Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Friday, August 31 2001    Volume 01 : Number 595




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 15:17:30 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: potential transfer case problem

My fault.  Case of the Mondays.  I forgot it was a ratio (hence the name)
instead of a true measurement like the width and diameter.

For all you non-AWD guys don't forget about plus sizing.  I have 245/40/18
(street) and 245/40/17 tires (track) and when I jack up the car I have to
get it another inch higher since the 17s are the same ratio (therefore
lower) instead of a plus size which would be 245/45/17 I believe.

Thanks.

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: cody [mailto:overclck@starband.net]
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 3:12 PM

Flash - maybe ya need to read up on our FAQ about tire diameters and
plus sizing.

The second part of a tire size is it's aspect ratio, or the height of
the tire, which is a percentage of the width of the tire.  The basic
"radius" is half the wheel size plus a percentage of the width on tires.

http://www.team3s.com/FAQplussizing.htm


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 13:17:01 -0700
From: Robert Koch <eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject: Team3S: Start a gathering or group road trip in the NW.

NW club members,
Is anyone in the Northwest area that would want to get an annual gathering
together for a road trip?
I can't get to Texas or the East Coast and Calif. Is still far away for a
weekend run. I want to feel like I have friends.......:). Lets get
something going before the summer ends.
I am thinking about maybe a car show / cruise thing

Any input?

Bob K.
93 R/T
FIPK KV85's
Bradi cross drilled and slotted rotors
ADR Enigma 17's 245/45

The web site will be up and going by 9pm pacific time tonight.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 14:20:58 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: Team3S: Radiator, custom ?

Anyone know a source for an "improved" radiator for our cars ?
The stock one isn't cooling good enough and it's brand new.

Jim

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 14:00:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Radiator, custom ?

Generally our radiators work pretty well, even for the high-output
crowd. However, if there's nothing wrong with yours or the thermostat
(right?), then there are some aluminum radiators out there. Talk to
the speed shops that specialize in our cars like GT PRO and Dynamic
Racing. My info is out of date from 3 years ago when I rebuilt my
engine, but at the time shops were offering "upgrades".

Now that I think of it, my coolant temps hit 209-215 at Norwalk (DSM
shootout) but my car idled a lot while waiting for practice runs (no
battery in the portable for the TMO datalogger; now I have
PocketLOGGER) and it was over 90ºF out. Would an aluminum radiator
keep temps down in the 180's in a situation like that?

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: "'Team 3S'" <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 2:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: Radiator, custom ?

Anyone know a source for an "improved" radiator for our cars ?
The stock one isn't cooling good enough and it's brand new.

Jim

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 17:02:39 -0400
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: potential transfer case problem

Yes, 1991.702 vs 2048.222 may sound like a problem, but if it was just
one tire, then one axle averages 1991.702 per tire, but the other axle
only 2019.962.  If it was 2 tires on opposite axles, then there is no
problem.

Robert Koch <eK2mfg@foxinternet.com> wrote: >
>I believe that the tire size is as follows:
245 = distance in mm for width
>45 = % of width from rim area to tread---or profile
>
>so a 225/45 tire is 634.3 mm high or 1991.702 in circumference and 652.3 x 2048.222
>respectively. I think you may have a problem.........

- --
Marc J. Jacobs '94 Blue VR-4
xDSL Hardware Development
Alcatel, USA     (919) 850-6386

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 15:13:19 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Radiator, custom ?

Jeff,
I have tried 5 different thermostats of various temperature ranges,
new hoses and a new radiator.
Prior to the new radiator we back flushed the cooling system 5 or 6
times.
I don't know if you remember but I am the one who has vapor locking
during the Summer.
I see Bozz Speed has a $1,250 + but the guy I talk to says is only
.25 inch thicker than stock.
GT Pro is developing one with better capacity but it is probably
going to have to wait until after their move, the CF hood and the ECU
replacement projects.
Dynamic Racing hasn't returned my call yet.

Jim

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 3:01 PM
To: Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Radiator, custom ?


