Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, September 10 2001
Volume 01 : Number
606
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 09 Sep 2001 17:32:06 -0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Drive shaft U-joints
Hello,
A word to the wise (or FROM the
wise) I recently acquired another VR-4.
After replacing the entire timing
train yesterday, i took it out on it's
maiden voyage. It was making a
terrible noise while driving so i put it
back up in the air and went to
checking underneath. I found that the
propeller shaft bushings were shot, so
no problem, i have 3 shafts, just
throw one in. Well, while removing the
driveshaft from the prop shaft, i
found that the transfer case tail shaft
was very loose (i guess this is
what was making the noise) Anyway, the
driveshaft front u-joint was
completely frozen, which was probably what
killed the tail shaft bearings
in the transfer. Bottom line is, check your
driveshaft u-joints
periodically, or you may be replacing the transfer
case.............
Wayne
92 VR-4
1.5 91
VR-4's
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2001 22:38:06
-0400
From:
mxjashogar@home.comSubject: Team3S:
Headlights
Hello I'm still trying to figure out why my headlights on my
1993 Dodge
Stealth ES go off when I'm driving . I've owned the car for five
weeks
and love it , this is the only problem I've had .I've checked the
fuses
under the dash , cleaned the connections at the headlights to no
avail
.As I drive the headlights only go off , everything else stays on ?
I
flick the high beams they don't work turn the lights off & on , no go
.
Then I restart the car and they go on for about half a hour or so
..
Could it be the fuses under the hood ?? or the actually connection
at
the switch on the steering column ? If so can I clean it with alcohol
?
Any help would be appreciated .
PS since I got my dream car my son would
love a Hot Wheel or metal die
cast Stealth . Other than the promo or self
build plastic models did Hot
Wheels or any other company make a Stealth
??
I appreciate the Club and Web site thanks to all involved .
Gary 1993
Stealth ES
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 09:51:14
+0700
From: "Mei Harijanto" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject:
Team3S: NEED INFO
To eliminate detonation or knocking in cylinder
chamber, can I change the
stock wire fuel pump for example 10 gage wire so
that the voltage increase
to 13vdc and fuel pump can pressure more fuel into
fuel rail/injectors.
Please advise me and thank you very much for your kindly
attention.
Kindly regards,
Mei Harijanto
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 20:04:15
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Headlights
Best guess is headlight relay --- located in the fuse/relay
box in the right
front of the car. I had a similar problem and I solved it by
replacing the
headlight
relay
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
mxjashogar@home.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, September 09, 2001 7:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: Headlights
> Hello I'm still trying to figure out why my headlights on my
1993 Dodge
> Stealth ES go off when I'm driving . I've owned the car for
five weeks
> and love it , this is the only problem I've had .I've checked
the fuses
> under the dash , cleaned the connections at the headlights to
no avail
> .As I drive the headlights only go off , everything else stays
on ? I
> flick the high beams they don't work turn the lights off & on
, no go .
> Then I restart the car and they go on for about half a hour or
so ..
> Could it be the fuses under the hood ?? or the actually connection
at
> the switch on the steering column ? If so can I clean it with alcohol
?
> Any help would be appreciated .
> PS since I got my dream car my
son would love a Hot Wheel or metal die
> cast Stealth . Other than the
promo or self build plastic models did Hot
> Wheels or any other company
make a Stealth ??
> I appreciate the Club and Web site thanks to all
involved .
> Gary 1993 Stealth ES
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 20:14:07
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
NEED INFO
No --- the heavier gauge wire may provide higher voltage to the
pump but
the fuel pressure relay still limits the amount of fuel to the
injectors. To
increase fuel flow you need a fuel controller of some sort that
tricks the
ECU into using more fuel. if you're looking to cool the intake
charge you
might consider water
injection.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Mei Harijanto <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
To:
<
Team3S@Stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, September 09, 2001 7:51 PM
Subject: Team3S: NEED INFO
> To
eliminate detonation or knocking in cylinder chamber, can I change the
>
stock wire fuel pump for example 10 gage wire so that the voltage
increase
> to 13vdc and fuel pump can pressure more fuel into fuel
rail/injectors.
> Please advise me and thank you very much for your kindly
attention.
>
> Kindly regards,
> Mei
Harijanto
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 08:55:50
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front Hub Removal
I wondered about what would be the
appropriate lubricant for the splines
when I replaced my front hubs. I
settled on high temperature lithium grease
- - the white stuff, although I am
also a great fan of antiseize.
