Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, September 30 2001
Volume 01 : Number
632
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 29 Sep 2001 18:05:58 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
I have done 150 in 4th gear
and the car ran out of steam at about 7000rpm on
stock turbos. When I
shifted to 5th, the car did accelerate a little, and I
probably could have
hit 160mph with another mile or so! Its rock steady at
that speed on
the highway--very smooth and driveable, but the brakes warped
pretty quicly
scrubbing off speed when traffic was approaching vvvery
rapidly. It
kind of falls on its face above 140mph IMHO.
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
To: 'Jannusch,
Matt' <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, September 27, 2001 10:13 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Why do Supras have
so much top-end?
>I'm nervous to do that speed in the Spyder. Did you
have any trouble with
>the top at that speed? I'd like to say I've done
160 - 170 but I'm nervous
>about the top.
>
>1995 Vr-4
Spyder
>Curtis
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
Jannusch, Matt [mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
>Sent: Thursday,
September 27, 2001 4:09 PM
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
>
>
>> I
don't mean 1/4 mi trap speeds. I mean from a roll at
>> 100mph. From
what I understand is at high speeds (using
>> 100mph as a rough
estimate) acceleration is more of a power
>> to aerodynamics ratio as
apposed to power to weight. So
>> weight shouldn't matter? Now that I
have 550 injectors, Denso
>> fuel pump, and bigger turbos would I
have this kind of high
>> speed acceleration?
>
>With
bigger turbos and more fuel and fuel control you can run solid
boost
to
>redline, which gives a big power increase on the
top-end. On stock turbos
>the range from around 5500-7200 is pretty
much useless for big power. So
>that portion should help, and if you
are running race fuel at the time then
>you've got strong power available
running around 19-20 psi which seems to
be
>pretty safe on race fuel
and stock pistons with the usual A/F ratios.
>
>My car pulled pretty
strong from 100 up to 160 last summer when I tried it.
>I'd estimate it
took about 3/4 of a mile to span that range. Its difficult
>to say
where it was in comparison to a modded Supra since things
feel
>"different" at those speeds and it might feel like more than it
is. The
>only thing I can compare it to is the '91 Kawasaki ZX-11 I
used to own
which
>saw 195 on the speedo once. It didn't
accelerate as hard as that thing
did,
>but that's a whole different
game.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 18:45:26
-0700
From: Rick <
melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: HELP: Shifter pops out of 4th gear: 1994 3000gt SL
Hey
man,
You're there, go ahead and take the cover off.You shouldn't loose
much
oil,but now would be a good time to drop it all and put in Redline.If it
is
the 5th gear nut,do not reuse it get a new one(under $5.00) and tighten
it
as tight as you can,then ping the heck out of it with a punch at the
keyway
to lock it in place.Use some good sealer (black RTV) and you're good
to go.
RICK Oh yeah put a little grease
on the spring washer thing to hold
it in place when you put the cover back
on!
RJM wrote:
> Well guys, call me ignorant mechanically I
guess but I am a bit scared
> to open the transmission up (manual 5-speed,
3000gt SL), I took the
> passenger tire off and the little fender well
piece that was hiding the
> transmission bolts but I don't see any
peak
> window that is supposed to make it easy to see the 5th gear
bolt: is it
> the outer-
> upper smaller (kind of shaped like
a half of a lightbulb for lack of a
> better analogy) cover that has about
7 bolts around it??????? Also, I
> am afraid I need
>
HTV (???????) sealer to put the cover back on? I have 3 qts of
manual
> trans fluid from the dealer, should only need a tad more than
2
> according to the manual, if
> I just pull this upper cover off I
shouldn't even need one quart I would
> think. The
> service
manual (p. 22-3) says if it jumps out of gear it can be a "worn
> gear
shift fork or broken poppet spring" ("replace shift fork or poppet
>
spring") or a "synchronizer hub to sleeve spline clearance too large"
>
("replace synchronizer hub and sleeve"). If it is one of these,
how
> would I recognize it? I am thinking I should just take
the car to
> Firestone where I know the people or, heaven forbid, a
transmission
> specialist and have them open it up while we poke around
for these
> things. I wouldn't think the poppet spring would be too
hard to replace
> myself. Can anybody give me some
inspiration/guidance before I take
> this cover off?
Thanks.
> Bob
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 18:48:04
-0700
From: Rick <
melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: HELP: Shifter pops out of 4th gear: 1994 3000gt
SL
Nothing in there to worry about but the spring washer,just watch
where it
comes from and,use a new nut!
RICK
RJM
wrote:
> Oh, and remember guys, the shifter stick doesn't move around
while I am
> in gear and I have never had it pop out of 5th gear, only 4th
(and
> reverse), so am I really going to find anything in the
transmission
> that my inexperienced eye will notice?
