Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, September 17 2001
Volume 01 : Number
614
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Sep 2001 10:58:15 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear Strut Tower Brace with Manual Glass Sunroof
Ever since I can
remember (3+ years), it's been repeated ad nauseam
in the 3/S community that
rear strut tower bars are only for NA cars or for
TT cars with either the
power sunroof or no sunroof. I've also heard many
owners of TT cars
with the glass, removable sunroof complaining about the
fact that the sunroof
brackets prevent the use of a rear strut tower bar. I
have a '95 VR-4
with a glass sunroof and I, too, have been lamenting the
fact that my
once-useful (on my previous base model) Cusco strut tower now
sits on a shelf
in my garage since I like the option of removing my roof on
the 2.7 sunny
days a year we get in the Seattle area.
So who started the rumor that you
can't have a rear strut tower
brace if you have sunroof brackets?
I was feeling curious the other night, so I popped the plastic
covers off
of the sunroof brackets and took a look at the upper shock bolts
and bracket
placement. It *looked* like it might fit, so I went ahead and
tried
installing the brackets for the strut tower brace. 45 minutes later,
I
had a completely installed rear strut tower bar AND the sunroof
brackets
installed. The bar does not interfere with the sunroof
brackets and I
tested this by putting my sunroof in the trunk - it fits
nicely. The only
tools I needed were: 14mm and 13mm 6-pt deep
sockets, a 14mm 6-pt socket, a
socket U-joint, 14mm wrench, #2 and #3
Phillips screwdrivers, 3/8" socket
wrench, a 3" socket extension (and a
cheater bar - optional). No other
panel removal necessary. See
pictures:
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/3000GT/RearStrutBar/RearStrutBar.html-
--Erik
'95 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 14:36:59
-0400
From: "Volthause" <
volt@vozuluzov.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
Dented oil
pan?
The car should hold around 5 quarts with a new oil filter. (i
think)
- -Scott Holthausen
'94 VR4 (for sale)
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
geordon@voyager.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, September 17, 2001 9:14 AM
Subject: Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine
oil during change!
> I finally became educated about synthetic oil,
and did my first oil
> change on my '92 Stealth R/T TT. I drained a quart,
added a quart of
> Gunk engine flush, idled for 7 or 8 minutes, then
removed the drain
> plug and oil filter. All I got out was 2 more quarts
(including oil
> from the filter)! The oil level on the stick looked fine
before I
> started. I lowered my jack in the front and raised the rear
corner to
> see if that would help. Still no big rush of oil. I turned the
motor
> over a couple of times, but no luck. I even let the car just sit
on
> all four on my nearly-level garage pad for a while.
>
>
So I filled a new filter with Mobil 1 10W30, replaced the plug, and
>
poured in 3 quarts of new oil. It now looks like my oil level is high
> on
the stick. My oil pressure is now usually between half and 2/3 on
> the
gauge. I am nervous about running too long in this condition, as I
>
probably have 3 quarts of Mobil 1, 2 quarts of Valvoline dino, and an
>
unknown amount of Gunk running through my engine.
>
> Can anyone
offer any advise on what I should do now?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Geordon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 11:38:14
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: xenon drop-ins
Basic electrical theory controls voltage,
amperage, resistance, and wattage
in DC circuits.
E (voltage) = I
(amperage) x R (resistance)
W (watts) = I (amperage) x E
(volts)
Just do the math.
Consider what the effect is if a 12 volt
battery is put into a 6 volt
system. Do we need bigger wire? No - because the
resistors stay the same, we
actually draw half the current and the wiring is
actually oversized.
On the other hand, if you reduce resistance by
putting in higher wattage
bulbs you allow more current to draw through the
original wires. The wires
are thus undersized and function as long resistors.
Voltage measured at the
light filiments will be lower by some percentage. It
probably will not
effect the amount of light generated, but it means that
heat is being
disipated in the wires themselves. This is not a good thing.
There is a
margin of safety built into the original wiring design. Most wires
only
carry about half the current they are designed to carry at their
maximum,
but I agree with Geoff. It is not wise to put in higher wattage
bulbs
without giving due consideration to what this is going to do to the
wiring,
the battery draw, the charging system, and the fuses.
Good
Luck. Andy Woll
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 11:42:24
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
Completely drain and
refill the system two more times including replaceing
the filter. Its
expensive, but the only way I know to really be pretty sure
all the oil is
really synthetic.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 14:57:49
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
Well, my guess is
that most of the oil was up in the engine! If you shut
it off and
immediately drained the oil, I'm sure you had at least a quart
up in
there...
Typically, I let the car cool for 20-30 mins before doing a change,
or, if
its cold, I'll warm it for 2-3 mins to soften up the oil, then sit it
for
another 5-10.
Hope this helps!
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
R/T TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
geordon@voyager.net wrote:
> I
finally became educated about synthetic oil, and did my first oil
> change
on my '92 Stealth R/T TT. I drained a quart, added a quart of
> Gunk
engine flush, idled for 7 or 8 minutes, then removed the drain
> plug and
oil filter. All I got out was 2 more quarts (including oil
> from the
filter)! The oil level on the stick looked fine before I
> started. I
lowered my jack in the front and raised the rear corner to
> see if that
would help. Still no big rush of oil. I turned the motor
> over a couple
of times, but no luck. I even let the car just sit on
> all four on my
nearly-level garage pad for a while.
