Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, September 29 2001 Volume 01 : Number 631




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Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 18:15:58 -0500
From: Kar-Yeong Teoh <tkyeong@geocities.com>
Subject: Team3S: Keyless Remote

Hi,

This is a pretty trivial question, I own a 95 Dodge Stealth RT/TT and it
came with a bad keyless remote having only 2 buttons (like the one
showed in the website).

I called up Chrysler, give them my VIN number, and 20 minutes later they
told me I had to call Mit as they don't have any information on my
keyless system. Hence I called up Mit, another 20 minutes later they
gave me a local dealer's number. I called the dealer up and he told me
the 95 Stealth should have the 3 button remotes.

I'm just wonder which one is correct. I called Bill Seidle's Mitsubishi
from the website's FAQ page, the guy told me the $25 price doesn't apply
anymore. The keyless remotes are sold at $45 a pop with free shipping.
Maybe the website should be updated. [:)]

My gut instinct is telling me I should go with the 2-button remotes
since the car came with a defective 2-button remotes. What do you guys
think?

Kar-Yeong
95 RT/TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 18:54:18 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: radio knob needed

I need to get a replacement radio knob, the middle balance control, for the radio in my 1997 VR-4.  Does anyone have one laying
around, or can I buy one somewhere ?

The stock radio is the one with built-in CD player.

Thanks
Anthony Melillo
anthonymelillo@home.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 05:56:27 -0500
From: "Oskar" <osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Keyless Remote

The '95 R/T TT came with the 2 button remote.  $45 is a good price.  Some
dealers will try to take about $125 out of your wallet for the same remote.

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kar-Yeong Teoh" <tkyeong@geocities.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2001 6:15 PM
Subject: Team3S: Keyless Remote

> Hi,
>
> This is a pretty trivial question, I own a 95 Dodge Stealth RT/TT and it
> came with a bad keyless remote having only 2 buttons (like the one
> showed in the website).
>
> I called up Chrysler, give them my VIN number, and 20 minutes later they
> told me I had to call Mit as they don't have any information on my
> keyless system. Hence I called up Mit, another 20 minutes later they
> gave me a local dealer's number. I called the dealer up and he told me
> the 95 Stealth should have the 3 button remotes.
>
> I'm just wonder which one is correct. I called Bill Seidle's Mitsubishi
> from the website's FAQ page, the guy told me the $25 price doesn't apply
> anymore. The keyless remotes are sold at $45 a pop with free shipping.
> Maybe the website should be updated. [:)]
>
> My gut instinct is telling me I should go with the 2-button remotes
> since the car came with a defective 2-button remotes. What do you guys
> think?
>
> Kar-Yeong
> 95 RT/TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 01:38:42 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dyno tuning: the right way and the wrong way. Also Super-AFC discussion

Ok, we are NOT speaking of dyno tuning here !

Yes, the logger is good and then probably another fuel controller as the
550s are not easy to tune in with the AFC. Some did well but better results
came with an ARC or VPC.

> on any Palm OS 3.0 or higher device, costs half of what the TMO logger
does,
> and doesn't require a bulky expensive laptop like the TMO.  Also, the
> Pocketlogger is actually supported with current updates and patches.  For
> the $300 you'll spend on the TMO cable alone, you could buy a PocketLogger
> AND a Palm to run it on :)

Good advertisment, but I'd never change my TMO to a PocketLogger with Palm,
no way. The Palm display is just too small to analyse the data of about 4
values the same time in realtime. Also the PC viewer of the TMO is still
unbeaten. Also can someone expalin me the rpm fluctuations a PocketLogger
shows ? I'm still getting logs to analyze that have strange rpm data in it !
I don't have them with the TMO.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
RTEC Sport Tuning for Europe
www.rtec.ch ... and check out our online shop for the latest additions !

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 01:41:24 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Way OT, but .... PLEASE REMEMBER !!

Guys, we are not a chat-list !
So keep some personal comments off-list and take care of the value in your
post.

Thanks
Roger and the admins !

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 02:11:30 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Random Questions (Sessions 3)

> > with them. No reports on that stuff allover Europe ... do we have
> "stronger
> > vents" ???
> >
> > Roger
> > 93'3000GT TT
>
> Just a thought - maybe you have less temperate climate...

