Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, September 22 2001 Volume 01 : Number 622




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Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 19:18:22 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Setting up the brakes.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Darren Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>

> Since this is a brake topic I will try to see if ABS kicks in or if I leave
> any marks on the road from the rear tires, etc.  Stay tuned.

Dont forget to try with the ABS disconnected --- 10 amp fuse, NOT the
60 amp fusable link.

        Jim Berry

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: 21 Sep 2001 19:49:29 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: Intercooler fans.

At work we use a 230cfm fan that draws less than 20 amps to run a cab fan on FedEx trucks.  I was sizing this fan up the other day and noticed it was about the same size as a stock intercooler.

It is a pulltype fan that lookes like a radiator fan.
It looks like it would fit on the back of the stock intercoolers well.  I could wire them using a relay to get power directly from the battery.

I think these fans are $30 a each.  Do you think this would be a worthwhile modification with stock turbos?  The exhaust could also be ducted to cool the front brakes.

John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 23:07:36 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Setting up the brakes.

Actually I will keep the ABS fuse in the car since this is how I race on the
track.  I'll let someone else take out the ABS.  I don't have the liberty of
a side open land.  We have ditches and trees on both sides of the roads out
here.

Maybe I can attach the video camera on the mount on the rollbar and video
the G-Tech or something like that.

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 10:18 PM

Dont forget to try with the ABS disconnected --- 10 amp fuse, NOT the
60 amp fusable link.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 23:18:34 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Intercooler fans.

Seems like a good idea but remember that there is not much room underneath
the car for ducting.  I think I have some old pics from my duct if I can
find the pages.  They are not on there anymore but I had two options so far.
Option #2 was the better of the two.  It was ripped off by the Sears guys in
order to do an alignment (idiots).

Anyway, anything is better for the stock brakes and Big Reds to cool them
(with steel rotors that is) so keep us posted.  Here are the two links
(remember to paste the entire line into the web browser)

Trial #1 (not successful)
http://www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/brakes/Brake_ducts/front_brake_sco
op.html

Trial #2 (quite successful)
http://www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/brakes/Brake_ducts/pages/Brake_duc
t2_wheel_turned_side.htm

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: John Monnin
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 10:49 PM

At work we use a 230cfm fan that draws less than 20 amps to run a cab fan on
FedEx trucks.  I was sizing this fan up the other day and noticed it was
about the same size as a stock intercooler.

It is a pulltype fan that lookes like a radiator fan.
It looks like it would fit on the back of the stock intercoolers well.  I
could wire them using a relay to get power directly from the battery.

I think these fans are $30 a each.  Do you think this would be a worthwhile
modification with stock turbos?  The exhaust could also be ducted to cool
the front brakes.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 20:07:27 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Setting up the brakes.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Darren Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>

> Actually I will keep the ABS fuse in the car since this is how I race on the
> track.  I'll let someone else take out the ABS.  I don't have the liberty of
> a side open land.  We have ditches and trees on both sides of the roads out

A great opportunity to practice your threshold braking --- you  don't have to
slide the car off the road, just get a feel for the car without ABS.

Don't be a wuss !!!

        Jim Berry

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 23:55:07 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Setting up the brakes.

Not being a wuss has been driving the last track even with no health
insurance, driving the last 10,000 miles with no warranty, and driving the
last (guessing) 1,000 miles with cords showing on one tire (oops).  Luckily
some of these are being fixed (the tire has already been changed) but doing
the track event (the one that was 15 hours away) was the exciting one since
I had no coverage for me or car.

I'll see if I get bold to report on no ABS braking.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 11:07 PM

A great opportunity to practice your threshold braking --- you  don't have
to
slide the car off the road, just get a feel for the car without ABS.

Don't be a wuss !!!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 21:06:56 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Pass Emissions with a Test Pipe?

The point of a test pipe is so you can replace your cat and pass
inspection  :)

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 7:13 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Pass Emissions with a Test Pipe?

So who on the list is going to step up and say they work in a testing
place and will be looking for our cars?  Anyone?  Bueller?  I seem to
recall a poster in John Christian's garage of a first gen Stealth at an
emissions test (artist rendering not a photo).  I think he said he got
that for helping a friend setup an emission machine with his car (which
had no cats, exhaust, etc. so it failed every test but boy did it sound
nice he said).