>
> So I filled a new filter
with Mobil 1 10W30, replaced the plug, and
> poured in 3 quarts of new
oil. It now looks like my oil level is high
> on the stick. My oil
pressure is now usually between half and 2/3 on
> the gauge. I am nervous
about running too long in this condition, as I
> probably have 3 quarts of
Mobil 1, 2 quarts of Valvoline dino, and an
> unknown amount of Gunk
running through my engine.
>
> Can anyone offer any advise on what I
should do now?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Geordon
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 14:12:02
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
Neither my '93
VR4 nor my son's two '93VR4s nor my '94VR4 has EVER held
more than 4
quarts of oil with a new filter change. All the oil just
doesn't come
out.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Volthause
[SMTP:volt@vozuluzov.com]
> Sent: Monday, September 17, 2001 1:37
PM
> To: 3000GT
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil
during change!
>
> Dented oil pan?
>
> The car should
hold around 5 quarts with a new oil filter. (i think)
>
> -Scott
Holthausen
> '94 VR4 (for sale)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 15:01:49
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
Correct. I
can't comment on how hot or cold the car is supposed to be but
on out TT cars
there is an oil cooler, two turbos, an engine, and an oil pan
for this stuff
to run through. Perhaps it is up in the engine and oil
cooler and oil
hoses to and from the turbos.
It also might be an error in measuring the
oil on the dipstick. I can pull
my dipstick out (yes, in public
<grin>) and on one side it will read low but
on the other side it is
above the mark. I think this is scraping against
part of the tube when
I extract it and giving bad readings. I now do it
with the engine
running and put the dipstick in and quickly seat it and then
remove it before
oil can get splashed up the stick. This gives a
good
reading.
The last time I was getting the famous ticking sound I
measured the oil and
it was showing near the bottom of the marks. I had
to put in one full quart
before it rose off this mark. Strange.
So it was actually a quart low and
not near low. One more full quart
and it was just a hair under the top
mark.
If you aren't driving it
then you can overfill it. Put in three quarts and
drain so you will get
five quarts (including filter) and then you will be
happy perhaps. Just
drain out the extra before you start it up.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Stanton
Sent: Monday,
September 17, 2001 2:58 PM
Well, my guess is that most of the oil was up
in the engine! If you shut
it off and immediately drained the oil, I'm
sure you had at least a quart
up in there...
Typically, I let the car cool
for 20-30 mins before doing a change, or, if
its cold, I'll warm it for 2-3
mins to soften up the oil, then sit it for
another 5-10.
Hope this
helps!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 13:55:09
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: xenon drop-ins
> It is not wise to put in higher wattage
bulbs
>without giving due consideration to what this is going to do to the
wiring,
>the battery draw, the charging system, and the
fuses.
>
When we ran a Pro rally car, we had six 100W lamps up front.
Four were
sealed-beam aircraft landing lights, and two were 10-in. Marchal
100W
iodine-quartz driving lights. We lit up the night.
I worked for
an engineering firm at the time, so we knew enough to wire
every single lamp
directly from a rugged industrial switch panel, and to
fuse each lamp
separately. Other competitors who tried to tie into the
stock Datsun 510
headlight wiring system -- even with separate relays --
often found
themselves at the side of the road, patching their electrics at
3:00 a.m.
Other than running down the battery with our stock Datsun 45 A
alternator, we
had no problem with our electrics. We installed a 70 A
alternator and fixed
the run-down problem. We also ran two #2 cables (one
positive, one negative)
from the rear-mounted battery to avoid rusting out
the frame.
Let
there be light.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 12:04:29
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: xenon drop-ins
> Basic electrical theory controls voltage,
amperage,
> resistance, and wattage in DC circuits.
>
> E
(voltage) = I (amperage) x R (resistance)
>
> W (watts) = I
(amperage) x E (volts)
>
> Just do the math.
Looks OK so far
(but typically one uses V for voltage). I agree with your
ending
conclusion that you should not significantly increase the wattage of
a device
without checking/enlarging the wires that feed it, but some of your
logic
isn't right...
> Consider what the effect is if a 12 volt battery is
put
> into a 6 volt system. Do we need bigger wire?
> No -
because the resistors stay the same, we actually
> draw half the
current and the wiring is actually oversized.
Actually, yes, because I =
V/R. Double the voltage, and you double the
current. Looking at
the wires, they have some resistance, R ( hopefully
much smaller than the
load resistance) - we'll call it Rw. Looking at the
voltage drop over
the wire, Vw = I x Rw. Thus, if you keep the wire the
same and double
the current, its voltage drop will double as well. To
maintain the same
voltage at the load, you need to find a wire with 1/2 the
resistance of the
original wire. This would require a larger wire.
> On the other
hand, if you reduce resistance by putting in
> higher wattage bulbs you
allow more current to draw through
> the original wires.
