Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Saturday, October 13 2001  Volume 01 : Number 644




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Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 09:59:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: AmkreadGTO <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: S. CA Road Racing @ Willow Springs on 11/10 & 11/11

Hello All,

Please visit below url for more info..

http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=a6723574366bcb34a29ca4bb749da8cb&threadid=47027

Post a message if you would like to go... or feel free
to contact me directly if you don't have a board
acct...  See yall there~ Thanks!

Best,
George =)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:11:13 -0700
From: Rick <melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Team3S: mobil 1 WalMart

 If anyone cares,WalMart is selling a 5 qt.container of Mobil 1 oil for
are cars for $17.88 ,compared to the $4.47 it sells for by the qt.Thats
like a qt. for free.
RICK
'92 R/T TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:49:58 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: So nice to have money!!

I have spoken of my ROWG buddy who owns the ZO6 Corvette, $100,000 Camaro,
Contour SVT, Cadillac STS, new Ford 250 turbo diesel crew cab pickup truck,
and a 40 ft enclosed trailer to haul everything to open track events.

He just bought a brand new, 2002 silver M5 for $80,000 to replace the
Cadillac as his company car. It's an interim car, because he has a black M5
on order, and will trade when the black one gets here. He just couldn't
stand the wait.

Just thought I'd make your day.
*Sigh*
I guess it's nice that somebody is keeping the car dealers in business and
creating inflation all by himself.

My only hope is that the new Stillen downpipe, boost controller (some
day!), and a new set of Yoko 032R race tires will be enough to beat that
Z06 Corvette. That'll frost his ROWG butt!

Rich/94 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 13:38:41 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Coolant problem

Stephen:  It sounds like it would be worth the money to have your old heater
core pressure tested. A radiator shop should be able to do this very
cheaply. This will tell you if it was really necessary to replace it. If it
checks out ok then the problem had to be something else. Was there ever any
coolant inside the car that you could feel or see? If so, then one of the
hoses from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment had to have
a problem. It would be in the hose itself, or at the connection to the
heater core.

If these were not a problem, then something else went wrong. Were you having
to add coolant, either frequently, or infrequestly?

Were there any puddles under the car?

Are there any green stains on the pavement that would point to something?

If the system over pressureizes it will expel coolant out the overflow
valve. If the overflow hose does not go down far enough the fluid can go
almost anywhere.

Andy

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 13:46:34 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 70w80 Redline ????

Chuck:  Actually, you were quite correct. Jeff's website says, however, that
the ideal mix should have a highside of 85 and that is why he mixes MTL with
MTL90. Personally, my car is running fine on MTL.

As a result of reading red lines info, however, I am wondering if I should
switch to red line 10w40. Any thoughts on this. Right now I run Castrol
20-50 and change it every 3k.

Andy

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 20:20:06 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 350 HP  (crank) on N/A

JMHO,

    Isn't it cheaper (and better in the long run) to take the money from
those mods, plus sell the NA car, and buy a vr4? I mean 125 + the stock 216
(?) puts you just above the 320 mark of a stock vr4/rt tt? Plus aren't there
more mods available for the tt cars? Plus set aside $500, get a Blitz DSBC
and put yerself up past the 350 mark...

    Don't mean to offend anybody,  just a thought.

Alex

'95 VR4

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To: <stealth@starnet.net>
Cc: "Starnet" <stealth@stls.verio.net>; "'Team3S'"
<team3s@mail.speedtoys.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 6:46 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A

> You for got timing..you -have- to tune timing to really achieve good
> power.
>
> Apexi ITC.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 18:33:31 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 350 HP  (crank) on N/A

on the plus side --- the NA is several hundred pounds lighter and the
insurance has to be considerably less.

        Jim Berry
===========================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Alex Pedenko <apedenko@home.com>

> JMHO,
>
>     Isn't it cheaper (and better in the long run) to take the money from
> those mods, plus sell the NA car, and buy a vr4? I mean 125 + the stock 216
> (?) puts you just above the 320 mark of a stock vr4/rt tt? Plus aren't there
> more mods available for the tt cars? Plus set aside $500, get a Blitz DSBC
> and put yerself up past the 350 mark...
>
>     Don't mean to offend anybody,  just a thought.
>
> Alex
> '95 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 19:06:40 -0700
From: Rich Fowler <richfowler2@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: FS-TMO Datalogger

If anyone is interested, I'm selling a TMO datalogger.  This includes the
original software (never registered), cable, and instructions.  For more
information on the TMO and it's capabilities, visit the tmo website at
www.tmo.com.  I would be very happy with $225 but will settle for best
offer.  Send me an email - off the list - if you are interested.  I'd rather
this go to someone in the 3s community first than the DSM guys!

Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 19:11:33 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 350 HP  (crank) on N/A

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
> on the plus side --- the NA is several hundred pounds lighter and the
insurance has to be considerably less.
>         Jim Berry

The insurance for a Base NT is 1/2 that of the turbos, but for the ES, RT,
and SL it's only about 40% less.

