Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, September 8 2001
Volume 01 : Number
604
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 6 Sep 2001 22:59:19 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front Hub Removal
> Umm... You have to remove the wheel to
remove the center cap...
Nah, it's not necessary to remove the wheels, at
least with my '91 VR4
wheels. I can pop the center caps off from the
front without scratching the
cap or the wheel. Takes about 30 seconds
with a flat blade screwdriver...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 13:04:54
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Detect knock?
Does the TMO logger show knock in "real time" so you can
monitor it while driving??
Mikael Kenson
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>; "Team3S Stealth"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, September 06, 2001 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Detect
knock?
> The best way to detect knock???
>
> Just
take 20 cm long 15mm copper pipe flatten it in one end and drill a 8mm hole thru
the flatted end. Bolt it to one of the lower intake bolts between the cylinder
banks. Go to your local hardware store and buy the cheapest ear covers (don't
know the english word for it, But I think you know what I mean). connect a
garden hose to the round end of the pipe, connect the other end to the ear
covers (drill a hole and seal with silicone). Now you have the perfect knock
monitor. Drive the car. You will for sure notice when knock beggins. This works
1000 times better than any knock sensor. Try it.
>
> /Mikael
Kenson
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Stanton" <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
> To: "Team3S
Stealth" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 4:38 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Detect
knock?
>
>
> > I'm about to install alcohol injection on
my baby, but know that the
> > desire to up boost is there, and I most
likely will...
> >
> > So, for all those of you who can, how
do you detect knock? Knock meter,
> > datalogging, etc?
>
>
> > Thanks!
> > Ken Stanton
> > '91 Pearl White
R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 13:20:41
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Detect knock?
Yes, it does. You can select only the knock
curve or together with the rpm
so one is getting a large display with the
notebook of these two curves.
The PocketLogger too does this.
Please
note, the tools are disabling the ABS when connected at ign-on. If
connected
afterwards ABS still works together with the logger. Interesting
as it is
written down that ABS is always disabled in diagnostic mode but I
tested
this and works fine.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 13:04 07.09.2001 +0200,
Mikael Kenson wrote:
>Does the TMO logger show knock in "real time" so you
can monitor it while
>driving??
>
>Mikael
Kenson
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 08:43:00
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front Hub Removal
1. can't do that on my 1st gen VR4
without messing up the hub cap - to
tight for a Yankee head
screwdriver
2. Can't do that with 2nd gen VR4 hub caps - they come out
the other
direction (inboard) (I learned the hard way)
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Middaugh
[SMTP:kmiddaugh@ixpres.com]
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2001 12:59
AM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Hub Removal
>
>
> > Umm... You have to remove the wheel to remove the center
cap...
>
> Nah, it's not necessary to remove the wheels, at least
with my '91 VR4
> wheels. I can pop the center caps off from the
front without scratching
> the
> cap or the wheel. Takes about
30 seconds with a flat blade screwdriver...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 09:14:22
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: Stillen Sport rotors wear
I promised Flash I would post
measurements from my rotors after the
Heartland Park DE using Panther Plus
pads. Trouble is, I don't know the
thickness when I started! The
rotors were almost new, had one track event
and had been turned
afterwards. I have turned them since Heartland, so here
is my starting
measurement before this weekend at TWS.
F = 1 1/8" (1.125" or
28.575 mm) MIN TH = 28.4 mm (1.12") ST THK (service
manual) = 30 mm
(1.18")
both front rotors measured the same
Totally new crew of
machine shop gave me no feedback on how much they cut.
If you believe we
started at 1.180", then it looks like they took 0.028"
each turning. Looks
like I only have 5 thousandths before hitting the
minimum thickness. At this
rate I get one more turning. Actually, this is
very irritating, because in
the past they've only take a couple of
thousandths off, as in 2 to 5. I
understand this when a rotor is warped,
but these weren't. Need a new
machine shop.
R = 3/4" (0.750" or 19.1 mm) MIN TH = 20 mm (0.79") ST THK
(service manual)
= 18.4 mm (0.72")
That says the rear rotors still
have 0.040" left and they cut only 0.020"
each time, again maybe two
turnings.
Painful lesson learned - give the machine shop explicit
instructions to take
off minimum amount and stand over them to make sure they
don't screw it up.
Which was what I did before with a crew who I
knew.
With a total allowable wear of only 0.060", I can't afford to buy
new rotors
every three events, so I better try to make them last at least two
events
between turning by this moron shop.
Chuck
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 09:18:03
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stillen Sport rotors wear
[Willis, Charles E.]
correction - I can't distinguish min from std
before coffee
R =
[Willis, Charles E.] > 0.030" remaining
Duh.