Yes.
> The wires are thus undersized and function as long
resistors.
They're *always* resistors :-) It's just whether their
resistance is large
enough to worry about. As you increase
voltage/current, a lower-resistance
wire is needed.
> Voltage
measured at the light filiments will be lower by some percentage.
Because
of the increased current, yes.
> It probably will not effect the
amount of light generated,
> but it means that heat is being disipated in
the wires themselves.
If the voltage drop is significant, you will notice
it. i.e. Geoff's
Cherokee example. The heating of the wires is
simply due to the increased
current in the wire. Additionally, heated
wires have increased electrical
resistance which makes them dissipate even
more energy (usually as heat).
> This is not a good thing.
Agreed =)
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 12:06:14
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Only
drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
I replied privately to this post
originally, but thought it prudent to post
again here for future
reference.
Something is obviously amiss in this situation. By your
statement you are
running the car with some oil flush still in
it...which is contrary to the
directions on the label. Genrally such
products sayt o run the engine
without a load for a short designated
period of time and then drain the oil
compleltely. As it did not completely
drain, there is a blockage of some
sort. Over filling as you've
noted is also not a good idea. So, if it were
me, I would drain
it again...or partially drain off one quart and add
another oil flush, follow
directions, and hope this time the blockage
(turbo lines??) is cleaned
out when I drain. Don't drive it with the flush
product in and insure
it is drained before you do. I t sounds like the years
of dino oil use have
baked and gunked up somewhere. Needs to flushed
out
thoroughly.
Best.
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 15:07:51
-0400
From: "Volthause" <
volt@vozuluzov.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
Well, 4 or 5.
Either way, that's more than two. Now that I think about
it... I buy
Mobil 1 in the 6 pack containers and I've always got two bottles
left over
after an oil change that go in the hatch...
- -Scott
Holthausen
'94 VR4 (for sale)
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
3000GT <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, September 17, 2001 3:12 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Only drained 2 qts
engine oil during change!
> Neither my '93 VR4 nor my son's two
'93VR4s nor my '94VR4 has EVER held
> more than 4 quarts of oil with
a new filter change. All the oil just
> doesn't come
out.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
Volthause [SMTP:volt@vozuluzov.com]
> > Sent: Monday, September 17,
2001 1:37 PM
> > To: 3000GT
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Only
drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
> >
> > Dented oil
pan?
> >
> > The car should hold around 5 quarts with a new
oil filter. (i think)
> >
> > -Scott Holthausen
> >
'94 VR4 (for sale)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 14:34:22
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
> It also
might be an error in measuring the oil on the
> dipstick. I can
pull my dipstick out (yes, in public <grin>)
> and on one side it
will read low but on the other side it is
> above the mark. I think
this is scraping against part of the
> tube when I extract it and giving
bad readings. I now do it
> with the engine running and put the
dipstick in and quickly
> seat it and then remove it before oil can get
splashed up the
> stick. This gives a good reading.
It
actually gives a terrible reading if you are measuring with the
engine
running. The mark on the dipstick is supposed to measure oil
including the
amount drained back down from the heads. If you measure
with the motor
running, there's probably a good quart or so sloshing around
in the heads
and turbo feed/return lines that isn't being measured - so if
you fill it at
that point you've got too much oil. Too much will cause
the crank to slosh
a lot more through the oil in the pan and get air bubbles
in the oil (and
reduce horsepower which I doubt is what any of us are looking
to do). Air
bubbles in the oil can cause problems with the lifters,
among other things.
Don't do it that way...
> If you aren't
driving it then you can overfill it. Put in
> three quarts and
drain so you will get five quarts (including
> filter) and then you will
be happy perhaps. Just drain out
> the extra before you start it
up.
No, don't overfill it - even if you aren't running it. If you
manage to
fill it up to the crank seals (which aren't much beyond the regular
"full"
line) then it can seep past the seals and cause you other problems
that you
really don't need.
I usually do have to put in very nearly 5
quarts when I change oil and
filter (which I do both every 3000 miles).
Don't run the motor before you
change it (or at least give it 30 minutes to
drain as much oil back into the
pan as possible). Running the oil to
"soften it up" only pumps it back into
the heads and oil cooler. The
last time you ran the car the oil was hot and
is now as drained down as it
can get if the car has cooled - there's no
point in redoing that. You
should get pretty close to 4.5-5 quarts out each
time (remember to measure
the oil in the filter too). Dump in about 4.5
quarts of new oil, run
the motor for about 30 seconds to fill the oil filter
and all that, then
check the oil after 20-30 minutes and add oil as
necessary to get to the full
line, figuring that its about 1 quart from the
bottom limit line to the full
line.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 15:41:48
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
Thanks, Dr.
Matt. I get horrendous readings when the engine is cold and car
sitting
on level ground. I had local open track driver John Christian
check
this and he suggested the dunking technique. Now I might do it
when I turn
off the engine at the gas station or with it running or cold but
I have to
do the quick-dunking method rather than slowly extracting it.
