Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, September 24 2001
Volume 01 : Number
624
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
23 Sep 2001 21:44:42 -0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Hesitation problem solved!
So many people ask for help I thought
I would spread some good news instead.
Hesitation problem gone!
It was a combination of 2 problems
1. Timing was at least 10 degree
below O, it is supposed to be 5 +-2 so it was at least 15 degrees off.
2.
Massive vacuum leak cause by y-pipe rubber seal being folded over itself.
Fixed both of these problems today and the car is screaming. I am going
to order a Manual boost controller tomorrow and let it really rip. I
alreayd have aftermarket boost gauge.
What were the symptoms:
The
car has a misfire/hesitation at low RPMS especially first thing in the morning.
after it warmed up it wouldn't hesitate but it just didn't run that strong. I
had just finished a complete engine rebuild so I was breaking the engine in.
Driving very easy I barley noticed the problem. Once I started running hard the
hesitation became a real problem.
How did I mess up this bad?
The
y-pipe was an easy mistake the gasket look perfect from the top. With a
flashlight I noticed I couldn’t see the seal lip on the lower side. Pulled the
y-pipe off and it was folded over itself.
When I tore the engine apart I
decided to prevent this problem by marking the timing so I could put the Crank
Angle Sensor back in the same spot. I figures I would only be a few degree off
that way. What I discover was that the ADVANCED timing was set at 5 degree. When
I grounded the timing terminal to set it to basic timing (Thanks to Jeff Lucius’
WebPages) I noted the timing was way off. I believe that the dealer set the
timing w/o grounding the timing terminal. This was a year before the timing belt
slipped and I started my 1 /12 year 4-bolt main conversion project. I have
having these same issues back then but it wasn’t as bad. A few extra degrees of
timing was all it really took to make the hesitation problem very noticeable.
One other ting I noticed the Crackling in my exhaust is almost
completely gone. The timing was causing that too.
Now I can't have all
good news.
I now get the dreaded SRS light. This time I was unable to reset
it turning the ignition on and off 10 times.
Does anyone have a friend at
a Dealership who can tell us how they reset the SRS light?
It seems
ridiculous to me that we can download error codes with simple tools, we can
data-log the ECU settings using a palm pilot, but we can’t reset a stupid SRS
light.
How did I get the dreaded SRS light?
I was setting my timing
and the factory manual says to ground the ignition timing adjustment terminal
with the car off. I was taking this on and off while the engine was running.
When I was done The SRS light was on.
NO problem I thought I'll turn
the ignition on and off 10 times. It has worked for me before.
Not Today,
Tomorrow I'll call a dealer and see IF I can get them to do it w/o charging me a
hour of labor.
Nomally this would really piss me off but I am so happy
to finally fix my hesitation problem that this is not bothering me
yet...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 08:33:01
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Setting up the brakes.
The reason Rich's car does not dive
when he brakes is because the front end
is significantly lower than the rear
(raked). Stock setup is only 1/2"
higher in the rear. I have been
setting my car up neutral, but am
considering whether I should add 1/2" of
height back in the rear.
Chuck
> I also think it only felt
faster (butt dyno) because my car dives forward
> and yours does
not. We were, however, running nearly the same lap time
>
(or
> at least within half a second or so) so somehow we were getting
around the
> track at the same time.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 08:45:09
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wanted..data!
Geoff, the stock piston diameters are actually
listed in the Service Manual
in the front of the section on Service
Brakes.
Also, does BR mean Brembo? if so which
ones?
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 09:26:24
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: How low of boost pressure is too low?
Why don't you trade
your spyder for an SL and save a bundle of money on car
payments and
comprehensive, since you don't seem to need the turbos?
Sorry to be rude,
but I haven't had my coffee this morning.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Nemisis [SMTP:nemisis@vci.net]
> Sent: Sunday,
September 23, 2001 12:56 PM
> To: Team 3s
> Subject: Team3S: How low
of boost pressure is too low?
