Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, September 23 2001
Volume 01 : Number
623
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 22 Sep 2001 19:44:35 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Setting up the brakes.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Darren
Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>
>
> Both times the ABS did not kick in. The first time was the only
one where any of the tires "chirped" about halfway through
If you say
that one more time I'm going to take your damn keyboard away --- the ABS
did
kick in you just don't recognize it.
Next time take the fuse out
like I said and you'll know what I'm talking
about.
Jim
Berry
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 22:06:29
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spark Plugs
> At $0.99 I would be a little worried.
It is another one of those
> things on these cars that when you calculate
it you are spending,
> approximately, $75 for plugs every 60,000 miles
(3-5 years for
> most of us) or $15-25 a year. Some things I don't
mind spending
> a little more on for that "peace of mind." Just like
the 94
> octane gas compared to 91. A few cents doesn't matter in
the
> long run and the car stays happy. Run those $1.00 special
ones
> if you want but I think sometimes you get what you pay
for.
I'm assuming that you are talking about my use of the cheap copper
NGK's
instead of the platinum plugs. The reason for switching to copper
wasn't at
all because they are less expensive, but to get a choice of colder
heat
ranges and better conductivity.
These cars already have weak
spark for those of us who try to get more power
out of the motor, so
switching to copper might get a bit better performance
and allow more boost
before detonation/preignition. The general rule for
plug heat ranges is
to go a range colder for each increase of 75-100 HP
(from NGK's own tech
folks) so I need to go at least two ranges colder at
least for my engine
setup. The platinum plugs don't allow me to do that, so
the coppers
were the easy choice.
> You get to change them every year so that is
not a problem.
> I think the majority of us (me included) don't like
having
> to dig at the rear plugs each summer.
Its an hour job once
a year. How much time do you spend swapping brake pads
and rotors in a
year? We all have different opinions on what are worthwhile
mods and
maintenance on our respective cars. I doubt the majority of us
are
interested in bigger brakes, but those conversations can still be
beneficial
to all when they are technically related.
I personally feel
that all the plugs should be inspected at an absolute
minimum once a year to
see what sort of condition the rings/pistons are in
and check compression of
all cylinders to catch potential problems before
they become more
serious. You may feel differently. I check at least the
front
bank once a month, all plugs each season (spring, summer, fall).
For
those of you actually interested in this, the NGK part numbers for the
proper
NGK copper plugs are BCPR7ES-8 for one range colder, BCPR8ES-8 for
two ranges
colder, and so on. I'd start one range colder and examine the
plugs
after a few hard runs and read the insulator colors to see where you
are
at.
If you can't find ones that end in -8, you can get any number (-11
are
easier to find). The last number specifies the factory-set
gap. -8 is
.032", -9 is .036", -10 is .040", -11 is .044".
Hope
that helps someone....
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 19:48:04
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Intercooler fans.
Sorry, your equations only apply to compressable
gasses not liquids --- try
again.
Jim
Berry
=======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Darren Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>
> I don't
have an oil temp only an oil pressure but since PV=nRT then as the Pressure (P)
rises that means the Temperature (T) has
> to rise to make both sides of
the equation equal. Unless, Temperature (T) rises and (nR) drops or
Pressure (P) rises and Volume
> (V) drops. I don't think the volume
in a closed system can change since it all remains a liquid. Therefore I
ass-u-me that the
> oil temp is not too far off the oil press measurements
(meaning if oil press hovers around midway then oil temp is probably
near
> stable and if oil press starts to rise then the temp will also but
this stops around the third tick on the stock oil press gauge
> and never
goes higher
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 22:08:01
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DSM 450cc injectors
> Hey everyone, need some help. Will
the DSM 450cc injectors
> fit right in our cars with no modification
(besides the
> fuel controller), I mean do they fit the stock
injector
> location correctly? Also, what boost can you run with
>
these safely? I figure if you can get 14 PSI to 14.5 PSI
> safely in most
cases on stock everything else, what should
> you be able to get with the
450's? And how much should I
> expect to pay for them?
Thanks!
They'll fit without modification and will work fine. They
should supply
sufficient fuel for stock turbos at pretty much any boost you
can get out of
them if you are able to suppress detonation.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 22:19:36
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Intercooler fans.