Hmm, my thoughts, although the car sees -15°C in winter and +36°C in summer
(outside the car). But during cleaning I noticed that one has to be careful
with that sutff ;-)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 02:22:39 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RX7 injectors to RT TT

> This is a nice question. I have found a set of injectors (550cc) from
Mazda
> RX7 and they fit perfectly in our cars. (RT TT). Some friend told me that
> maybe the spraying pattern is not the same and this can be critical for
the
> performance. What is your opinions? Did someone tune the car using these
> injectors?

Thes injectors are the normal Denso 550cc and they indeed have a different
spray pattern as ALL other larger injectors have. I have not seen a dual
cone pattern on a larger injector from RC (Lukas or Bosch) or from Denso
(HKS) Looking into our intake, the larger injectors do have a longer nozzle
so the spray will be directed to the intake path diverter wall. When we
ported the heads we took care of this and grinded the wall down about 1cm.
But I runned the 720's before that mod and had no problems then. Also there
is no report on such a problem (although I still don't know why we blew up a
piston on the dyno at 0,85 bar of boost wit all injectors tested and
prooven).

Roger
93'3000GT TT
RTEC Sport Tuning for Europe
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 19:04:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: proportioning valve

Hi Jim,

When I get back home to Pittsburgh I'll take some pics
for you.  Engine is still out.  Trying to find out if
I could put a 92TT engine into my mid '93TT rather
than do a complete rebuild on my '93 motor.

Be of good cheer,
John

- --- Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com> wrote:
> Anyone have pictures of the firewall with the engine
> removed.
> I'm trying to see where the proportioning valve is
> located, I
> think it's below the turbos on the firewall but I
> can't get under
> the front of my car at the moment.
>
> Jim Berry
'93 TT with Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH  5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 20:55:29 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dyno tuning: the right way and the wrong way

At 08:26 AM 9/28/01 , Jeff VanOrsdal wrote:

>Getting to the point, I'd like to discuss two things.  First, is the AFC
>even necessary on this car and second, was the tuning method wrong.

Well, since the question of if the tuning method was wrong got lost in the
AFC discussion, I'll put my 2 cents in.
I spent 3 years tuning cars on a dynojet chassis dyno. The most important
thing in order to get accurate results  is to be consistent.(accurate
meaning the results you get correspond to the tuning you are doing, not the
operating conditions of the vehicle) The first couple pulls will always
result in higher HP numbers because during this time, the engine/drive
train are getting up to operating temp. Before doing any tuning, you should
make baseline pulls until you have 3 consecutive pulls that show nearly the
same curves. During this process, you should have some type of scan tool
hooked up, and each pull should start at the same coolant temp, (usually
about the time the radiator fan turns off) gear, and RPM. You should also
have a strong fan directly in front of the radiator/bumper. Once you have
your baseline, adjust you timing/fuel (or whatever it is you are tuning) in
increments, making 3 pulls between adjustments. Remember to start at the
same coolant temp you did for your baseline.

That's basically it......you keep adjusting in increments until there is no
more power to be gained.

Coolant temp is the most reliable start point, because changes in temp can
effect the power output as much as the tuning you are doing.

Of course you also want to monitor knock (by ear as much as machine), A/F
ratio, etc.

Wayne

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 23:14:08 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: FW: Team3S: Why do the TTs' rear camber go out of allignment so easily?

OK, tried this once, it bounced...

- -----Original Message-----
From: cody [mailto:overclck@starband.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 11:09 PM
To: 'MIHAI RAICU'; Team3S (team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Why do the TTs' rear camber go out of allignment so
easily?

Its not that they get out of alignment, or the alignment changes... Its
probably a shoddy alignment to start with...  My car when I lowered it
was this way, as it couldn't be adjusted any more.  I had to sacrifice
toe for camber and vice versa.  Toe will quickly wear out a tire.  Did
he get spec sheets on the actual alignment.  If not, he should have.
Honestly, I would get my tires replaced, and take the car to a different
alignment shop.  It is evident this one didn't know what they were
doing.  Then, I would send the bill for the whole thing to them. 

I do repeat, its not that the car came out of alignment, its that they
weren't aligned properly to start.

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of MIHAI RAICU
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 11:07 PM
To: Team
Subject: Team3S: Why do the TTs' rear camber go out of allignment so
easily?

Everyone,

My brother (94 TT)just ruined a set of brand new NITTO 255
245/45WR17 on the inside due to the rear of the car being set
@ ?-3 to -5 deg.  He had his allignment done 10K ago when he
lowered his car with Eichback springs.