>
> Hey again everyone,
>
> Sorry to ask so many questions lately but I'm just trying to learn
about
> my
> new spyder.. so anyway.. I'm trying to save some $$$ on
gas. So.. I was
> thinking of turning my MBC down to like 4-5 PSI.. Would
that damage the
> engine in anyway (since theyre designed for
turbos)?
>
> Thanks,
> Jon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 09:46:37
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: Welcome new track junkie!
Richard Garriott is a current Spyder
owner and former 1st gen VR4 owner who
participated in his first high speed
DE last weekend at Texas World
Speedway. He lives in Austin, TX (Brad
are you listening?). I'm trying to
get him hooked up with all the
appropriate lists and stuff.
Chuck Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 09:34:29
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Dead Stealth lives
A coupla months ago, we found a dead Stealth
TT in the driveway of a local
garage. This is the one that limped home from
Des Moines trailing a cloud
of smoke with no compression in number one
cylinder. Turns out it had a
hole in the piston #1. For those of you who got
involved in the discussion
about the car and how to fix it, here's what
happened: The teenage owner's
dad took it to a local engine rebuilder, who
rebuilt it, and it's back on
the road.
For those of you who are
thinking about putting turbos on a non-turbo
engine, here's what they
found:
>Someone had replaced the engine in the
car with a non-turbo
version which has cast pistons, among other
differences. They then put
the turbos on the engine. This led to the hole
in number 1
piston. The turbo version has forged Clevite pistons, among
other
things.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 16:27:57
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: How low of boost pressure is too low?
This is what I wanted
to ask as I'm interested in getting a Spider to
Europe. But for me only a TT
will do it ;-) I'd definitely sell my Z28
Convertible for a Spider,
hehe.
>Why don't you trade your spyder for an SL and save a bundle of
money on car
>payments and comprehensive, since you don't seem to need the
turbos?
>
>Sorry to be rude, but I haven't had my coffee this
morning.
Don't think this is rude :)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 09:50:21
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dead Stealth lives
> Someone had replaced the engine in
the car with a non-turbo
> version which has cast pistons, among other
differences.
> They then put the turbos on the engine. This led to
the
> hole in number 1 piston. The turbo version has forged
>
Clevite pistons, among other things.
The most apparant difference in the
pistons is in the compression ratio.
They are all cast, unfortunately.
No forged stock pistons.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 11:00:00
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dead
Stealth lives
I think I'm misunderstanding this. Are you implying
that the OEM turbo
engine has forged Clevite pistons? Or that those pistons
were installed when
the motor was rebuilt? I was also unaware that
Clevite even made pistons
(you learn something new every day :) ) I had
thought that Jeff Lucius
determined that all the OEM pistons were cast, and
the only difference
between the NA and TT pistons was the compression
dish. I'd love to find
out that my 4 bolt TT block has forged pistons
to go along with the forged
crank.
As far as installing turbos on an
internally stock NA motor, it has been
done. Altered Atmosphere built
such a car, and it laid down some
impressive dyno numbers and times at
the DSM shootout. It was running
customized TD05-16G turbos and stock
NA (10.0:1 compression) pistons.
However, only time will tell how durable the
car is.
I much prefer a complete TT engine swap. I've been very happy
with mine over
the last 7 months. I can go into details if there's
enough interest.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Merritt
Sent: Monday,
September 24, 2001 10:34 AM
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Dead Stealth lives
A coupla months ago, we found a dead Stealth
TT in the driveway of a local
garage. This is the one that limped home from
Des Moines trailing a cloud
of smoke with no compression in number one
cylinder. Turns out it had a
hole in the piston #1. For those of you who got
involved in the discussion
about the car and how to fix it, here's what
happened: The teenage owner's
dad took it to a local engine rebuilder, who
rebuilt it, and it's back on
the road.
For those of you who are
thinking about putting turbos on a non-turbo
engine, here's what they
found:
>Someone had replaced the engine in the
car with a non-turbo
version which has cast pistons, among other
differences. They then put
the turbos on the engine. This led to the hole
in number 1
piston. The turbo version has forged Clevite pistons, among
other
things.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 10:02:29
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dead Stealth lives
At 11:00 AM 9/24/01 -0400, Jeff VanOrsdal
wrote:
>I think I'm misunderstanding this. Are you implying that the
OEM turbo
>engine has forged Clevite pistons?
