Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, September 18 2001
Volume 01 : Number
615
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 18 Sep 2001 00:36:56 -0700
From: "Richard Kerrill" <rkerrill@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: reading dipstick -Checking oil level (was: Only drained 2 qts engine oil
during change!)
Darren,
Thank you for bringing up this
question!! I look forward to any solutions.
I have recently
experienced the SAME reading problem with the oil dipstick
as well.
It was
hard to tell if it was low more than a quart or short just a quarter
quart -
no matter which side of the dipstick is facing the front of the car.
Engine
hot, turned off for fueling. I have a '92 3000GT
SL.
">However, if I turn the dipstick over (the two notches
facing
>toward me) then there is oil on half the thickness of the dipstick
and it
>goes up to about the 3/4 or Full mark.
>
>Does ANYBODY
else experience this? "
- -Rich Kerrill (RichK)
'92 white
SL
(just threw a rod - looking for an engine.)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 02:50:33
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: O2 sensors and Stillen DP
It looks like the ECM is using the
"downstream" O2 sensors, the ones
after the pre-cats, to evaluate pre-cat
performance. Gutting the
pre-cats or removing/disconnecting the downstream O2
sensors will
likely make the ECM unhappy. Has anyone gutted pre-cats on 2nd
gen
car and left downstream O2 sensors in, or removed them? Are there
any
problems with the ECM?
Francis,
Considering that 2nd gen DP
are different than 1st gen, is your DP
made for your car? Have you talked to
Stillen about this? If you give
them a call, would you also ask why there are
no fuel pump upgrades
in their latest catalog? BTW, Stillen shows only one
part, #503370,
that replaces all '91-99 3S downpipes. We know the 2nd gen DP
are
different. Don't they? Here is what CAPS says.
All 1991-1993:
MB810821 (no O2)
1994-1995 Fed. MB127473 (no O2?)
1994-end Calif and
1996-end Fed: MB925753 (w/ O2)
Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
- --- Geoff
Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
wrote:
> Yes, you will have to weld in bungs for everything to remain
happy.
> Make
> sure you place them the same distance from the
turbos as before, as
> how
> much heat they see, directly affects
how well they perform..and how
> well
> your motor performs as
well.
>
> On Mon, 17 Sep 2001, Morice, Francis wrote:
>
> > I just ordered a Borla catback and a Stillen DP and I was
>
wondering what I
> > have to do with the 2 O2 sensors that are on the
stock DP. Do I
> need to weld
> > bungs on the Stillen DP and the
test pipe, or can I just not use
> them ? I
> > hope to be
installing it this weekend, so any help would be
> greatly
> >
appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
Francis
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 08:13:15
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ULTIMATE way to gut a cat
Well, I guess you can call me the Cat Doctor,
cuz I've cleaned out 4
sets of precats. Meow.
I tried the long
drill bit method, and it was a pain. It took me about
30mins to get
nowhere fast with the drill bit. So, I reached in the
drawer and pulled
out the routing bits, and went to town.
The front cat was a breeze,
finished that in like 5 minutes. When I
laid down to do the back cat,
to the time I finished, it took me all of
15 mins the first time.
Here's how I do it:
These are all with routing bits! I have a set,
with 6 bits from 1/4" to
1".
1 - Take a mid size bit, bore a hole straight
down the middle.
2 - With that same bit, drill 4 or 5 holes around the
outside edges of
the cat, along the walls.
3 - Take a large bit, I usually
try the 1", BRACE yourself, and slowly
rip down thru the middle again.
At this point, very large chunks
separate and pliers help to pull them
out. Continue ripping all around,
this size bit should rip the material
right off the walls of the cat
easily.
4 - When the smoke clears, take
your smallest bit and clean up any
leftovers on the
wall.
Done!
Best of luck all,
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
R/T TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 07:24:55
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: O2 sensors and Stillen DP
Jeff,
I have my precats
gutted and yes, the ECM is not happy about it. I get the
Check Engine
light to come on. There seems to be no pattern to it coming
on.
It could come on in 25 miles or 500 miles. Although it does seem to
not
come on as often if I let the car warm up to operating temp before
driving in
it.
As for the Stillen DP, I ordered it from Dynamic Racing. I will be
calling
Matt and talking to him about it. I can't believe I am the only
person with
96+ car that has ordered this, so something must have been done
to the
design of that DP. I will report what I hear from Matt later
today.
Francis
'96 RT/TT
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Jeff Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001
4:51 AM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
Re: Team3S: O2 sensors and Stillen DP
It looks like the ECM is using
the "downstream" O2 sensors, the ones
after the pre-cats, to evaluate pre-cat
performance. Gutting the
pre-cats or removing/disconnecting the downstream O2
sensors will
likely make the ECM unhappy. Has anyone gutted pre-cats on 2nd
gen
car and left downstream O2 sensors in, or removed them? Are there
any
problems with the ECM?
Francis,
Considering that 2nd gen DP
are different than 1st gen, is your DP
made for your car? Have you talked to
Stillen about this? If you give
them a call, would you also ask why there are
no fuel pump upgrades
in their latest catalog? BTW, Stillen shows only one
part, #503370,
that replaces all '91-99 3S downpipes. We know the 2nd gen DP
are
different. Don't they? Here is what CAPS says.
All 1991-1993:
MB810821 (no O2)
1994-1995 Fed. MB127473 (no O2?)
1994-end Calif and
1996-end Fed: MB925753 (w/ O2)
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 08:58:25
-0400
From: "rjmsmail@swbell.net"
<rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Shifter pops out of 4th gear: 1994 3000gt SL
Hi guys,
Been off
in Scotland for months but back in Houston now driving my 1994 3000gt SL
(standard, 5-speed, all stock). The problem I'm having is that it started
"popping out of 4th gear", first only about once every few days of driving, now
probably after maybe a minute or two in 4th gear. It's been doing this for
months now but I have been just skipping 4th gear because the dealer here said I
was probably in need of a transmission overhaul it has about 95,000 miles on it
and I admit, I haven't done much maintenance on it), around $2,000! I was
wondering if I am just on borrowed time with the other gears starting to mess up
or if I am hurting anything by driving it this way, other than I stay in 3rd
gear longer now, usually shifting to 5th gear around 4,000rpm. I DO NOT
rest my hand on the shifter while driving (although I have caught myself with my
hand resting on it while idling at a stop), is it probably just worn bearings
(synchros?), something that I can't fix by removin!
g the shifter
boot? Thanks in advance for the advice.
Bob
Proud to Be an
American:
http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/IceWalker/ATributetotheVictimsandFamily.html
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 18 Sep 2001 06:13:53
-0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: How to gut a Cat and dipstick issues
Question: I gutted my
pre-cats and now when I let off the gas I get a crackling in the exhaust almost
every time. It sound very "rally car" but it makes my wife nervous.
Is this normal? What is everyone elses' experience.
I am still
chasing down a misfire when the engine is cold and I was not sure if this is a
symptom of the misfire problem or if this was normal with gutted
pre-cats.
I improved my pre-cats when the engine was out. I thought it
was easy to modify the rear when I could hold it in my lap. It is also
much easier on your lungs not having all that crap drop into your face.
A
helpfull tool is a drill bit extender which is a rod with a camp on one end to
hold a drill bit. Just make sure you don't hit the oxygen sensor when using the
extender.
P.S. When I worked at Peterbilt we would calculate the
dipstick length but because the tubes very long and twisted we would often just
pour in the recommended amount of oil in the engine, insert the dipstick,
measure the oil level and revise the print to make that the high mark on the
dipstick.
When I worked at a service station in high school I
changed the oil in approximately 3000 cars. I would check the oil after
refilling. Fire the engine up for a few minutes, look for leaks, shut it down
and check the oil agian. The oil level would drop by the capacity of the oil
filter (we did not pre-fill)The amount of oil suspended in the engine was almost
un-measurable. Think about it, oil is ment to flow well and oil passages
ment to have a gravity drain. not much oil is going to get stuck in your engine.
and anyone who has tried to pre-fill the turbo oil lines during a swap will tell
you that the oil drains right out.
P.P.S. Distick level
trick. Wipe your distick off with cold water before checking. When
distick is hot the oil tends to spread easier. Having the engine cold
seems to help too. If the oil level still looks goofy clean the dipstick with
carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Even after doing all of this I still look
at both sides of the dipstick because one side is always 1/2 quart higher on the
VR-4.
I never check the oil when car is running because air bubbles in oil
will make the level artificially high. also engine vibrations will cause the oil
to slosh around making the oil level artificially high. How much higher
depends on engine and oil type so it is not very consistent from car to
car.
Good Luck.
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 09:48:06
-0400
From: "Volthause" <volt@vozuluzov.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ways to Gut a Cat
Removing the active aero would reduce weight,
as would replacing window
glass with lexan, and finding a way to remove the
AWS system.
carpet, sound deadening, door panels, headliner... the list
goes on.
Scott Holthausen
'94 VR4 (for sale)
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Christopher Deutsch <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
To:
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, September 18, 2001 12:04 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ways to Gut a
Cat
> Cut off one arm and one leg, should shed ~30 pounds
;)
>
> Ooorrrr, remove the spare and replace with a can of fix a
flat and a cell
> phone. Remove the rear seat (and the passenger
seat if you like). Or
> replace seats with racing seats.
Lighter rims and tires are great since
> it's a spinning mass.
Carbon fiber hood (might as well do the arm and a
leg
> first).
Replace main cat with a test pipe, or just get a lighter
> aftermarket
exhaust. Remove the stereo if you like. Drive with an empty
>
tank. Nothing else I can think of that's cheap...
>
>
Christopher
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Thomas
Jeys" <tj@jeys.net>
> To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2001 10:35 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Ways to Gut a
Cat
>
>
> > What is the best way to gut my cat? Just take
it out and shuv a big rod
> > through it? Also, does anyone know
of some advoce on wieght reduction
> that
> > won't cost me an
arma and a leg? Any advice as I prepare to do this
would
> >
be welcome, thanks!!!
