*New & Improved: http://www.speedtoys.com *

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 19:12:20 -0400
From: "Payne, Scott" <SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: Team3S: AAM

A few days ago someone had a problem on I95 after AAM modified their car. I
was wondering what the resolution was and was it AAM's fault? I was thinking
of using them for some Mods on my car, but now.......

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 16:37:25 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Warped Brake Rotors Resolution

Some of you may recall that a couple weeks ago I installed a brand-new set
of Porterfield cryo-treated front brake rotors that ended I found to be
warped out of the box. Since it was 2 days before a track day, I decided to
machine the rotors and use them rather than sitting out on the track day.
After machining, the rotors worked flawlessly on the street and at the
track.

I sent an e-mail to Porterfield explaining the situation and politely
indicating among other things, that "considering the premium I paid for the
heat-cycling and the cryo-treatment, I feel that I should receive new rotors
in installable/usable condition." I asked what they would like to do to
remedy the situation. I received a message on my home answering machine and
an e-mail within 4 business hours. I talked to Tim and he explained that if
I had not used them at the track, I could have returned them for a new,
unwarped pair of rotors. Since I machined/used the rotors, he offered to
give me a substantial discount on my next set of rotors to compensate for
the lost rotor thickness (and warping resistance) caused by machining them.
I am happy with this resolution and have no qualms about recommending
Porterfield based on this experience.

FYI, Tim said that 5-10% of the rotors they get are warped to some degree
and that the heat-cycling and cryo-treatment processes should not cause a
good, new rotor to warp. Based on that, there should be between a 1/100 and
1/400 chance that a customer would receive 2 warped rotors, but that's what
I got. Not a lucky guy, I guess... but I have street and track brakes that
both work now, so I guess I can't complain :-)

- --Erik
'95 VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 16:57:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Warped Brake Rotors Resolution

Thanks for the update! I was just on the phone with Mark today about that
as well.

Also, they are completing the work on a 2pc OEM replacement rotor.

Will cost in the region of "A lot". The hats will be $250-275/ea *but
these you never have to replace*, the rotors $150-175/ea but will be
superior quality than any OEM replacement rotor..thats just the way those
things are.

Will keep people posted.

On Wed, 5 Sep 2001, Gross, Erik wrote:

> Some of you may recall that a couple weeks ago I installed a brand-new set
> of Porterfield cryo-treated front brake rotors that ended I found to be
> warped out of the box. Since it was 2 days before a track day, I decided to
> machine the rotors and use them rather than sitting out on the track day.
> After machining, the rotors worked flawlessly on the street and at the
> track.
>
> I sent an e-mail to Porterfield explaining the situation and politely
> indicating among other things, that "considering the premium I paid for the
> heat-cycling and the cryo-treatment, I feel that I should receive new rotors
> in installable/usable condition." I asked what they would like to do to
> remedy the situation. I received a message on my home answering machine and
> an e-mail within 4 business hours. I talked to Tim and he explained that if
> I had not used them at the track, I could have returned them for a new,
> unwarped pair of rotors. Since I machined/used the rotors, he offered to
> give me a substantial discount on my next set of rotors to compensate for
> the lost rotor thickness (and warping resistance) caused by machining them.
> I am happy with this resolution and have no qualms about recommending
> Porterfield based on this experience.
>
> FYI, Tim said that 5-10% of the rotors they get are warped to some degree
> and that the heat-cycling and cryo-treatment processes should not cause a
> good, new rotor to warp. Based on that, there should be between a 1/100 and
> 1/400 chance that a customer would receive 2 warped rotors, but that's what
> I got. Not a lucky guy, I guess... but I have street and track brakes that
> both work now, so I guess I can't complain :-)
>
> --Erik
> '95 VR-4
*New & Improved: http://www.speedtoys.com *

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 22:38:28 -0400
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Heading for headers

Hans (mailto:hansertl@groundzeroperformance.com) at groundzero performace is
working on these right now.

