirt with the
RX7 TT.  His new name will be "Pinwheel" in the TA.  :-)


> PS --- the issue with the 350 HP FWD is that the wheels you're trying to
steer with are also the ones you're trying to spin with a bunch of HP.>>>

I'm not a dragger anymore, so I'm considering an engine-safe, streetable
(CARB-approved) 250-275hp in a car that weighs 3050.  It's a new learning
curve compared to RWD, but totally do-able.  FWDs win races all the time.
And some of the new high-hp compact cars from the shows are FWD, too.  It's
just another animal to tame.

The other "Lawnboy",

Forrest

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 18:38:34 -0400
From: "SWC" <gusteve@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: New Member w/ Rear Main Seal question

Hey All,

I wanted to introduce myself to the list and ask a general question.  I'm
the original owner of a 92 Stealth R/T TT with 139k miles.  Its green with
beige interior, not cream-puff condition by any means, but not bad overall.

The car has been in storage for about 18 months and I'm planning on taking
it out to drive it this winter (I'm in Michigan).  The reason I parked it is
that it developed a major oil leak in the rear main seal (I think - major
oil leak from passenger side (US) of engine)

My first question is:  If I buy a set of service manuals could I expect a
reasonably skilled repair shop to fix this?  Or should I only let a dealer
touch it?

Also - when I parked the car I had planned on getting it ready for long term
storage - then never got around to doing it.  (I know - major mistake).
Here was what I intended to do before I try and start it - please add
anything that I might have overlooked:

Change Oil & Filter
Pull the plugs and add a little oil to each cylinder (and leave the plugs
out)
Drain the fuel rails and gas line (I added STABIL to the tank but wasn't
able to run the car to send it through the whole fuel system)
Change fuel filter
Crank the engine (with the plugs out)
Put in new plugs and then try and start it.

Is this good?  Have I left out anything?

I was planning on having a local mechanic shop do this, and also do a timing
belt at the same time (still has the original one with 139k miles - pretty
amazing).  Again,  should this be a dealer-only thing?

Thanks in advance for any advice.  I'm planning to tweak the engine a little
after I get it running so AFTER I read all the FAQ's I may have more
questions.  I've done turbo boost mods to another one of my cars and it
really got me thinking about what could be possible with a Stealth TT.......

Steve C. - Detroit, MI
92 Stealth R/T TT
93 Toyota MR2 Turbo (4.5 psi over stock)
96 Impala SS (minor mods)
70 Dodge Charger R/T 440 (stock)
95 Ford Explorer (wife won't drive my cars)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 08:53:53 +1000
From: M.Korsinczky@mailbox.uq.edu.au
Subject: Team3S: coilovers

Hey all

Is anyone running coilovers?

If so, which brand?  What sort of improvement in handling did you notice?

Does the front of the car feel any lighter?

Michael

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 19:37:01 -0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Member w/ Rear Main Seal question

Steve,

I would expect that any skilled shop that you trust would be able to handle
the main seal and 60K tune up.  I would provide your service manuals if they
don't have them.  The main seal will require removal of the transmission so
you may want to think about replacing the clutch if it is due (stock is fine
up to 400hp or so). Contrary to what the manual says, you do not have to
remove the oil pan to replace the seal.  I just drill a 1/8" hole in the
seal and screw a slide hammer into the hole and tap the seal out.  Has
worked every time.

Check out www.manualcd.com.  Everything you need will be on this cd.

Good Luck,

Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT

>The reason I parked it is
>that it developed a major oil leak in the rear main seal (I think - major
>oil leak from passenger side (US) of engine)
>
>My first question is:  If I buy a set of service manuals could I expect a
>reasonably skilled repair shop to fix this?  Or should I only let a dealer
>touch it?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 23:29:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: S/C on a FWD (was: 350 HP {crank} on N/A)

We shall see..

Weve decided on whos driving what.

Nissa in the RX& group3, me in the TA group 3, and Ken in the TA in group
4.

I can do four..coz..like, theres only -one- TA to drive.  SO being about
10yrs less expereienced than Ken, I'll build up seat time more gradually
in G3.

On Sat, 13 Oct 2001, Bob Forrest wrote:

> > Ya gotta watch this guy --- he's going to try and lay down 600+ hp with a
> RWD TransAm --- does the term power on oversteer mean anything to you he'll
> go off the track like a top. A buck says he spins it at least  once.
> >         Jim Berry>>>
>
> Yeah, I've already got a photo of "Lawnboy" Mohler out in the dirt with the
> RX7 TT.  His new name will be "Pinwheel" in the TA.  :-)
>
>
> > PS --- the issue with the 350 HP FWD is that the wheels you're trying to
> steer with are also the ones you're trying to spin with a bunch of HP.>>>
>
> I'm not a dragger anymore, so I'm considering an engine-safe, streetable
> (CARB-approved) 250-275hp in a car that weighs 3050.  It's a new learning
> curve compared to RWD, but totally do-able.  FWDs win races all the time.
> And some of the new high-hp compact cars from the shows are FWD, too.  It's
> just another animal to tame.
>
> The other "Lawnboy",
>
> Forrest

Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 23:27:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: S/C on a FWD (was: 350 HP {crank} on N/A)

Just because youve happened to run into crap Fbody cars all the time,
doesnt mean they all are.

I dont see any VR4s in NASCAR..

On Sat, 13 Oct 2001, Jim Berry wrote:

> Ya gotta watch this guy --- he's going to try and lay down 600+ hp with
> a RWD TransAm --- does the term power on oversteer mean anything
> to you he'll go off the track like a top. A buck says he spins it at least
> once.
>
>         Jim Berry
>
> PS --- the issue with the 350 HP FWD is that the wheels you're trying to
>           steer with are also the ones you're trying to spin with a bunch of
>           HP.
> ==============================================

Geoff Mohler


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 23:27:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: S/C on a FWD (was: 350 HP {crank} on N/A)

Nobody says you have to lay down 600Hp in a turn Jim.

Durrrrr.  :^)

On Sat, 13 Oct 2001, Jim Berry wrote:

> Ya gotta watch this guy --- he's going to try and lay down 600+ hp with
> a RWD TransAm --- does the term power on oversteer mean anything
> to you he'll go off the track like a top. A buck says he spins it at least
> once.
>
>         Jim Berry
>
> PS --- the issue with the 350 HP FWD is that the wheels you're trying to
>           steer with are also the ones you're trying to spin with a bunch of
>           HP.
> ==============================================

Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 15:27:12 -0700
From: "Robert Koch" <eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject: Team3S: Back on board!!

I have been out for a while now.....used to be eK2mfg@foxinternet.com but
now its ek2mfg@foxinternet.com

ready to get back into the mix

bob K.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #645
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