Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, October 12
2001 Volume 01 : Number
643
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Oct 2001 11:11:21 +0200 (MEST)
From: <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Re: Team3S: 91-95 Stillen Downpipe
Yes, it does have a section after
the rear inlet.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- original Nachricht
--------
Does the Stillen pipe have any flexpipe section (like
the stock)
to absorb vibration/stress and prevent
cracking?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 06:03:32
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: 91-95 Stillen Downpipe
> Does the Stillen pipe have any
flexpipe section (like
> the stock) to absorb vibration/stress and
prevent
> cracking?
Yes, the Stillen Pipe has a Stainless
Steel Braided Flexi Section.
Paul Butkiewicz
Diablo
Enterprises
Norwood, MA 02062-4012
Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 08:39:44
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 70w80 Redline ????
Isn't the MTL 90 actually
75W90?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rick
[SMTP:melvin@gamewood.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 8:08
PM
> To: Andrew D. Woll
> Cc:
stealth@starnet.net; Team3S
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 70w80 Redline ????
>
> Thanks,I don't
see why there would be any problems.I always have thought
> 90wt
>
was too heavy anyway.
> RICK
> '92 R/T TT
>
> "Andrew
D. Woll" wrote:
>
> > Rick - Yes - I am using 70-80MTL with no
problems. Jeff recommends
> mixing
> > this with MTL 90 but no
one around Sacramento sold MTL 90 and I was too
> lazy
> > to get
it mail order. The regular MTL is working just fine.
> >
> >
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 08:44:55
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car still won't start update.
I would disconnect the
connector to the Mass Air Flow Sensor and clean the
contacts with contact
cleaner ($2) before I spent $400. Might be a broken
wire in the
connector, too.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Sportsmobile101@aol.com
[SMTP:Sportsmobile101@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 8:55
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Car still won't start update.
>
> Hi
team, thanks for all the responses i've received, i appreciate it.
I
>
> still haven't been able to start the car, but i think i may
have found the
>
> problem. Everyone seems to agree that it
is an electrical problem. So i
> had
> my buddy borrow a
scanner and hooked it up the computer in my car, and i
> got
> a 13
code and a 25 code. The first code said i had a bad Barometric
>
pressure
> sensor problem , and in the book it said tha it was located in
the Mass
> airflow sensor housing. The other code said i had an air
intake temp
> cicuit
> problem also in the Mass Air Flow
sensor. Now my question is, can i trust
>
> the scanner and
buy a 400 dollar sensor? Or is there a way to find out
> for
> sure that that is the problem. It would be simple if i knew
someone with
> a
> 3000GT in the area that would be willing to let
me just hook up the sensor
> to
> test it. But i don't know
anyone that has these cars. Any suggestions??
> Please let me know.
Thanks.
> Truly,
> Christian.
> 92 SL
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 08:48:12
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: car won't start
How about a wrecking yard? Actually
there was this post from a 16 year old
who just totalled his '91 VR4 -
do you think the Mass Air Flow Sensor was
still good?
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
Sportsmobile101@aol.com
[SMTP:Sportsmobile101@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 11:36
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: car won't start
>
> Darc i did
check the connection a couple of times, i also cleaned the
> connectors
just to make sure but no luck. I think i did tried to start
> the
> car with it unplugged but no results either. I live in Santa
Rosa, CA if
> anyone from the list lives around here drop me a
note. By the way Santa
> Rosa
> is about 45 miles north of
San Francisco. Rich do you know which store
> would
> carry
this sensor? I tried Kragen and Pep-boys but they dont' sell it.
> The
> dealer wants close to $400 fot it and all buys are final. Please
advice.
> Thanks.
> Christian.
> 92 SL.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 07:16:33
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 70w80 Redline ????
Here is what redline has to say
Chuck:
"Red Line MTL is classified as a 70W80 gear lubricant satisfying
the API
Service requirements of GL-3 and GL-4. MTL also satisfies motor
oil
viscosities SAE 5W/10W/30, and the viscosity requirements for ATFs. MT-90
is
a 75W90 GL-4 and also satisfies motor oil viscosities SAE 10W/15W/40.
