Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, October 6
2001 Volume 01 : Number
638
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 05 Oct 2001 13:44:15 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rattling gearbox
Mihai - Thanks for this feedback. I hope I don't
have to follow this
example. I read somewhere (popular mechanics, I think)
that rattling, even
when it goes away with clutch pressure, can indicate a
major problem with
the guts of the tranny. When I changed by trans fluid it
was about 1/2 quart
low. We will just have to wait and see. I will keep you
posted if it
deteriorates further.
Andy
and they replaced his
transmission again under the
12 months/1 year warranty rule. It had
been less than 1 year
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 17:39:24
-0700
From: Rich Fowler <
richfowler2@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Volk LE 37 18" - Here's what they look like on a Stealth TT
I
recently put on a set of Volk LE 37 18" wheels with Nitto 555s. If
anyone
is interested in seeing what they look like on a green Stealth TT,
here's a
link of some pics - just don't laugh at my novice web
skills!
http://homepage.mac.com/stealthracer2002/PhotoAlbum.htmlAlso,
I have a set of stock 17" inch 5 spoke wheels with Nitto 555 tires
with about
75% of the tread left. If anyone needs another set of road race
wheels,
just let me know. I hope everyone enjoys the pics!
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 17:53:46
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel Cut Thoughts
At 07:42 AM 10/5/01 , Roger Gerl
wrote:
>> >> As we all know larger turbos flow more air than
smaller
>> >> turbos at the same compressor
rpm/boost.
>>
>>REALLY? Or perhaps I misunderstand. Let me
re-phrase what you meant
>>to say: larger turbos will flow more air
into the engine than smaller
>>ones at the same engine RPM and boost
level. Correct? How does this
>>happen?
>
>Jeff, he speaks
of compressor rpm/boost but it is not important.
What i meant was
compressor RPM, not engine. For example a 9b turbo
spinning @ 20,000 RPM
will flow less air than a 13g, 15g, 17c, 20g, etc.
etc. at the same 20,000.
Why is this not important? I think it is
important, because a person may
think that since he/she can run 18psi on
stock turbos, they can do the same
with larger turbos, which may or may not
be true, depending on their
setup.
Wayne
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 21:13:41
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Volk LE 37 18" - Here's what they look like on a Stealth TT
I
could not get the pictures to link to the pictures for some reason so
here
are the links. Nice looking background, Rich.
http://homepage.mac.com/stealthracer2002/.Pictures/fullside.JPGhttp://homepage.mac.com/stealthracer2002/.Pictures/groundfront.JPGhttp://homepage.mac.com/stealthracer2002/.Pictures/frontcorner.JPGhttp://homepage.mac.com/stealthracer2002/.Pictures/N1_exhaust.JPGhttp://homepage.mac.com/stealthracer2002/.Pictures/Engbay.JPG-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich Fowler
Sent: Friday, October 05,
2001 8:39 PM
I recently put on a set of Volk LE 37 18" wheels with
Nitto 555s. If
anyone
is interested in seeing what they look like on
a green Stealth TT,
here's a
link of some pics - just don't laugh at my
novice web skills!
http://homepage.mac.com/stealthracer2002/PhotoAlbum.htmlAlso,
I have a set of stock 17" inch 5 spoke wheels with Nitto 555 tires
with about
75% of the tread left. If anyone needs another set of
road
race
wheels, just let me know. I hope everyone enjoys the
pics!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 5 Oct 2001 19:06:40
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Short finder and Manual Boost controller
Has anyone use a short
finder.
Per Gm service manual " Short finder J8681-A locate hidden shorts to
ground by by creating a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shoes
you the location of the short through trim or sheet metal".
I am
deperately tring to find a short in my mother-in-laws Reatta. I would love
to hear feedback form anyone who has used one of these. I haven't been
able to find one yet so Iam not sure of the price. I may have to cave in
and GASP! go to a dealer.
Boost Controller feedback
I am running a
Manual ball and spring type boost controller and the only advantages I see to a
electronic boost controller is warning functions and adjustment on the
fly.
I can't see any possible performance improvment using a electronic
boost controller. For the following reasons. Please feel free to correct me.
1. A ball and spring type manual boost controller blocks all boost from
reaching the wastgates until set boost pressure is reached. The wastegates are
completely closed for maximum boost until that boost is reached then the boost
is held as long as turbos can keep up. Electronic boost contoller can't close
the wastgates any more than this so not possible for more power.
