Ian
Try the Search Page using this, exactly:
capacitor +bad
It turned up 688 references. Lots of previous
discussions!
Good luck!
Forrest
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 19:53:01
-0700
From: Rick <
melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help Needed (Fuel and Ignition)
My '91 R/T ,and '92 T/T, do
and have always had that little surge,are whatever
at or about 4000rpm.I
can't find anything wrong with anything.(figgered all of
them did it)and it's
worse cold.Has anyone found the problem,and corrected it?Is
the
crankshaft position sensor really the problem?Anyone else tried it,to find
it
not?
RICK
"Maupin, Justin" wrote:
> I am having a similar
problem with my 92 RT/TT when in the sun, if I go to
> start it... it has
a rough time trying idle... and when I go to drive it,
> there is a big
dead spot in accelerator until I drive it out a bit... mostly
> its just
really annoying... but I would love to know what it is so that I
> can fix
it...
>
> So far I have heard its the O2 sensor, crankshaft position
sensor, bad fuel
> pump, clogged injectors, and a bad ECU. Is there
any concensus to what
> causes this or am I going to spend a lot of money
acting like a autoshop and
> changing things out at random until I get the
fix.
>
> Justin
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Ken Middaugh [mailto:kmiddaugh@ixpres.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August
28, 2001 7:38 PM
> To: Willard R. Semple;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help Needed (Fuel and Ignition)
>
> I had very
similar problems. My engine would not start, or it would start
> and
run for 30 seconds after sitting in the hot sun. It was the
>
crankshaftposition sensor (over $300 for this part!). Folks have
reported
> these
> symptoms before as it is not an uncommon
problem.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 13:45:59
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Trivia 2
> If, the timing belt ( and hopefully water pump and
tensor pulley)
> is a replacement requirement every 60,000 miles (that's
every
> 100,000 kms outside the USA) ...then what is the
replacement
> increment in time (years) as opposed to distance
(miles/kilometers)?
FWIW, the local dealer here and several of my non-3S
gearhead
friends have all said that the timing belt replacement is primarily
due to
mechanical wear and not belt age. I even got the
amicably-smirking "you're
an obsessive-compulsive idiot" treatment from some
when I said I planned to
replace the belt at 35,000 miles this
winter.
Mine is a '95 (mfg 7/94) with 34,000 miles on it, so my belt
is
about 7 years old. I'm probably going to replace it this winter
since it's
destined to be an open-track car and thus subject "more than
normal" abuse.
And the peace of mind from knowing the belt is definitely
within its service
interval is worth something.
- --Erik
"The
money-pit just gets deeper..." ;)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 18:10:19
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Trivia
2
Erik'
Thanks for the placating comment. It may well be an
anal retentive thing on
my part (albeit I am very late developing this
tendency) an obsessive
compulsive one on yours (translates the same).
Anyway, I will endeavor to
post a pic of the belt once it comes off for
anyone interested in a low
miles but high years belt, so we can have hard
evidence on this matter of
important
trivia.
Best
Darc
snippity do da...
> even got
the amicably-smirking "you're
> an obsessive-compulsive idiot" treatment
from some when I said I planned
to
> replace the belt at 35,000 miles
this winter....snip..
.
> And the peace of mind from knowing the belt
is definitely within its
service
> interval is worth
something.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 18:32:23
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trivia 2
> friends have all said that the timing belt
replacement is primarily due to
> mechanical wear and not belt age.
-
---
Its plastic & rubber for the most part, it does in fact age, and will
in
fact fail with age, even if it never turns.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 18:23:08
-0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front Hub Removal 2
I don't think so. I believe the rear hubs
slide in and out by hand, but I
don't think so on the front. If I'm wrong, I
apologize.
Ryan Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp-
-----Original Message-----
From: bdtrent
[mailto:bdtrent@netzero.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 3:38 PM
To:
ryanp@crcwnet.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Front Hub Removal 2
I'm not sure about this description.