The
additive chemistry used is non-corrosive, so even though they will
provide
GL-4 performance, they will not corrode synchros or bushings. Because
of its
low corrosivity, Red Line MTL and MT-90 could also be used in
transmissions
requiring GL-1 or GL-3 lubricants. Seal compatibility is
designed to be
similar to petroleum-based lubricants.
"
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 07:55:09
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 70w80 Redline ????
More info on Red Line (two words guys)
products on my web pages
below. These are scanned copies of their technical
brochures.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-mtl-tech.htmhttp://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-gearoil-tech.htmhttp://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius5/j5-2-motoroil-tech.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 07:36:40
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
car won't start
Check the 3Si 'for sale' board --- they have those for
sale quite often.
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/forumdisplay.php?s=c2f97321ea0e1c4b6523b1ed3736e3fd&forumid=4
Jim Berry
=================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
Sportsmobile101@aol.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, October 10, 2001 9:36 PM
Subject: Team3S: car won't
start
> Darc i did check the connection a couple
of times, i also cleaned the
> connectors just to make sure but no
luck. I think i did tried to start the
> car with it unplugged but
no results either. I live in Santa Rosa, CA if
> anyone from the
list lives around here drop me a note. By the way Santa Rosa
> is
about 45 miles north of San Francisco. Rich do you know which store would
> carry this sensor? I tried Kragen and Pep-boys but they dont' sell
it. The
> dealer wants close to $400 fot it and all buys are
final. Please advice.
> Thanks.
> Christian.
> 92
SL.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 11:39:59
-0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: update on gauges group buy
I got a reply from the guy about the
indiglo gauges. He has two types, one 5-color and the other 6-color
(silver numbers with GTO)
The prices are the same for NA or TT, and
he is willing to sell the 6-color to us for $110 shipped. He has them
listed n ebay for
$119 plus shipping. Here is a link to them:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=596556266&r=0&t=0He
also sells the 5-color set with black numbers, and it is a little cheaper.
But I don't have a price yet.
If interested, please contact him at:
voodoojuju@hotmail.com and tell him it
is from a group buy and he will give you the discount.
I am also looking
to create a set of decals to put on there, since he doesn't have any with VR-4
on it. If anyone is interested,
please let me
know.
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 10:50:18
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 70w80 Redline ????
I stand corrected (sit
corrected?)!
It was the MT-90 I was thinking of, that's really 75W90
which is what I use
in my VR4's. I think my son might be running
MTL, but don't know for sure.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Andrew D. Woll [SMTP:awoll1@pacbell.net]
>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 9:17 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
>
Cc:
stealth@starnet.net; Team3S
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 70w80 Redline ????
>
> Here is what redline
has to say Chuck:
>
> "Red Line MTL is classified as a 70W80 gear
lubricant satisfying the API
> Service requirements of GL-3 and GL-4. MTL
also satisfies motor oil
> viscosities SAE 5W/10W/30, and the viscosity
requirements for ATFs. MT-90
> is
> a 75W90 GL-4 and also satisfies
motor oil viscosities SAE 10W/15W/40. The
> additive chemistry used is
non-corrosive, so even though they will provide
> GL-4 performance, they
will not corrode synchros or bushings. Because of
> its
> low
corrosivity, Red Line MTL and MT-90 could also be used in
>
transmissions
> requiring GL-1 or GL-3 lubricants. Seal compatibility is
designed to be
> similar to petroleum-based lubricants. "
>
>
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 11:00:29
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: High Compression N/A
Got a few questions regarding compression
ratios.
I am just looking for information now, but with any luck,
what I'm
working on will pan out, and be able to follow through with
this:
What would be the max streetable compression ratio pistons I
could go
with? (using 92-94 octane fuel?) Has anyone actually
done this to a
3/S? I was personally thinking 12 or
12.5:1
Who could I contact about having these pistons made/where
could I find a
set? I would also be looking for some heavy duty units
to use with
large amounts of nitrous.