Generally our radiators work pretty well, even for the high-output
crowd. However, if there's nothing wrong with yours or the thermostat
(right?), then there are some aluminum radiators out there. Talk to
the speed shops that specialize in our cars like GT PRO and Dynamic
Racing. My info is out of date from 3 years ago when I rebuilt my
engine, but at the time shops were offering "upgrades".

Now that I think of it, my coolant temps hit 209-215 at Norwalk (DSM
shootout) but my car idled a lot while waiting for practice runs (no
battery in the portable for the TMO datalogger; now I have
PocketLOGGER) and it was over 90ºF out. Would an aluminum radiator
keep temps down in the 180's in a situation like that?

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 14:29:37 -0700
From: "nwlink" <vlsgto@nwlink.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch survey

Steve,

This is my second RPS Clutch and it is junk. The first one got blown to
shreds when I did only three runs at the track. This current RPS in my
car...I have not even launched with it and haven't even gone to the track
and it already feels mushy when hot and doesn't feel good at all. As a side
note, I don't ride my clutch and so, it is the clutch and not me. :)

No more RPS for me....Hau use to say the stock clutch was the best, I now
see why. I don't mind changing stock clutches every 6 months if I race
often...at least I can do a full dump of the clutch rather than slipping the
RPS.

My take.

Julian Huang
94 Mitsubishi Veilside Tein TEC GTO tt
Team 3S
Seattle, Washington
vlsgto@nwlink.com
"Caution: You are about to enter a NO SPIN ZONE!"

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Steve Cooper
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 11:42 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch survey

Hi

I missed the survey too. I had RPS turbo clutch, lasted only one year, cost
me a small fortune with our exchange rate. Absolute crap.I now have an OS
Giken. Heaps better.

Steve

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 17:28:47 -0400
From: MIHAI RAICU <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch survey

Hello all,

I recently (~2000 miles ago or ~1 month) installed an RPS
stage 3.  So far I have no complaints, except that the brake
in period is HELL!!!  It was very hard to start nicely
because of the chattering, I was stalling the engine left and
right because I wasn't giving it enough gas, etc... (I also
was not stopping at stop signs for the same reasons). 
Anyways, 2000 miles later, it feels very similar to my stock
clutch in terms of how smooth I can make engagements.  About
holding power, so far it has been great with the exception of
a few instances, which I still am not sure what exactly they
were.  On 2 or 3 ocassions, it seemed that it was starting to
slip, and therefore I stepped off the gas, so I don't know if
it was just my impression, or if it was real.  I was trying
to baby the clutch BIG TIME right after the brake in period. 
The truth is that after I found some courage to really be
aggressive with it (3500~4000 RPM) slipping launches, it is
working awesome.  I manage to chirp the tires just about
every time I do an aggressive launch.  I guess only time will
tell, but so far so good.

By the way, current relevant mods:
Boost controller (set @ .9 bar), K&N, Stillen downpipe, no
front pre cat and no main cat, Greddy Type-S BOV.


John Raicu
94 Yellow TT.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 14:33:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Radiator, custom ?

I don't think you need a thicker radiator. The advantage of the
aluminum (besides saving some weight) is that the tubes can be larger
(brass is too soft to do this). This increases the efficiency.
Griffin talks about this a little at their web page below.

http://griffinrad.com/whyaluminum.htm

And another little piece:

http://www.liquidcooledairpower.com/lc-radiatortech.shtml

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 3:13 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Radiator, custom ?

Jeff,
I have tried 5 different thermostats of various temperature ranges,
new hoses and a new radiator. Prior to the new radiator we back
flushed the cooling system 5 or 6 times. I don't know if you remember
but I am the one who has vapor locking during the Summer. I see Bozz
Speed has a $1,250 + but the guy I talk to says is only .25 inch
thicker than stock. GT Pro is developing one with better capacity but
it is probably going to have to wait until after their move, the CF
hood and the ECU replacement projects. Dynamic Racing hasn't returned
my call yet.