John?  Any idea about how to get around this?  Like I said, around here
they make your car sit so it is cold and not real hot to help burn off
the extra bad stuff.  That undoes all the things we used to do like
drive like a banshee the hour leading up to the appointment.  Then the
car was so hot it burned up everything even at idle.

But true about the test pipe and visual test on the cat.  It is illegal
to sell a car without a cat.  Not sure how "illegal" it is to drive
without one but they clearly do not pass inspection (emission) without
one.

- --Flash!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 21:33:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Wanted..data!

I need:

Piston diameters for VR4 brake calipers, and the BR calipers.

Anyone able to help on this?

In inches please.
* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 21:40:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Interesting facts about DOT5 fluid for the FAQ

DOT5 fluid:

Silicone based, will NOT harm standard systems.

Will not mix with glycol based fluid (standard brake fluid is like this).
The old fluid will pool in the system and corrode/mess things up over
time.

Unlike glycol based fluid, it is not hygroscopic, and doesnt absorb water
from that atmosphere.

Also unlike glycol fluid, it will NOT harm painted surfaces.  This is what
makes it popular with restoration projects.

And most importantly, DOT5/Silicone based fluid can become VERY unstable
at temperature resulting in a low, or constantly changing pedal feeling.
This is complicated by atmosphereic pressure shifts as well.  RACERS DO
NOT USE DOT5 FLUID.

* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 21:48:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Team3S: Caliper coatings that work

Swain Tech Coatings offers a BrakeCoat, that can do many good things:

Ceramic coat the inside of the caliper and pistons to keep heat OUT.

AND..

Coat the caliper to add up to 50% more heat dissipation on the outside.

http://www.swaintech.com/autolc.html

Costs:

http://www.swaintech.com/orderform10.htm 

The costs seem well worth the work..considering what you already paid for
the BR kit.  IMHO, Brad should think about offering this.

(Data gatherered from my magical brake tech book)

* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 01:09:20 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 10.4 sec 1/4 mile run: Reality or fantasy?

I haven't heard anything about any such run / car.  Where did this
information come from?

Curious,
Joe G.

Jeff VanOrsdal wrote:

> I've heard someone has claimed a 10.4 run in a VR4.  Is this true, do we
> have any hard information to back it up?
>
> Jeff VanOrsdal

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 04:16:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wanted..data!

For the 3S cars, this information is in the service manuals - mm and
inches. This info is also reported in my brake upgrade guide.

http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-brakeupgrade.htm

The cylinders are the same in all years of AWD models.
Front: 40.4 mm or 1-19/32 inches and 42.8 mm or 1-11/16 inches.

My web page also reports the information I have found for Brembo
("older" or "Porsche" version) and AP calipers.

Brembo:
as reported by Jeff V. for their new setup for us:
 40 mm and 44 mm
as reported in the past (Porsche Brembos):
 38 mm and 44 mm

The "older" Brembo calipers have less piston area than our stock
ones. The "newer" Brembo cylinders offer more area and so more
multiplying power than the stock caliper cylinders.

The AP 6-pot caliper is reported to have 27 mm, 32 mm, and 38 mm
cylinders. This area is slightly less than our stock caliper piston
area and so has slightly less "multiplying force".

If my info is incorrect for the Brembo or AP calipers, someone please
tell me so I can correct my brake upgrade web page. Thanks.

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- --- Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com> wrote:
> I need:
>
> Piston diameters for VR4 brake calipers, and the BR calipers.
>
> Anyone able to help on this?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 08:13:14 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Track wheels

I picked up a set of 18 x 8.5 Voxx (used to be fittipaldi) Argus wheels from
Discount for 174.00ea.  They appear to have a very beefy spoke design.  They
weigh the same as the stock wheels as they are not forged, (don't think the
stock wheels are forged either) and they survived the first track session
running BFG g-force tires.  They also look good on our cars IMHO.  If anyone
wants more info let me know.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 09:20:39 -0700
From: Rick <melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Team3S: I need some Vacuum hose connection pics 92 TT

  Thanks Chris and Cody,for your help last night.I did get the oil gauge
working,and it was unpluged(Chris).I can't see any vacuum/boost hoses
not where they should be just looking at them,but need to know where
they should be,and could really use a pic.Can someone help me out?
Thanks,
RICK