2. I
get almost no spiking. 1 PSI spike at the absolute worse. IF a electronic boost
controller was made that had NO spiking at all I might up my boost by 1 psi but
from what I have heard the electronic boost controllers spike just a little too.
3. Warning buzzer, IF I had a warning buzzer I might up my boost
slightly because I felt safer, but I feal safe now. My boost is staying very
consistent so a warning buzzer is not really needed if I pay
attention.
__________________
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com 1991 3000gt
Vr-4, 4-bolt main conversion
Improved Pre-cats and Downpipe
VDO boost
,MBC set to 13.5 psi. NGK platinums gapped to .033
Balanced stock fuel
injectors
Cone air cleaner
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 22:26:47
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
AVC-R Scramble Mode
Does anyone have any experience using this
mode? The manual, as you all
know, is blah, but does say to send a
pulse signal (like hitting the ECS
button). Does anyone use this, and
if so, know what the effect of
sending a constant signal
is?
Thanks!
Ken Stanton
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
'91 Pearl
White R/T TwinTurbo
Super Snoopy - Plates 007KEN
FIPK, HKS Exhaust, APEXi
AVC-R, Improved Precats
Bozzspeed Lightweight Flywheel, RPS Stage
II
6-speed transmission (5-6 speed conversion)
Aiwa MP3
Stereo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 19:16:47
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
AVC-R Scramble Mode
I haven't hooked my scramble boost up yet but there
is a line from the
controller that you wire to one side of a momentary push
button switch
and the other side of the switch is grounded. When you push
the button
the controller raises the boost by a selected amount for a
selected time
period. One push equal one extra yy # of boost for xx
second.
Jim
Berry
========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
To: Team3S
Stealth <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, October 05, 2001 7:26 PM
Subject: Team3S: AVC-R Scramble
Mode
> Does anyone have any experience using this mode? The
manual, as you all
> know, is blah, but does say to send a pulse signal
(like hitting the ECS
> button). Does anyone use this, and if so,
know what the effect of
> sending a constant signal is?
>
>
Thanks!
> Ken Stanton
> Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
> '91
Pearl White R/T TwinTurbo
> Super Snoopy - Plates 007KEN
> FIPK, HKS
Exhaust, APEXi AVC-R, Improved Precats
> Bozzspeed Lightweight Flywheel,
RPS Stage II
> 6-speed transmission (5-6 speed conversion)
>
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 21:43:29
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rattling gearbox
> Mihai - Thanks for this feedback. I
hope I don't have to
> follow this example. I read somewhere (popular
mechanics,
> I think) that rattling, even when it goes away with
clutch
> pressure, can indicate a major problem with the guts of
>
the tranny.
Could be a sign of abnormal bearing wear or improper tranny
assembly. If
the wrong spacing shims are used then the bearings might
be able to rattle
against the cups a little. How bad that is I have no
idea, but something is
probably out of the end play specs on one of the
shafts.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 20:53:19
-0600
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: More
Power
The goal I have for my car is something for the daily drive that
can rip a
C5 a new one. To do this I estimate I need 400hp and a weight
loss program
for my car/driver :-). With all the mods I have listed
below I think I can
hit that number (am I right?? I don't know...) With
the mods I have
currently, I estimate that I have 330hp (9lbs boost stock
boost controller
but measured with my aftermarket boost gauge) again am I
anywhere close???
Here is my (short) list of the mods I have done thus
far:
K&N FIPK
Gutted Pre-Cats
Test Pipe
Here are the ones I
am planning on doing. If anyone has any other
suggestions and/or
modifications to the order I am planning on doing them
in, please
respond!
Boost Controller (undecided on brand, definitely electronic, I
don't want to
go more than 13lbs of boost and can't affort new turbos
anyhow)
Down Pipe dual 2.5" to 3" race pipe
Metal Intake
Piping
Intercooler (I can't decide between a front mount or larger
twin
replacements like HKS makes, any suggestions?)
Cross Drilled or
Slotted rotors (stock replacement, which would you go for:
slotted or
drilled?)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 19:51:23
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
More Power
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Thomas Jeys <
tj@jeys.net>
> Here is my (short)
list of the mods I have done thus far:
> K&N FIPK
> Gutted
Pre-Cats
> Test Pipe
>
> Here are the ones I am planning on
doing. If anyone has any other
> suggestions and/or modifications to
the order I am planning on doing them
> in, please respond!