Jim

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 17:35:26 -0400
From: MIHAI RAICU <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: bad gas mileage

Hello,

Before I installed the downpipe and new RPS stage 3 clutch, I
tought I was getting something around 15~16 miles a gallon in
half/half city/highway driving.  For the last 3~4 gas tanks,
I have been getting about 11~13 miles a gallon with the same
style of driving.  Could the downpipe do this, or is it just
a coincidence.  Another factor which might have affected this
is switching from Michigan 94 octane gas to California 91
octane gas.  I changed the downpipe at about the same time,
so I don't remember what I was getting right when I got
here.  And the funny thing is I even lowered my boost to .9
instead of 1.0 bar for the reason of the lower octane.  One
more thing: when I upgraded my BOV (2 weeks ago), I found the
original BOV was really dirty of oil on the inside.  Any
ideas?

John Raicu
94 Yellow TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 15:23:02 -0700
From: Robert Koch <eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject: Team3S: GTO fonts

I lost the pics of the GTO fonts that was sent to me.....could the person that sent them resend them to:
Ek2mfg@foxinternet.com

I am dead in the water with this plate till I get it.

They will all be done by Sunday. Will have pics on my web site for your review by Sunday as well.

Enjoy the weekend I'm off to the shop.

Bob k.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 18:47:11 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Radiator, custom ?

Also, aluminum has the highest heat conductance of just about anything!
Not heat capacity, but conductance, so it will flow the heat away (TO AIR) BETTER.

Kurt

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 2:34 PM
To: Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Radiator, custom ?

I don't think you need a thicker radiator. The advantage of the
aluminum (besides saving some weight) is that the tubes can be larger
(brass is too soft to do this). This increases the efficiency.
Griffin talks about this a little at their web page below.

http://griffinrad.com/whyaluminum.htm

And another little piece:

http://www.liquidcooledairpower.com/lc-radiatortech.shtml

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 3:13 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Radiator, custom ?

Jeff,
I have tried 5 different thermostats of various temperature ranges,
new hoses and a new radiator. Prior to the new radiator we back
flushed the cooling system 5 or 6 times. I don't know if you remember
but I am the one who has vapor locking during the Summer. I see Bozz
Speed has a $1,250 + but the guy I talk to says is only .25 inch
thicker than stock. GT Pro is developing one with better capacity but
it is probably going to have to wait until after their move, the CF
hood and the ECU replacement projects. Dynamic Racing hasn't returned
my call yet.

Jim

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 18:39:32 -0700
From: "BlackLight" <BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Start a gathering or group road trip in the NW.

For those that are unaware, there is a NW group, called PNWS3, the
website is http://www.nws3.com/ . We have picts up from the Mt. St.
Helens meet this month. Pretty good turnout for us, 13 cars (would have
been 14 if I could have found the group >:(  ). There is also a Portland
lunch group that gets together every now and then for lunch. I have some
picts on my website (which needs to be finished) at
www.blacklight.5u.com . As for a huge annual meet, I would definitely
(thanks Bob :) love to see it!

Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Net
www.BlackLight.5u.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Robert Koch
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 1:17 PM
To: Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Start a gathering or group road trip in the NW.

NW club members,
Is anyone in the Northwest area that would want to get an annual
gathering
together for a road trip?
I can't get to Texas or the East Coast and Calif. Is still far away for
a
weekend run. I want to feel like I have friends.......:). Lets get
something going before the summer ends.
I am thinking about maybe a car show / cruise thing

Any input?

Bob K.
93 R/T
FIPK KV85's
Bradi cross drilled and slotted rotors
ADR Enigma 17's 245/45

The web site will be up and going by 9pm pacific time tonight.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 22:16:37 -0400
From: "Brian Collins" <bcturbo@hotmail.com>
Subject: Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch survey/friction

Jeff,

I agree with Jason on this one.  Friction force is definitely not
proportional to surface area.  From physics:

Friction Force = Normal Force X Coefficient of Friction

Surface area is not mentioned anywhere in this equation.  The reason that
larger tires grip better has to do with TRACTION which is a little different
than simple friction.  A quick google search produced a web page that helps
explain this somewhat complex issue:
http://www.cosm.sc.edu/~phys153/tirefriction.html

Thus, theoretically, the surface area of the clutch should not have much
affect on the friction force givin that the normal forces between the
surfaces is the same.

