Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, September 20 2001 Volume 01 :
Number
619
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 Sep 2001 11:17:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brembo 3S Specific brake upgrade
Andie:
The NASA run
groups here give you a good full lap (2-4 minutes depending
on whether you
still think you should be 'racing' or not) for just this
purpose.
On
Thu, 20 Sep 2001, Andie W. Lin wrote:
> With regards to rotor
warpage:
>
> Warping of the rotors is an phenomenon which is
completely independent of
> the type of brake pad compound being
used. Rotors will warp when they are
> allowed to cool unevenly;
i.e. one part of the rotor cools faster than
> another part. This
will often occur when you park a car when the brakes are
> very hot, such
as when coming off the track. The part of the rotor which is
>
facing the pad is subject to the intense heat radiating from the pad,
while
> the rest of the rotor is allowed to cool, as it is exposed to the
air. For
> this reason, I recommend that after every track session,
or even when
> driving aggressive on the street, that you take a cool down
lap (on the
> street, just drive the car around for a few minutes to cool
everything off)
> or drive around the paddock area a couple times.
If you can't put your hand
> on the hub area of the wheel and not burn
yourself, it is too hot, and you
> should keep driving. Also, never
use your emergency/parking brake to hold
> the car when you come off the
track, as this can cause the rear pads to bond
> to the rear rotors, or at
the very least, promote rear rotor warping.
>
> Also, Carbotech
Engineering is now offerring out Panther Plus compound for
> Porsche 993
TT calipers; this is the CT594 pad. Please call if you would
> like
to order a set of these pads. Team3S members receive a 10%
discount
> from list.
>
> Regards,
>
> Andie
Lin
>
> andie w lin
> vp marketing and product
r&d
> carbotech engineering
>
http://www.carbotecheng.com> tel:
877.899.5024 | fax: 954.493.9669
>
> ::-----Original
Message-----
> ::Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 09:14:28 -0500
> ::From:
"Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
::Subject: RE: Team3S: Brembo 3S Specific brake upgrade
> ::
> ::My
son Mike has the Brembo F40 calipers through Stillen. We had some
>
::initial problems with the installation that were fixed by Stillen.
Since
> ::then, the brakes perform very well.
> ::
>
::Challenges we have encountered:
> ::
> ::1) slight rotor warpage
(like 0.002") using the supplied PAGID pads that
> ::generated noticeable
squeaking on the street. This doesn't
> ::happen with
the
> ::Hawk HP+ (I think) pads, but these have noticebly worse
performance on the
> ::track. Next pads we try will be Carbotech
Panther Plus.
> ::
> ::2) problems replacing the rotors - from
Stillen they are very expensive.
> ::Porterfield will custom make them,
but we haven't tried this yet. This is
> ::probably the route we we
take.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 14:09:35
-0400
From: "Andie W. Lin" <
andiewlin@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brembo 3S Specific brake upgrade
A good full lap should be
sufficient, but in the final lap, you should drive
around without using the
brakes at all, which means that you are NOT racing
anymore, and just putzing
around in coast mode. This is JMHO, based on
experience. Also,
anything you can do to more effectively cool your braking
system helps, such
as taking out the stone/dust shields which are behind the
rotors, and
installing cooling ducts which discharge air onto the
caliper.
Andie
andie w lin
vp marketing and product
r&d
carbotech engineering
http://www.carbotecheng.comtel:
877.899.5024 | fax: 954.493.9669
::-----Original Message-----
::From:
Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
::Sent: Thursday, September
20, 2001 2:18 PM
::To: Andie W. Lin
::Cc:
team3s-digest@speedracer.speedtoys.com::Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brembo 3S Specific brake upgrade
::
::The NASA run groups here
give you a good full lap (2-4 minutes depending
::on whether you still think
you should be 'racing' or not) for just this
::purpose.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 11:32:35
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Leaded race fuel
Hi Richard,
Yes, I used some unleaded
race fuel at the DSM
Shootout. Can't say it really made a
difference,
although I came in second to Jack T. and second
to
Wong the following year.
I don't normally use any race fuel
(unleaded or
leaded) cause of the cost $$$$$. I usually add
octane
booster at road course events.
Be of good
cheer,
John
- --- Richard <
radanc@home.com> wrote:
> How many
out there use leaded race fuel without
> cats. Any other
>
considerations or worries re: use of this? I have
> generally stuck
with
> 103 unleaded, but was considering going to the C-12
> 4.4g
lead per gallon
> from VP mixed with pump. As an aside, anyone
>
interested in F-1 tickets
> e-mail me privately as I don't think I am
going to
> go this year.
>
> Rich
> 92 Stealth
TT
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 15:51:44
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Leaded race fuel
I thought it wasn't good to run octane
boost.
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Christian
[mailto:jczoom_619@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 12:33
PM
To: Richard
Cc:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
Hi Richard,
Yes, I used some unleaded
race fuel at the DSM
Shootout. Can't say it really made a
difference,
although I came in second to Jack T. and second
to
Wong the following year.
I don't normally use any race fuel
(unleaded or
leaded) cause of the cost $$$$$. I usually add
octane
booster at road course events.
Be of good
cheer,
John
- --- Richard <
radanc@home.com> wrote:
> How many
out there use leaded race fuel without
> cats. Any other
>
considerations or worries re: use of this? I have
> generally stuck
with
> 103 unleaded, but was considering going to the C-12
> 4.4g
lead per gallon
> from VP mixed with pump. As an aside, anyone
>
interested in F-1 tickets
> e-mail me privately as I don't think I am
going to
> go this year.
>
> Rich
> 92 Stealth
TT
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 16:43:27
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: eRAM or Super-eRAM Experience
I've had excellent experience with
my power-ram trials on my NT.
.2 to .3 sec in the qtr, and 2-3 seconds at
road courses.
Check the link for a low price alternative, $20, for DIY
applications. Just need a little intake ducting from pep boys or home depot and
you're set. This would virtually eliminate turbo lag IMO. It definitely
would not cause restriction at 700cfm, but would not help much there.
Two work really well for NT ram application, in front of the airbox,
plumbed in from right wheelwell.
http://www.overton.com/cgi-bin/overtons/setcat.cgi?2This
would also work well for brake cooling! I would/may use the 3" vs 4" for
brakes, and even one split off to two brake ducts would do the trick. be sure to
mount away from the rotor and use heat resistant ducting for brake
applications.
Kurt / Skyrider
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jim Berry [mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Sunday,
September 16, 2001 10:58 AM
To: Darc; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: eRAM or
Super-eRAM Experience
I've considered using it to cool my rotors --- I
talked to the manufacturer
about buying a device with a lower airflow and a
higher duty cycle. They
said no problem, they could provide a modified
version which could be
run for a minute at a time if necessary. A little
pricey for brake cooling
but they do put out a good volume of air ---- we'll
see, maybe to go with
my carbon/carbon brake
setup.
Jim
Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Darc <
wce@telus.net>
To: Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, September 16, 2001 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: eRAM or Super-eRAM
Experience
> Hrmmm...certainly this musing not meant to replace the
psi of turbos, but I
> was thinking out loud about providing more air flow
via the airbox snorkel
> tunnel to the a MAS. Given all feedback,
not a worthwhile venture IMHO.
>
> Darc
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 17:12:29
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Leaded race fuel
Let me know if I'm wrong but I thought someone
mentioned not to use octane
boost. I was thinking of using it until I saw it
can cause problems.
Curtis
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Curtis McConnel
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 1:52 PM
To:
'JCZooM@iname.com'; Richard
Cc:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
I thought it wasn't good to run octane
boost.
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Christian
[mailto:jczoom_619@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 12:33
PM
To: Richard
Cc:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
Hi Richard,
Yes, I used some unleaded
race fuel at the DSM
Shootout. Can't say it really made a
difference,
although I came in second to Jack T. and second
to
Wong the following year.
I don't normally use any race fuel
(unleaded or
leaded) cause of the cost $$$$$. I usually add
octane
booster at road course events.
Be of good
cheer,
John
- --- Richard <
radanc@home.com> wrote:
> How many
out there use leaded race fuel without
> cats. Any other
>
considerations or worries re: use of this? I have
> generally stuck
with
> 103 unleaded, but was considering going to the C-12
> 4.4g
lead per gallon
> from VP mixed with pump. As an aside, anyone
>
interested in F-1 tickets
> e-mail me privately as I don't think I am
going to
> go this year.
>
> Rich
> 92 Stealth
TT
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 16:27:54
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
> Let me know if I'm wrong but I thought
someone mentioned not
> to use octane boost. I was thinking of using it
until I saw
> it can cause problems.
Its okay to use, but be aware
that when the bottle says "increases octane by
5 points!" that it is from
92.0 to 92.5 and not 92 to 97 octane, so you
don't want to be dumping it in
and running tons more boost thinking that it
is safe.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 17:27:20
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Leaded race fuel
What are the better brands to run? I would much
rather run this stuff than
$4.00 a gallon 102 octane. When it says adds 5
points, is that one bottle to
a full tank of gas and now your tank is 5
points higher? (91 + 5 = 96)In
this case should I run 2 bottles to reach
101?
Curtis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch,
Matt [mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001
3:28 PM
To: Curtis McConnel;
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
> Let me know if I'm wrong but I thought
someone mentioned not
> to use octane boost. I was thinking of using it
until I saw
> it can cause problems.