> I don't have an oil temp only an oil
pressure but
> since PV=nRT then as the Pressure (P) rises that
means
> the Temperature (T) has to rise to make both sides of
> the
equation equal. Unless, Temperature (T) rises
> and (nR) drops or
Pressure (P) rises and Volume (V)
> drops. I don't think the volume
in a closed system
> can change since it all remains a liquid.
Therefore
> I ass-u-me that the oil temp is not too far off the
>
oil press measurements (meaning if oil press hovers
> around midway then
oil temp is probably near
> stable and if oil press starts to rise then
the temp
> will also but this stops around the third tick on the
>
stock oil press gauge and never goes higher).
Time to put the crackpipe
away...
The Ideal Gas Law (PV=nRT) applies to gasses, not
fluids.
The oil system isn't a closed system, either - there are many
places that
oil can leave the journals to return to the oilpan.
Temperature is going to
be completely dependent on how hot the engine
internals get - the heat from
trying to pressurize the oil is negligible
compared to it contacting the hot
engine components on its way back to the
oilpan.
There's also the factor where the oil "cooler" is mounted right
behind the
driver's side intercooler, so if you are hard on the boost most of
the time
then the cooler will be less efficient, particularly in higher
ambient
temps.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 23:23:22
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Spark Plugs
Gee-zus Matt. Why are we always butting
heads?
I don't think the original post said you used $0.99 ones because
you had to
go to a colder heat range and I am too ignorant to know that
Copper is for
this instead of Platinum. Sorry.
I just have not
been able to do the rear ones in under an hour so that is
why it takes me
longer. In fact, all the guys I know who do this takes them
longer I
think. Maybe we should take the cars to you to do the rear
bank.
Grin.
Changing the front pads takes about 10 minutes (the Big
Reds are a dream to
work on) and the rotor takes about an additional 5
minutes per side. I was
paid by a friend to do exactly that on his
Ferrari and 1992 VR-4 so I got
lots of practice over the summer doing it
perhaps a hundred times on just
his cars not including my three track
events. Maybe you should bring your
car to me for brake work.
Grin.
Thanks for clarifying that yours are for a colder range. I am
not yet going
for power so I can stick with the stock plugs.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch,
Matt
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 11:06 PM
I'm assuming that you
are talking about my use of the cheap copper NGK's
instead of the platinum
plugs. The reason for switching to copper wasn't at
all because they
are less expensive, but to get a choice of colder heat
ranges and better
conductivity.
Its an hour job once a year. How much time do you
spend swapping brake pads
and rotors in a year? We all have different
opinions on what are worthwhile
mods and maintenance on our respective
cars. I doubt the majority of us are
interested in bigger brakes, but
those conversations can still be beneficial
to all when they are technically
related.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 23:28:42
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Intercooler fans.
Yes I realized that after it was sent. I
couldn't think of what n*R was
until I determined it wasn't liquid it was gas
(Boyle's Law or Charles' Law
I think).
HOWEVER, if I could find the
right liquid equation all things must be equal.
If temp rises then pressure
rises (if I boil water then it gets a higher
pressure) and if the temp cools
then pressure drops until a certain point
when freezing water actually
increases in volume but that is for another
discussion since oil is not water
(hey I got one right).
But isn't the oil system, in general, a closed
system? It hits everything
from the oil pan to the engine block to the
oil cooler to the turbos and
back again. Sure it might suck some up
from the oil pan but it is still
closed. I don't think the oil line
leading to the oil cooler is being
measured. I think it is plumbed in
near to the oil pan but since all I have
is a pressure gauge then I can't
comment much on pressure or temp before and
after an oil cooler.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
Sent:
Saturday, September 22, 2001 11:20 PM
The Ideal Gas Law (PV=nRT) applies
to gasses, not fluids.
The oil system isn't a closed system, either -
there are many places that
oil can leave the journals to return to the
oilpan. Temperature is going to
be completely dependent on how hot the
engine internals get - the heat from
trying to pressurize the oil is
negligible compared to it contacting the hot
engine components on its way
back to the oilpan.
There's also the factor where the oil "cooler" is
mounted right behind the
driver's side intercooler, so if you are hard on the
boost most of the time
then the cooler will be less efficient, particularly
in higher ambient
temps.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 23:36:04
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Setting up the brakes.