Don't know if
anyone else sees this problem but my car does not burn oil much
so I don't
worry about it dropping below Low since filling it to High an
running for
3k-10k miles doesn't let it drop below Low so no problems
there.
We all have our own unique ways of dealing with the car's
oddities. Mine
was more of a suggestion to get his results (to get 5
quarts to come out you
put 5 quarts in not enough to get it to full and then
drain again since this
will ONLY be the oil pan and not the oil cooler, oil
lines, etc.).
- --Flash!
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 14:51:26
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
> We all have
our own unique ways of dealing with the car's
> oddities. Mine was
more of a suggestion to get his results
> (to get 5 quarts to come out
you put 5 quarts in not enough
> to get it to full and then drain again
since this will ONLY
> be the oil pan and not the oil cooler, oil lines,
etc.).
There really shouldn't be any oddities with reading the
dipstick. Sure, you
might get a little oil on the edges of the stick
from the dipstick tube, but
the reading in the center of the flat portion
should be consistent every
time. I suppose if you've got way too much
oil in there and the oil is
climbing into the dipstick tube it wouldn't be
accurate anymore.
I dunno, check your oil level however you want I
guess.
Sometimes I wonder why I even post here anymore. Nobody
listens.
???
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 16:01:53
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
Oh we listen but
next time we are at a gathering together you can watch how
I check it and
then do it yourself. I'm telling you. I can do it at a
snail's
pace, jackrabbit pace, car on, car off. I don't get good
readings
without the quick-dunk method. On one side of the dipstick
(flattened part)
it reads either Low or below Low but on the opposite side it
reads over the
High mark. I'll take pictures sometime but the camera
does not zoom in far
enough for details.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 16:35:11
-0400
From: "
rjmsmail@swbell.net"
<
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
Same thing for
me, I have to put the dipstick in fairly fast (engine off of course), wait about
2 sec. and pull it straight out and quickly read it, don't remember which side
off hand is accurate, but that's what works for me. I don't have a VR4
though (1994 3000gt SL).
Bob
Oh we listen but next time we
are at a gathering together you can watch
how
I check it and then do it
yourself. I'm telling you. I can do it at a
snail's pace,
jackrabbit pace, car on, car off. I don't get good
readings
without
the quick-dunk method. On one side of the dipstick (flattened
part)
it reads either Low or below Low but on the opposite side it reads
over
the
High mark. I'll take pictures sometime but the camera does
not zoom in
far
enough for details.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 18:12:21
-0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
There is only
one way to read a dipstick (as Matt already correctly stated). It
is
simple, shut the engine off (the heads drainback remarkably quick if oil
is
normal operating temp) insert a wiped dry dipstick until it seats and
then
remove it (try to take a reading on level ground). It is quite
likely one side
of the dipstick may show artifically high, ignore that
side. Look at the other
side, remember a dipstick can never read a
lower oil fill level than you
actually have, only higher. So go with
the lowest reading you find.
Taking a reading while the engine is running
is laughable.
About oil changes, most recommend to run the engine to
normal operating temps
and drain immediately (without burning
yourself). By running the engine, the
oil mixes with all the small
particles that may otherwise settle out with time.
The hoter the oil, the
faster it will drain out giving it the best chance of
bringing debris in the
sump with it. The film of oil left in the oil pan will
also be thinner
if the oil is hot (the heads will drainback well before you're
ready to
re-install the drain plug and the main gallery will drain out when you
remove
the filter if it hasn't already. The only item that is hard to get
the
oil to drain from is the oil cooler.
Later,
Joe
G.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 18:31:54
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
> Taking a
reading while the engine is running is laughable.
Taking an oil dipstick
reading while the car is running is NOT a laughable
matter since this was the
only way I was getting anywhere close to accurate
readings. I'm sorry I
brought up the idea but thinking outside the box is
what the list needs
sometimes. I KNOW how to read a manual and take an oil
reading as that
is how you do it on every other car I've done that to. What
you guys
are suggesting is just what the manual says and it is just like
regurgitating
it back to me (thanks though for the reinforcement). Just
that I was
soliciting for other solutions around it or if others experienced
the same
thing. So far there has been at least one more person who says
he
experiences that.
Maybe this was back when the engine oil was 2
quarts low and the reading was
minimal so no matter what I did the reading
would have not been accurate.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Joe Gonsowski [mailto:twinturbo@mediaone.net]
Sent:
Monday, September 17, 2001 6:12 PM
There is only one way to read a
dipstick (as Matt already correctly stated).
It
is simple, shut the engine
off (the heads drainback remarkably quick if oil
is
normal operating temp)
insert a wiped dry dipstick until it seats and then
remove it (try to take a
reading on level ground). It is quite likely one
side
of the
dipstick may show artifically high, ignore that side. Look at
the
other
side, remember a dipstick can never read a lower oil fill level
than you
actually have, only higher. So go with the lowest reading you
find.
Taking a reading while the engine is running is
laughable.
About oil changes, most recommend to run the engine to normal
operating
temps
and drain immediately (without burning yourself). By
running the engine,
the
oil mixes with all the small particles that may
otherwise settle out with
time.