>
> Boost Controller (undecided on brand, definitely electronic, I don't
want to
> go more than 13lbs of boost and can't affort new turbos
anyhow)
15 is fine for most cases --- a few folks have had trouble with
less but it's
uncommon. They won't hold 15 to redline anyway, they start to
drop off at
5500rpm or so.
>
> Down Pipe dual 2.5" to 3"
race pipe
Can't hurt, but untill the next level the stock system does
fairly good.
> Metal Intake Piping
> Intercooler
A bit
of a waste for drag use --- the stock intercoolers don't have time to
heat
soak in a short run and the metal pipes aren't going to accomplish much
at
these lower levels --- bigger turbos, bigger IC's, bigger piping,
bigger
injectors = big bucks.
I'd take the money and get a cat back
exhaust.
> Cross Drilled or Slotted rotors (stock replacement, which
would you go for:
> slotted or drilled?)
If you want to look cool
the slotted drilled are great --- if you want performance
get plain
Porterfield cryogenenicly treated rotors and R4S
pads.
Jim
berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 23:15:37
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: More Power
Why does everyone think they need more power to tear
apart one of these
cars? What you need is $300 and a two-day track
session to learn how to
drive better. You might not beat a C5 through a
1/4 mile but put a
90-degree turn at the end and you will beat almost every
car on the road
(since people won't want to trash their new Audi S4 with a
chip or new
WRX).
It has been proven that at the track our cars beat
up on everything
except the Viper, Corvette Z06, Porsche AWD TT, and some
nicely-modded
M3s. I don't see a C5 listed there although many MANY
times I have seen
these at the track with full slicks, rollbar, brakes, etc.
that tear
apart better cars.
Remember that you won't see a Top Fuel
guy taking on a mountain road
against us but they do straight 1/4 mile runs
since this is "right up
their alley." Why play in the C5 court.
Make them challenge you and
try their hand at twists and turns and THEN see
who wins.
I think the majority of us know the AWD is better than anything
out
there and learning to use this makes the AWD driver very potent
when
chasing down prey ... especially in turns. Brakes leave something
to be
desired so don't try to out-stop someone with stock brakes but
DO
challenge them to a handling duel (not an AutoX or slalom though
but
more open, fast-sweeping turns).
This summer with stock
suspension, stock engine except a FIPK, and only
track tires I chased down
and passed an NSX and a Viper who were both in
my group. Sure the car
should have been faster but that is why they put
us in those groups. I
would thrash around every car through the turns
at Heartland Park, kept up
with and passed an M3, and the only ones
passing me were a really-nice
Porsche Turbo and an Integra Type R (both
on slicks). I was also
turning times identical to those in a class two
grades higher than I
was. I was happy even if Merritt calls it
beginner's luck.
Learn
to flaunt your stuff in the right place that shows off the car.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 with brand new Pirelli P-Zero Asymmetrical tires
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Jeys
Sent: Friday, October 05,
2001 10:53 PM
The goal I have for my car is something for the daily
drive that can rip
a
C5 a new one. To do this I estimate I need
400hp and a weight loss
program
for my car/driver :-). With all the
mods I have listed below I think I
can
hit that number (am I right?? I
don't know...) With the mods I have
currently, I estimate that I have
330hp (9lbs boost stock boost
controller
but measured with my aftermarket
boost gauge) again am I anywhere
close???
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 23:28:49
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: More Power
Hey, to each their own...
I'm up to almost
420/430 with my new mods (alky injection), but I see that
being my limit for
a long time. I agree that these cars outperform most if
not all
comparable cars, but power = POWER! I had a race with a Z06 the
other
day, and we went from 60mph to 148mph, nearly side by side. What
a
rush! But anyhow, gotta stay competitive, even if I am 10 years older
than
he is!! LOL...
To each their own..
Ken
Darren Schilberg
wrote:
> Why does everyone think they need more power to tear apart
one of these
> cars? What you need is $300 and a two-day track
session to learn how to
> drive better. You might not beat a C5
through a 1/4 mile but put a
> 90-degree turn at the end and you will beat
almost every car on the road
> (since people won't want to trash their new
Audi S4 with a chip or new
> WRX).
