Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, September 3
2001 Volume 01 : Number
598
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 3 Sep 2001 00:37:13 -0400
From: Jon Apostoles <
jon@ncfpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Stock CD
Players
Does the stock 91' 3000GT VR-4 CD Player have one of those
security deals
where if the car is jumped or anything will require a code
for the radio / cd
player to come back on? My CD Player has been very
tempermental as far as
staying on (at one point it seemed like large bumps
would toggle it on and
off), and as of recently it hasnt been working at
all. Any ideas?
-- Jon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 00:21:07
-0500
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stock CD Players
Sounds like a wire or connector is
loose. Probably the +12 wire or the
ground wire. It could also be
a fuse or a short (+12 is touching ground
somewhere) If it had the security
code feature it would still have power but
it would say "Locked" or something
like that. Also it wouldn't be
intermitent.
Check the fuse
first. Then take it out and make sure the harness(es) are
plugged in
tightly. You should aslo inspect all the wires for any cuts that
expose
the metal inside the plastic. To help track down the spot, try
jiggle
the wires in different places to see if it comes on and off.
If none of
that works, you may have to test the radio itself by hooking it
up an
alternate way or plugging in a different radio (if one is available)
to the
existing wiring.
Christopher
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Jon Apostoles" <
jon@ncfpc.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, September 02, 2001 11:37 PM
Subject: Team3S: Stock CD
Players
> Does the stock 91' 3000GT VR-4 CD Player have one of
those security deals
> where if the car is jumped or anything will require
a code for the radio /
cd
> player to come back on? My CD Player
has been very tempermental as far as
> staying on (at one point it seemed
like large bumps would toggle it on and
> off), and as of recently it
hasnt been working at all. Any ideas?
>
> --
Jon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 15:44:46
+0700
From: "Mei Harijanto" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject:
Team3S: Fw: DETONATION
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mei
Harijanto" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000.gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, September 03, 2001 3:15 PM
Subject: DETONATION
> I have
tried several times adjusting ignition timing advance or retard +-
2
>
from 5 deg. BTDC but when I accelerate the rpm, engine always knocking.
It
> sounds like detonation and this problem make me hesitate because
engine
has
> low performance in rpm.
> Please advise what
something else should I adjust it.
>
> Thanks
>
Mei
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 13:04:19
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fw: DETONATION
> I have tried several times adjusting
ignition timing advance or
> retard +-2 from 5 deg. BTDC but when I
accelerate the rpm,
> engine always knocking. It sounds like detonation
and this
> problem make me hesitate because engine has low
performance
> in rpm. Please advise what something else should I
adjust it.
It could be something more serious than knocking. Could
be a broken piston
or a spun rod bearing as well. The car's computer
will automatically adjust
timing if the knock sensor is working
properly. It could be a bad knock
sensor also.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 11:16:05
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fw: DETONATION
If you're hearing the knock you may have another problem
--- detonation
is usually hard to hear. Many people have damaged their
engines because
they had knock and couldn't hear it. Engine knock usually
comes at heavy loads,
lots of boost and higher rpm.
you said you had
low performance at rpm --- is the performance bad at
high rpm or does it
start at low rpm.
Jim
Berry
===================================================
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mei Harijanto" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
>
>
> > I have tried several times adjusting ignition timing
advance or retard +-
> 2
> > from 5 deg. BTDC but when I
accelerate the rpm, engine always knocking. It
> > sounds like
detonation and this problem make me hesitate because engine
> has
>
> low performance in rpm.
> > Please advise what something else
should I adjust it.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
Mei
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 11:58:01
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: My latest trip..
Not much team3s content, other than to say I may
be on the road to some
interest at LPE (Lingenfelter Performance Engineering)
on doing some study
& work on our motor.
More details as they come
in..over a great # of months..so dont hold yer
breath.
*New &
Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 16:13:23
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: Trivia
2
yo Team;
Low traffic lately...not much in terms of
posted information over a great
North American (that's a whole
continent) holiday weekend. Hope all of your
activity was
superb!
Sooo...here's trivia question #2 (after the late great center of
horizontal
balance question). This should be much easier...but will it be
;-)) Seems
easier anyway........
If, the timing belt ( and hopefully
water pump and tensor pulley) is a
replacement requirement every 60,000 miles
(that's every 100,000 kms outside
the USA) ...then what is the replacement
increment in time (years) as
opposed to distance (miles/kilometers)
???????? My 92 Steed has low kms and
no one (that's nada) has supplied the
answer.
Best
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 16:40:09
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Trivia 2
Good question.
The tensioner isnt really a
wear item. Just a hydraulic tensioner. When
the tension is let
off of it, you just replace it.
Now..the belt.
Its
rubber/etc. It will get old, dry out, and if it sits for really
long
periods the belt will tend to form itself and THEN deteriorate
quicker
when it gets used. I would say that every 5yrs if you dont
actually reach
60k should be a good point to swap it.
On Mon, 3 Sep
2001, Darc wrote:
> yo Team;
>
> Low traffic lately...not
much in terms of posted information over a great
> North
American (that's a whole continent) holiday weekend. Hope all of your
>
activity was superb!
>
> Sooo...here's trivia question #2 (after
the late great center of horizontal
> balance question). This should be
much easier...but will it be ;-)) Seems
> easier anyway........
>
> If, the timing belt ( and hopefully water pump and tensor pulley) is
a
> replacement requirement every 60,000 miles (that's every 100,000 kms
outside
> the USA) ...then what is the replacement increment in time
(years) as
> opposed to distance (miles/kilometers) ???????? My 92
Steed has low kms and
> no one (that's nada) has supplied the
answer.