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Sam Shelat [SMTP:sshelat@erols.com]
> Sent: Saturday, September 08,
2001 12:49 PM
> To: Jannusch, Matt; Team 3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S:
Front Hub Removal
>
> I put anti-sieze on everything
>
and it practically fell out of the hub the next time when the CV went
bad
> (probably from banging on it to get it loose the previous
time)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 09:02:22
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need a quick answer!! Please help!!
I think Cody is on to
something here - I think the loose coils are going to
compress first
regardless of whether they are on top or bottom.
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: cody
[SMTP:overclck@starband.net]
> Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2001 6:33
PM
> To: 'Sam Shelat'; 'BlackLight';
'Stealth@Stls. Verio. Net';
>
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need a quick answer!! Please help!!
>
> Can
you explain how two equal pieces pushing on the same spring can have
>
different forces acting upon them???
>
> -Cody
>
>
>
> The tighter coils go on the bottom of the strut--the looser
"softer"
> more
> spaced ones are your comfort zone on top.
>
> Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 09:15:01
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need a quick answer!! Please help!!
This bearing in the top
strut mount is a favorite topic of Jeff Lucius on
his garage web page.
I, too, am curious whether the INTRAX setup uses the
stock upper strut
mount.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim
Berry [SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2001 10:02
AM
> To: BlackLight;
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need a quick answer!! Please help!!
>
> the
top
> of the strut is a bearing that allows the assembly to rotate with
respect
> to
> the strut
tower. Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 09:00:01
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfield Rotors...actually Stillen sport rotors
I'm
surprised - my experience with the car candy has been pretty good.
We
ARE still talking about the Stillen Sport rotors,
yes?
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sam
Shelat [SMTP:sshelat@erols.com]
> Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2001 2:08
PM
> To: Jannusch, Matt; Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Porterfield
Rotors...
>
> .............yah, but they come with a disclaimer
that they are not for
> track use. That was totally unexpected, and
when they warped only
> slightly
> less quickly then the stock ones
and very quickly after I had them
> machined
> again (warped when I
bought them), I knew they were just car candy and
> not
> a
real improvement at all.
>
> Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 09:18:52
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ignition key won't come out - update on fix 1
I strongly
disagree - in my experience I have been supplied the shaft my
dealers more
often than I care to mention!
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Andrew Woll [SMTP:awoll1@pacbell.net]
> Sent:
Sunday, September 09, 2001 4:35 PM
> To: Dennis and Anita Moore;
Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Ignition key won't come out - update on fix
1
>
> dealer probably can't even spell "shaft" much
less
> fix one.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 08:54:03
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need a quick answer!! Please help!!
Well I am using
everything stock except for the springs now, so I'm sure
they do. I'll give
everyone an update on the problem later, I'm going in
to talk to the mechanic
now. Till then.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales
Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent:
Monday, September 10, 2001 7:15 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Need a quick answer!! Please help!!
This bearing in the
top strut mount is a favorite topic of Jeff Lucius
on his garage web
page. I, too, am curious whether the INTRAX setup
uses the stock upper
strut mount.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Jim Berry [SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2001 10:02
AM
> To: BlackLight;
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need a quick answer!! Please help!!
>
> the
top
> of the strut is a bearing that allows the assembly to rotate with
> respect to
> the strut
tower. Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 11:25:12
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: FW: Wear on Panther Plus pads
Andie,
Just got back
from the weekend at Texas World Speedway. Saturday was dry
and
warm. Sunday AM sessions were rained out, but we ran combined
seesions
in the afternoon and got about the usual track time, although the
track was
like glass in some places, so speeds were down and braking was
conservative.
Panther Plus pads did quite well - haven't measured wear yet -
no warpage on
the rotors. Won't service the brakes, except to bleed them,
before next
event weekend after next.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Andie W. Lin [SMTP:andiewlin@yahoo.com]
> Sent:
Thursday, September 06, 2001 12:37 PM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
>
Subject: Re: FW: Wear on Panther Plus pads
>
> Chuck,
>
> Thanks for the update!
>
> Yes, the Panther Plus has a
better wear rate than the Panther, about
> 20-25% from our
estimates. This was an issue we wanted to address when
> improving
the Panther compound. The Panther Plus is VERY rotor
> friendly...we
detected nearly ZERO wear at Sebring on the ITS Integra
> after 3 1/2
hours of hard testing...and the pads just wore down
> 12%...needless to
say, we are very pleased with the results.