> >
> > T.J.
> > 1992 3000GT
VR-4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 07:17:14
-0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: O2 sensors and Stillen DP
The stillen DP should come with the
bungs. It is designed to fit all 3000's
(TT) because the rear precat flange
has 2 sets of holes, 1 for 91-93, and 1
for 94+. The difference between the
2 generations is that the rear precat
flange is offset (twisted) about 10
degrees from each other.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 07:41:21
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
For what it is
worth, my 93 stealth TT AWD has a dipstick with two notches
about half an
inch apart.
Andy
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 07:33:00
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ULTIMATE way to gut a cat
one thing that wasn't mentioned in this
discussion --- wear eye
protection and body armor if you have it
:-) The rear cat is
usually done in place so you're on your back under it
and this
stuff is a metallic honeycomb that breaks up into anything from
dust to inch long pieces. I used a balaclava [ painters hood ] and
goggles to protect my face and hair and a long sleeved shirt to
protect
my arms.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
To: Team3S
Stealth <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Well, I guess you can call me the Cat Doctor, cuz I've cleaned out 4
>
sets of precats. Meow.
>
> I tried the long drill bit method,
and it was a pain. It took me about
> 30mins to get nowhere fast
with the drill bit. So, I reached in the
> drawer and pulled out the
routing bits, and went to town.
>
> The front cat was a breeze,
finished that in like 5 minutes. When I
> laid down to do the back
cat, to the time I finished, it took me all of
> 15 mins the first
time. Here's how I do it:
>
> These are all with routing
bits! I have a set, with 6 bits from 1/4" to
> 1".
> 1 - Take
a mid size bit, bore a hole straight down the middle.
> 2 - With that same
bit, drill 4 or 5 holes around the outside edges of
> the cat, along the
walls.
> 3 - Take a large bit, I usually try the 1", BRACE yourself, and
slowly
> rip down thru the middle again. At this point, very large
chunks
> separate and pliers help to pull them out. Continue ripping
all around,
> this size bit should rip the material right off the walls of
the cat
> easily.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 09:43:44
-0600
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Checking oil
My dipstick measures even on both sides. Do I have a
defective car or
dipstick?
Flash: You shouldn't be hittin' the crack
pipe prior to checking your oil
level!;-)
I used to run with the oil
level at the full mark. However, after scouring
the web, it seems to me that
the over-full situation is potentially much
more detrimental than being a
quart low. I have read that oil circulation is
improved if the oil level is
in between the full and low marks. Also 1 quart
less weight for those
embarking on an automotive "diet".
Bueller? Bueller? Anybody care to
comment?
I run Amsoil Series 2000 0-30 full synthetic. I change the
FILTER every 3K
and top it off with fresh oil, to somewhere between the full
and low marks
(no crosshatching on mine either). I do a full drain oil change
every 6K or
so. Oil analysis has shown that I could even run longer between
changes but
old habits die hard especially when talking about one of our dear
3KGT's.
I've been milking my clutch now for over 6K. No slippage in 1st
or 2nd but
3rd through 5th require serious throttle control. I can however
speed uphill
at over 120mph in 6th on cruise without any slippage. Strange...
When I get
a new clutch, I'm sure it will be like riding a cruise
missile!
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR
aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 11:47:03
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: How to gut a Cat and dipstick issues
Thanks, John. Nobody
is listening to me when I talk about checking it with
the engine
running. Think of it as finding the depth of water in a
boiling
pot. The bubbles are making it splash up but if you do it very
quickly and
check it and then do it again then you will get two readings that
are not
far off (and when this is your ONLY feasible reading then you take
it).
As for the oil -- I will try it this morning while the car is still
cold and
then clean the stick if necessary and try it again. I was
thinking that the
flat part is getting scraped off on the edge of the tube
where it enters the
oil pan. If so then I need to rotate the stick 90
degrees and have it
scrape the edge and not the face of the stick. I
don't think the stick
flexes when turned 90 degrees though.
And since
my dipstick does not have cross-hatch marks on it the oil has no
texture to
stick to so maybe I'll scribe some lines in it or buy a $4
aftermarket
one.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: John
Monnin
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 9:14 AM
P.S. When I
worked at Peterbilt we would calculate the dipstick length but
because the
tubes very long and twisted we would often just pour in the
recommended
amount of oil in the engine, insert the dipstick, measure the
oil level and
revise the print to make that the high mark on the dipstick.
When I
worked at a service station in high school I changed the oil in
approximately
3000 cars. I would check the oil after refilling. Fire the
engine up
for a few minutes, look for leaks, shut it down and check the oil
agian. The
oil level would drop by the capacity of the oil filter (we did
not
pre-fill)The amount of oil suspended in the engine was
almost
un-measurable. Think about it, oil is ment to flow well and oil
passages
ment to have a gravity drain. not much oil is going to get stuck in
your
engine. and anyone who has tried to pre-fill the turbo oil lines during
a
swap will tell you that the oil drains right out.
P.P.S.
Distick level trick. Wipe your distick off with cold water
before
checking. When distick is hot the oil tends to spread
easier. Having the
engine cold seems to help too. If the oil level
still looks goofy clean the
dipstick with carb cleaner or brake
cleaner. Even after doing all of this I
still look at both sides of the
dipstick because one side is always 1/2
quart higher on the VR-4.
I never
check the oil when car is running because air bubbles in oil will
make the
level artificially high. also engine vibrations will cause the oil
to slosh
around making the oil level artificially high. How much higher
depends
on engine and oil type so it is not very consistent from car to
car.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 11:52:25
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Checking oil
Thanks, Paul. This reminds me that the oil
might be old and not want to
stick to the stick. I'll try an oil change
soon but I want to buy the
famous oil drain flip cap so next time it will be
easier for me to do it
myself. I also don't find anywhere where I can
buy Redline synthetic (only
Valvoline, Mobil 1, etc.) and I need some "good"
stuff for the car. Maybe
I'll do an oil flush system thing with some
cheap weight two times to get
all the stuff out and then fill with a good $9
a bottle synthetic.
I'll report back anything.
P.S. I was only
hitting the crack pipe from all those people talking about
bungs on the O2
sensors (laugh).
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Desert Fox
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 11:44 AM
My dipstick
measures even on both sides. Do I have a defective car
or
dipstick?
Flash: You shouldn't be hittin' the crack pipe prior to
checking your oil
level!;-)
I used to run with the oil level at the
full mark. However, after scouring
the web, it seems to me that the over-full
situation is potentially much
more detrimental than being a quart low. I have
read that oil circulation is
improved if the oil level is in between the full
and low marks. Also 1 quart
less weight for those embarking on an automotive
"diet".
Bueller? Bueller? Anybody care to comment?
I run Amsoil
Series 2000 0-30 full synthetic. I change the FILTER every 3K
and top it off
with fresh oil, to somewhere between the full and low marks
(no crosshatching
on mine either). I do a full drain oil change every 6K or
so. Oil analysis
has shown that I could even run longer between changes but
old habits die
hard especially when talking about one of our dear 3KGT's.
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 09:29:31
-0700
From: "Richard Kerrill" <rkerrill@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: clutch adjustible?
I have a '92 SL manual drive.
Problem:
The clutch must be firmly pressed all the way down to floor when
engaging
first gear mostly also 2nd gear. Otherwise, a bad meshing of gears
and
sometimes a terrible grind occurs! Additionally, often its hard to
get
into Reverse.
Im worried this will cause undue harm to my sweet
SL!
A mechanic told me there is no way to adjust the setting of the
clutch pedal
or the amount of pressure required because it is hydrolic.
Is
this true? Any other options? Is this symptomatic of any
other
problems forthcoming?
The clutch was replaced once a couple
years ago. Now I have about 30K of
132k miles on the new clutch.
-
-RichK
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 12:27:38
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: FW: Maverick October 12-14 Race and DE
for folks in the DFW area
...
> Subject: Maverick October 12-14 Race and DE
>
>
Folks,
>
> The Maverick Region PCA Club Race and Driver
Education event at Texas
> Motor Speedway in Fort Worth October 12-14 is
starting to shape up well.
> We have aproximately 70 racers and 35 DE
participants signed up so far.
> That leaves about 1 run group of space
left. There will be 4 run groups
> total. Get your
regidstrations in now for the track that's to fast for
> CART.
The facts are available at pca.org//mav/driving_events.htm.
> Remenber all
DE participants must be solo qualifyied, but not necessairly
> at this
track. We still would like to see some of our Houston area
> friends
involved. This event is a bargan. We are the only group
offering
> this type event at this great facility.
>
> Bryan Henderson
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 10:26:44
-0700
From: "Darc" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Only
drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
Mine is the same as yours Flash.
Just two notches. I assumed all were like
this and it was a
"racing/performance" dipstick made for the cars at the
factory ;-)) It
doesn't matter if it is not crosshatched like you'd get in
your domestic run
of the mill cars. As long as the full and low notches are
there, it's all you
need. This is an original OEM dipstick BTW.
Darc
> My dipstick
is not cross-hatched in the level oil area. It just has two
>
notches. Is this some explanation of the difference? Does Anyone
have a
> plain dipstick with just two notches for the oil level? I'd
like to hear
if
> anyone else can justify this.
>
>
--Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 13:23:18
-0500
From: Gabriel Estrada <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: K&N FIPK
Can someone kindly look at this link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595563614&
r=0&t=0
Is
this a worthwhile kit to get? Advantages to something else that might
be
on the market? My VR-4 is bone stock, and I'm not really planning on
any
major modifications till my Typhoon is done. But this seems like
a
reasonable price, and if the kit sounds good to the majority of the
list,
I'm thinking it might be a good place to start?