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 09:26:56 -0700
From: Rick <melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Team3S: I need some Vacuum hose connection pics 92 TT

Sorry to post this again but it was Andy and Cody,don't know where I got
Chris from.
  Thanks Andy and Cody,for your help last night.I did get the oil gauge
working,and it was unpluged(Andy).I can't see any vacuum/boost hoses
not where they should be just looking at them,but need to know where
they should be,and could really use a pic.Can someone help me out?
Thanks,
RICK

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 09:30:19 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: I need some Vacuum hose connection pics 92 TT

Pictures of which vacuum hose connections?  I have some but can take more
for anyone.

http://www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/engine/06-28-2000_1995_VR-4_Vacuum
_lines.jpg

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with HoseTechniques vacuum hose upgrade (in many places)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rick
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 12:21 PM

  Thanks Chris and Cody,for your help last night.I did get the oil gauge
working,and it was unpluged(Chris).I can't see any vacuum/boost hoses
not where they should be just looking at them,but need to know where
they should be,and could really use a pic.Can someone help me out?
Thanks,
RICK

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 08:54:46 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: Racing Seats

I just pulled out and weighed my passanger seat.  It comes in at a portly
45lbs.  It's time for me to finally make my instructors happy and put in a
set of seats.  My gravity challanged car could use the weight  reduction as
well.  I recall a thread sometime back but I couldn't find it in the
archive.  Does anyone have experience with installing a set of racing seats,
.e. what brand, how well did they fit etc.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 10:06:59 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Team3S: Hot to launch URL links

To anyone who can not get URLs to come up in posts here please copy and
paste the entire URL into the web address manually.  Sometimes the URL gets
cut-off because we use Plain Text and there is no "smart" line breaks.  An
example is below.  The page should be
"06-28-2000_1995_VR-4_Vacuum_lines.jpg" but this gets broken up when sent.

I have seen this about a hundred times and posts of posts to the list just
jumble up the Digest users.  Sorry to spout but sometimes we have gotten so
lazy that if it doesn't work we complain to the list instead of looking at
the address and thinking, "Hmmm. I got almost all of the address but this
page does not end in '.html' and that is strange - I wonder if I copied the
entire address."

Surf on,

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 9:30 AM

Pictures of which vacuum hose connections?  I have some but can take more
for anyone.

http://www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/engine/06-28-2000_1995_VR-4_Vacuum
_lines.jpg

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with HoseTechniques vacuum hose upgrade (in many places)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 16:16:50 +0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 10.4 sec 1/4 mile run: Reality or fantasy?

The claim of a 10.4 run is a missunderstanding. I where duscussing a totally other topic regarding engine management systems (on another forum..) and described that one new function in the EMS lowered our times from 10.7 to 10.4. That was true but it was not with our VR-4 the times where set with our Supra. I explained the missunderstanding later in that thread.

The best time with a VR4 is still Jack T's several years old record.

/Mikael Kenson

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
To: "Team3s Tech List" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 5:55 PM
Subject: Team3S: 10.4 sec 1/4 mile run: Reality or fantasy?

> I've heard someone has claimed a 10.4 run in a VR4.  Is this true, do we
> have any hard information to back it up?
>
> The technical content comes when/if we find out who did this and HOW they
> did it.
>
> Jeff VanOrsdal
> 1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
> jeffv@1nce.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 10:19:35 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Racing Seats

Eh-hum.  Speak to the master.  What do you need to know?  I think I was
actually the third one that we knows of to install seats.  Mikael Kenson has
two carbon-fiber seats in his beast, then Arty had one in the rocketship,
and I am not sure if George Kuo has one or not.

Since then, I have installed one, Jim Berry has one (I think) and perhaps
another one on the West coast of the states.  I think I am the only one on
the East coast with one.  Nobody else at Gatherings have them so I am
running solo at the moment.

I do not yet have the instructions on my page on how to do this but I do
have pictures that I will post sometime.  Maybe this morning if I get the
incentive.  I thought I made a simple write-up on the FAQ pages but I do not
see it there (Forrest?  Did I ever send this to you?).  Below are the links
that I know of.  Please ask for more details and I will give them and post
those Q&A on the install page.

If there is something I can say before you start is BE SAFE.  You must use
Grade 8 (English) or Grade 8.8 (Metric) bolts or it will not pass
inspection.  True nobody will crawl under the seat to check but you are
trusting your life with this so only use the best possible hardware.