>
> Talk to you
soon,
>
> Andie
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 09:44:32
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Quirky cruise control
> I find when cruising and using Cruise
Control sometimes it
> takes two clicks of the steering wheel stalk lever
to activate
> it instead of just one push.
Yep, typically that's
what happens for me, too. Generally only on the 1st
time you set it
after turning the switch below the radio on. It worked this
way on my
old 3000GT and on my current VR-4. Also experienced this with 3
other
3/Ss that I've driven.
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 13:38:04
-0400
From: "
rjmsmail@swbell.net"
<
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 3000gt trans shifter pops out periodically in 4th gear only
Hi
guys, just joined the list again after a long lapse and spending months away
from my 1994 3000gt SL in a far away country. I now drive it without using
the 4th gear (just shift from 3rd to 5th) because the dealer informed me I was
looking at a transmission rebuilt to fix the "popping out of 4th gear" problem,
about $2,000. Car has about 95,000 miles on it Does
anyone know if there could possibly be another way out on this and if the other
gears will soon be affected? I don't rest my hand on the shifter because I
know that is a bad thing. Is it most likely a worn out bearing/synchro and
why this gear, because that used to be my most frequent gear around here in
Houston? Also, I seem to be revving the car more obviously since I'm in
3rd gear more but I like the added performance: guess at 4000+ rpm's though I
should probably put it in 5th? Thanks (searched archives but found nothing
specific, apologies if recently covered). Bob
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 13:47:04
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Alky Inj => can use 89/87 octane?
I recently purchased a alcohol
injection kit after looking over all of
the benefits. Well, I realized
that the real benefit of this is that it
raises the effective octane of the
fuel, while in use. So, if I'm
careful to tune this as to avoid knock,
can I use lower octane fuel for
normal driving? Or am I missing the
point of using 93 octane (in my
area) in our cars?
Thanks!
Ken
Stanton
'91 Pearl White R/T TT
Apexi AVC-R - 1.0bar
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 12:44:04
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3000gt trans shifter pops out periodically in 4th gea r
only
> I was looking at a transmission rebuilt to fix the
>
"popping out of 4th gear" problem, about $2,000.
> Car has about 95,000
miles on it Does anyone know
> if there could possibly be
another way out on this
> and if the other gears will soon be affected?
It could possibly be the end nut on the upper shaft of the tranny.
Its
supposed to be torqued pretty high and then staked with a bent washer,
but
sometimes they come loose if you shift aggressively. That can
be
inspected/corrected with the tranny still in the car by taking the end
cover
off.
> I don't rest my hand on the shifter because I
know that is a
> bad thing. Is it most likely a worn out
bearing/synchro and
> why this gear, because that used to be my most
frequent gear
> around here in Houston?
Not synchro.
Possibly bearing or a damaged gear. At least on the 5-speed
nonturbo
trannies you can get parts. $2000 seems pretty high for a
rebuild
though.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 13:32:39
-0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3000gt trans shifter pops out periodically in 4th gear only
Try
adjusting the shifter cable first. Pop the boot off of the shifter
and
you will see the adjustment link towards the end of the shift
cable.
On the NA cars there has been reported problems with 5th gear
popping out
due to the nut loosening on the 5th-reverse shaft. The fix
is to pull off
the cover and re-tighten the nut. DSM cars have reported
this problem more
than 3S cars but I personally know of one 3S that had this
happen too.
I had problems with my car popping out of reverse and simply
adjusting the
cable fixed it.
Good Luck,
Kevin
Schappell
http://kevin.schappell.comSave money
on all of your speed parts.
http://www.SpeedShoppers.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 13:23:18
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Quirky cruise control
has happened occassionally with both my
'93VR4 and '94VR4 but I just thought
it was my error.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik
[SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent: Monday, September 10, 2001 11:45
AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Quirky cruise control
>
>
> > I find when cruising and using Cruise Control sometimes
it
> > takes two clicks of the steering wheel stalk lever to
activate
> > it instead of just one push.
>
> Yep,
typically that's what happens for me, too. Generally only on the
1st
> time you set it after turning the switch below the radio on.
It worked
> this
> way on my old 3000GT and on my current
VR-4. Also experienced this with 3
> other 3/Ss that I've
driven.
