Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, September 28 2001
Volume 01 : Number
630
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 Sep 2001 17:29:24 -0400
From: "Jason Barnhart" <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
Bigger turbos, bigger
injectors, bigger fuel pump. They can easily turn 11s
at over 120mph on
stock turbos. They are geared a little steeper, I think
100mph is the
top of 3rd, which will help their acceleration a bit. We're
also at a
weight disadvantage.
Jason
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Curtis McConnel" <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, September 27, 2001 4:56 PM
Subject: Team3S: Why do Supras have so
much top-end?
> Hey everyone,
>
> Why is this the case?
Are they geared better? I was just wondering now
that
> I have upgraded
turbos if I'd have top end (100+ mph) like them.
>
> 95 Vr-4
Spyder
> Curtis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 17:31:28
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gtech- Pro
yeah, on my NT I can't recall more than 168 HP, using
3400 lbs.
That is stock everything, and 6 months on stock yoko 225s at
street pressure.
15.2 - 15.4 qtr times. Almost 5 years ago.
Haven't checked this lately.
PS. In case it wasn't answered, the
GTech will show 60-0 stopping feet if you brake hard anytime after it flahes the
0-60 time, but before reaching the qtr mile distance. On the way down, it waits
until you are back to 60mph before beginning the calculation.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Richard
[mailto:radanc@home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 5:25 PM
To:
jeffv@1nce.comCc: Team3s Tech
List
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gtech- Pro
Thats right. Generally at least
25% HP loss from crank through the
drivetrain. This means closer to 230 HP
stock!
Jeff VanOrsdal wrote:
>
> The weight sounds about
right. A friend of mine weighed his 91 Stealth TT
> with himself, a
subwoofer box and a half tank of gas and came out to 4080
> lbs. I
wouldn't take the HP estimate too seriously. I doubt the GTech has a
>
built in correction for AWD losses.
>
> Jeff VanOrsdal
> 1991
Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
>
jeffv@1nce.com>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Payne, Scott
> Sent:
Tuesday, September 25, 2001 10:44 AM
> To: Team3S (E-mail)
>
Subject: Team3S: Gtech- Pro
>
> Just got my new toy. A GTech-pro
and had a few questions.
> I have a 94 Stealth Twin Turbo with K&N
Fliter Charger Kit as my only mod.
> I entered in a weight of 4119 lbs.
That is my first question. I got this
> weight from the drivers side door
panel and subtracted 180 lbs per missing
> passager as instructed by
Gtech. This weight sounds high to me.
> Second question is what HP numbers
have you guys come up with? I average 275
> HP according to Gtech. That
sounds really low to me. Although one time it
> did read 295. What method
do you guys use to get HP readings from your
> Gtech's? I simply
accelerate to 6500 RPM's in 1st and second gear. I never
> hit 6500 RPM's
in 3rd because my speed exceeds 120 MPH which is where Gtech
> cuts
out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 17:46:18
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
I don't mean 1/4 mi trap
speeds. I mean from a roll at 100mph. From what I
understand is at high
speeds (using 100mph as a rough estimate) acceleration
is more of a power to
aerodynamics ratio as apposed to power to weight. So
weight shouldn't matter?
Now that I have 550 injectors, Denso fuel pump, and
bigger turbos would
I have this kind of high speed acceleration?
Curtis
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Barnhart
[mailto:phnxgld@erols.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 3:29 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
Bigger turbos, bigger
injectors, bigger fuel pump. They can easily turn 11s
at over 120mph on
stock turbos. They are geared a little steeper, I think
100mph is the
top of 3rd, which will help their acceleration a bit. We're
also at a
weight disadvantage.
Jason
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Curtis McConnel" <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, September 27, 2001 4:56 PM
Subject: Team3S: Why do Supras have so
much top-end?
> Hey everyone,
>
> Why is this the case?
Are they geared better? I was just wondering now
that
> I have upgraded
turbos if I'd have top end (100+ mph) like them.
>
> 95 Vr-4
Spyder
> Curtis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 17:08:58
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
> I don't mean 1/4 mi
trap speeds. I mean from a roll at
> 100mph. From what I understand is at
high speeds (using
> 100mph as a rough estimate) acceleration is more of
a power
> to aerodynamics ratio as apposed to power to weight. So
> weight shouldn't matter? Now that I have 550 injectors, Denso
>
fuel pump, and bigger turbos would I have this kind of high
> speed
acceleration?
With bigger turbos and more fuel and fuel control you can
run solid boost to
redline, which gives a big power increase on the
top-end. On stock turbos
the range from around 5500-7200 is pretty much
useless for big power. So
that portion should help, and if you are
running race fuel at the time then
you've got strong power available running
around 19-20 psi which seems to be
pretty safe on race fuel and stock pistons
with the usual A/F ratios.
My car pulled pretty strong from 100 up to 160
last summer when I tried it.
I'd estimate it took about 3/4 of a mile to span
that range. Its difficult
to say where it was in comparison to a modded
Supra since things feel
"different" at those speeds and it might feel like
more than it is. The
only thing I can compare it to is the '91 Kawasaki
ZX-11 I used to own which
saw 195 on the speedo once. It didn't
accelerate as hard as that thing did,
but that's a whole different
game.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 15:09:35
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Speed Bleeders
From my previous post:
"All other AWD
calipers should use the 10 mm bleeders."
"All" in this case includes cars
manufactured before 3/92. Maybe a
Team member with a pre 3/92 car will
measure the rear bleeder valve
size for us. Does it take an 8-mm wrench or
10-mm wrench?