Mikael's page:
http://www.3000gt.nu/

My page:
http://www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/seat/seat.html


- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with race seat (when it is racing season)

- -----Original Message-----
From: bdtrent
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 9:55 AM

I just pulled out and weighed my passanger seat.  It comes in at a portly
45lbs.  It's time for me to finally make my instructors happy and put in a
set of seats.  My gravity challanged car could use the weight  reduction as
well.  I recall a thread sometime back but I couldn't find it in the
archive.  Does anyone have experience with installing a set of racing seats,
.e. what brand, how well did they fit etc.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 10:43:12 -0500
From: "Nemisis" <nemisis@vci.net>
Subject: Team3S: CD Changer Compatibility

Hey everyone!

Just a quick question.. Are there any aftermarket head units that are
compatible with the stock CD changer in a 95 Spyder VR-4? I really dont have
any other place to mount one... so I need to find something that will work
with the stock 6-disc...Thanks in advance :)

Jon
95 Spyder VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 08:26:38 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Racing Seats

I solved the problem by replacing my stock seat with a Kirky aluminum
race seat when I get to the track --- it takes me about 10 minutes if I
have my tools and stuff ready to go. I designed and built a special
adapter to take advantage of the stock seat fastener locations --- it was a
PITA --- the stock seat only has 4 bolts but they are at different heights
and alignment. I also use a trailer with my spares, race rubber, pop-up,
seat, etc.etc.

The seat makes a huge difference for me [ I'm bigger than the average
bear ] and I was getting tossed around a lot. You may not notice it but
quite a bit of effort goes into maintaining your position in the car.

A racing buddy [ Kurt Zobel ] has one also but leaves his in for his daily
driver.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: bdtrent <bdtrent@netzero.net>
To: Team 3S <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 6:54 AM
Subject: Team3S: Racing Seats

> I just pulled out and weighed my passanger seat.  It comes in at a portly
> 45lbs.  It's time for me to finally make my instructors happy and put in a
> set of seats.  My gravity challanged car could use the weight  reduction as
> well.  I recall a thread sometime back but I couldn't find it in the
> archive.  Does anyone have experience with installing a set of racing seats,
> .e. what brand, how well did they fit etc.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 08:36:12 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hot to launch URL links

It would also help if people would go to tools - options -send or read - plain
text settings and change their line wrap to 132 bits ---- it seems most of the
people have the wrap set an 50 characters which causes all these fragmented
messages.

Jim Berry
=======================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Darren Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>

> To anyone who can not get URLs to come up in posts here please copy and
> paste the entire URL into the web address manually.  Sometimes the URL gets
> cut-off because we use Plain Text and there is no "smart" line breaks.  An
> example is below.  The page should be
> "06-28-2000_1995_VR-4_Vacuum_lines.jpg" but this gets broken up when sent.
>
> I have seen this about a hundred times and posts of posts to the list just
> jumble up the Digest users.  Sorry to spout but sometimes we have gotten so
> lazy that if it doesn't work we complain to the list instead of looking at
> the address and thinking, "Hmmm. I got almost all of the address but this
> page does not end in '.html' and that is strange - I wonder if I copied the
> entire address."

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 08:42:11 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Racing Seats

One of the areas most often ignored is to have the back of the seat braced.
The belts stop forward motion and the door and console keep it from going
side to side but in a rear end collision [ back the car into a wall ] you could
end up in the back seat.

        Jim Berry
================================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Darren Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>

> If there is something I can say before you start is BE SAFE.  You must use
> Grade 8 (English) or Grade 8.8 (Metric) bolts or it will not pass
> inspection.  True nobody will crawl under the seat to check but you are
> trusting your life with this so only use the best possible hardware.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 12:25:01 EDT
From: DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Pass Emissions with a Test Pipe?

> The point of a test pipe is so you can replace your cat and pass
>  inspection  :)

Matt, keep in mind that not all aftermarket DP's have test pipes.  The
stillen has a flex section which I'm going to try to pass off as an
"integrated catalytic convertor."  =)  I'll let you guys know how the car
does with the Stillen DP.  I need to get an inspection (bought the car 6
months ago and still don't have a valid inspection sticker) sometime when I
get my DP but they're on backorder at Stillen right now.  I should know in
about two weeks.