Opinions please :
)
Gabriel Estrada
Internet Sales Director
McCarthy Auto
Group
Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Mitsubishi, Nissan and
Hyundai
913-269-7365
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:30:35
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Odd
brake caliper noises
I've got a 1991 Stealth ES with a twin turbo front
brake conversion. The
calipers and hoses have about 130,xxx miles on them.
I'm using Raybestos
pads (for now anyway) and stock TT rotors. I completely
flushed and bled the
fluid at the pad change out (about 5000 miles ago)
Recently, I've recently
noticed a serious decrease in my stopping power. I
used to be able to lock
up the wheels (no ABS) without much effort. But
lately, the car just isn't
stopping very well. When I'm parked, I can
press on the brake pedal and
actually hear a creaking noise from the drivers
side caliper.
Now so that everyone doesn't think I'm neglectful of my
car, I wasn't
planning on keeping this recycled brake system this long.
I spent so much
money on my engine rebuild that I've had to put the brake
upgrade off. I've
got a set of Porterfield rotors that will be going on
once I can afford some
R4S pads and braided lines (and some Motul, of
course). I guess the real
question is, am I looking at caliper damage?
What are some things to look
for if I pull the pistons out of the
caliper? I'd love to swap out the TT
junk for a Big Red setup. But
besides the initial cost, I'm concerned about
wheel clearance and the fact
that I have a set of unused rotors that I'd
have to replace right away. Any
suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
If anyone has a pair of good
condition 1G turbo calipers for sale, please
e-mail me privately.
Thanks.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:27:56
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: K&N FIPK
I'm no expert but it seems a little pricey to me for
just a filter. Doesn't
the 99 Eclipse turbo FIPK fit our cars with a little
modification? They run
something like $90 for the whole kit.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Gabriel Estrada
[mailto:typhoonzz@earthlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 12:23
PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: K&N FIPK
Can someone kindly look
at this link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595563614&
r=0&t=0
Is
this a worthwhile kit to get? Advantages to something else that might
be
on the market? My VR-4 is bone stock, and I'm not really planning on
any
major modifications till my Typhoon is done. But this seems like
a
reasonable price, and if the kit sounds good to the majority of the
list,
I'm thinking it might be a good place to start?
Opinions please :
)
Gabriel Estrada
Internet Sales Director
McCarthy Auto
Group
Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Mitsubishi, Nissan and
Hyundai
913-269-7365
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 13:43:26
-0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
Before you do anything too serious,
I suggest you inspect the pads and
bleed the brakes.
Rich
At 02:30
PM 9/18/01 -0400, Jeff VanOrsdal wrote:
>I've got a 1991 Stealth ES with a
twin turbo front brake conversion. The
>calipers and hoses have about
130,xxx miles on them. I'm using Raybestos
>pads (for now anyway) and
stock TT rotors. I completely flushed and bled the
>fluid at the pad
change out (about 5000 miles ago) Recently, I've recently
>noticed a
serious decrease in my stopping power.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:54:48
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: K&N FIPK
The real K&N FIPK is between $120 and $160 I
think. This is not that since
it is a cone and not an ellipse.
Regardless it is a good price.
However, this is an auction with 2+ days
left so it will definitely not end
up at $70. Good luck.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 15:02:07
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
Jeff -- Great questions.
Big Red
calipers fit first gen cars inside stock 17" wheels.
Stock 2nd gen rotors fit
Big Red calipers.
Stock 1st gen rotors will need exchanged or sold on the
list.
Big Red calipers require stock Porsche pads or appropriate R4S
pads.
The Big Red kit is worth it for the racy folks.
The noise could
be all sorts of stuff. Try it at speed, while creeping, on
jackstands,
wheel off, wheel on, new pads, old pads, etc. It could be the
dust
shield, squeaking part on the stock pads, or a host of things.
I might
have a line for 1st gen VR-4 calipers though if you or someone else
wants to
go that route.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Big Reds
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff VanOrsdal
Sent: Tuesday, September
18, 2001 2:31 PM
Recently, I've recently
noticed a serious decrease in
my stopping power. I used to be able to lock
up the wheels (no ABS) without
much effort. But lately, the car just isn't
stopping very well.
When I'm parked, I can press on the brake pedal and
actually hear a creaking
noise from the drivers side caliper.
Now so that everyone doesn't think
I'm neglectful of my car, I wasn't
planning on keeping this recycled brake
system this long. I spent so much
money on my engine rebuild that I've
had to put the brake upgrade off. I've
got a set of Porterfield rotors
that will be going on once I can afford some
R4S pads and braided lines (and
some Motul, of course). I guess the real
question is, am I looking at
caliper damage? What are some things to look
for if I pull the pistons out of
the caliper? I'd love to swap out the TT
junk for a Big Red setup. But
besides the initial cost, I'm concerned about
wheel clearance and the fact
that I have a set of unused rotors that I'd
have to replace right away. Any
suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:05:22
-0500
From: Gabriel Estrada <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK
Well it is a dutch auction with 25 available at
that price. So, I hear you
saying it is a good price : ) But for
someone that is doing limited
modifications, would you say it is a good kit
to get?
Thanks,
Gabriel Estrada
Internet Sales Director
McCarthy
Auto Group
Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Mitsubishi, Nissan and
Hyundai
913-269-7365
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren
Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: "Team3S"
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, September 18, 2001 1:54 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: K&N
FIPK
> The real K&N FIPK is between $120 and $160 I think.
This is not that
since
> it is a cone and not an ellipse.
Regardless it is a good price.
>
> However, this is an auction with
2+ days left so it will definitely not
end
> up at $70. Good
luck.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 w/ K&N
FIPK
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:31:31
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
The cheapest and easiest thing you
can do to improve your braking is to buy
one half liter of Motul 650 and use
it to bleed your brake system. You
don't even have to remove the brake
pads to do this, just put the car on
jack stands and remove the wheels.
If you've never done this to your car, I
bet your brake fluid looks like
sewerage.
The second easiest thing you can do is to replace (at least)
the front pads,
even if you just get stock pads. The noise you hear could be
the wear
indicator onthe inboard pad. If you are going to this much trouble,
consider
upgraded pads - I am currently using Carbotech Panther/Panther Plus
on the
street and track and I think they're reasonably priced. If you
are doing
some track driving, don't bother with the Stillen Metal Matrix pads
- they
are not that much improvement over stock.
Next thing you could
do is reface the front rotors if you suspect they are
scored or
warped.
The calipers are pretty durable - you could remove and rebuild
them if you
want - you just need the seal kits. If you go to the
trouble of removing
and rebuilding the calipers, you may as well install the
stainless steel
braided lines.
That's the litany of escalation for a
stock brake system. Of course you
could replace the front calipers and
rotors with 2nd gen calipers and rotors
if you now have a 1st gen car. To go
past this, you need a chunk of cash.
Chuck Willis
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
[SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 2:02
PM
> To: Team3s Tech List
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Odd brake
caliper noises
>
> Jeff -- Great questions.
>
> Big
Red calipers fit first gen cars inside stock 17" wheels.
> Stock 2nd gen
rotors fit Big Red calipers.
> Stock 1st gen rotors will need exchanged or
sold on the list.
> Big Red calipers require stock Porsche pads or
appropriate R4S pads.
> The Big Red kit is worth it for the racy
folks.
>
> The noise could be all sorts of stuff. Try it at
speed, while creeping,
> on
> jackstands, wheel off, wheel on, new
pads, old pads, etc. It could be the
> dust shield, squeaking part
on the stock pads, or a host of things.
>
> I might have a line for
1st gen VR-4 calipers though if you or someone
> else
> wants to go
that route.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with Big Reds
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff VanOrsdal
> Sent:
Tuesday, September 18, 2001 2:31 PM
>
> Recently, I've
recently
> noticed a serious decrease in my stopping power. I used to be
able to lock
> up the wheels (no ABS) without much effort. But
lately, the car just
> isn't
> stopping very well. When I'm
parked, I can press on the brake pedal and
> actually hear a creaking
noise from the drivers side caliper.
>
> Now so that everyone
doesn't think I'm neglectful of my car, I wasn't
> planning on keeping
this recycled brake system this long. I spent so much
> money on my
engine rebuild that I've had to put the brake upgrade off.
> I've
>
got a set of Porterfield rotors that will be going on once I can afford
>
some
> R4S pads and braided lines (and some Motul, of course). I
guess the real
> question is, am I looking at caliper damage? What are
some things to look
> for if I pull the pistons out of the caliper?
I'd love to swap out the TT
> junk for a Big Red setup. But besides the
initial cost, I'm concerned
> about
> wheel clearance and the fact
that I have a set of unused rotors that I'd
> have to replace right away.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 15:22:11
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: K&N FIPK
Dutch auction? Well then you got me. It
is a good mod but I have only seen
the elliptical ones (don't know the part
number on that one). Get it if you
want since it will let the car
breathe better and that is a good thing. The
only bad part is getting
out the stock bolts inside the airbox that we have
all dealt with. It
could take 10 minutes or 60 minutes depending on how
lucky you
get.
This is a simple mod probably detailed on Jeff Lucius' or John
Adams' page I
believe. It also gets the simple mechanic to get to know
a little bit about
how the car pieces work together.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Gabriel Estrada
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 3:05
PM
Well it is a dutch auction with 25 available at that price. So,
I hear you
saying it is a good price : ) But for someone that is doing
limited
modifications, would you say it is a good kit to
get?
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 21:19:15
-0000
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK
No, it's not a FIPK, nor an Aircharger. It's
just the small cheap $45
airfilter core from K&N with the $19 and how
much for shipping ?? Is it
worth the money ? No !
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch
> The real K&N
FIPK is between $120 and $160 I think. This is not that
since
>
it is a cone and not an ellipse. Regardless it is a good
price.
>
> However, this is an auction with 2+ days left so it will
definitely not
end
> up at $70. Good luck.
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 15:23:01
EDT
From: DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Shifter pops out of 4th gear: 1994 3000gt SL
> is it probably
just worn bearings (synchros?), something that I can't fix
by
>
removing the shifter boot?