Connecting Rods - Will the
non-turbos use the same rods as a turbo?
Crank - Would want a
factory new crank is the best way to go right?
What treatments are the best -
and is it worth it/safe for a street car
to have the crank
knife-edged?
Fuel - What is the absolute best fuel management that
will work with a
N/A??? I would want something that is finely
adjustable, and I know it
would be tuned on the dyno with maybe some presets
such as Max HP, and
another for maybe - everyday cruising?
Valves and Valvesprings - Where to even start? I never even
looked into
these.
Rev limiter - I would want that removed, is
the G-Force ECU the only
way???
Thanks for any
help
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 10:24:57
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: High Compression N/A
Pistons: I would guess that some (or
all?) of the manufacturers I
list on my Piston Upgrade web page will work
with you. It will cost
you though. Plan on ~$1000 for 6 custom pistons and
pins.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-pistonguide.htmRods:
CAPS lists MD131329 for both Z11A and Z16A DOHC engines (all
years). Of
course, there is also Carrillo, Crower, and Pauter (check
out their web
sites). My rod upgrade web page is still in the
research stage.
Crank:
CAPS lists MD318150 (latest steel, surface-treated crank) for
both Z11A and
Z16A DOHC engines (all years as replacement).
Fuel: Check with GT PRO
about their new stand alone system - would
take care of rev limiter problem
also.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: cody
To: 'Team3S'
Sent: Thursday, October 11,
2001 10:00 AM
Subject: Team3S: High Compression N/A
Got a few
questions regarding compression ratios.
I am just looking for
information now, but with any luck, what I’m
working on will pan out, and be
able to follow through with this:
What would be the max streetable
compression ratio pistons I could go
with? (using 92-94 octane
fuel?) Has anyone actually done this to a
3/S? I was personally
thinking 12 or 12.5:1
Who could I contact about having these
pistons made/where could I
find a set? I would also be looking for some
heavy duty units to use
with large amounts of
nitrous.
Connecting Rods – Will the non-turbos use the same rods as
a turbo?
Crank – Would want a factory new crank is the best way to
go right?
What treatments are the best – and is it worth it/safe for a
street
car to have the crank knife-edged?
Fuel – What is the
absolute best fuel management that will work with
a N/A??? I would want
something that is finely adjustable, and I
know it would be tuned on the dyno
with maybe some presets such as
Max HP, and another for maybe – everyday
cruising?
Valves and Valvesprings – Where to even
start? I never even looked
into these…
Rev limiter – I
would want that removed, is the G-Force ECU the
only
way???
Thanks for any help
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 12:39:31
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rods/Pistons
> Rods: CAPS lists MD131329 for both Z11A and
Z16A DOHC engines
> (all years). Of course, there is also Carrillo,
Crower, and
> Pauter (check out their web sites). My rod upgrade web page
> is still in the research stage.
Has anyone weighed some of these
alternate rods against a set of stock rods?
The Ross pistons I got are about
20 grams heavier (each) than the stock
pistons, so if the rods are heavier
also then balancing is going to be more
difficult. My machine shop was
able to balance the whole rotating assembly
with the Ross pistons and stock
rods, but any more imbalance would've made
it more difficult to do so
(probably would've had to add weight to the
counterbalancers which is more
machine work = more expensive).
> Fuel: Check with GT PRO about their
new stand alone system -
> would take care of rev limiter problem
also.
Does anyone have more info on this thing
(features/cost/logging/reality)?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 13:55:03
-0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: car
won't start
If the car doesnt start with the MAS unplugged, the MAS isnt
the problem.
You might remember i mentioned this exact situation happened
with my friends
TT.. the ECU threw both the codes you got.. both for
different sensors in
the MAS. We tried a good MAS that mike generously lent
us from AAM.. and
still nothing. If everything else is working right.. the
car SHOULD start
with no MAS.. I still think it's the crank angle sensor.