>
> --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 11:36:05
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: List downtime
Due to horrific failures in my "new" DSL provider
to schedule a new line
before my old Rhythms provider shuts down thier
network (sometime today
were told) the list will see some downtime.
Covad has missed two
appointments to turn up the new line.
Ive already
had DNS pointed to a new primary server, and I will be
relocating services
(the server itself) to that physical location later
tonight.
Mail will
be queued and NOT lost. There will be a minor flood of list
mail when
all comes alive again. I dont expect it to take more than a day
or
two.
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com *
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 13:48:05
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: Brief track report - TWS Lone Star PCA
Third visit to the track
with my '94VR4, second time with the Ground Control
suspension transplanted
from the '93VR4. DSBC set at 14.7 psi. Plugs gapped
at
0.034".
Nice dry track on Saturday, not too warm, temperature might have
hit 90 or
so in the afternoon. Did not use octane booster this
time. No lap times,
but Rich, Jim, and Flash will be pleased to learn
that I duplicated their
overtemp condition. What happens is that the
car is running fine with the
temperature needle in the middle of the gauge as
usual, then it moves fairly
steadlily up to 3/4 of full scale and stays there
until you ease off a
little, then it returns to the normal position.
I
never saw this happen in three and a half seasons with my '93 VR4,
except
once when I had a pinhole leak in my lower hose. I'll probably
go through
the ritual of changing out thermostat, hoses, and coolant,
although the
coolant is fairly fresh (50/50 mix of antifreeze, no water
wetter like
always). Didn't see this at Heartland PArk last month, and
neither did my
son, Michael, who was driving a '93 VR4 with DSCB at 14.7 psi
and running
1-2 seconds faster every lap than me. Stock radiator, stock
oil cooler in
the stock position. Stock intercoolers, though nicely
renovated by me last
November. Rear engine compartment weather seal
removed. Aftermarket exhaust
that still has both pre-cats and cat
(ungutted as far as I know).
The 2nd gen VR4 has the six speed which is
geared a little lower than the
five speed. That means that in the same
gear at the same speed, the second
generation VR4 is at a higher rpm
producing more boost and more horsepower
than the first generation car.
This also means more heat produced and our
cooling system seems to be unable
to keep up with this. I am now also
interested in better radiators and
oil coolers for our cars.
Panther Plus pads did quite well - little wear
(not measured yet) no warpage
to the rotors. They brake very
nicely. I have modified my braking because
some on this list and a
couple of advanced instructors suggested that I
might be overbraking (ABS on
at every hard braking zone). I made an active
effort to change this,
and had good solid decelleration without ABS
activation. Also got rid
of the rear brake dust shields before this event.
Sunday all AM sessions
were rained out, but since over half the
participant's went home, we combined
sessions for the afternoon and got the
usual amount of track time, albeit on
a slipperly course. Once again, the
AWS is extremely forgiving and
saved my bohunkus several times when I got
the car loose. In four
years, I have never seen the track so slippery, even
when It should have
dried out. Sunday's rain was hard enough that the track
should have
been well-washed. So, the speeds were down and braking was
gentle on
Sunday. If you aren't smooth, you won't stay on the track.
Drove
in Tour ECS mode Sunday to make weight transfer slower.
I
noticed that I lost several lead wheel weights this time. I need to
see
if there's a better way to secure these things. Ran with two new front
tires
since I corded one at Heartland Park last month. Heat cycled them
Friday
night (ten minutes at 40 mph, ten minutes at 50 mph, ten minutes at 60
mph,
then let sit overnight). Tire wear looked fine with 40 psi
in fronts and
38 psi in rear measured cold.
Had one student most of
the weekend in a modified MR2 - sort of fun but not
much horsepower.
Had a yellow student in an old 911 for one session on
Sunday to show him how
to drive in the rain.
Looking forward to dinner with Rich Old Poop
Tuesday night in Houston, and
to driving with Jim Floyd at TWS in December.
Next DE is in two weeks at
TWS.
Chuck Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 12:53:58
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Sears Point Race Report (semi-long).
OK, so I don't have the time to do a
'proper report' a la Rich Merritt,
since I came right home from the track to
a major party at my house last
night, grabbed a few hours of silliness, and
very little sleep. And in an
hour I'm outta here for a short R&R
session (gone fishin'). Here's a brief
(for me) synopsis of the action
- these are some bits and pieces that I want
to share...