Okay ... ABS as most of us know it is the
feel of the brake pedal thumping
away and pulsing your foot. Really
easy on snow- or gravel-covered roads.
Heck, it is even audible as the flaps
are going open-close-open-close a
bunch of times per second. On dry
pavement I get neither the pulsing pedal
nor the audible sounds. If
that is ABS then thanks. If it was not then I
need to apply the brakes
a little more next time. Maybe I'll try again and
see what
happens.
You know the chirping COULD have been from when the tire was
skidding on the
road from gravel or water or something. How can you be
sure it was the ABS?
It was like I was a kid in his dad's car who hit the
brakes and makes a
skidmark except it was just for a short time.
I'm
still not sure I see the point of taking out the ABS fuse if I don't
race
with it out. Why should I practice something that is not going to
be
that way on game day? If I am hitting the brakes as Chuck Willis
wants me
to without the ABS fuse then I will be locking up the wheels each
time.
Down in Texas they teach you to hit the brakes real hard and then ease
off
them whereas up here they teach you to apply it harder and harder the
closer
you get to the corner. If I practice with the ABS then I start
practicing
hitting them harder and harder until the wheels start chirping
from some
magical thing called ABS. Then I will get the feel of how
hard and how fast
to hit the brakes. Maybe you are suggesting just
taking it out for a
comparison test to see how well/how bad the ABS
helps/hurts.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim
Berry [mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 10:45
PM
>
> Both times the ABS did not kick in. The first time
was the only one where
any of the tires "chirped" about halfway
through
If you say that one more time I'm going to take your damn
keyboard away ---
the ABS did
kick in you just don't recognize
it.
Next time take the fuse out like I said and you'll know what I'm
talking
about.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 22:58:41
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: DSM 450cc injectors/Intercooler fans
Yep! I could run
15-16psi all day, no problem with the AFC and DSM
injectors. A supra fuel
pump would be a nice upgrade btw, just to be
on the safe side, but with stock
turbo's... should be no problem. They
are a direct replacement, but after
seeing a set of 95-99 injectors, I
might recommend THEM instead, since they
have a similar nozzle design
(split between the 2 intake ports). The stock
ones have a similar
"nozzle", while 1g DSM ones only have one spray pattern.
In the end,
both/either will work just fine though.
Darren, "I don't
have an oil temp only an oil pressure but since
PV=nRT then as the Pressure
(P) rises ", that is the "IDEAL GAS LAW",
oil never turns into a gas in the
engine, unless you have major
problems :). Cooler oil is always better (to a
point), and 230cfm is
not really enough to cool much air in the IC's, so I
would go with
Roger's suggestion. Always use synthetic btw :)
Vinny
Singh -
I would like to send my condolences for the tragedies in NYC
and
Washington, if any of your family and friends suffered anything
in
these horrific crimes.
www.manualcd.com - Backup Service Manuals on
CD for your 3/S!
>RE: Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 19:05:59
-0700
>From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
>Subject:
Team3S: DSM 450cc injectors
>
Hey everyone, need some help. Will the
DSM 450cc injectors fit right
in
our cars with no modification (besides
the fuel controller), I mean do
they fit the stock injector location
correctly? Also, what boost can
you
run with these safely? I figure if you
can get 14 PSI to 14.5 PSI
safely
in most cases on stock everything else,
what should you be able to get
with the 450's? And how much should I expect
to pay for them? Thanks!
>
>Matt Nelson
>1994 RT
TT
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 20:34:17
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Setting up the brakes.
Because I'm trying to get you to quit saying the
ABS didn't come on --- it is coming on
you're just not recognizing it --- at
high speeds you do NOT get the pulsing feeling that
you do a low speeds [ I
have no idea why].
the point of taking the fuse out is so you'll see the
difference in operation between ABS
and no ABS --- and then I won't have to
say this again :-)
If I have to write this again I'll come to the
east coast and beat you with a
stick.
Jim
Berry
===========================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Darren Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>
> Okay
... ABS as most of us know it is the feel of the brake pedal thumping
>
away and pulsing your foot. On dry pavement I get neither the
pulsing pedal
> nor the audible sounds. If that is ABS then
thanks. If it was not then I
> need to apply the brakes a little
more next time>
> I'm still not sure I see the point of taking out
the ABS fuse if I don't
> race with it out.