You might try removing the shift boot and
tightening the linkage. This has
helped many people fix their reverse
gear. You'll understand which linkage
when you take off the boot and
move the stick around a little. Good luck,
- -Paul -
3Si1127
Corbeau Race Seat Retailer
1992 Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK & Re-gapped plugs(0.034")
Porterfield
Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads, & SS lines
Greddy
Profec Boost Controller @ .9 Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com, www.DiabloEnterprises.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 15:23:27
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
I think it is Motul 600 to those trying
to search for it.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles
E.
The cheapest and easiest thing you can do to improve your braking is
to buy
one half liter of Motul 650 and use it to bleed your brake
system.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:39:08
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: clutch adjustible?
That is the biggest lie in the automotive
industry - spread by Mitsu factory
trained service personnel!
Look in
the Service manual - you CAN adjust where the clutch engages - it is
just a
royal pain in the rump. You have to get under the dashboard under
the
pedals and turn a shaft that actuates the clutch booster.
You need a good
clutch shop who will check your slave cylinder and master
cylinder and
properly adjust your clutch.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Richard Kerrill [SMTP:rkerrill@earthlink.net]
>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 11:30 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>
Subject: Team3S: clutch adjustible?
>
> I have a '92 SL manual
drive.
>
> Problem: The clutch must be firmly pressed all the way
down to floor when
> engaging first gear mostly also 2nd gear.
Otherwise, a bad meshing of
> gears
> and sometimes a terrible grind
occurs! Additionally, often its hard to
> get
> into
Reverse.
>
> Im worried this will cause undue harm to my sweet
SL!
>
> A mechanic told me there is no way to adjust the setting of
the clutch
> pedal
> or the amount of pressure required because it
is hydrolic.
> Is this true? Any other options? Is this
symptomatic of any other
> problems forthcoming?
>
> The
clutch was replaced once a couple years ago. Now I have about 30K of
>
132k miles on the new clutch.
>
> -RichK
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:40:43
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
Darn it, Flash, I was within
10%!
Just don't use the Motul DOT 5.1 ...
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg [SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 2:23 PM
> To: Team3s Tech List
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
>
> I think it is
Motul 600 to those trying to search for it.
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
>
> The cheapest and
easiest thing you can do to improve your braking is to
> buy
> one
half liter of Motul 650 and use it to bleed your brake system.
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 12:21:39
-0700
From: "Darc" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Odd
brake caliper noises
The Big Reds in 1st Generation stock wheels
will also need hub
modification. They just don't fit without this
spacer. Rich or Ken can
advise.
Darc
> Jeff -- Great
questions.
>
> Big Red calipers fit first gen cars inside stock 17"
wheels.
> Stock 2nd gen rotors fit Big Red calipers.
> Stock 1st gen
rotors will need exchanged or sold on the list.
> Big Red calipers require
stock Porsche pads or appropriate R4S pads.
> The Big Red kit is worth it
for the racy folks.
>
> The noise could be all sorts of stuff.
Try it at speed, while creeping,
on
> jackstands, wheel off, wheel on,
new pads, old pads, etc. It could be the
> dust shield, squeaking
part on the stock pads, or a host of things.
>
> I might have a line
for 1st gen VR-4 calipers though if you or someone
else
> wants to go
that route.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with Big
Reds
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff
VanOrsdal
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 2:31 PM
>
>
Recently, I've recently
> noticed a serious decrease in my stopping power.
I used to be able to lock
> up the wheels (no ABS) without much
effort. But lately, the car just
isn't
> stopping very
well. When I'm parked, I can press on the brake pedal and
> actually
hear a creaking noise from the drivers side caliper.
>
> Now so that
everyone doesn't think I'm neglectful of my car, I wasn't
> planning on
keeping this recycled brake system this long. I spent so much
>
money on my engine rebuild that I've had to put the brake upgrade
off.
I've
> got a set of Porterfield rotors that will be going on once
I can afford
some
> R4S pads and braided lines (and some Motul, of
course). I guess the real
> question is, am I looking at caliper
damage? What are some things to look
> for if I pull the pistons out of
the caliper? I'd love to swap out the TT
> junk for a Big Red setup.
But besides the initial cost, I'm concerned
about
> wheel clearance and
the fact that I have a set of unused rotors that I'd
> have to replace
right away. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 15:36:07
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
> The Big Reds in 1st Generation
stock wheels will also need
> hub modification. They just don't fit
without this spacer.
> Rich or Ken can advise.
BS. I
transplanted my own Big Red calipers, 2nd gen rotor, and race pads to
a
friend's 1992 VR-4 and he used them at Watkins Glen. Stock hub. The
only
thing that might make a difference is that I had him use my 1999 SL
17"
wheels. I think though that all wheels have the same offset (46mm I
think)
so 1st gen 17" wheels should be the same. Wouldn't that confirm
that Big
Reds fir 1st gen and stock wheels? Rich Merritt had these on
his car and
then added spacers but had them without spacers before.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 w/ Big Reds and 1999 SL 17" wheels for racing
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Darc [mailto:wce@telus.net]
Sent:
Tuesday, September 18, 2001 3:22 PM
The Big Reds in 1st Generation stock
wheels will also need hub
modification. They just don't fit
without this spacer. Rich or Ken can
advise.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 12:40:38
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: K&N FIPK
Go to the FAQ pages, in the Maintenance Section and
click on the Article
marked "Air Filters - Stock vs Aftermarket". Much
info there about K&N and
other filters. Most of us have the K&N
FIPK, since they are street legal
and come with a CARB label (and they are
the best, in the opinion of many of
us). www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htm
Best,
Forrest
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gabriel Estrada" <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
To:
"Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, September 18, 2001 11:23 AM
Subject: Team3S: K&N
FIPK
> Can someone kindly look at this link:
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595563614&
>
r=0&t=0
> Is this a worthwhile kit to get? Advantages to
something else that might
be on the market? My VR-4 is bone stock, and
I'm not really planning on any
major modifications till my Typhoon is
done. But this seems like a
reasonable price, and if the kit sounds
good to the majority of the list,
I'm thinking it might be a good place to
start? Opinions please : )
> Gabriel Estrada
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 13:42:20
-0600
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
- --------
+> > The
Big Reds in 1st Generation stock wheels will also need
+> > hub
modification. They just don't fit without this spacer.
+> > Rich or Ken
can advise.
+>
+> BS. I transplanted my own Big Red calipers,
2nd gen rotor, and race pads to
+> a friend's 1992 VR-4 and he used them
at Watkins Glen. Stock hub. The only
+> thing that might make
a difference is that I had him use my 1999 SL 17"
+> wheels. I think
though that all wheels have the same offset (46mm I think)
+> so 1st gen
17" wheels should be the same. Wouldn't that confirm that Big
+>
Reds fir 1st gen and stock wheels? Rich Merritt had these on his car
and
+> then added spacers but had them without spacers
before.
nope. 1st gen 17" wheels are different than 2nd gen 17"
wheels regarding
clearance issues. As I recall, Rich has aftermarket
Mille Miglia wheels.
Dave
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI
G60 = http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:42:21
-0500
From: "Oskar" <osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
K&N FIPK
Gabe,
I think you will be happy with this mod.
The air filter is generally
considered the first mod one should do.
Now, that was the easy part - now
on to the filter itself.
I am
guessing that the picture does not depict the filter you will get.
It
does say that the adapter is included. To my knowledge there are
only two
filter kits made by K&N that have adapters that fit our
cars:
57-1500 is the real F.I.P.K
63-1000 Aircharger kit for DSM
cars.
Both fit our cars. The FIPK has been CARB certified. My
understanding is
that it does not matter in most states. If the CARB
certification is of no
importance to you, then you can get by with the
Aircharger 63-1000. This
kit is intended for DSM cars, and it is not
CARB certified.
I would recommend that you ask the seller what the
K&N part number is. If
it is not one of the two I listed you can go
to http://www.knfilters.com/ to
cross
reference the part number.
As for pricing - the FIPK retails for around
$150, the Aircharger around
$80-90 if you can find it. If this auction
turns out to be for some other
filter you are most likely not getting a good
price.
Oskar
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gabriel
Estrada" <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
To:
<dschilberg@pobox.com>; "Team3S"
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, September 18, 2001 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N
FIPK
> Well it is a dutch auction with 25 available at that
price. So, I hear
you
> saying it is a good price : ) But
for someone that is doing limited
> modifications, would you say it is a
good kit to get?
> Thanks,
>
> Gabriel Estrada
>
Internet Sales Director
> McCarthy Auto Group
> Chevrolet,
Oldsmobile, Mitsubishi, Nissan and Hyundai
> 913-269-7365
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
> To:
"Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 1:54 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: K&N
FIPK
>
>
> > The real K&N FIPK is between $120 and $160
I think. This is not that
> since
> > it is a cone and not
an ellipse. Regardless it is a good price.
> >
> >
However, this is an auction with 2+ days left so it will definitely not
>
end
> > up at $70. Good luck.
> >
> >
--Flash!
> > 1995 VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:46:22
-0500
From: "Oskar" <osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: More
on K&N
Forwarding an e-mail Jeff Lucius sent out back in
February. Excellent
description of the various K&N filters for our
cars.
Oskar
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius"
<stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 02, 2001 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Picture of an
installed K&M Filtercharger needed (OFF
TOPIC)
> K&N
Filtercharger (part #33-2045) - This is a direct replacement for
> the
factory "box-shaped" air filter. The stock air box and funnel
> remain in
place.
>
> K&N Aircharger (part #63-1000) - Made for the 95-99
DSM Turbo but
> fits all 3S factory MAS units. It has a bolt in the end
cover for
> your (optional) fabricated mounting bracket. It is about 1
inch
> longer than the FIPK, and replaces the stock air box and funnel
using
> an adapter to connect to the MAS.