Brian Collins

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 01:29:41 -0400
From: "Geordon Portice" <geordon@voyager.net>
Subject: Team3S: All season tires TT/VR-4?

I have a '92 R/T TT which I drive year round in Michigan.
At 40,000mi I replaced the OEM Gaterbacks with
Pirelli P7000 Supersports. They looked cool, and performed
well, but have worn out very fast. I am currently nursing them
to almost 60,000mi on the odo while I figure out what to
replace them with. I plan on staying with stock 245/45R17 size.

Based on price, tests, and reviews at TireRack, it seems the
Dunlop SP Sport 5000 are the way to go for an all season
high performance tire, but I have not seen a single mention
of this tire on the this list or the archives.

Has anyone had any experience with this tires in winter
driving? How are they for summer versus the SP8000 and
SP9000, which gets a lot of mention?

I know Michelin has a nice all season performance tire in the
Pilot XGT Z4, and may be a little better in dry conditions, but
the cost differential is significant ($134 vs $195), and the
Dunlop supposedly has better ride and noise comfort and
road rating, though not quite as good in responsiveness.

Any feedback would be welcome.

Thanks,

Geordon
1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
Original owner
Stock, but expecing a K&N FIPK soon, and doing hard
research on a Boost Controller

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 01:15:16 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: OEM tires -  All season tires TT/VR-4?

Gatorbacks as the OEM tire.  I was under the impression all VR-4's, and
maybe SL's came with Yokohama tires from the factory.  I guess / assume
Dodge was a little different in tire choices from the factory.  Any
other info, like original tires on cars.  I am pretty sure the 18" VR-4
tire of choice were the Yokohama A-028 in 245/40-18 size.  Just a
curiousity I guess...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Geordon Portice
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 12:30 AM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: All season tires TT/VR-4?

I have a '92 R/T TT which I drive year round in Michigan.
At 40,000mi I replaced the OEM Gaterbacks with
Pirelli P7000 Supersports. They looked cool, and performed
well, but have worn out very fast. I am currently nursing them
to almost 60,000mi on the odo while I figure out what to
replace them with. I plan on staying with stock 245/45R17 size.

Based on price, tests, and reviews at TireRack, it seems the
Dunlop SP Sport 5000 are the way to go for an all season
high performance tire, but I have not seen a single mention
of this tire on the this list or the archives.

Has anyone had any experience with this tires in winter
driving? How are they for summer versus the SP8000 and
SP9000, which gets a lot of mention?

I know Michelin has a nice all season performance tire in the
Pilot XGT Z4, and may be a little better in dry conditions, but
the cost differential is significant ($134 vs $195), and the
Dunlop supposedly has better ride and noise comfort and
road rating, though not quite as good in responsiveness.

Any feedback would be welcome.

Thanks,

Geordon
1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
Original owner
Stock, but expecing a K&N FIPK soon, and doing hard
research on a Boost Controller

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 01:15:37 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: OEM tires -  All season tires TT/VR-4?

Gatorbacks as the OEM tire.  I was under the impression all VR-4's, and
maybe SL's came with Yokohama tires from the factory.  I guess / assume
Dodge was a little different in tire choices from the factory.  Any
other info, like original tires on cars.  I am pretty sure the 18" VR-4
tire of choice were the Yokohama A-028 in 245/40-18 size.  Just a
curiousity I guess...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Geordon Portice
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 12:30 AM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: All season tires TT/VR-4?

I have a '92 R/T TT which I drive year round in Michigan.
At 40,000mi I replaced the OEM Gaterbacks with
Pirelli P7000 Supersports. They looked cool, and performed
well, but have worn out very fast. I am currently nursing them
to almost 60,000mi on the odo while I figure out what to
replace them with. I plan on staying with stock 245/45R17 size.

Based on price, tests, and reviews at TireRack, it seems the
Dunlop SP Sport 5000 are the way to go for an all season
high performance tire, but I have not seen a single mention
of this tire on the this list or the archives.

Has anyone had any experience with this tires in winter
driving? How are they for summer versus the SP8000 and
SP9000, which gets a lot of mention?