Its okay to use, but be aware
that when the bottle says "increases octane by
5 points!" that it is from
92.0 to 92.5 and not 92 to 97 octane, so you
don't want to be dumping it in
and running tons more boost thinking that it
is safe.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 16:35:59
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
Re-read my original message... The
answer was in there. 5 points = .5
octane, not 5.0 octane
improvement.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Curtis
McConnel [mailto:CMcConnel@Pulte.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 20,
2001 4:27 PM
> To: 'Jannusch, Matt';
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
>
> What are the better
brands to run? I would much rather run
> this stuff than $4.00 a gallon
102 octane. When it says adds
> 5 points, is that one bottle to a full
tank of gas and now
> your tank is 5 points higher? (91 + 5 = 96)In this
case
> should I run 2 bottles to reach 101?
>
> Curtis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch, Matt
[mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001
3:28 PM
> To: Curtis McConnel;
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
>
> Its okay to use, but be
aware that when the bottle says
> "increases octane by 5 points!" that it
is from 92.0 to 92.5
> and not 92 to 97 octane, so you don't want to be
dumping it
> in and running tons more boost thinking that it is
safe.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 15:25:15
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
Guys..IF you are on a racetrack, AND it
really matters to you, just mix
race gas & pump gas. its worth just
-knowing- youre OK.
On Thu, 20 Sep 2001, Curtis McConnel
wrote:
> What are the better brands to run? I would much rather run
this stuff than
> $4.00 a gallon 102 octane. When it says adds 5 points,
is that one bottle to
> a full tank of gas and now your tank is 5 points
higher? (91 + 5 = 96)In
> this case should I run 2 bottles to reach
101?
>
> Curtis
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jannusch, Matt
[mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001
3:28 PM
> To: Curtis McConnel;
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
>
> > Let me know if I'm
wrong but I thought someone mentioned not
> > to use octane boost. I
was thinking of using it until I saw
> > it can cause
problems.
>
> Its okay to use, but be aware that when the bottle
says "increases octane by
> 5 points!" that it is from 92.0 to 92.5 and
not 92 to 97 octane, so you
> don't want to be dumping it in and running
tons more boost thinking that it
> is safe.
>
> -Matt
>
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 18:28:00
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
>Sam: is
this something we could do ourselves by just drilling two small
>holes in
our own dipsticks? Andy
>
>
I guess that would work as long
as the holes were small enought that the
dipstick doesn't break in
half.
Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 18:32:12
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Boost levels
They don't. Most Supra guys I know use the
available "kits" and are told
what they need and just do it that way.
They dyno tune to get the best hp
curve (above 4000rpm LOL), and they make
sure they use race gas for anything
above 20-22psi. Fuel seems to be
the key in their motors, and they boost
really really high before you blow
them up.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, September 20, 2001 1:41 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost
levels
>As far as I have heard, the Supra owners have no way
to
>measure/detect knock (other than the standard aftermarket setups).
So
>how could they know if they have knock or not? Of course, the
same
>question can be asked of 1994 and later 3S
owners.
>
>Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Wednesday, September 19, 2001 9:04 PM
>Subject: Team3S: RE: Boost
levels
>
><snip>
>The Supra engine starts off with being
less detonation-prone than
our
>motor.
><snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 18:46:26
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Leaded race fuel
I run leaded (two gallons to 2 gallons of 94
Sunoco) every time I drag race
the car. It has nice white smoke coming
off the tail pipes like the old
days with my dads 69 Charger
R/T.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Cc: 'Jannusch,
Matt' <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>;
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, September 20, 2001 10:09 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Leaded race
fuel
>Guys..IF you are on a racetrack, AND it really matters to you,
just mix
>race gas & pump gas. its worth just -knowing- youre
OK.
>
>On Thu, 20 Sep 2001, Curtis McConnel
wrote:
>
>> What are the better brands to run? I would much
rather run this stuff
than
>> $4.00 a gallon 102 octane. When it
says adds 5 points, is that one bottle
to
>> a full tank of gas and
now your tank is 5 points higher? (91 + 5 = 96)In
>> this case should I
run 2 bottles to reach 101?
>>
>>
Curtis
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:
Jannusch, Matt [mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
>> Sent: Thursday,
September 20, 2001 3:28 PM
>> To: Curtis McConnel;
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
>>
>>
>> >
Let me know if I'm wrong but I thought someone mentioned not
>> > to
use octane boost. I was thinking of using it until I saw
>> > it can
cause problems.
>>
>> Its okay to use, but be aware that when
the bottle says "increases octane
by
>> 5 points!" that it is from
92.0 to 92.5 and not 92 to 97 octane, so you
>> don't want to be
dumping it in and running tons more boost thinking that
it
>> is
safe.
>>
>> -Matt
>> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 18:58:14
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Leaded race fuel
I see Octane Boost. All the time!
I
have probably averaged 1 bottle per month for the last three years, have not
seen any harm.
qtr mile, road courses, just use it to be safe with the cheap
gas being sold in California these days. I'm just a non-turbo, but 91 high
octane? C'mon folks get real.
And to think I used to work for
Chevron! they're still the best, but barely adequate these
days.
Kurrt / Skyrider
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Curtis McConnel [mailto:CMcConnel@Pulte.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 20,
2001 12:52 PM
To:
'JCZooM@iname.com';
Richard
Cc:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
I thought it wasn't good to run octane
boost.
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Christian
[mailto:jczoom_619@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 12:33
PM
To: Richard
Cc:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
Hi Richard,
Yes, I used some unleaded
race fuel at the DSM
Shootout. Can't say it really made a
difference,
although I came in second to Jack T. and second
to
Wong the following year.
I don't normally use any race fuel
(unleaded or
leaded) cause of the cost $$$$$. I usually add
octane
booster at road course events.
Be of good
cheer,
John
- --- Richard <
radanc@home.com> wrote:
> How many
out there use leaded race fuel without
> cats. Any other
>
considerations or worries re: use of this? I have
> generally stuck
with
> 103 unleaded, but was considering going to the C-12
> 4.4g
lead per gallon
> from VP mixed with pump. As an aside, anyone
>
interested in F-1 tickets
> e-mail me privately as I don't think I am
going to
> go this year.
>
> Rich
> 92 Stealth
TT
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 17:04:12
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
You do know..that O2 sensors never "clean"
themselves from the lead
deposits..and this does harm performance as thier
sensativity drops.
On Thu, 20 Sep 2001, Sam Shelat wrote:
> I
run leaded (two gallons to 2 gallons of 94 Sunoco) every time I drag
race
> the car. It has nice white smoke coming off the tail pipes
like the old
> days with my dads 69 Charger R/T.
>
>
>
Sam
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
To: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
> Cc:
'Jannusch, Matt' <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>;
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: Thursday, September 20, 2001 10:09 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Leaded
race fuel
>
> >Guys..IF you are on a racetrack, AND it really
matters to you, just mix
> >race gas & pump gas. its worth
just -knowing- youre OK.
> >
> >On Thu, 20 Sep 2001, Curtis
McConnel wrote:
> >
> >> What are the better brands to run?
I would much rather run this stuff
> than
> >> $4.00 a gallon
102 octane. When it says adds 5 points, is that one bottle
> to
>
>> a full tank of gas and now your tank is 5 points higher? (91 + 5 =
96)In
> >> this case should I run 2 bottles to reach 101?
>
>>
> >> Curtis
> >>
> >> -----Original
Message-----
> >> From: Jannusch, Matt
[mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> >> Sent: Thursday, September
20, 2001 3:28 PM
> >> To: Curtis McConnel;
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>> Subject: RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
> >>
>
>>
> >> > Let me know if I'm wrong but I thought someone
mentioned not
> >> > to use octane boost. I was thinking of using
it until I saw
> >> > it can cause problems.
>
>>
> >> Its okay to use, but be aware that when the bottle
says "increases octane
> by
> >> 5 points!" that it is from
92.0 to 92.5 and not 92 to 97 octane, so you
> >> don't want to be
dumping it in and running tons more boost thinking that
> it
>
>> is safe.
> >>
> >> -Matt
> >> '95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 19:55:53
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Rotor Warpage?
Hi everyone. I have a one and a half hour
drive to work every day and to
make the drive a little shorter, I drive
about 110+mph for the last half an
hour (deserted highways). Every
once in a while i need to use the brakes to
slow down instead of the
engine. Sometimes after heavy braking, my steering
wheel shakes as if
my rotors were warped.
The srtange thing is, after my rotors cool
down, they're fine. Are my rotors
expanding due to the high
heat? Why? I have PF Cryo Rotors. I was under
the
impression this would help with expansion and breaking.
Thanks,
Paul
Butkiewicz
Diablo Enterprises
Norwood, MA 02062-4012
Phone/Fax
(781) 769-4180
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 19:38:26
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gas mileage vs Mods
I have a 96 NT. I usually get 23-25 mpg
when just driving normally.
ie, to work < 80mph on somewhat windy road,
little to no freeway driving, around town and not burning rubber. Maybe a squeak
now and then.
I have a home built ram-air kit, 3in cat and 3in muffler
and pipes. After adding the exhaust system, my normal mileage dropped 1-2
mpg. Not much, but consistently lower.
However, I occaisionally would
quiet down my exhaust by adding back pressurre plates, ie, tin or aluminum can
sections punched with holes and pinned into the tail pipe. This was only
really for freeway driving, where it seems I get stuck at just the wrong rpm
much of the time, and get exhaust resonance under load. Luckily I do not do much
extended driving.
Anyhewww.. I decided to take a trip from Riverside to
Lake Havasu, and was taking two passengers, so decided to really baffle the
thing up to avoid complaints. Wow, I could hardly get any power, or so it
seemed, but my fuel mileage went over 30 mpg! And that was driving
Interstate and two lane highways at mostly 80 mph plus. Three people and any
spare room stuffed with whatever.
