Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, September 15 2001 Volume 01 :
Number
611
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
13 Sep 2001 21:42:14 -0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Output shaft removal
Pat Ramsey (
Pat.Ramsey@d-fd.com) has changed the
output shaft, here are his instructions that he sent me. I am prety sure
that You have to pull the tranny to do this.
NOTE: ENSURE ALL TRANNY
FLUID IS REMOVE BEFOREHAND VOLUNTARILY, OTHERWISE
IT WILL COME OUT WHEN YOU
DON'T WANT IT TO. I got Steve's floor soaked when the pan I was draining into
flipped up then over from the weight of the tranny.
The output shaft was
about $300 from Kormex. I also talked to Frank to get from him the best way to
disassmble the casings. There are three pieces to
the case, which I didn't
know because I didn't look at it close enough, and he told me the best way to
disassemble it is to place it on the flat part,
with the shafts facing up.
What he didn't tell me was that the easiest way
to loosen the bolts
was to loosen them with the bell housing end facing down, leave two bolts on
each casing joint to keep them together, then flip
it over where the bell
housing is facing up. You can then remove the final bolts.
The bell
housing section lifts off pretty easily, but you must remove the shifter fork
and release bearing first. You also have to remove the shifting linkage, but I
can't remember if it's in the bell housing or
center section of the tranny.
Just remove the first linkage that's attached to the housing with one bolt, then
remove the two bolts that hold the other part of the linkage that goes into the
tranny. Remember to take note of the orientation of the linkages so you can put
them back together.
Once the bell housing is off you'll see the
gearing. There is one bearing/gear cluster (front differential) to the side of
the housing that just lifts out. Take that off and you should be ready to remove
second
casing piece. You'll have to finagle the casing piece around a little
to get it to clear the first speed gear, but that's no big deal.
Once
that casing piece is off you should just be able to lift the output shaft with
the V/C out of the remaining casing, it just sits in there. You'll need to
remove the V/C, and it's held on by four roll pins, so punch them into the
inside of the V/C (they can be retrieved after the V/C comes off), then slide
the V/C off. There are some other bearings and gears that
need to be removed
from the shaft but they just slide off and aren't fastened on in any way.
Install new output shaft in reverse order of disassembly and you should
be home free.
Frank at Kormex did say the best thing to use to seal the
casing joints when reassembling is Loctite 518. It's red and comes in a blue
tube. I haven't had the opportunity to test out the sealing capabilities of it
yet, but he says that's what they use and it works the best of anything they've
tried. And I don't know the torque specs for reassembly, just don't strip
out the holes.
It was kind of daunting just thinking about trying to
do this by myself, but once you get it apart it's a breeze. It took me most of
the morning to do this, but I'm really anal about doing things right, so I went
REAL slow.
I had to disassemble it again just this past weekend to
reseal the joints, and it took me about three hours to do everything, including
cleaning off
the surfaces with a wire brush and brake cleaner, shooting the
breeze with my engine builder, just taking my time, so it was much easier this
time.
One note on installing the linkage back into the tranny, there is
a spring that likes to come off and fall into the internals, crimp that to the
shaft
or put a big blob of grease on it to make it stay in place.
A
lso, you must align the linkages properly to get it to fit correctly,
and if you have the tranny in the same position (bell housing up) when you try
to reinstall it, gravity works against you to move some of the linkages around
and get it out of alignment. To overcome this, either move the tranny to a
better
position or again, put a blob of grease on the part that moves so it
doesn't want to move when you reinstall it. Remember to seal that cover as
well.
One other note, I looked at the output shaft and knew that it
needed to be replace, then looked at the input sleeve on the transfer case and
thought it looked fine, so I didn't order one of those. Then I talked to Frank
again and he said that most of the time they both need replacing so I took a
closer look at the sleeve and this time noticed that the splines were
indeed
wearing so I ordered the sleeve from him, plus the bearings and oil seal.
What's the point of this you might ask, check your input sleeve splines
closely. I'm now in the process of disassembling my transfer case and replacing
most of the internals there.
Sorry it's so long.
Email me back if
you need anything else.
Pat
Original Message
below
>.Does anyone know if the transfer case front output
>shaft can be pulled without takeing the trans. apart?>This is a 92 TT.
>Thanks,
>RICK
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 08:30:38
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: Carbon/Carbon OEM replacement brakes
available..
Geoff
I realize you don't have complete info yet but
longevity will be a key issue
if $1700 is the target price ---- they are
going to have to last in the range
10 weekends minimum to warrant the expense
--- unless of course the
performance is outrageous, but then it goes to a
performance issue from
a cost issue. In my case I have to factor in cost
ahead of performance, I
want good performance but I can't afford another $250
a weekend for
brakes.
BTW --- still no Team3S messages including ones
that I sent.
Jim
berry
================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
I can most likely get a BR carbon pad as well, I dont see why not.
Thats
> the easy part of the kit.