He suffered a flat, ruined one tire, and replaced two tires
(so they can be the same diameter).  He drove from Calif. to
Michigan 3400 miles on two new tires and two 10K tires (same
brand).  350 miles away from home, he ran over an uneveness
on the highway (in Chicago) due to construction.  He was
going 70 mph and it was like he hit a curb head on.  After
that the steering wheel was shaking @ 80 mph.  Later he found
out it was due to a lost lead weight (from the impact).  Rims
were undamage.  Front allignment seems fine, however the rear
camber is visibly too agressive (- deg).  He had gotten past
the steel belts on the inside of his rear tires.  Thank
goodness there was too much traffic and he couldn't go more
than 80 on the last stretch home.  You can immagine he did a
few faster runs in his long trip home.  And he checked his
tire pressure daily.  Next time I go on long trips I have to
make an effort to look at the inside of the tires too.

Why do our cars go out of spec on the rear so often?  I had
an allignment done to my 95 VR4, and the rear was more out of
spec than the front.

Can't those bolts be tightened down better?

- -MIHAI RAICU-

95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R (1 atm)
Greedy Type-S BOV
BF Goodrich SS Brake Lines
Falken FK-451 245/40/YR18
- -- Wayne State University --
- ---- School of Medicine ----
- ------- Detroit, MI --------

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 04:42:43 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Keyless Remote

Depends on if they are going to charge resetting it also.  This is a little
tricky but anyone handy with a screwdriver, small hands, and the patience to
take off the rear inside panel (to the left of the rear passenger seat) and
get to the switch can do it.  If the dealer takes an hour then they charge
their $50/hour and hit you with $50 plus $45 or so for the part so around
$100.

The first time it took me about 90 minutes (had to learn where all the
screws were).  The second took me about 25 minutes (I looked at Lucius' site
for pictures of where the screws were located).  The third time took me 12
seconds (the panels were off from installing the rollbar so it was real
easy).

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and TWO working two-key keyless remotes

- -----Original Message-----
From: Oskar
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2001 6:56 AM

The '95 R/T TT came with the 2 button remote.  $45 is a good price.  Some
dealers will try to take about $125 out of your wallet for the same remote.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 04:52:13 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dipstick reading

Thanks guys.  Guess a picture doesn't prove anything.

- - The dipstick is being inserted all the way.
- - The oil is having time to drain (I did this after a night of sitting for
8+ hours in 50 degree F weather, after I let it idle for 5 minutes then shut
it off, then I ran some errands and got it nice and hot and checked it
again, and then later that night after it did not move for 6 hours.)
- - The car is on level ground

My only guess is that it is getting scraped off (on the one side that looks
"clean" if you zoom in you will see that there is actually oil on the bottom
third or so of the dipstick so it is not getting wiped clean - like a gasket
is rubbing it just enough to clean it).  I did insert the dipstick
180-degrees around and got the same result (one side toward front of car
clean and part toward back of car with oil clear up to the bends).

Not sure.  I just listen for the tick-tick-tick then add a half quart or so.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2001 12:38 PM

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>

> For it to be absolutely dry on one side I'd say that the oil level is only
> going that far up the dipstick.  It's possible, although highly unlikely,
> that the dipstick is being cleaned off to the point that it's dry on just
> that side.  I'd bet that on the flip side, there is oil splattered in the
> dipstick tube that is causing it to be wet on that side.

I'd second the above statements --- the pictures show no oil residue on
one side of the dipstick --- in order to wipe it that clean you'd have to
have
a rag in the tube. The oil on the one side is probably being picked up
on the side of the tube or the block.

you're just going to have to play around untill you get a test that works.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 02:34:52 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dipstick reading

Darren, have you thought about a good engine flush before the next oil
change. You may have some oil deposits on one side of the wall where the
stick goes to. Just an idea :-)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 7:44 PM
Subject: Team3S: Dipstick reading

> Remember the complaints about my dipstick not giving accurate readings?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 06:02:08 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dipstick reading

Good idea, Rog.  I was actually thinking of getting a good "colon cleaning"
on the car from an oil flush to radiator and a few misc. parts in between.
I'll let everyone know what the results are in a bunch of weeks.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 @ 74k miles

- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2001 8:35 PM

Darren, have you thought about a good engine flush before the next oil
change. You may have some oil deposits on one side of the wall where the
stick goes to. Just an idea :-)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 07:46:28 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dipstick reading

If you add oil does the level go up on both sides or just one --- if you're
picking up oil from the side of the block that level shouldn't change and
the other should or just the opposite if it's being wiped off.