What is puzzling is why would MMC choose 7-mm bleeders for
the 14
month period mentioned? A supply problem perhaps? The caliper
would
have to be tapped for the 7mm x 10 (I think) thread size rather
than
the 10mm x 10 size. Seems like a lot of trouble to retool for no
real
advantage/disadvantage (the insides should be the same for
both).
Here is a pic of the Speed Bleeder and the stock
bleeder.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/nlucius/n-2-spdbldr.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
To: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, September 27, 2001 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Speed
Bleeders
Jeff;
You do not account for sizes before 3/92. Do
you have information on
them?
Best
Darc
> When I
talked to the owner of Speed Bleeders, he seemed aware of
the
>
different sizes needed for our cars. Some confusion will arise over
> the
7 vs 8 mm for the rear. The thread size is 7 mm for the
3/92-5/93
>
production dates only rear calipers (again AWD, I don't know about
> FWD
models). The *wrench* size is 8 mm. Normally wrench and thread
> size
match, but not in this case. All other AWD calipers should use
> the 10 mm
bleeders. The clutch slave cylinder uses a 10 mm bleeder.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 18:08:02
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
I'm nervous to do that speed
in the Spyder. Did you have any trouble with
the top at that speed? I'd like
to say I've done 160 - 170 but I'm nervous
about the top.
1995 Vr-4
Spyder
Curtis
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 15:17:44
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Caliper paint
I wonder why calipers come painted from the
factory? Why aren't
Mitsu, Wilwood, Brembo, AP, Porsche, etc. selling dull,
unpainted,
rough surface calipers? Could be that while the statement below
may
be true, the actual difference it makes in performance
is
insignificant?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
"cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Cc:
"Team3S" <
team3s@mail.speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Thursday, September 27, 2001 2:22 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Caliper
paint
<snip> The caliper needs to be as cool as it
can be, and
reducing a porous dull metal to a shiny smooth surface
works against the idea
of dissipating heat.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 17:17:53
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
> I'm nervous to do
that speed in the Spyder. Did you have any
> trouble with the top at that
speed? I'd like to say I've done
> 160 - 170 but I'm nervous about the
top.
The top was down at the time... Just make sure the decklid
latches are
secure. :-)
I've gone up to about 130-135 with the
top up - its pretty solid, but the
side rear windows let quite a bit of air
through. Doesn't seem to cause a
problem though. One of the
magazines had a Spyder VR4 up to 155 with the
top up and didn't have a
problem.
I'm not saying its "safe", but a few quick sprints up to that
speed haven't
caused issues with my own car.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 18:51:08
-0400
From: "Jason Barnhart" <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
The two go hand in
hand... They're traps are high because they're
strong from a
roll. We're talking 500hp potential on stock turbos.
Aerodynamics is most certainly a factor, but power to weight is
always
going to affect acceleration. Weight of the given vehicle might
not
play a large part in the actual top speed, but if you're acceleration
is
limited by the power/weight ratio then it'll take a longer to get
there.
Even though you're talking about a fast roll, you're still talking
about
acceleration. A Supra is going to come in around 500lbs lighter,
that
one hell of a difference that you'll have to make up with
power.
You really haven't given enough detail for anyone to determine
whether
you'll hang with a Supra from a roll or not. Have you made any
passes,
have you had the car dyno'd? How big are 'bigger'
turbos?
And Supras still have a gearing advantage when it comes to
acceleration.
I'd be willing to bet you'd still get pulled on by a BPU
Supra.
One of the 3/Sers has a BPU'd Supra, actually it's only got a drop
in
filter (not open element), Halman manual boost controller. Downpipe
and
catback exhaust. Before doing the exhaust work, just the filter
and
boost controller he turned an 11.8. This is with drag radials,
before
the drag radials he spun so bad he was turning high 12s. Since
then
he's turned almost 119 but hasn't had optimal track support for
hooking
up and has been stuck in the low 12s.
Jason
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 19:00:44
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
I've just upgraded to 17g's
ARC II controller, 550 injectors, Supra fuel
pump, and Sperco Water
injection. I was BPU before and have been told with
race gas and water
injection should be about 600hp @20psi. (I won't run this
on a regular basis)
I can't imagine a BPU Supra would pull on me at high
speeds even if I was
running 18psi. I haven't run at the track but would
imagine mid 12's (in
Denver 5800ft) at about 115-120 traps. Am I crazy?
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 19:15:00
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Reminder
Yo Team;
It's a quiet time, the pregnant pause
between discussions, so I can
squeeze a couple of reminders
in before "you all" begin your new onslaughts
1) Be certain you have your
facts straight before posting. Anyone following
your thread in the
archives may stop when they get to your first wrong
answer, before you
realized your error and corrected it in the next posting,
which they do not
read.
2) Be polite and remember gentlemanly conduct is our creed. Not all of
us
live n North America, and not even all of us are like Roger who
understands
our crazy idiosynchracies. Be ambassadors
first.
Best
Darc.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 23:44:21
-0400
From: MIHAI RAICU <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Physics Question for the racers?
Flash,
Thanks for the reply
Flash, but my question was only
theoretical in nature. I asked 2
separate questions so that
I could understand the VR4 (and all other
cars') dynamics
better.
Someone answered my e-mail off-list and gave
me the answer I
was looking for. Iā€™ll keep him anonymous, in case he
wishes
it so, however he had prior experience on the topic and the
thinking makes sense.
1) How to turn most effectively in one
direction only, with
our TTs while having all the same wheels/tire
combination
(ie. 18" rims, 245/40-18 tires) and even tire pressure (42/38
F/R) on the fronts and on the backs?