- -Paul - 3Si1127
Race Seats, Performance, Audio, and Mitsuparts retailer
1992 Green RT/TT
    K&N FIPK & Re-gapped plugs(0.034")
    Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads, & SS lines
    Greddy Profec Boost Controller @ .9 Bar
    Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com, www.DiabloEnterprises.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 10:17:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wanted..data!

> Brembo:
> as reported by Jeff V. for their new setup for us:
>  40 mm and 44 mm
- ---

Cool, I'll rework the #s Sunday perhaps...full day today.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 10:34:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wanted..data!

I gotta problem with your chart.

A single front caliper on the VR4 has just short of 8.5in^2 of surface
area at the pistons.  Your chart shows 1.34in^2.

Each small one has 1.98in^2, each large one has 2.24in^2, the rears are
1.77in^2 each.

On Sat, 22 Sep 2001, Geoff Mohler wrote:

> > Brembo:
> > as reported by Jeff V. for their new setup for us:
> >  40 mm and 44 mm
> ---
>
> Cool, I'll rework the #s Sunday perhaps...full day today.

* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 14:12:20 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1991 3000 GT VR-4

I have RPO1s and they are not track proven at least by me, but they have
survived almost a year of street beating and potholes without even a mark
while the stock chromes were all dented at the bead.  Seem tough and the
tiny spokes are probably a good 1"x1" in section at the perimeter.

Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>; Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
<Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Friday, September 21, 2001 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1991 3000 GT VR-4

>>4) Cheapest good wheels for our cars might be Enkei RP01 in 17x9 at
>>$176 each at Discount Tire ($205 in 18x9). The stock ones are not
>>cheap.
>
>Do you think those teeny tiny spokes can withstand the cornering forces of
>open tracking? When I bought my Milli Miglias, the wheel wizards at
>TireRack said to be careful about skinny spokes like that. He didn't
>mention the Enkeis in particular, but he said very few wheels work on our
>cars.
>
>Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 14:35:41 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wanted..data!

AP makes a kit about the same price (a little less) with 6 piston calipers
and 14" rotors Dynamic Racing sells them

Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To: team3s@team3s.com <team3s@team3s.com>; 3sracers@speedtoys.com
<3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Date: Saturday, September 22, 2001 4:17 AM
Subject: Team3S: Wanted..data!

>I need:
>
>Piston diameters for VR4 brake calipers, and the BR calipers.
>
>Anyone able to help on this?
>
>In inches please.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 14:09:12 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Spark Plugs

Just use copper champion 70s (replacement).  They are 99 cents each and work
the same IMHO.  I replace mine every year (15,000 miles) anyway cause I drag
race and have to keep an eye on the gap.  They always look fine when I take
them out

Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: bob <eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
To: 'MAJA' <mxjashogar@home.com>; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Friday, September 21, 2001 2:52 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spark Plugs

>I got jabbed for 16.50 ea. USD with no tax but paid about 4.00 to ship
them.
>Do as the board says and get a real nice torque wrench with the money you
saved.
>I even got a free lawn chair with my torque wrench..........this car is
nothing but a giver.
>
>search the net to find them...most speed shops for our cars will have them
and if you look hard enough you might
>find them for 12.50.....good luck.....BTW the gasket is about 14.00 from
the local parts shop
>
>enjoy the day...........
>
>bob K.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: MAJA [SMTP:mxjashogar@home.com]
>Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 7:18 AM
>To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject: Team3S: Spark Plugs
>
>Hello I want to know if the NGK Platinum spark plugs are available for
>less money than here in Canada . They want $ 53.00 Can plus15% tax on
>top of that for one . I am thinking about installing the Bosch ones due
>to the expense . Can I get 100,000 Clicks on those ? Thanks
>Garry 93ES Stealth

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 14:34:18 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Setting up the brakes.

I think I stop faster locking up the wheels then with ABS especially in snow
cause the damn car never stops.  I will be going 5mph with the brakes to the
floor and the ABS yammering and 100ft to stop.....and it never does till I
let off the brake and back on and the car almost stops until the ABS goes on
again.  Broke the stud on the rear ABS sensor doing a bearing, so I do not
have ABS anymore, and it feels much better..

Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Saturday, September 22, 2001 3:56 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Setting up the brakes.