-
-:-
Racing a 3S is about as much fun as you can have with your clothes
on. We
had an awesome time at Sears Point! It was just Jeff and
Nissa, and ET and
I, but we met up with some friends from other local NASA
races when we got
to the track. We had a short planning time, so we
couldn't put out a major
call for the other 'Best Coasters' on Team3S - it's
too bad more of you
didn't join us, and I hope you will come to the next one,
September 29 & 30
at Sears Point again. The NASA Pro Racing HPDE is
such a cool setup - just
a bunch of people who all cooperate to the end of
safe, fun racing. It's a
spirit of cooperation, respect,
politeness - in other words, morons and
"hot dogs" need not
apply. To blow our own horn for a moment, it's very
similar to the
environment here on Team3S - lots of mutual respect and
helpful
feedback.
ET and Nissa were running in Group 2, which is between the
novice Group 1
and the experienced Group 3. (3 is where they both
belong, IMO). A few
folks in G2 who didn't accept the race rules and
were dangerous on the
course were black-flagged - one guy was thrown
out. He was so blatantly
stupid that he almost took Nissa out and she
came in afterwards just
fuming - with good cause. In our Group 3 there
was quite a bit of illegal
passing in restricted areas, but the Group leaders
stifled that nonsense in
a hurry. As we've described before, NASA has a
couple of very nice "checks
and balances" to maintain control over the racers
and keep things fun and
safe: really attentive track officials who are
quick to recognize problem
drivers and situations, and the mandatory
"download session" for all
participants after every run. At the
download, the leader goes through a
list provided by the track officials,
instructors who are in each run, and
even the group leader, who drives in
almost every run, too. They point out
the problem drivers and make them
explain their "screwups", then they (and
the other drivers) make
recommendations to one another. Extremely helpful
stuff!
The
current Sears Point track is a bit abbreviated - a $35 mil modernization
has
it cut down to 9 turns (until May, 2002), but this current course is
great
fun! It's kind of like an autocross (with hills). Without
long
straights, those of us with non-turbos are CONTENDERS! Other than
a big-bux
Cobra Daytona replicar that showed up on Sunday (and ate up track
like I've
never seen before), everybody was in the same league. Yeah,
there was a C5,
a Viper, a really nice Bimmer or two, some Porsches,
(including a pig-slow
old 944), a Cobra, and a new big-ass "Bullitt" 'Stang,
and some older
4-point-slow types, some older RX-7s, and a couple of Miatas
that kept
getting in everyone's way, etc - a field of maybe 30 cars.
But with all all
of us being fairly experienced drivers on a short, twisty
course, cars like
my Stealth NT and Jeff's MR-S were able to stay with and
even pass cars that
you would think would be "superior". In fact, in
the 3rd run on Sunday,
Jeff ate up the Cobra in an almost-impossible 'wrong'
side pass while
driving Nissa's RX7, and I kept passing the same hesitant
Porsche all
weekend.
ET and I shared the Stealth, and Jeff rans his
MR-S, while Nissa ran the
RX-7 twin turbo. Now I've got no bones saying
that Jeff is a better driver
than I am. (I even had him drive my car
when I thought there was a 'problem
noise', since I trust his judgement so
much). BUT for all of you non-turbo
types, let me tell you that we
still have a shot in this type of
"competition", A.K.A. "Performance
Events". At the end of the weekend, Jeff
switched to driving Nissa's
TT, and in 10 laps he did NOT lap me. And even
with all the power boys
out there, in each run I only had to allow 1 or 2
cars by me on the
straight. Except for one Viper (on turn 7), no one passed
me in the
other two acceptable passing zones. Now that may not seem like a
big
deal until you remember that a base Stealth (and post-97 base 3kGTs)
only
have 164/161 hp stock (my mods have me at ~180hp on the dyno), compared
to
the 260 to the wheels in the RX-7, and who-knows-what high hp in all
those
other cars.
The Stealth ran like a charm! I spent most of the 2
days at 6000rpm, even
hitting the rev-limiter a few times just below 7k (NT
redline is supposedly
6k-8k). I didn't even know we HAD a rev-limiter
in the NT cars! Hopefully,
someone on the list will clarify that for
me... But by driving "the line",
I was really "IN" these races.