His answer: FOR RIGHT TURN: Have
-10deg right wheels and + 5
deg left wheels (the actual numbers are not
important, but
the concept is to me for understanding purposes)
2)
Different experiment: How to break most effectively in a
straight
line?
His answer: Set the fronts at +0.5 to compensate for nose
dive,
[and I guess the rears @ -0.5 to compensate for upwards
travel --> my
idea as an afterthought].
My question was simply a theoretical one
without much
application, as I do not intend to drive oval tracks. I
just
wanted to understand the car dynamics better, so I thought
there is
no better place to find out from, than the list.
Hence I asked the
question, and a few people answered.
- -MIHAI RAICU-
95 Red
VR4
>Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 12:51:43 -0400
>From: "Darren
Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Physics Question for the racers?
>
>Yes it is possible
to do the camber as you suggest but it is
>highly NOT
>recommended. Have you ever seen an Outlaw dirt car drive
>straight down the
>straight? Didn't think so.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 00:06:39
-0400
From: MIHAI RAICU <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Why
do the TTs' rear camber go out of allignment so
easily?
Everyone,
My brother (94 TT)just ruined a set of brand new
NITTO 255
245/45WR17 on the inside due to the rear of the car being set
@ ?-3 to -5 deg. He had his allignment done 10K ago when he
lowered his car with Eichback springs.
He suffered a flat, ruined one
tire, and replaced two tires
(so they can be the same diameter). He
drove from Calif. to
Michigan 3400 miles on two new tires and two 10K tires
(same
brand). 350 miles away from home, he ran over an uneveness
on the highway (in Chicago) due to construction. He was
going 70
mph and it was like he hit a curb head on. After
that the steering
wheel was shaking @ 80 mph. Later he found
out it was due to a lost
lead weight (from the impact). Rims
were undamage. Front
allignment seems fine, however the rear
camber is visibly too agressive (-
deg). He had gotten past
the steel belts on the inside of his rear
tires. Thank
goodness there was too much traffic and he couldn't go
more
than 80 on the last stretch home. You can immagine he did a
few faster runs in his long trip home. And he checked his
tire
pressure daily. Next time I go on long trips I have to
make an effort
to look at the inside of the tires too.
Why do our cars go out of spec on
the rear so often? I had
an allignment done to my 95 VR4, and the rear
was more out of
spec than the front.
Can't those bolts be tightened
down better?
- -MIHAI RAICU-
95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R (1
atm)
Greedy Type-S BOV
BF Goodrich SS Brake Lines
Falken FK-451
245/40/YR18
- -- Wayne State University --
- ---- School of Medicine
----
- ------- Detroit, MI --------
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 00:27:46
-0400
From: MIHAI RAICU <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Why do the TTs' rear camber go out of allignment so
easily?
Cody,
Really, his car was alligned almost within spec (a
little
negative camber ue to the lower springs). He drove his car
for 10000 miles with even wear everywhere. He then had a
flat and
replaced the 2 rear tires as a result. He rove home
and after the
Chicago highway construction curb incident, he
ecied to have his tires
reballanced to get rid of the shaking
steering wheel.
Then, he saw in
horror what the rears looked like (he could
see below the steel belts on the
iside trac). By looking, I
can see that the rears are set very
agressively (? - 5 deg?),
while the fronts look perpenicular to the
ground. This car
went out of allignment between California and
Michigan (3400
miles), however, most likely only 350 miles away (in
Chicago).
I have seen the allignment move towards negative camber on my
95 VR4, my 93 Stealth, and now my brothers 94 TT. It is a
flaw,
unless someone can show me otherwise.
- -MIHAI-
- ---- Original
message ----
>Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 23:08:33 -0500
>From: "cody"
<
overclck@starband.net>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Why do the TTs' rear camber go out of
allignment so easily?
>To: "'MIHAI RAICU'" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>, "Team3S"
<
team3s@mail.speedtoys.com>
>
>Its
not that they get out of alignment, or the alignment
changes...
Its
>probably a shoddy alignment to start with... My car when I
lowered it
>was this way, as it couldn't be adjusted any more. I
had to
sacrifice
>toe for camber and vice versa. Toe will
quickly wear out a
tire. Did
>he get spec sheets on the actual
alignment. If not, he
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 21:40:49
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why do the TTs' rear camber go out of allignment so
easily?
Sounds like a shop that had no clue what they were
doing.
The only way it could slip out of alignment like that..was
improper
procedure.
Also..youd think people paid attentio to thier
cars enough to notice
enough neg. camber to look like an F1 racer.
On
Fri, 28 Sep 2001, MIHAI RAICU wrote:
> Cody,
>
> Really,
his car was alligned almost within spec (a little
> negative camber ue to
the lower springs). He drove his car
> for 10000 miles with even
wear everywhere. He then had a
> flat and replaced the 2 rear tires
as a result. He rove home
> and after the Chicago highway
construction curb incident, he
> ecied to have his tires reballanced to
get rid of the shaking
> steering wheel.
>
> Then, he saw in
horror what the rears looked like (he could
> see below the steel belts
on the iside trac). By looking, I
> can see that the rears are set
very agressively (? - 5 deg?),
> while the fronts look perpenicular to
the ground. This car
> went out of allignment between California
and Michigan (3400
> miles), however, most likely only 350 miles away (in
Chicago).
>
> I have seen the allignment move towards negative
camber on my
> 95 VR4, my 93 Stealth, and now my brothers 94 TT. It
is a
> flaw, unless someone can show me otherwise.
>
>
-MIHAI-
* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *
1993 Celica
AllTrac
USA
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 08:23:29
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
I don't think they weigh
as much, I think they run humongous boost
pressures, I think they have
sequential turbos rather than parallel turbos
which may or may not make any
difference, and you may be in the wrong gear!