>
> RJM
wrote:
>
> > Well guys, call me ignorant mechanically I guess but
I am a bit scared
> > to open the transmission up (manual 5-speed,
3000gt SL), I took the
> > HTV (???????) sealer to put the cover back
on?
>
> > myself. Can anybody give me some
inspiration/guidance before I take
> > this cover off?
Thanks.
> > Bob
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 17:37:05
-0600
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: Boost
Tap
Where is a good place to tap boost preasure for my boost gauge
without
drilling?
T.J.
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 21:11:06
-0500
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: HELP: Shifter pops out of 4th gear: 1994 3000gt SL
Thanks Rick,
where do I get this nut ahead of time (is it best that I get it
from a dealer
to make sure I get the right one?) since at this moment I only
have this
one
car. Appreciate all the help, I put it back together because I need
to go get
the black RTV sealer anyway (not at a Mitsu dealer: $25 a
tube!).
Rick wrote:
> Hey man,
> You're
there, go ahead and take the cover off.You shouldn't loose much
> oil,but
now would be a good time to drop it all and put in Redline.If it is
> the
5th gear nut,do not reuse it get a new one(under $5.00) and tighten it
>
as tight as you can,then ping the heck out of it with a punch at the
keyway
> to lock it in place.Use some good sealer (black RTV) and you're
good to go.
> RICK Oh yeah put a
little grease on the spring washer thing to hold
> it in place when you
put the cover back on!
>
> RJM wrote:
>
> > Well
guys, call me ignorant mechanically I guess but I am a bit scared
> >
to open the transmission up (manual 5-speed, 3000gt SL), I took the
> >
passenger tire off and the little fender well piece that was hiding the
>
> transmission bolts but I don't see any peak
> > window that is
supposed to make it easy to see the 5th gear bolt: is it
> > the
outer-
> > upper smaller (kind of shaped like a half of a lightbulb for
lack of a
> > better analogy) cover that has about 7 bolts around
it??????? Also, I
> > am afraid I need
> > HTV
(???????) sealer to put the cover back on? I have 3 qts of manual
>
> trans fluid from the dealer, should only need a tad more than 2
>
> according to the manual, if
> > I just pull this upper cover off I
shouldn't even need one quart I would
> > think. The
> >
service manual (p. 22-3) says if it jumps out of gear it can be a "worn
>
> gear shift fork or broken poppet spring" ("replace shift fork or
poppet
> > spring") or a "synchronizer hub to sleeve spline clearance
too large"
> > ("replace synchronizer hub and sleeve"). If it is
one of these, how
> > would I recognize it? I am thinking I
should just take the car to
> > Firestone where I know the people
or, heaven forbid, a transmission
> > specialist and have them open it
up while we poke around for these
> > things. I wouldn't think
the poppet spring would be too hard to replace
> > myself. Can
anybody give me some inspiration/guidance before I take
> > this cover
off? Thanks.
> > Bob
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 19:56:54
-0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Chen <
jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Overheating Problem
Well ..... quick intro ... this is JEEPers or
Frank
from 3SI ... I think a few of you guys remember me
from a long time
ago :p the early days of Team3S ..
anyhow .. I got my own car now and it
seems I am still
trying to track down a mysterious overheating
problem.
Question: The car overheats even after a new water
pump
was installed. Dealer did the water pump, t-belt,
tensioner pulley, t-stat,
etc... Anyhow ... Mike, one
of the new guys here was graciously enough to
stop by
my house this morning and help me diagnose and narrow
down the
problem. ... after much trouble-shooting ..
we narrowed the problem down to a
case of maybe the
water pump that I got new might have failed again.
Background info: 2 Days after dealer did service on
car..I had a
overheating problem ... turns out the
Mitsu tech was a moron and someohow
routed the cam
sensor wrong and caused it to overheat and shut down
my
engine. Now. .. I tried putting new T-stat and
after several attempts to see
if t-stat was problem ..
ended up with a blown top radiator hose ... car has
a
situation where I can run uphill and car will slightly
overheat to the
point that reservoir tank steams out
the emergency tube. Then there is/was an
instance
where several times going downhill ... car would
return to normal
temps. (middle pegged between
H/C)...fans do work and right now and at a loss
as to
what to do.
Another Question: Can I bring my car to a
different
Mitsu dealer and have them repair it under the 12K
miles/12
month warranty??? Or should I wait for
paperwork from the service warranty
company. I really
want my car to be done and I thought I might bring it
up
to you guys for opinions and possible ideas to get
this resolved.
Thanks.
-
-Frank-
"JEEPers"
EMERGENCY EMAIL: <
2017479867@mobile.att.net>
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 15:38:27
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Overheating Problem
Maybe a blown
headgasket
Steve
> Background info: 2 Days after dealer did
service on
> car..I had a overheating problem ... turns out the
>
Mitsu tech was a moron and someohow routed the cam
> sensor wrong and
caused it to overheat and shut down
> my engine. Now. .. I tried putting
new T-stat and
> after several attempts to see if t-stat was problem
..