The hoter the oil, the faster it will
drain out giving it the best chance of
bringing debris in the sump with
it. The film of oil left in the oil pan
will
also be thinner if the
oil is hot (the heads will drainback well before
you're
ready to
re-install the drain plug and the main gallery will drain out
when
you
remove the filter if it hasn't already. The only item that
is hard to get
the
oil to drain from is the oil cooler.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 15:31:18
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: xenon drop-ins
You are correct Eric. Double the voltage and the
current will double. My
example was only intended to illustrate why it is not
necessary to use
larger wires when upgrading a car from 6 to 12 volts. But,
if you were to
just change batteries, you would have big problems. We used to
do this with
Volkswagens when I was a kid. The old 6 volt lights would burn
for about 10
seconds and then blow. The alternator and regulator also had to
be changed.
It was possible however, with the changing of bulbs, regulator
and
alternator/generaltor to make it work. Why bother? the old 6 volt
systems
just did not have enough umph to give good ignition and cast enough
light
down the road. So much for the "good old days". Take Care.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 15:33:05
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: xenon drop-ins
Yep - that'll do er.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 18:48:10
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
I usually drain at
least 3 quarts and add 4.5 - 5 back.
Make sure that your dipstick is
correct and the dipstick tube is not
damaged. I checked the dipstick and it
is exactly 0.5 meter long from the
"full" mark to the stop on the sealing
surface of the plug. I would find
another 3S car and look it the position of
the dipstick tube it the same.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 18:55:04
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
Thanks,
Philip. Maybe that is something I need to look at. I'll
let
everyone know if there are any updates.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Philip V. Glazatov
Sent:
Monday, September 17, 2001 7:48 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
I usually
drain at least 3 quarts and add 4.5 - 5 back.
Make sure that your
dipstick is correct and the dipstick tube is not
damaged. I checked the
dipstick and it is exactly 0.5 meter long from the
"full" mark to the stop on
the sealing surface of the plug. I would find
another 3S car and look it the
position of the dipstick tube it the same.
Philip
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 19:42:22
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Checking oil level (was: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during
change!)
Okay I just clarified my current situation. I remember
that checking the
oil while the engine was running was when the level was
real low since doing
it now give a VERY full indication. Sorry about
that one.
However, I checked it cold (I could lay my hands on the plenum
and it was
mildly warm but essentially the car was cold). Pull out the
dipstick, wipe
it off, insert it until it seats firmly. The loop on the
handle of the
dipstick comes up and loops clockwise and ends on the driver's
side of the
car. This makes the dipstick flat while facing the front
and rear of the
engine.
Pull out the dipstick and read the
level. With the two notches facing away
from me the reading is
nill. There is a spot or two on the dipstick above
the Full level, one
small dot near the middle, and then some splotches below
the Low level.
However, if I turn the dipstick over (the two notches facing
toward me) then
there is oil on half the thickness of the dipstick and it
goes up to about
the 3/4 or Full mark.
Does ANYBODY else experience this? Is there a
seal or something near the
bottom of the dipstick tube that I might be
missing which is giving bad
readings?
And I did this with the engine
running and got a reading about 8 inches up
the dipstick so that is not the
right way. Thanks and sorry about not
mentioning I was doing that with
a real low oil level. Since then (about
two weeks ago) I put in 2
quarts so I know the level is good.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Philip V. Glazatov
Sent: Monday,
September 17, 2001 7:48 PM
I usually drain at least 3 quarts and add 4.5
- 5 back.
Make sure that your dipstick is correct and the dipstick tube
is not
damaged. I checked the dipstick and it is exactly 0.5 meter long from
the
"full" mark to the stop on the sealing surface of the plug. I would
find
another 3S car and look it the position of the dipstick tube it the
same.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 19:43:33
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
I think that the
speed of measurement should not matter here. I like to
read it slowly. Also
I read the level on both sides of the dipstick. The
key is to figure out
which is the right one and which was smeared. The
correct level is the one
that is lower and has a dry but slightly fogged-up
area right above the edge
of the wet area. Once you see what this fogged-up
edge looks like, you will
never misread your oil level again. Good luck!
Philip
At 03:01 PM
09/17/01, Darren Schilberg wrote:
>Oh we listen but next time we are at a
gathering together you can watch how
>I check it and then do it
yourself. I'm telling you. I can do it at a
>snail's pace,
jackrabbit pace, car on, car off. I don't get good readings
>without
the quick-dunk method. On one side of the dipstick (flattened
part)
>it reads either Low or below Low but on the opposite side it reads
over the
>High mark. I'll take pictures sometime but the camera does
not zoom in far
>enough for details.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 20:10:57
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Checking oil level (was: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during
change!)
The dipstick should be wet on both sides below the true oil
level. The
dipstick tube is usually wet and messy inside and will sometimes
mess up
the reading and leave oil drops all over the dipstick. The
temperature of
the engine is not very important. The level should be
measured right after
the engine is stalled, this way nothing is drained yet
from the oil
galleries into the oil pan. You should clearly see the
"fogged-up edge",
which I was talking about before, if the engine is hot or
warm.