Don't want you
spending money on something that doesnt solve your problem :(
Been there
done that.
Omar Malik
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of
Sportsmobile101@aol.comSent:
Thursday, October 11, 2001 12:36 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: car won't start
Darc i did check the connection a
couple of times, i also cleaned the
connectors just to make sure but no
luck. I think i did tried to start the
car with it unplugged but no
results either. I live in Santa Rosa, CA if
anyone from the list lives
around here drop me a note. By the way Santa
Rosa
is about 45 miles
north of San Francisco. Rich do you know which store
would
carry
this sensor? I tried Kragen and Pep-boys but they dont' sell it.
The
dealer wants close to $400 fot it and all buys are final. Please
advice.
Thanks.
Christian.
92 SL.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 14:10:56
-0400
From: "Tim & Marina Furbush" <
furbush4@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: blowing black smoke
Everything has been great for 106000 miles,
but now today it's blowing black
smoke. The plugs are black (Bosch
Plat). The engine is running rough and
it's coughing at all RPMs.
I
have a 93 Base stealth
minor mods: K&N filter
resonator bottle
removed
Cat back performance exhaust
8mm plug wires
syntec oil sense
birth...
I know it sounds like it's running rich, but why. I
unplugged the battery
to reset everything. The idle is back to normal but
everything else is the
same....
Tim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 14:15:46
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: blowing black smoke
> Everything has been great for 106000
miles, but now today
> it's blowing black smoke. The plugs are
black (Bosch Plat).
> The engine is running rough and it's coughing at
all RPMs.
Have you done anything else on the car recently (replaced
anything, etc.)?
Could be plug wires, coil, or distributor rotor/cap (I think
the base-model
cars have distributor instead of DIS like the rest). If
it doesn't seem to
be any of those, consider doing a compression test on all
six cylinders...
If the black smoke has an oil smell, it might be
major.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 13:03:37
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: car won't start
Christian,
Have you tried the service
manual's tests for the CAS and other
parts? You are using the service manual
right?
Their hints for the CAS and related:
#2: If the tach reads
0 when an engine that has failed to start,
suspect the CAS or broken timing
belt. So attach a tach to the
monitoring connector near the battery and see
what happens.
***Is the timing belt OK?*** Visually inspect
it.
#3: "If the tach reads 0 when an engine that has failed to start,
and
the primary current of the ignition coil is not turned on and
off.
Therefore, troubles in the ignition circuit and ignition coil
or
faulty power transistor is suspected." So test the coils
and
transistor.
Read the manual. :)
The service manual has a
master troubleshooting guide to get you
started and focused. It is helpful to
eliminate some items in your
search for the cause.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 16:36:17
-0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Forged connecting rods STOCK. Proof is at hand - A
correction
Oh boy, where to start? I know I'll get some flack for
this but I need to
correct my report attached below, it is incorrect.
After writing the
attached memo this past Tuesday, I went and looked at my
shortblock rods (the
originals from a '94 block) and questioned what I was
told by my Engineering
friends. So I brought the stock rod back to work
and had it analyzed again.
Our stock rods ARE in fact forgings (at least
the ones from my '94 block).
My old supervisor who was responsible for
releasing connecting rods years ago
claims I showed him a different rod when
he explained it as being a PM part
etc. Not sure how that could have
happened, but apparently he wasn't
describing to me the 3.0L twin turbo rod
that I dutifully took notes. My
appologies to Jeff, Ken, &
others.
The fact that most of our (Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep) current
production rods are
PM is true, 2.0, 2.7, 3.7, 4.7, etc. It is a
preferred method and many use
it for its excellent cost/strength ratio.
Most PM rods do not require
balancing because they come out of the tool
nearly identical to each other.
Our stock rods have huge balance pads on both
the small and large ends. My
Carrillo rods are stronger and actually
weigh less since the balance pads
weren't required with the precision
machining they do. As I indicated below,
one of the incentives to
upgrade is to also use a better bolt/nut combo. I
also had other
improvements over stock by widening the small end for better
support of the
wrist pin, converted to a full floating pin for more even wear
of the wrist
pin (less ovalization over time), and eliminated the squirter.