Ryan
wrote:
> Need a ball joint
> separator for the lower ball and
steering tie rod. Unbolt the strut,
> brakes, and
steering. Pull the hub out, then take it to a machine
shop
so
> they can press out the hub. Likely you will need a new
bearing too, as
this
> will probably tear it apart.
>
>
Ryan Peterson
Not to second guess you Ryan, but this seems like way too
much work. After
studying the manual, it looks to me like the hub/wheel
bearing assembly can
be removed from the steering nuckle without removing the
ball joint, tie rod
or strut. This would also eliminate destroying the
wheel bearings. If, as
Merrit indicates, any front end shop can do both
sides in less than an hour,
than this would make Ryans description unlikely
for simply replacing wheel
studs. Can anyone confirm or deny
this?
BTW The studs can't be removed one at a time without pulling the hub
at
least part way out. I've tried. It looks like it should work
but
unfortunately it's not even
close.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 20:07:41
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Front Hub Removal 2
I'm not sure about this
description.
Ryan wrote:
> Need a ball
joint
> separator for the lower ball and steering tie rod.
Unbolt the strut,
> brakes, and steering. Pull the hub
out, then take it to a machine shop
so
> they can press out
the hub. Likely you will need a new bearing too, as
this
>
will probably tear it apart.
>
> Ryan
Peterson
Not to second guess you Ryan, but this seems like way too
much work. After
studying the manual, it looks to me like the hub/wheel
bearing assembly can
be removed from the steering nuckle without removing the
ball joint, tie rod
or strut. (I believe this only applies to the turbo
cars) This would also
eliminate destroying the wheel bearings. If, as
Merrit indicates, any front
end shop can do both sides in less than an hour,
than this would make Ryans
description unlikely for simply replacing
wheel
studs. Can anyone confirm or deny this?
BTW The studs can't be
removed one at a time without pulling the hub at
least part way out.
I've tried. It looks like it should work but
unfortunately it's not
even close.
Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 18:46:08
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re Trivia
2
>...it does in fact age, and will in
> fact fail with
age...
Amen...as do we all ;-)))
Best
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 08:07:15
-0400
From: "Donnelly, Michael" <
DonnellM@ctc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Front Hub Removal
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 00:01:35 -0500
From:
"Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com<
mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Hub Removal
> Well, it's not
complicated, but you need the right tools,
> and some time. Will
probably need a long lever arm of
> some kind to lock the front axle from
turning when you
> unscrew the main axle nut.
You can just jam a
screwdriver in the cooling vanes of the brake
rotors and
turn the rotor
until the screwdriver is jammed up against the brake
caliper.
Works fine,
and I've done it on several 3/S and DSM cars with no ill
effects.
Almost all have required use of a 24" or longer breaker
bar to get
the nut
off, however.
The "proper" way is to take the nuts off is to remove the
center
caps from
your two front wheels and put the wheels back on and
lower the car
to the
ground and then crank on the nuts through the center
cap holes.
That's
pretty much a waste of time compared to the screwdriver
method.
I've encountered a couple cars where the splines on the hub are
so
rusted to
the splines on the halfshafts that they simply can't be
removed
without
risking damaging something. That really
sucks.... (Or I just need
a bigger
hammer?)
An interesting
thing I found out this weekend while replacing a
couple
tranny seals on a
'98 3000GT SL was that you can actually get the
axles out
of the tranny
without removing the axles from either wheel hub. His
were so
rusted
to the hubs that I got desperate enough to try finishing the
job
without
removing the axles completely from the car. Its tight, but
you
can
get them out by only disconnecting the struts and the tie rod
end
balljoint.
Don't know if that would work on an AWD vehicle, but the
dimensions
of the
axles and tranny seemed very similar to the Getrag
setup.