So 'Yes Virginia', mods do affect
mileage. Now with the turbo, you already have a fair ammount of backpressure, so
it might not apply as well, but having sufficient backpressure does affect
mileage. Not that I care, anything over 20 is gravy to me, I'd rather have the
power.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From:
cody [mailto:overclck@starband.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 10:15
AM
To: 'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Poor Gas mileage and getting
worse
I have disputed the following statement before, and would like a
few
more opinions on it. Gas mileage should not be affected by
most
performance items such as high flow cats, downpipes, free-flow
exhaust,
air filters, etc. etc. This is my theory at least, because no
matter
what mods you do, the amount of air, and thus fuel at whatever RPM
is
limited more by your own foot (which is connected to the throttle
body),
rather than what mods you have. Sure, if one mod causes you to
run rich
/ lean, I can see the MPG difference, or if you change your
driving
style because you now have more power at the same throttle position
now,
but overall, shouldn't most mods keep approximately the same MPG???
>>The mods you've made allow max airflow,
>>more airflow
= more fuel needed at same rpm = lower mpg.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 17:16:50
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rotor Warpage?
How long have you had them?
On Thu, 20
Sep 2001
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
wrote:
> Hi everyone. I have a one and a half hour drive to work
every day and to
> make the drive a little shorter, I drive about 110+mph
for the last half an
> hour (deserted highways). Every once in a
while i need to use the brakes to
> slow down instead of the
engine. Sometimes after heavy braking, my steering
> wheel shakes
as if my rotors were warped.
> The srtange thing is, after my
rotors cool down, they're fine. Are my rotors
> expanding due to
the high heat? Why? I have PF Cryo Rotors. I was under
> the impression this would help with expansion and breaking.
>
Thanks,
>
> Paul Butkiewicz
> Diablo Enterprises
>
Norwood, MA 02062-4012
> Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
>
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/>
http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 20:05:16
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Rotor Warpage?
> How long have you had them?
Hmm... I'd
say about a year to a year and a half. They've never been turned
since
I've never had permanant warpage. Is this expected for rotors this old
that have never been turned? I guess it's just time for some good 5
spoke
rims, dust shield removal, and ducting to cool my
brakes....
Paul Butkiewicz
Diablo Enterprises
Norwood, MA
02062-4012
Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 17:26:44
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rotor Warpage?
Probly wont hurt. Cryo helps resist
warping, but doesnt prevent it.
they are returning to normal. Might
be a good idea to get em shaved and
trued, thats solved everyone elses
problem for the most part.
On Thu, 20 Sep 2001
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
wrote:
> > How long have you had them?
>
> Hmm... I'd
say about a year to a year and a half. They've never been turned
>
since I've never had permanant warpage. Is this expected for rotors this
old
> that have never been turned? I guess it's just time for some
good 5 spoke
> rims, dust shield removal, and ducting to cool my
brakes....
>
> Paul Butkiewicz
> Diablo Enterprises
>
Norwood, MA 02062-4012
> Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
>
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/>
http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 19:17:55
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gas mileage vs Mods
Yes, but are you sure that the back
pressure is not affecting the way
you drive - i.e. you have to rev higher to
get the standard acceleration
from your car???
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Zobel, Kurt
Sent: Thursday,
September 20, 2001 6:38 PM
To: cody; 'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gas
mileage vs Mods
I have a 96 NT. I usually get 23-25 mpg when just
driving normally.
ie, to work < 80mph on somewhat windy road, little to no
freeway
driving, around town and not burning rubber. Maybe a squeak now
and
then.
I have a home built ram-air kit, 3in cat and 3in muffler
and pipes.
After adding the exhaust system, my normal mileage dropped 1-2
mpg. Not
much, but consistently lower.
However, I occaisionally would
quiet down my exhaust by adding back
pressurre plates, ie, tin or aluminum
can sections punched with holes
and pinned into the tail pipe. This was
only really for freeway
driving, where it seems I get stuck at just the wrong
rpm much of the
time, and get exhaust resonance under load. Luckily I do not
do much
extended driving.
Anyhewww.. I decided to take a trip from
Riverside to Lake Havasu, and
was taking two passengers, so decided to really
baffle the thing up to
avoid complaints. Wow, I could hardly get any
power, or so it seemed,
but my fuel mileage went over 30 mpg! And that
was driving Interstate
and two lane highways at mostly 80 mph plus. Three
people and any spare
room stuffed with whatever.
So 'Yes Virginia',
mods do affect mileage. Now with the turbo, you
already have a fair ammount
of backpressure, so it might not apply as
well, but having sufficient
backpressure does affect mileage. Not that I
care, anything over 20 is gravy
to me, I'd rather have the power.
Kurt
-
-----Original Message-----
From: cody [mailto:overclck@starband.net]
Sent:
Thursday, September 20, 2001 10:15 AM
To: 'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Poor Gas mileage and getting worse
I have disputed the following
statement before, and would like a few
more opinions on it. Gas mileage
should not be affected by most
performance items such as high flow cats,
downpipes, free-flow exhaust,
air filters, etc. etc. This is my theory
at least, because no matter
what mods you do, the amount of air, and thus
fuel at whatever RPM is
limited more by your own foot (which is connected to
the throttle body),
rather than what mods you have. Sure, if one mod
causes you to run rich
/ lean, I can see the MPG difference, or if you change
your driving
style because you now have more power at the same throttle
position now,
but overall, shouldn't most mods keep approximately the same
MPG???
>>The mods you've made allow max airflow,
>>more
airflow = more fuel needed at same rpm = lower mpg.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 17:28:06
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
backing plate --- AWD
All right boys and girls, any tricks to removing
the E-brake backing plate on
the rear of an AWD car. I've removed the rotor,
axle shaft, misc brake parts,
two bolts on the backing plate and dust shield
and the nut that holds the brake
shoe pivot but the plate doesn't want to
move. The book says nothing but I
can't see anything else holding it in
place.
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 18:22:36
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
backing plate --- AWD
Disreguard previous message --- I got the plate
off, I had to disconnect the
brake line and use a little brute
force.
Jim
berry
======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
> All right
boys and girls, any tricks to removing the E-brake backing plate on
> the
rear of an AWD car. I've removed the rotor, axle shaft, misc brake
parts,
> two bolts on the backing plate and dust shield and the nut that
holds the brake
> shoe pivot but the plate doesn't want to move. The book
says nothing but I
> can't see anything else holding it in
place.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 19:35:47
-0700
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Leaded race fuel
also the boosters use a variety of methods to increase
octane, many
using alcohol. In the end race gas is better and more
cost-effective
since a small bottle of 108 costs at least $6-9 for ounces of
booster.
No matter what way you cut it end octane = octane rating using
whatever
method you choose with volume and octane rating of booster or race
gas
with volume added. 1 gallon of 103 race gas is around $5. You can't
get
that with boosters and you aren't getting a lean mixture with methyl
or
whatever alcohol or organic they choose to use in the
boosters.
Rich
92 Stealth TT
Curtis McConnel wrote:
>
> What are the better brands to run? I would much rather run this stuff
than
> $4.00 a gallon 102 octane. When it says adds 5 points, is that one
bottle to
> a full tank of gas and now your tank is 5 points higher? (91 +
5 = 96)In
> this case should I run 2 bottles to reach 101?
>
> Curtis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Jannusch, Matt [mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Thursday,
September 20, 2001 3:28 PM
> To: Curtis McConnel;
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
>
> > Let me know if I'm
wrong but I thought someone mentioned not
> > to use octane boost. I
was thinking of using it until I saw
> > it can cause problems.
>
> Its okay to use, but be aware that when the bottle says "increases
octane by
> 5 points!" that it is from 92.0 to 92.5 and not 92 to 97
octane, so you
> don't want to be dumping it in and running tons more
boost thinking that it
> is safe.
>
> -Matt
> '95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 02:41:07
+0000
From: "Magnus3315 ." <
black_synn666@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Hatchback Floor/Board
<html><div
style='background-color:'><DIV>I have a old 91 3000gt vr-4. I was
wondering if anyone else had to replace the floor/mat piece for the hatchbackk,
Like the wood piece. Anyone make one or have any suggestions how to make one?
Also does the left side under it have a plastic bin like the right? I don't
know, mine doesn't, so I was
checking.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thnx,
Amar.</DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE
download of MSN Explorer at <a
href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag_itl_EN.asp'>http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></html>
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 19:58:32
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hatchback Floor/Board
You can make one with...wood.
On
Fri, 21 Sep 2001, Magnus3315 . wrote:
> I have a old 91 3000gt vr-4. I
was wondering if anyone else had to
> replace the floor/mat piece for the
hatchbackk, Like the wood piece.
> Anyone make one or have any suggestions
how to make one? Also does the
> left side under it have a plastic bin
like the right? I don't know, mine
> doesn't, so I was
checking.
>
> Thnx, Amar.
* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 20:28:42
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: EGT temps revisited
What are people getting for EGT temps while
cruising at say...70mph and
5th(5spd) with your fuel controllers set to
stoich.
The reason that I'm asking is that I'm seeing high EGTs at WOT
and I'm
wondering if there is some kind of offset in my setup that would
cause them
to read high.
When I'm cruising, as above, I'm getting
EGTs around 1430F(stoich) and it
will drop to ~1270 at an O2 of .94 then
starts to stumble(because too rich.)
Drag racing, I will see peak temps
of between 1800 and 1850 while still
getting O2 readings of .94-.96v. If I
go one click rich on the high setting
of my arc2, I can get the temps to
drop to ~1775F and O2 readings are
.96-.98 on my logger.
- -I'm
running 18psi with 110 leaded.
- -Stock Engine
- -Stock Exhaust less
cats
- -15Gs, 550RCs, ARC2, TMO
- -Autometer EGT probes in the front and
back with fluke temp module plugged
into a fluke 87 DMM
- -Probes located
just before flange to turbo in manifolds.