Philip
At 06:42 PM 09/17/01, Darren Schilberg
wrote:
>Okay I just clarified my current situation. I remember that
checking the
>oil while the engine was running was when the level was real
low since doing
>it now give a VERY full indication. Sorry about
that one.
>
>However, I checked it cold (I could lay my hands on the
plenum and it was
>mildly warm but essentially the car was cold).
Pull out the dipstick, wipe
>it off, insert it until it seats
firmly. The loop on the handle of the
>dipstick comes up and loops
clockwise and ends on the driver's side of the
>car. This makes the
dipstick flat while facing the front and rear of
the
>engine.
>
>Pull out the dipstick and read the
level. With the two notches facing away
>from me the reading is
nill. There is a spot or two on the dipstick above
>the Full level,
one small dot near the middle, and then some splotches below
>the Low
level. However, if I turn the dipstick over (the two notches
facing
>toward me) then there is oil on half the thickness of the dipstick
and it
>goes up to about the 3/4 or Full mark.
>
>Does ANYBODY
else experience this? Is there a seal or something near the
>bottom
of the dipstick tube that I might be missing which is giving
bad
>readings?
>
>And I did this with the engine running and
got a reading about 8 inches up
>the dipstick so that is not the right
way. Thanks and sorry about not
>mentioning I was doing that with a
real low oil level. Since then (about
>two weeks ago) I put in 2
quarts so I know the level is good.
>
>--Flash!
>1995
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 19:55:27
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
>> Taking
a reading while the engine is running is laughable.
> Taking an oil
dipstick reading while the car is running is
> NOT a laughable matter
since this was the only way I was
> getting anywhere close to accurate
readings. I'm sorry I
> brought up the idea but thinking outside the
box is
> what the list needs sometimes.
Thinking "outside the box"
is good sometimes, but giving bad advice on how
to read a dipstick is NOT the
time to be throwing the box away. You CANNOT
get "accurate" readings of
any sort by reading the dipstick with the engine
running.
> Pull
out the dipstick and read the level. With the two
> notches facing
away from me the reading is nill. There is
> a spot or two on the
dipstick above the Full level, one
> small dot near the middle, and then
some splotches below
> the Low level. However, if I turn the
dipstick over (the
> two notches facing toward me) then there is oil on
half
> the thickness of the dipstick and it goes up to about the
>
3/4 or Full mark.
Your oil is low. The dipstick should be plainly
and clearly wet with oil up
to the full mark on the front side. It
makes no difference whatsoever what
is on the back side as that can slide
along the dipstick tube. The
splotches/dots are probably from cranking
the dipstick in there too fast and
flinging oil onto it from the dipstick
tube.
> Thanks and sorry about not mentioning I was doing that
>
with a real low oil level. Since then (about two weeks
> ago) I put
in 2 quarts so I know the level is good.
If the dipstick doesn't plainly
have oil up to the Full mark, then it is
still low.
Drain whatever oil
is in there, change the filter (with an OEM Mitsubishi
filter), dump in 4.5
quarts of oil, run the car, let it sit 10-15 minutes,
clean the dipstick and
plop it in there. The lower portion of the dipstick
should* be clearly
covered with oil somewhere around midway through the
crosshatched section of
the dipstick. Top it off 1/16 of a quart at a time
until its at the
"full" mark.
Unless your dipstick is somehow a different length than the
rest of ours, I
really don't see how it can read any differently. It
gets dunked in the
oil, you see the level on the stick. The dipstick
tube is bolted to the
block, so it can't move around and magically change
height unless the bolt
came out.
If you dunk the dipstick into a
bottle of oil up to the fill line and pull
it out, that's exactly what you
should see on the front of the dipstick.
You didn't do something strange
like polish/wax the dipstick or something
like that, right?
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 21:14:46
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
My dipstick is not
cross-hatched in the level oil area. It just has two
notches. Is
this some explanation of the difference? Does ANYone have a
plain
dipstick with just two notches for the oil level? I'd like to hear
if
anyone else can justify this.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Monday, September
17, 2001 8:55 PM
Your oil is low. The dipstick should be plainly
and clearly wet with oil up
to the full mark on the front side. It
makes no difference whatsoever what
is on the back side as that can slide
along the dipstick tube. The
splotches/dots are probably from cranking
the dipstick in there too fast and
flinging oil onto it from the dipstick
tube.
If the dipstick doesn't plainly have oil up to the Full mark, then
it is
still low.
Drain whatever oil is in there, change the filter
(with an OEM Mitsubishi
filter), dump in 4.5 quarts of oil, run the car, let
it sit 10-15 minutes,
clean the dipstick and plop it in there. The
lower portion of the dipstick
should* be clearly covered with oil somewhere
around midway through the
crosshatched section of the dipstick. Top it
off 1/16 of a quart at a time
until its at the "full" mark.
Unless
your dipstick is somehow a different length than the rest of ours, I
really
don't see how it can read any differently. It gets dunked in the
oil,
you see the level on the stick. The dipstick tube is bolted to
the
block, so it can't move around and magically change height unless the
bolt
came out.