Now if only there was a better way to get the darn driver's
side
halfshaft
carrier bearing support unbolted/bolted.... Whoever
designed these
cars has
way smaller and more agile hands than I
do!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
Recently, on a 6 hour
return trip from Ohio my vehicle started a humming
sound almost to the point
of a growl. I can also feel it emanating through
the acceleration
pedal. I'm concerned that it might be a bearing and or a
CV
joint? It seems to be getting louder but I'm hoping that
re-greasing
will fix the problem but I sincerely doubt that. I do
remember having a
similar problem on my old college car (85 Dodge Daytona FWD
2.2 liter turbo)
I remember replacing the whole hub knuckle and drive shaft
assembly with one
I found in a bone yard. Which almost made me lose my
religion because of
the difficulty with getting the drive shaft to compress
to the point where I
could insert the hub into the lower arm ball
joint. Would it be best to
have the whole works replaced or just
press in a new bearing (of which I
don't have the tools to do myself).
This does make me wonder if it's my driving habits that are helping
cause
these problems?
Michael Donnelly
'94 Stealth R/T
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 08:48:26
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trivia 2
Seven years is plenty of use. I still disagree
that timing belt replacement
is primarily due to "mechanical wear". If
you look at an old timing belt,
there are still plenty of well defined
"teeth". The belt looses elasticity,
some of which is compensated by
the belt tensioner. This aging
(embrittlement) is accellerated by
running in a hot engine compartment and
secondarily by oxidizing in ambient
air. The rate of a chemical reaction
(which is what ages belts) doubles
with each increase of ten degrees
(centigrade) in temperature.
So if
you equate 34K miles with a little over half of the "five year=60K
miles"
model, your car had 2.5 plus 2 years, or almost five years of
sitting
around. If the belt temperature during operation is 10 degrees C
higher
than the ambient temperature, then the sitting around time equals 2.5
years
of use, so it is time to change the belt. Be sure to take a picture
of
your old belt when you remove it. Deterioration is most evident
by
turning the belt inside out.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, September 04, 2001 3:46 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Trivia 2
>
> > If, the timing belt ( and hopefully water
pump and tensor pulley)
> > is a replacement requirement every 60,000
miles (that's every
> > 100,000 kms outside the USA) ...then what is
the replacement
> > increment in time (years) as opposed to distance
(miles/kilometers)?
>
> FWIW, the local dealer here and several of
my non-3S gearhead
> friends have all said that the timing belt
replacement is primarily due to
> mechanical wear and not belt age.
I even got the amicably-smirking
> "you're
> an obsessive-compulsive
idiot" treatment from some when I said I planned
> to
> replace the
belt at 35,000 miles this winter.
> Mine is a '95 (mfg 7/94) with 34,000
miles on it, so my belt is
> about 7 years old. I'm probably going
to replace it this winter since
> it's
> destined to be an
open-track car and thus subject "more than normal"
> abuse.
> And
the peace of mind from knowing the belt is definitely within its
>
service
> interval is worth something.
>
>
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 08:56:14
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front Hub Removal 2
I believe you have this backwards for
VR4's. The front hub/bearing is a
single assembly and can be removed
without disconnecting any ball joint. If
there's a lto of corrosion you might
have to whack it to get it off the
axle, but once the retaining bolts on the
rear of the hub arre removed,
that's it. The REAR hub is actually more
trouble than the front.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Ryan Peterson [SMTP:ryanp@crcwnet.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, September 04, 2001 8:23 PM
> To: Stealth List
> Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front Hub Removal 2
>
> I don't think so. I believe the
rear hubs slide in and out by hand, but I
> don't think so on the front.
If I'm wrong, I apologize.
>
> Ryan Peterson
>
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: bdtrent
[mailto:bdtrent@netzero.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 3:38
PM
> To:
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Hub Removal 2
>
>
> I'm not sure
about this description.
>
> Ryan wrote:
>
> > Need
a ball joint
> > separator for the lower ball and steering tie
rod. Unbolt the strut,
> > brakes, and steering. Pull
the hub out, then take it to a machine shop
> so
> > they can
press out the hub. Likely you will need a new bearing too, as
>
this
> > will probably tear it apart.