>
> It has been proven that
at the track our cars beat up on everything
> except the Viper, Corvette
Z06, Porsche AWD TT, and some nicely-modded
> M3s. I don't see a C5
listed there although many MANY times I have seen
> these at the track
with full slicks, rollbar, brakes, etc. that tear
> apart better
cars.
>
> Remember that you won't see a Top Fuel guy taking on a
mountain road
> against us but they do straight 1/4 mile runs since this
is "right up
> their alley." Why play in the C5 court. Make
them challenge you and
> try their hand at twists and turns and THEN see
who wins.
>
> I think the majority of us know the AWD is better than
anything out
> there and learning to use this makes the AWD driver very
potent when
> chasing down prey ... especially in turns. Brakes
leave something to be
> desired so don't try to out-stop someone with
stock brakes but DO
> challenge them to a handling duel (not an AutoX or
slalom though but
> more open, fast-sweeping turns).
>
> This
summer with stock suspension, stock engine except a FIPK, and only
> track
tires I chased down and passed an NSX and a Viper who were both in
> my
group. Sure the car should have been faster but that is why they
put
> us in those groups. I would thrash around every car through
the turns
> at Heartland Park, kept up with and passed an M3, and the only
ones
> passing me were a really-nice Porsche Turbo and an Integra Type R
(both
> on slicks). I was also turning times identical to those in a
class two
> grades higher than I was. I was happy even if Merritt
calls it
> beginner's luck.
>
> Learn to flaunt your stuff in
the right place that shows off the car.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995
VR-4 with brand new Pirelli P-Zero Asymmetrical tires
>
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Thomas Jeys
> Sent: Friday,
October 05, 2001 10:53 PM
>
> The goal I have for my car is
something for the daily drive that can rip
> a
> C5 a new one.
To do this I estimate I need 400hp and a weight loss
> program
> for
my car/driver :-). With all the mods I have listed below I think I
>
can
> hit that number (am I right?? I don't know...) With the mods I
have
> currently, I estimate that I have 330hp (9lbs boost stock
boost
> controller
> but measured with my aftermarket boost gauge)
again am I anywhere
> close???
Ken Stanton
Organizer - 3SI
Rochester (NY)
'91 Pearl White R/T TwinTurbo
Super Snoopy - Plates
007KEN
FIPK, HKS Exhaust, APEXi AVC-R, Improved Precats
Bozzspeed
Lightweight Flywheel, RPS Stage II
6-speed transmission (5-6 speed
conversion)
Aiwa MP3 Stereo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 23:33:45
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: More Power
Grin. To each their own. My tires cost
$150 each ($600 total) and FIPK
was $120 ($720 total) and a 2-day driving
school was $240 ($960 total).
I can keep up with most cars through most
applications except a 1/4 mile
but since turns take up more time of a course
than straight line runs I
feel I have an edge.
All that for under
$1,000. Damn do I feel good sometimes.
Of course, since then there
has been the rollbar ($500), race seat
($375), harnesses ($400), and Big Reds
($1,500) to make me competitive
on the road courses but that is only to be
safer. None of that added
speed or power. In fact - they all
added weight to the car.
Ken -- You're on next time we AutoX at your
Gathering next year. Not
the best place to show off our cars but I'll
be ready for you.
I also have 0% chance of blowing up my engine since it
is stock. Turbos
don't boost high enough. BOV doesn't hold too
much pressure. Y-pipe
stays connected. Sometimes less IS
more.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Stanton
Sent: Friday, October 05,
2001 11:29 PM
Hey, to each their own...
I'm up to almost
420/430 with my new mods (alky injection), but I see
that
being my limit
for a long time. I agree that these cars outperform most
if
not all
comparable cars, but power = POWER! I had a race with a Z06 the
other
day, and we went from 60mph to 148mph, nearly side by side.
What
a
rush! But anyhow, gotta stay competitive, even if I am 10
years older
than
he is!! LOL...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 22:36:11
-0600
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More
Power
Yes, I understand that our cars corner really really well, that's
one of the
reasons I bought one. Still, I got my toasted butt handed to me by
a C5 from
a rolling start on the interstate. That was not
pleasant. So let me put it
this way:
These are the mods I
already have:
K&N FIPK
Gutted Pre-Cats
Test Pipe
Dual 3"
exhaust after the test pipe (not the stock system)
Is it safe to say that
I am making 330hp with 9lbs boost?