I know Michelin has a nice all season performance tire in the
Pilot XGT Z4, and may be a little better in dry conditions, but
the cost differential is significant ($134 vs $195), and the
Dunlop supposedly has better ride and noise comfort and
road rating, though not quite as good in responsiveness.

Any feedback would be welcome.

Thanks,

Geordon
1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
Original owner
Stock, but expecing a K&N FIPK soon, and doing hard
research on a Boost Controller

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 04:13:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch survey/friction

Yep. I got it wrong, at least theoretically. :)

I'm sure surface area has something to do with it. Maybe it's the
heat aspect? I mean according to the theory, we could have a clutch
with only one square inch of surface area and get the same "friction"
as 100 square inches (normal force and coef. of friction being the
same).

So why are brake pads, clutches, and tire contact patches not the
size of quarters? :)

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- --- Brian Collins <bcturbo@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Jeff,
>
> I agree with Jason on this one.  Friction force is definitely not
> proportional to surface area.  From physics:
>
> Friction Force = Normal Force X Coefficient of Friction
>
> Surface area is not mentioned anywhere in this equation.  The
> reason that
> larger tires grip better has to do with TRACTION which is a little
> different
> than simple friction.  A quick google search produced a web page
> that helps
> explain this somewhat complex issue:
> http://www.cosm.sc.edu/~phys153/tirefriction.html
>
> Thus, theoretically, the surface area of the clutch should not have
> much
> affect on the friction force givin that the normal forces between
> the
> surfaces is the same.
>
> Brian Collins

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 06:00:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch survey/friction

Hmmm, replying to my own post - almost like talking to myself. :)

After a little more searching on the web (just takes the right combo
of words with google.com) I found the following page that supplies
the term I am looking for and the "force" that we need to be
concerned with as far as our clutches go.

Clutch torque, or more correctly, torque tramsmitted by the clutch.

http://www.tech.plym.ac.uk/sme/desnotes/desclut.htm

If engine torque exceeds clutch torque, the clutch "slips". If clutch
"torque" exceeds engine torque it "grabs". Clutch "torque" is a
function of the force exerted by the pressure plate, the coefficient
of friction of the two mated surfaces, and the surface area of all
mated surfaces (that is, both sides of the clutch) - just as I first
described but incorrectly called friction.

So I guess we are back to pucks vs full face. Pucks reduce the
surface area. So the pressure plate force or coefficient of friction
must increase to compensate, assuming you want equal or greater
torque transmitting ability compared to the stock clutch.

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- --- Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Yep. I got it wrong, at least theoretically. :)
>
> I'm sure surface area has something to do with it. Maybe it's the
> heat aspect? I mean according to the theory, we could have a clutch
> with only one square inch of surface area and get the same
> "friction"
> as 100 square inches (normal force and coef. of friction being the
> same).
>
> So why are brake pads, clutches, and tire contact patches not the
> size of quarters? :)
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 09:09:28 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: All season tires TT/VR-4?

Expect an Sp9000 to last about 30,000 miles give or take depending on how
you feel about driving on really low tread.  I used to drive my T/A on
BFGoodrich Comp T/As till they looked like slicks.  Will not do it with this
car cause its an all-season car.  I replaced mine at 25,000 miles cause I
bought a new set of chrome rims/tires with better tread.  I replaced these
with Sp9000 again, and I put almost 27,000 on those when I hit a curb last
winter and bought a new set of RPO1 rims (on sale by the way at $200
each -tire rack) and Nitto 555 Extreme tires which are wearing much more
slowly then the SP9000, but are lousy in the snow and rain.  Car hydroplanes
at speeds at or above 75mph.  I used to drive the car at 80+ with the
SP9000s.

Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geordon Portice <geordon@voyager.net>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Friday, August 31, 2001 5:32 AM
Subject: Team3S: All season tires TT/VR-4?