I felt I
needed to correct my statements before too much time passed. I
hope
everyone that read my original post sees this.
Regards,
Joe
G.
Joe Gonsowski wrote:
> Jeff, Ken, &
Others,
>
> This is not my opinion but instead fact based on a study
I did on my
> second gen shortblock before deciding on Carrillo
rods. I would also
> like to state that I'm not a connecting rod
expert, I just sit next to
> those that work on them for a living (and I
keep good mental notes).
>
> Despite what the Dodge literature might
state, our rods are not forgings
> in the traditional sense. They
are PM (Powdered Metal) rods that appear
> to be ultra high density
through the use of a double hit (ie formed,
> sintered, restrike, and
resintered). Sometimes this is referred to as a
> forged PM rod
(wide parting line, higher strength, etc.) and this is
> where Dodge made
a play on words (ie considering it a forged rod).
>
> After maching,
our rod are notched with lasers at the caps and then
> broken/fractured
loose. This creates a situation where the cap must stay
> with the
same rod since it's fracture surface is unique (excellent for
> cap true
position as long as the two mating surfaces are kept clean).
> This
procedure wasn't very common when our engines were designed (late
> 80s)
but is common practice today. We use PM rods in almost all
Chrysler
> engines today. They still require machining of the small
end and big end
> bores, width of each, balancing (big end & small end
weights) as well as
> the surface the bolt/nut torque against. The
only machinging savings you
> gain on PMed rods over a more conventional
cast or forged rod is in the
> cap joint (PM rods are usually cracked) and
no need for dowling since
> true position is maintained by the fractured
surface.
>
> Recap: Our connecting rods are not forgings but
instead double strike PM
> (high density) pieces. They are however
very stout with a high safety
> factors in our stock twin turbo
applications. The weak link in the rod
> would be the bolt strength
(assuming no green cracks in the PM).
>
> Joe Gonsowski
> '92
& '96 R/T TT
>
> Casey Rayman wrote:
>
> > I
don't know of ANY motor produced in recent history that did not
> >
come with forged rods. Cast cranks are common, but due to the
> >
stresses involved connecting rods are always forged. I am pretty
>
> sure they are even forged on lawnmowers and such small motors.
Some
> > of the very very recent motors(GM LS1) use powder
metal(sintered)
> > rods which gives the same end result as forging,
but is more accurate
> > so little to no finish machining is
required.
> >
> > Casey
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 15:55:14
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
Does anyone think this is possible
without Nitrous. It would be roughly
a 125 HP jump on a N/A
car.
Here are my plans (should things with the money situation go
smoothly):
Forged Pistons
Forged Rods
Knife-Edged
Crank
(.050 overbore)
(possible stroke conversion)
(probable 12:1
CR)
Rebuilt upper end (reworked heads, possible ti valve springs)
Throttle
Body
Port-matched intake and exhaust
550 CC injectors
Fuel
Pump
Extrude honed intake
Fuel Management (still need some help on this
one)
Any other suggestions???
Of course, when this is
done, I plan on also installing the already
planned 100 - 200 shot nitrous
system, with pistons that can seriously
handle it.
-
-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 17:20:14
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
Hey Cody do not get to far ahead
of yourself ;) you also need a tranny that
will hold up to 130 Hp
increase..... Just look around and find out what the
Honda Acura crowd
is doing to their trannies and mimic it.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: cody [SMTP:overclck@starband.net]
> Sent:
Thursday, October 11, 2001 4:55 PM
> To: Starnet; 'Team3S'
>
Subject: Team3S: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
>
> Does anyone think
this is possible without Nitrous. It would be roughly a
> 125 HP
jump on a N/A car.