        Jim Berry
=================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Darren Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: Team3S <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2001 1:52 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dipstick reading

> Thanks guys.  Guess a picture doesn't prove anything.
>
> - The dipstick is being inserted all the way.
> - The oil is having time to drain (I did this after a night of sitting for
> 8+ hours in 50 degree F weather, after I let it idle for 5 minutes then shut
> it off, then I ran some errands and got it nice and hot and checked it
> again, and then later that night after it did not move for 6 hours.)
> - The car is on level ground
>
> My only guess is that it is getting scraped off (on the one side that looks
> "clean" if you zoom in you will see that there is actually oil on the bottom
> third or so of the dipstick so it is not getting wiped clean - like a gasket
> is rubbing it just enough to clean it).  I did insert the dipstick
> 180-degrees around and got the same result (one side toward front of car
> clean and part toward back of car with oil clear up to the bends).
>
> Not sure.  I just listen for the tick-tick-tick then add a half quart or so.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Berry
> Sent: Friday, September 28, 2001 12:38 PM
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
>
> > For it to be absolutely dry on one side I'd say that the oil level is only
> > going that far up the dipstick.  It's possible, although highly unlikely,
> > that the dipstick is being cleaned off to the point that it's dry on just
> > that side.  I'd bet that on the flip side, there is oil splattered in the
> > dipstick tube that is causing it to be wet on that side.
>
> I'd second the above statements --- the pictures show no oil residue on
> one side of the dipstick --- in order to wipe it that clean you'd have to
> have
> a rag in the tube. The oil on the one side is probably being picked up
> on the side of the tube or the block.
>
> you're just going to have to play around untill you get a test that works.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 13:03:08 -0400
From: MIHAI RAICU <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Way OT, but I will suffer the wrath of Bob anyhow

Geoff,

Don't even pay attention to those accusations.  What you are
doing is great.  People always have the option to buy from
somewhere else.  They can just do that, and not complain.

PS.  Thanks for the speedytoys.com account.

- -MIHAI RAICU-
95 Red VR4

Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 09:46:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Way OT, but I will suffer the wrath of Bob
anyhow

There has been some heated discussion whether I am using my
PF discount to
bilk, cheat, and rob fellow members on this list.  (substitue
other verbs
if you feel those are too strong..but you get the point)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 12:34:15 -0500
From: RJM <rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject: Team3S: HELP: Shifter pops out of 4th gear: 1994 3000gt SL

Well guys, call me ignorant mechanically I guess but I am a bit scared
to open the transmission up (manual 5-speed, 3000gt SL), I took the
passenger tire off and the little fender well piece that was hiding the
transmission bolts but I don't see any peak
window that is supposed to make it easy to see the 5th gear bolt:  is it
the outer-
upper smaller (kind of shaped like a half of a lightbulb for lack of a
better analogy) cover that has about 7 bolts around it???????   Also, I
am afraid I need
HTV (???????) sealer to put the cover back on?  I have 3 qts of manual
trans fluid from the dealer, should only need a tad more than 2
according to the manual, if
I just pull this upper cover off I shouldn't even need one quart I would
think.  The
service manual (p. 22-3) says if it jumps out of gear it can be a "worn
gear shift fork or broken poppet spring" ("replace shift fork or poppet
spring") or a "synchronizer hub to sleeve spline clearance too large"
("replace synchronizer hub and sleeve").  If it is one of these, how
would I recognize it?   I am thinking I should just take the car to
Firestone  where I know the people or, heaven forbid, a transmission
specialist and have them open it up while we poke around for these
things.  I wouldn't think the poppet spring would be too hard to replace
myself.  Can anybody give me some inspiration/guidance before I take
this cover off?   Thanks.
Bob

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 12:41:34 -0500
From: RJM <rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: HELP: Shifter pops out of 4th gear: 1994 3000gt SL

Oh, and remember guys, the shifter stick doesn't move around while I am
in gear and I have never had it pop out of 5th gear, only 4th (and
reverse), so am I really going to find anything in the transmission
that my inexperienced eye will notice?

RJM wrote:

> Well guys, call me ignorant mechanically I guess but I am a bit scared
> to open the transmission up (manual 5-speed, 3000gt SL), I took the
> HTV (???????) sealer to put the cover back on?