I'm just passing
along what the owner was told by the rebuilder and the
shop that did the
engine swap. Apparently, the engine has Clevite pistons
NOW.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 08:13:50
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dead Stealth lives
The TT/VR4 pistons are the same for all
years (or so claims CAPS).
(So are the rods for that matter.) They are all
cast pistons. Forged
pistons are the desired replacement when exceeding
factory boost and
fuel settings. I list all the manufacturers of forged
pistons for our
cars on my piston upgrade guide web page below. I wasn't
aware that
Clevite made pistons for our engines. They do make nice rod and
main
bearings for us.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-pistonguide.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
To: "Team3s Tech List"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, September 24, 2001 9:00 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dead Stealth
lives
I think I'm misunderstanding this. Are you implying that the
OEM
turbo engine has forged Clevite pistons? Or that those pistons
were
installed when the motor was rebuilt? I was also unaware
that
Clevite even made pistons (you learn something new every day :) )
I
had thought that Jeff Lucius determined that all the OEM pistons
were
cast, and the only difference between the NA and TT pistons was
the
compression dish. I'd love to find out that my 4 bolt TT block
has
forged pistons to go along with the forged crank.
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 09:15:51
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: 3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: Wanted..data!
Big Red = BR, but I got the
#s.
On Mon, 24 Sep 2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> Geoff, the
stock piston diameters are actually listed in the Service Manual
> in the
front of the section on Service Brakes.
>
> Also, does BR mean
Brembo? if so which ones?
>
> Chuck
* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 12:29:05
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dead Stealth lives
I would bet a hundred dollars that that
bottom end (short block) they
put in there (the NA version) was the 10:1
compression ratio, and at
that compression ratio, even trying to run factory
VR-4/TT boost is very
deadly... thus the cause of the hole in the
piston... Not the type of
rod/piston...
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Merritt
Sent: Monday,
September 24, 2001 10:02 AM
To:
jeffv@1nce.com; Team3s Tech List
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dead Stealth lives
At 11:00 AM 9/24/01 -0400, Jeff VanOrsdal
wrote:
>I think I'm misunderstanding this. Are you implying that the
OEM turbo
>engine has forged Clevite pistons?
I'm just passing
along what the owner was told by the rebuilder and the
shop that did the
engine swap. Apparently, the engine has Clevite
pistons NOW.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 11:06:39
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sears Point track day this weekend
This coming
weekend.
Schedule and other info can be found here:
http://www.nasaproracing.com/typ_html_nav.asp?ObjectID=6128Hope
to see ya!
We'll be with the MR-S, RX7-TT, Jeep, and trailer all easily
identified
here:
http://www.speedtoys.com/members.htmlSpectating
is -free-, rides are -free-, bring a helmet..but we have one
loaner as
well.
Email privately if you have Qs.
* Porterfield Brake
Wholesaler..just ask! *
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 16:47:36
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: plage..,uh, er, STOLEN tuning chart
http://www.speedtoys.com/~cewillis/underoversteer.xls***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 15:23:42
-0500
From: "Nemisis" <
nemisis@vci.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
How low of boost pressure is too low?
I dont know what started the
hostility.. I DO use the turbos.. it's just
that on a regular day..
with gas up as high as it is.. I can't be getting
less than 15mpg. I
don't see whats so wrong with wanting to save money..
and just turn it up
when you need performance.
Jon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 16:54:37
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: How low of boost pressure is too low?
> I dont know
what started the hostility.. I DO use the
> turbos.. it's just that
on a regular day.. with gas up as
> high as it is.. I can't be getting
less than 15mpg. I don't
> see whats so wrong with wanting to save
money.. and just turn
> it up when you need performance.
Just
turning down the boost won't get you that much better gas mileage.