If I up the boost to 13, get larger
intercoolers, metal intake piping, and
larger down pipes will I be making
400hp? Take into consideration that most
of my driving is done on the
interstate in the mountains, so the
intercoolers will help me more than most
(I think).
My goal is to get more HP WITHOUT changing out the turbos,
needing to add an
AF controller, boost beyond 13psi, changing injector size,
new manifold,
breaking the bank, or any kind of racing fuel.
I plan on
going to a driving school, but have not had time yet.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 01:30:18
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: More Power
Sounds like someone needs to invest $140 in a G-Tech
Pro to measure
before and after gains in HP and report back to the
list.
A rolling start is different. Did he get the jump on you or
did you
start it first? What speed was this at? I find that when
I want to get
a good launch at highway speed (60 mph) I will drop down to 2nd
gear and
get full power band launch then shift into 3rd I think around 80 mph
for
the 6-speed. This gives a better launch than in 3rd gear unless you
are
already at 65 or 70 mph. Hey, every little bit helps.
On my
G-Tech Pro I had stock everything and got a reading of 270 hp
through third
gear (road limited since a turn was approaching). I am
sure I could
have gotten around 300 hp and that is with no mods.
I believe I got
wasted on the 1/4 mile by someone with a BC set to about
13 psi. Got me
by at least half a second. That doesn't take much money
or effort when
someone knows what they are doing. That trick really
gives amazing
power more than a FMIC, hard pipes, etc. does IMHO.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Jeys
Sent: Saturday, October 06,
2001 12:36 AM
Yes, I understand that our cars corner really really
well, that's one of
the
reasons I bought one. Still, I got my toasted butt
handed to me by a C5
from
a rolling start on the interstate. That
was not pleasant. So let me
put it
this way:
These are the
mods I already have:
K&N FIPK
Gutted Pre-Cats
Test Pipe
Dual
3" exhaust after the test pipe (not the stock system)
Is it safe to say
that I am making 330hp with 9lbs boost?
If I up the boost to 13, get
larger intercoolers, metal intake piping,
and
larger down pipes will I be
making 400hp? Take into consideration that
most
of my driving is
done on the interstate in the mountains, so the
intercoolers will help me
more than most (I think).
My goal is to get more HP WITHOUT changing out
the turbos, needing to
add an
AF controller, boost beyond 13psi, changing
injector size, new manifold,
breaking the bank, or any kind of racing
fuel.
I plan on going to a driving school, but have not had time
yet.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 10:44:47
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Intrax spring installation question.
I'm currently in the process
of installing my intrax springs. My question
is if it mattered which
side was up when I install them.
Should the side of the spring that has
tightly wound coils be at the top,
should it be at the bottom, or does it
even matter.
The Intrax and stock springs are similar in the fact that
one side of the
spring, the last coil has a flat side and on the other side
of the spring,
the last coil is round.
When taking off my stock
springs, the flat side was at the top and the round
side was on the bottom
sitting on the strut perch.
I installed my front Intrax springs in the
same manner but was wondering if
this was correct.
Michael
Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 09:56:30
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More Power
> I can keep up with most cars through most
applications
> except a 1/4 mile but since turns take up more time
of
> a course than straight line runs I feel I have an edge.
My car
keeps up with almost anything on the street, and does rather well
against
extreme race-prepped Porsches on the autocross track even though
I've done
absolutely no suspension or braking mods.
There aren't too many twisties
around my area to race in - its all stoplight
to stoplight and open
freeway.
> I also have 0% chance of blowing up my engine since
it
> is stock. Turbos don't boost high enough. BOV
doesn't
> hold too much pressure. Y-pipe stays connected.
>
Sometimes less IS more.
I know of stock VR4/TT motors that have
blown. Don't fool yourself into
thinking just because it is stock it is
bulletproof. Chances are certainly
lower, but not zero
percent.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 10:06:30
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More Power
> These are the mods I already
have:
> K&N FIPK
> Gutted Pre-Cats
> Test Pipe
>
Dual 3" exhaust after the test pipe (not the stock system)
> Is it
safe to say that I am making 330hp with 9lbs boost?
Maybe, maybe
not. These cars make most of their power increase from more
boost (at
least to a point).
> If I up the boost to 13, get larger intercoolers,
metal
> intake piping, and larger down pipes will I be making
>
400hp? Take into consideration that most of my driving
> is done on
the interstate in the mountains, so the
> intercoolers will help me more
than most (I think).