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 20:42:31
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Intercooler fans.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Darren
Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>
>
>
HOWEVER, if I could find the right liquid equation all things must be
equal.
> If temp rises then pressure rises (if I boil water then it gets a
higher
> pressure)
only because the water is turned to steam -- a
gas.
>and if the temp cools then pressure drops until a certain
point
> when freezing water actually increases in volume
Frozen
water is kind of a unique case --- it is one of the few, if not only, liquids
that expands
when frozen, as I recall it has to do with the air dissolved in
the liquid.
> But isn't the oil system, in general, a closed
system?
Not in a scientific sense --- there are air vents,
combustion gasses, water vapor etc.etc.
A closed system is like a sealed can
--- nothing in or out, it's sealed.
Jim Berry
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 23:14:26
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spark Plugs
> I just have not been able to do the rear
ones in under an
> hour so that is why it takes me longer. In fact,
all the
> guys I know who do this takes them longer I think.
Maybe
> we should take the cars to you to do the rear bank.
>
Grin.
I'd be happy to do it, but I think we live something like a
thousand miles
away from each other, so it might not be worth it to
you. ;-) Next time I
do it I'll take pictures and stuff and make
note of everything I do. I'm
pretty sure I do it similar to what Jeff's
got on his website. The order of
things might be a little different,
but not significantly so. Its mostly a
matter of just getting used to
the procedure more than anything else.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 21:48:03
-0700
From: "Darc" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Intercooler fans.
Flash;
Think of the reading on oil pressure
gauge at idle, 3 minutes after you cold
start your car and let is run.
Now think of the same gauge at idle after
you pull in from running your car
hard on the track for an hour. The oil
pressure at idle is approximately the
same in both cases, but the
temperature of the oil at those two different
times is not approximately the
same. Forget the
equations.
Best
Darc
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 00:55:01
-0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Leaded race fuel
I've done a little research on octane boosters
and so far I've found most do
nothing. The one exception I have found
so far is VP Octane Boost (which I
buy at Autozone for $10/bottle).
It's the only one that NOTICIBLY made a
difference on my Eclipse (monitoring
knock with TMO datalogger) and it's
curiously the only one that says on the
bottle that prolonged usage may
damage o2 sensors and catalytic
converters.
Curiously enough, I blew my motor because of the octane
boost. At the
Shootout this year I had a bottle of this stuff in, so I
went and retuned
the car for the modified fuel and spraying some
alcohol. Well, on the way
back home, I knew we'd do a few high speed
runs so I turned the boost down
from 21-22psi to 13psi or so, so it was
fine.
Well, get back to Dallas and two or three days later I decide to go
for a
drive and turn the boost back up. BUT! I forgot to retune
the car for
regular fuel AND I forgot to turn my alcohol on!!!!
Oh
well..expensive mistake, but I'll never make this one again. Next
one
I'm trying is the NOS brand "street" octane boost ($6 at Pep Boys,
blue
container)
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'01 Chevrolet
Silverado HD Duramax
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Curtis
McConnel" <CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
To: "'Jannusch,
Matt'" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>;
<Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, September 20, 2001 4:27 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Leaded race
fuel
> What are the better brands to run? I would much rather run this
stuff than
> $4.00 a gallon 102 octane. When it says adds 5 points, is
that one bottle
to
> a full tank of gas and now your tank is 5 points
higher? (91 + 5 = 96)In
> this case should I run 2 bottles to reach
101?
>
> Curtis
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 01:57:16
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Intercooler fans.
Ahhhh good point, Darc. Wait, you mean
the needle on the oil pressure gauge
is supposed to be around normal when
exiting the track? Just kidding. It
does.
Getting back to
the topic (if people aren't auto-deleting these by now) ...
I seem to recall
Lucius wanting to do temp measurements before and after the
intercooler or
oil cooler. Did this ever get accomplished? Did it
tell
anything?