It's
controlled to a much greater extent by how much you push your
foot
down. Whenever the car is at "high load" then it'll inject much
more fuel
than if it is at a light load. Just accelerate slower and use
the cruise
control whenever possible. In heavy traffic leave more room
between you and
the car ahead so you can coast instead of
start/stopping. Move the gas
pedal as little as possible, and when you
do move it move it slowly. Quick
changes in throttle position use more
gas as well.
...and since you have a Spyder, having the top down costs
about 3-4 MPG due
to the additional wind resistance.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 16:38:39
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
(snip) STOLEN handling chart
Oh! You mean the handling chart that's
on our website...
www.Team3S.com/FAQhandling-guide.htmWe
stole it first (from BF Goodrich at Tire Rack).
:-)
Best,
Forrest
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Sent:
Monday, September 24, 2001 2:47 PM
Subject: 3S-Racers: plage..,uh, er, STOLEN
tuning chart
>
http://www.speedtoys.com/~cewillis/underoversteer.xls***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 17:06:15
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel Pressure Regulator
Finally getting around to tracking this
down...
When going through the various pieces of paperwork I received
when buying my
VR-4 this spring (I'm the 3rd owner), the original owner
indicated that he
installed a "Hennessey Fuel Pressure Regulator" on the car
in 1996. I
actually found him on the internet and this was his
response:
- ------------
The Hennessey FPR was part of a cheater boost
enhancer that included a bleeder hose across the wastegate signal and
the FPR. The FPR looks stock -- I did an OK job on it huh??
Hennessey
never provided details of the FPR -- but I always assumed it
allowed greater
fuel pressure.
- ------------
I get the part about a bleeder hose
across the wastegate signal (cheap MBC),
but why on earth would you put a
bleeder hose on the FPR signal????
Wouldn't that decrease the resultant fuel
pressure when boost is present and
make it run lean?
Anyways,
there is no bleeder hose on the FPR vacuum line as of now (or since
I bought
it). The FPR "looks" stock, but I wanted to check for
sure.
Fortunately, there's a Mitsubishi part number on the label:
MD158457. I
looked up some stuff in CAPS, and here's what I
found:
VR-4 (any year):
MD164615
MD322989
NA DOHC (any year
except 98 w/o sunroof):
MD158457
MD322989
NA SOHC, '98 w/o
sunroof:
MD343153
Anyone know the differences between those Fuel
Pressure Regulators? I'm a
little concerned that mine seems to be a
part for the NA cars. However,
since the DOHC NA and TT cars share the
MD322989 part number, does that mean
that the FPR is the same? That's
what I'd think based on CAPS. It looks
like MD164615, MD158457, and
MD322989 are all interchangeable. Am I
borrowing Darren's crackpipe a
little too often?
If that is a "Hennessey FPR," I wonder what they did
to it. I
don't have a A/F ratio gauge (yet), but based on gas mileage
(16-17mpg) and
the carbon on my tailpipes, I think my car may be running a
little on the
rich side.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with Mystery FPR.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 21:00:15
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: How low of boost pressure is too low?
Don't forget about the
most important fact of all ... with the top down you
will have to stop and
start even MORE in city traffic and slow spots because
everyone will want to
ask you what it is, what it is like, and tell you how
much they love
it.
=)
- --Flash!
Non-spyder 1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2001 5:55
PM
...and since you have a Spyder, having the top down costs about 3-4
MPG due
to the additional wind resistance.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 21:01:55
-0400
From: GREG RUSH <
rush@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Shifter pops out of 4th gear: 1994 3000gt SL
Check the radiator hose that
runs near the tranny its under the Y pipe.
Somtimes the hose will get smashed
and pushes back on the linkage.
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
wrote:
> > is it probably just worn bearings (synchros?), something
that I can't fix
> by
> > removing the shifter
boot?
>
> You might try removing the shift boot and tightening the
linkage. This has
> helped many people fix their reverse gear.