In the case of a '94 Base NT Stealth vs. a '94 VR4, the weight difference is
740 lbs.  A $4000 supercharger kit will put a Base in the 275hp area.  With
700lbs less and no turbo lag, there's competition there.  :-)  And cheaper.

Best,

Forrest

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 21:22:33 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: 350 HP  (crank) on N/A

> on the plus side --- the NA is several hundred pounds
> lighter and the insurance has to be considerably less.

You could transplant a TT motor and turbos into a NA car if high horsepower
was the goal as well.  Then 600HP is fairly obtainable.  Just put money
aside for the string of tranny parts you may need to replace on the FWD
tranny.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 20:55:12 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: 350 HP  (crank) on N/A

You could, it's already been done! He calls it the ESX. I want to say
his name is Jeff, not sure though, almost positive it starts with a J
though. Aaahhh, found it! Jeff VanOrsdal.
http://www.geocities.com/jvanorsdal/ is his site. I don't think it is
terribly up to date though.

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 7:23 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A


> on the plus side --- the NA is several hundred pounds
> lighter and the insurance has to be considerably less.

You could transplant a TT motor and turbos into a NA car if high
horsepower was the goal as well.  Then 600HP is fairly obtainable.  Just
put money aside for the string of tranny parts you may need to replace
on the FWD tranny.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 22:00:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 350 HP  (crank) on N/A

I guarantee you one thing if you S/C your FWD car tho...

Forget open-track days...you'll be base-model slow in the turns..the
power-on understeer will blow goat cheese.

On Fri, 12 Oct 2001, Bob Forrest wrote:

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
> > on the plus side --- the NA is several hundred pounds lighter and the
> insurance has to be considerably less.
> >         Jim Berry
>
> The insurance for a Base NT is 1/2 that of the turbos, but for the ES, RT,
> and SL it's only about 40% less.
>
> In the case of a '94 Base NT Stealth vs. a '94 VR4, the weight difference is
> 740 lbs.  A $4000 supercharger kit will put a Base in the 275hp area.  With
> 700lbs less and no turbo lag, there's competition there.  :-)  And cheaper.
>
> Best,
>
> Forrest

Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 22:01:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: 350 HP  (crank) on N/A

Yes, but you put yourself into a dangerous position with the insurance
company if you do that.  They technically only insure what came in the
car..and that -can- be interpreted as only if the same basic motor is ever
used in it.

On Fri, 12 Oct 2001, Jannusch, Matt wrote:

> > on the plus side --- the NA is several hundred pounds
> > lighter and the insurance has to be considerably less.
>
> You could transplant a TT motor and turbos into a NA car if high horsepower
> was the goal as well.  Then 600HP is fairly obtainable.  Just put money
> aside for the string of tranny parts you may need to replace on the FWD
> tranny.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 20:51:13 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: 350 HP  (crank) on N/A

Oh yah - I know...  but.... 

My car is in so many pieces no one would ever buy it...  and...
everyone has a fast TT...  no one has a real fast NT...  not to mention,
the NT starts out 600 pounds lighter...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Alex Pedenko
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 8:20 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A

JMHO,

    Isn't it cheaper (and better in the long run) to take the money from
those mods, plus sell the NA car, and buy a vr4? I mean 125 + the stock
216
(?) puts you just above the 320 mark of a stock vr4/rt tt? Plus aren't
there
more mods available for the tt cars? Plus set aside $500, get a Blitz
DSBC
and put yerself up past the 350 mark...

    Don't mean to offend anybody,  just a thought.

Alex

'95 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 10:14:36 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Denso Iridiums

No hiding of opinions necessary :-)

Iridiums in the stock heatrange do not help anything. In fact they are
getting worser after a few thousand miles. One or two range colder worked.

BUT : The latest findings are the Acell motorcacle coils together with a
capacitive discharge amplifier that work at their best in conjunction with
coppers one range colder. I is not yet proven how well the setup works with
Iridiums but there is just no need for those expensive stuff. As said the
most improvement come from upgrading the coisl and the electronics that
drive them.

No logs available at all, but people report no more spark blowout even at
25psi (well, sort of). I do not have the coils in right now as the car is
still in the break in period.... but I have em ready :)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

> Actually, could Roger private me on his opinion?
> ::Anyone with time logged on Denso Iridium's, please respond on your
opinion
> ::of their performance...as say opposed to the NGK platinum's.
> ::Roger, you need
> ::not respond ;-)) I already know how you feel about the ;-).
> ::
> ::Respond to me privately, or to the Team if you feel it is worthy of
being
> ::filed for future reference in the archives.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 10:26:01 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 350 HP  (crank) on N/A

> Does anyone think this is possible without Nitrous.  It would be roughly a
125 HP jump on a N/A car.

No

> Forged Pistons

No gain

> Forged Rods

no gain

> Knife-Edged Crank

A little hp some torque... but not much.