Jeff *did* start calling me "Lawn Boy" when
I spun out into the dirt (turn 4)
on Sunday, and on Saturday I did a 360
going up and around turn 3. But
with no cars immediately behind me most of
the time, once I got the feel of
the track, I pushed the limit to see just
what my Stealth could do. And
I learned a lot from these spins about the
balance of the
car.
Important!:
I can't say enough nice things about these
Porterfields (R4S) pads I got
from Jeff (and the Motul brake fluid and SS
lines, too). Stock Stealth NT
rotors. I was screaming into every
corner and stomping the brakes hard, and
I could smell them all through every
run. But there was NO BRAKE FADE! Not
even once! The car
had little or no cool-down time, since as soon as I
finished a run it was
ET's turn for her group. On each day I did 12-15 laps
per run, hitting
the brakes in 60-10mph, 80-20mph and 100-30mph hard braking
on every lap and
I never felt less that confident that I could pull a dead
stop any time I
wanted. (And I almost had to when the damn Cobra cut me off
at the
Carousel). We skipped the last race on Sunday, so that totals 14
runs
that ET and I made in the 2 days. Checking after the race, there
is
still lots of pad left. These pads are AWESOME, and pretty much all
you
need for the much-lighter-weight 3S non-turbos!!!
It was great fun
for all of us, and I can't wait for the next one. It's a
day later and
I'm still pumped! I just LOVE my Stealth!
Gotta go. Best to
all,
Forrest
'94 Stealth NT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 13:39:24
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Sears Point Race Report (semi-long).
> a bunch
of people who all cooperate to the end of safe, fun racing. It's a
-
---
There is no 'racing'..carefull. Thats what got the 'Rice Paddy'
kids in
trouble on Saturday. They werent keyed in to learning..just
"racing".
Everybody there was in a race car, nobody was a race
driver. Careful how
you define the event. *g*
>
"competition", A.K.A. "Performance Events". At the end of the weekend,
Jeff
> switched to driving Nissa's TT, and in 10 laps he did NOT lap
me.
- ---
*heh* Lets get one thing straight. In a pack of 30
cars, in only 20
minutes, with only 2 MAYBE 3 reasonable passing zones, it
wasnt easy to
catch up to you about 25 cars ahead of me. The one time I
was close they
blackflagged me for having the sunroof open.
Next
time..we'll make sure youre in front of me within a reasonable
space..not 3/4
of the pack. *grin*
> only have 164/161 hp stock (my mods have me at
~180hp on the dyno), compared
> to the 260 to the wheels in the RX-7, and
who-knows-what high hp in all
- ---
And only 2700lbs as
well.
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com *
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 19:18:53
-0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Nice home town race track!
Everyone I spoke to, DC Region SCCA Driver's
have said this is a beautiful
track and to run the main course 3.27 miles is
supposed to be a real blast.
Facilities are also real nice and it was just
remodeled and reopened about 2
years ago.
Dave Best
DC Region Tech
Inspector
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <
melvin@gamewood.net>
To: "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, September 09, 2001 2:23 AM
Subject: Team3S: Nice home town race
track!
> Thought some of you track guys might wanna
look into this track and
> see if we could use it.I have'nt really talked
to anyone about that,so
> feel free if you like.Paul Newman(actor, race
driver loves it),and it
> does look fun.
>
http://www.virclub.com/index.htm>
Might be a good place for a gathering.Think it's about done for the
> year
now,but you might wann chack it out.
> RICK
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 18:27:23
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Alky Inj => can use 89/87 octane?
Normally you're going to set the
water/alcohol injection to start at 12 psi
or so which means that everything
under that value has to rely on the
octane of the gas you buy. You could
probably set up the WI system to
start much lower but that would just eat up
gallons of water/alcohol per
tank of gas. The object of the WI is to cool the
intake charge when you
boost above 15 psi and thus delay or reduce
detonation. Notice the use
of the terms, delay or reduce ---- WI is not a
blank check to run 25 #
of boost, there are limits to it's
magic.
Jim
berry
=================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
> I
recently purchased a alcohol injection kit after looking over all of
> the
benefits. Well, I realized that the real benefit of this is that
it
> raises the effective octane of the fuel, while in use. So, if
I'm
> careful to tune this as to avoid knock, can I use lower octane fuel
for
> normal driving? Or am I missing the point of using 93 octane
(in my
> area) in our cars?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#606
***************************************