>
> K&N FIPK
(part #57-1500) - (Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit)
> Made for all
year 3S cars, it has 2 brackets made for the 3S with no
> weird bolt
sticking out of the end cover. It is a bit shorter than
> the Aircharger.
It may have a CARB sticker. It replaces the stock air
> box and funnel
using an adapter to connect to the MAS.
>
> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-k&nguide.htm
>
>
Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:51:36
-0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
> I think though that all wheels
have the same offset (46mm I think)
>so 1st gen 17" wheels should be the
same. Wouldn't that confirm that Big
>Reds fir 1st gen and stock
wheels? Rich Merritt had these on his car and
>then added spacers
but had them without spacers before.
>
Yes I did, but I have a 94. I
don't think Big Reds fit 1st gen wheels.
Rich
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 22:01:46
-0000
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK
I think you will not be happy with this mod as
the thing you want to buy on
ebay is NOT A FIPK at all ! It steals power due
to the fact that it is the
little filter core for up to 2l engines. If one of
you guys don't believe me
than buy one. It comes with a oval to round adapter
for any round filter
core. This has NOTHING to do with the FIPK nor the
Aircharger as it is much
smaller in it size. Unfortunately, I cannot send any
pics as I have thrown
away the adapter due to its bad
quality.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Oskar" <osk@mediaone.net>
To: "Team3S" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, September 18, 2001 7:42 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N
FIPK
> Gabe,
>
> I think you will be happy with this
mod. The air filter is generally
> considered the first mod one
should do. Now, that was the easy part - now
> on to the filter
itself.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 16:18:17
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
Ahhh. Well that solves it.
Sorry to confuse everyone. Next time I will
stick to my own car's
info. :)
- --Flash! and second gen VR-4 owner
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001
3:52 PM
I don't think Big Reds fit 1st gen wheels.
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1 #615
***************************************
Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, September 19 2001 Volume 01 :
Number
616
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:07:23 -0400
From: "Scott Beydler" <
dahogrydr@triad.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch pedal? plain text
Sorry. I forgot to send this
without any format.
I sent this last week but I guess it got mixed up in
the domain shuffle.
I was driving my 1994 Dodge Stealth (base model)
tonight and noticed the
clutch pedal starting to become soft. It
continued to get progressively
worse to the point where it would be almost an
inch or two from the
floorboard before actually engaging the clutch. By
the time I was close to
my house the clutch pedal was completely inoperable
and on the floor. It
went from not engaging the clutch when depressing
the pedal to now where the
pedal is all the way down on the floor and won't
rebound to it's original
position.
I might be stupid and the obvious
problem is that the clutch has gone out.
However, I was hoping that there
might be some adjustment that has gone out
of whack and the clutch isn't the
root problem. Anyone who has had similar
experience with this problem
please let me know what you think and would
suggest.
Thanks
Scott
Beydler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:08:07
-0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch pedal? plain text
Sounds like a leaking hose of
slave/master cylinder, not the clutch. Check
the level and look for
leaks. The slave is on top of the transmission and
the master is below
the brake booster.
Good Luck,
Kevin Schappell
http://kevin.schappell.comSave money
on all of your speed parts.
http://www.SpeedShoppers.com>
I was driving my 1994 Dodge Stealth (base model) tonight and noticed the
>
clutch pedal starting to become soft. It continued to get
progressively
> worse to the point where it would be almost an inch or two
from the
> floorboard before actually engaging the clutch. By the
time I
> was close to
> my house the clutch pedal was completely
inoperable and on the floor. It
> went from not engaging the clutch
when depressing the pedal to
> now where the
> pedal is all the way
down on the floor and won't rebound to it's original
> position.
> I
might be stupid and the obvious problem is that the clutch has gone out.
>
However, I was hoping that there might be some adjustment that
> has gone
out
> of whack and the clutch isn't the root problem. Anyone who
has
> had similar
> experience with this problem please let me know
what you think and would
> suggest.
> Thanks
> Scott
Beydler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:14:21
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch pedal? plain text
Most likely, you have a leak
in the hydraulics for the clutch. Check the
Clutch master cylinder for
fluid. Check around the master cyl for fluid
leak. You could try
to refill, but if there is a leak, it will just end up
on the garage
floor. Use a flashlight to see under the battery area for the
slave
cylinder mounted on the trans. Probably lots of hydraulic
fluid
there. If so, you need to rebuild or replace the slave
cylinder.
Jim
95 3000GT VR4 Spyder
91 3000GT VR4 (Just
sold)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:21:06
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch pedal? plain text
Hey Scott. I think a soft
pedal is a lot cheaper than a worn clutch. Try
checking the clutch
fluid reservoir (the little white cap in the very back
Driver's side corner
of the engine bay near the brake fluid reservoir). If
there is no fluid
then you will have no pedal pressure.
Perhaps it is a leaking master
slave cylinder. I had this problem. The
clutch pedal would be
tight when I get it from the dealer but two days later
it is real soft.
I had a leaking master (or slave cylinder) but that solved
it for
me.
Finally, if it is a clutch then you can be in 3rd gear going up an
incline
and go to WOT and you will maintain the same speed but the RPMs will
rise.
I could do this in every single gear when my clutch was really
wearing.
Early on it happened only in 6th, then 5th gear and then crept
slowly down
through the gears.
Step 1 above is cheap (it might need
flushed or bled). Step 2 is a bit
pricey but gives you a good clutch
cylinder for 100,000+ miles. Step 3 is a
bit more pricey since the
clutch and most likely the cylinder would get
changed.
-
--Flash!
1005 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Scott
Beydler
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 5:07 PM
Sorry. I
forgot to send this without any format.
I sent this last week but I guess
it got mixed up in the domain shuffle.
I was driving my 1994 Dodge
Stealth (base model) tonight and noticed the
clutch pedal starting to become
soft. It continued to get progressively
worse to the point where it
would be almost an inch or two from the
floorboard before actually engaging
the clutch. By the time I was close to
my house the clutch pedal was
completely inoperable and on the floor. It
went from not engaging the
clutch when depressing the pedal to now where the
pedal is all the way down
on the floor and won't rebound to it's original
position.
I might be
stupid and the obvious problem is that the clutch has gone out.
However, I
was hoping that there might be some adjustment that has gone out
of whack and
the clutch isn't the root problem. Anyone who has had
similar
experience with this problem please let me know what you think and
would
suggest.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 18:50:48
-0400
From: "Scott Beydler" <
dahogrydr@triad.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch pedal
I found the master cylinder next to the brake
booster and it is definitely
empty. I couldn't find the slave cylinder
on the tranny. Looked all over
but didn't see anything I thought could
be it. The inside of the master
cylinder has a lot of gunk
buildup. I looked under the battery mount and
under the car.
There was no fluid residue anywhere. The whole
undercarriage is clean
as a whistle as is everything under the hood. Is
there a special kind
of fluid to fill the master cylinder with? Thanks
Scott
Beydler
1994 Dodge Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 18 Sep 2001 17:12:21
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FIPK Clone and Precat sound.
I bought a FIPK clone From Turbo
Mufflers several months ago and I just got around to installing it. At the
time it was only $58 plus shipping His new kit is slightly different in
that it is supposed to use a real K&N filter.
I can't notice any
performance gains but, no Honking goose noise yet. I am assuming that is
because it is not as free flowing as a FIPK. I am not upset because the
price was so low, but If I did it again I would get a Real FIPK.
For
Pictures and more details see my post on 3si.
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=158d797f0f1b2fc90c6ea2075a4d64af&postid=338209&t=2708#post338209P.S.
I am still looking for feedback from people who have gutted pre-cats. Does
you exhaust crackle when you let off the gas? Mine does and I want
to make sure that this is normal.
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:15:55
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch pedal
If the master cylinder is dry, then there IS a
leak. The fluid does
not evaporate or get used up. Fill the MC with cheap DOT
3 brake
fluid. Remove the battery and have a friend press on the
clutch
pedal. With a flashlight look in the engine bay at the clutch
hose
and slave cylinder. My web pages below identify these for you
(at
least for a '92 TT). There IS a leak somewhere, you have to find it.
I
said use cheap DOT 3 above because you will have to drain the
system to
repair it. Use a good DOT 4 brake fluid when the leak is
fixed. Ate Typ-200
is a superb DOT 4 brake fluid for the clutch at
~$8.50 per liter. You need
like 4 oz for the whole clutch system.
Clutch bleeding:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/blucius/b-2-clutchbleeding.htmClutch
hose repair:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/blucius/b-2-clutchhose.htmBattery
and washer tank removal:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/blucius/b-2-batteryout.htmBrake
fluid info:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-brakeupgrade.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ---
Scott Beydler <
dahogrydr@triad.rr.com>
wrote:
> I found the master cylinder next to the brake booster and it
is
> definitely
> empty. I couldn't find the slave cylinder on
the tranny. Looked
> all over
> but didn't see anything I
thought could be it. The inside of the
> master
> cylinder has
a lot of gunk buildup. I looked under the battery
> mount
and
> under the car. There was no fluid residue anywhere. The
whole
> undercarriage is clean as a whistle as is everything under
the
> hood. Is
> there a special kind of fluid to fill the
master cylinder with?
> Thanks
> Scott Beydler
>
>
1994 Dodge Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 20:23:47
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Clutch Fuild? Any recommended brand?
Speaking of
clutches.... Is there a recommended clutch fluid we should use?
From my knowledge, it doesn't undergo such extreme conditions that brake
fluid does. Would it be safe to just use regular DOT3 brake/clutch
fluid?
Thanks,
- -Paul - 3Si1127
1992 Green
RT/TT
K&N FIPK & Re-gapped
plugs(0.034")
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads,
& SS lines
Greddy Profec Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com,
www.DiabloEnterprises.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 20:25:57
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: FIPK Clone and Precat sound.
> I am still looking for
feedback from people who have gutted pre-cats.