VR4's need to be at high rpm to
get good boost and torque.
Chuck (op ed)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 08:27:50
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
?
Matt, what rpms are
you saying are useful for stock turbos?
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jannusch, Matt
[SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 5:09
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
>
> On
stock turbos
> the range from around 5500-7200 is pretty much useless for
big power.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 08:32:32
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speed Bleeders
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Jeff Lucius [SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 27,
2001 5:10 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Speed Bleeders
>
>
> "All" in this case
includes cars manufactured before 3/92. Maybe a
> Team member with a pre
3/92 car will measure the rear bleeder valve
> size for us. Does it take
an 8-mm wrench or 10-mm wrench?
>
> [it takes an 8 mm wrench, but
I think it really is a 7 mm thread.]
>
> What is puzzling is why
would MMC choose 7-mm bleeders for the 14
> month period mentioned? A
supply problem perhaps? The caliper would
> have to be tapped for the 7mm
x 10 (I think) thread size rather than
> the 10mm x 10 size. Seems like a
lot of trouble to retool for no real
> advantage/disadvantage (the insides
should be the same for both).
>
> [if you look at the first
generation single piston floating rear caliper,
> you will see that it is
the very same caliper used on many Mitsubishi
> light TRUCKS. So it
wasn't a supply problem, it was taking a caliper
> already in production
for many, many vehicles worldwide. I wonder what
> the Starion
(predecessor to the 3000GT) one of the first four wheel disk
> brake
production cars) had on it?]
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 08:33:34
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
just as you should
be.
Bonneville might be a nice place to try this.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Curtis McConnel
[SMTP:CMcConnel@Pulte.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 5:08
PM
> To: 'Jannusch, Matt';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
>
> I'm
nervous to do that speed in the Spyder. Did you have any trouble with
>
the top at that speed? I'd like to say I've done 160 - 170 but I'm
nervous
> about the top.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 08:43:47
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why do the TTs' rear camber go out of allignment so e
asily?
[Willis, Charles E.] You must be suspicious of the guy who
did the
alignment. The rear wheels CANNOT be aligned properly without
disconnecting
the all wheel steering linkage.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 08:57:53
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why do Supras have so much top-end?
> Matt, what rpms are
you saying are useful for stock turbos?
The biggest power on stock 9b
turbos is between 3000 RPM and 5500 RPM.
There's still some left up to 6000
RPM, but anywhere above that it is better
to shift to the next gear to get
back into the powerband. Its almost like a
2-stroke with the small
turbos on. 15G's (or whatever experimental turbo
you happen to like)
are a huge improvement in making it drive more like a
4-stroke.
:-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 16:20:23
+0200 (MEST)
From: <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Random Questions (Sessions 3)
> 1) How do you change the
dome lamp? I have the import bulbs, just wondering how the hell do you get to
it.
Snap it out with a scredriver
> 2) Headlight, I have sylvia
kewl blue ones for the 1991, anyone else with the pop up style headlight want to
tell me how the hell to get to them?
Remove the top and rear
part
> 3) Sport/Touring, what's the difference, and whattya do when
the knob falls off?
For the difference read the owners manual. When knob
falls of I'd push it back in (it snaps in if not broken)
> 4) Vents on
to of dashboard, are they supposed to snapped into place?
Yes
>
5) Brake rotors? What should I do, I know I need some new ones..
Buy
Porterfield cryo ones... email Geoff mohler privately for a quote :
gemohler@www.speedtoys.comRoger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 07:13:16
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Random Questions (Sessions 3)
>
> > 4) Vents on to of
dashboard, are they supposed to snapped into place?
>
>
Yes
If his car is like most of ours the vents are broken and will not
snap back
in place --- a search of the archives should give you more
information
than you care to
read.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 16:42:46
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Random Questions (Sessions 3)
>If his car is like most of
ours the vents are broken and will not snap back
>in place --- a search of
the archives should give you more information
>than you care to
read.
Ah, yep ... true :) My car is one of the others who never had a
problem
with them. No reports on that stuff allover Europe ... do we have
"stronger
vents" ???
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 10:46:03
-0400
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Random Questions (Sessions 3)
Well mine are broken and I want to
replace them. The passengers side vent
has a small sensor in it for the
Climate Control. Anybody know where to get
replacements for the vents (that
include the sensor or a cutout for it)?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Roger Gerl [mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Friday,
September 28, 2001 10:43 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Random Questions (Sessions 3)
>If his car is like most of
ours the vents are broken and will not snap back
>in place --- a search of
the archives should give you more information
>than you care to
read.
Ah, yep ... true :) My car is one of the others who never had a
problem
with them. No reports on that stuff allover Europe ... do we have
"stronger
vents" ???
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 10:56:00
-0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Speed
Bleeders
For those who wanted to know, the 91-93 FWD cars also take 10 x
10mm speedbleeders front and back. not sure about second gen, but i
have a
strong feeling they would be the same as well.
Omar
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 22:03:15
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Random Questions (Sessions 3)
> Ah, yep ... true :) My car is one of
the others who never had a problem
> with them. No reports on that stuff
allover Europe ... do we have
"stronger
> vents" ???
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
Just a thought - maybe you have less temperate
climate...
Oskar
relocated Swede
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 22:11:15
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Caliper noise
I'm just catching up on e-mail, so sorry if this has
already been mentioned.
Summit Racing sells correctly fitting speed bleeders
for all years of our
cars. I know because I have
'em.