You might pick up about 30-40HP by increasing boost
by 4 psi from where you
are. You've already made the car breathe
easier, which is half the battle.
A downpipe would finish that part of the
upgrade. The rest of the battle is
mostly boost and fuel (and ignition,
and pistons, and...).
If you only want to run 13 psi, then just remove
the restrictor ring from
the stock boost control solenoid. That should
put you close to 13 without
spending a bunch of money on a boost
controller. Since you already have an
aftermarket boost gauge - try
that and report back on how much the boost
increased.
For step-by-step
instructions search the list archives for the words
"solenoid restrictor ring
nipple remove" and you should find some posts from
me detailing how to do it
(if you have a 1st Gen car - which I'm assuming
since you said your stock
boost was 9psi - 2nd Gen cars are 12 psi). If you
are familiar with DSM
cars (Eclipse/Talon/Laser), its the exact same
procedure as on those
cars.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 08:19:04
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More
Power
Thomas;
Flash has already addressed the issue of the big
edge, that driver
experience and savvy makes. Downshifting is always a
good idea to grab quick
access to your power band if you are not a the top of
it. But to address
your other concerns...
>
> K&N
FIPK
> Gutted Pre-Cats
> Test Pipe
> Dual 3" exhaust after the
test pipe (not the stock system)
These are good start and 330 is likely a
good estimate with stock boost at
around 4500-5000rpm. You can take your rpm
higher but you are wasting it and
should shift.
>
> Is it safe to
say that I am making 330hp with 9lbs boost?
Yes.
>
> If I up
the boost to 13, get larger intercoolers, metal intake piping, and
>
larger down pipes will I be making 400hp?
Not a good way to go. Read
on.
Take into consideration that most
> of my driving is done on
the interstate in the mountains, so the
> intercoolers will help me more
than most (I think).
Roger and Jim, back in the stone age, ran AWD dyno
tests to check horsepower
on these cars and reported back. Adding
modifications like an Apexi BC and
the K&N FIPK , and
running at 15psi, without any other mods, gave a few
ponies under 410
to Jim's 94 Stealth. No other mods had been done. If you
add a Water
injection unit like Aquamist for safety and even more
acceleration, you
should have what you want IMHO. Intercoolers may help if
you are running long
distances at high speeds, given that our cars run hot.
Be sure you always
idle down for a few minutes before shutting it down or
you'll be doing an oil
flush at every oil change to get rid of baked
oil...BTW use Mobil 1 or
good alternate synthetic if you already aren't.
>
> My
goal is to get more HP WITHOUT changing out the turbos, needing to
add
an
> AF controller, boost beyond 13psi, changing injector size, new
manifold,
> breaking the bank, or any kind of racing fuel.
>
>
I plan on going to a driving school, but have not had time yet.
See
above. It's modest in the way of what you could do, and will give you
kick in
the butt performance improvement. Running at 1 bar (15 psi) or .9
bar is
absolutely okay, and if you have WI there should never be any danger
of
detonation damage at that boost. Only when running above 15 psi does
this
start to become a problem and increases rapidly as you move boost up
the
curve from there. At that point you should be considering bigger
turbos,
injectors, race clutch, intercoolers to handle it and a wealth
of
instrumentation and sensors to monitor and tune the car. Stick with plan
A
for a while, until you feel the need for more speed and horsepower. How
fast
do you need to go. Everyone gets beat at some point, even if that
is
translated as they beat themselves. Be happy
;-)
Best
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 13:21:21
-0500
From: "Kyle" <
Celica@speed-racer.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Seat Matching
Would '91 VR4 seats fit into a '93 SL? the '91 VR4
are leather, but not
powered. my cloth '93 drivers seat is powered. would
these fit if i
switched them out? is there any way i could make the '91 VR4
Leather
drivers seat powered?
any prompt response would be greatly
appreciated, as i am planning o
picking the seats up later tonight, or
tomorrow.
Thanks,
Kyle Call
'93 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 15:02:08
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Seat Matching
I have not tried the switch but if everyone can
wait until next Monday I
will report back. I will be going to Cape Cod
(October Quickening) and
will put in my race seat for the show. I will
also be viewing the show
in style in my reclinable, leather seat.
<grin>
Then I might try to test fit the seat into a first and third
gen VR-4/TT
to see if it works. I am hoping that it will.