>Not being a wuss has been driving the last track even with no health
>insurance, driving the last 10,000 miles with no warranty, and driving the
>last (guessing) 1,000 miles with cords showing on one tire (oops).  Luckily
>some of these are being fixed (the tire has already been changed) but doing
>the track event (the one that was 15 hours away) was the exciting one since
>I had no coverage for me or car.
>
>I'll see if I get bold to report on no ABS braking.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Berry
>Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 11:07 PM
>
>A great opportunity to practice your threshold braking --- you  don't have
>to
>slide the car off the road, just get a feel for the car without ABS.
>
>Don't be a wuss !!!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 12:01:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wanted..data!

I am just using "one" of each piston pair. This is what many brake
manufacturers recommend. You can use both piston areas if you want.
This does not change the relative surface areas for the different
calipers.

A review for the mathematically challenged:   :)

Area = PI times (radius squared). Just use 3.14159 for PI.

Stock: 4.2 in2 of area (multiply by 2 if you like, ditto for others)
40.4 mm --> 1281.8955 mm2 --> 1.987 in2
42.8 mm --> 1438.7238 mm2 --> 2.23 in2

Old Brembo (Porsche): 4.115 in2 of piston area
38 mm --> 1134.115 mm2 --> 1.758 in2
44 mm --> 1520.531 mm2 --> 2.357 in2

"New" Brembo: 4.305 in2 of piston area
40 mm --> 1256.637 mm2 --> 1.948 in2
44 mm --> 1520.531 mm2 --> 2.357 in2

The "new" Brembos supply 2.5% more surface area than the stock
calipers. Why is surface area important? Because, the force
(pressure) applied to the brake fluid by the master cylinder is
multiplied by the ratio of caliper piston surface area to master
cylinder piston area (26.9 mm diam --> 568.322 mm2 --> 0.881 in2).

4.2 / 0.881 = 4.767 multiplier
4.305 / 0.881 = 4.886 multiplier, a 2.5% increase. Is that big deal?

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- --- Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com> wrote:
> I gotta problem with your chart.
>
> A single front caliper on the VR4 has just short of 8.5in^2 of
> surface area at the pistons.  Your chart shows 1.34in^2.
>
> Each small one has 1.98in^2, each large one has 2.24in^2, the rears
> are 1.77in^2 each.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 22:33:20 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Intercooler fans.

> I think these fans are $30 a each.  Do you think this would be a
worthwhile modification with stock turbos?  The exhaust could also be ducted
to cool the front brakes.

Cooling the brakes is a nother thing so I may address this only for the IC.

I currently can't see any advantage in putting some fans behind them. At
idle, the traveling air through the IC is too small so heat is not well
transferred. It will be heated up again after the ICs anyways. Also at speed
the fans will become useless.

I think it is more important to put such a fan behind the oil cooler :)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 16:53:58 -0400
From: MAJA <mxjashogar@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Spark Plugs

Thank you all . Got the plugs ordered at 10.95 US much better than original
quote . US dealership had them at $ 25 US and some Michigan part stores don't
carry them .
PS Thanks to all regarding headlights cutting off and on it was the Head light
relay .
Garry

"Jannusch, Matt" wrote:

> >  I called both Chrysler dealerships and both the Part guys
> > stressed $ 53.00 , Canadian Tire doesn't carry them . I tried
> > some other Auto parts and neither could get them?? As I live
> > in Ontario I thinking about driving to Michigan once this
> > border crackdown eases a bit . anymore info appreciated .
> > LMK Thanks Garry
>
> I got the copper version from a place in Canada...
>
> http://www.clubplug.net/
>
> They have the platinum stock plugs also, but those are $10.95 there.  They
> were pretty cheap (and also actually had) the copper versions in colder
> ranges.  Took a little while to get them, but they got here just fine.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 21:26:23 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: CD Changer Compatibility

Easy answer: no.  Better-defined answer: yes but there is a twist.

Really detailed answer: I believe there was a guy selling his Spyder VR-4 in
Florida and he had a killer system (trunk-mounted gadgets).  And my
brother-in-law works for Pioneer and took one look at the plug going to the
CD changer and said, "That connector is at least three versions old and not
many (if any) current CD players will match that but I can possibly get a
connector to go between the two.  Same thing with the head unit."