Oskar
'95 TT with one-man-bleeders
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, September 26, 2001 9:02 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Caliper
noise
> A note to anyone ordering Speed Bleeders for a second gen
car. The
catalog
> at SpeedBleeder,
www.speedbleeder.com, only lists parts up
to 1993 front
and
> rear. Fortunately, the front calipers have
the same bleed screw.
However,
> the rear caliper bleed screw will not
fit and will leak.
>
> Do not use first gen rear caliper Speed
Bleeder screws in the second gen
> rear caliper.
>
> You can
use first gen front caliper Speed Bleeder screws in the first gen
> front
calipers.
>
> Then again -- maybe I ordered the wrong one but I
don't think they make
the
> parts for us. Sorry, Alex, but congrats on
the first mod. Be careful
> jacking up the car and use jackstands
when working under it.
>
> --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 08:22:09
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Random Questions (Sessions 3)
My web page below has detailed
instructions for replacing the dash
vents and repairing the dash near the
vents. Buy the vents at one of
the discount Mitsu dealers I list on the
Garage Page at my web site.
You can re-use the sensor.
Defroster
vents:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-2-defrgarnish.htmDash
removal:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-2-dashpanel.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ---
"Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
wrote:
> Well mine are broken and I want to replace them. The
passengers
> side vent has a small sensor in it for the Climate
Control.
> Anybody know where to get replacements for the vents (that
include
> the sensor or a cutout for it)?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 11:26:14
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Dyno
tuning: the right way and the wrong way. Also Super-AFC discussion
Last
night I had the pleasure of watching my friend's 95 Talon TSi go in for
a
tuning session on one of the local DynoJets. The purpose was to tune
in
his new Apexi S-AFC. Unfortunately, things did not go as
planned. First, a
little background on the Talon.
1995 Eagle
Talon TSi
TD05-14B turbo
Buschur Upper IC pipe
1G DSM BOV
3"
downpipe with cat-less 3" cat-back
Stock injectors
Walbro high flow
pump
Turbo XS two stage manual boost controller
Getting to the point,
I'd like to discuss two things. First, is the AFC
even necessary on
this car and second, was the tuning method wrong.
The AFC was installed
with the objective of tuning the car in at 16 psi. As
I understand,
15-16 psi is the maximum limit on the stock DSM 450cc
injectors and an AFC
can't really change that. Am I mistaken? The car had
a boost
creep problem (would crawl up to 19 psi) which explains the high
end
hesitation, but again the AFC can't compensate for the lack of fuel at
that
boost because the injectors simply can't flow enough.
Getting to
my second point, I'm left wondering why this "tuner" was
adjusting the AFC
like he was. They did a baseline run when we first got
there (238 hp
/230 tq for anyone who's interested) Next, he gutted out the
MAF sensor
and adjusted the AFC to fix the idle. Peak power FELL to 229 hp
with
very little change in the curve. So it went, change the AFC, do a
peak
power blast. Adjust AFC, reset dyno, repeat. This bring me
to my question.
When adjusting the fuel points at a given RPM, isn't it
better to bring the
car up to the desired RPM point, hold it there, and THEN
adjust the fuel
correction while checking the O2 readings? I would
think that the guesswork
on the AFC followed by a quick 3rd gear power pull
would be a rather
backwards way of doing it. Perhaps I'm wrong?
BTW,
the final result was a peak of 245 hp with some mid range gains.
Anyway,
thanks for reading this far. I'd love to hear everyone's comments
on
this. Even though this is a DSM, I figure the concepts should be
the
same with our cars.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin
Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 10:37:10
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dyno tuning: the right way and the wrong way. Also Su per-AFC
discussion
> 1995 Eagle Talon TSi
> TD05-14B turbo
>
Buschur Upper IC pipe
> 1G DSM BOV
> 3" downpipe with cat-less 3"
cat-back
> Stock injectors
> Walbro high flow pump
> Turbo XS
two stage manual boost controller
Somewhat similar to the setup I had on
my '93 GSX, minus some minor stuff.
> Getting to the point, I'd like
to discuss two things. First,
> is the AFC even necessary on this
car and second, was the
> tuning method wrong.
No, the AFC isn't
going to be able to help since with stock 440cc injectors
on a DSM they are
maxed out most of the time.
> The AFC was installed with the objective
of tuning the car
> in at 16 psi. As I understand, 15-16 psi is the
maximum
> limit on the stock DSM 450cc injectors and an AFC can't
>
really change that. Am I mistaken? The car had a boost
> creep
problem (would crawl up to 19 psi) which explains
> the high end
hesitation, but again the AFC can't compensate
> for the lack of fuel at
that boost because the injectors
> simply can't flow enough.
I ran
18-19 psi on mine. The guy who owns the car now still runs it that
way
on standard premium 92-93 octane pump gas with no problems. I
ported
the turbo and O2 housing to reduce to eliminate boost
creep.
> When adjusting the fuel points at a given RPM, isn't
it
> better to bring the car up to the desired RPM point, hold
> it
there, and THEN adjust the fuel correction while checking
> the O2
readings? I would think that the guesswork on the
> AFC followed by
a quick 3rd gear power pull would be a rather
> backwards way of doing it.
Perhaps I'm wrong?
Its harder on the car to hold it like that, things get
very hot very fast
doing it that way.
It was better on my car to skip
all the injector/fuelcomputer/etc. and just
get a TMO ECU upgrade to
eliminate fuel cut and crank the boost up. Then
you just have to make
sure the A/F ratio stays high enough, and if it
doesn't then reduce
boost. No need to go to an AFC with stock-sized
injectors since you
can't do much with it. (My car ran
13.356@101 set up
that way with about $1000 in
mods - mostly for turbo-back exhaust).
Who is the tuner?