You
must have power hookups to the seat for it to work or else you are
stuck at
whatever lumbar, side bolster, and slide setting was there when
you
disconnected it. I can take pictures when I take my seat out of my
car
to show the connections but I might already have shots of the seat
out of the
car (showing the stock mounting points) and I have dimensions
between them if
anyone needs that.
I thought all VR-4 seats were power and I didn't know
that SL seats were
power. Neat though. The only way to make the
VR-4 (non-powered) a
powered seat is to get a wiring harness from a car (
www.msrecycling.com)
and have a go at
switching the rails from a powered seat to yours. Not
sure if that is
worth all the trouble. Maybe look at junkyards for
powered leather
seats.
I was interested in putting in seat warmers (I have seen
some
aftermarket ones for sale) or a massager like Cadillacs have.
Something
to make the enjoyable drives really enjoyable. I never seem
to find the
items when I have time to work with them though.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Kyle
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2001
2:21 PM
Would '91 VR4 seats fit into a '93 SL? the '91 VR4 are
leather, but not
powered. my cloth '93 drivers seat is powered. would these
fit if i
switched them out? is there any way i could make the '91 VR4
Leather
drivers seat powered?
any prompt response would be greatly
appreciated, as i am planning o
picking the seats up later tonight, or
tomorrow.
Thanks,
Kyle Call
'93 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 14:01:05
-0600
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: RE: More
Power
>Where you live?
>
>--Flash!
>Pittsburgh,
PA
Western Colorado
>A rolling start is different. Did he
get the jump on you or did you
>start it first? What speed was this
at? I find that when I want to get
>a good launch at highway speed
(60 mph) I will drop down to 2nd gear and
>get full power band launch then
shift into 3rd I think around 80 mph for
>the 6-speed. This gives a
better launch than in 3rd gear unless you are
>already at 65 or 70
mph. Hey, every little bit helps.
We went pretty close to the same
time from 80mph. I was in third, had just
down shifted from 5th.
He had pulled a car length on me before I had even
got into
4th.
>If you only want to run 13 psi, then just remove the restrictor
ring from
>the stock boost control solenoid. That should put you
close to 13 without
>spending a bunch of money on a boost
controller. Since you already have an
>aftermarket boost gauge - try
that and report back on how much the boost
>increased.
Thanks I'll
give it a try and let ya know...
>> Is it safe to say that I am
making 330hp with 9lbs boost?
>Yes.
Thanks Darc, this was my
main source of curiosity.
T.J.
1992 3000GT VR-4
tj@jeys.net*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 16:48:28
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel Cut Thoughts
>important, because a person may think that
since he/she can run 18psi on
>stock turbos, they can do the same with
larger turbos, which may or may not
>be true, depending on their
setup.
>
Why not? Isn't 18psi measured at the plenum? If
the turbo can do this
continuously, and the engine can handle it, would any
turbo set at 18psi
going to do the same regardless of size as long as their
output temps are
the same?
Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 15:03:52
-0600
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: RE: More
Power
Yeah, I love it here too. I wish I could make it to the
gathering, but I
have to go to CA (one of my least favorite places on earth)
on buisness. To
make it worse, my company is making me fly, I don't get
to drive me car!
*sob* I don't know about the mods that the vette had,
he wouldn't pull over
and talk to me.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 17:00:41
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: More Power
Our cars really do not have the same top end power
as a vette or F-body up
top. We need more boost and we need it to last
the whole powerband. I
would venture a guess that if one simply gets a
filter, electronic boost
controller, gut the cats, and add a set of 13gs at
15psi, you will have no
problem with vettes at all. I believe the car
has enough fuel stock to run
13gs at 15psi.
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Thomas Jeys <
tj@jeys.net>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Saturday, October 06, 2001 8:02 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: More
Power
>>Where you
live?
>>
>>--Flash!
>>Pittsburgh,
PA
>
>Western Colorado
>
>>A rolling start is
different. Did he get the jump on you or did you
>>start it
first? What speed was this at? I find that when I want to
get
>>a good launch at highway speed (60 mph) I will drop down to 2nd
gear and
>>get full power band launch then shift into 3rd I think
around 80 mph for
>>the 6-speed. This gives a better launch than
in 3rd gear unless you are
>>already at 65 or 70 mph. Hey, every
little bit helps.