- -Stock plugs gapped at
.034
Car is running good with little or no knock. I will get knock(up to
14count)
if I increase boost from this point without adding more fuel
though...surprising with 110 race gas, I think.
I just think that my
cruising(at stoich) readings are high because of some
kind of offset that
I'm seeing...resulting in high EGTs on the high end as
well.
Is it
safe to say that if I'm not running lean and have no knock that EGTs
are
safe regardless of my readings?
Thanks,
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
(
12.38@118mph, Sept 01 RockFalls,
WI)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 19:34:17
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: backing plate --- AWD
Sorry, but I can't undo a tin snip mod,
besides the backing plate is steel.
I'm looking at putting the stock front 4
piston rotors/calipers on the rear
and if it doesn't work I gotta put it back
together. With the exception of
the E-brake it doesn't look to bad.
If
it works I could have four wheel carbon/carbon setup for a mere
$3400 ----
yeah right, like that's gonna
happen.
Jim
berry
========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Thursday, September 20, 2001 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: 3S-Racers: backing plate
--- AWD
> The universal tool.
>
> Tin snips.
>
> On Thu, 20 Sep 2001, Jim Berry wrote:
>
> > All right
boys and girls, any tricks to removing the E-brake backing plate on
>
> the rear of an AWD car. I've removed the rotor, axle shaft, misc brake
parts,
> > two bolts on the backing plate and dust shield and the nut
that holds the brake
> > shoe pivot but the plate doesn't want to move.
The book says nothing but I
> > can't see anything else holding it in
place.
> >
>
> Jim Berry
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 23:06:30
-0400
From: MIHAI RAICU <
aa2345@WAYNE.EDU>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Poor Gas mileage and getting worse
The best gas mileage I have
personally seen is 27.2 mpg on my
brothers 94 TT. This was on a long
highway trip (California -
- -> Michigan) without Air Conditioning, 6th
gear, and 80 mph
cruise control straight for a full gas tank, on level
ground. 25 mpg was obtained with the exact same conditions
except
he used A/C. Keep in mind, that he never went into
the boost zone for
2 gas tanks. He also never switched
gears. Talk about a boring
test, however he did it. When he
was driving his usual, he got 16 mpg,
for the remainer of the
trip.
On long highway trips I usually get 20
mpg on my 95 VR4.
This is with A/C, and going 90-110, with occasional
higher
bursts and/or playing with a few Vettes/etc.
Combination
city/highway I get 16 mpg.
Keep in mind that the TT and VR4 have a few
mods (AVC-R boost
14.7 psi, K&N), however, these di not affect my
brother's
test.
On the 93 Stealth (base, 5 speed) I get 19 mpg
combination
city/highway. Darn, that's a lot of gas for an N/A
3S. I
never did a pure highway trip on this car to see the true
highway mpg.
- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4
93 Red Base Stealth (5
speed)
94 Pearl Yellow TT (my brother John's)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001
11:51:40 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Poor Gas mileage and getting worse
29-32mpg highway, sorry to
say, sounds impossible. Even with
my boost turned
down to 6psi and
in 6th gear, I can't pull any more than 24-
25mpg on the
highway.
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White R/T TT
Greg Gonzales wrote:
> Over the past 8 months my gas mileage has gone done from
about
18 mpg to
> just under 16. I am not driving the car any harder than
usual or taking a
> different route. My highway mileage has gone way
down too
from about 29-32
> to about 25mpg.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 23:31:16
-0400
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 1991 3000 GT VR-4
Since I used to live in Hawaii, I'm partial
to
http://www.hawaiianseatcovers.com
For some reason, they list options for
Stealths, but not 3000GT. Dunno
why...
For headlights, Hella used to make a reflector housing for H1
bulbs, that
fits our pop-up headlight assembly. Makes a world of
difference. I don't
think they still make it, though, cuz' I can't find
them anywhere on the
net.
(If anyone has a source, please let me
know. One of my lenses caught a rock
and has a hole in it. Wonder
of wonders, the bulb still burns bright, and
the broken glass hasn't ruined
the light pattern too much.)
12-volt thingy, no idea.
Please,
forget "cheap": you have price options for wheels, but cheap wheels
will give
cheap performance. Same is true for a lot of mods you can do on
these
cars. (There are exceptions, and some of our experts will gladly
point
them out.)
Hope this helps.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Magnus3315 .
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSent:
Thursday, September 20, 2001 5:23 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: 1991 3000 GT
VR-4
These are just some questions I had about my 3000 GT VR-4.
1)
What are some good seat covers?
2) How do you replace the head lights with
better ones? Like piaa ones,
remember it's 1991, sooo.. the 9006 Piaa ones
don't fit.
3) How do you fix the little 12 volt plug in thing
there?
4) what are some good wheels that are cheap?
5) Any advice,
this is my first car. All experience welcome.
Thanks,
Amar.
>From: Curtis McConnel
>To: "
'JCZooM@iname.com'" , Richard
>CC:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
>Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 15:51:44
-0400
>
>I thought it wasn't good to run octane
boost.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: John Christian
[mailto:jczoom_619@yahoo.com]
>Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 12:33
PM
>To: Richard
>Cc:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
>
>Hi Richard,
>
>Yes, I
used some unleaded race fuel at the DSM
>Shootout. Can't say it really
made a difference,
>although I came in second to Jack T. and second
to
>Wong the following year.
>
>I don't normally use any race
fuel (unleaded or
>leaded) cause of the cost $$$$$. I usually add
octane
>booster at road course events.
>
>Be of good
cheer,
>John
>
>--- Richard wrote:
> > How many out
there use leaded race fuel without
> > cats. Any other
> >
considerations or worries re: use of this? I have
> > generally stuck
with
> > 103 unleaded, but was considering going to the C-12
>
> 4.4g lead per gallon
> > from VP mixed with pump. As an aside,
anyone
> > interested in F-1 tickets
> > e-mail me privately
as I don't think I am going to
> > go this year.
> >
>
> Rich
> > 92 Stealth TT
>Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com>'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
>12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost
stock
>http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#619
***************************************
Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, September 21 2001
Volume 01 : Number
620
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 Sep 2001 23:31:40 -0400
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hatchback Floor/Board
My Stealth has the bins on both
sides. But since mine isn't a turbo, there
may be some
differences. Some folks have removed their bins to install
stereo
equipment, maybe someone will sell/give you their spares.
As for the
other half of your request, do you need the carpet or just the
board?
If you have access to a jigsaw and some plywood, you could cut your
own
board. If I can find a big enough piece of paper I can trace a
template
for you. (This might not fit exactly right if there are
differences between
a turbo and non-turbo trunk space.) If you need the
carpet AND board, I'd
recommend talking to a car interior shop and see what
they recommend.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Magnus3315 .
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSent:
Thursday, September 20, 2001 10:41 PM
Subject: Team3S: Hatchback
Floor/Board
I have a old 91 3000gt vr-4. I was wondering if anyone else
had to replace
the floor/mat piece for the hatchbackk, Like the wood piece.
Anyone make one
or have any suggestions how to make one? Also does the left
side under it
have a plastic bin like the right? I don't know, mine doesn't,
so I was
checking.
Thnx, Amar.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 23:32:58
-0400
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Poor Gas mileage and getting worse
OK, I'll add my 2hp to
this data call:
Normally 23-25 MPG, northern Virginia traffic, don't
jackrabbit too much.
Highway runs through West Virginia terrain, 75-80 mph,
25-26 MPG
Once got 32 MPG on a run from Indy to Chicago, but usually 26-28
MPG on flat
runs.
Worst I ever got was 19 MPG, that was while stuck in
Chicago traffic for 2
hours.
IMO, I'm not a particularly aggressive
driver. I like to WOT when it makes
sense, but I'm not the type to
slice and dice through traffic.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES, N/A, no
mods (except the headlights, and they don't count)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 20:17:25
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Sears Point NASA event --- Oct 27/28
I going to try this one again ---
tha last one kinda got caught up in the
terrorist attack.
I'm trying
to drum up interest in the Sears Point event --- I'm not real
keen on the
abreviated track layout but a couple of our members have
tried it and said it
was OK.
End of October should be nice and cool and we have a month and
a
half to get a good turnout.
I had a good time at Thunderhill and I'd
like to meet some of you folks
again ---- Jim, buy a damn car will
you.
http://www.nasaproracing.com/typ_html_nav.asp?ObjectID=6128***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 20:54:00
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Sears Point NASA event --- Oct 27/28
My wife and I will be
there.
Bob: I got cher battery.
On Thu, 20 Sep 2001, Jim
Berry wrote:
> I going to try this one again --- tha last one kinda
got caught up in the
> terrorist attack.
>
> I'm trying to
drum up interest in the Sears Point event --- I'm not real
> keen on the
abreviated track layout but a couple of our members have
> tried it and
said it was OK.
>
> End of October should be nice and cool and we
have a month and a
> half to get a good turnout.
>
> I had a
good time at Thunderhill and I'd like to meet some of you folks
> again
---- Jim, buy a damn car will you.
>
>
http://www.nasaproracing.com/typ_html_nav.asp?ObjectID=6128* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 23:47:55
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: FW:
Team3S: 1991 3000 GT VR-4
> 1) What are some good seat
covers?
Good point. Most people with the leather seats keep them
leather. Looks
nice and feels good. I have only seen one or two
seat covers on the cloth
cars and can find pics of them if
needed.
> 2) How do you replace the head lights with better ones? Like
piaa ones,
> remember it's 1991, sooo.. the 9006 Piaa ones don't
fit.
We just had this on the list. I'm not sure it is in the
archives yet. I
think the result was that higher wattage lights (if you
can afford the PIAA
ones) are over 85 watts for headlights and over 55 watts
for driving lights
and that starts to fry the OEM wiring harness and fuse
box. However,
drop-ins are also not recommended sometimes. I have
seen cars with lights
so it doesn't kill it right away but maybe long term
things are not horrible
either.