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Darc [mailto:wce@telus.net]
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2001 12:48
AM
Flash;
Think of the reading on oil pressure gauge at idle, 3
minutes after you cold
start your car and let is run. Now think of the
same gauge at idle after
you pull in from running your car hard on the track
for an hour. The oil
pressure at idle is approximately the same in both
cases, but the
temperature of the oil at those two different times is not
approximately the
same. Forget the equations.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 01:02:20
-0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Pass Emissions with a Test Pipe? WAS: Gutting pre-cat &
cat
Interestingly enough, I have 2 cars that passed with no cats 2
different
years:
2000
1990 GSX (550cc inj, AFC, hacked MAS, no
cats)
Passed with flying colors
1995 Spyder VR-4 (rear precat only,
720cc injectors, VPC w/wrong chip)
BARELY passed, but still passed. car
could barely idle with the wrong VPC
chip and it STILL passed after we got it
to hold RPM steady and not surge
-
--------------------
2001
1990 GSX (no cats, stock injectors, stock
MAS)
had to idle the car up a little bit to pass idle test
1995 Spyder
VR-4 (rear precat only, 720cc injectors, VPC w/right chip)
Passed with flying
colors
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'01 Chevrolet Silverado HD
Duramax
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
To: <DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com>; "Team3S"
<team3s@mail.speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Friday, September 21, 2001 6:43 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Pass Emissions with a
Test Pipe? WAS: Gutting pre-cat &
cat
> I would almost bet
that with correct tuning, or a ~perfectly~ performing
> engine, this may
be the case. Of course, many factors contribute to
>
this...
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 02:11:46
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Team3S: VR4/TT tranny rebuilds
fyi.. the following shop emailed me
after finding my webpages
regarding my transfer case failure..
http://www.humbleperformance.com/
specifically:
http://www.humbleperformance.com/services.html#tranny
there's
not much on this page other than that they can do the
rebuilds. The
address and number they have listed is
Humble Performance
305 North
Redbud Ave. #5
Broken Arrow, Ok 74012
(918) 251-0469
Aniel appears
to be the guy for Mitsu stuff.
don't bother asking me anything further,
as I'm not afiliated
and have no info other than this. just thought
someone might
want to check into them as another source for
parts/rebuilds.
hope this helps
someone..
Dave
=======================
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
=
87 Mica Red GTI G60 = http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 13:29:09
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intercooler fans.
> Not sure the oil cooler needs
it. When I am on a road course at full
boost for 20 minutes (or as much
boost as one lap can
> handle) the water temp creeps up toward red not the
oil temp. I think the
water needs cooled better than the
oil.
The water temp never moves in my car even in hot days driving at
280km/h on
the Autobahn or on a rally course with only going to third in one
straight.
Water Wetter does the trick too !
Due to the gauge in Luis
Miguels car from Spain, the oil temp is climbing
way above the 100°C when
idling. Especially after a heavy test-drive the oil
is getting even hotter
during the "cool down" phase when the ambient is
around 28°C or above and
therefore even after a minute or so when the TT
switches off the oil is still
very hot in the turbos. Therefore such a fan
on the oilcooler makes sense to
me and may help to cool the oil down.
> Someone let me know who has an
oil temperature on a road racing car and
I'll gladly change my
thinking. Also, I think the oil has
> a higher boiling temp than the
antifreeze/water combination or at least it
does not degrade until a higher
temp. Anyone care to
> clarify this?
Antifreeze and oil have
indeed a higher boiling temp than water. For
roadracing, I'd have my car full
of gauges !!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 12:17:38
EDT
From: DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: CD Changer Compatibility
> I believe Crutchfield does a good
job of listing cars and components however
> I have never seen the
VR-4 or TT (or any Stealth or 3000GT for that matter)
> in their
catalog.
Last I checked, I believe they had our cars listed if you
tried the search
online. I'm guessing they cut down the printed list
to save on printing
costs?
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 12:38:00
EDT
From: DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Racing Seats
> It is also important to measure yourself and
the seat to make sure it fits
> correctly, has the right recline angle,
does it
> recline, is it allowed to recline, does it have removable
pads, etc. Get
to
> a place and see if you can get some seat
time in the
> race seats. They are so comfy you won't like
anything else.
Comfort is very important, but not all that many full
racing seats are very
well ergonomically designed. Weekend racing
seats usually cut it well for
most of the people on this list looking to do
some racing and they're usually
comfortable enough for a weekend
driver.
Keep in mind race seats are not only good for racing.