If you dunk the dipstick into a bottle of oil up to the
fill line and pull
it out, that's exactly what you should see on the front of
the dipstick.
You didn't do something strange like polish/wax the
dipstick or something
like that, right?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 19:38:53
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Please welcome..
...our new list members!
ccoffey@cac.net923kgtsl@3Si.zzn.comoceanus52@hotmail.comqwkenuf@home.comrenapier@transport.comjlford4@home.com* Porterfield Brake
Wholesaler..just ask! *
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 21:23:06
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
Team3S: O2 sensors and Stillen DP
I just ordered a Borla catback and a
Stillen DP and I was wondering what I
have to do with the 2 O2 sensors that
are on the stock DP. Do I need to weld
bungs on the Stillen DP and the test
pipe, or can I just not use them ? I
hope to be installing it this weekend,
so any help would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks,
Francis
'96 RT/TT (with OBII and too many O2 sensors)
- - Test
pipe, gutted precats, AVC-R, RPS TCC, Supra Fuel Pump, Goodridge
Steel
Braided Lines, Porterfield Cryo/Crossdrilled Rotors, R4S pads,
Autometer
Boost Gauge, GC Springs(500/ 300 f/r), HKS Megaflow filter, 1G DSM
BOV,
Spearco WI
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 19:41:02
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: O2 sensors and Stillen DP
Yes, you will have to weld in bungs
for everything to remain happy. Make
sure you place them the same
distance from the turbos as before, as how
much heat they see, directly
affects how well they perform..and how well
your motor performs as
well.
On Mon, 17 Sep 2001, Morice, Francis wrote:
> I just
ordered a Borla catback and a Stillen DP and I was wondering what I
> have
to do with the 2 O2 sensors that are on the stock DP. Do I need to weld
>
bungs on the Stillen DP and the test pipe, or can I just not use them ?
I
> hope to be installing it this weekend, so any help would be
greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
Francis
> '96 RT/TT (with OBII and too many O2 sensors)
> - Test
pipe, gutted precats, AVC-R, RPS TCC, Supra Fuel Pump, Goodridge
> Steel
Braided Lines, Porterfield Cryo/Crossdrilled Rotors, R4S pads,
> Autometer
Boost Gauge, GC Springs(500/ 300 f/r), HKS Megaflow filter, 1G DSM
> BOV,
Spearco WI
* Porterfield Brake Wholesaler..just ask! *
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 23:26:08
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!
Thanks, Rich.
You are confirming what I assume other people have also. I
will see if
the Pep Boys has another type of dipstick (even a thin rod would
work well
... doesn't have to be a piece of flat metal). Thanks for saying
the
car is better after sitting 20 minutes. I'll give it a shot
tomorrow
and let everyone know if that is better.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Richard
[mailto:radanc@home.com]
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2001 10:44 PM
To:
dschilberg@pobox.comYes, my 92
stealth TT has exactly that type of dip stick and it always
reads funny. I
thought it would be more reliable when the car had sit
for a while but too
long and I was getting inacurate readings. Within 20
minutes of shutting
engine off seems to be best. I was for a while
reading the oil near the
second hatch and realized that I was getting
strange readings only upon
having bad cylinder noise which turned out to
be inadequate oil lube. I was
close to a quart low! Now do not have that
problem and this is mostly due to
reliably refilling oil to specs. I do
not have as much problem as reported
since my car needs exactly specs on
oil change. I never measured exactly how
much comes out. By the way the
flimsy metal curved dip stick almost always
catches oil on the way out
and gives difficult readings but can be found to
mostly be uneven drip
smudges that I rule out as true level readings and look
for even across
dip stick wetness.
Rich
92 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 21:35:08
-0600
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: Ways to Gut a
Cat
What is the best way to gut my cat? Just take it out and shuv a big
rod
through it? Also, does anyone know of some advoce on wieght
reduction that
won't cost me an arma and a leg? Any advice as I prepare
to do this would
be welcome, thanks!!!
T.J.
1992 3000GT
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 23:04:09
-0500
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ways to Gut a Cat
Cut off one arm and one leg, should shed
~30 pounds ;)
Ooorrrr, remove the spare and replace with a can of fix a
flat and a cell
phone. Remove the rear seat (and the passenger seat if
you like). Or
replace seats with racing seats. Lighter rims and
tires are great since
it's a spinning mass. Carbon fiber hood (might as
well do the arm and a leg
first). Replace main cat with a test pipe, or
just get a lighter
aftermarket exhaust. Remove the stereo if you like.
Drive with an empty
tank. Nothing else I can think of that's
cheap...
Christopher
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, September 17, 2001 10:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: Ways to Gut a
Cat
> What is the best way to gut my cat? Just take it out and shuv a
big rod
> through it? Also, does anyone know of some advoce on
wieght reduction
that
> won't cost me an arma and a leg? Any
advice as I prepare to do this would
> be welcome,
thanks!!!
>
> T.J.
> 1992 3000GT VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 00:37:05
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ways to Gut a Cat
From what I hear if you can GET the rear cat
off then do it. Most people
don't have such small hands and
patience. Good luck on the front. Several
on here have done that
but it is a messy job.