Omar

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Robert Koch
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 6:13 PM
To: Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Heading for headers

So being one of those guys that can't ever find anything for an n/t car I
have come to the thought that maybe a header kit, similar to those
edelbrock kits. Complete from the head to the end of the y-pipe. I figure
stainless of course but 1.5 mandrel bent pipes down to a 2.5 then y-pipe
into a 3" for the cat and muffler....now we all know this is for "off road"
use only but my thinking is this....FLOW, FLOW, FLOW. I swear I can feel my
car suffocating itself because of the exhaust. Intake compression
combustion EXHAUST!!!!!!!!
I can't find anything for a performance exhaust set-up except for turbo
back....well rather than dropping 800 for a set-up I cant use or will need
to hack-up has anyone done any research on a header set? I have a neighbor
that is a god when it comes to welding stainless (he runs high 7's in his
maverick) and was talking with me about doing a set for my car. Why not
make 100 I say and so this is step one with yet another project.

I am working on a guinea pig motor project.....anyone have a long block
DOHC that's good they want to sell?

Any thoughts?

Bob K.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 22:40:30 EDT
From: NassiriC@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: People in California have bad gas

Crappy Gas In CA

Ok, after a lot of work and frustration I've determined that the gas (91 RON
- - Oxygenated MTBE process) in California can not support 12+ psi without
detonation (above 5000 rpm - under load - ambient above 70 F). I
tested/replaced every single part on my car that could cause detonation, and
everything checked out OK, but still I had detonation. Then, by chance, I
went to a wedding in Nevada where they have 93 RON non-oxygenated gas. You
guessed it, not a hint of detonation on the 93 stuff. In the process of
figuring this all out I did find some interesting things that are of interest
to CA people, and those that are just octane obsessed.

1. ~Most~ of CA gas was recently downgraded from 92 to 91 octane - take a
look at the pump there is probably a new "91" sticker over the old "92"
sticker.
2. MTBE Oxygenated gas SEEMS to have an effect on detonation - gas that is
rated at 92 RON is really 91 RON after it is oxygenated using the MTBE process
3. Union 76 stations use the "Methanol" process to oxygenate their gas, this
seems to have a positive effect on true octane rating. In practice I get
less detonation on 76 gas then any other supplier.
4. If you use CA gas you may be getting detonation and not even know it
(even on totally stock cars). Check your plugs for aluminum streaking on the
insulator, if you have to, get a magnifying glass and look for tiny aluminum
balls stuck to the insulator. Look at #2 as it seems to run the leanest, and
is more prone to detonation - #2 is the left most cylinder (if you're sitting
in the drivers seat) on the front bank.

So because driving around with only 12 psi is criminal in my speed addicted
mind, I've decided to install H2O injection. I'd like to hear from others
about their experience with various WI systems. How much pressure can you
run with WI, without detonation? Any help/advice would be greatly
appreciated.

Also, I have a question about WI: From my admittedly limited research, I've
found a few notes about WI that indicate that it does not suppress detonation
above 15 - 16 psi - independent of engine configuration. I saw this noted by
two separate sources that I consider very knowledgeable. It doesn't seem
like this could be true, as I've heard that WI is equivalent to 115-135
octane gas.

Just as a side note; a while back there was a thread about WI and whether it
caused long term problems with the internals of the motor. I found some info
about it on the Web. In the late 70's GM did a study of WI cars and found NO
ill-effects, in fact they found that WI cars benefited in terms of valve
deposit reduction. If you're interested, contact me 'off-list' and I'll send
you the info I have.

Hope to hear from you WI guys
Thanks
Cyrus

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 20:09:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: People in California have bad gas

FWIW..

There are 20 locations in California where Union76 sells 100 octane racing
fuel.

I filled up the T/A with it at $4.09/gal here in San Jose.

www.76.com, click on '76 Racing Fuel' 6 bullets down, then click station
locator under 'Competition 100' and enter your zip code. There are 20
locations across California.

So..

Take a hypothetical 20gal tank of 91 octane.
Put in 15gal of 91 at $1.79/gal
Put in 5gal of 100 at $4.10/gal

You have 93 octane fuel at about $2.35/gallon. *Not too bad..its still
the cheapest fuel in the free Western world*

So..turn down the boost, stop pining about it, drive safe and be happy.

Speed costs money, how fast you wanna go?