> (.050 overbore)

8-10hp

> (possible stroke conversion)

recalcualte the engine !

> (probable 12:1 CR)

kills the heads and gaskets

> Rebuilt upper end (reworked heads, possible ti valve springs)

Springs will let you rev higher, maybe 12 hp more at most

> Throttle Body

no gain

> Port-matched intake and exhaust

1-2hp on an NA

> 550 CC injectors

no need, no gain

> Fuel Pump

no need, no gain

> Extrude honed intake

Maybe 4 hp

> Fuel Management (still need some help on this one)

no need, stock ECU adapts over soem time.

> Any other suggestions???

The ITC was mentioned ... advancing the timing is dangerous if not tuned in
with a datalogger

The Knight Supercharger or nitrous is the only solution that is cheap.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 10:18:19 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: blowing black smoke

Black smoke is indeed a sign for overrich conditions, injectors in one part
but more possible are defective O2 sensor(s).

Regarding the cleaning Wayne mentioned, my Mitsu dealer does have a fuel
rail adapter where he can push in the cleaner fluid when the car is running.
But this stuff is pure acid and smelled like hell !!

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne" <whietala@prodigy.net>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 4:55 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: blowing black smoke

> At 11:10 AM 10/11/01 , Tim & Marina Furbush wrote:
> >Everything has been great for 106000 miles, but now today it's blowing
black
> >smoke.  The plugs are black (Bosch Plat). The engine is running rough and
> >it's coughing at all RPMs.
> >Tim
>
> Sounds to me like you have dirty or leaky injectors. You might want to try
> getting them cleaned (the type of cleaning that puts the cleaner in @ the
> fuel rails, not the tank)
>
> Wayne

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 01:29:25 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: blowing black smoke

Putting it in at the rails is the only way to do it.
I had this same problem (black smoke along with serious hesitation and
misfiring) with a car some years ago........after way too much
troubleshooting, it turned out to be the injectors.....I would start there.

Wayne

At 01:18 AM 10/13/01 , Roger Gerl wrote:
>Black smoke is indeed a sign for overrich conditions, injectors in one part
>but more possible are defective O2 sensor(s).
>
>Regarding the cleaning Wayne mentioned, my Mitsu dealer does have a fuel
>rail adapter where he can push in the cleaner fluid when the car is running.
>But this stuff is pure acid and smelled like hell !!
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>www.rtec.ch
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Wayne" <whietala@prodigy.net>
>To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent: Friday, October 12, 2001 4:55 AM
>Subject: Re: Team3S: blowing black smoke
>
>
> > At 11:10 AM 10/11/01 , Tim & Marina Furbush wrote:
> > >Everything has been great for 106000 miles, but now today it's blowing
>black
> > >smoke.  The plugs are black (Bosch Plat). The engine is running rough and
> > >it's coughing at all RPMs.
> > >Tim
> >
> > Sounds to me like you have dirty or leaky injectors. You might want to try
> > getting them cleaned (the type of cleaning that puts the cleaner in @ the
> > fuel rails, not the tank)
> >
> > Wayne

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 09:48:15 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: 350 HP  (crank) on N/A

> Yes, but you put yourself into a dangerous position
> with the insurance company if you do that.  They
> technically only insure what came in the car..and
> that -can- be interpreted as only if the same basic
> motor is ever used in it.

...they could probably deny an insurance claim on a naturally-aspirated car
with a nitrous bottle in it too if they wanted to. 

Its probably more likely they'd deny a claim if you've had a string of
accidents and/or tickets, in which case making a faster car might not be the
wisest course of action anyway.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 09:06:23 -0700
From: "Darc" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: Coils was Iridiums

As a result of my request for information on Iridium's I got into an
interesting sideband discussion with a Team member who is running a very
viable option to our Ignition/coil system. The MDS DIS-4, is perhaps the
most viable option  I have heard of, and until he recently gave me a heads
up on it, I was unaware of it's existence. Maybe Richard can give you a low
down on it, as he has me, or failing that, perhaps anyone else with
information on the system can post.

De-gapping  plugs has been the method we have had to deal with ignition blow
out under higher boost, as no ignition replacement or modifier seemed
available for our particular setup. The motorcycle coils solution is an
option currently being trialed, but his setup  (MDS DIS-4) seems like it
might be the way to fly IMHO.

Best

Darc

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 10:40:31 -0600
From: "Will Fortenberry" <VR4_3000GT@msn.com>
Subject: Team3S: Turbo Timer Malfunction

Guys,

I have a '94 VR-4 with an HKS Type 1 turbo timer installed. The timer has
worked just fine for months, until recently. My dome light was left on over
night and killed the battery. I jump started the car in the morning and
everything was fine.
Now, the car shuts off but the timer stays on. When you take the key out,
the turbo timer counts down just fine, and then turns itself off, but the
car shuts off as soon as you take the key out (i.e. doesn't stay on with the
timer).
Any ideas? Any info would help.

Will

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #644
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