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 08:39:31
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Mitchell Guide for Stealths now available
For those interested, I
have added the Mitchell Collision Estimating
Guide for 1991-1996 Stealths to
my web site (Garage Page). The
Mitchell Guide for 1991-1999 3000GTs is
already there. These guides
have *some* parts listed with diagrams, part
numbers, and list
prices.
Stealths:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/blucius/b-2-mitchell-s.htm3000GTs:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/blucius/b-2-mitchell.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 09:11:57
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why do the TTs' rear camber go out of allignment so e
asily?
Thats toe, his camber was all mucked up.
On Fri, 28 Sep
2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> [Willis, Charles E.] You must
be suspicious of the guy who did the
> alignment. The rear wheels
CANNOT be aligned properly without disconnecting
> the all wheel steering
linkage.
* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *
1993 Celica
AllTrac
USA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 12:24:12
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dyno
tuning: the right way and the wrong way. Also Super-AFC
discussion
>>I ran 18-19 psi on mine. The guy who owns the
car now still runs it that
way on standard premium 92-93 octane pump gas with
no problems. I ported
the turbo and O2 housing to reduce to eliminate
boost creep.
You were able to hold 18-19 on the stock injectors?
Why then are we seeing
the timing get pulled back around 5500 on this
car?
>>Then
you just have to make sure the A/F ratio stays high
enough, and if it
doesn't then reduce boost.
The car is going back
tonight to have the intake checked for leaks. They're
also installing a
custom lower IC pipe since they're questioning the fit of
the stock
one. A friend of mine had a similar creep problem on his mk3
Supra, and
eventually tracked it down to a leaky intercooler joint.
>>No need
to go to an AFC with stock-sized
injectors since you can't do much with
it.
Let's just say that my friend is easily influenced in parting with
his
money. I've tried to talk some sense into him, but he's stubborn
like that.
He's also buying into the shop owners promises of "whooping that
Stealth"
(my car). Needless to say, beating me seems to involve
spending a
significant amount of money at a particular shop and doing very
little
independent research and comparison shopping. :(
>>Who is
the tuner?
Chris at Motown Motorsports and Dynotuning. He used to run a
shop down in
Texas called Xtreme Motorsports. (I don't believe it's any
relation to the
more widely known Extreme Motorsports) I've spent a fair
amount of time at
his shop and come to the conclusion that he's a hack.
I don't normally make
negative claims like this, but he has caused problems
between some prominent
members of the DSM community (This can be verified by
some quick searches of
the DSM mailing lists) and greatly disappointed and
offended many of the
more knowledgeable import owners I know locally. The
bottom line is, use
your own judgment. But this guy will never lay
hands on my car.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 09:46:21
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Way OT, but I will suffer the wrath of Bob anyhow
There has been
some heated discussion whether I am using my PF discount to
bilk, cheat, and
rob fellow members on this list. (substitue other verbs
if you feel
those are too strong..but you get the point)
Lets get a few things
clear.
1) I DO get a good discount from PF on hardware.
2) I do NOT
get even as much as 20% across the board on all items, so I
cannot match on a
part-by-part basis the PF team3s discount if you order
direct with PF.
3)
I feel "good" if I clear $200 for myself in a month with over $4000 in
sales
to support the WWW site/list. This includes team3s, and four
other
lists I particiapate in and pass this along to.
4) Monthly costs for
the services here is about $800/mo. for power &
DSL..and some
depreciation of the $15,000 storage system I bought to house
it all.
I
guess the concept of supporting what you enjoy and participate in is
lost on
the person with whom Ive debated this, and they will be receiving
thier Money
Order back when I receive it, and I feel its only a war of
concepts and
values to do business with them. Its not worth it..I dont do
this to
feed myself..its a hobby, the paperwork sucks..and I have little
time for it,
and the person Ive debated this with doesnt need to feel
abused in any
way. I -want- them to feel happy with thier purchase, and
if thats not
with me..thats ok. Honest! :^)
However, I will -always- do
anything I can for anyone who has a problem
with any vendor I deal with,
whether they purchased from me or not. Im
- -part- of Team3s.Com.
I want everyone here to do good, feel good, and
learn a lot from my
expereiences and everyone elses colletive wisdom
as
well.
So..
Q: Do you have to buy from me to hear my smiling
voice when you have
questions on brakes/etc?
A: No, not at all.
Q:
Should you feel you -have- to use me as a PF contact just because Im
on
Team3s.Com?
A: No, you are free to do whatever you like, whenever,
however. It's your
hard earned money.
This is sooo far off topic
its not even funny, but it -does- affect my
interraction with Team3s.Com
because my "adgenda" in how much I
"overcharge" people has come up with
direct mention of Team3s.Com
members..and admins.
As for my "prices
now 10% lower" part..which I was also questioned on.
Thats sales tax..I no
longer have to charge tax except in CA and MN.
Sorry to have put a bummer
on anyone's day, but I felt I had to let the
group know, as its become a
group issue.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 11:29:55
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why do the TTs' rear camber go out of allignment so e
asily?
Ahhh, but a lot of toe even combined with a little negative camber
will
wear out a tire really quick too... Camber is hell on a tire, toe
is
hell on a tire, but a combination of both... That's the
worst...
- -Cody
(would settle for a lot more camber and less toe
anyday)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Geoff Mohler
Sent: Friday,
September 28, 2001 11:12 AM
To: Willis, Charles E.
Cc: Team3S
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why do the TTs' rear camber go out of allignment so
e
asily?
Thats toe, his camber was all mucked up.
On Fri, 28 Sep
2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> [Willis, Charles E.] You must
be suspicious of the guy who did the
> alignment. The rear wheels
CANNOT be aligned properly without
disconnecting
> the all wheel
steering linkage.
* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *
1993
Celica AllTrac
USA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 09:50:30
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why do the TTs' rear camber go out of allignment so e
asily?
Good point.
On Fri, 28 Sep 2001, cody wrote:
>
Ahhh, but a lot of toe even combined with a little negative camber will
>
wear out a tire really quick too... Camber is hell on a tire, toe
is
> hell on a tire, but a combination of both... That's the
worst...
>
> -Cody
> (would settle for a lot more camber and
less toe anyday)
* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *
1993 Celica
AllTrac
USA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 11:37:22
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Way OT, but I will suffer the wrath of Bob anyhow
Other than
you don't know anything about water injection, I haven't had any
problems
with you and will continue to patronize yer fine establishment. I
haven't
bought anything lately cuz I'm in the middle of buying and selling
a house,
so my racing season is at an end.
Rich
At 09:46 AM 9/28/01 -0700,
Geoff Mohler wrote:
>There has been some heated discussion whether I am
using my PF discount to
>bilk, cheat, and rob fellow members on this
list. (substitue other verbs
>if you feel those are too strong..but
you get the point)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 11:39:01
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Why do the TTs' rear camber go out of allignment so e
asily?
At 11:29 AM 9/28/01 -0500, cody wrote:
>Ahhh, but a lot of
toe even combined with a little negative camber will
>wear out a tire
really quick too... Camber is hell on a tire, toe is
>hell on a
tire, but a combination of both... That's the worst...
>
If you
are referring to a lot of positive toe, and yer cruising at 100+,
don't slam
on the brakes -- the car might swap ends on you. Positive toe is
an old
autocrosser's trick to get the car to oversteer a little,
Rich/old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 09:28:41
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Way OT, but I will suffer the wrath of Bob anyhow
In keeping with the off
topic nature of this thread --- Geoff, you obviously
forgot the credo of the
well intentioned.
"no good deed goes
unpunished"
Jim
Berry
================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
There has been some heated discussion whether I am using my PF discount
to
> bilk, cheat, and rob fellow members on this list. (substitue
other verbs
> if you feel those are too strong..but you get the
point)
>
> Lets get a few things clear.
>
> 1) I DO
get a good discount from PF on hardware.
> 2) I do NOT get even as much as
20% across the board on all items, so I
> cannot match on a part-by-part
basis the PF team3s discount if you order
>
etc etc
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 10:50:03
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Way OT, but I will suffer the wrath of Bob anyhow
Somehow I don't
feel bilked, cheated or robbed.
You've spent a lot of extra time helping me
spec my requirements.
Thanks.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Friday,
September 28, 2001 10:37 AM
To: Geoff Mohler;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Way OT, but I will suffer the wrath of Bob anyhow
Other than you don't
know anything about water injection, I haven't had any
problems with you and
will continue to patronize yer fine establishment. I
haven't bought anything
lately cuz I'm in the middle of buying and selling
a house, so my racing
season is at an end.
Rich
At 09:46 AM 9/28/01 -0700, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>There has been some heated discussion whether I am using my PF
discount to
>bilk, cheat, and rob fellow members on this list.
(substitue other verbs
>if you feel those are too strong..but you get the
point)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 09:38:22
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Dipstick reading
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jason Barnhart
<
phnxgld@erols.com>
> For
it to be absolutely dry on one side I'd say that the oil level is only
>
going that far up the dipstick. It's possible, although highly
unlikely,
> that the dipstick is being cleaned off to the point that it's
dry on just
> that side. I'd bet that on the flip side, there is oil
splattered in the
> dipstick tube that is causing it to be wet on that
side.
I'd second the above statements --- the pictures show no oil
residue on
one side of the dipstick --- in order to wipe it that clean you'd
have to have
a rag in the tube. The oil on the one side is probably being
picked up
on the side of the tube or the block.
you're just going to
have to play around untill you get a test that works.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 13:41:35
-0400
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: Team3S:
value
I am thinking of parting with my 94 Stealth R/T Twin.
Stock
with K&N Filter Charger.
Pearl White.
Very good condition.
Cant
remember mileage but around 70k.
Wondering how much to
ask...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 10:36:53
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
proportioning valve
Anyone have pictures of the firewall with the engine
removed.
I'm trying to see where the proportioning valve is located, I
think it's below the turbos on the firewall but I can't get under
the
front of my car at the moment.
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 12:58:18
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: proportioning valve
> Anyone have pictures of the firewall
with the engine removed.
> I'm trying to see where the proportioning
valve is located, I
> think it's below the turbos on the firewall but I
can't get
> under the front of my car at the moment.
Second
picture here:
http://people.mn.mediaone.net/mjannusch/It's
the kinda reddish-brown colored thing in the middle with all the brake
lines
coming out of it.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 14:41:09
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Active Aero Problems
Hi Guys/Gals, I have a 93 VR4 with the
active aero. The problem I am having
is that every time I shift the wing
flips up then back down (like it's
waving) it will do this every time I shift
and the car is in motion, but if
I work the clutch will stopped it doesn't do
it. Any help would be
appreciated.
Russ F
CT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 12:35:48
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: proportioning valve
http://www.speedtoys.com/%7Egemohler/vr4/teardown/DSCF0440.JPGhttp://www.speedtoys.com/%7Esyzygy/vr4proj/intday2b.jpgOn
Fri, 28 Sep 2001, Jim Berry wrote:
> Anyone have pictures of the
firewall with the engine removed.
> I'm trying to see where the
proportioning valve is located, I
> think it's below the turbos on the
firewall but I can't get under
> the front of my car at the
moment.
