*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 13:44:13
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: eRAM or Super-eRAM Experience
I like the Kirby solution
better.
That's where you mount a Kirby vacuum cleaner in the rear where it
sucks
exhaust, thus acting as an extractor and helping the turbos spool up
faster.
Rich
At 11:52 AM 9/15/01 -0700, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>Bob has one..says it made a difference, however, the awesome
amperage draw
>and limiter number of seconds you can safely use it..leads
me to belive
>its not much worth it.
>
>I dunno,
>
>On Sat, 15 Sep 2001, Jim Garrelts wrote:
>
>> Hi
Everyone:
>>
>> I was interested to find out if any of the
membership has actual experience
>> with having installed the eRAM or
Super-eRAM electric supercharger on your
>> Stealth or 3000GT? If
so, what kind of HP gain did you see? Was the
>> installation
smooth, or did you experience problems? What are
the
long-term
>> effects on engine life likely to be?
>>
>> Thanks, Jim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 15:46:06
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Idle Screw dimensions/availability
If you don't want to read the
story, skip to the bottom right before the
signature. =)
Hi
everyone, I was in the middle of Maine yesterday(4 hours from home) and my
idle screw decided it didn't want to go on. I was on the highway,
boosting
as usual and then I heard a loud metalic pop and there was an
insane vacuum
leak. I pulled the car over and by the time I was going
15MPH it had already
sputtered and stalled. I looked over the entire
engine for half an hour
looking for a loose hose or hole in an intercooler
or Y-Pipe. After no luck,
I hopped in the car and started it up with
my foot heavily on the
accelorator. I mananged to get the car to my
destination, stalling at every
toll and stop sign. Once there I put
the car to bed.
This morning I popped the hood and tried ot figure out
what was wrong. After
searching every visible place of the engine from
the top, bottom, and sides,
I gave up. Just as I was closing the hood,
I noticed the idle screww didn't
have it's little rubber cover on it.
I took a closer look and low and
behold, no screw...
I took a pen
cap, screwed it in the hole, and started the car. She ran as
smooth as
she could on a cold Maine morning. I was excited having found out
that
it wasn't going to cost me a few thousand for new turbos, but then after
much thinking:
How hard is it to get an idle screw? is it a
common thread machine screw?
Can I use a metric bolt of any particular
size to hold me over for a little
while or is this recommended
against? Any help would be greatly appreciated
as I don't plan on
driving the car anymore until I fix this problem.
Thanks,
- -Paul -
3Si1127
1992 Green RT/TT
K&N FIPK & Re-gapped
plugs(0.034")
Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads,
& SS lines
Greddy Profec Boost Controller @ .9
Bar
Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com,
www.DiabloEnterprises.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 16:25:52
-0500 (CDT)
From: David Littau <
littau@cs.umn.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: eRAM or Super-eRAM Experience
On Sat, 15 Sep 2001, Merritt
wrote:
> I like the Kirby solution better.
> That's where you
mount a Kirby vacuum cleaner in the rear where it sucks
> exhaust, thus
acting as an extractor and helping the turbos spool up faster.
>
Rich
Hmmm. If you tried this, you would be attempting to suck air
through the
exhaust, and through the expansion side of the turbos. To
suck more air
through, you have to have more air available on the other
side. Which
means you are attempting to suck exhaust out of the engine,
which means
you have to suck more air into the cylinder, which means the air
has to
come through the intake tract.
I don't think a Kirby would have
enough suction to perform this task. But
heck, give it a try and prove me
wrong. Don't forget to power the kirby
off the
alternator.
david
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 19:49:40
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Can't get key out of ignition - fixed.
Hello List: Success - my
ignition key now comes out, and I got rid of that
pesky button.
Here
is the scoop. The button is held on the car by a pin. My pin came
loose. The
button is actually the end of a shaft about an inch long. That
shaft meets
another one inch shaft at a 90 degree angle deep within the
ignition switch.
The second shaft goes down to a lever that is visible once
the core of the
ignition switch is removed.
I was able to get to all the parts on my own
by taking off the plastic that
surrounds the steering column. It was not
necessary to take off the steering
wheel. The plastic comes off with 4
screws.
Once the plastic was off, I knew I could go no further because I
don't know
anything about locks.
I went to a Dodge dealer and they
were no help. The computer for Dodge had
Stealth parts, but did not have much
in the way of ignition switch parts or
diagrams. They were willing to sell me
a new core for 117. I went elsewhere.
I then called my local locksmith.
He said bring the car in. I did. He took
out the ignition core and we were
able to see the inside lever. He tried to
get this out gently for about 15
minutes. Then he took my advice and took a
sharpened screwdriver to the pin
holding the lever in and broke it out in
about 20 seconds. Everything now
works great. I no longer have to deal with
the button, and there is now one
less thing to break in the future. Costs -
20 bucks. It would have been 30
bucks more if he had to take the plastic
off, but since I brought it in sans
plastic he was more than happy to give
me a break.
I hope this helps
somebody somewhere.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 23:52:42
-0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Idle Screw dimensions/availability
Same thing happened to me and I have
posted several times regarding this to
www.3Si.org. If this happens to anyone just
run your AC, it will keep the
idle up so the car wont stall. The car
won't run well but at least it won't
stall every time you slow down or
stop.