They are often a
cheaper replacement to stock seats as well. If anyone
is looking for
replacement seats that are much lighter, Corbeau offers a
seat called the GTS
II. I've sold a few to 3/S people and they're very
happy with them. There
are many luxury features put into racing seats
nowadays. You can get
inflatable lumbar support, leather, wide
versions, custom brackets for your
particular car, even custom colors to
match your interior or paintjob. Bear
in mind that these often come at
a price, but they can make a long drive much
more comfortable or show car
much brighter.
I give a good price to anyone who's a list member so if you're
interested in
Corbeau seats, email me privately, we can talk about the
available seats.
- -Paul - 3Si1127
Corbeau Race Seat
Retailer
1992 Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK & Re-gapped
plugs(0.034")
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads,
& SS lines
Greddy Profec Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com, www.DiabloEnterprises.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 10:02:38
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DSM 450cc injectors
With supreme (not race gas) what PSI
could I go to before detonation
becomes a problem? I was hoping for 18 PSI
(where the turbos can make it
:) but I am not familiar of when detonation
becomes a concern. What
methods besides $5+/gallon race gas or a $500 alcohol
injection kit will
suppress detonation? Copper plugs?
Matt
Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem
OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com
-
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jannusch, Matt
Sent:
Saturday, September 22, 2001 8:08 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
RE: Team3S: DSM 450cc injectors
> Hey everyone, need some help.
Will the DSM 450cc injectors fit right
> in our cars with no modification
(besides the fuel controller), I mean
> do they fit the stock injector
location correctly? Also, what boost
> can you run with these safely? I
figure if you can get 14 PSI to 14.5
> PSI safely in most cases on stock
everything else, what should
> you be able to get with the 450's? And how
much should I
> expect to pay for them? Thanks!
They'll fit without
modification and will work fine. They should supply
sufficient fuel for
stock turbos at pretty much any boost you can get
out of them if you are able
to suppress detonation.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 12:56:06
-0500
From: "Nemisis" <nemisis@vci.net>
Subject: Team3S: How
low of boost pressure is too low?
Hey again everyone,
Sorry to ask
so many questions lately but I'm just trying to learn about my
new spyder..
so anyway.. I'm trying to save some $$$ on gas. So.. I was
thinking of
turning my MBC down to like 4-5 PSI.. Would that damage the
engine in anyway
(since theyre designed for turbos)?
Thanks,
Jon
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 14:04:27
EDT
From: DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: How low of boost pressure is too low?
> I was thinking of
turning my MBC down to like 4-5 PSI..
I don't think it's possible
without an ECU upgrade or a complex vacuum system
that tricked your boost
selenoid. The stock ECU would take over and bring it
back up to stock
boost.
Paul Butkiewicz
3Si1127
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 14:27:04
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Intercooler fans.
Thanks, Rog. I need your setup on my car
then for the water temp control.
I do know that there has been big success
about the FMIC and relocated oil
cooler (to under the front lip). We
just need some more road cars with the
driver's income nearly unlimited to
put on these mods. And I would love to
install 8 gauges on my car to
but at nearly $150-$350 each it gets a little
expensive.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
Sent: Sunday, September 23,
2001 7:29 AM
The water temp never moves in my car even in hot days
driving at 280km/h on
the Autobahn or on a rally course with only going to
third in one straight.
Water Wetter does the trick too !
Due to the
gauge in Luis Miguels car from Spain, the oil temp is climbing
way above the
100°C when idling. Especially after a heavy test-drive the oil
is getting
even hotter during the "cool down" phase when the ambient is
around 28°C or
above and therefore even after a minute or so when the TT
switches off the
oil is still very hot in the turbos. Therefore such a fan
on the oilcooler
makes sense to me and may help to cool the oil down.
Antifreeze and oil
have indeed a higher boiling temp than water. For
roadracing, I'd have my car
full of gauges !!
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 14:52:27
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Winter tire choices
My stock tires are 245/40/18 and I want some
Bridgestone Blizzak winter
tires. Using the correct Plus Sizing (or
Minus Sizing) I think I can go to
some of the sizes below. And to those
not familiar with winter (snow)
driving -- you want the narrowest tire that
you can safely use.