>
> Here are my plans (should things with
the money situation go smoothly):
>
> Forged Pistons
>
Forged Rods
> Knife-Edged Crank
> (.050 overbore)
> (possible
stroke conversion)
> (probable 12:1 CR)
> Rebuilt upper end
(reworked heads, possible ti valve springs)
> Throttle Body
>
Port-matched intake and exhaust
> 550 CC injectors
> Fuel
Pump
> Extrude honed intake
> Fuel Management (still need some help
on this one)
>
> Any other suggestions???
>
> Of course, when this is done, I plan on also installing the
already
> planned 100 - 200 shot nitrous system, with pistons that can
seriously
> handle it.
>
> -Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 14:21:35
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Forged connecting rods STOCK. Proof is at hand - A
correction
Thanks for the correction, Joe. And the good news. Forged.
Nice.
So I guess all we need now is for someone to compare, side-by-side,
a
rod from 91-93 to a 94+ rod (to confirm or deny CAPS which says
all
years are the same). Can someone do this for us? Unfortunately, I
did
not get back the old rods from my '92 engine
rebuild.
Thanks,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Joe Gonsowski" <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
To:
"Casey Rayman" <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>;
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>; "Jeff
VanOrsdal" <
jvan@home.com>
Sent:
Thursday, October 11, 2001 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Forged connecting
rods STOCK. Proof is at hand -
A correction
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 16:22:22
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
> Hey Cody do not get to far
ahead of yourself ;) you also
> need a tranny that will hold up to
130 Hp increase..... Just
> look around and find out what the Honda
Acura crowd is doing
> to their trannies and mimic it.
Actually
watch what the DSM guys are doing for their FWD setups... The
trannies
are almost identical.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 19:11:28
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Forged connecting rods STOCK. Proof is at hand - A correction
I just
happen to have two first gen short blocks in storage. 1 NA and 1
TT.
Joe also happens to be local to me. If he's willing, I'll pull out
my spare
parts and we can have one grand ol comparison and settle this once
and for
all. :)
Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Thursday,
October 11, 2001 5:22 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Forged connecting rods STOCK. Proof is at hand -
A
correction
Thanks for the correction, Joe. And the good news.
Forged. Nice.
So I guess all we need now is for someone to compare,
side-by-side, a
rod from 91-93 to a 94+ rod (to confirm or deny CAPS which
says all
years are the same). Can someone do this for us? Unfortunately, I
did
not get back the old rods from my '92 engine
rebuild.
Thanks,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Joe Gonsowski" <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
To:
"Casey Rayman" <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>;
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>; "Jeff
VanOrsdal" <
jvan@home.com>
Sent:
Thursday, October 11, 2001 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Forged connecting
rods STOCK. Proof is at hand -
A correction
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 18:16:23
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: File Fitting Rings
Wouldn't you need to file the gaps of the
rings to fit your block? The
pistons don't affect your ring
gap.
Did you buy rings made for this?
Gapping your rings is pretty
easy if you have a ring grinder. Maybe the
machine shop that did your
block will lend you one.
Go slow and only grind a little at a time till
you get to the gap you want.
Use a piston to make sure the ring is square in
the cylinder.
Good luck,
Rich
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "MThompson" <
mathompson@home.com>
To: "Team3S
Stealth (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, October 11, 2001 12:04 AM
Subject: Team3S: File Fitting
Rings
> Hello Folks!
>
> Question - I am looking for
someone who is capable of file fitting my new
> rings to my new Ross
pistons. I live in Orange County, CA and would like
to
> find
someone semi-locally [within 100 miles]. Any suggestions would
help.
> Although I will try most anyone if they come highly recommended
and can do
> it within the next few weeks.
>
>
Regards,
>
> Mark
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 16:15:25
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: Denso
Iridiums
Yo Team;
Anyone with time logged on Denso Iridium's,
please respond on your opinion
of their performance...as say opposed to the
NGK platinum's. Roger, you need
not respond ;-)) I already know how you feel
about the ;-).
Respond to me privately, or to the Team if you feel it is
worthy of being
filed for future reference in the
archives.