I have a stock Pioneer head unit, stock Pioneer CD-changer, but stock
Infinity speakers.  Getting an aftermarket radio will mean either losing the
steering wheel controls or finding someone who knows wiring enough to fix
this.  Same with speakers and CD-changer.  Some of the wiring harnesses
might not fit.

I believe Crutchfield does a good job of listing cars and components however
I have never seen the VR-4 or TT (or any Stealth or 3000GT for that matter)
in their catalog.  Maybe some other shop (like Radio Shack, Best Buy, etc.)
can be persuaded with enough cashola to hand-make something.  Eric Bowden,
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/8900/, has done a good bit of radio work
and so have some others at these Gatherings (a great place to find experts
in their own field).  Contact him for some initial help.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with the only rollbar-mounted rear speakers in the world

- -----Original Message-----
From: Nemisis
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 11:43 AM

Just a quick question.. Are there any aftermarket head units that are
compatible with the stock CD changer in a 95 Spyder VR-4? I really dont have
any other place to mount one... so I need to find something that will work
with the stock 6-disc...Thanks in advance :)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 21:48:54 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Setting up the brakes.

Reporting on the drive back from Ohio today (plenty of flat side roads on which to practice) I FINALLY got it to register the 60-0
run.  First time was 135 feet and the second on was 143 feet (always do a run in the opposite direction to average the result).  I
think the 0-60 times were 7.09 and 12.83 respectively (grin) since I was only concentrating on the 60-0 part I just went nice and
easy around the corner until my pre-determined straightaway.

Both times the ABS did not kick in.  The first time was the only one where any of the tires "chirped" about halfway through
stopping.  Not sure if it was front or rear though.

These numbers come with the disclaimer of: half tank of gas, stock driver seat, stock passenger seat, full-size spare tire, 2-ton
floor jack, and rollbar.  If I put in the race seat and take out everything else then I would be down about 150-175 pounds.  That
was also with Big Reds, Porsche street pads, three tires that are about worn to cords and one new tire.

I know I would be able to get those numbers down into the mid 120s but I'm not sure the G-Tech stops measuring when the car stops.
I had to get the car up to about 68+ mph before it would read stopping distance as stopping at 62-66 mph did not get it to read
anything.  That is why the numbers are high.  I had to do about 6-8 stops in order to get those two distances so I think the
brakes were getting a little tired of my stomping on them with a 4,100 pound car.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 21:53:08 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spark Plugs

At $0.99 I would be a little worried.  It is another one of those things on these cars that when you calculate it you are
spending, approximately, $75 for plugs every 60,000 miles (3-5 years for most of us) or $15-25 a year.  Some things I don't mind
spending a little more on for that "peace of mind."  Just like the 94 octane gas compared to 91.  A few cents doesn't matter in
the long run and the car stays happy.  Run those $1.00 special ones if you want but I think sometimes you get what you pay for.
You get to change them every year so that is not a problem.  I think the majority of us (me included) don't like having to dig at
the rear plugs each summer.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 w/ recent stock NGK plugs

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 21:59:47 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Intercooler fans.

Not sure the oil cooler needs it.  When I am on a road course at full boost for 20 minutes (or as much boost as one lap can
handle) the water temp creeps up toward red not the oil temp.  I think the water needs cooled better than the oil.

I don't have an oil temp only an oil pressure but since PV=nRT then as the Pressure (P) rises that means the Temperature (T) has
to rise to make both sides of the equation equal.  Unless, Temperature (T) rises and (nR) drops or Pressure (P) rises and Volume
(V) drops.  I don't think the volume in a closed system can change since it all remains a liquid.  Therefore I ass-u-me that the
oil temp is not too far off the oil press measurements (meaning if oil press hovers around midway then oil temp is probably near
stable and if oil press starts to rise then the temp will also but this stops around the third tick on the stock oil press gauge
and never goes higher).

Someone let me know who has an oil temperature on a road racing car and I'll gladly change my thinking.  Also, I think the oil has
a higher boiling temp than the antifreeze/water combination or at least it does not degrade until a higher temp.  Anyone care to
clarify this?

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 4:33 PM

Cooling the brakes is a nother thing so I may address this only for the IC.

I currently can't see any advantage in putting some fans behind them. At
idle, the traveling air through the IC is too small so heat is not well
transferred. It will be heated up again after the ICs anyways. Also at speed
the fans will become useless.