You'll understand which linkage
> when you take off the boot and move the
stick around a little. Good luck,
>
> -Paul - 3Si1127
>
Corbeau Race Seat Retailer
> 1992 Green
RT/TT
> K&N FIPK & Re-gapped
plugs(0.034")
> Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors,
R-4S Pads, & SS lines
> Greddy Profec Boost
Controller @ .9 Bar
> Custom 3" Exhaust
>
www.DiabloCarAudio.com,
www.DiabloEnterprises.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 21:32:59
-0700
From: Rick <
melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Shifter pops out of 4th gear: 1994 3000gt SL
I would really
check the 5th gear nut.Had it happen on my Base and R/T,saved the
R/T, but
busted a soft ball hole it the end cover and trans on the base.Worth
the
trouble to check!,not hard.But thats the way it started on both
cars.
RICK
GREG RUSH wrote:
> Check the radiator hose that
runs near the tranny its under the Y pipe.
> Somtimes the hose will get
smashed and pushes back on the linkage.
>
>
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
wrote:
>
> > > is it probably just worn bearings (synchros?),
something that I can't fix
> > by
> > > removing the
shifter boot?
> >
> > You might try removing the shift boot
and tightening the linkage. This has
> > helped many people fix
their reverse gear. You'll understand which linkage
> > when you
take off the boot and move the stick around a little. Good luck,
>
>
> > -Paul - 3Si1127
> > Corbeau Race Seat
Retailer
> > 1992 Green RT/TT
> >
K&N FIPK & Re-gapped plugs(0.034")
> >
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads, & SS lines
>
> Greddy Profec Boost Controller @ .9 Bar
>
> Custom 3" Exhaust
> >
www.DiabloCarAudio.com,
www.DiabloEnterprises.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 21:43:23
-0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: How low of boost pressure is too low?
Maybe it's me but I don't get
this post either. Driver X has a car that is
5-6 years old and still
sells in the $30,000 range, he only getting 15 MPG.
The difference between 15
and 20 MPG based upon a 20 gallon fill up is 100
miles. At 15 MPG is
6.6666.... gallons at $2.00 a gallon given driver X
fills up once a week the
difference in gas mileage equals $1.90 a day.
Hummm, I think Geo Metro has a
rage top and gets good mileage. Of course
better if you leave the top
up on it too.
Drive it like you stole it, but then you won't get the
looks and questions
Dave Best
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, September 24, 2001 9:00 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: How low of boost
pressure is too low?
> Don't forget about the most important fact of
all ... with the top down
you
> will have to stop and start even MORE
in city traffic and slow spots
because
> everyone will want to ask you
what it is, what it is like, and tell you
how
> much they love
it.
>
> =)
>
> --Flash!
> Non-spyder 1995
VR-4
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch,
Matt
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2001 5:55 PM
>
> ...and
since you have a Spyder, having the top down costs about 3-4 MPG
due
>
to the additional wind resistance.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 21:05:37
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: How low of boost pressure is too low?
> Maybe it's me
but I don't get this post either. Driver X has
> a car that is 5-6
years old and still sells in the $30,000
> range, he only getting 15 MPG.
The difference between 15 and
> 20 MPG based upon a 20 gallon fill up is
100 miles. At 15
> MPG is 6.6666.... gallons at $2.00 a gallon
given driver X
> fills up once a week the difference in gas mileage
equals
> $1.90 a day. Hummm, I think Geo Metro has a rage top and gets
> good mileage. Of course better if you leave the top up on it
too.
I certainly drive my Spyder like I stole it, and with the top down
any time
it isn't parked... It's the best of all worlds. It
certainly has held its
own against lots of other cars I've come across at
stoplights. I figure if
I decided I could afford a Spyder VR4 then I
can probably afford the gas, so
I push the car hard whenever I get the
chance. :-) The car is really a lot
happier that way.
>
Drive it like you stole it, but then you won't get the looks
> and
questions
The looks and questions actually get old after a while. I
now prefer it
when they are looking at it from a good distance behind
me. ;-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 23:48:35
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear SS brake line kit F/S
I have a set of rear SS lines for any
3/S car available for $80+ship.
Any takers? Sitting here at the
house ready for an envelope.
* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask!
*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#624
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