Best
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 18:18:16
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: File Fitting Rings
> Go slow and only grind a little at a
time till you get to the
> gap you want. Use a piston to make sure the
ring is square in
> the cylinder.
...and a little loose of a gap
is better than too tight of a gap - the rings
expand when heated which is why
there's a gap in the first place. If you
plan on running the car hard
all the time you might want to make the gap
slightly larger.
:-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 18:22:18
-0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: car won't start
Christian,
My experience was with a GM
product and Murray's Auto Parts in the Chicago
Area.
I now live in
Missouri now. I called AutoZone and they don't carry
that
part.
I don't have a manual yet, but isn't there somewhere that
tells you all the
resistance readings that are normal for all the terminals
that connect to
the computer?
This is something you need to do if you
replace the ECU.
It takes time, but may identify the problem.
Good
luck,
Rich
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
Sportsmobile101@aol.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, October 10, 2001 11:36 PM
Subject: Team3S: car won't
start
> Darc i did check the connection a couple
of times, i also cleaned the
> connectors just to make sure but no
luck. I think i did tried to start
the
> car with it unplugged
but no results either. I live in Santa Rosa, CA if
> anyone from the
list lives around here drop me a note. By the way Santa
Rosa
> is
about 45 miles north of San Francisco. Rich do you know which
store
would
> carry this sensor? I tried Kragen and Pep-boys but they
dont' sell it.
The
> dealer wants close to $400 fot it and all buys are
final. Please advice.
> Thanks.
> Christian.
> 92
SL.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 19:23:17
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
I'm personally going to skip most of
this 'infernal' internal stuff.
But what I am interested in is a CAM
regrind, discussed in these archives, and perhaps the valve springs. That to get
better high rpm range, a little more usable top end.
The other NA mod is
reworking the intake. On the old v8s, when one 4 barrel wouldn't do, use
TWO!
I'm going to go the twin route vs some silly TB rework. The #2 will open
near WOT.
To handle that, I have just gotten a set of 360s, and should
pick up an apexi S-AFC today for fuel control.
Cody, check the 3SI
messages for 'NA injectors' and you will find some info by others.
Haven't
seen anyone talk about the twin TB idea, but I'VE been thinking about it for
awhile.
Kurt / Skyrider
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Furman, Russell [mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent:
Thursday, October 11, 2001 2:20 PM
To: 'cody'; 'Team 3S'
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
Hey Cody do not get to far ahead of
yourself ;) you also need a tranny that
will hold up to 130 Hp
increase..... Just look around and find out what the
Honda Acura crowd
is doing to their trannies and mimic it.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: cody [SMTP:overclck@starband.net]
> Sent:
Thursday, October 11, 2001 4:55 PM
> To: Starnet; 'Team3S'
>
Subject: Team3S: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
>
> Does anyone think
this is possible without Nitrous. It would be roughly a
> 125 HP
jump on a N/A car.
>
> Here are my plans (should things with
the money situation go smoothly):
>
> Forged Pistons
>
Forged Rods
> Knife-Edged Crank
> (.050 overbore)
> (possible
stroke conversion)
> (probable 12:1 CR)
> Rebuilt upper end
(reworked heads, possible ti valve springs)
> Throttle Body
>
Port-matched intake and exhaust
> 550 CC injectors
> Fuel
Pump
> Extrude honed intake
> Fuel Management (still need some help
on this one)
>
> Any other suggestions???
>
> Of course, when this is done, I plan on also installing the
already
> planned 100 - 200 shot nitrous system, with pistons that can
seriously
> handle it.
>
> -Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 16:46:00
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 350 HP (crank) on N/A
You for got timing..you -have- to
tune timing to really achieve good
power.
Apexi ITC.
On Thu, 11
Oct 2001, cody wrote:
> Does anyone think this is possible without
Nitrous. It would be roughly
> a 125 HP jump on a N/A
car.