On Wed, 5 Sep 2001 NassiriC@aol.com wrote:

> Crappy Gas In CA
>
> Ok, after a lot of work and frustration I've determined that the gas (91 RON
> - Oxygenated MTBE process) in California can not support 12+ psi without
> detonation (above 5000 rpm - under load - ambient above 70 F). I
> tested/replaced every single part on my car that could cause detonation, and
> everything checked out OK, but still I had detonation. Then, by chance, I
> went to a wedding in Nevada where they have 93 RON non-oxygenated gas. You
> guessed it, not a hint of detonation on the 93 stuff. In the process of
> figuring this all out I did find some interesting things that are of interest
> to CA people, and those that are just octane obsessed.
>
> 1. ~Most~ of CA gas was recently downgraded from 92 to 91 octane - take a
> look at the pump there is probably a new "91" sticker over the old "92"
> sticker.
> 2. MTBE Oxygenated gas SEEMS to have an effect on detonation - gas that is
> rated at 92 RON is really 91 RON after it is oxygenated using the MTBE process
> 3. Union 76 stations use the "Methanol" process to oxygenate their gas, this
> seems to have a positive effect on true octane rating. In practice I get
> less detonation on 76 gas then any other supplier.
> 4. If you use CA gas you may be getting detonation and not even know it
> (even on totally stock cars). Check your plugs for aluminum streaking on the
> insulator, if you have to, get a magnifying glass and look for tiny aluminum
> balls stuck to the insulator. Look at #2 as it seems to run the leanest, and
> is more prone to detonation - #2 is the left most cylinder (if you're sitting
> in the drivers seat) on the front bank.
>
> So because driving around with only 12 psi is criminal in my speed addicted
> mind, I've decided to install H2O injection. I'd like to hear from others
> about their experience with various WI systems. How much pressure can you
> run with WI, without detonation? Any help/advice would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Also, I have a question about WI: From my admittedly limited research, I've
> found a few notes about WI that indicate that it does not suppress detonation
> above 15 - 16 psi - independent of engine configuration. I saw this noted by
> two separate sources that I consider very knowledgeable. It doesn't seem
> like this could be true, as I've heard that WI is equivalent to 115-135
> octane gas.
>
> Just as a side note; a while back there was a thread about WI and whether it
> caused long term problems with the internals of the motor. I found some info
> about it on the Web. In the late 70's GM did a study of WI cars and found NO
> ill-effects, in fact they found that WI cars benefited in terms of valve
> deposit reduction. If you're interested, contact me 'off-list' and I'll send
> you the info I have.
>
>
> Hope to hear from you WI guys
> Thanks
> Cyrus

*New & Improved: http://www.speedtoys.com *

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 23:22:30 -0400
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: HID Headlight Question

Hi All,

I was reading in "European Sports Car" magazine over the weekend about a
company that makes drop in replacements of HID bulbs for lights like H1's
and such. Since I have installed the Hella H1 headlight kit on my 93
Stealth ES, I thought I'd look into it. Costs about USD600-700, depending
on what stage you get.

Here's the URL to their homepage:
http://www.hids4less.com

While I'm waiting for a reply from them, anyone here familiar either this
company, or upgraded their own machine to HID lights?

Thanks

Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES (bone stock - except for the headlights...)

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 21:43:13 -0600
From: "Thomas Jeys" <tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: Buggy Stock Alarm

Speaking of alarms, I just had a Viper 600ESP installed in my baby. The
Viper works great, but inconsistently the stock alarm will arm itself and go
off when I get into the car. The thing that really drives me crazy is that
it doesn't happen every time, only once in a while. I find myself having to
disconnect the negative battery terminal every time it goes off (putting my
key in the ignition doesn't help). I know where the stock system is and how
to tear it out, I just want to know if that will have and adverse effects on
my car and/or if anyone knows of a better solution.

Thanks!!!
- -T.J.
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 20:46:45 -0700
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: People in California have bad gas

sorry no WI here, but I live in CA and have no problems by mixing 50:50
with Motorsport 103 and 91 pump gas. This is the best solutions since
you aren't leaning out the mixture with alcohol based additives. There
is a pump in Orange CA where you can get 103 for about $5 a gallon. It
is well worth it to me. I boost at 15 psi with no hints of detonation.