>
> On Fri, 14 Sep 2001, Jim
Berry wrote:
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
From: Floyd, Jim <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
>
>
> > > Jim,
> > >
> > > A lot of use R4
or R4-S pads with the Big Reds.
> > > Brad uses Pageant Orange and
Chuck Willis has been testing Panther.
> >
> >
> >
Yes-indeedy, as do I --- R4 pads that is --- Geoff was pitching the
carbon
> > carbon setup for OEM users. I have big Reds which use the
stock 2nd gen
> > rotors but it uses the Porsche pads not the OEM
pads.
> >
> > BTY my first set of pads were the Pagids [ ½ the
material remaining ] but
> > the amount and type of dust was amazing. I
still have residue on my chrome
> > rims from those damn Pagids ---
it's almost like a plasma coating, I've tried
> > all forms of chemical
treatments but it seems like scraping is the only method
> > of removal
--- I'm thinking of passing the tip on to NASA for space shuttle
> >
application, it's got to be lighter than the ceramic stuff they use
now.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 09:07:46
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Carbon/Carbon OEM replacement brakes
available..
From all im hearing, the wear should so extremely minimal,
should last
dozens of events. Given our cars -only- weigh 4000lbs and
dont have the
2-4000lbs of downforce, they brakes will never really work very
hard at
all.
In fact, you may find yourself adding backing plates and
removing ducting
to help keep them warm enough to work optimally.
Were
talking friction co-efficients that are astonomical.
On Fri, 14 Sep 2001,
Jim Berry wrote:
> Geoff
>
> I realize you don't have
complete info yet but longevity will be a key issue
> if $1700 is the
target price ---- they are going to have to last in the range
> 10
weekends minimum to warrant the expense --- unless of course the
>
performance is outrageous, but then it goes to a performance issue from
>
a cost issue. In my case I have to factor in cost ahead of performance,
I
> want good performance but I can't afford another $250 a weekend
for
> brakes.
>
> BTW --- still no Team3S messages including
ones that I sent.
>
> Jim berry
>
================================================
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
> > I can most likely get a BR carbon pad as well, I dont see why
not. Thats
> > the easy part of the kit.
> >
>
> On Fri, 14 Sep 2001, Jim Berry wrote:
> >
> > > -----
Original Message -----
> > > From: Floyd, Jim <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
> >
>
> > > > Jim,
> > > >
> > > > A
lot of use R4 or R4-S pads with the Big Reds.
> > > > Brad uses
Pageant Orange and Chuck Willis has been testing Panther.
> >
>
> > >
> > > Yes-indeedy, as do I --- R4 pads that
is --- Geoff was pitching the carbon
> > > carbon setup for OEM
users. I have big Reds which use the stock 2nd gen
> > > rotors but
it uses the Porsche pads not the OEM pads.
> > >
> > >
BTY my first set of pads were the Pagids [ ½ the material remaining ]
but
> > > the amount and type of dust was amazing. I still have
residue on my chrome
> > > rims from those damn Pagids --- it's
almost like a plasma coating, I've tried
> > > all forms of chemical
treatments but it seems like scraping is the only method
> > > of
removal --- I'm thinking of passing the tip on to NASA for space shuttle
>
> > application, it's got to be lighter than the ceramic stuff they use
now.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 16:51:42
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Which downpipe?
The Stillen pipe has both sets of holes drilled
out in the rear pre-cat
flange for both generations. On my car, I had
to grind out the bolt holes
cause they were off by 1/4"
Sam
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Oskar <
osk@mediaone.net>
To: Team3S <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, September 11, 2001 6:02 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Which
downpipe?
>>
>> I don't think they realize (or have
acknowleged) a difference in fitment
>> between
>> 1st and 2nd
gen?
>>
>> - tds
>
>Yes they do - they have two
different DPs. One for 91-93 (E133010), one
for
>94-up
(E133011).
>
>The issue is not that they have not recognized this -
the issue is that the
>version intended for the second gen. has been found
to not fit very well on
>at least two cars.
>
>The flange
orientation is explained below. Quoted from an e-mail sent by
>Jack
T on Wednesday, September 15, 1999 6:55 AM to the Team3S
list
(remember
>Sirius?):
>
>"The 91-93 vs. 94+front
precats are different flange bolt orientation on
the
>distal end; and
the 94 precat is SLIGHTLY shorter, also. You can
>not bolt one in
place of the other, I tried. I would definitely buy the
>specific
year fit downpipe from the outset.
>Jack
Tertadian"
>
>Oskar
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 01:50:58
-0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Does this engine/tranny look familiar to anyone?
Wow!
http://www.wrightouch.com/pictures-enlarge.asp?path=media/awd-0021.gifLook
familiar? More pics below.
http://www.wrightouch.com/pictures-car.asp?car=awdAnyone
have more info on this car?
Vinny Singh -
I would like to send my
condolences for the tragedies in NYC and
Washington, if any of your family
and friends suffered anything in
these horrific crimes.
http://www.manualcd.com - 3/S Backup Service
Manuals on CD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#611
***************************************