> 3) How do you fix the little 12
volt plug in thing there?
You mean the power outlet next to the change
tray/cruise control/Active Aero
button or the cigarette lighter one? I
had my car in the shop and they
fixed the power outlet one. Simple
wiring stuff I guess.
> 4) what are some good wheels that are
cheap?
None. Wheels have to be strong enough (forged or cast I
believe) to hold a
4,000 pound car. This makes them not cheap.
Then they are only 17" or 18"
which makes them not cheap. Chrome
plating or powder coating or aluminum
coating, etc. makes them not
cheap. I think
www.800wheels.com is
a good
place to start. At least they have our OEM wheels. Others
have aftermarket
ones but be careful to make sure they can withstand the
weight of our cars.
I can provide links to Gatherings with pictures of wheels
if necessary.
> 5) Any advice, this is my first car. All experience
welcome.
Congrats and welcome. One website I just saw said,
"Imagine starting the
commute every day with a countdown." I still
remember my first drive in the
car. It was seriously like counting down
on a roller coaster. Just sit
back, watch the list, then post some
simple questions (remember to make the
subject pertain to the topic
too). Enjoy one of the best cars ever made.
Don't forget to shift
GINGERLY from first to second and second to third or
you will also be
replacing your first transmission at about $5,000.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 00:16:23
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rotor Warpage?
True that solves the problem for "short" time
(each person's duration here
is different though) but it WILL return.
Mine were put on after turning and
the next stop from about 80 mph gave me
the same warped feeling. Yes they
were fine below 40 mph but who drives
this speed approaching the end of the
front straight?
I have not found
anyone yet or has never had the warping return. I think
our friend up
in Seattle is our last hope (he had all four corners of PF
cryo rotors and
new pads but first stop they warped but he used them for a
driving event
anyway). I'll be interested in seeing if these worked or the
guy who
asked PF for an exchange since they were about 0.02" out of true.
Cooling
does not help when the first stop after re-installing the
freshly-turned
rotors is from 60 mph. Nobody in the world should have their
rotors
thump-thump at this speed. That's why I will put the $40 per
rotor
charge for cryo-treating toward another set of rotors or pads next
time. At
least, until someone gets no warping.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff
Mohler
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 8:27 PM
Probly wont
hurt. Cryo helps resist warping, but doesnt prevent it.
they are
returning to normal. Might be a good idea to get em shaved and
trued,
thats solved everyone elses problem for the most part.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 00:18:36
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rotor Warpage?
Although as a follow up I think it might have
partially been my fault the
first time in not cooling them correctly (letting
the car sit too long after
a cool down lap) since the first time they were
turned they had "spider"
cracks in the surface which most likely went all the
way through the rotor.
You could not feel this when you rubbed your finger
along the surface but
your fingernail would catch the edge of the small
cracks. If your rotors do
not look like this but are warped then get
them turned and cross your
fingers. If they look like a record player
then just get them turned.
Those might not be the "heat cracking" that does
in the rotor.
- --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 00:32:59
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Hatchback Floor/Board
Heh. Lucky me I have a full-size
spare back here so I can't use my
wood/carpet piece and the bind are not much
use when carting around a 2-ton
floor jack and toolbag.
Amar (or
anyone else) if you want this then let me know. I can also trace
it for
anyone. Lemme know (off list). I don't know how much
difference
there is between the first and second gen though. Not much I
imagine.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Dennis and Anita Moore
Sent: Thursday, September 20,
2001 11:32 PM
My Stealth has the bins on both sides. But since mine
isn't a turbo, there
may be some differences. Some folks have removed
their bins to install
stereo equipment, maybe someone will sell/give you
their spares.
As for the other half of your request, do you need the
carpet or just the
board? If you have access to a jigsaw and some
plywood, you could cut your
own board. If I can find a big enough piece
of paper I can trace a template
for you. (This might not fit exactly
right if there are differences between
a turbo and non-turbo trunk
space.) If you need the carpet AND board, I'd
recommend talking to a
car interior shop and see what they recommend.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth
ES
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Magnus3315 .
Sent:
Thursday, September 20, 2001 10:41 PM
I have a old 91 3000gt vr-4. I was
wondering if anyone else had to replace
the floor/mat piece for the
hatchbackk, Like the wood piece. Anyone make one
or have any suggestions how
to make one? Also does the left side under it
have a plastic bin like the
right? I don't know, mine doesn't, so I was
checking.
Thnx,
Amar.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 21:53:04
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Sears Point NASA event --- Oct 27/28
We'll be there.
And if we have enough of a turnout, I'll get us set up on
the NASA schedule
with a Team3S parade lap (or better). This way, even
folks who just
came to watch can get out and have a run around the track.
I'll add to the CC
list above and let all on the west coast know about it--
Bay Area - Southland
- PNW contingents. I'd love for this to be a major
showing. And
with the shortened track, even the NT drivers can have a good
time.
Sears Point is a great course, and one where AWD turbos can really
show their
stuff around the twisties!
Stay on it guys - we can have quite a
gathering at this one!
Best,
Forrest
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
>
My wife and I will be there.
>
> On Thu, 20 Sep 2001, Jim Berry
wrote:
>
> > I going to try this one again --- tha last one kinda
got caught up in
the
> > terrorist attack.
> >
> >
I'm trying to drum up interest in the Sears Point event --- I'm not real
>
> keen on the abreviated track layout but a couple of our members
have
> > tried it and said it was OK.
> >
> > End of
October should be nice and cool and we have a month and a
> > half to
get a good turnout.
> >
> > I had a good time at Thunderhill
and I'd like to meet some of you folks
> > again ---- Jim, buy a damn
car will you.
> >
> >
http://www.nasaproracing.com/typ_html_nav.asp?ObjectID=6128***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 07:25:03
-0400
From: "Andie W. Lin" <
andiewlin@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #619
If by "PF" you mean Performance
Friction/Pinnacle Brake Technology, then you
have, perhaps, the highest
quality rotors available on the aftermarket for
street use.
There are
the types of rotor warpage. One type is what I call "cold
warpage" and
the other is "hot ghost warpage". Cold warpage is a permanent
warpage
which you will feel at all speeds and temperatures - it is typically
the
result of poor casting and quality control. Since you are
only
experiencing a brake shudder when the rotors are hot/heated up after a
hard
brake application, and since PF has incredible quality control on
their
rotors, you do not have "cold warpage". "Hot ghost warpage"
becomes evident
only when the rotors reach a certain temperature, such as
when they become
hot after hard braking; it results from uneven heating and
cooling during
the heat tempering process and/or the final cryogenic
treatment of the
rotor. This type of warpage in the rotor is NOT
evident when they are
cold - you can literally put the rotor on a lathe with
a feeler gauge at
room temperature, and it will spin true...but heat it up to
some arbitrary
temperature, say, 500deg, and the warping becomes
evident.
Now, there is a third cause of brake shudder, which is NOT
caused by a
warped rotor, but can often lead many to believe that their
rotors are
warped. This third cause is "friction material film
transfer", which is
essentially the irregular, non-uniform
deposition/transfer of brake friction
material onto the rotor surface.
All high-performance compounds exhibit
this phenomenon to a certain extent at
various temperatures, with some
compounds being very hard offenders,
indeed. When the brake friction
material is deposited or smeared onto
the rotor surface in an inrregular
pattern, upon application of the brakes,
the brake pad will
"grab-and-release" on the film transfers due to chemical
adhesion, resulting
in a brake shudder, and thus simulating what is often
assumed to be a warped
rotor.
Thus, I have to ask...what brake
compound are you using?
andie w lin
vp marketing and product
r&d
carbotech engineering
http://www.carbotecheng.comtel:
877.899.5024 | fax: 954.493.9669
::-----Original Message-----
::Date:
Thu, 20 Sep 2001 19:55:53 EDT
::From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com::Subject:
Team3S: Rotor Warpage?
::
::expanding due to the high heat?
Why? I have PF Cryo Rotors. I
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 21:38:43
+1000
From: "Joel Singh" <
joelsingh@iprimus.com.au>
Subject:
Team3S: Stalling problem
lately my car keeps stalling at idle, whenever I
pull up at the lights or
stop anywhere it stalls.
Would anyone know what
the problem could be. I haven't had the car for
long, it is a japanese
imported
GTO Twin turbo, 1992, manual. When driving it does not miss. drives
fine,
except at idle it stalls.
Any advice would be highly
appreciated,
Joel. From downunder.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 08:34:45
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
I am using the stuff that costs a buck at
O'Reilly's. I am only putting in
1 bottle, but then again, in Texas we
have 93 octane anyhow.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Curtis McConnel [SMTP:CMcConnel@Pulte.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 20,
2001 4:27 PM
> To: 'Jannusch, Matt';
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
>
> What are the better
brands to run? I would much rather run this stuff than
> $4.00 a gallon
102 octane. When it says adds 5 points, is that one bottle
> to
> a
full tank of gas and now your tank is 5 points higher? (91 + 5 = 96)In
>
this case should I run 2 bottles to reach 101?
>
> Curtis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch, Matt
[mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001
3:28 PM
> To: Curtis McConnel;
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
>
>
> > Let me know
if I'm wrong but I thought someone mentioned not
> > to use octane
boost. I was thinking of using it until I saw
> > it can cause
problems.