> ended up with a blown top radiator hose ... car has a
>
situation where I can run uphill and car will slightly
> overheat to the
point that reservoir tank steams out
> the emergency tube. Then there
is/was an instance
> where several times going downhill ... car
would
> return to normal temps. (middle pegged between
> H/C)...fans
do work and right now and at a loss as to
> what to do.
>
>
Another Question: Can I bring my car to a different
> Mitsu dealer
and have them repair it under the 12K
> miles/12 month warranty??? Or
should I wait for
> paperwork from the service warranty company. I
really
> want my car to be done and I thought I might bring it
> up
to you guys for opinions and possible ideas to get
> this resolved.
Thanks.
>
>
-Frank-
>
"JEEPers"
> EMERGENCY EMAIL: <
2017479867@mobile.att.net>
>
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 20:19:28
-0800
From: "Charles J. Williams" <
cwilliam@gci.net>
Subject: Team3S: Did
they sell me the wrong size tire?
I just bought a set of studded snow
tires for my car. I had them mounted on
a set of extra rims that I
bought earlier. I haven't mounted the tires/rims
on the car yet.
The snow tires are 225 60 R 16. I figure this to be 0.88
inches taller
than the original. I put my hand between the spring and tire
on my left
front and I'm not convinced I have the needed 0.44 inches of
clearance that I
need. Before I go to the trouble of swapping out the tires
I thought
I'd check to see if anybody has ever put this tall of a tire on
the car
before. Will it work or should I go ahead and take the tires
back?
Thanks
Charles
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 04:54:22
-0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Chen <
jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Overheating Problem
Steve,
I forgot to mention this
before. Mike and I did the
front bank of cylinder compression test and
got
something around 120-150 for 1,3,5 cylinders ... I
believe those are
the front bank of cylinders. We
didn't get a chance to do the rear cylinders.
Anyhow .. I get some light smoking in the morning on
startup
but the weather is cold around here somewhere
in the 50's and I usually don't
get a chance to start
up my car until the weekends.
So what
are definite symptoms since I normally don't
have any kind of white smoke
while driving. Maybe a
weakened head gasket that might be about to go
???
- --- Steve Cooper <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
wrote:
> Maybe a blown headgasket
>
> Steve
-
-Frank-
"JEEPers"
EMERGENCY EMAIL: <
2017479867@mobile.att.net>
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 08:51:38
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Overheating Problem
When we first took Frank's car out
yesterday, it was the first time the car
had been started that day and it was
early in the morning when it's coldest.
The car didn't overheat till about
after 10-15 minutes of moderate and
somewhat spirited driving.
First I
noticed the temp gauge slowly start to creep up, then all of a
sudden it just
shot all the way up and was pegged. We turned the heater on
to dissipate some
of the heat and the heater was blowing out cold air. We
then pulled
over and popped the hood. First thing we noticed was that it
sounding
like the coolant was boiling over and getting shot into the
reservoir
tank. But what we found was that it was shooting out high
pressure
steam that was causing some of the coolant in the reservoir tank to
be
displaced from the dump tube.
Then we also noticed that the top end tank
of the radiator and the upper
radiator hose was hot but the bottom radiator
hose coming from the
thermostat housing and the rest of the radiator was very
cold as if no
coolant had passed through there at all. At this point it
seemed like the
thermostat was not opening. We drove it back and proceeded to
remove the
thermostat.
In thinking that the thermostat may not be
opening, we decided to remove the
thermostat. First thing I notice is that
the bottom part of the thermostat
housing is very close to bone dry. In fact,
looking inside the housing you
can see dry coolant residue inside. Also
the pipe from the water pump to
the thermostat housing is also bone
dry. This then indicates to us that
coolant is not circulating through
out the system probably because of the
water pump. However the day before we
removed the front cam gear covers to
inspect the water pump. Timing
belt was routed correctly under the water
pump pulley and looked to have
correct tension. Also with the car on, the
pump seemed to move ok
without any abnormal noise which indicates the pump
was not seized or had
failed.
Not sure of why the coolant was not circulating, we decided to
put back
everything together without the thermostat to eliminate the
possibility of a
faulty thermostat. We top off the cooling system with water
and take it for
a drive.
Sure enough the car then starts to over heat
when we test drive it however
the temp gauge fluctuates quite frequently
compared to when we first drove
it with the thermostat. With the climate
controls on full heat we notice
that when the car over heats, there is cold
air from the climate controls.
When the temp gauge drops back down, there is
then heat coming from the
climate controls.
It also seems more
apparent that the overheating is related to the car's
position. Driving
upwards on a hill the car would overheat. In a decline
position, or driving
down a hill the car's temp would return back to normal.