The stock driver's TT seat weighs 60 pounds and
the passenger seat weighs 40
pounds. Replacing the driver seat with a
Sparco Evo race seat (moderate in
the price range) adds 16 pounds back in not
including hardware or seatbelt
of about 2 pounds. Don't forget that you
will most likely be urged (read:
required) to install a rollbar with the race
seat and harness and that
weighs 60 pounds so you are back to stock weight
again.
Rear seat is pointless. Takes too much trouble to remove for
only a piece
of foam that weighs nothing. I think I weighed the rear
seatbacks as 4-6
pounds so not worth much. Spare tire weighs a good bit
but I forget since I
have a full-size spare (50 pounds) instead of the
doughnut. It is in the
basement and I'm too tired to drag it to the
scale.
I think Jeff Lucius said his tire+wheel combo is around 28 pounds
or
something unreal. My 17" and 18" wheel and tire combo are a cool 50
pounds
(Pirelli P-Zero on 18" or Yoko A032 on 17"). Not too much you
can do
really. Jeff Mohler has taken it down to about 3,200-3,400#
which creates a
good weight-to-hp ratio. Mine at the track approaches
4,100# which is not
advisable for "racing."
P.S. I thought the phrase
was "More than one way to SKIN a cat." Man am I
out of it.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 23:45:35
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weight savings
> What is the best way to gut my cat? Just
take it out and shuv a big rod
> through it? Also, does anyone know
of some advoce on wieght reduction
> that won't cost me an arma and a
leg? Any advice as I prepare to do
> this would be welcome,
thanks!!!
For gutting the precats you'll want to drill out as much of the
material as
possible and then knock out pieces with a chisel or something
similar. Its
nasty messy - get a good dust mask and fully enclosed eye
protection.
Weight savings.... Other than the things that
Christopher mentioned you can
start stripping "luxury items" out of the
car. If you are on a quest to
save weight, you can remove the air
conditioning system and heater core and
fans and all that stuff. You
can also remove the nice (but heavy) leather
seats and replace with
lightweight racing seats. If you aren't going to be
driving it on the
street or anywhere other than a dragstrip then you can
remove the bumpers and
their associated hardware and fabricate some aluminum
brackets to hold the
fascias in place.
Other stuff that can go:
Carpet padding
Sound
deadener "goop"
Jack, tools, rear "blind" hatch cover, some heat
shields
Lighten the flywheel
Lighten the driver?
Active
exhaust
Replace heavy battery with a much smaller/lighter one
Depends
on how much you want your nice car to look like a not-so-nice car on
the
inside - most of the interior can go, stripped down to the metal.
Replace the
window glass with Lexan (no more rolling windows up and down -
so you might
as well remove the power window motors and all the hardware in
the doors
too).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 23:45:51
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ways to Gut a Cat
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren
Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, September 17, 2001 11:37 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ways to Gut a
Cat
> From what I hear if you can GET the rear cat off then do
it. Most people
> don't have such small hands and patience.
The rear pre-cat is actually easier to gut if you leave it on the
car.
Oskar
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 23:49:12
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ways to Gut a Cat
T.J.
You will not get far with the rod. It
will just pack the catalyst into the
cat. Use drill bits, and
chisels. More details can be found in the
archives. There are
great explanations of how to do each of the cats.
Oskar
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, September 17, 2001 10:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: Ways to Gut a
Cat
> What is the best way to gut my cat? Just take it out and shuv a
big rod
> through it? Also, does anyone know of some advoce on
wieght reduction
that
> won't cost me an arma and a leg? Any
advice as I prepare to do this would
> be welcome,
thanks!!!
>
> T.J.
> 1992 3000GT VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 22:01:59
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: O2 sensors and Stillen DP
Why doesn't the Stillen have these
on it already? Can you even run
without O2 sensors?
Matt
Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem
OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Geoff Mohler
Sent: Monday,
September 17, 2001 7:41 PM
To: Morice, Francis
Cc: Team3S
(E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: O2 sensors and Stillen DP
Yes, you will
have to weld in bungs for everything to remain happy.
Make sure you place
them the same distance from the turbos as before, as
how much heat they see,
directly affects how well they perform..and how
well your motor performs as
well.
On Mon, 17 Sep 2001, Morice, Francis wrote:
> I just
ordered a Borla catback and a Stillen DP and I was wondering
> what I
have to do with the 2 O2 sensors that are on the stock DP. Do I
> need
to weld bungs on the Stillen DP and the test pipe, or can I just
> not
use them ? I hope to be installing it this weekend, so any help
> would
be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
Francis
> '96 RT/TT (with OBII and too many O2 sensors)
> - Test
pipe, gutted precats, AVC-R, RPS TCC, Supra Fuel Pump,
> Goodridge Steel
Braided Lines, Porterfield Cryo/Crossdrilled Rotors,
> R4S pads,
Autometer Boost Gauge, GC Springs(500/ 300 f/r), HKS
> Megaflow filter,
1G DSM BOV, Spearco WI