>
> Its okay to use, but be aware that when the bottle
says "increases octane
> by
> 5 points!" that it is from 92.0 to
92.5 and not 92 to 97 octane, so you
> don't want to be dumping it in and
running tons more boost thinking that
> it
> is safe.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 08:44:59
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hatchback Floor/Board
somebody probably cutout the left bin
to install an amplifier. That's what
they did to mine. The "Wood piece"
is acutally fiberboard.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Magnus3315 . [SMTP:black_synn666@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September
20, 2001 9:41 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Hatchback Floor/Board
>
> I have a old 91 3000gt
vr-4. I was wondering if anyone else had to replace
> the floor/mat piece
for the hatchbackk, Like the wood piece. Anyone make
> one or have any
suggestions how to make one? Also does the left side under
> it have a
plastic bin like the right? I don't know, mine doesn't, so I was
>
checking.
>
> Thnx, Amar.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 08:46:29
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: backing plate --- AWD
Way to go Jim! Are
the stock fronts going on a 1st gen or 2nd gen VR4?
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Berry
[SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 9:34
PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
3sracers@speedtoys.com> Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: backing plate --- AWD
>
> Sorry, but I can't
undo a tin snip mod, besides the backing plate is
> steel.
> I'm
looking at putting the stock front 4 piston rotors/calipers on the
>
rear
> and if it doesn't work I gotta put it back together. With the
exception of
> the E-brake it doesn't look to bad.
>
> If it
works I could have four wheel carbon/carbon setup for a mere
> $3400 ----
yeah right, like that's gonna happen.
>
> Jim berry
>
========================================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
To: <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 7:32 PM
> Subject: Re: 3S-Racers:
backing plate --- AWD
>
> > The universal tool.
> >
> > Tin snips.
> >
> > On Thu, 20 Sep 2001, Jim
Berry wrote:
> >
> > > All right boys and girls, any
tricks to removing the E-brake backing
> plate on
> > > the
rear of an AWD car. I've removed the rotor, axle shaft, misc brake
>
parts,
> > > two bolts on the backing plate and dust shield and the
nut that holds
> the brake
> > > shoe pivot but the plate
doesn't want to move. The book says nothing
> but I
> > >
can't see anything else holding it in place.
> > >
> >
> Jim Berry
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 08:34:43
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
Team3S: O2 Sensor volt. found
For those interested I found the info on
the voltage range for the rear O2
sensors to set a code on the Cali and 96+
cars. It is on page 13a-30 and
13a-31 of the CD manual.
Francis
'96
RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 06:41:59
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1991 3000 GT VR-4
Some answers:
2) Autopal makes a
replacement headlight that uses a replaceable H4
bulb.
http://www.autooptiks.com/3) The
front one just pops out (whole plastic piece). The back one
near the floor
console storage box is bolted in (if I remember
correctly). For the back one
you will have to take the side covers
off (I think).
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius6/j6-2-floorconsole.htm4)
Cheapest good wheels for our cars might be Enkei RP01 in 17x9 at
$176 each at
Discount Tire ($205 in 18x9). The stock ones are not
cheap. Look at page 981
in the Mitchell Guide below. In fact, my
forged SSR GT1 18x9x38mm wheels are
cheaper than the list price for
stock TT/VR4 wheels.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/blucius/b-2-mitchell.htm5)
Look through the web sites devoted to our cars. I list hundreds of
them on
the giant Links and Garage Pages at my web site (which you
will also find
partially duplicated by some Team3S members). The
Team3S FAQ page is a good
place to start.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/1-links-t.htmhttp://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/1-repair.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: Magnus3315 .
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st Sent:
Thursday, September 20, 2001 3:23 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: 1991 3000 GT
VR-4
These are just some questions I had about my 3000 GT VR-4.
1)
What are some good seat covers?
2) How do you replace the head lights with
better ones? Like piaa
ones, remember it's 1991, sooo.. the 9006 Piaa ones
don't fit.
3) How do you fix the little 12 volt plug in thing there?
4)
what are some good wheels that are cheap?
5) Any advice, this is my first
car. All experience welcome.
Thanks, Amar.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 08:59:21
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stalling problem
look for a vacuum leak in the intake, but
problem sounds mostly like a bad
Idle Servo Controller (ISC). Does this
happen only when the A/C is turned
on? The idle speed is supposed to
increas when the A/C is on.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Joel Singh [SMTP:joelsingh@iprimus.com.au]
> Sent: Friday, September 21,
2001 6:39 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Stalling problem
>
> lately my car keeps stalling
at idle, whenever I pull up at the lights or
> stop anywhere it
stalls.
> Would anyone know what the problem could be. I haven't had
the car for
> long, it is a japanese imported
> GTO Twin turbo,
1992, manual. When driving it does not miss. drives fine,
> except at idle
it stalls.
> Any advice would be highly appreciated,
>
>
Joel. From downunder.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 10:14:21
-0400
From: "Andie W. Lin" <
andiewlin@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rotor Warpage?
If by "PF" you mean Performance Friction/Pinnacle
Brake Technology, then you
have, perhaps, the highest quality rotors
available on the aftermarket for
street use.
There are three types of
rotor warpage:
One type is what I call "cold warpage" and the other is
"hot ghost warpage".
Cold warpage is a permanent warpage which you will feel
at all speeds and
temperatures - it is typically the result of poor casting
and quality
control. Since you are only experiencing a brake shudder
when the rotors
are hot/heated up after a hard brake application, and since
PF has
incredible quality control on their rotors, you do not have "cold
warpage".
"Hot ghost warpage" becomes evident only when the rotors reach a
certain
temperature, such as when they become hot after hard braking; it
results
from uneven heating and cooling during the heat tempering process
and/or the
final cryogenic treatment of the rotor. This type of warpage
in the rotor
is NOT evident when they are cold - you can literally put the
rotor on a
lathe with a feeler gauge at room temperature, and it will spin
true...but
heat it up to some arbitrary temperature, say, 500deg, and the
warping
becomes evident.
Now, there is a third cause of brake shudder,
which is NOT caused by a
warped rotor, but can often lead many to believe
that their rotors are
warped. This third cause is known as "friction
material film transfer" or
"friction material smearing", which is essentially
the irregular,
non-uniform deposition/transfer of brake friction material
onto the rotor
surface. All high-performance compounds exhibit this
phenomenon to a
certain extent at various temperatures, with some compounds
being very hard
offenders, indeed. When the brake friction material is
deposited or smeared
onto the rotor surface in an irregular pattern, upon
application of the
brakes, the brake pad will "grab-and-release" on the film
transfers due to
chemical adhesion, resulting in a brake shudder, and thus
simulating what is
often assumed to be a warped rotor.
Thus, I have to
ask...what brake compound are you using?
Regards,
Andie
Lin
andie w lin
vp marketing and product r&d
carbotech
engineering
http://www.carbotecheng.comtel:
877.899.5024 | fax: 954.493.9669
::-----Original Message-----
::Date:
Thu, 20 Sep 2001 19:55:53 EDT
::From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com::Subject:
Team3S: Rotor Warpage?
::
::expanding due to the high heat?
Why? I have PF Cryo Rotors.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 10:17:39
-0400
From: MAJA <
mxjashogar@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Spark Plugs
Hello I want to know if the NGK Platinum spark plugs
are available for
less money than here in Canada . They want $ 53.00 Can
plus15% tax on
top of that for one . I am thinking about installing the Bosch
ones due
to the expense . Can I get 100,000 Clicks on those ? Thanks
Garry
93ES Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 07:48:20
-0700
From: bob <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spark Plugs
I got jabbed for 16.50 ea. USD with no tax but
paid about 4.00 to ship them.
Do as the board says and get a real nice
torque wrench with the money you saved.
I even got a free lawn chair with my
torque wrench..........this car is nothing but a giver.
search the net to
find them...most speed shops for our cars will have them and if you look hard
enough you might
find them for 12.50.....good luck.....BTW the gasket is
about 14.00 from the local parts shop
enjoy the day...........
bob
K.
- -----Original Message-----
From: MAJA
[SMTP:mxjashogar@home.com]
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 7:18 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Spark Plugs
Hello I want to know if the NGK Platinum spark plugs
are available for
less money than here in Canada . They want $ 53.00 Can
plus15% tax on
top of that for one . I am thinking about installing the Bosch
ones due
to the expense . Can I get 100,000 Clicks on those ? Thanks
Garry
93ES Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 10:04:10
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1991 3000 GT VR-4
>4) Cheapest good wheels for our cars
might be Enkei RP01 in 17x9 at
>$176 each at Discount Tire ($205 in 18x9).
The stock ones are not
>cheap.
Do you think those teeny tiny
spokes can withstand the cornering forces of
open tracking? When I bought my
Milli Miglias, the wheel wizards at
TireRack said to be careful about skinny
spokes like that. He didn't
mention the Enkeis in particular, but he said
very few wheels work on our
cars.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 09:59:00
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #619
A
>Now, there is a third
cause of brake shudder, which is NOT caused by a
>warped rotor, but can
often lead many to believe that their rotors are
>warped.
<snip>. When the brake friction
>material is deposited or
smeared onto the rotor surface in an inrregular
>pattern, upon application
of the brakes, the brake pad will
>"grab-and-release" on the film
transfers due to chemical adhesion, resulting
>in a brake shudder, and
thus simulating what is often assumed to be a warped
>rotor.
When I
was runnng at Road America one day and the brakes started shuddering
at the
beginning of a session, my instructor said, "Don't worry, it'll
go
away." Sure enough, after a couple of hot laps, it went away. Musta
been
what Andie is talking about. They were Pagid Blacks, and they only did
it
once.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 08:10:26
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
1991 3000 GT VR-4
They work on mine --- it was/is a concern and as a
result I clean and inspect
my rims before an event. I talked to Tire Rack
before I bought and they said
"sure no problem" --- yeah right, like I'm
going to believe a 22 year old
salesman who was selling underwear at Sears
three month ago [ you may
detect some cynicism here --- old age does that to
you ]
Jim
Berry
=====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>; <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, September 21, 2001 8:04 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1991 3000 GT
VR-4
> >4) Cheapest good wheels for our cars might be Enkei RP01 in
17x9 at
> >$176 each at Discount Tire ($205 in 18x9). The stock ones
are not
> >cheap.