>
> Best
>
> Darc
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 19:54:33
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Trivia 2
Wait, wait, are you saying that ANY time tension is let
off of the tensioner, it
should be replaced?
Ken Stanton
Geoff
Mohler wrote:
> Good question.
>
> The tensioner isnt
really a wear item. Just a hydraulic tensioner. When
> the
tension is let off of it, you just replace it.
>
> Now..the
belt.
>
> Its rubber/etc. It will get old, dry out, and if it
sits for really long
> periods the belt will tend to form itself and THEN
deteriorate quicker
> when it gets used. I would say that every 5yrs
if you dont actually reach
> 60k should be a good point to swap
it.
>
> On Mon, 3 Sep 2001, Darc wrote:
>
> > yo
Team;
> >
> > Low traffic lately...not much in terms of
posted information over a great
> > North American (that's a
whole continent) holiday weekend. Hope all of your
> > activity was
superb!
> >
> > Sooo...here's trivia question #2 (after the
late great center of horizontal
> > balance question). This should be
much easier...but will it be ;-)) Seems
> > easier
anyway........
> >
> > If, the timing belt ( and hopefully
water pump and tensor pulley) is a
> > replacement requirement every
60,000 miles (that's every 100,000 kms outside
> > the USA) ...then
what is the replacement increment in time (years) as
> > opposed
to distance (miles/kilometers) ???????? My 92 Steed has low kms and
> >
no one (that's nada) has supplied the answer.
> >
> >
Best
> >
> > Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 18:20:33
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trivia 2
Geoff sounds right, at least that is how often I
would want to do it on
my car if I were driving very little miles. After all,
12,000 miles
(average of miles for most people) X 5 years = 60,000 miles in
five
years.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales
Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Darc
Sent: Monday, September
03, 2001 4:13 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Trivia 2
yo
Team;
Low traffic lately...not much in terms of posted
information over a
great North American (that's a whole continent) holiday
weekend. Hope
all of your activity was superb!
Sooo...here's trivia
question #2 (after the late great center of
horizontal balance question).
This should be much easier...but will it
be ;-)) Seems easier
anyway........
If, the timing belt ( and hopefully water pump and tensor
pulley) is a
replacement requirement every 60,000 miles (that's every 100,000
kms
outside the USA) ...then what is the replacement increment in
time
(years) as opposed to distance (miles/kilometers) ???????? My 92
Steed
has low kms and no one (that's nada) has supplied the
answer.
Best
Darc
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 20:45:27
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Front Hub Removal
All,
I need to pull my front hub to
install longer wheel studs. Does anyone know
if I can simply use a
wheel puller to pull the hub from the steering nuckle?
Assuming this is the
case, it sounds like a fairly easy job. Otherwise, I
might have to take
my car to a professional who can hack up my car and get
paid, as opposed to
me hacking up my car all by
myself.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 21:13:16
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front Hub Removal
>I need to pull my front hub to install
longer wheel studs. Does anyone know
>if I can simply use a wheel
puller to pull the hub from the steering nuckle?
>Assuming this is the
case, it sounds like a fairly easy job. Otherwise, I
>might have to
take my car to a professional who can hack up my car and get
>paid, as
opposed to me hacking up my car all by myself.
>
Yes, it's an easy job.
I've never done it personally, but I snapped off 3-4
wheel studs before I
learned about anti-sieze compound, and then had
extended studs installed for
my wheel spacers, so I've watched three
different tire and front end places
do the job. It really is something they
can handle in about an hour for both
sides.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 20:39:57
-0700
From: Bob Forrest <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Trivia 2
- ---------some snippage----------
> If, the
timing belt ( and hopefully water pump and tensor pulley) is
a replacement
requirement every 60,000 miles (that's every 100,000 kms
outside the USA)
...then what is the replacement increment in time
(years) as opposed to
distance (miles/kilometers) ???????? My 92
Steed has low kms and no one
(that's nada) has supplied the answer.
- ---Darc
-
----------------------
I asked my dealer the same question a year
ago. He didn't have an
answer, so he contacted the belt
manufacturer. They recommended a
belt change of 5-7 years - 5 years if
weather extremes are
encountered, with an absolute maximum of 7 years for
milder
environments. My '94 Stealth is definitely due, even at 25,000
miles
(40k Km). Although countless members have encountered no
problems
even at 10 years on the original belt, you know how pricey it can
be
if it suddenly fails. Both our cars are on borrowed time,
IMO...
Let's do the 60k now, Darc. I was just looking at Rich's 60k
page
this weekend. :-)
www.Team3S.com/60k.htmBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 21:48:20
-0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front Hub Removal
Well, it's not complicated, but you need the
right tools, and some time.
Will probably need a long lever arm of some kind
to lock the front axle from
turning when you unscrew the main axle nut.
The manual says you can have
someone step on the brakes for this, but I had
no luck that way. I took a
long piece of angle iron and drilled holes for the
lugs. Then braced that
against the ground while I cranked on the nut.
Same thing in reverse for
reinstall (will need well over 100 ft-lbs of
torque). Need a ball joint
separator for the lower ball and steering tie
rod. Unbolt the strut,
brakes, and steering. Pull the hub
out, then take it to a machine shop so
they can press out the hub. Likely you
will need a new bearing too, as this
will probably tear it apart.
Ryan
Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of bdtrent
Sent: Monday,
September 03, 2001 6:45 PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: Front Hub
Removal
All,
I need to pull my front hub to install longer
wheel studs. Does anyone know
if I can simply use a wheel puller to
pull the hub from the steering nuckle?
Assuming this is the case, it sounds
like a fairly easy job. Otherwise, I
might have to take my car to a
professional who can hack up my car and get
paid, as opposed to me hacking up
my car all by myself.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#598
***************************************