Rich
92 Stealth TT

NassiriC@aol.com wrote:
>
> Crappy Gas In CA
>
> Ok, after a lot of work and frustration I've determined that the gas (91 RON
> - Oxygenated MTBE process) in California can not support 12+ psi without
> detonation (above 5000 rpm - under load - ambient above 70 F). I
> tested/replaced every single part on my car that could cause detonation, and
> everything checked out OK, but still I had detonation. Then, by chance, I
> went to a wedding in Nevada where they have 93 RON non-oxygenated gas. You
> guessed it, not a hint of detonation on the 93 stuff. In the process of
> figuring this all out I did find some interesting things that are of interest
> to CA people, and those that are just octane obsessed.
>
> 1. ~Most~ of CA gas was recently downgraded from 92 to 91 octane - take a
> look at the pump there is probably a new "91" sticker over the old "92"
> sticker.
> 2. MTBE Oxygenated gas SEEMS to have an effect on detonation - gas that is
> rated at 92 RON is really 91 RON after it is oxygenated using the MTBE process
> 3. Union 76 stations use the "Methanol" process to oxygenate their gas, this
> seems to have a positive effect on true octane rating. In practice I get
> less detonation on 76 gas then any other supplier.
> 4. If you use CA gas you may be getting detonation and not even know it
> (even on totally stock cars). Check your plugs for aluminum streaking on the
> insulator, if you have to, get a magnifying glass and look for tiny aluminum
> balls stuck to the insulator. Look at #2 as it seems to run the leanest, and
> is more prone to detonation - #2 is the left most cylinder (if you're sitting
> in the drivers seat) on the front bank.
>
> So because driving around with only 12 psi is criminal in my speed addicted
> mind, I've decided to install H2O injection. I'd like to hear from others
> about their experience with various WI systems. How much pressure can you
> run with WI, without detonation? Any help/advice would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Also, I have a question about WI: From my admittedly limited research, I've
> found a few notes about WI that indicate that it does not suppress detonation
> above 15 - 16 psi - independent of engine configuration. I saw this noted by
> two separate sources that I consider very knowledgeable. It doesn't seem
> like this could be true, as I've heard that WI is equivalent to 115-135
> octane gas.
>
> Just as a side note; a while back there was a thread about WI and whether it
> caused long term problems with the internals of the motor. I found some info
> about it on the Web. In the late 70's GM did a study of WI cars and found NO
> ill-effects, in fact they found that WI cars benefited in terms of valve
> deposit reduction. If you're interested, contact me 'off-list' and I'll send
> you the info I have.
>
> Hope to hear from you WI guys
> Thanks
> Cyrus

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 21:17:22 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Buggy Stock Alarm

> I find myself having to disconnect the negative battery
> terminal every time it goes off (putting my key in the
> ignition doesn't help). I know where the stock system
> is and how to tear it out, I just want to know if that
> will have and adverse effects on my car and/or if anyone
> knows of a better solution.

You can disarm the stock alarm, even if it's going off, by unlocking the
driver's door with the key. That will at least eliminate the "disconnecting
the battery" inconvenience.

- --Erik

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 22:11:33 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Trivia 2

In the FWIW department, my 92TT has 36K and I'm still running the original
timing belt. I'm going to run one more track event in a couple weeks before
putting the car up on the stands to dig in. Hopefully it will hold up for
one more run.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 22:07:36 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Hub Removal 2

Chuck,

Thanks for the confirmation. I'm inclined to agree.

> I believe you have this backwards for VR4's. The front hub/bearing is a
> single assembly and can be removed without disconnecting any ball joint.
If
> there's a lto of corrosion you might have to whack it to get it off the
> axle, but once the retaining bolts on the rear of the hub arre removed,
> that's it. The REAR hub is actually more trouble than the front.
>
> Chuck

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 22:46:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: HID Headlight Question

The "problem" is that the reflector for your H1 is nothing like what HID
requires.

Your beam pattern will be ungodly hazardous to other drivers. Thats the
main reason the swap is illegal.

Far be it from me to be the moral authority, but Ive damn near started
carrying a concelable .22 in the car with me for all those "kits" I run
into ahead & behind me on the road.

On Wed, 5 Sep 2001, Dennis and Anita Moore wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I was reading in "European Sports Car" magazine over the weekend about a
> company that makes drop in replacements of HID bulbs for lights like H1's
> and such. Since I have installed the Hella H1 headlight kit on my 93
> Stealth ES, I thought I'd look into it. Costs about USD600-700, depending
> on what stage you get.
>
> Here's the URL to their homepage:
> http://www.hids4less.com
>
> While I'm waiting for a reply from them, anyone here familiar either this
> company, or upgraded their own machine to HID lights?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dennis Moore
> 93 Stealth ES (bone stock - except for the headlights...)
>
*New & Improved: http://www.speedtoys.com *

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 22:54:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Trivia 2

You'll be the first to know.