>
> Do you think those teeny tiny
spokes can withstand the cornering forces of
> open tracking? When I
bought my Milli Miglias, the wheel wizards at
> TireRack said to be
careful about skinny spokes like that. He didn't
> mention the Enkeis in
particular, but he said very few wheels work on our
> cars.
>
> Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 10:23:36
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Track wheels
Actually, the strongest track wheel of all is a
stocker. I ran 1997 ES
wheels for two seasons (sold 'em to Flash, who still
uses them). For
anybody who needs a set of track wheels, maybe the best
solution would be
to put the race tires on stock wheels and street tires on
those spindly
little Enkeis. The stockers are heavy, but they don't bend or
break.
Another solution for track wheels is to do what I did: find a set
of beat
up stock wheels that need rechroming. I got mine for $100 each. They
don't
look very nice close up, but they work.
Rich/94
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 10:33:03
-0500
From: Gabriel Estrada <
typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
I have never used leaded racing fuel in the
Mitsubishi, but in my Typhoon I
always run a mix of 110 leaded and 92 octane
from Amoco. It's major
advantage for me is allowing me to run higher
levels of boost with out
detonation. On straight 92 I can get away with
15lbs and no detonation.
Running a mix at the drag strip last weekend of
15gal 92, 5 gal 110 I was
running 22lbs and still zero detonation.
Problem is that I was replacing 02
sensors every 2-3 months. I'm
assuming that you will have the same problem
in the 3s cars...It got really
expensive after a while : ) But it makes a
difference in my
truck. In the Mitsu I have only run 104 unleaded, and I
can't say that
it made that much of a difference, but I am running a stock
car and
detonation has never been much of an issue. But if I were to
start
modifying the VR-4 then I would start running a mix in that car just
to
ensure that I do keep detonation down....
Just my opinion...
Gabriel
Estrada
Internet Sales Director
McCarthy Auto Group
Chevrolet,
Oldsmobile, Mitsubishi, Nissan and Hyundai
913-269-7365
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 11:55:18
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: 10.4 sec
1/4 mile run: Reality or fantasy?
I've heard someone has claimed a 10.4
run in a VR4. Is this true, do we
have any hard information to back it
up?
The technical content comes when/if we find out who did this and HOW
they
did it.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 09:05:59
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leaded race fuel
Gabriel,
What are you using to
monitor knock on your Typhoon?
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Gabriel Estrada" <
typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
To:
"Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>;
"Sam Shelat"
<
sshelat@erols.com>
Cc: "Curtis
McConnel" <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>;
"'Jannusch, Matt'"
<
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>;
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, September 21, 2001 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Leaded race
fuel
I have never used leaded racing fuel in the Mitsubishi, but in
my
Typhoon I always run a mix of 110 leaded and 92 octane from Amoco.
It's major advantage for me is allowing me to run higher levels of
boost
with out detonation. On straight 92 I can get away with 15lbs
and no
detonation. <snip>
Gabriel Estrada
Internet Sales
Director
McCarthy Auto Group
Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Mitsubishi, Nissan and
Hyundai
913-269-7365
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 12:15:54
-0400
From: MAJA <
mxjashogar@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spark Plugs
I called both Chrysler dealerships and both the
Part guys stressed $ 53.00 ,
Canadian Tire doesn't carry them . I tried some
other Auto parts and neither
could get them?? As I live in Ontario I thinking
about driving to Michigan
once this border crackdown eases a bit .
anymore
info appreciated . LMK Thanks Garry
Darc wrote:
>
Gary;;
> You must have been misquoted. That sounds like the price for the
set. And,
> I am in Canada. The NGK platinums are good until the
100.000km/60,000mile
> service is required. If you want to change more
regularly you can go with
> NGK coppers which give every bit as good
performance.
>
> Darc
>
> Victoria, BC
>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "MAJA" <
mxjashogar@home.com>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 7:17 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Spark
Plugs
>
> > Hello I want to know if the NGK Platinum spark plugs
are available for
> > less money than here in Canada . They want $
53.00 Can plus15% tax on
> > top of that for one . I am thinking about
installing the Bosch ones due
> > to the expense . Can I get 100,000
Clicks on those ? Thanks
> > Garry 93ES Stealth
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 12:17:34
-0400
From: "Andie W. Lin" <
andiewlin@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Brake Shudder - Addendum
Also, it is important to note that
some friction compounds, especially when
switching from one brand to another,
are not "compatible" with each other.
That is, if you use Compound ABC, and
then switch directly to Compound XYZ,
you may experience a
stronger-than-normal shudder as a result of friction
material transfer.
This is why it is very important to turn your rotors
when installing a new
set of brake pads. If you rotors are smooth such that
they do not have
any grooving, then it is sometimes sufficient to scuff the
rotors with a
heavy grit paper (50 grit, for example) in small circles, to
remove any film
transfer; though turning the rotor does a much better
job.
Andie
andie w lin
vp marketing and product
r&d
carbotech engineering
http://www.carbotecheng.comtel:
877.899.5024 | fax: 954.493.9669
::-----Original Message-----
::From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
::Of Merritt
::Sent: Friday,
September 21, 2001 10:59 AM
::To: Andie W. Lin;
team3s-digest@mail.speedtoys.com::Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #619
::When I was runnng at Road America
one day and the brakes started
::shuddering
::at the beginning of a
session, my instructor said, "Don't worry, it'll go
::away." Sure
enough, after a couple of hot laps, it went away. Musta been
::what
Andie is talking about. They were Pagid Blacks, and they only did
it
::once.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 13:22:11
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Brake Shudder - Addendum
But scoring them with 50-grit paper
is less than $15 a rotor to turn for
some people. :)
And PF from
the previous posts was Porterfield rotors.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Andie W. Lin
Sent: Friday, September 21,
2001 12:18 PM
Also, it is important to note that some friction compounds,
especially when
switching from one brand to another, are not "compatible"
with each other.
That is, if you use Compound ABC, and then switch directly
to Compound XYZ,
you may experience a stronger-than-normal shudder as a
result of friction
material transfer. This is why it is very important
to turn your rotors
when installing a new set of brake pads. If you
rotors are smooth such that
they do not have any grooving, then it is
sometimes sufficient to scuff the
rotors with a heavy grit paper (50 grit,
for example) in small circles, to
remove any film transfer; though turning
the rotor does a much better job.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 13:26:22
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Track wheels
my track wheels are a dream. I worry nothing
about them breaking. They do
weigh 50# with the tire mounted (about 26#
without I think) but that is
little price to pay for peace of mind.
Plus, at my car weight I don't worry
about reducing anything anymore
(although 10# lighter on the corner would be
40# more sprung weight to not
sling around and slow down).
They are good and can hold up to a 265-width
tire I believe. I have 255s on
them now but want to go to 265 next
season if I ever wear the track tires
out in the middle of the year.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
Sent: Friday,
September 21, 2001 11:24 AM
Actually, the strongest track wheel of all is
a stocker. I ran 1997 ES
wheels for two seasons (sold 'em to Flash, who still
uses them). For
anybody who needs a set of track wheels, maybe the best
solution would be
to put the race tires on stock wheels and street tires on
those spindly
little Enkeis. The stockers are heavy, but they don't bend or
break.
Another solution for track wheels is to do what I did: find a set
of beat
up stock wheels that need rechroming. I got mine for $100 each. They
don't
look very nice close up, but they work.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 12:37:19
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spark Plugs
> I called both Chrysler dealerships and
both the Part guys
> stressed $ 53.00 , Canadian Tire doesn't carry them
. I tried
> some other Auto parts and neither could get them?? As I live
> in Ontario I thinking about driving to Michigan once this
>
border crackdown eases a bit . anymore info appreciated .
> LMK
Thanks Garry
I got the copper version from a place in Canada...
http://www.clubplug.net/They have
the platinum stock plugs also, but those are $10.95 there. They
were
pretty cheap (and also actually had) the copper versions in
colder
ranges. Took a little while to get them, but they got here just
fine.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 13:48:23
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: 3S
Specific Brembo upgrade **NEW INFORMATION**
I received a reply from Rober
Ramsey at Brembo. He was kind enough to send
me the PDF spec sheet for
our brake package as well as a PDF detailing what
wheel measurements must be
made to ensure a proper fit. I can forward the
PDFs to someone who has
webspace to host them for all to view. Here's
the
highlights:
P/N 1B1.8013A
Two piece aluminium caliper with 40
and 44mm pistons
355mm x 32mm cross drilled motorsport discs
Floating
style billet aluminium "bell"
Goodridge SS lines
Cost: $3295.00
*eek!*
For more information, contact Robert Ramsey at 800/325-3994 xt
204
I can't offer any educated opinion of this setup. I'm just the
messenger :)
But this may be a nice upgrade for the serious track nuts among
us. Or,
maybe not. I'll leave that for you folks to decide.
As I said, if anyone
wants the PDFs email me privately and I'll forward
them. The brake
measurement PDF diagram could have some other uses as
well. Perhaps someone
could compile a list of measurements for the
various Porsche retrofit kits
out there?
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991
Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 11:10:12
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3S Specific Brembo upgrade **NEW INFORMATION**
I can..but why
dont have you have a speedtoys.com WWW account
already?
*grin*
Just Email a username & password you
want..thats it.
That goes for anyone.
