Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, September 1 2001
Volume 01 : Number
596
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 31 Aug 2001 16:45:00 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: All season tires TT/VR-4?
Hi Sam: I have sport 5000 tires
on all four wheels in stock size. I love
them. I was pushing them really hard
the other day. I live in the Sierras
and have lots of mountain roads to play
with. The other day these tires took
me through a curve at 65 that maxes out
my bmw at 55. They did not even emit
a squeal. I don't do anything on the
track, and generally I drive pretty
conservatively, but when you need to
stick, these tires seem to stick quite
nicely.
Andy Woll
93 AWD
Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 20:25:39
-0400
From: "Brian Collins" <
bcturbo@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch survey/friction
Jeff,
You are getting a little
closer but still not quite correct. The web page
you found probably did
more to confuse the situation than explain it. The
reason they used
surface area in their calculations is because they are
using a normal
PRESSURE and not a normal force. In this case, the normal
force, and
thus the friction force, will depend on the area times
the
pressure.
The torque that you mention is still not dependant on
surface area if you
have a given normal force. The torque is simply the
resultant friction
force multiplied by the perpendicular distance to the axis
of rotation.
Consider the case of a single brake pad and rotor. If the
normal force
between the two surfaces is 100 lbs and the coefficient of
friction is 0.4,
the friction force will be 100 x 0.4 = 40 lbs. If the
center of the pad
area is 5 inches from the center of the rotor, the
torque will be 5 x 40 =
200 in*lbs. This is why is it better to get the
pad as far away from the
center of the rotor as possible- more torque.
Now if we were to add more
pistons and thus more piston surface area, the
normal force would be larger
since the normal force is the total piston area
times the hydraulic
pressure. In this case, more surface area makes a
difference for the
better.
I think the main reasons that brake pads
and clutches don't have surface
areas the size of quarters is because of
wear, heat dissipation, and
structural rigidity (you don't want a tiny brake
pad being ripped off the
caliper when you hit the brake). The web page
I presented in my earlier
post explains one of many reasons why larger tire
contact patches are
better. Hope this helps to clear things up a
little.
Brian Collins
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 03:11:14
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Updated
www.rtec.ch wit Turbo Timer
manual
Dear members, I just updated my site htttp://www.rtec.ch and
included a
direct link to my Blitz DSBC manual as well as I uploaded the many
times
asked scans of the English version of Blitz Turbo Timer manual
(DTT)
Also the RTEC online shop is in test mode so if you are living
outside the
US please do not order something as they will not be processed.
It will go
live soon when my db problem is solved (argh
!)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 21:19:24
EDT
From:
Sportsmobile101@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Car won't start update. Please help.
Hi
team,
I
wrote to the list the other day, because my car didn't start.
I
thought it was the fuel pump and i was adviced to take the filter out and
check to see if the pump worked, i did and it does work, i replaced the
filter just in case that was clogged, but still the car didn't start.
I
Checked the engine fuse and it is good, i've also checked the front spark
plugs to see if they fire and they do. I made sure the mas sensor was
plugged. Please advice on what i should check next, the starter sounds
ok,
but just in case i also tried to pop start the car and it didn't.
Please let
me know what you think. Thanks in advace.
Christian, 92
SL.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 18:40:41
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S:
Clutch survey/friction
I've yet to do any digging on the topic but
you get my 2¢ anyway --- the
reason area is left out of the friction
force equation is because two mating
materials will only be in contact
at a few square micro inches because of
surface irregularities. I'm not
sure that same reasoning applies to devices
that are bedded in like
brakes and clutches --- they require the surfaces to
rub together to
form a better mating surface than would otherwise be
available to the
materials [ maybe many more square micro inches of
contact ??? ] ---
donno, but, in the case of clutches and brakes it seem
like it
has to be more than just force perpendicular to the direction of
motion.
Jim Berry [ any responses to this missive
should be directed at Jeff Lucius
]
=======================================================
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: Brian Collins <
bcturbo@hotmail.com>
>
>
> Jeff,
> >
> > You are getting a little closer but still
not quite correct. The web page
> > you found probably did more
to confuse the situation than explain it. The
> > reason they
used surface area in their calculations is because they are
> > using a
normal PRESSURE and not a normal force. In this case, the normal
>
> force, and thus the friction force, will depend on the area times
the
> > pressure.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 23:05:32
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hesitation...again
Yup, O2 is a big suspect. That was the
case on my '91 TT. It was most evident
under vacuum conditions (as
opposed to boost) and was NOT noticeable under WOT
(ECU ignores O2).
Hooking the car to a scantool (Snap-On I have used) will
reveal the answer
pretty quickly. Mine had part of the sensor element broken,
when
replaced, the car ran like a charm. BOL.
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White
R/T TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
"Michael D. Crose"
wrote:
> My car is still experiencing hesitation between 2-3,000
rpm. I have looked
> through quite a few of the archived posts and
most of the hesitation
> problems were diagnosed as TPS sensor
failure. I finally got around to
> checking my TPS sensor and it was
in spec.
>
> The hesitation is most evident when the motor is still
warming up, so I
> think that rules out fuel problems (doesn't it run full
rich during warm
> up?). It only happens when I am lightly
accelerating, so it probably isn't
> clutch related. I just replaced
my plugs and wires 6,000 miles ago, most
> likely not the problem.
The problem started about four weeks ago and I had
> not done anything to
the car around that time.
>
> What else can I check, O2
sensors? I am running an FIPK and test pipe, the
> boost has never
been raised and these are the only modifications that the
> car has ever
had.
>
> Thanks,
> Michael D. Crose
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2001 01:32:59
-0400
From: "Katrikh, Robert" <
robert.katrikh@mssm.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Problems after installing new MOds
I was driving back from
Altered Atmosphere after they installed their
custom exhaust starting from
the down pipe all the way to the tips. And
also got the Apex'i AFC Fuel
Computer installed...