On Wed, 5 Sep 2001, bdtrent wrote:

> In the FWIW department, my 92TT has 36K and I'm still running the original
> timing belt. I'm going to run one more track event in a couple weeks before
> putting the car up on the stands to dig in. Hopefully it will hold up for
> one more run.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 23:06:38 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: mis-fire and smog problem

Bob is referring to the capacitors on the ECU (the main computer). It is
located behind the radio. There are 3 capacitors that can leak and cause
these symptoms.

Another possibility: a disconnected or leaky hose, or a bad boost control
solenoid valve causing you to overboost. If you are overboosting and have a
stock spark plug gap, you will have these symptoms. I did. It turned out
to be a broken hose barb on the boost control solenoid valve.

Good luck,
Ken

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "ian sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: mis-fire and smog problem

> Thanks Bob.
>
> Bob suggested my problem might lie in the capacitor failure mentioned in
> previous archives. I searched the archive and could only find one
reference
> which did not give details. Does anyone have any more info on where the
caps
> are, how to check them and what the car does if they are bad?
>
> By the way,the problem my stock VR4 has is a bad miss above 4000rpm,
> slightly rough idle and an emmision problem (california requirement). I
have
> changed coil, plugs, wires, filter, PCV - the emmisions are a little
better
> but thats all (HC levels too high)
>
> thanks
> Ian
> stock red vr4 '92
>
>
> >From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
> >To: "ian sweeney" <sween3000gt@hotmail.com>, <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> >Subject: Re: Team3S: mis-fire and smog problem
> >Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 13:47:37 -0700
> >
> >It could be the capacitor failure that's been mentioned before on the
list.
> >Go to the Search Page to pull up past discussions on the subject.
> >www.Team3S.com/Search.htm Then again, I'm not sure that would show up in
> >only two rear cylinders. You might want to search "missing" or
"misfire",
> >too.
> >
> >As to emissions... Of course, it *could* be an ECU problem, but for
> >starters (and assuming the misfire affected the emissions only slightly)
> >did
> >you make sure the cats were good and hot *before* you had the emissions
> >test? Cats get *much* more efficient when they're hot compared to when
> >they're cold. It could mean the difference between a pass or fail in the
> >CARB requirement. Always go for a run on the highway before an emissions
> >test...
> >
> >Best,
> >
> >Forrest

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 23:13:46 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Hub Removal

Removing the nut the "proper" way is no problem if you do this as step one,
before you jack up the car...you just have to have a little foresight...

> The "proper" way is to take the nuts off is to remove the center caps from
> your two front wheels and put the wheels back on and lower the car to the
> ground and then crank on the nuts through the center cap holes. That's
> pretty much a waste of time compared to the screwdriver method.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 23:37:42 -0700
From: Jim Elferdink <macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Hub Removal

Umm... You have to remove the wheel to remove the center cap...
- -------------------------------------------
Jim Elferdink

> From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
> Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 23:13:46 -0700
> To: "Team 3S" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Hub Removal
>
> Removing the nut the "proper" way is no problem if you do this as step one,
> before you jack up the car...you just have to have a little foresight...
>
>> The "proper" way is to take the nuts off is to remove the center caps from
>> your two front wheels and put the wheels back on and lower the car to the
>> ground and then crank on the nuts through the center cap holes. That's
>> pretty much a waste of time compared to the screwdriver method.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 06:39:19 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: 4 Sale - 18" VR4 Chrome wheels & Tires

$1200.00
Factory Mitsubishi VR4 18" CHROME 6 spoke wheels and
3 Michelin Pilot XGT Z4 245/40/ZR18.
The 4th tire has a cut in sidewall can be fixed I'd suggest get a new one.
Some parking dings but are in great cond.
The 4 tires have about 30% life left.
Price $1200.00 wheels & tires
Please, Email Direct
aso8@aol.com

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 07:47:58 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Warped Brake Rotors Resolution

Wow, 5-10% are warped, I guess Oskar and I must have been real lucky when we
ordered ours and both of our sets were warped......