On Fri, 21 Sep 2001, Jeff
VanOrsdal wrote:
> I received a reply from Rober Ramsey at
Brembo. He was kind enough to send
> me the PDF spec sheet for our
brake package as well as a PDF detailing what
> wheel measurements must be
made to ensure a proper fit. I can forward the
> PDFs to someone who
has webspace to host them for all to view. Here's the
>
highlights:
>
> P/N 1B1.8013A
> Two piece aluminium caliper
with 40 and 44mm pistons
> 355mm x 32mm cross drilled motorsport
discs
> Floating style billet aluminium "bell"
> Goodridge SS
lines
> Cost: $3295.00 *eek!*
>
> For more information,
contact Robert Ramsey at 800/325-3994 xt 204
>
> I can't offer any
educated opinion of this setup. I'm just the messenger :)
> But this
may be a nice upgrade for the serious track nuts among us. Or,
>
maybe not. I'll leave that for you folks to decide. As I said, if
anyone
> wants the PDFs email me privately and I'll forward them.
The brake
> measurement PDF diagram could have some other uses as
well. Perhaps someone
> could compile a list of measurements for the
various Porsche retrofit kits
> out there?
>
> Jeff
VanOrsdal
> 1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
>
jeffv@1nce.com* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 14:14:42
-0400
From: "Andie W. Lin" <
andiewlin@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 1991 3000 GT VR-4
Haha! Which reminds me...full
disclosure...I'm 27. :-)
But I have never sold underwear at Sears (or
anywhere else), nor have I
flipped burgers at BK, McDonalds, Wendy's, Roy
Rogers, Checkers, etc. -
though I do eat at Wendy's at least once a
week...triple classic with bacon
is a real gut buster!)...but I research,
develop, and market brake pads.
Can you trust me to stop your car going
into Turn 1 at Road America at
150mph+ with a puddle of kitty litter and a
concrete wall just a few feet
off the edge of the track as you decide to
start your braking at the last
marker while having to downshift through three
gears? :-)
<grin>
andie w lin
vp marketing and product
r&d
carbotech engineering
http://www.carbotecheng.comtel:
877.899.5024 | fax: 954.493.9669
::-----Original Message-----
::From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
::Of Jim Berry
::Sent: Friday,
September 21, 2001 11:10 AM
::To: Jeff Lucius;
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st;
Merritt
::Subject: Re: Team3S: 1991 3000 GT VR-4
::"sure no problem" ---
yeah right, like I'm going to believe a 22 year old
::salesman who was
selling underwear at Sears three month ago [ you may
::detect some cynicism
here --- old age does that to you ]
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 14:39:32
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 1991 3000 GT VR-4
I will trust the Panther pads only because our
very own Dr. Willis has
braved something like this himself and I witnessed
that they work well.
Did you get any results from your dyno test on the
new pads? You said you
were going to measure temps or something and I
was wondering if that would
help persuade some of us to your
products.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4, Big Reds, Pagid Orange race pads (for
now)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andie W. Lin
Sent: Friday,
September 21, 2001 2:15 PM
Can you trust me to stop your car going into
Turn 1 at Road America at
150mph+ with a puddle of kitty litter and a
concrete wall just a few feet
off the edge of the track as you decide to
start your braking at the last
marker while having to downshift through three
gears? :-)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 11:46:31
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
1991 3000 GT VR-4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Andie W. Lin
<
andiewlin@yahoo.com>
>
Haha! Which reminds me...full disclosure...I'm 27. :-)
Damn ---- my
grandkids are half that age, young whippersnapper.
I hold to the --- believe
½ of what you hear and ¾ of what you see ---
school of thought.
I read
with some interest your brief report on rotor warp --- a couple of
questions
por favore ---
can you undo the 'ghost warping' by a combination of heat
cycling and
turning or do you just live with it or toss it out
???
Will rotors develop hard spots --- I've seen it in flywheels when
they've
been overstressed.
does cryo hold up even after heating the
rotors to 1400º a few dozen
times ???
On this board PF usually refers
to Porterfield --- you said Performance
Friction makes the worlds best street
rotors [ or words to that effect ] ---
Does that mean that there is a
difference for race rotors [ assuming the
use of iron rotors ]. I am aware of
the use of two piece rotors but are you
talking different designs or
materials or what ??
> Can you trust me to stop your car going
into Turn 1 at Road America at
> 150mph+ with a puddle of kitty litter and
a concrete wall just a few feet
> off the edge of the track as you decide
to start your braking at the last
> marker while having to downshift
through three gears? :-)
>
> <grin>
Not just yet ---
that why this board and others like it are important, we can
share
information on what works and what doesn't. Marketing hype is just
that,
hype, until the rubber hits the road so to speak. I am interested in
the
improvement in the braking capabilities of our cars and I follow all the
posts,
good and bad.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 12:02:23
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Track wheels
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Darren Schilberg
<
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> my
track wheels are a dream. I worry nothing about them breaking. They
do
> weigh 50# with the tire mounted (about 26# without I think) but that
is
> little price to pay for peace of mind.
I just weighed my two
setups --- 94 VR4 17" rims with well worn Yoko A032's
came in at
49# :-Þ , while my RP01's with the Hoosiers are 37# :-).
That's
a pretty good savings. I don't worry about my RP01's any more I just
make
sure to check them over --- that should be done with any wheel subjected
to
track use and abuse. If and when I get some extra $$ I'm probably going
to
go with the CCW wheels at about $600 each.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 15:29:06
-0400
From: "Andie W. Lin" <
andiewlin@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 1991 3000 GT VR-4
See below:
andie w lin
vp marketing
and product r&d
carbotech engineering
http://www.carbotecheng.comtel:
877.899.5024 | fax: 954.493.9669
::-----Original Message-----
::From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
::Of Jim Berry
::Sent: Friday,
September 21, 2001 2:47 PM
::To: Andie W. Lin; Jeff Lucius;
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st;
Merritt
::Subject: Re: Team3S: 1991 3000 GT VR-4
::I read with some
interest your brief report on rotor warp --- a couple of
::questions por
favore ---
Always willing to answer what I can (and know about), and
defer to someone
else when I don't know.
::can you undo the 'ghost
warping' by a combination of heat cycling and
::turning or do you just live
with it or toss it out ???
You live with it or toss it out, right.
You cannot undo this "hot ghost
warpage" as it is in "memory", if you
will. However, most of this kind of
perceived warpage is actually film
transfer, and not warpage at all...in
most cases I have seen, at
least.
::Will rotors develop hard spots --- I've seen it in flywheels
when they've
::been overstressed.
Yes, you can develop hot/hard spots
on your rotors, especially when using
brake friction compounds with a very
high carbon content (which is the main
reason we went to ceramics to replace
the carbon typically found in a
high-performance compound; carbon is just a
filler material, and does not
provide the braking torque/ability of the
compound - prior to carbon, the
filler was abestos). If you get enough
film transfer from a high-carbon
content pad onto the rotor, and then stand
on the brakes enough times, you
can develop these hot/hard spots on your
rotors. This is typically where
your cracks will typically show up
at.
::does cryo hold up even after heating the rotors to 1400º a few
dozen
::times ???
Yes. The cryogenic treatment of metals, if
performed properly (e.g. this
is a 4 day process, from start to
finish...if someone tells you they will
cryogenically treat your rotors or
engine parts in 2 or even 3 days...they
are NOT doing it right, and you are
wasting your money), is a permanent
treatment, and it cannot be
"undone". For more information on this, please
reference our website at
www.carbotecheng.com .
::On
this board PF usually refers to Porterfield --- you said
Performance
::Friction makes the worlds best street rotors [ or words to
that
::effect ] ---
::Does that mean that there is a difference for race
rotors [ assuming the
::use of iron rotors ]. I am aware of the use of two
piece rotors
::but are you
::talking different designs or materials or
what ??
Both...in the quality of the metal used, the quality of the
manufacturing
process, and the quality control of tolerances.
Performance
Friction/Pinnacle Brake Technology (PFC) makes, hands down, the
best rotors
I have seen...at a cost; they are not inexpensive by any stretch
of the
imagination.
::Not just yet --- that why this board and others
like it are
::important, we can
::share information on what works and what
doesn't. Marketing hype is just
::that, hype, until the rubber hits the road
so to speak. I am
::interested in the
::improvement in the braking
capabilities of our cars and I follow
::all the posts,
::good and
bad.
That was intended to put a grin on your face. :-) We put out
the highest
quality products, both in terms of performance and reliability;
Carbotech
Engineering achieves this both through extensive scientific
testing, and
also by listening to customer input/feedback. The dyno
testing is just part
of the picture...telling us if we are headed in the
right direction, and
that we have enough information to sell a product that
is safe and reliable;
the customer leads us the rest of the way to the finish
line.
Most marketing is hype, no question. Term like
"c****n-k****r" or
"carbon-f***r" brake pads are examples of this. If
you have any questions
about our products, just ask, and I'll answer them for
you. For example,
the Honda S2000 group was concerned about corrosive
dust from our Panther
compound (NOT the Panther Plus, which is
non-corrosive)...and we had already
sold several rear sets in this compound
(which provides the proper braking
bias for this vehicle). Well, I went
and tested an S2000 over three days in
Michigan two weekends ago to determine
if the ABS on the S2000 was
adequately programmed to handle the harder-biting
Panther Plus in the rear,
so they could have a rear compound that did not
produce corrosive dust.
Turns out, we can use Panther Plus in the front and
the rear of the S2000,
despite the light weight of the vehicle, without any
problems...and I ended
up exchanging several rear axle sets of the Panther
for the Panther Plus at
no cost. You can read the entire
discussion here:
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26929
.
The bottom line for me is that you guys get what you want and
need. Our
products are excellent, but they may not be what you need in
a particular
situation or application, and in this case, I'll have to send
you to another
manufacturer's product line; I send people to Pagid on
occasion, for
example.
Regards,
Andie Lin
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#620
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