> myself.  Can anybody give me some inspiration/guidance before I take
> this cover off?   Thanks.
> Bob

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 16:20:59 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RX7 injectors to RT TT

Hey Roger, looked over your website before very interesting info.  Now I
have to ask how much fuel pressure are you running?  from the sounds of
things you had an injector lock up and they is why you blew a piston.  Keep
in mind while for every pound of boost you want your fuel pressure to go up
by 1 psi you NEVER want to go over 70 psi at full tilt.  The fuel system I a
working out for my car right now is going to be running 850CC injectors so I
do not have to run high pressure through my fuel system. My Target goal is
no more than 60 psi of fuel at 25  pounds of boost out of a pair of 357
Magnums.

Russ F
CT

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl [SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> Sent: Friday, September 28, 2001 8:23 PM
> To: Team3s
> Subject: Re: Team3S: RX7 injectors to RT TT
>
> When we
ported the heads we took care of this and grinded the wall down
about 1cm.
> But I runned the 720's before that mod and had no problems then. Also
> there
> is no report on such a problem (although I still don't know why we blew up
> a
> piston on the dyno at 0,85 bar of boost wit all injectors tested and
> prooven).
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> RTEC Sport Tuning for Europe
> www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 13:46:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RX7 injectors to RT TT

Quick review:
The base FP in the turbo models is ~43 psi away from idle. With the
stock FPR, the FP increases ~1 psi for every 1 psi increase in boost.
However, while line pressure is increasing, the pressure *across* the
fuel injector remains at ~43 psi (or close to it depending on how
well the FPR works).

The injector does not see 68 psi of pressure at 25 psi of boost. The
25 psi of boost pressure in the plenum is pushing against the 68 psi
of fuel line pressure. The net pressure is 43 psi across the
injector. The injector flows the same amount of fuel per millisecond
at 0 psi boost as it does at 25 psi boost (assuming the FPR is doing
its job correctly).

While it is true that many manufacturers recommend keeping line
pressure at the injector less than 60-80 psi, this is something our
cars do not have to worry about at even the highest boost pressures
(as discussed above).

BTW, thanks to whoever gave us the tip concerning RX7 injectors.
Always nice to know we have options.

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- --- "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com> wrote:
> Hey Roger, looked over your website before very interesting info.
> Now I
> have to ask how much fuel pressure are you running?  from the
> sounds of
> things you had an injector lock up and they is why you blew a
> piston.  Keep
> in mind while for every pound of boost you want your fuel pressure
> to go up
> by 1 psi you NEVER want to go over 70 psi at full tilt.  The fuel
> system I a
> working out for my car right now is going to be running 850CC
> injectors so I
> do not have to run high pressure through my fuel system. My Target
> goal is
> no more than 60 psi of fuel at 25  pounds of boost out of a pair of
> 357
> Magnums.
>
> Russ F
> CT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 17:59:12 EDT
From: RDO26@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RX7 injectors to RT TT and other related things

My $0.02:

I did a search on eBay a few week ago for 550 injectors.

The RX7 injectors came up with a picture. From what I was able to gather,
they have 4 injectors- 2 primaries and 2 secondaries, the photo showed them
and the injector tips looked slightly different for the 2 pairs. I sent a few
emails out trying to find out if there was any difference in them (beside the
appearance), but no one answered.

Secondly,  I always hear about how MKVI Supras are side feed and 3000GTs are
side feed injectors and that's why we can't use Supra injectors. Well, I've
never seen the Supra injectors, so when I saw this pic, I got more confused!

http://store.yahoo.com/turboimports/usfac93supin.html

Are they using the right pic or am I missing something?

Additionally, I took a great deal of interest in what was said in this thread
about the use of domestic injectors in DSMs (and potentially in our cars):

http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=266f3e56ff36d91e9eb39a88ad4213a2&threa

did=45968

Lastly (if anyone has stuck with me  this far), anyone know what's going on
this that one person who was trying to get the 3.5 liter Montero block to fit
in our cars?  He said something to Roger Gerl about having one in his garage
and doing a test fitting. I posted about that once on this list but no one
ever answered. That was many months ago.

Ron


In a message dated 9/29/2001 4:47:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
stealthman92@yahoo.com writes:

<< BTW, thanks to whoever gave us the tip concerning RX7 injectors.
 Always nice to know we have options.
 
 Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
  >>

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #631
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