Does
> you
exhaust crackle when you let off the gas? Mine does and I want to
make
> sure that this is normal.
This may be a sign of a leak
in the exhaust somewhere. Did you replace all
the gaskets when you put
the exhaust back on? Anyone have any comments on
this idea?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 19:41:21
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: FIPK Clone and Precat sound.
> I am still looking for
feedback from people who have
> gutted pre-cats. Does you exhaust
crackle when you
> let off the gas? Mine does and I want to
make
> sure that this is normal.
Mine did when I had a vented
blowoff valve on the car. I assume it is
because the car was injecting
extra fuel for the lost air and that extra was
igniting in the exhaust
manifold/turbo. Stopped when I put the stock valve
back on and didn't
return when I installed a DSM blowoff valve.
Every once in a while if I'm
at really high RPM and boosting hard it'll
backfire just a wee little bit
when slowing down, but not very often at all.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:51:06
-0700
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch pedal
"I found the master cylinder next to the brake
booster and it is definitely
empty. I couldn't find the slave cylinder
on the tranny. Looked all over
but didn't see anything I thought could
be it."
The slave is located on top of the tranny. Get a shop
manual if necessary.
You can trace the shift linkage from the intake area
back toward the slave
cylinder. If you can't find the shift linkage,
get a partner to move the
stick while you are looking near the
intake.
"The inside of the master cylinder has a lot of gunk
buildup. I looked
under the battery mount and under the car.
There was no fluid residue
anywhere."
The top of my 5 speed tranny has
a spot where fluid could collect, but the
whole system should hold enough
fluid to overflow that area.
"Is there a special kind of fluid to fill
the master cylinder with?"
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I
believe you can use regular brake
fluid in here. You will need to add
the fluid and confirm where the leak is
happening. I believe it is
possible to rebuild either master or slave
cylinders by purchasing the seal
kits, but if the pistons are pitted you
should replace the
units.
Jim
95 3000GT VR4 Spyder
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 18:32:39
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
FIPK Clone and Precat sound.
There was no change in exhaust noise when I
gutted the precats --- I did
however get a lot of crackle and popping when I
put in the test pipe I use
for
racing.
Jim
Berry
==============================================
> > I am
still looking for feedback from people who have
> > gutted
pre-cats. Does you exhaust crackle when you
> > let off the
gas? Mine does and I want to make
> > sure that this is
normal.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 18:54:41
-0600
From: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Poor Gas mileage and getting worse
Over the past 8 months my gas
mileage has gone done from about 18 mpg to
just under 16. I am not driving
the car any harder than usual or taking a
different route. My highway mileage
has gone way down too from about 29-32
to about 25mpg.
my car is a 92 RT
TT with 47k on it now. My only mods are K&N FIPK, Borla
Catback, and ATR
downpipe with test pipe so I dont have a main cat
Here is what I can
think of:
Air filter: just recently cleaned it
Tire pressure:
checked it ok
PCV valve: replaced it 2000 miles ago (gas mileage went up
for a little bit
then back down)
Spark plugs: checked them appeared ok
but from 1992
Wires: replaced front 3 (rest are from 92 as
well)
O2 sensor(s): How many are there and could this be the
cause?
Fuel filter: how many are there?
Ever since I purchased to
car I noticed black soot at the tail pipes. Am I
burning rich? how do I fix
this?
Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated
Thanks!
Greg
Gonzales
92 RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 19:11:08
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Poor
Gas mileage and getting worse
Black soot is normal. Mine has been that
way from day 1. They burn rich and
even moreso with a test pipe. 1 O2 sensor
is all you have. Try another PCV,
and insure your air cleaner doesn't
have too much oil spray limiting intake.
The only other thing I can
think of is switching to another fuel. Try
Chevron, or if using that, try
another.
Best
Darc
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
To:
"Stealth Net" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, September 18, 2001 5:54 PM
Subject: Team3S: Poor Gas mileage and
getting worse
> Over the past 8 months my gas mileage has gone done
from about 18 mpg to
> just under 16. I am not driving the car any harder
than usual or taking a
> different route. My highway mileage has gone way
down too from about 29-32
> to about 25mpg.
> my car is a 92 RT TT
with 47k on it now. My only mods are K&N FIPK, Borla
> Catback, and
ATR downpipe with test pipe so I dont have a main cat
>
> Here is
what I can think of:
>
> Air filter: just recently cleaned
it
>
> Tire pressure: checked it ok
>
> PCV valve:
replaced it 2000 miles ago (gas mileage went up for a little
bit
> then
back down)
>
> Spark plugs: checked them appeared ok but from
1992
>
> Wires: replaced front 3 (rest are from 92 as
well)
>
> O2 sensor(s): How many are there and could this be the
cause?
>
> Fuel filter: how many are there?
>
> Ever
since I purchased to car I noticed black soot at the tail pipes. Am I
>
burning rich? how do I fix this?
>
> Any ideas or suggestions are
appreciated
> Thanks!
> Greg Gonzales
> 92 RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 22:56:18
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Turbo
magazine back issue request (RWD VR4 info)
This isn't strictly technical,
but hopefully it could be. I'm looking to
find the issue of Turbo
Magazine that featured a green 1G VR4 that had been
converted to true
RWD. The car had a weird 1G/2G hybrid front end, and
flared rear
fenders. The engine had been rotated 90 degrees and was mated
to a
Porsche 928 transaxle (I think) I believe the car was somewhere
in
South America last time anyone heard of it.
If anyone has a copy of
this article, I am willing to pay for it. I'll even
pay for photocopies
of it so long as the text is legible. At the very
least, I want to know
how the conversion was done. If it's even remotely
feasible, I'm going
to attempt it myself. If anyone has solid information
on and other RWD
3S cars, let me know. I know Bee*R supposedly did one, but
I don't have
anything more than rumors on it.
Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin
Turbo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 22:06:28
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbo magazine back issue request (RWD VR4 info)
You might
contact Buschur Racing
www.buschurracing.com They have
the
RWD Talon (originally AWD). With the 3/S and DSM being at least
similar
in construction, Dave probably has a lot of tips for you. I
honestly
wouldn't think it's be that bad... I mean - use a different
transaxle,
or a modified 3/S transaxle, and some sort of Porsche or Ford
(9-bolt)
rear end (I'm sure there are more available, but those I've heard
about
more than others). You would need a custom drive shaft, custom
exhaust
and intake, and relocation of some components under the hood
to
different locations...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jeff VanOrsdal
Sent:
Tuesday, September 18, 2001 9:56 PM
To: Team3s Tech List
Subject: Team3S:
Turbo magazine back issue request (RWD VR4 info)
This isn't strictly
technical, but hopefully it could be. I'm looking
to
find the issue
of Turbo Magazine that featured a green 1G VR4 that had
been
converted to
true RWD. The car had a weird 1G/2G hybrid front end, and
flared rear
fenders. The engine had been rotated 90 degrees and was
mated
to a
Porsche 928 transaxle (I think) I believe the car was somewhere
in
South America last time anyone heard of it.
If anyone has a copy of
this article, I am willing to pay for it. I'll
even
pay for
photocopies of it so long as the text is legible. At the very
least, I
want to know how the conversion was done. If it's
even
remotely
feasible, I'm going to attempt it myself. If anyone
has solid
information
on and other RWD 3S cars, let me know. I know
Bee*R supposedly did one,
but
I don't have anything more than rumors on
it.
Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 20:29:45
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S:
rotors
Here's a question Team
Will a second gen rotor bolt
onto a first gen without replacing the first
gen calipers? I assume the
second gen rotor is superior to the first gen,
so why not replace if it's
time if one can. Thoughts solicited.
Best
Darc
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 20:51:35
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: rotors
I feel it is superior..much better cooling at the
hub.
On Tue, 18 Sep 2001, Darc wrote:
> Here's a question
Team
>
> Will a second gen rotor bolt onto a first gen
without replacing the first
> gen calipers? I assume the second gen
rotor is superior to the first gen,
> so why not replace if it's time if
one can. Thoughts solicited.
>
> Best
>
>
Darc
* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 23:57:17
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
Sending this to the list so it can be
captured in the archives for people to
search for the correct
answer.
Does anyone know how close this interference is? I did
install the AP
6-piston brake calipers, AP rotors under his VR-4 Spyder
wheels and there
was an interference of a few thickness of chrome
plating. Once or twice
around with the wheel and it was a custom
fit.
If it is any more interference than this then it definitely will not
work.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 6:29
PM
The problem with 17" '91-'93 Stealth (and I assume VR-4) wheels and
the '94+
stock brakes (and Big Reds) is not an offset issue - the spokes
clear just
fine. The problem is that the internal diameter of the wheel
is
ever-so-slightly too small to clear the caliper (the surface
perpendicular
to the rotor surface). You can put the wheels on and line
them up on the
lugs, but when you tighten the lugs, the caliper binds against
the inner
surface of the wheel (not the spokes).
- --Erik
'95 VR-4
with way too many wheels -
18" '95 stock
wheels
17" '91 TT wheels that don't fit and are to
be
installed on a friend's 3G
Eclipse soon
17" '96 VR-4 Spyder Wheels on a FedEx
truck
somewhere between Houston
and Seattle
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 21:17:47
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
Wow..thats too close.
Doesnt
seem to allow much for wheel bending (all wheels bend when racing)
and
bearing play over time.
On Tue, 18 Sep 2001, Darren Schilberg
wrote:
> Sending this to the list so it can be captured in the
archives for people to
> search for the correct answer.
>
>
Does anyone know how close this interference is? I did install the
AP
> 6-piston brake calipers, AP rotors under his VR-4 Spyder wheels and
there
> was an interference of a few thickness of chrome plating.
Once or twice
> around with the wheel and it was a custom fit.
>
> If it is any more interference than this then it definitely will not
work.
>
> --Flash!