>
>We went pretty close to the same time from
80mph. I was in third, had just
>down shifted from 5th. He had
pulled a car length on me before I had even
>got into
4th.
>
>>If you only want to run 13 psi, then just remove the
restrictor ring from
>>the stock boost control solenoid. That
should put you close to 13 without
>>spending a bunch of money on a
boost controller. Since you already have
an
>>aftermarket
boost gauge - try that and report back on how much the
boost
>>increased.
>
>Thanks I'll give it a try and let ya
know...
>
>>> Is it safe to say that I am making 330hp with
9lbs boost?
>
>>Yes.
>
>Thanks Darc, this was my main
source of curiosity.
>
>T.J.
>1992 3000GT
VR-4
>tj@jeys.net
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 18:02:44
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Seat
Matching
They'll bolt right in. I have seats from a 92 RT/TT in my
91 ES. The only
thing you have to do is build a short harness for the
lumbar/bolster
joystick and find a place to get 12V to run it all. The
wiring is dead
simple. I can get a diagram if you need it. It's
WELL worth it. The 8 way
seats are much more supportive and comfortable
than the crap they install in
the NA models. Good luck.
Jeff
V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Kyle
Sent: Saturday, October
06, 2001 2:21 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Seat Matching
Would '91 VR4 seats fit into a '93 SL? the '91
VR4 are leather, but not
powered. my cloth '93 drivers seat is powered. would
these fit if i
switched them out? is there any way i could make the '91 VR4
Leather
drivers seat powered?
any prompt response would be greatly
appreciated, as i am planning o
picking the seats up later tonight, or
tomorrow.
Thanks,
Kyle Call
'93 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2001 15:24:45
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rattling gearbox
Any idea as to whether or not it will effect the
lifespan of the tranny
Matt? I can live with the rattle. I don't really want
to call for a tow in
the middle of some rural road
somewhere.
Andy
. How bad that is I have no idea, but
something is
probably out of the end play specs on one of the
shafts.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 18:53:30
EDT
From:
Sportsmobile101@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Car stil won't start, please help.
Hi everyone i wrote
about a month ago, because my car was not starting. I
finally got time
to check what i was told to check and that is the spark
plugs, they are
fine, i have good spark, took the injectors out and they are
fine there is
plenty of gas squirting out, so obiously the fuel pump is also
right.
Compression its fine, i took the spark plug out and just inserted the
end of
the spark cable in the hole so that it was airtight and the thing came
out
like a bullet when i cranked the engine, so i got everything to make the
engine work, spark, compression and gas. Now my buddy is 80 percent
sure
that it is a sensor problem? Would the MAS sensor stop the car from
starting?
Please advice, thanks in advance.
Christian
92
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 19:09:59
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Car stil won't start, please help.
I don't think the MAS would
stop it from starting but many of the car's other
sensors could be doing
it.
The engine is turning over, right? When it turns over, can
you smell
anything? Fuel leaking, etc.? You said you tested the
sparks and fuel
system, how did you test them?
When you said the
spark plug wire shot out, do you mean it shot out due to
the
combustion? If that's it, then I would think it would be a sensor.
It
seems to me that the engine is firing, but something is keeping it from
actually running on it's own. Have you gone to a mechanic yet?
Go to a
local (but well-equipped) mechanic and ask them to hook your car up
to the
computer. It should tell you what's wrong with it. It
seems electrical
(computer/sensor) rather than mechanical.
Let us
know what you find,
Paul Butkiewicz
Diablo Enterprises
Norwood,
MA 02062-4012
Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/>
Hi everyone i wrote about a month ago, because my car was not starting.
I
> finally got time to check what i was told to check and that
is the spark
> plugs, they are fine, i have good spark, took the
injectors out and they
are
> fine there is plenty of gas
squirting out, so obiously the fuel pump is
also
> right.
Compression its fine, i took the spark plug out and just inserted
>
the end of the spark cable in the hole so that it was airtight and the
thing
> came out like a bullet when i cranked the engine, so i got
everything to
make the
> engine work, spark, compression and
gas. Now my buddy is 80 percent sure
> that it is a sensor
problem? Would the MAS sensor stop the car from
starting?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 17:34:06
-0600
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: RE:Team3S: Car stil
won't start, please help.
>so i got everything to make the engine
work, spark, compression and gas
There is another factor, and that is
timing. Just a thought.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#638
***************************************