>I have a '92 R/T TT which I drive year round in Michigan.
>At 40,000mi I replaced the OEM Gaterbacks with
>Pirelli P7000 Supersports. They looked cool, and performed
>well, but have worn out very fast. I am currently nursing them
>to almost 60,000mi on the odo while I figure out what to
>replace them with. I plan on staying with stock 245/45R17 size.
>
>Based on price, tests, and reviews at TireRack, it seems the
>Dunlop SP Sport 5000 are the way to go for an all season
>high performance tire, but I have not seen a single mention
>of this tire on the this list or the archives.
>
>Has anyone had any experience with this tires in winter
>driving? How are they for summer versus the SP8000 and
>SP9000, which gets a lot of mention?
>
>I know Michelin has a nice all season performance tire in the
>Pilot XGT Z4, and may be a little better in dry conditions, but
>the cost differential is significant ($134 vs $195), and the
>Dunlop supposedly has better ride and noise comfort and
>road rating, though not quite as good in responsiveness.
>
>Any feedback would be welcome.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Geordon
>1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
>Original owner
>Stock, but expecing a K&N FIPK soon, and doing hard
>research on a Boost Controller

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 09:30:01 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: OEM tires -  All season tires TT/VR-4?

All-season tires, IMHO, are not recommended for our cars.  Get yourself a
good set of summer tires and a good set of winter tires.  My Pirelli P-Zero
tires are currently on their 32,000th mile and are just starting to lose
their traction in hard turns.

I don't stick with the OEM tires since those are always all-season and are
not the best performance tire for the car but when nothing else works they
do well all year in most conditions but cars are not shipped with different
OEM tires to Michigan than they are to Florida.

I will also get a set of Blizzak tires this winter which are hands-down the
best snow tire (there are better for ice I believe but I don't get that
here).  One small hill of snow on the Pirelli summer tires showed me how
much they suck on slick services and I will definitely get winter tires this
year.

For as little as tires cost I would rather be sure-footed out there than the
one who is sliding into everyone else.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
Pittsburgh, PA

- -----Original Message-----
From: cody
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 2:15 AM

Gatorbacks as the OEM tire.  I was under the impression all VR-4's, and
maybe SL's came with Yokohama tires from the factory.  I guess / assume
Dodge was a little different in tire choices from the factory.  Any
other info, like original tires on cars.  I am pretty sure the 18" VR-4
tire of choice were the Yokohama A-028 in 245/40-18 size.  Just a
curiousity I guess...

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 09:34:59 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: All season tires TT/VR-4?

Again, anyone who drives 75+ in the rain or snow deserves to be shot.  I
don't care how good the traction is.  Just slowing down to 55 mph from 65
mph will cost you 10 mph so if you drive for an entire hour at that speed
you will be 10 miles farther from your goal.

How many times to rainstorms last an hour when driving?  Usually never.
They are 10-30 minutes at most (yes there are times when it is 4 hours but
not on average).  Slow down, save a life, and worry about car control
instead of being the fastest car on the road.

Empty semi-trucks might go faster but they have 18 tires and we have 4.
They are 18,000 pounds and we are 4,000.  That is 1,000 pounds per tire
average.  Since their tire patch is larger they have more traction.  Don't
think you can keep up with other cars since you don't know what they have
under their corners.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
(am I related to Ralph Nader?)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Sam Shelat
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 5:09 AM

and Nitto 555 Extreme tires which are wearing much more
slowly then the SP9000, but are lousy in the snow and rain.  Car hydroplanes
at speeds at or above 75mph.  I used to drive the car at 80+ with the
SP9000s.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 07:08:30 -0700
From: "Darc" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: OEM tires -  All season tires TT/VR-4?

Goodyear Eagles ZR45's were the OEM's for  Western Canada in the 92  Stealth
TT production year. I suspect  OEM's were different in different production
years and possibly different for different geographical areas.

Darc

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
To: "Team3S" <team3s@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 11:15 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: OEM tires - All season tires TT/VR-4?

> Gatorbacks as the OEM tire.  I was under the impression all VR-4's, and
> maybe SL's came with Yokohama tires from the factory.  I guess / assume
> Dodge was a little different in tire choices from the factory.  Any
> other info, like original tires on cars.  I am pretty sure the 18" VR-4
> tire of choice were the Yokohama A-028 in 245/40-18 size.  Just a
> curiousity I guess...
>
> -Cody

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 16:22:59 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: OEM tires -  All season tires TT/VR-4?