>
> R = 3/4" (0.750" or 19.1 mm) MIN TH = 20 mm (0.79") ST THK
(service
> manual)
> = 18.4 mm (0.72")
>
> That says
the rear rotors still have 0.040" left and they cut only 0.020"
> each
time, again maybe two turnings.
>
> Painful lesson learned - give
the machine shop explicit instructions to
> take
> off minimum
amount and stand over them to make sure they don't screw it
> up.
>
Which was what I did before with a crew who I knew.
>
> With a
total allowable wear of only 0.060", I can't afford to buy new
>
rotors
> every three events, so I better try to make them last at least
two events
> between turning by this moron shop.
>
>
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 10:30:33
-0400
From: "Mark Elkin" <
markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Keep them wheels clean kids
I'm guessing that you spray the
wheels while they are off the car so as not
to spray your rotors too. I
am assuming silicon lube on a rotor is a bad
thing.
:)
Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF 600R
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jim Berry
Sent: Thursday,
September 06, 2001 9:20 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
3sracers@speedtoys.comSubject:
Team3S: Keep them wheels clean kids
After a thorough cleaning spray
them completely with silicon
spray lubricant, let it dry and wipe off any
excess.
--- It should be noted for any
intellectually
challenged types, that keeping the silicon off the tire
contact
surface is a must
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 07:40:02
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Keep them wheels clean kids
Mark
That would be generally correct
except that in the case of spoke wheels
with lots of space [ like my Enkie
RP01's ] I can put a rag over the rotor
and protect it. I can also do it with
my 94 VR4 rims but it's a little more
of a
hassle.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Mark Elkin <
markelkin@mindspring.com>
>
I'm guessing that you spray the wheels while they are off the car so as
not
> to spray your rotors too. I am assuming silicon lube on a
rotor is a bad
> thing. :)
>
> Mark
> '96
VR-4
> '97 YZF 600R
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 10:12:11
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Keep them wheels clean kids
interesting idea. why not
wipe it on the wheel with a rag?
actually, I use a silicon spray on my
tires after cleaning and before
bagging between events. Yes, tread as
well as sidewall, just not a thick
slimy runny coat. Maybe I should just
spray the wheels at the same time.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jim Berry [SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent:
Friday, September 07, 2001 9:40 AM
> To: Mark Elkin;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Keep them wheels clean kids
>
> Mark
>
> That would be generally correct except that in the case of spoke
wheels
> with lots of space [ like my Enkie RP01's ] I can put a rag over
the rotor
> and protect it. I can also do it with my 94 VR4 rims but it's
a little
> more
> of a hassle.
>
> Jim Berry
>
=================================================
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: Mark Elkin <
markelkin@mindspring.com>
>
> > I'm guessing that you spray the wheels while they are off the car
so as
> not
> > to spray your rotors too. I am assuming
silicon lube on a rotor is a
> bad
> > thing. :)
>
>
> > Mark
> > '96 VR-4
> > '97 YZF
600R
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 11:06:07
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Strut tower brace offer - 07Sep01
3/S owners,
You have the opportunity to get a
front strut tower brace for your
3000GT, SL or VR4-1st or 2nd generation.
(1991 to 1999)
Benefits of a front strut tower brace can be seen at the site
below.
http://e30m3performance.com/myths/Strutbar_Theory/strut_bar_theory.htmThe
address above must all be one line.
If it isn't, then copy it to your browser
as one line to make it work.
Colors available are in stock:
* Chrome <- These are Powder Coating Colors
*
Blue (Candy) <- "
* Red
(Candy) <- "
* Purple (Candy) <- "
*
Raw (Has no finish)
Colors
that are not stock are available for an extra $60.00.
If at least 5
people sign up for the same special color then there will be
no
extra charge.
Strut tower brace with battery hold down is
$350.00.
Strut tower brace without battery hold down is
$310.00.
Strut tower brace without powder coating will be $10.00
less.
The strut tower brace is machined from 6061-T6
Aluminum and uses a solid
brace of . 625 inches x 1.5 inches that connects
to the two strut mounts.
A picture of the prototype bar can be seen
at:
http://pws.ihpc.net/erikgross/3000GT/FrontStrutTowerBar/FrontStrutTowerBar.html
The address above must all be one line.
If it isn't, then copy
it to your browser as one line to make it work.
The prototype you see in the pictures was strengthened at the bend
angles
with "gussets" to eliminate any possibility of flexing.
There
will be pictures of the actual bar coming soon.
A battery hold
down is required because the stock battery & stock hold
down
cannot be used due to clearance.
A battery like the Optima or one with
dimensions of
H= 6.75" x W= 6.813" x L= 9.75" or smaller can be
used.
(H, W, & L can be +or- .125")
Another option is to
relocate your battery to the back so no hold down is
required.