Francis
'96 R/T TT

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 6:37 PM
To: Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Warped Brake Rotors Resolution

Some of you may recall that a couple weeks ago I installed a brand-new set
of Porterfield cryo-treated front brake rotors that ended I found to be
warped out of the box. Since it was 2 days before a track day, I decided to
machine the rotors and use them rather than sitting out on the track day.
After machining, the rotors worked flawlessly on the street and at the
track.

I sent an e-mail to Porterfield explaining the situation and politely
indicating among other things, that "considering the premium I paid for the
heat-cycling and the cryo-treatment, I feel that I should receive new rotors
in installable/usable condition." I asked what they would like to do to
remedy the situation. I received a message on my home answering machine and
an e-mail within 4 business hours. I talked to Tim and he explained that if
I had not used them at the track, I could have returned them for a new,
unwarped pair of rotors. Since I machined/used the rotors, he offered to
give me a substantial discount on my next set of rotors to compensate for
the lost rotor thickness (and warping resistance) caused by machining them.
I am happy with this resolution and have no qualms about recommending
Porterfield based on this experience.

FYI, Tim said that 5-10% of the rotors they get are warped to some degree
and that the heat-cycling and cryo-treatment processes should not cause a
good, new rotor to warp. Based on that, there should be between a 1/100 and
1/400 chance that a customer would receive 2 warped rotors, but that's what
I got. Not a lucky guy, I guess... but I have street and track brakes that
both work now, so I guess I can't complain :-)

- --Erik
'95 VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 08:18:59 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: People in California have bad gas

so how much is a bottle of octane booster per tankful?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 10:09 PM
> To: NassiriC@aol.com
> Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: People in California have bad gas
>
> FWIW..
>
> There are 20 locations in California where Union76 sells 100 octane racing
> fuel.
>
> I filled up the T/A with it at $4.09/gal here in San Jose.
>
> www.76.com, click on '76 Racing Fuel' 6 bullets down, then click station
> locator under 'Competition 100' and enter your zip code. There are 20
> locations across California.
>
> So..
>
> Take a hypothetical 20gal tank of 91 octane.
> Put in 15gal of 91 at $1.79/gal
> Put in 5gal of 100 at $4.10/gal
>
> You have 93 octane fuel at about $2.35/gallon. *Not too bad..its still
> the cheapest fuel in the free Western world*
>
> So..turn down the boost, stop pining about it, drive safe and be happy.
>
> Speed costs money, how fast you wanna go?
>
> On Wed, 5 Sep 2001 NassiriC@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Crappy Gas In CA
> >
> > Ok, after a lot of work and frustration I've determined that the gas (91
> RON
> > - Oxygenated MTBE process) in California can not support 12+ psi without
>
> > detonation (above 5000 rpm - under load - ambient above 70 F). I
> > tested/replaced every single part on my car that could cause detonation,
> and
> > everything checked out OK, but still I had detonation. Then, by chance,
> I
> > went to a wedding in Nevada where they have 93 RON non-oxygenated gas.
> You
> > guessed it, not a hint of detonation on the 93 stuff. In the process of
>
> > figuring this all out I did find some interesting things that are of
> interest
> > to CA people, and those that are just octane obsessed.
> >
> > 1. ~Most~ of CA gas was recently downgraded from 92 to 91 octane - take
> a
> > look at the pump there is probably a new "91" sticker over the old "92"
> > sticker.
> > 2. MTBE Oxygenated gas SEEMS to have an effect on detonation - gas that
> is
> > rated at 92 RON is really 91 RON after it is oxygenated using the MTBE
> process
> > 3. Union 76 stations use the "Methanol" process to oxygenate their gas,
> this
> > seems to have a positive effect on true octane rating. In practice I
> get
> > less detonation on 76 gas then any other supplier.
> > 4. If you use CA gas you may be getting detonation and not even know it
>
> > (even on totally stock cars). Check your plugs for aluminum streaking
> on the
> > insulator, if you have to, get a magnifying glass and look for tiny
> aluminum
> > balls stuck to the insulator. Look at #2 as it seems to run the
> leanest, and
> > is more prone to detonation - #2 is the left most cylinder (if you're
> sitting
> > in the drivers seat) on the front bank.
> >
> > So because driving around with only 12 psi is criminal in my speed
> addicted
> > mind, I've decided to install H2O injection. I'd like to hear from
> others
> > about their experience with various WI systems. How much pressure can
> you
> > run with WI, without detonation? Any help/advice would be greatly
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Also, I have a question about WI: From my admittedly limited research,
> I've
> > found a few notes about WI that indicate that it does not suppress
> detonation
> > above 15 - 16 psi - independent of engine configuration. I saw this
> noted by
> > two separate sources that I consider very knowledgeable. It doesn't
> seem
> > like this could be true, as I've heard that WI is equivalent to 115-135
> > octane gas.
> >
> > Just as a side note; a while back there was a thread about WI and
> whether it
> > caused long term problems with the internals of the motor. I found some
> info
> > about it on the Web. In the late 70's GM did a study of WI cars and
> found NO
> > ill-effects, in fact they found that WI cars benefited in terms of valve
>
> > deposit reduction. If you're interested, contact me 'off-list' and I'll
> send
> > you the info I have.
> >
> >
> > Hope to hear from you WI guys
> > Thanks
> > Cyrus