>
> Here are my plans (should things with the money
situation go smoothly):
>
> Forged Pistons
> Forged
Rods
> Knife-Edged Crank
> (.050 overbore)
> (possible stroke
conversion)
> (probable 12:1 CR)
> Rebuilt upper end (reworked
heads, possible ti valve springs)
> Throttle Body
> Port-matched
intake and exhaust
> 550 CC injectors
> Fuel Pump
> Extrude
honed intake
> Fuel Management (still need some help on this
one)
>
> Any other suggestions???
>
> Of
course, when this is done, I plan on also installing the already
> planned
100 - 200 shot nitrous system, with pistons that can seriously
> handle
it.
>
> -Cody
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 19:31:49
-0500 (CDT)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf" <
kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Coolant problem
Hi All,
I have a 1993 Dodge Stealth ES
(DOHC). Here's a question that I'd
appreciate any feedback on that anyone
would care to offer.
I recently started getting a strong smell of
antifreeze when the heat or
air conditioning were turned on. It got
particularly strong when I turned
on the heat. At the same time, I couldn't
smell any antifreeze in the
engine compartment. So, I figured that it was
probably the heater core
leaking. I took the car to the local Dodge dealer
and they came to the
same conclusion So, I went ahead and had this rather
expensive repair done
and at the same time replaced all the water hoses in
the engine
compartment since the old ones had been on the car since it was
new. After
the repair was completed, I still had some antifreeze smell coming
out of
the heating cooling system, but I figured this was probably residual
stuff
from the repair that would just have to evaporate off. Tonight, I put
the
car up on jack stands and got underneath to look at things. I noticed
that
the undercoat above the exhaust system looked wet in the center of
the
car, behind the engine. On closer examination, I found that the
fiber
insulation between the firewall and the engine was soaking wet with
a
green colored fluid that I assume is the antifreeze/water coolant.
It
appeared that the insulation was just wet along the bottom. Higher up
it
appeared to be dry. I checked the heater hoses at the firewall and
could
not find any leaks, they were dry. Since I just picked up the car
today, I
suppose the insulation could be wet from whatever was causing my
initial
problem, or that it got wet when the repair on the core was being
done;
however, it bothers me that the insulation is not wet higher up. Also,
the
old core, which I had the shop save for me, did not appear to have a
leak.
It didn't even smell like antifreeze on the outside.
So, is this
a case of mis-diagosis of the problem? Is there something else
that could be
leaking and causing this problem?
Thanks for any
suggestions,
Steve Kempf
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 17:37:47
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: car
won't start
Christian;
Dunno if this is any help, but I saw
some capacitors for the ECU for sale
on the 3SI board today. If it is the
ECU, and if this is the problem, then
the fix might be reasonably cheap ( $10
if I remember right).
Best
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 19:55:56
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: blowing black smoke
At 11:10 AM 10/11/01 , Tim & Marina
Furbush wrote:
>Everything has been great for 106000 miles, but now today
it's blowing black
>smoke. The plugs are black (Bosch Plat). The
engine is running rough and
>it's coughing at all
RPMs.
>Tim
Sounds to me like you have dirty or leaky injectors. You
might want to try
getting them cleaned (the type of cleaning that puts the
cleaner in @ the
fuel rails, not the tank)
Wayne
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 09:05:06
-0400
From: "Andie W. Lin" <
andiewlin@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Denso Iridiums
Actually, could Roger private me on his
opinion?
andie w lin
vp marketing and product r&d
carbotech
engineering
http://www.carbotecheng.comtel:
877.899.5024 | fax: 954.493.9669
::-----Original Message-----
::From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
::Of Darc
::Sent: Thursday,
October 11, 2001 7:15 PM
::To: Team3S
::Subject: Team3S: Denso
Iridiums
::
::
::Yo Team;
::
::Anyone with time logged on Denso
Iridium's, please respond on your opinion
::of their performance...as say
opposed to the NGK platinum's.
::Roger, you need
::not respond ;-)) I
already know how you feel about the ;-).
::
::Respond to me privately, or
to the Team if you feel it is worthy of being
::filed for future reference in
the archives.
::
::Best
::
::Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#643
***************************************