> >
> > Ryan
Peterson
>
> Not to second guess you Ryan, but this seems like way
too much work.
> After
> studying the manual, it looks to me like
the hub/wheel bearing assembly
> can
> be removed from the steering
nuckle without removing the ball joint, tie
> rod
> or strut.
This would also eliminate destroying the wheel bearings. If,
>
as
> Merrit indicates, any front end shop can do both sides in less than
an
> hour,
> than this would make Ryans description unlikely for
simply replacing wheel
> studs. Can anyone confirm or deny
this?
> BTW The studs can't be removed one at a time without pulling the
hub at
> least part way out. I've tried. It looks like it
should work but
> unfortunately it's not even close.
>
>
Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 09:00:27
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front Hub Removal
how many miles on your '94? did your
car operate in a corrosive
environment, like near the ocean, or where salt is
put on the roads in
winter? if you are around 80K miles, your front wheel
bearings could be
suspect.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Donnelly, Michael [SMTP:DonnellM@ctc.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 7:07 AM
> To:
'team3s-digest@mail.speedtoys.com'>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Hub Removal
>
> This does make me wonder
if it's my driving habits that are helping cause
> these problems?
>
> Michael Donnelly
> '94 Stealth R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 08:03:55
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Upgrade/Repair Suggestions
Hi Alan,
You may want to
consider installing an EGT exhaust
temp gauge.
A couple of spare
oil & water line gaskets cause you
are sure to drop at least one.
A wobble extension and almost every 14mm type of
socket Sears makes
will also be helpful as well as a
bottle of peroxide for all of the scrapes
your hands
will suffer trying to get the heat shield off of the
back
turbo.
BTW you don't have to put back all of the bolts
holding the
rear heat shield. You'll know which ones
I mean.
An air
ratchet would be a helpful tool.
Consider straightening the fins of the
intercoolers.
Supra pump is fine.
Good luck,
John ,
member of the dirty fingernails club
- --- "Alan C. Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com> wrote:
> The
oil seals in my turbos are going and I need to
> repalce them. Because
the
> car is my daily driver I can not afford the time to
> send
them off and have
> them rebuilt.
>
> My plan is to get a
pair of Dynamic Racing's DR500's
> and install them. I
> plan to
upgrade the fuel pump as well.
>
> I got this parts list from Jeff
l's upgrade page:
>
> Turbo-Manifold Gasket (2) MD168266
>
Turbo-Manifold Seal Ring (2) MD077551
> Turbo-O2Housing Gasket (2)
MR188537
> Studs: Front Turbo-O2Housing (4) MD165887
> Studs: Rear
Turbo-Manifold (3) MD165887
>
> My questions:
>
> 1)
Other that the parts on Jeff's turbo upgrade page
> any
recomendations?
>
> 2) Which fuel pump should I get Supra, Denso
,
> Something else?
>
> 3) My car is basically stock now.
Other than gutting
> the cats, Is their
> anything anyone would
recomend doing while I'm
> there(that does not cost
> much/is
free)?
>
> Thanks in advance guys
'93 TT with Porsche brakes and
Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH 5/97
almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 11:48:38
-0400
From: "Alan Sheffield" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Upgrade/Repair Suggestions
> BTW you don't have to put back
all of the bolts
> holding the rear heat shield. You'll know which
ones
> I mean.
Yes, I know the one you mean. When we upgraded
Jeff's car to gtpro 357s' a
few months ago we stripped that one trying to get
it out and anded up prying
it out.
Alan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 12:47:33
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Alarm Installation...
Well, I have installed a few alarms on a
few different cars, but never
my 3K. I always just used the factory
passive alarm that arms itself
when you lock the doors - I didn't even use
the remote. Anyway, I just
bought a pretty nice UNGO MS2005 with all
the cool features I could ever
want, and probably won't even use.