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 08:22:23 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Hub Removal

removing the center caps requires removing the wheels, so there's still a
lot of raising and lowering.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Middaugh [SMTP:kmiddaugh@ixpres.com]
> Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 1:14 AM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Hub Removal
>
> Removing the nut the "proper" way is no problem if you do this as step
> one,
> before you jack up the car...you just have to have a little foresight...
>
> > The "proper" way is to take the nuts off is to remove the center caps
> from
> > your two front wheels and put the wheels back on and lower the car to
> the
> > ground and then crank on the nuts through the center cap holes. That's
> > pretty much a waste of time compared to the screwdriver method.

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 08:35:53 -0500
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Warped Brake Rotors Resolution

Gee Francis.... You and Oskar should start playing the lottery with your
luck... :-) All kidding aside.... I think there is a warpage problem with
Porterfield's cyroed rotors. With Erik, Francis, and Oskar all getting
warped rotors out of the box within the last year, there is definatly more
than a 5-10% chance. I've heard from one other person who had this same
problem a while back, but I can't remember who it was. Someone who has the
"in" at Porterfield, (like Geoff, maybe??) should speak to Porterfield about
this to ensure that there is a fix. The problem is now out there for
everyone to absorb. Buyer beware....

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org

>From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
>To: "'Gross, Erik'" <erik.gross@intel.com>, "Team3S (E-mail)"
><Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Warped Brake Rotors Resolution
>Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 07:47:58 -0500
>
>Wow, 5-10% are warped, I guess Oskar and I must have been real lucky when
>we
>ordered ours and both of our sets were warped......
>
>
>Francis
>'96 R/T TT
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 6:37 PM
>To: Team3S List (E-mail)
>Subject: Team3S: Warped Brake Rotors Resolution
>
>
>Some of you may recall that a couple weeks ago I installed a brand-new set
>of Porterfield cryo-treated front brake rotors that ended I found to be
>warped out of the box. Since it was 2 days before a track day, I decided
>to
>machine the rotors and use them rather than sitting out on the track day.
>After machining, the rotors worked flawlessly on the street and at the
>track.
>
>I sent an e-mail to Porterfield explaining the situation and politely
>indicating among other things, that "considering the premium I paid for the
>heat-cycling and the cryo-treatment, I feel that I should receive new
>rotors
>in installable/usable condition." I asked what they would like to do to
>remedy the situation. I received a message on my home answering machine
>and
>an e-mail within 4 business hours. I talked to Tim and he explained that
>if
>I had not used them at the track, I could have returned them for a new,
>unwarped pair of rotors. Since I machined/used the rotors, he offered to
>give me a substantial discount on my next set of rotors to compensate for
>the lost rotor thickness (and warping resistance) caused by machining them.
>I am happy with this resolution and have no qualms about recommending
>Porterfield based on this experience.
>
>FYI, Tim said that 5-10% of the rotors they get are warped to some degree
>and that the heat-cycling and cryo-treatment processes should not cause a
>good, new rotor to warp. Based on that, there should be between a 1/100
>and
>1/400 chance that a customer would receive 2 warped rotors, but that's what
>I got. Not a lucky guy, I guess... but I have street and track brakes
>that
>both work now, so I guess I can't complain :-)
>
>--Erik
>'95 VR-4

*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 06:55:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: People in California have bad gas

Octane booster is junk...imho.