We got the Dunlop SP8080 (225/50-17) here in Switzerland and Michelins in
Germany (in the last years SP8000). They are Summer-tires while cars sold
in winter got Dunlop Winter-tires. Mitsu did not approve All-Seasons for
the 3k in Europe !

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

At 07:08 31.08.2001 -0700, Darc wrote:
>Goodyear Eagles ZR45's were the OEM's for  Western Canada in the 92  Stealth
>TT production year. I suspect  OEM's were different in different production
>years and possibly different for different geographical areas.
>
>Darc
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
>To: "Team3S" <team3s@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
>Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 11:15 PM
>Subject: RE: Team3S: OEM tires - All season tires TT/VR-4?
>
> > Gatorbacks as the OEM tire.  I was under the impression all VR-4's, and
> > maybe SL's came with Yokohama tires from the factory.  I guess / assume
> > Dodge was a little different in tire choices from the factory.  Any
> > other info, like original tires on cars.  I am pretty sure the 18" VR-4
> > tire of choice were the Yokohama A-028 in 245/40-18 size.  Just a
> > curiousity I guess...
> >
> > -Cody

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 09:27:19 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: OEM tires -  All season tires TT/VR-4?

At 09:30 AM 8/31/01 -0400, Darren Schilberg wrote:
>All-season tires, IMHO, are not recommended for our cars.  Get yourself a
>good set of summer tires and a good set of winter tires. 

Better you should garage the TT/VR4 for the winter and buy a winter rat.
That way, you can protect it from the ravages of winter plus put it up on
jackstands to install mods.

I recommend an Eagle Talon AWD as the perfect winter car -- it's like the
"little brother" to the TT, cuz everything is very familiar, similar,
almost the same, and works the same way. (not only am I redundant, I say
the same thing in two or more ways, and I repeat myself. But I digress).

Love my Talon. Someday I hope to turn it into a pro rally car or even a
track car. At 3000 lb or so, it has a lot of potential.

Rich
94 VR4
92 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 12:58:51 -0400
From: "Willard R. Semple" <beowulf@del.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help Needed (Fuel and Ignition)

Thanks for the help that I've received so far, but I believe that
problem goes deeper than that. The fuel pump is fine. It works when
bypassed. Maybe it would help if I would list the mods.
K&N FIPK
AAM aluminum Y-Pipe
APEXi AVC-r Boost Controller
Borla cat back exhaust
AAM SS Down pipe
Greddy BOV
Goodridge SS brake lines
RPS turbo clutch
Autometer boost gauge
HKS H/V fuel pump
R&S Kustumz front race motor mount
R&s Kustumz short shifter
gutted pre cats

Hope this will help others to further aid me in diagnosing this problem.
Thanks again,
Will, and his ailing Stealth

Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> I had very similar problems.  My engine would not start, or it would start
> and run for 30 seconds after sitting in the hot sun.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 13:51:07 -0400
From: "Payne, Scott" <SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: Team3S: Boost Controller

I'm finally ready to buy a boost controller for my 94 stealth r/t twin
turbo. I need one that a novice like me can install. I am seriously
considering the Blitz DSBC. Who sells these things the cheapest? Which one
is the easiest to install and use? Should I get the BOV with it? I've seen a
lot of emails about BOV's that do NOT fit our cars properly. Who sells a
perfect fit?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 13:54:18 -0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost Controller

I have the TurboXS BOV and it is a direct fit, price is around $175.
http://www.turboxs.com  For a BC I would suggest a manual boost controller
like TurboXS offers or make one yourself.  I did my own for $8 and it only
overboosts a little bit (1-2psi) in 1st gear and holds boost very well in
all other gears.  In theory it should spool up quicker than an EBC and is
safer than a bleeder type valve.