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 6:29 PM
>
> The problem with 17"
'91-'93 Stealth (and I assume VR-4) wheels and the '94+
> stock brakes
(and Big Reds) is not an offset issue - the spokes clear just
>
fine. The problem is that the internal diameter of the wheel is
>
ever-so-slightly too small to clear the caliper (the surface
perpendicular
> to the rotor surface). You can put the wheels on and
line them up on the
> lugs, but when you tighten the lugs, the caliper
binds against the inner
> surface of the wheel (not the spokes).
>
> --Erik
> '95 VR-4 with way too many wheels
-
> 18" '95 stock
wheels
> 17" '91 TT wheels that don't fit and are
to be
> installed on a
friend's 3G Eclipse soon
> 17" '96 VR-4 Spyder
Wheels on a FedEx truck
>
somewhere between Houston and Seattle
* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 00:02:50
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: clutch adjustible?
No, it is not the biggest lie. The clutch is
adjustable but only within a
small range and, if properly adjusted, cannot
really be changed much. If
you try to turn this shaft out too much there
will be no free play. This
may mean that there will be pressure accumulating
in the clutch hydraulic
circuit and clutch will not be fully
disengaging.
My advice is to turn this shaft out as much as possible but
not reduce the
minimum free play below recommended in the manual. The second
thing is to
bleed the clutch. I think there is a way to do this with only
removing the
battery and not the intake manifold, although I have not tried
it myself yet.
Philip
At 02:39 PM 09/18/01, Willis, Charles E.
wrote:
>That is the biggest lie in the automotive industry - spread by
Mitsu factory
>trained service personnel!
>
>Look in the
Service manual - you CAN adjust where the clutch engages - it is
>just a
royal pain in the rump. You have to get under the dashboard
under
>the pedals and turn a shaft that actuates the clutch
booster.
>
>You need a good clutch shop who will check your slave
cylinder and master
>cylinder and properly adjust your
clutch.
>
>Chuck Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 21:05:05
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: rotors
The 2nd gens are larger diameter. I'm not sure if they are
so large they
will interfere with the body of the 1st gen caliper though. I
assume they
will, because the clearance is pretty tight even with the 1st
gen
rotor/caliper setup.
W
At 08:29 PM 9/18/01 , Darc
wrote:
>Will a second gen rotor bolt onto a first gen without
replacing the first
>gen calipers?
.
>
>Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 21:15:38
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo magazine back issue request (RWD VR4 info)
I have what i
believe is a condensed version of the article. It's in a
special edition
"The best of Turbo". The article is 1 1/2 pages, minus a
few photos. Oddly
enough, i also have an in car video showing why the guy
ended up doing this
conversion (100+mph rollover in his first VR-4) My car
has all the
suspension off the one he totaled in the video.
W
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 23:18:54
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
> Does anyone know how close this
interference is? I did
> install the AP 6-piston brake calipers, AP
rotors under his
> VR-4 Spyder wheels and there was an interference of a
few
> thickness of chrome plating. Once or twice around with the
> wheel and it was a custom fit.
You are kidding, right?
It
really does amaze me what seems to pass for acceptable engineering on
this
list these days.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 00:31:45
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Turbo magazine back issue request (RWD VR4 info)
But we all know
that AWD is (usually) superior to RWD especially in a road
course
situation. He probably did the conversion because he was from the
RWD
days or learned that way and can oversteer like a madman through a turn
to
save his life.
But like some road course drivers will enforce, the AWD
makes us a better
driver than we really are and it has saved our metal more
than once. I
don't think too many people will dispute that technically,
the AWD/AWS
system on the VR-4 will best any RWD car in traction and
control. Most
likely it is the driver's fault in not learning the AWD
that makes them
dangerous. This, however, is not a race driving list
but technically I
don't think there is much of a dispute.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 with rollbar
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Wayne
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 12:16 AM
I have what i
believe is a condensed version of the article. It's in a
special edition "The
best of Turbo". The article is 1 1/2 pages, minus a
few photos. Oddly enough,
i also have an in car video showing why the guy
ended up doing this
conversion (100+mph rollover in his first VR-4) My car
has all the suspension
off the one he totaled in the video.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 23:31:17
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Poor Gas mileage and getting worse
Correction - on a '92 TT there are two
O2 sensors. One for each cylinder
bank.
Oskar
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
To: "Greg Gonzales" <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>; "Stealth
Net"
<
stealth@stls.verio.net>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, September 18, 2001 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Poor Gas mileage and
getting worse
> Black soot is normal. Mine has been that way from day
1. They burn rich
and
> even moreso with a test pipe. 1 O2 sensor is
all you have. Try another
PCV,
> and insure your air cleaner
doesn't have too much oil spray limiting
intake.
> The only other
thing I can think of is switching to another fuel. Try
> Chevron, or
if using that, try another.
>
> Best
>
>
Darc
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg Gonzales"
<
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
> To:
"Stealth Net" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 5:54 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Poor Gas
mileage and getting worse
>
> > Over the past 8 months my gas
mileage has gone done from about 18 mpg to
> > just under 16. I am not
driving the car any harder than usual or taking
a
> > different
route. My highway mileage has gone way down too from about
29-32
> >
to about 25mpg.
> > my car is a 92 RT TT with 47k on it now. My only
mods are K&N FIPK,
Borla
> > Catback, and ATR downpipe with test
pipe so I dont have a main cat
> >
> > Here is what I can
think of:
> >
> > Air filter: just recently cleaned it
>
>
> > Tire pressure: checked it ok
> >
> > PCV
valve: replaced it 2000 miles ago (gas mileage went up for a little
>
bit
> > then back down)
> >
> > Spark plugs: checked
them appeared ok but from 1992
> >
> > Wires: replaced front 3
(rest are from 92 as well)
> >
> > O2 sensor(s): How many are
there and could this be the cause?
> >
> > Fuel filter: how
many are there?
> >
> > Ever since I purchased to car I
noticed black soot at the tail pipes. Am
I
> > burning rich? how do
I fix this?
> >
> > Any ideas or suggestions are
appreciated
> > Thanks!
> > Greg Gonzales
> > 92 RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 00:34:37
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
Who said it was acceptable
Engineering. This is what AP Racing sent as far
as rotors, calipers,
offset, etc. The Spyder VR-4 wheels were the only
thing not
changed. For $4k you would think they would get the
distance
correct.
It is not my car. I merely did the mod.
If it breaks then I do not pay for
it. I hope the person well who races
this setup. It did work tremendously
for most of a day and some at
Poconos on the full course.
Just like Stillen DPs that don't fit the
second gen cars I guess. Some
things have not been made to fit
correctly on our cars still.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001
12:19 AM
> Does anyone know how close this interference is? I
did
> install the AP 6-piston brake calipers, AP rotors under his
>
VR-4 Spyder wheels and there was an interference of a few
> thickness of
chrome plating. Once or twice around with the
> wheel and it was a
custom fit.
You are kidding, right?
It really does amaze me what
seems to pass for acceptable engineering on
this list these
days.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 23:56:29
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbo magazine back issue request (RWD VR4 info)
> But
like some road course drivers will enforce, the AWD makes
> us a better
driver than we really are and it has saved our
> metal more than
once. I don't think too many people will
> dispute that
technically, the AWD/AWS system on the VR-4 will
> best any RWD car in
traction and control. Most likely it is
> the driver's fault in not
learning the AWD that makes them
> dangerous. This, however, is not
a race driving list but
> technically I don't think there is much of a
dispute.
I agree that the AWD/AWS can make up to some extent for poor
driving and
allow average drivers to go faster with more control. Once
you pass the
limits (which are* rather high) these cars can be real quick to
fly straight
off the road. Don't make the mistake of relying on the
AWD/AWS to save you
from yourself - at some point it just won't be
enough.
It isn't necessarily not knowing how the AWD/AWS reacts.
Once you cross
past the cornering limits there isn't much left to grab
control back with.
The limits are probably higher than most people think, but
they are still
there.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 23:31:01
-0600
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: Front Cat
sucsessfully Gutted!!
Well that went well! The front cat is now
Gutted and I did notice a
sizable increase in power. My spool up time
decreased significantly and my
turbos are a lot louder. I didn't notice
much of a difference in sound
other that the turbo spool.
Does it seem odd
to anyone else that mitsubishi would put a second cat on
only the front
turbo? Doesn't that misbalance the back pressure on the
engine?
Or is there another cat inside the T junction by the back turbo
that I don't
know about?
Ken, thanks for the advice about the routing bits, they worked
wonders.
Marc, you said the rear one is not worth it, do you mean the work is
not
worth is or that I won't see that same kind oh HP gain? I'm trying
to
decide whether to do the rear one or not...
Something I didn't know
about is those stupid studs they put on the cat
instead of bolts. This
makes the cat impossible to remove without taking
the nuts off the bottom of
the rear turbo and dropping down the T junction.
Everyone, thanks for all the
great advice!!
T.J.
92' 3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 22:51:31
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front Cat sucsessfully Gutted!!
Huh?
Both turbos have
two cats to go thru..why would you think different?
On Tue, 18 Sep 2001,
Thomas Jeys wrote:
> Well that went well! The front cat is now
Gutted and I did notice a
> sizable increase in power. My spool up
time decreased significantly and my
> turbos are a lot louder. I
didn't notice much of a difference in sound
> other that the turbo
spool.
> Does it seem odd to anyone else that mitsubishi would put a
second cat on
> only the front turbo? Doesn't that misbalance the
back pressure on the
> engine? Or is there another cat inside the T
junction by the back turbo
> that I don't know about?
> Ken, thanks
for the advice about the routing bits, they worked wonders.
> Marc, you
said the rear one is not worth it, do you mean the work is not
> worth is
or that I won't see that same kind oh HP gain? I'm trying to
>
decide whether to do the rear one or not...
> Something I didn't know
about is those stupid studs they put on the cat
> instead of bolts.
This makes the cat impossible to remove without taking
> the nuts off the
bottom of the rear turbo and dropping down the T junction.