I also know that this has been discussed a million times, but what
is
the best way to wire this puppy in. I am not wanting it under the
dash,
as space is already limited due to my horns down there. Also -
that's
the first place a thief would look. I was thinking more of the
factory
alarm location, but not sure if I would have all the correct
things
there. Also - has anyone really disconnected their factory
alarm? What
happens when you do - does everything else still work
correctly? It
seems the factory alarm interfaces with a lot of
different things - door
locks, door pins, etc. Anyone have first hand
experience here?
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 12:47:16
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Alarm Installation...
Well, I have installed a few alarms on a
few different cars, but never
my 3K. I always just used the factory
passive alarm that arms itself
when you lock the doors - I didn't even use
the remote. Anyway, I just
bought a pretty nice UNGO MS2005 with all
the cool features I could ever
want, and probably won't even use.
I also know that this has been discussed a million times, but what
is
the best way to wire this puppy in. I am not wanting it under the
dash,
as space is already limited due to my horns down there. Also -
that's
the first place a thief would look. I was thinking more of the
factory
alarm location, but not sure if I would have all the correct
things
there. Also - has anyone really disconnected their factory
alarm? What
happens when you do - does everything else still work
correctly? It
seems the factory alarm interfaces with a lot of
different things - door
locks, door pins, etc. Anyone have first hand
experience here?
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 17:53:43
+0000
From: "v t" <
vr4spyder@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: vr4 spyder top mechanism
Does the mechanism for the top require
regular maintenance, ie grease/oil?
If so where and how often?
thanks
a lot
Vambi
95VR4Spyder
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 13:58:19
-0400
From:
JCourcelle@NerveWire.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Alarm Installation...
My installer left the factory alarm
installed, and then integrated a K9
system on top of it. This eliminated any
potential conflicts that may have
resulted from removing the factory system,
but also put a nice twist on the
alarm. Although the primary system can be
disarmed via remote, the factory
system remains armed until the key is used
to disarm it.
It adds an extra step to getting into the car, but also adds a
piece of mind
for me.
As far as location, make sure that the backup
battery is somewhere inside
the car and not in the engine compartment. Most
alarms can be circumvented
with an over the counter taser gun when used on
the hood directly over the
battery terminals, which will pass the current to
the alarm and fry it. An
inline fuse can take care of this, and the backup
will take up the slack.
Hope this helps.
Jeff
1991 Stealth
R/T
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 13:18:51
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: vr4 spyder top mechanism
> Does the mechanism for the top
require regular maintenance,
> ie grease/oil? If so where and how
often?
Nothing particularly special. You may want to lightly lube
the header
alignment pins with grease, but other than that there's nothing
required.
Another good thing to check is the hydraulic fluid levels in the
reservoirs
mounted on the pumps. They are in the trunk, under the cover
forward of the
spare tire area. There are high/low level lines on the
reservoirs.
The fluid is MIL-H-5606 aviation hydraulic fluid or
compatible.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 15:12:30
-0700
From: Robert Koch <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Heading for headers
So being one of those guys that can't ever
find anything for an n/t car I
have come to the thought that maybe a header
kit, similar to those
edelbrock kits. Complete from the head to the end of
the y-pipe. I figure
stainless of course but 1.5 mandrel bent pipes
down to a 2.5 then y-pipe
into a 3" for the cat and muffler....now we all
know this is for "off road"
use only but my thinking is this....FLOW, FLOW,
FLOW. I swear I can feel my
car suffocating itself because of the exhaust.
Intake compression
combustion EXHAUST!!!!!!!!
I can't find anything for a
performance exhaust set-up except for turbo
back....well rather than
dropping 800 for a set-up I cant use or will need
to hack-up has anyone done
any research on a header set? I have a neighbor
that is a god when it comes
to welding stainless (he runs high 7's in his
maverick) and was talking with
me about doing a set for my car. Why not
make 100 I say and so this is step
one with yet another project.
I am working on a guinea pig motor
project.....anyone have a long block
DOHC that's good they want to
sell?
Any thoughts?
Bob K.
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#600
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