On Thu, 6 Sep 2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:

> so how much is a bottle of octane booster per tankful?
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Geoff Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 10:09 PM
> > To: NassiriC@aol.com
> > Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: People in California have bad gas
> >
> > FWIW..
> >
> > There are 20 locations in California where Union76 sells 100 octane racing
> > fuel.
> >
> > I filled up the T/A with it at $4.09/gal here in San Jose.
> >
> > www.76.com, click on '76 Racing Fuel' 6 bullets down, then click station
> > locator under 'Competition 100' and enter your zip code. There are 20
> > locations across California.
> >
> > So..
> >
> > Take a hypothetical 20gal tank of 91 octane.
> > Put in 15gal of 91 at $1.79/gal
> > Put in 5gal of 100 at $4.10/gal
> >
> > You have 93 octane fuel at about $2.35/gallon. *Not too bad..its still
> > the cheapest fuel in the free Western world*
> >
> > So..turn down the boost, stop pining about it, drive safe and be happy.
> >
> > Speed costs money, how fast you wanna go?
> >
> > On Wed, 5 Sep 2001 NassiriC@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > Crappy Gas In CA
> > >
> > > Ok, after a lot of work and frustration I've determined that the gas (91
> > RON
> > > - Oxygenated MTBE process) in California can not support 12+ psi without
> >
> > > detonation (above 5000 rpm - under load - ambient above 70 F). I
> > > tested/replaced every single part on my car that could cause detonation,
> > and
> > > everything checked out OK, but still I had detonation. Then, by chance,
> > I
> > > went to a wedding in Nevada where they have 93 RON non-oxygenated gas.
> > You
> > > guessed it, not a hint of detonation on the 93 stuff. In the process of
> >
> > > figuring this all out I did find some interesting things that are of
> > interest
> > > to CA people, and those that are just octane obsessed.
> > >
> > > 1. ~Most~ of CA gas was recently downgraded from 92 to 91 octane - take
> > a
> > > look at the pump there is probably a new "91" sticker over the old "92"
> > > sticker.
> > > 2. MTBE Oxygenated gas SEEMS to have an effect on detonation - gas that
> > is
> > > rated at 92 RON is really 91 RON after it is oxygenated using the MTBE
> > process
> > > 3. Union 76 stations use the "Methanol" process to oxygenate their gas,
> > this
> > > seems to have a positive effect on true octane rating. In practice I
> > get
> > > less detonation on 76 gas then any other supplier.
> > > 4. If you use CA gas you may be getting detonation and not even know it
> >
> > > (even on totally stock cars). Check your plugs for aluminum streaking
> > on the
> > > insulator, if you have to, get a magnifying glass and look for tiny
> > aluminum
> > > balls stuck to the insulator. Look at #2 as it seems to run the
> > leanest, and
> > > is more prone to detonation - #2 is the left most cylinder (if you're
> > sitting
> > > in the drivers seat) on the front bank.
> > >
> > > So because driving around with only 12 psi is criminal in my speed
> > addicted
> > > mind, I've decided to install H2O injection. I'd like to hear from
> > others
> > > about their experience with various WI systems. How much pressure can
> > you
> > > run with WI, without detonation? Any help/advice would be greatly
> > > appreciated.
> > >
> > > Also, I have a question about WI: From my admittedly limited research,
> > I've
> > > found a few notes about WI that indicate that it does not suppress
> > detonation
> > > above 15 - 16 psi - independent of engine configuration. I saw this
> > noted by
> > > two separate sources that I consider very knowledgeable. It doesn't
> > seem
> > > like this could be true, as I've heard that WI is equivalent to 115-135
> > > octane gas.
> > >
> > > Just as a side note; a while back there was a thread about WI and
> > whether it
> > > caused long term problems with the internals of the motor. I found some
> > info
> > > about it on the Web. In the late 70's GM did a study of WI cars and
> > found NO
> > > ill-effects, in fact they found that WI cars benefited in terms of valve
> >
> > > deposit reduction. If you're interested, contact me 'off-list' and I'll
> > send
> > > you the info I have.
> > >
> > >
> > > Hope to hear from you WI guys
> > > Thanks
> > > Cyrus