Tire Rack shows the following sizes to fit the
17x8.5" rim that I have for
Blizzak MZ-01 tires and their overall diameter is
included for anyone who
was looking at the Team3S FAQ on Plus
Sizing:
225/45/17 25.2"
225/50/17 26.0"
235/45/17
25.6"
245/45/17 25.9"
255/40/17 25.3"
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?make=Bridgestone&model=Blizzak+MZ-01
Since
our page says the 18" stock tire for me has an overall diameter of
25,72"
then any of these appear to be good for the job.
1. Can someone tell me
if it is better to get the 225- or 235-width tire?
2. Can someone tell me if
it is better to get the 45- or 50-height aspect
ratio?
I would guess a
taller sidewall in winter since there will be lots of snow
and debris to
drive through. Not that 5% will really matter but looking for
some
advice.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 that gets driven year-round in all
weather
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 12:11:37
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: How low of boost pressure is too low?
The ECU does not
control the boost as directly as that. The stock BC
solenoid establishes
"max" boost level when operating correctly and
with no modifications to the
BC system. All the ECU can do is
modulate the stock BC solenoid. See the
Stealth Tech Info Manual for
details.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-stim.htm
Whenever
an electronic BC is installed, the stock BC solenoid is
removed from the
loop. The ECU is no longer involved in boost
control. This is critical, as
the ECU normally may try to reduce
boost when excessive knock is detected
(along with other actions).
In ALL cases, the wastegate actuators for
TD04 turbos opens the
wastgates when 6-7 psi of pressure is applied to the
actuator hose
(and the actuators are in good condition). Note: It is
always
possible to have less boost than that or no boost by judicious use
of
the gas pedal. However, in WOT operation the minimum maximum boost
will
be 6-7 psi if all plenum pressure reaches the wastegate
actuators. Whenever
some of the plenum pressure does not reach the
actuator (bled off or using a
restrictor), then boost at the plenum
will be higher than 6-7 psi. A
condition many, if not most, of us
strive for. :)
Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
- --- DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com wrote:
>
> I was thinking of turning my MBC down to like 4-5 PSI..
>
> I
don't think it's possible without an ECU upgrade or a complex
> vacuum
system that tricked your boost selenoid. The stock ECU
> would
take over and bring it back up to stock boost.
> Paul
Butkiewicz
> 3Si1127
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 22:10:07
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: How low of boost pressure is too low?
Hey, you control your
fuel consumption by your right foot. Just shift at
2500 into next gear and
never drive above 30mph.
In any way ... I never heard of one asking how
to get less power with the
goal to safe fuel. In fact, I got better milage
with the boost controller at
1 bar as the car has a better burn and doesn't
waste that much fuel !
Roger, Switzerland = high fuel
prices
93'3000GT
> > I was thinking of turning my MBC down to
like 4-5 PSI..
>
> I don't think it's possible without an ECU
upgrade or a complex vacuum
system
> that tricked your boost
selenoid. The stock ECU would take over and bring
it
> back up to
stock boost.
> Paul Butkiewicz
> 3Si1127
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 23:23:05
+0300
From: "Oleg Reznik" <Oleg@3000gt.lv>
Subject: Team3S: Japan
CAPS
Hello,
I just received Japan CAPS program. There are 5 cd,
work perfect, many
interesting things I found... if you have any questions,
you can email me
directly.
Regards,
Oleg Reznik
www.3000gt.lv
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 15:52:40
-0500
From: "Nemisis" <nemisis@vci.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
How low of boost pressure is too low?
My VDO boost gauge is reading 4 PSI
now thought.. I simply opened the MBC as
wide as it would go and now my boost
caps at 4-5 PSI... So if its not
possible why would it be reading like
that??
Jon
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius"
<stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, September 23, 2001 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: How low of boost
pressure is too low?
> The ECU does not control the boost as directly
as that. The stock BC
> solenoid establishes "max" boost level when
operating correctly and
> with no modifications to the BC system. All the
ECU can do is
> modulate the stock BC solenoid. See the Stealth Tech Info
Manual for
> details.
>
> http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-stim.htm
>
>
Whenever an electronic BC is installed, the stock BC solenoid is
> removed
from the loop. The ECU is no longer involved in boost
> control. This is
critical, as the ECU normally may try to reduce
> boost when excessive
knock is detected (along with other actions).