> Everyone,
thanks for all the great advice!!
>
>
> T.J.
> 92'
3000GT VR-4
* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 17:50:28
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch pedal
There is a flexible hose that leads to the slave
cylinder, this has a
tendancy to develop pinhole leaks, it would pay to check
it.
Steve
> If the master cylinder is dry, then there IS a
leak. The fluid does
> not evaporate or get used up. Fill the MC with
cheap DOT 3 brake
> fluid. Remove the battery and have a friend press on
the clutch
> pedal. With a flashlight look in the engine bay at the clutch
hose
> and slave cylinder. My web pages below identify these for you
(at
> least for a '92 TT). There IS a leak somewhere, you have to find
it.
> I said use cheap DOT 3 above because you will have to drain
the
> system to repair it. Use a good DOT 4 brake fluid when the leak
is
> fixed. Ate Typ-200 is a superb DOT 4 brake fluid for the clutch
at
> ~$8.50 per liter. You need like 4 oz for the whole clutch
system.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 17:57:36
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Poor Gas mileage and getting worse
Oxygen sensors fail
regularly and make it run rich, mine did.
Steve
PS not all members
of this list have USA spec cars, our Jap spec cars have
only one oxygen
sensor.
> Correction - on a '92 TT there are two O2 sensors. One
for each cylinder
> bank.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 00:11:41
-0600
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Cat
sucsessfully Gutted!!
When I was under the car, I pulled out the cat that
comes directly off the
front turbo and gutted it. I saw the rear cat
(the one that is about a foot
and a half long) right after the flexible pipe
but didn't touch it. Is
there a cat that comes right off the rear turbo
as well that I missed? Is it
in the T junction?
http://www.3si.org/member-home/stim3/tim_11-04.gif
On the turbo model it
only shows 2 cats, is what it calls the "Front Pipe"
another one?
T.J.
92' 3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 08:23:22
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch pedal
Just use good brake fluid, I use DOT
4.
Again, find the leak or the fluid will wind up on the floor.
Check the
slave cylinder. It's the most common location of leaks in the
clutch
hydralic system.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Scott Beydler [SMTP:dahogrydr@triad.rr.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 5:51 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch pedal
>
> I found the master cylinder next
to the brake booster and it is definitely
> empty. I couldn't find
the slave cylinder on the tranny. Looked all over
> but didn't see
anything I thought could be it. The inside of the master
> cylinder
has a lot of gunk buildup. I looked under the battery mount and
>
under the car. There was no fluid residue anywhere. The
whole
> undercarriage is clean as a whistle as is everything under the
hood. Is
> there a special kind of fluid to fill the master cylinder
with? Thanks
> Scott Beydler
>
> 1994 Dodge
Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 08:29:53
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Poor Gas mileage and getting worse
> Spark plugs: checked
them appeared ok but from 1992
>
> Wires: replaced front 3 (rest
are from 92 as well)
[Willis, Charles E.]
Replace the plugs and
other three wires. While you're at it clean
out the intake manifold
plenum with solvent before reinstalling it. You
might also clean the
EGR valve. If you went to the trouble to inspect the
plugs, you
should've changed them, but I bet you didn't look at the
back
three.
> O2 sensor(s): How many are there and could this be
the cause?
>
> Fuel filter: how many are there?
>
[Willis, Charles E.] There's one, under the battery on
the
firewall. There's a vapor filter back on the gas tank, but that
doesn't
matter.
> Ever since I purchased to car I noticed black
soot at the tail pipes. Am I
> burning rich? how do I fix this?
>
> Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated
> Thanks!
> Greg
Gonzales
> 92 RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 08:33:11
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: rotors
no. The 1st gen front calipers will not clear
the 2nd gen rotor. That's
why the 2nd gen frront calipers are different
- the stick out farther from
the hub - the pistons and all are identical to
1st gen.
I suppose an imaginative person could fabricate an adapter that
would extend
the reach of the 1st gen calipers.
Chuck
Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darc
[SMTP:wce@telus.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 10:30 PM
>
To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: rotors
>
> Here's a question
Team
>
> Will a second gen rotor bolt onto a first gen
without replacing the first
> gen calipers? I assume the second gen
rotor is superior to the first gen,
> so why not replace if it's time if
one can. Thoughts solicited.
>
> Best
>
>
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 06:21:12
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Poor Gas mileage and getting worse
Greg,
One item I
didn't see on your list was pressure testing the intake
track. Do this to see
if you have developed a leak somewhere -
split/cracked hose, leak in IC or
TB, etc. When air leaks out after
the MAS (assuming you are not running a
VPC), the ECM cannot
compensate and so the fuel mixture richens.
I
found a HUGE leak in my right IC (Alamo type, cracks where end caps
welded
onto body). Car ran fine (drove it to Norwalk DSM shootout and
back from
Colorado). But gas mileage was so-so (14-16 in town, 20 on
highways) and
boost was limited to 16-18 psi and seemed generally
"wimpy". My web page
below shows hows to build a tester for less than
$20. 3SX sells one also for
about $60.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius3/j3-2-pressuretester.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ---
Greg Gonzales <
greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
wrote:
> Over the past 8 months my gas mileage has gone done from about
18
> mpg to just under 16.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 06:16:32
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front Cat sucsessfully Gutted!!
Hi T>J>
Yep.
Rear pre-cat attaches to the rear turbo.
Doesn't show in the
gif. And the rear one is usually
the most difficult to
gut.
Be of good cheer,
John
- --- Thomas Jeys <
tj@jeys.net> wrote:
> When I was under
the car, I pulled out the cat that
> comes directly off the
> front
turbo and gutted it. I saw the rear cat (the
> one that is about a
foot
> and a half long) right after the flexible pipe but
> didn't
touch it. Is
> there a cat that comes right off the rear turbo
as
> well that I missed? Is it
> in the T junction?
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/stim3/tim_11-04.gif>
On the turbo model it
> only shows 2 cats, is what it calls the "Front
Pipe"
> another one?
>
> T.J.
> 92' 3000GT
VR-4
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 08:36:44
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: clutch adjustible?
So the point of clutch engagement is
adjustable, but saying it is NOT
adjustable is NOT a LIE?
If not a
lie, it is certainly well short of the truth.
Chuck Willis
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Philip V. Glazatov
[SMTP:gphilip@umich.edu]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 12:03
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: clutch adjustible?
>
> No, it is not the
biggest lie. The clutch is adjustable but only within a
> small range
and, if properly adjusted, cannot really be changed much. If
> you try to
turn this shaft out too much there will be no free play. This
> may mean
that there will be pressure accumulating in the clutch hydraulic
>
circuit and clutch will not be fully disengaging.
>
> My advice is
to turn this shaft out as much as possible but not reduce the
>
>
minimum free play below recommended in the manual. The second thing is to
> bleed the clutch. I think there is a way to do this with only removing
the
>
> battery and not the intake manifold, although I have not
tried it myself
> yet.
>
> Philip
>
> At 02:39
PM 09/18/01, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> >That is the biggest lie in
the automotive industry - spread by Mitsu
> factory
> >trained
service personnel!
> >
> >Look in the Service manual - you CAN
adjust where the clutch engages - it
> is
> >just a royal pain in
the rump. You have to get under the dashboard under
> >the pedals
and turn a shaft that actuates the clutch booster.
> >
> >You
need a good clutch shop who will check your slave cylinder and master
>
>cylinder and properly adjust your clutch.
> >
> >Chuck
Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 08:41:32
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbo magazine back issue request (RWD VR4 info)
I find AWD
to be very tolerant of my mediocre driving skills, but you can't
defy the
laws of physics and stay on the track. I can't imaging someone
going to
that much trouble to disable the FWD on our cars, unless he just
couldn't
figure out how to deal with or tune out the understeer.
Chuck
Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch, Matt
[SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 11:56
PM
> To: Team3s Tech List
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo magazine back
issue request (RWD VR4 info)
>
> > But like some road course
drivers will enforce, the AWD makes
> > us a better driver than we
really are and it has saved our
> > metal more than once. I
don't think too many people will
> > dispute that technically, the
AWD/AWS system on the VR-4 will
> > best any RWD car in traction and
control. Most likely it is
> > the driver's fault in not
learning the AWD that makes them
> > dangerous. This, however,
is not a race driving list but
> > technically I don't think there is
much of a dispute.
>
> I agree that the AWD/AWS can make up to some
extent for poor driving and
> allow average drivers to go faster with more
control. Once you pass the
> limits (which are* rather high) these
cars can be real quick to fly
> straight
> off the road. Don't
make the mistake of relying on the AWD/AWS to save
> you
> from
yourself - at some point it just won't be enough.
>
> It isn't
necessarily not knowing how the AWD/AWS reacts. Once you cross
>
past the cornering limits there isn't much left to grab control back
with.
> The limits are probably higher than most people think, but they
are still
> there.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 07:44:55
-0600
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: Front
Cat
You mean I had it in my hand and put it back in?? D'OH!!!
T.J.
92' 3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 09:57:10
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brembo
3S Specific brake upgrade
I was looking around Brembo's website today and
noticed they have listings
for the Stealth and 3000GT on their brake upgrade
page. Apparently it's
under development because the part number is only
listed as "TBA" I'm left
wondering how this will compare to the various
adapted Porsche upgrades that
guys like Brad and KVR have built. Does
anyone have more information on
this setup?
The parts page is at the
following link:
http://www.brembo.com/prod_highperform.htmlJeff
VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 06:57:40
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Turbo magazine back issue request (RWD VR4 info)
The reason this
guy disabled the AWD was not because he was more
comfortable with RWD, or
did not know how to drive an AWD. He did it to
eliminate the weakest link in
our drivetrain.....the tranny/transfer. Keep
in mind that he was building a
575+hp/550 ft-lb engine back in 93, when
most TT owners were middle aged
business men who's last thought was making
the car faster.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#616
***************************************