Payment checks will go
to:
Chris
thorne
Apt.
212
1404 East Schulkill
Road
Pottstown, PA 19465
Shipments are made by UPS ground
and will be insured.
NETM1NDER@aol.com is the E-mail address for
Chris Throne.
He can be contacted if you have technical
questions.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 15:45:57
-0400
From: "Jason Barnhart" <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Strut tower brace offer - 07Sep01
I think someone said something
similar before and I think it's a great thing
to finally have one, but at
$300 on the cheap side this has to be the most
expense strut tower brace that
I know of. It's a good thing I was able to
buy my car whole because
buying it a piece at a time would have left me
broke a long time
ago...
Anyone else notice how parts for our car, new or used, are often
more
expensive than for Supras or other cars, but the car itself can be had
for
$10,000 or more less?
Jason
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: "'Team
3S'" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, September 07, 2001 1:06 PM
Subject: Team3S: Strut tower brace offer -
07Sep01
> Colors available are in stock:
> * Chrome
<- These are Powder Coating Colors
> *
Blue (Candy) <- "
> *
Red (Candy) <- "
> * Purple
(Candy) <- "
> * Raw (Has no
finish)
>
> Colors that are not stock are available for
an extra $60.00.
> If at least 5 people sign up for the same
special color then there will
be
>
> no extra
charge.
>
> Strut tower brace with battery hold
down is $350.00.
> Strut tower brace without battery
hold down is $310.00.
> Strut tower brace without powder
coating will be $10.00 less.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 16:15:15
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Keep them wheels clean kids
I like the spray idea cause I'm a bit lazy
--- a quick spray probably
puts a heavier coat on the item --- youze could
experiment and let
me know. I'm sure you'd use less material but it's
relatively cheap.
The spray I use is not a tire dressing, it's a spray
lubricant --- Gunk
heavy duty Silicone Spray Lubricant in the case of the
before Willow
Springs coating. The can says it is safe for use on rubber and
stops
squeaks and sticking --- tires that don't squeak is good, tires that
don't
stick doesn't seem like such a good
thing.
Jim
Berry
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
interesting idea. why not wipe it on the wheel with a rag?
>
> actually, I use a silicon spray on my tires after cleaning and
before
> bagging between events. Yes, tread as well as sidewall,
just not a thick
> slimy runny coat. Maybe I should just spray the wheels
at the same time.
>
> Chuck Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 00:23:27
EDT
From:
Mailmunster@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
new owner '95 stealth needs service manual
first of all thanks to the
admin team for the creation/upkeep of the site.
secondly, i just purchased a
1995 dodge stealth (non-turbo) three wks ago. it
has 97,600
miles on
odometer. after investigating its service history, found that timing
belt
has never been changed. need to do this before disaster strikes. found
qualified person to do job, but need the 1995 dodge stealth service manual.
unable to find it anywhere!
if anyone will sell me one, or loan it to me
:) i will pay all costs of
shipping etc.
please email me:
mailmunster@aol.comthanks in advance
for any help!
anne
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 22:26:34
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: new owner '95 stealth needs service manual
From: <
Mailmunster@aol.com>
-
---------snip----------
After investigating its service history, found that
timing belt has never
been changed. need to do this before disaster strikes.
found qualified
person to do job, but need the 1995 dodge stealth service
manual. unable to
find it anywhere!
-
----------snip----------
> anne
If you look in our FAQ pages
(Basics Section), you'll find the address/phone
on the page, "Where To Buy
the Manuals", (or you can buy {member} Vineet
Singh's "Manual on CD").
You might also want to print out the page on
"Doing the 60k Service", which
includes a 'step-by-step' with photos, the
tools required, and lists the
timing belt and other necessary parts and
prices. That's in the FAQ
pages, too - Maintenance Section. The most
popular dealers who honor
Team3S discounts are Tallahassee Mitsubishi,
Conicelli Mitsubishi,
mitsupartsdirect... Their contact names and
emails/phones are on the
"(Sources for) Parts" Page, also in the FAQ, Basics
Section.
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htmSince the
water pump was not changed, now is the time to do that service,
too.
It's all on the 60k Page, thanks to Rich Leroy. If you have
questions,
direct them to the list, since Rich is away for a few days...
Good
luck!
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2001 14:06:42
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Ignition key won't come out
Hi Folks - here is an unusual problem. I
can't get my key out. The button
next to the key that must be depressed is no
longer attached to anything. It
is about 1.3 inches long, and about 1/4 inch
in diameter. It has a little
hole in it about half way along the shaft. It
does not seem to depress
anything. It does not fall out, but it can be taken
out with minimal force.
Before I start tearing things apart I am wondering if
anyone has any ideas.
I look forward to hearing from
you.
Andy
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#604
***************************************