Take care,

Kevin Schappell
http://kevin.schappell.com
Save money on all of your speed parts.
http://www.SpeedShoppers.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Payne, Scott
> Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 1:51 PM
> To: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: Boost Controller
>
>
> I'm finally ready to buy a boost controller for my 94 stealth r/t twin
> turbo. I need one that a novice like me can install. I am seriously
> considering the Blitz DSBC. Who sells these things the cheapest? Which one
> is the easiest to install and use? Should I get the BOV with it?
> I've seen a
> lot of emails about BOV's that do NOT fit our cars properly. Who sells a
> perfect fit?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 13:16:30 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Controller

I recently tried to find one, and was told they are out of production.
Rich
At 01:51 PM 8/31/01 -0400, Payne, Scott wrote:
>I'm finally ready to buy a boost controller for my 94 stealth r/t twin
>turbo. I need one that a novice like me can install. I am seriously
>considering the Blitz DSBC. Who sells these things the cheapest? Which one
>is the easiest to install and use? Should I get the BOV with it? I've seen a
>lot of emails about BOV's that do NOT fit our cars properly. Who sells a
>perfect fit?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 14:21:58 -0400
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Hesitation...again

My car is still experiencing hesitation between 2-3,000 rpm.  I have looked
through quite a few of the archived posts and most of the hesitation
problems were diagnosed as TPS sensor failure.  I finally got around to
checking my TPS sensor and it was in spec.

The hesitation is most evident when the motor is still warming up, so I
think that rules out fuel problems (doesn't it run full rich during warm
up?).  It only happens when I am lightly accelerating, so it probably isn't
clutch related.  I just replaced my plugs and wires 6,000 miles ago, most
likely not the problem.  The problem started about four weeks ago and I had
not done anything to the car around that time.

What else can I check, O2 sensors?  I am running an FIPK and test pipe, the
boost has never been raised and these are the only modifications that the
car has ever had.

Thanks,
Michael D. Crose

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 11:32:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: AmkreadGTO <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hesitation...again

A fellow 3S'er is also experiencing the exact same
problem.. low RPM hessitation during warm ups.. i also
suggested might be o2 going bad.. but i dont know what
im talking about most of the time.. =)

he has intake, exhaust, and BC..

please keep all ur inputs/suggestions public.. Thanks!

/George
- --- "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com> wrote:
> My car is still experiencing hesitation between
> 2-3,000 rpm.  I have looked
> through quite a few of the archived posts and most
> of the hesitation
> problems were diagnosed as TPS sensor failure.  I
> finally got around to
> checking my TPS sensor and it was in spec.
>
> The hesitation is most evident when the motor is
> still warming up, so I
> think that rules out fuel problems (doesn't it run
> full rich during warm
> up?).  It only happens when I am lightly
> accelerating, so it probably isn't
> clutch related.  I just replaced my plugs and wires
> 6,000 miles ago, most
> likely not the problem.  The problem started about
> four weeks ago and I had
> not done anything to the car around that time.
>
> What else can I check, O2 sensors?  I am running an
> FIPK and test pipe, the
> boost has never been raised and these are the only
> modifications that the
> car has ever had.
>
> Thanks,
> Michael D. Crose

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 13:39:14 -0500
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Controller

The Blitz DSBC?  That doesn't sound right.  They just came out with the
silver one this year.  I'm sure you can still find them even if they did go
out of production because it must have just happened.
Christopher

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: "Payne, Scott" <SPayne@hunton.com>; "Team3S (E-mail)"
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 1:16 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Controller

> I recently tried to find one, and was told they are out of production.
> Rich
> At 01:51 PM 8/31/01 -0400, Payne, Scott wrote:
> >I'm finally ready to buy a boost controller for my 94 stealth r/t twin
> >turbo. I need one that a novice like me can install. I am seriously
> >considering the Blitz DSBC. Who sells these things the cheapest? Which
one
> >is the easiest to install and use? Should I get the BOV with it? I've
seen a
> >lot of emails about BOV's that do NOT fit our cars properly. Who sells a
> >perfect fit?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 23:32:37 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Controller

Blitz has the DSBC in Black, Silver and the new SBC-iD in production.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

- -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: "Christopher Deutsch" <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
An: "Team3S (E-mail)" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Gesendet: Freitag, 31. August 2001 20:39
Betreff: Re: Team3S: Boost Controller


> The Blitz DSBC?  That doesn't sound right.  They just came out with the
> silver one this year.  I'm sure you can still find them even if they did
go
> out of production because it must have just happened.
> Christopher

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #595
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