This then
indicates to us that coolant isn't effectively being circulated
throughout
the system and that the problem maybe the water pump. But as I
said
before, on vehicle inspection of the pump showed the pump was in
satisfactory
condition.
How else can a water pump fail besides seizing? There also
seems to be no
leaks coming from the water pump.
Michael
Bulaon.
>Well ..... quick intro ... this is JEEPers or
Frank
>from 3SI ... I think a few of you guys remember me
>from a
long time ago :p the early days of Team3S ..
>anyhow .. I got my own car
now and it seems I am still
>trying to track down a mysterious overheating
problem.
>Question: The car overheats even after a new
water
>pump was installed. Dealer did the water pump,
t-belt,
>tensioner pulley, t-stat, etc... Anyhow ... Mike, one
>of
the new guys here was graciously enough to stop by
>my house this morning
and help me diagnose and narrow
>down the problem. ... after much
trouble-shooting ..
>we narrowed the problem down to a case of maybe
the
>water pump that I got new might have failed
again.
>Background info: 2 Days after dealer did service
on
>car..I had a overheating problem ... turns out the
>Mitsu tech
was a moron and someohow routed the cam
>sensor wrong and caused it to
overheat and shut down
>my engine. Now. .. I tried putting new T-stat
and
>after several attempts to see if t-stat was problem ..
>ended
up with a blown top radiator hose ... car has a
>situation where I can run
uphill and car will slightly
>overheat to the point that reservoir tank
steams out
>the emergency tube. Then there is/was an instance
>where
several times going downhill ... car would
>return to normal temps.
(middle pegged between
>H/C)...fans do work and right now and at a loss as
to
>what to do.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 07:26:22
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Boost Tap
Many people cut the fuel pressure regulator hose
and install a "T"
plastic fitting. See the picture on my web page below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-tap.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ---
Thomas Jeys <
tj@jeys.net> wrote:
>
Where is a good place to tap boost preasure for my boost gauge
>
without
> drilling?
>
> T.J.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 14:34:03
-0400
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <
atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: FW: Team3S:
RX7 injectors to RT TT
You are welcomed Jeff
I am "warring" the RX7
injectors for a month and there is not any
significant problem so far. The
true is that I haven't tune the car yet to
the proper A/F rates due to the
fact that here in PR is not any AWD dyno. So
I'm trying by myself to do it
but using APEXi AFC is not so easy. I just
purchase a "home dyno" program in
order to see power and torque curbs. I am
also considering to get the
Dataloger in order to monitor knocking wile
tuning. (Any other ideas?) I have
to check also fuel pressures (thanks for
your idea) due to the fact that I am
using the stock F pump so far. (Witch I
think can give me sufficient pressure
@15psi intake)
If someone needs some of these injectors I can ask the friend
I took mine
for the price of $300 for 6!!! (Used but checked)
Nikos
the Greek
92' RT TT 6 Gear
Puerto Rico
BTW, thanks to whoever gave
us the tip concerning RX7 injectors.
Always nice to know we have
options.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 12:15:59
-0700
From: Todd Schmalzried <
q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject:
Team3S: clutch prices
Hello All,
I fried my stock clutch a while
ago. I was hoping it would come back,
but it keeps getting worse. I'm tired
of driving the truck and need a
clutch. I'm not looking for opinions on which
is better. There's no
right answer. That being said, could anyone who has
been clutch shopping
for an ACT or RPS lately please send me an email with
the prices they
found?
Thanks,
Todd
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 14:14:06
-0800
From: "Charles J. Williams" <
cwilliam@gci.net>
Subject: Team3S: Did
they sell me the wrong size tire?
I didn't get a reply from anybody so I
went ahead and tried them. It's very
close if they fit or not.
Clearance between the tire and the bottom of the
spring is less than
1/32". Not enough for me to be comfortable with. I
took the tire
back off.
The tire dealer is going to swap out the tires for no
charge. He apologized
for the fact that one of his people got the size
wrong. They seem honest
about their mistake.
Charles
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Charles J. Williams
Sent:
Saturday, September 29, 2001 8:19 PM
To:
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.stSubject:
Team3S: Did they sell me the wrong size tire?
I just bought a set of
studded snow tires for my car. I had them mounted on
a set of extra
rims that I bought earlier. I haven't mounted the tires/rims
on the car
yet. The snow tires are 225 60 R 16. I figure this to be
0.88
inches taller than the original. I put my hand between the spring
and tire
on my left front and I'm not convinced I have the needed 0.44 inches
of
clearance that I need. Before I go to the trouble of swapping out
the tires
I thought I'd check to see if anybody has ever put this tall of a
tire on
the car before. Will it work or should I go ahead and take the
tires back?
Thanks
Charles
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#632
***************************************