>
> In ALL cases, the
wastegate actuators for TD04 turbos opens the
> wastgates when 6-7 psi of
pressure is applied to the actuator hose
> (and the actuators are in good
condition). Note: It is always
> possible to have less boost than that or
no boost by judicious use of
> the gas pedal. However, in WOT operation
the minimum maximum boost
> will be 6-7 psi if all plenum pressure reaches
the wastegate
> actuators. Whenever some of the plenum pressure does not
reach the
> actuator (bled off or using a restrictor), then boost at the
plenum
> will be higher than 6-7 psi. A condition many, if not most, of
us
> strive for. :)
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
>
> --- DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com wrote:
>
> > I was thinking of turning my MBC down to like 4-5 PSI..
>
>
> > I don't think it's possible without an ECU upgrade or a
complex
> > vacuum system that tricked your boost selenoid.
The stock ECU
> > would take over and bring it back up to stock
boost.
> > Paul Butkiewicz
> > 3Si1127
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 15:57:22
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: How low of boost pressure is too low?
According the service
manual (see the Intake section), when the
wastegate actuators are functioning
*properly* they are designed to
open the wastegates between 2.9 and 8.7 psi.
It seems yours open at
the middle of this range. The 6-7 psi is just the
range most of us
see when all plenum pressure reaches the actuators and it is
the
range often cited by manufacturers when describing this equipment.
I
usually see about 0.4 kg/cm2 (5.7 psi) or so when I turn off my
EVC
IV.
Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
- --- Nemisis
<nemisis@vci.net> wrote:
> My
VDO boost gauge is reading 4 PSI now thought.. I simply opened
> the MBC
as wide as it would go and now my boost caps at 4-5 PSI...
> So if its not
possible why would it be reading like that??
>
>
Jon
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 19:03:15
-0500
From: "Nemisis" <nemisis@vci.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
How low of boost pressure is too low?
So does this mean somethings wrong
with my car??
Jon
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff
Lucius" <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, September 23, 2001 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: How low of boost
pressure is too low?
> According the service manual (see the Intake
section), when the
> wastegate actuators are functioning *properly* they
are designed to
> open the wastegates between 2.9 and 8.7 psi. It seems
yours open at
> the middle of this range. The 6-7 psi is just the range
most of us
> see when all plenum pressure reaches the actuators and it is
the
> range often cited by manufacturers when describing this equipment.
I
> usually see about 0.4 kg/cm2 (5.7 psi) or so when I turn off my
EVC
> IV.
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
>
> ---
Nemisis <nemisis@vci.net>
wrote:
> > My VDO boost gauge is reading 4 PSI now thought.. I simply
opened
> > the MBC as wide as it would go and now my boost caps at 4-5
PSI...
> > So if its not possible why would it be reading like
that??
> >
> > Jon
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 21:41:15
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spark Plugs
>At $0.99 I would be a little worried. It is
another one of those things on
these cars that when you calculate it you
are
>spending a little more on for that "peace of mind." Just like
the 94
octane gas >the long run and the car stays happy. Run those
$1.00 special
ones if you want but I think sometimes you get what you pay
for.
>
I actually switched to copper because for high performance
use, the
platinums suffer from too much spark blow-out. and as for the
cheapies,
Champion makes good plugs, and these have netted me several 1/4
mile runs
close to mid 12s (12.55,12.65,12.67). This is with just
filter, gutted
cats, and a d.p.--with 98,000 miles on the original
motor! I actually
prefer to race with new plugs in the car and
changing the plugs takes me all
of 35-40 minutes---I actually prefer taking
the intake off versus the
straining for the rear plugs on my 94
T/A.
Sam
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 22:00:59
-0600
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Winter tire choices
Flash,
My setup for winter is the
Pirelli 235/45R17 on 17" Mille Miglia Spider
rims. I would not go to 225 as
the 225s that I ran for awhile on my car made
for some less-than-desirable
handling characteristics.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98
VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on
9/23/01 12:52, Darren Schilberg at dschilberg@pobox.com
scribbled:
> My stock tires are 245/40/18 and I want some Bridgestone
Blizzak winter
> tires. Using the correct Plus Sizing (or Minus
Sizing) I think I can go to
> some of the sizes below. And to those
not familiar with winter (snow)
> driving -- you want the narrowest tire
that you can safely use.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1 #623
***************************************