They Dyno'd the car and everything was
fine(tough test, meaning the car
was running fine). I was running 300hp to
the wheels. After they were
done i get on the i95 to go home and after about
driving for 2hrs and a
couple of hard accelerations later... i try to
accelerate again and i
hear that when the turbos try to spool up they let the
air out and i
cant get any boost. It happens simultaneously the harder i
press the gas
the more air gets released and the car hesitates to accelerate.
Do you
think the turbo might have went... Or can it be that one of
the
connections are loose. They also tapped the EGT guage into the header
by
drilling a hole... Maybe that could be letting the air out....
Please
help... I need your oppinion... My mods are below... By the way i
turned
of the boost controller just in case and the problem still
presisted...
92 3000GT VR4
HKS ECV IV
HKS TURBO
TIMER-1
HKS Blow off VAlve
No Cats -- AAM Exhaust --
Downpipe
Apexi AFC
K&N Intake
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 03:34:51
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Problems after installing new MOds
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Katrikh, Robert <
robert.katrikh@mssm.edu>
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Saturday, September 01, 2001 12:51 AM
Subject: Team3S: Problems after
installing new MOds
>I was driving back from Altered Atmosphere after
they installed their
>custom exhaust starting from the down pipe all the
way to the tips. And
>also got the Apex'i AFC Fuel Computer
installed...
>They Dyno'd the car and everything was fine(tough test,
meaning the car
>was running fine). I was running 300hp to the wheels.
After they were
>done i get on the i95 to go home and after about driving
for 2hrs and a
>couple of hard accelerations later... i try to accelerate
again and i
>hear that when the turbos try to spool up they let the air
out and i
>cant get any boost. It happens simultaneously the harder i
press the gas
>the more air gets released and the car hesitates to
accelerate. Do you
>think the turbo might have went... Or can it be that
one of the
>connections are loose. They also tapped the EGT guage into the
header by
>drilling a hole... Maybe that could be letting the air out....
Please
>help... I need your oppinion... My mods are below... By the way i
turned
>of the boost controller just in case and the problem still
presisted...
- -------
Sounds like you may have blown off
an
intercooler hose or the Y-pipe.
It's happened to most of us at one
time or another.
(some of us several times)
- -
tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 20:27:18
-0400
From: "Boris" <
BPeguero@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: car for ale
Hello everybody,
I out of all people, never
thought it would come to this, but unfortunately
it is hard for me to justify
keeping a car that I love so much and put so
much time, energy, and money
into when it has spun a connecting rod bearing
on me for the second
time. It is just getting too expensive and I can't
generate $7,000
every time I spin a connecting rod bearing to get it fixed.
My car is
being sold as is. It is a 1991 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo.
The
following is a list of the modifications I have added to the car. A
lot of
the work for which has been done by two very reputable companies,
Primespeed
Motorsports and Altered Atmosphere Motorsports. It's well
worth the mods
alone. If you choose to re-build the motor, you will
have a car that
screams. I hate to part with it. It has been my
greatest passion and has
received tremendous amount of care and maintenance
over the past few years.
The mods on this vehicle are as
follows:
BRAND NEW AAM Y-Pipe
AAM aluminum spark plug cover
BRAND
NEW AAM spec 15G turbos (only 500 miles on the turbos)
BRAND
NEW HKS intercoolers (only 500 miles with intercoolers installed)
HKS
Vein Pressure Converter with HKS 550cc chip
HKS Super Power Mega Flow
Intake
HKS upgraded fuel pump
BRAND NEW Apexi Super AFC (only 500
miles since installed)
Blitz Dual Solenoid Boost Controller
Blitz Super
Sound Blow Off Valve
Greddy 550cc fuel injectors
Greddy Turbo
Timer
Greddy air/fuel ratio meter
2 Greddy exhaust temperature gauges with
tripod
PowerStop cross-drilled brake rotors
RPS stage III carbon
clutch and throwout bearing (only 500 miles--just
breaking in)
ATR
downpipe
ATR high flow catalytic converter
Gutted pre-cats
Borla
catback exhaust
Goodridge braided stainless steel brake lines
MSD-4
Ignition System
Denzo Irridium spark plugs
8.5mm Magnecore spark plug
wires
Freshly re-built transfer case by Altered Atmosphere
Eibach Pro-Kit
springs
Razo shift knob
BRAND NEW Viper 600 series security
system
White face gauges
GTR Combat Spoiler
Currently on 255/40/ZR17's
BF Goodridge G Force KD tires
Alpine 12 disc CD changer w/ removable face
head unit & remote control
Alpine V12 400 watt amplifier
JL Audio 6"
door speakers with tweeters
Included is BRAND NEW synchros--- first, second,
third, fourth, fifth and
reverse!!! I purchased these a while ago with
Jack Tertadian's one time
only opportunity that he got through a Mitsu
rep. Never installed.
Packaged away for a rainy day if they were
needed. When at AAM recently, I
had the ones in the car now checked and
I was told that they were in great
condition and that I wouldn't have to
worry about using the brand new ones
for a while.
If you are
interested in making an offer to purchase my car, please e-mail
me privately
at
BPeguero@mediaone.net.
I've
very much enjoyed owning this car. It has by far been the
most
exhilarating and pleasurable vehicle I've ever owned and driven.
If you
choose to rebuild the engine, know that this car has had excellent
care and
the mods that were installed have all been installed and tuned
properly.
Or, if you choose to purchase the automobile just for the mods
alone, it
would be well worth it just in the products I've listed. The
names and
reputations of the quality parts installed on this car speak for
themselves.
Serious inquiries only.
Very
sincerely,
Boris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#596
***************************************