As for availability no problem, just get one from the Dealer, get
the screw,
and cap and don't forget about the O-ring (I think it's a number 5
O-ring,
but don't hold me to it). I think after time the O-ring wears
out due to
heat and lets the screw back out. I ordered an extra
screw,O-ring and cap,
got 2 of each and the for total shipping was more than
the parts. I now
keep an extra in the trunk.
Now under normal
conditions, I can get my parts the next day from West Broad
Mitsubishi
discount dealer, in Richmond (1-800-229-1001). However, now in
the
light of events, who knows how long it would take. I do live
in
Northern VA so if I had too I could drive down and pick up the
parts. Oh
the parts and shipping were about $10. The idle screw
appears to be a hard
plastic with a point on the end, not sure if I'd advise
using a metal screw.
I hope this helps,
Dave Best
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, September 15, 2001 3:46 PM
Subject: Team3S: Idle Screw
dimensions/availability
(snip) I noticed the idle screw didn't have
it's little rubber cover on it.
I took a closer look and low and behold, no
screw...
How hard is it to get an idle screw? is it a common thread
machine screw?
Can I use a metric bolt of any particular size to hold
me over for a little
while or is this recommended against? Any
help would be greatly
appreciated
as I don't plan on driving the car
anymore until I fix this problem.
Thanks,
-Paul - 3Si1127
1992
Green RT/TT (snip)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 00:10:06
-0400
From: Eric Bowden <
suthnr@geocities.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: eRAM or Super-eRAM Experience
Yep, I have an eRam in my car, as
part of my custom "Stealth Air" intake
system. I have a switch on the
accelerator pedal (and a master switch on
the dash) to control it so it only
comes on when I go WOT. Long story
short, it netted my about 1 to 2
tenths in the 1/4. I did end up added a
1-farad capacitor (just like
the ones used in competition stereos) as this
thing is the perfect
application for a cap. It has a 50 amp draw when it
kicks in, and I
was seeing about a 1.5 volt drop in the car when I'd kick
it in, and it
would slowly come back up. while it was running. Adding the
cap got it
to only slightly drop about a half volt bult almost instantly
return to
normal.
Was it worth it? Nyah, maybe. I like having it for
the relatively unique
factor. Was it worth the bang for the
buck? Probably not, considering you
could take the same amount I spent
on the eram and cap and get a nitrous
kit in there and jet up 75 or whatever
shot you choose. But the nitrous
will have more detrimental long term
effects than this which simply pushes
air into the engine rather than
the engine having to suck it in.
EricB
Hmmm... methinks this might
be my first post to this list...?
At 09:24 AM 9/15/2001 -0400, you
wrote:
>Jim,
>
>Try contacting Eric Bowden. I think he
has an eRam.
>
>--Flash!
>1995
VR-4
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
>Of Jim Garrelts
>Sent:
Saturday, September 15, 2001 8:51 AM
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: eRAM or Super-eRAM Experience
>
>
>Hi
Everyone:
>
>I was interested to find out if any of the membership
has actual experience
>with having installed the eRAM or Super-eRAM
electric supercharger on your
>Stealth or 3000GT? If so, what kind
of HP gain did you see? Was the
>installation smooth, or did you
experience problems? What are the long-term
>effects on engine life
likely to be?
>
>Thanks, Jim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 01:24:14
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: eRAM or Super-eRAM Experience
Welcome, Suthnr, to the posting
then. This can't be your first post.
You've been around
forever.
Didn't you run your fastest time at Thompson Dragway at the
Midwest
Gathering when you put your subwoofer box back IN the trunk of your
car? I
don't know if you had the eRam on at that time but I don't know
that it
would have much effect on the strip. Well, let me rephrase ...
it would
have more of an effect on a road course where you are at WOT for a
much
longer amount of time than the strip.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
sucking air through a K&N FIPK
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Eric Bowden
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2001 12:10 AM
Yep, I have an
eRam in my car, as part of my custom "Stealth Air" intake
system. I
have a switch on the accelerator pedal (and a master switch on
the dash) to
control it so it only comes on when I go WOT. Long story
short, it
netted my about 1 to 2 tenths in the 1/4. I did end up added a
1-farad
capacitor (just like the ones used in competition stereos) as this
thing is
the perfect application for a cap. It has a 50 amp draw when it
kicks
in, and I was seeing about a 1.5 volt drop in the car when I'd kick
it in,
and it would slowly come back up. while it was running. Adding the
cap
got it to only slightly drop about a half volt bult almost instantly
return
to normal.
Was it worth it? Nyah, maybe. I like having it for
the relatively unique
factor. Was it worth the bang for the buck?
Probably not, considering you
could take the same amount I spent on the eram
and cap and get a nitrous
kit in there and jet up 75 or whatever shot you
choose. But the nitrous
will have more detrimental long term effects
than this which simply pushes
air into the engine rather than the
engine having to suck it in.
EricB
Hmmm... methinks this might be
my first post to this list...?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 16:34:44
-0000
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: eRAM or Super-eRAM Experience
5hp in the rpm range when
activated measured on a dyno. Goto
http://www.team3s.com/FAQeram.htm
for details
> Was it worth it? Nyah, maybe. I like having
it for the relatively unique
> factor. Was it worth the bang for the
buck? Probably not, considering
you
> could take the same amount
I spent on the eram and cap and get a nitrous
> kit in there and jet up 75
or whatever shot you choose. But the nitrous
> will have more
detrimental long term effects than this which simply pushes
> air
into the engine rather than the engine having to suck it
in.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
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------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#612
***************************************