I think it is more important to put such a fan behind the oil cooler :)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 19:05:59 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: Team3S: DSM 450cc injectors

Hey everyone, need some help. Will the DSM 450cc injectors fit right in
our cars with no modification (besides the fuel controller), I mean do
they fit the stock injector location correctly? Also, what boost can you
run with these safely? I figure if you can get 14 PSI to 14.5 PSI safely
in most cases on stock everything else, what should you be able to get
with the 450's? And how much should I expect to pay for them? Thanks!

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 22:10:14 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Racing Seats

Great points, Jim.  I forgot about the seat back brace.  I was instructed by I/O Port Racing (where I purchased the rollbar) that
some applications are not advisable to have this brace.  Maybe they were talking about stock seats.  I didn't get this for my seat
yet but see it lots of times for full-race cars at the Porsche club or EMRA-type events.

My seat is only about 4 inches in front of the rollbar so that will keep me from moving backwards in a rear shot.  Most people do
not have a rollbar though and the seat can very easily break loose and end up in the back seat (although the force to rip 4 Grade
8 bolts out of the floor would need to be absolutely tremendous it could still happen).

I also leave mine in for the daily driver.  It has been in since April and I've put in about 10,000 miles in it.  It is fantastic
and gets great double- and triple-takes but it does get a little rough doing 8+ hour drives in it.  Hard to recline it and catch a
few Zzzzz at the rest stops.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat, and 5-point safety harness for daily driver (gawd are they fun)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry [mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 11:42 AM

One of the areas most often ignored is to have the back of the seat braced.
The belts stop forward motion and the door and console keep it from going
side to side but in a rear end collision [ back the car into a wall ] you could
end up in the back seat.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 22:15:28 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Racing Seats

For the novice racers ...

Kirkey = "full-out" race seat and not real comfy in long drives
Sparco, Momo, OMP, Recaro, Corbeau, etc. seats = weekend to full race seats but more comfy for long drives or enduro races

It is also important to measure yourself and the seat to make sure it fits correctly, has the right recline angle, does it
recline, is it allowed to recline, does it have removable pads, etc.  Get to a place and see if you can get some seat time in the
race seats.  They are so comfy you won't like anything else.

www.ioportracing.com
www.ogracing.com
www.summitracing.com

- -_Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 11:27 AM

I solved the problem by replacing my stock seat with a Kirky aluminum
race seat ...

A racing buddy [ Kurt Zobel ] has one also but leaves his in for his daily
driver.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 22:02:25 -0500
From: "Nemisis" <nemisis@vci.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: CD Changer Compatibility

So do any of you know of anyone willing to sell such "handmade harnesses"

Thanks again,
Jon
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: "Team 3s" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 8:26 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: CD Changer Compatibility

> Easy answer: no.  Better-defined answer: yes but there is a twist.
>
> Really detailed answer: I believe there was a guy selling his Spyder VR-4
in
> Florida and he had a killer system (trunk-mounted gadgets).  And my
> brother-in-law works for Pioneer and took one look at the plug going to
the
> CD changer and said, "That connector is at least three versions old and
not
> many (if any) current CD players will match that but I can possibly get a
> connector to go between the two.  Same thing with the head unit."
>
> I have a stock Pioneer head unit, stock Pioneer CD-changer, but stock
> Infinity speakers.  Getting an aftermarket radio will mean either losing
the
> steering wheel controls or finding someone who knows wiring enough to fix
> this.  Same with speakers and CD-changer.  Some of the wiring harnesses
> might not fit.
>
> I believe Crutchfield does a good job of listing cars and components
however
> I have never seen the VR-4 or TT (or any Stealth or 3000GT for that
matter)
> in their catalog.  Maybe some other shop (like Radio Shack, Best Buy,
etc.)
> can be persuaded with enough cashola to hand-make something.  Eric Bowden,
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/8900/, has done a good bit of radio
work
> and so have some others at these Gatherings (a great place to find experts
> in their own field).  Contact him for some initial help.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with the only rollbar-mounted rear speakers in the world
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nemisis
> Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 11:43 AM
>
> Just a quick question.. Are there any aftermarket head units that are
> compatible with the stock CD changer in a 95 Spyder VR-4? I really dont
have
> any other place to mount one... so I need to find something that will work
> with the stock 6-disc...Thanks in advance :)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #622
***************************************