>
> Jim Berry
* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just
ask! *
1993 Celica AllTrac
USA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 16:16:53
-0400
From: "Andie W. Lin" <
andiewlin@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Why do the TTs' rear camber go out of alignment so
easily?
Building on this, the NSX has TOE OUT in the front and TOE IN in
the
rear...to keep the rear end tuck-in around turns (Honda felt that
most
people who would buy the car probably didn't know how to drive worth
a
rotten tomato...so they engineered a lot of passive safety into
the
handling.). And yes, the "autox-er's trick" that Rich mentioned is
a good
one...get the car to rotate or steer the rear end around the cones -
easier
to control than a very stiff rear end.
andie w lin
vp
marketing and product r&d
carbotech engineering
http://www.carbotecheng.comtel:
877.899.5024 | fax: 954.493.9669
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 16:30:55
-0400
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <
atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: Team3S: Dyno
tuning: the right way and the wrong way. Also Super-AFC discussion
Hey
guys
I have upgraded the breathing and exhaust of my car together with
550cc
injectors (stock pump and stock turbos 2nd gen @ 15psi)
Due to the
very rich A/F, I got the APEXi AFC and the big project of tune
the car
starts. Here in PR are not AWD dynos so I had to get one of those
"home dyno"
sets that basically just by measuring the firing of the motor
are giving you
torque and power curbs. This is not that accurate in terms of
numbers but you
can see clearly the curbs, so you know what you are doing.
So together with
EGT gauge and BOOST gauge I am trying to tune my car by
my
own!!
Gentlemen is not easy.. To tune the A/F almost lean but not
very lean you
have two different conditions.
A. "Turbo in" running with
more than 60% throttle and
B. "Normal driving" using mostly up to 40%
throttle. Now to the AFC you have
to set two different fuel curbs that will
give you enough fuel co hold the
pressure but not that rich. At that point
you can see the pressure on the
top but you are not getting the max power
possible.
I have notice that after I install the big injectors I have lost
power from
the low RPM. I cant see anymore the emergency brake light to go on
my dash
when I step to the first-second one!
So friends what are your
suggestions for the right way to tune under those
conditions?
Nikos the Greek
92' RT TT 6 Gear
Puerto Rico
> 1995
Eagle Talon TSi
> TD05-14B turbo
> Buschur Upper IC pipe
> 1G
DSM BOV
> 3" downpipe with cat-less 3" cat-back
> Stock
injectors
> Walbro high flow pump
> Turbo XS two stage manual boost
controller
Somewhat similar to the setup I had on my '93 GSX, minus some
minor stuff.
> Getting to the point, I'd like to discuss two
things. First,
> is the AFC even necessary on this car and second,
was the
> tuning method wrong.
No, the AFC isn't going to be able
to help since with stock 440cc injectors
on a DSM they are maxed out most of
the time.
> The AFC was installed with the objective of tuning the
car
> in at 16 psi. As I understand, 15-16 psi is the
maximum
> limit on the stock DSM 450cc injectors and an AFC can't
>
really change that. Am I mistaken? The car had a boost
> creep
problem (would crawl up to 19 psi) which explains
> the high end
hesitation, but again the AFC can't compensate
> for the lack of fuel at
that boost because the injectors
> simply can't flow enough.
I ran
18-19 psi on mine. The guy who owns the car now still runs it that
way
on standard premium 92-93 octane pump gas with no problems. I
ported
the turbo and O2 housing to reduce to eliminate boost
creep.
> When adjusting the fuel points at a given RPM, isn't
it
> better to bring the car up to the desired RPM point, hold
> it
there, and THEN adjust the fuel correction while checking
> the O2
readings? I would think that the guesswork on the
> AFC followed by
a quick 3rd gear power pull would be a rather
> backwards way of doing it.
Perhaps I'm wrong?
Its harder on the car to hold it like that, things get
very hot very fast
doing it that way.
It was better on my car to skip
all the injector/fuelcomputer/etc. and just
get a TMO ECU upgrade to
eliminate fuel cut and crank the boost up. Then
you just have to make
sure the A/F ratio stays high enough, and if it
doesn't then reduce
boost. No need to go to an AFC with stock-sized
injectors since you
can't do much with it. (My car ran
13.356@101 set up
that way with about $1000 in
mods - mostly for turbo-back exhaust).
Who is the tuner?
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 15:35:26
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dyno tuning: the right way and the wrong way. Also Su per-AFC
discussion
> So friends what are your suggestions for the right
way
> to tune under those conditions?
Buy a Technomotive Datalogger
and tune by A/F ratio and injector pulsewidth
watching for knock, and using
EGT to make sure you don't cook the pistons.
http://www.tmo.com/prod/datalog/datalogger.htm-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 16:46:17
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dyno
tuning: the right way and the wrong way. Also Super-AFC discussion
>
So friends what are your suggestions for the right way
> to tune under
those conditions?
I'll add to Matt's suggestion. Look into a
Pocketlogger as well. It runs
on any Palm OS 3.0 or higher device,
costs half of what the TMO logger does,
and doesn't require a bulky expensive
laptop like the TMO. Also, the
Pocketlogger is actually supported with
current updates and patches. For
the $300 you'll spend on the TMO cable
alone, you could buy a PocketLogger
AND a Palm to run it on :)
www.pocketlogger.comJeff
VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 16:47:50
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Way OT, but I will suffer the wrath of Bob anyhow
I hope no
one has taken the humorous jabs I make at Geoff as anything other
than
horseplay. He, like many other players on this list, is doing
everybody
else a big favor with no small effort on his part.
Thanks,
Geoff!
Chuck Willis
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#630
***************************************
